KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 8

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Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready? 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Bubble-Gum-Pop-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square 

This weeks CAL square is inspired by the Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy!  So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter has been loving dancing round to it!  

With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL.  As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Four colours used for this block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART8

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part8

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT07

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT09

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 4th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 2

Group-Banner

Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 2 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part2-HEBREW

Part 2: Hot-butter Popcorn Panel 

This weeks part is inspired by the extremely fun 1970’s song Popcorn by Hotbutter – you can have fun listening to it whilst you hook!  I love how a Popcorn stitch looks and how much texture Popcorn’s can add to a crochet project so I knew I wanted to add some into the pattern somewhere.  Almost by accident I discovered that a backwards (wrong side facing) Popcorn can actually look, in some respects, nicer than a forwards (right side facing) one – so I decided to throw that into the works as well! As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  62.5 yds (25 g / 75 m) Total panel 125 yds ( 50 g / 150 m)
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C but you could make the panel in a single colour if you don’t fancy adding the colour changes; just ignore the bits where I say cc to a different yarn.
  • Note 2: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern. When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured  yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate  long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,  * 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC * repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART2

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 2 directly to part 1 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details), or wait until you have completed parts 3, 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part2

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

DSC07272

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

PP-01

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-02

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,

PP-03

* 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st,

PP-04

1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC

PP-05

* repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

PP-06

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-07

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

PP-08

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-09

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-11

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-12

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

PP-13

And that’s it! Part 2 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 3 to be released on 10th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 1

Group-Banner

Yay let’s get started with Part 1 of the CAL shall we!!!! I’m so excited that so many of you have decided to join in the CAL with me this year!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part1-HEBREW

Part 1: Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square 

To me there is nothing more elegant than the traditional granny square – it’s iconic for a reason! It’s probably the first thing I was taught how to make and I still love how it looks.  The granny square was also huge in the 1960’s-1970’s and as much of my groovyghan design is inspired by that period I knew I had to include the granny square in our blanket. I completely didn’t invent this pattern but this is my twist on the timeless classic.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn left over from other projects and the basic granny square motif does not require advanced skills to execute – a perfect starting point to ease us in gently to our groovyghan!  

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern and a photo tutorial of how I have worked this pattern (see below).

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • 3tr/dc = 1 Cluster
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
  • Note 1: I used the same colour for rnd 3 on all of my granny squares to help with overall coordination – but worked different inners / outers to keep it groovy!
  • Note 2: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that I don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN C and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

KCACOUK CAL 2016 - Part 1

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 1 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 1 (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Joining

Photo Tutorial:

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

1. Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring

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2. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)

02-TUT

3. 2 tr/dc into the ring,

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 4. ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring,

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5. ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,

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6. then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

7. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

08-TUT

8. * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made),

09-TUT

9. repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

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10. Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,

11-TUT

11.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

12-TUT

12. Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

13-TUT

13. * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,

14-TUT

14.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

15-TUT

15. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

16-TUT

And that’s it! Part 1 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 2 to be released on 27th January 2016.

KCACO-UK 2016 | Everything is Cool and Groovyghan | Starts Jan 13 2016

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Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-introduction-HEBREW

Following a poll I conducted on Facebook, about doing a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) for 2016, and if I did what we should do the CAL on, the resounding answer was for a ‘Groovyghan’.  This is rather cool because I’ve always wanted to have a go at making one…and now I get to design one!

The ‘Everything is Cool and Groovyghan CAL’ will start on 13 January 2016. The tutorials for each part will be released every two weeks on a Wednesday on my blog where they will remain available forever.

This is a mystery crochet-along for a rectangular mixed motif blanket where either blocks or rows will be introduced every two weeks. Lots of different shapes and stitches will be incorporated so it won’t get boring and there will be plenty of opportunity to play with colour!

As well as posting information on this blog I’ll also be linking the information in my KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group, which if it’s anything like last year, is a great source for support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-Alongers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1512395979046485/

So on to the fine details of the CAL…this is a bit of a long post so bear with me!

DETAILS OF THE CAL:

  1. There is no charge to join the CAL; anyone can join in as long as they have some yarn and a hook.
  2. All featured pattern elements in the CAL will be FREE of charge patterns if released separately from the CAL.
  3. For those that like a deadline I will be adding new details about each square every two weeks on a Wednesday at 7 pm-ish (GMT time) – see below for full schedule. For those that want to hook when they have the time then that’s fine too; no pressure to this CAL it’s all about having fun!
  4. For this blanket I will be using double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 and a 4mm (US size G); though you could use worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook (US size H) for a larger blanket if you wish to.
  5. I will be using both UK and US crochet terminology in the pattern (UK/US) so you can pick your preference. I will also always link a conversion chart and any helpful information about each element including links about special stitches with the release of each new section.

YARN:

I’ve designed this CAL to be a stash-buster to use up bits of yarn you might have lying around (in my case lots) or you can buy new.  I estimate that you will need at least:

  • 12 skeins of  Double Knit (1200g / 3600m / 3936 yards)   OR
  • 14 skeins of Aran / Worsted (1400g / 2744m / 2996 yards)

Please note that these amounts are approximated – actual finished blankets may vary depending on yarn and hook used and own personal tension when crocheting.  I would always round up a bit as some stitches take more yarn that others.  

As for colours; well this giant bag of multi-toned blues from my stash is going to be the colours I use this time.

Yarn

I would suggest, if you do buy new, that at a minimum of at least 3 colours would look best. I’m of the opinion this time that the more colours the merrier this time round – it is a groovyghan after all!  If you are looking for inspiration for colours to use why not have a look at the Design Seeds website – though be prepared to loose a good chunk of your time ogling all the lovely colour schemes!

THE SCHEDULE:

  1. January 13th – Part 1
  2. January 27th – Part 2
  3. February 10th – Part 3
  4. February 24th – Part 4
  5. March 9th – Part 5
  6. March 23rd – Part 6
  7. April 6th – Part 7
  8. April 20th – Part 8
  9. May 4th – Part 9
  10. May 18th – Part 10
  11. June 1st – Part 11
  12. June 15th – Part 12
  13. June 29th – Part 13
  14. July 13th – Part 14
  15. July 27th – Part 15
  16. August 10th – Part 16
  17. August 24th – Part 17 / Border
  18. September 7th – BIG REVEAL

GROOVYGHAN SCHEMATIC:

As the groovyghan is made up from several different components I’ve drawn up this schematic for you to help with visualisation / joining together of each part.  

Groovyghan-Numbered

I am so looking forward to see everyone’s groovy blankets develop over time! Stay tuned for part 1 released on January 13th.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 – Block 24

This is it folks! The very last block in the CAL! Sometimes it really doesn’t seem so long ago since we started does it – but here we are ready to hook up our remaining square.

However, we are not quite finished yet! After today we still have the joining and the border to do which I have actually realised I haven’t provided you all with a huge amount of time for.  So to allow catching up time and actually doing the joining and borders I’m changing the the end dates slightly…make sure you check out important next steps at the bottom of this post too!

  • Joining squares together details will now be released on: 2nd December 
  • Border details will be released: 9th December
  • Grand reveal of our blankets: 16th December

How does that sound to everyone? Better? And don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule  here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x

Okay lets get onto the last block…

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and has been since September 2015.

Mountain Majesties by Funny dieBarbarin

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 3 different colours
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/

Specialist stitches:

  • Air dc: Holding tail of yarn with finger on hook YO twice. Insert hook into starting space/stitch, YO, and draw through space/stitch. YO and draw through two loops, YO and draw through two loops. After working next stitch tail may be let go of.
  • Air sc: With yarn on hook (using slip knot if needed), work an sc into designated stitch.
  • Beginning dc: Any of the following, as preferred. (sl st, ch3), standing dc, or air dc.
  • Beginning sc: Any of the following, as preferred. (sl st, ch1, sc), air sc, standing sc.
  • FPDTR: YO three times, insert hook from front of work across back of designated stitch and return to front of work then YO, [YO and draw through two loops]four times. 
  • Standing dc: Raise loop to same height as a dc stitch. Twist loop in a clockwise motion. Place finger on top of loop to help hold in place and insert hook behind both strands of loop. YO and bring around. YO and draw through two loops, YO and draw through last two loops.
  • Standing sc: Without using a ch1 for height, work a sc as normal.
  • FPTR: YO two times, insert hook from front of work across back of designated stitch and return to front of work then YO, [YO and draw through two loops]three times.
  • FPTTR: YO four times, insert hook from front of work across back of designated stitch and return to front of work then YO, [YO and draw through two loops]five times.
  • V-stitch: Work (dc, ch2, dc) into same stitch YO: yarn over

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here).  This was a really fun square to finish off on, I really love how the border is done, I think it looks so effective! I didn’t add the last row of tr/dc changing it instead to dc/sc to make it up to the 12 inches; you may wish to measure as you go for the last few rounds to check you meet your size.  It’s unfortunate with these dark UK winter days that I couldn’t get enough light to get, what I would class, as a proper photo as it really is a gorgeous block!

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Getting Ready for Joining!

So to get ready to join all your blocks together I would suggest that you:

  1. Either check the end pattern count or count manually the stitches for the last row on all your blocks and write it down on a piece of paper.
  2. Then you will need to decide how many stitches you want each block to have – use a ch 2 in each corner for ease of joining.
  3. Then add either 1 rnd of dc /sc  (or alternative stitches like htr/hdc or tr/dc to add height if required) to either add or decrease stitches to your required amount.
  4. Then have a bit of fun trying to work out how you want the layout of your blanket to be by swapping all your squares about until you are pleased with how it looks.  Write down your plan on a bit of paper and save it for 2nd December.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 – Block 23

Can you believe that this is the second to last block?!? I really doesn’t seem that long ago when we started block 1!  So without further ado lets get onto our next block…

Though if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule  here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and has been since November 2013.

Frostbloom 12″ Afghan Square by Shan Sevcik

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4 different colours
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/

Specialist stitches:

  • Back loop only (BLO):Work new stitch in back loop of indicated stitch only.
  • V Stitch (V st):Work (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch. If you chain tightly or the round bows up, please feel free to chain 2.
  • Extended dc (edc): yo, insert hook in st, yo and pull through (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (still 3 loops on hook), yo, pull through two loops (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through remaining 2 loops.

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here).   I just love, love, love the ruffle on this one and thought it would fit in nicely with some of the other 3-D squares that we have made. 

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the LAST block to be released on  25th (or 26th) November.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 22

So it’s time for block 22  and it’s a brand NEW design from me!  Born out of my own desire to learn how to do Bavarian crochet our next block ticks that off my to do list and brings, what I hope you will agree, a fun addition to the CAL.

I’m not going to lie, Bavarian crochet is a little tricky to master at first but once you get into the swing of it you should be fine!  I have added photos of the first 6 rnds in the pattern as extra guidance but should you find it just not to your taste a list of alternative blocks you could use can be found here. If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and will be forever.

Bavarian Beauty by Heather C Gibbs

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Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours
  • Pattern uses UK and American crochet terms.

Specialist stitches:

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble 4 together / US Treble 4 together (dtr4tog/tr4tog): * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch (4 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook (3 loops left), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on the hook (2 loops left) * repeat * to * 3 times, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
  • UK 4 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 4 Back Post US Treble Decrease (4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec): When working back post sts you insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around). * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook around post of indicated st, yarn over hook, drawn yarn through stitch, (yarn over hook, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook) twice * repeat * to * 3 times around the next 3 st posts, yarn over hook, draw yarn through 5 loops on hook.
  • UK 8 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 8 Back Post US Treble Decrease (8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec): Working the same as the 4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec but continuing to * hold the last loop of each stitch on hook, bptr/bptr around each of next 4 stitches *, skip sl st between sts and then on next group of dtr/tr’s, repeat * to * once, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook. 

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here).  I did enjoy doing the Bavarian crochet though it can be a bit fiddly if you use a covered hook with the 8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec’s.  It was also fun to work out the colour placement and I know that you guys are going to come up with some amazing combinations – can’t wait to see!

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on 11th or 12th November.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 21

Throughout this CAL I have been trying to look for blocks that are all a little different so our resulting Afghan will be a multitude of creativity and fun!  That’s why I love this next block; stripes, ruffles, texture, segments…there really is something for everyone! 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and has been since Feburary 2015.

 Fan Club by Polly Plum

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/

Specialist stitches:

  • Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
  • Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, wrap yarn around hook and hold in place with thumb or fi nger and insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw through all three loops on hook
  • Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, wrap yarn around hook and hold in place with thumb or finger and insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice
  • fpsc/fptr – like normal sc,or tr, but instead of inserting hook at the top of indicated stitch, insert it from front to back around the post of stitch

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my, as yet unblocked, version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here). It’s annoying that my camera sometimes seems to insist that the purple yarn I’m using is blue!

I was super excited to see how this unique block would look in my colours and I really love how it’s turned out.  I did have to add a row of htr/hdc to mine as I crocheted quite tightly but it was a perfect 12 inches once I’d added those.

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on 28th or 29th October.

KCACO-UK CAL 2015 – Block 19

I just love the ingenuity of our next block and think you will too! Picots stitches are usually seen as a decorative edging on a crochet piece but our next designer has cleverly incorporated them into her design.  It’s a really interesting pattern to work up too as you are pretty much doing something different on each round.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue hereThis square is currently free on Ravelry and has been since May 2015.

If this is the first you are hearing about the CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Sorrel by Sadie Cummings

Notes:

  • Hook: 5 mm (US Size H)
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: I would suggest at least four or five different colours
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms see conversion chart here

Specialist Stitches:

Picot stitch: ch 3 or ch 4, slip stitch in either the 3rd or 4th ch (depending on which type of picot) – picot done.

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here). This block is simply scrumptious with it’s perfectly positioned picots! I didn’t change colour every round and I also stopped at rnd 17 (which for me was htr/hdc) as I was spot on 12 inches.  

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on the 30th September or 1st October.

Butterfly Garden Afghan – Ta dah moment!

So I did promise to show you a photo of the afghan I made for my Great Aunts 90th birthday didn’t I.  I had decided to make her a lapghan made up from 12 inch squares as I have never made a blanket with squares that big before (the CAL doesn’t count as it’s not finished yet!).

I knew I wanted a pattern with a fairly repetitive rhythm that I could work on in an evening whilst watching TV but something that wasn’t compromised on the prettiness. I have loads of crochet books so I had a look on my shelf and picked a block from The Granny Square Book by Margaret Hubert called ‘Butterfly Garden’.  My husband brought me this book a couple of Christmas’s ago and I have made a few of the blocks in it for different things, its a great book.  

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I picked five colours to make my blanket and for the yarn I decided on Stylecraft Special Aran which is a 100% acrylic yarn in 100g balls.  The colours I chose are Cream, Camel, Gold, Copper and Dark Brown and  I must confess I adapted the pattern slightly to suit myself just because I wanted to get in my colour repeats!   

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I love Stylecraft yarn, it’s definitely one of my go to yarns. The Aran in particular is chunky, smooth  and squidgy.  Its lovely to work with as it comes in a wide range of colours, it’s not too expensive when making a large blanket in multiple colours and it doesn’t split when you are working with it. I used about 10 or so balls in total to make my 3 x 4 square blanket only because of the multiple colours and I used some colours more than others (a lot more brown for joining and the edging).

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The blanket seemed so much bigger in real life than I’d imagined it would be and it certainly kept me nice and cosy in an evening as I was hooking it up – I quite missed it when it was gone. 

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I joined my squares using the flat braid join and the edging was from another book from my shelf called Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman (another fab Christmas gift from my husband from a different year – he knows what I like bless him!).

And so this is my final tah dah moment! The British weather was so obliging when I did my photo shoot providing me with a brilliant blue sky which made the blanket colours really pop.  

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And my Aunt was thrilled with the blanket which is all I could have asked for!