I love making amigurumi’s! I can’t resist crocheted critters or other cute characters and neither can my daughter! And I certainly don’t mind making them for her as she loves her crocheted toys that Mummy made better than some of her shop bought ones. So when she started a make believe game the other day with some ‘teeny tiny’ puppies I decided to make her one.
The perfect size for little hands or a cute little ami for grown ups you can now make a teeny tiny dachshund of your very own! You can download the pattern from Ravelry or Craftsy to save for later or continue down to the pattern below.
AND if you help circulate my FREE Teeny Tiny Daschund Amigurumi pattern you’ll get a chance to win a free pattern from me! Here’s how:
- Add this pattern to your “favourites” on Ravelry (just click the “add to favourites” heart button on the top right hand side of this listing)
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- Comment on this blog post to let me know you’ve done 1 & 2 above, and I’ll pick a random winner to get 1 free pattern of choice on 26 July! Thank you!
Yarn:
- (8ply / yarn weight #3 or #4)
- 5g of double knit yarn
- Black thread
Hook:
3.5 mm or 4mm hook (US size E or G)
You will also need:
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
- 2 x 6 mm black safety eyes (optional)
- Small amount of toy filling
- Small piece of felt (optional)
Gauge:
4 dc/sc = 1 inch / 2.5 cm
These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.
Abbreviations:
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- ch(s) = chain
- dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
- inv.dc2tog/sc2tog = Invisible UK double crochet 2 sts together / Invisible US single crochet 2 sts together
Pattern:
Working without joining: Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of round.
Body:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).
Rnd 2: 1 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in same st then 2 dc/sc in each st around until you reach the st mrkr (12 sts).
Rnd 3: 1 dc/sc in next st, * 2 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in next * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18 sts).
Rnds 4 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around (18 sts).
Rnd 7: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (12 sts).
Rnds 8 – 12: 1 dc/sc in each st around (12 sts).
- Lightly stuff the body
Rnd 13: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (6 sts).
Rnd 14: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (3 sts).
Rnd 15: With the tail end and using your yarn needle sew the last 3 stitches together, finish off and weave in ends.
Head:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).
Rnd 2: 1 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in same st then 2 dc/sc in each st around until you reach the st mrkr (12 sts).
Rnd 3: 1 dc/sc in next st, * 2 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18 sts).
Rnds 4 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around (18 sts).
- Add safety eyes between rows 3-4 or work two french knots with black yarn/thread.
Rnd 7: *1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (12 sts).
- Lightly stuff the head.
Rnd 8: *1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (6 sts).
Muzzle:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).
Rnds 2 – 3: 1 dc/sc in each st around, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (6 sts).
- With black thread sew a nose onto the end of the muzzle, add a small black line under the nose to represent a mouth
- Stuff muzzle lightly and then sew muzzle onto the head
Ears (Make 2):
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 5 dc/sc in beginning ch (5 sts).
Rnds 2 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (5 sts).
- Sew ears to each side of the head; you can tack the bottom of the ears to the neck if you wish them to lie flat.
- With the tail end of your head sew the head to the larger end of your body.
Back Legs (Make 2):
- The legs are worked in rows rather than in the round.
Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4 st, turn (5)
Row 2: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)
- Fold the leg in half and sew evenly together taking care not to sew to tightly or the legs will curl.
- Sew your legs evenly onto the back end of the body of your dog for balance and so it appears he is sitting down.
Front Legs (Make 2):
- The legs are worked in rows rather than in the round.
Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 5 st, turn (5)
Row 2-3: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)
- Roll the leg up so it’s all together then sew together to form a tube.
- Sew your legs onto the front end of the body of your dog for balance and so it appears he is sitting down.
Tail:
- The tail is worked in rows rather than in the round.
Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4 st, turn (5)
Row 2: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)
- Fold the tail in half and sew evenly together and more tightly than the legs to create that curved tail
- Sew the tail onto the back end of your dogs body.
Optional:
Using a small piece of felt cut a small strip for a collar and sew onto the neck of your daschund.
