Free Crochet Pattern | Baby Shark Chunky Amigurumi


So has the title of today’s free amigurumi made you want to break out into song?

Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo! Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo!

Sorry about that! It kind of had to be done! You can thank my toddler for today’s earworm!  If you have no idea what I’m talking about and the phenomena that is the Pingfong Baby Shark Song has passed you by – lucky you! The baby shark song is now reportedly listed as one of the Top 40 most-viewed videos songs ever on YouTube – and my two year old LOVES it!

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_01

You may remember me saying that every year I try to crochet my girls a little something for Christmas; I made my (now eight) year old a giant narwhal (get the free pattern here) and so keeping with the oceanic theme it seemed only appropriate that I make Little Miss a baby shark.

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_03

I actually made the whole shark out of what was left of the one ball of Marriners plain Super Chunky (in Silver) that I used for the narwhals tusk – so if you bought the yarn for the giant narwhal then you should have enough left over to make this ami too. 

Designed with embroidered features this ami is perfect for little ones under 36 months – for older children or adults you could use safety eyes instead.

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_02

The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Baby Shark Chunky Amigurumi

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Materials:

Yarn:

  • 1 x 100g / 80m of Yarn B

Marriner Super Chunky (Silver – Yarn B)  used in photos.

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 6.5mm (US size K)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • Black yarn 

Gauge: 7dc/sc = 8cm (3.1 inches)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but yarn amounts and finished size of projecy may differ if your gauge is different from mine.

Finished Size: 25cm (9.8 inches) from nose to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch                            
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US single crochet 2 together

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog):
  • Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Many parts of the narwhal are worked without joining in continuous rnds – place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Body:

Worked from tail to nose;

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next seven sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).

Rnd 9: * 1dc/sc in next eight sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 10-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next eight sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).

Rnd 16: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next seven sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 18: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc in the next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).

Rnd 20: * 1dc/sc in the next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in the next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).

Rnd 22: * 1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 23: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

  • Stuff the body
  • Then pressing rnd 23 sides closed sew together.

Side Fins (Make 2):

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 5dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (5sts).

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 3: 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st, 1dc/sc in the remaining two sts (6sts).

Rnd 4: 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (8sts).

Rnd 5: 2dc/sc in the next four sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (12sts).

Rnd 6: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd,  fasten off but leave a long yarn tail

Top Fin:

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 4dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (4sts).

Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail (12sts).

Tail:

Rnd 1: Ch13; 1dc/sc in the second ch from the hook then 1dc/sc in each st until end, then working down the other side of the starting ch, 1dc/sc in each st. 24sts

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd,  fasten off but leave a long yarn tail

  • Then pressing rnd 2 sides closed sew together.

Making up:

  • With black thread embroider eyes on between rnds 18-19 approx 5sts apart
  • With black thread embroider three gills on rnds 13-15 on each side of the body
  • Attach the side fins (with the curve pointing backwards) on each side of the shark over rnds 10-16 approx 7sts apart
  • Attach top fin on top of shark over rnds 15-9
  • Attach the centre of the tail piece vertically onto rnd 1 of the body.

And that’s it!

If you hook up my Baby Shark amigurumi please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see it!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACOUK CAL 2018 | Stitch Story CAL Inspiration


Our stitch story crochet along journey is at an end! But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.

Now it’s time to fold up my blanket because I’m going to share some of the amazing finished Stitch Story Crochet blankets made by YOU!

folded-blanket-sscal18

But first I need to share Esther’s, from It’s All in A Nutshell, finished blanket! I know many of you really enjoyed Esther’s accompanying videos to the CAL and the link to her tutorials on her blog here (I’ve also added the link on the main CAL page). It’s so pretty in that colourway isn’t it (Scheepjes Riverwashed Shade Wheaton)! 

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I love that people have chosen to make blankets all in one colour like mine or multicoloured like my mums. All the colourways that were shared with me were fantastic and pretty but I have just selected a few different for inspiration purposes. So without further ado here are some unbelievably gorgeous blankets to feast your eyes on – and I’ve also added some of the stories the blanket owners have shared!

gerda-2

Made by Gerda for her daughter 💕

barbara-2

Made by Barbara and for her son who likes to steal this blanket to snuggle under! 💕

ruby-2

Ruby took joy in the creating of her beautiful blue blanket 💕

linda-2

Made by Linda for her daughter who loved the gift 💕

sara-2

Made in different tonal blues by Sara 💕

lynn-2

Lynn hooked 3 of each of the large blocks for her pretty blanket 💕

elizabeth-2

Elizabeth made only the little blocks and chose a lovely grouped arrangement 💕

Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I loved seeing your finished blankets 💕

I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! I’ll try not to turn it into too much of an Oscar speech but I feel it’s important to acknowledge all the people behind the scenes that helped make this CAL happen!

Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn for both blankets and so I could make this pattern for you. I need to thank Esther (It’s All in A Nutshell) for making the wonderful CAL video tutorials and to Iris who wonderfully translated the CAL from English to Dutch (which you can find on her blog Een Mooi Gebaar links to all the posts are here).

mum-and-scheepjes-yarn-sscal18

I need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible for you all to make! Big shout outs to Jean, Steff, Dianne, Peggy, Kim, Leanne, Olwyn, Kimberlie, Jenn, Dulcy and Marie! 

Thanks as always to my eldest daughter for posing in photos for me (even without marshmallow bribes!) and to my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo!

And I can’t write this post without thanking the lady without whom I just wouldn’t have ever finished two blankets in time. My lovely mum! I love the fact that we did this together and thank you for helping me with my crochet story, for your weaving in ends prowess and for rolling up your sleeves to just help me get it done! 💕

mum-and-me-sscal18

To be the first to find out about the crochet along for 2019 (later this year) you might like to subscribe to the blog here (if you haven’t already), sign up to my newsletter and / or join the KCACOUK Community Facebook group.

Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!

Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Joining and Edging


SSCAL18-The-End

Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:

Stitch-Story-Part13-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Joining your blocks together

First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design. 

Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.

Top tips for joining:

  1. When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
  2. When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
  3. Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.

Whip-stitch:

  1. Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
  3. Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
  4. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Slip stitch join:

  1. Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
  3. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Post Stitch Rib Border

I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed.  I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).

Joining

Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join

Corner

Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends

Schematics

Heather-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

Jacki-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…

Esthers-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!

Irish-Blessing

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern |Mini Tapestry Christmas Tree Decorations


I love making Christmas decorations so when I got to try some Creativa Fino from Anchor Crafts (review of which you can read here) and as it’s December that’s what I decided to make.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-02

You can scroll down to the written patterns and the charts for the Christmas Wreath and Christmas Tree mini tapestry pillow tree decorations below, but if you are new to tapestry crochet you might want have a look at my mini tapestry crochet tutorial first.

Mini Tapestry Crochet Christmas Tree Decorations:

Materials:

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2

1 x 10g Anchor Creativa

  • Blue (Shade 00269)
  • Green (Shade 00418)
  • Brown (Shade 00257)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 2.5mm (US size C/2)

You will also need:

  • 1 x Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton (232)
  • A yarn needle
  • 1 x Small red bow
  • 8 x Small Red / 8 x Small Silver Beads
  • 1 x Small Star or Snowflake button
  • Small amount of polyester toy filler

Gauge: 5dc = 2cm (0.78inches)

Finished Size:  7 x 7cm (2.75 x 2.75 inches)

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • cc = change colour (see guidance for details)

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Changing Colour:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

Tapestry Crochet:

When changing to and from a colour carry the  unused coloured yarn along with you and crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along, when turning carry your yarn up the side of your work to use on the next row.

Surface Crochet:

Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work,  insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way  according to the design.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-03

Christmas Wreath (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the  beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Rowd 6-8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 3

Row 12: Repeat row 2 – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

  • Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • With Green surface crochet around the outside of the wreath shape.
  • On one side of the wreath shape sew a small red bow and eight red beads around the wreath – see photo above for more details.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-04

Christmas Tree (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Rows 2-3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn

Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 9sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Rows 7 – 8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Rows 9 – 10: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • With Green / Brown surface crochet around the outside of the tree shape.
  • On one side of the tree shape sew small star or snowflake button at the top and eight silver beads for baubles on the tree – see photo for more details.

Finishing:

  1. Place both wreaths / Christmas tree pieces  together, attach blue yarn through both pieces and neatly work 1dc/sc along each edge with 5dc/sc in each corner. Stuff as you go. Fasten off and weave in ends
  2. With Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton Ch30, fasten off but leave long yarn tail.
  3. Attach to the top centre of each pillow decoration as the hanging loop.

Charts:

Christmas-Wreath-Chart

Christmas-Tree-Chart

I hope you will join me in hooking up some little pillow decorations, they are really fun to make! I hope you’ll tag me on social media or link any projects to Ravelry so I can see – I love to see what you make.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial


So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen my review of Anchor Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor crafts kindly sent me to try.  I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row. 

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

Anchor-TUT01

Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

Anchor-TUT02C

Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

Anchor-TUT03

Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

Anchor-TUT04

Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

ANCHOR-TUT05

Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

Anchor-Tut06

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are often  two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

Anchor-Tapestry-Crochet-03

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorial  chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Anchor | Creativa Fino Yarn Review


I had a lovely email recently from Anchor Yarns to see if I would like to review some of their yarn. I’d heard of Anchor crafts through their embroidery threads but I must confess that I hadn’t realised that they also had a range of cottons suitable for crochet.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-03

I enjoy doing the research into yarn companies because they often come from such a rich heritage! And Anchor crafts are no different; the brand can trace back it’s history all the way to 1866 originating in Scotland. As years passed the manufacture of Anchor threads moved from Scotland then to Germany and today, the Anchor brand in Europe is manufactured by Mezcrafts in Hungary.

As well as supply yarn they also seem to have a great ethos as a company; they mention on their website that they are continuously building and improving their ecological footprint by looking to reduce CO2 emissions, have minimal textile waste and through low water consumption. All good stuff! 

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-02

Anchor offer a wide variety of yarns of different thicknesses and compositions suitable for many craft techniques but for crochet they sent me some of their Anchor Creativa to play with.

So let’s check out the yarn’s vital statistics we: 

  • Weight:  4ply / Fingering Weight (2)
  • Blend: 100% Cotton
  • Yarn Ball Weight: 50g
  • Yarn Ball Length: 125m
  • Wash instructions: Machine Wash 40°C
  • Price: £1.90 (at the time of this post)

It’s available in a whopping 72 solid shades in 4ply (and in 8ply) but I was sent a nice selection of six different colours to play with.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-01

It’s really nice yarn to use, it’s very smooth, not rough to work with and as a cotton is great for home decor items and wearables as it’s machine washable – ideal for easy care! The recommended hook size is 2.5mm (US size C/2) which I found to be spot on for me, and I had fun trying out a couple of ideas, but I’ll share a little sneaky peek of the first idea I came up with now…

As it’s Christmas and I love making Christmas decorations I had the idea to make some little Christmas pillow decorations for the tree.  They are a great beginners project to tapestry crochet (of which I’ll share a bit of a photo tutorial), they are quick to make (easily finished in an evening) and so make a fabulous little project for either you or as a seasonal gift for a friend.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

Check back tomorrow for the pattern and tapestry charts for both the Christmas tree and the wreath Christmas crochet decorations.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 12 – The Bee Keeper


SSCAL18-Block12-Blog

Well ladies and gents it’s time for the final block of the Stitch Story blanket! Then it’s just the joining and edging to go and we are done for this year’s crochet-along, and you will have a fabulous blanket all ready to use or gift at Christmas! 

This next block is one of my favourites and was actually going to be the first block in the CAL as it utilises only very easy stitches, however it got moved to the end because it is one of those patterns that you have to concentrate on to get right, but I have included some helpful tips from my testers below.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able.

You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation was available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 12 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 12 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part12-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Honeycomb: The symbol of a hard worker bee. It’s a lucky stitch signifying hard work and sweet rewards!

Design 12: The Bee Keeper

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block12SML-SSCAL

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 26, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (25 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (RS) : Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-25: Repeat rows 2-5,  at the end of row 25 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12SML-SSCAL-CHART

The pattern does not use difficult stitches but it can be tricky to keep a tab on the rows so you know which row you are on.  One of my testers made this very handy chart (below) which you might find helpful:

Block-12-Row-Help

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

BlBlock12_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The ch2, at the beginning of a row,  count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2: (RS): Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. 

Row 6-49: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 49 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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