Happy Lammas Day to you! The wheel of the year is turning once more with the beginning of, hopefully, sunny days of August. Farmers, thoughts will be turning to gathering up the first harvests of grain, wheat, oats and more – and so ours thoughts are turning to our mini-crochet-along where, over the course of 4 weeks, we will crochet a seasonal shawl together that celebrates this time of year.
As promised I’m going to share with you some more information so you can get planning your Lammas Day Shawl including yarn amounts, hook size, the colours I used on the wrap – and even a little sneaky peep of the finished shawl for anyone that wanted to know what it looked like!
I did mention some of the details in my first announcement about the CAL (here) but this post will have all the information you need to get ready to start on 13 August 2021.
Yarn Colours and Amounts:
I’ve crocheted the wrap using five earthy, harvest themed shades of Anchor Organic Cotton; Natural, Sunflower, Rocky Orange, Earthy Brown and Red Dunes – such a lovely autumnal pallet! The amounts I used for my shawl are below;
Anchor Organic Cotton
Balls
Grams
Metres
Natural (00105)
5
250g
623m
Sunflower
1
50g
125m
Rocky Orange
2
70g
150m
Red Dunes
2
60g
137.5m
Earthy Brown
1
50g
125m
Yarn Stockists:
The following stockists in the U.K have the yarn available to buy;
These next retailers also stock the yarn in UK, but it does not appear on their websites, so would need to be a phone call or in store visit for those who live nearby:
You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.
Finished Shawl Size:
The finished shawl finishes up at roughly 165cm / 65″ long by 54cm / 21″ wide (at the widest point) using the yarn specified and at my gauge. Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item may be a different size and potentially use more yarn than stated.
The schematic for the shawl can be seen below.
Pattern:
The pattern will be available for free here on the blog and, after the CAL has finished, as a free PDF, sponsored by Anchor Crafts, on their website. As well as the written pattern and charts of each section there will also be helpful video tutorials. Links to each part will be given on the relevant section of the shawl as per the schedule.
The Schedule,Updates and Support:
If you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find all the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the details via the following links:
The Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters there of all experiences and it’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have. You can of course always contact me too here on the blog.
And finally the moment many of you have been waiting for – a photo of what we will be making!
Links:
The hashtag for this CAL is are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Part 1 will be released on 13 August – I can’t wait to start working on a beautiful wrap together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Hey folks, hope you are well in your part of the world. I’ve got a lovely free-bee for you to enjoy today! Allow me to introduce the Bee-utiful Clutch bag – a small bag with big textured personality!
The bag uses a stitch that I’ve used before; on the Bee Keeper block in the Stitch Story CAL. At the time I thought the stitch pattern was so effective with creating such a beautiful texture that knew I wanted to use it again.
Fast forward three years or so to when I came across some yellow Anchor Creativa Fino in my stash. The stitch idea reignited itself as I thought I would make the bee themed clutch bag idea I’d got rumbling around in my head.
Super simple to make and with many practical uses for a clutch bag or makeup bag; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. I used some bee fabric to line mine, to finish off the inside, but with this stitch pattern you could probably get away with not lining it if you aren’t a fan of sewing.
The following Bee-utiful Clutch Bag is free here on the blog or you can make a beeline for the pattern in your favourite pattern stores where you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Bee-utiful Clutch Bag
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 100g of Yellow
Yarn used: Anchor Creativa Fino used in photos;
(Shade: #00306)
About the yarn: 4ply / Fingering Weight; 125m per 50g ball, 100% Cotton
Hook Size: 3mm (US size D/3)
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
· 2cm (0.8”) Button
· Optional: Facing and material for lining your bag
Finished Size: 19cm (7.4 inches) wide x 12cm (4.7 inches) high
Gauge: 6sts = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st
PATTERN
Main Body of Clutch:
Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on.
Tip 2:You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)
Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.
Row 2 (WS) : Ch1 *5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 3: (RS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 htr then 5 sl st in 5sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 4: (WS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 sl st then 5 sl st in 5 htr * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 5: Ch1, 5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 6-52: Repeat rows 2-5 thirteen times
From this point onwards you will begin shaping the clutch flap;
Row 53: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 46sts, dc2tog, turn. 48sts
Row 54: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 44sts, dc2tog, turn. 46sts
Row 55: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 42sts, dc2tog, turn. 44sts
Rows 57 – 71: Continue decreasing on each end until you have 14sts left.
Row 72: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, ch4, miss 4sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 12sts
Row 73: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, 1dc in each of the ch4 sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 10sts
Row 74: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 6sts, dc2tog, turn, fasten off and weave in ends. 8sts
MAKING UP:
· Fold the bag in half, leaving the gap at the top open with the flap. and seam both sides together on the wrong side.
· Turn your bag right side round and add your button to the body of the bag opposite the open button hole
· Optional: create a lining for your bag
And that’s it! Get ready for taking it out and about and bee-witching all who see your bee-utiful new clutch bag.
If you hook up the Bee-utiful Clutch Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
A lightweight crochet market bag is a must to sling over your shoulders to take grocery shopping, or on a picnic trip, or to the beach – or anywhere you need! My new and free Freccia Filet Market Bag is just the ticket for carrying your oranges – or anything else that takes your fancy!
I think there’s an even bigger need for crochet bags these days as we all try to utilise eco-friendly reusable bags over plastic ones. It’s a great way to use your crochet skills to make something useful and practical – and reusable bags are also perfect summer projects when made in a lightweight yarn!
I’ve had in my mind a pattern for a market bag for ages, so when the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns asked me if I’d like to make a bag with some of their Anchor Freccia yarn I quickly said yes!
Freccia is a 3 ply high quality 100% Egyptian Giza cotton thread offering a delicate balance of softness, flexibility, body and brightness. It’s a versatile thread, available in 6 thread thicknesses, which I’ve used it before for a scarf (see FREE Freccia Flor Scarf here), and it comes in a wide range of different colours.
I used no. 6 thickness again this time, with a 2.5mm hook (US size C/2), and I chose to make my bag in a lovely rich royal purple (shade 00092). The whole bag, including the straps, used 4 x 50g (4 x 175m) balls in total to create a bag with a width of 38cm (14″) x length 40cm (15″) , bag handles 62cm (24″) in length.
Made with cotton yarn the Freccia Filet Market Bag is super robust and if it gets dirty, you can just throw it in the washing machine and hang it up to dry!
I wanted to create a bag that was strong and durable, but also that would be a bit pretty – that’s where the filet came in. To begin with I had in mind a larger filet design on the bag, but quickly realised that wasn’t going to be at all practical as things could potentially fall through the ‘holes’ so I decided the design would be served better by having a filet detail around the top.
The bag and the filet sections are worked in a unique way in rounds and in rows to minimise a visible seam at the end. Crocheting the bottom and the straps, with extra slip stitches, also makes the bag extra durable so they can hold then a lot of weight even with only using a lightweight cotton.
The Freccia Filet Market Bag is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
Crochet a single colour bags or in variegated yarn, or maybe in the rainbow colour palette, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. Great for anyone that wants a new reusable bag, or maybe someone who wants to try a bit of filet crochet (it’s a technique I don’t think I’m ever going to get sick of!).
Perfect for rolling up and popping in your handbag for when you need a bag, or pack it up and go!
If you hook up the Filet Market Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Although our recent crochet along journey is at an end I really wanted to do a post showcasing some of the wonderful Filet Fantastic blankets that YOU have made! It’s been such a privilege to have had the opportunity to watch your blankets grow every week – it has been really special to see.
Don’t if you are new to the blog and this is the first you are hearing about this CAL; you can find a list with all the links about the CAL here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.
This pattern will be free here on the blog but it will also be available in an e-book on Ravelry. Now that the CAL is over the full e-booklet with all the pattern details has been uploaded to Ravelry (and will be added to my other pattern stores if you don’t use Ravelry). This booklet is available in either UK or US terms and contains the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place.
It’s amazing how many countries this blanket has been made in including; UK, US, Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Germany, Canada, Sweden, Czech Republic, Italy, France and Ireland!
There have been many beautiful blankets put together with the exclusive kits from Black Sheep Wools , there were two rainbow colourway options, one in Scheepjes Colour Crafter (DK) and another in Scheepjes Riverwashed (4ply) – both are yarns which I’ve personally used many times and love.
Doesn’t that collection of beautiful happy rainbow blankets just make your heart sing! They are all just so pretty!
If you were looking to purchase a kit from Black Sheep Wools although the kits are showing out of stock at the moment, Black Sheep are in the process of getting the yarn together to restock (it’s just been held up a little by the new Brexit procedures). If you click on the button ‘notify me when available’ on their website, then you will get an email when the kits are available to order again.
There are also some stash buster, own colourways or single colour blankets photos that have been shared. I’d love to share all the blankets that have been made, as they are all so fantastic – but that would be an extremely lost post, so I have just selected a few different ones for inspiration purposes.
Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I have really loved seeing your finished blankets 💕
Although the our current CAL is now over please keep sharing your photos on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – they are such a wonderful source of inspiration for us all.
I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! There’s actually more people than me that helped to make this CAL happen! Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn support for the Colour Crafter blanket so I could offer an alternative option of yarn for you. I need to thank Sara and Lucy from Black Sheep Wools for their time in putting together the kits, big thanks to Mrs G Makes and Simply Shade Cards for their stitch marker and shade card contributions.
I also need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible and who helped with the moderation of the Facebook Group during CAL. So big shout outs to Kimberlie, Steff, Kim, Tracey L, Tracey P, Amanda, Leanne, Paula, Dulcy, Jan, Jacki and Leanne – this wouldn’t have been possible without your help!
Thanks as always to my family for bearing with me while I worked on the CAL; especially my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo, and to my wonderful mum who crocheted up the second colour crafter version of the blanket 💕
Now it’s time for me to fold up my Filet Fantastic Blanket!
But our community crafting endeavours are not yet over for this year, we’ve got our summer make-along starting on 5 July (read more about Whispers of the Sea here).
You might also wish to mark on your calendar a BRAND NEW four part FREE mini make along, sponsored by Anchor Yarns, starting on 1 August – though I’ll tell you more about that later, though you could always sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter to be kept up to date with any new plans.
And of course there is always 2022…you’ll be pleased to hear that planning for the next big CAL is already underway!
I hope you will continue to join me with these projects, it’s so wonderful to watch my designs grow with you!
Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!
Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.
Wow! I can’t even say how it feels to be sharing with you the last part of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along today! Over the last 12 weeks – we have worked together to build some AMAZING blankets together, and I hope you have enjoyed the CAL as much as I enjoyed designing it for you. Below you will find the very last 4 rounds of our blanket *sniff sniff*.
As you maybe aware unfortunately there were a few errors discovered in Part 11 – these have been amended here on the blog and on Ravelry. In addition I’ve also added an extra chart as an example for the corner of Part 11 as somebody mentioned that would be useful.
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 11’s. Not as many to share yet this week as I know Part 11 was the biggest part of the whole CAL, and it might take some people a little bit longer to finish up their blankets. The photos below have been taken from Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 12 – The Border
335g / 871m or 4 balls of of Scheepjes River Washed Steenbras (Shade 942) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Meppel (1061).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Treble 5 together (tr5tog): The Treble Crochet 5 Together is a technique uses a series of trebles into one stitch to create a cluster. To tr5tog, work 5tr all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 12
Part 12 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3tr, ch2, 2tr) on rnd 3.
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then work 1BPtr in each st and (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2tr, ch2, 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300trs each side)
Rnd 2: Ch3, 1tr in each st around with [2tr,ch2, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216trs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304trs each side)
Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, * ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1tr in the next st [3tr,ch3, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828trs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207trs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)
Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of tr5tog) complete tr5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the tr5tog (picot made), ch3, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), tr5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, tr5tog, ch3, sl st to top of tr5tog, ch5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning tr5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x tr5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x tr5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).
Chart for sections of Part 12 below *
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): The Double crochet 5 Together is a technique uses a series of double crochets into one stitch to create a cluster. To dc5tog, work 5dc all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 12
Part 12 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3dc, ch2, 2dc) on rnd 3.
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then work 1BPdc in each st and (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2dc, ch2, 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300dcs each side)
Rnd 2: Ch3, 1dc in each st around with [2dc,ch2, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216dcs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304dcs each side)
Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, * ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1dc in the next st [3dc,ch3, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828dcs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207dcs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)
Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of dc5tog) complete dc5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the dc5tog (picot made), ch3, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), dc5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, dc5tog, ch3, sl st to top of dc5tog, ch 5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning dc5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x dc5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x dc5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! We are all finished! I’ve added a little bit more time to the schedule for you to finish, or catch up, before I do a round up of all your wonderful blankets on 4 June, so please keep sharing! Happy hooking until then!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Edited: Following some errors on the written rnds of Part 11 this pattern was amended on 18 May, sorry for any confusion caused.
Here we are! The penultimate part of our Filet Fantastic Crochet Along! I’ve released Part 11 a little bit earlier because this is the biggest section of the CAL so thought you might appreciate a bit of a head start. This week we set up the border by going all the way around all the parts we have made so far!
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 10’s, and some photos of other people who have just started the CAL and are catching up (amazing!), that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 11 – Fancy Filet
335g / 871m or 7 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Colorado (Shade 941) or 4 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Dracten (1084).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 11 – 165 x 165 cm (65 x 65 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 11
Part 11 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);
Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout), then work, 1tr around the same post, 2tr around each remaining tr post of Part 10 (22sts), 1tr in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2tr around each post tr of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3tr in the last post, (256sts)
Side 2: Ch2, 1tr in each st of side 10; including the top of the tr of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
Side 3: Repeat side 1
Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.
(1024trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)
Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.
Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 7sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198trs + 32 xch2-sps per side)
Rnd 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ], repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the next 5sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts. ]] Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (312trs, 124dcs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78trs, 31dcs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two tr’s of the first 6trs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.
If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206trs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 9sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336trs, 128dcs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84trs, 32dcs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 13sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ], repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1tr in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]] repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360trs, 132dcs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90trs, 33dcs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 15sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first tr) 1tr in each st and ch-sp around; working (2tr, ch2,2tr) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184tr each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296trs each side).
Chart for section of Part 11 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 11
Part 11 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);
Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout), then work, 1dc around the same post, 2dc around each remaining dc post of Part 10 (22sts), 1dc in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2dc around each post dc of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3dc in the last post, (256sts)
Side 2: Ch2, 1dc in each st of side 10; including the top of the dc of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
Side 3: Repeat side 1
Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.
(1024dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)
Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.
Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 7sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198dcs + 32 xch2-sps per side)
Rnd 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ], repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the next 5sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts. ]] Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (312dcs, 124scs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78dcs, 31scs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two dc’s of the first 6dcs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.
If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206dcs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 9sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336dcs, 128scs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84dcs, 32scs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 13sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ], repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1dc in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]] repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360dcs, 132scs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90dcs, 33scs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 15sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first dc) 1dc in each st and ch-sp around; working (2dc, ch2,2dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184dc each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296dcs each side + 4 x 2ch-sps).
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! The biggest part of the CAL is now finished, all we have left is the border just to finish it off, it really won’t be long now until your wonderful blanket is all put together!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Wow how fast does the CAL seem to be speeding along, we’re on Part 10 already which means in a couple more weeks you could potentially have a finished blanket!
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 9’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 10 – Bobble Grid
Yarn: 166g / 431.6m or 4 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Wheaton (Shade 958) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Hengelo (1084).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 10 – 140 x 140 cm (55 x 55 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 10
You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 9 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 8 until end, turn (257sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [ twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 10 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 10
You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra dc’s on Part 9 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 8 until end, turn (257sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [ twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! And that’s the end of our building blocks! We are now back to our square shape and in Part 11 (the biggest part of the CAL) we are going to be working our way around the whole blanket to join our sections together ready for the last part of the border.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Have you got that Friday feeling? It’s that time of the week where we look at a new CAL section, this time it’s Part 9 which means that there are only another 3 weeks until the end of our crochet-along!
I hope you are enjoying us crocheting along together, I have been just loving seeing how your unique and wonderful blankets have been developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 8’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 9 – Bobble Flowers
Yarn: 130g / 338m or 3 balls of Scheepjes Riverwashed Tiber (Shade 958) or 130g / 338m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Brugge (1003).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 9 – 140 x 115 cm (55 x 45 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 9
You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 6 until end, turn (213sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, [ Open Block, PS, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 7: Repeat row 5
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 9 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 9
You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 6 until end, turn (213sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, [ Open Block, PS, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 7: Repeat row 5
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3
Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! Only three more sections to go until your wonderful blankets are complete, it’s all onwards and upwards now to that finishing point when you weave in that last yarn tail of your blanket!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
It’s Friday, which means it’s CAL day, and I’m here with part 8 of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along, I hope you are ready to get your hooks into this next section of our blanket which is growing ever bigger! This week we are going to be adding some nice, easy repetitive dashes to bring us back to a square shape.
But before we get to part 8 I’m going to share a few of the finished 7’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram because I really like that part – it’s just such a lovely thing to have everyone crocheting along together and see each other’s progress isn’t it.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 8 – Dashes
Yarn: 140g / 364m or 3 balls of of Scheepjes Riverwashed Amazon (Shade 951) or 140g / 420m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Middlesburg (1003).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 8 – 115 x 115 cm (45 x 45 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 8
You will build part 8 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 8 you will be working on Parts 6 and 7.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 7 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 7; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 7 until end, turn (215sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout), Bl, [ (Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 3 ], Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 3: Ch3, Bl, [(Bl) x 3, (Open Block) x 3] Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Bl) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 8 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 8
You will build part 8 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 8 you will be working on Parts 6 and 7
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra dc’s on Part 7 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 7; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 7 until end, turn (215sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout), Bl, [ (Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 3 ], Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 3: Ch3, Bl, [(Bl) x 3, (Open Block) x 3] Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Bl) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! We are slowly getting bigger (and have to have more creative when photographing our piece – I think I was standing on a chair at this point!). Only five more sections after this to go until you have your own special and unique blanket to snuggle under.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Welcome to part 7 of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along folks! I seems as if we are going really fast with this CAL – or is it just me? Part 7 is actually one of my most favourite sections, I love the effect of the filet on this part.
But before we get to part 7 I’m going to share a few of the finished 6’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram because I really like that part – it’s just such a lovely thing to have everyone crocheting along together and see each other’s progress isn’t it.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 7 – Diagonal Stripes
Yarn: 105g / 273m or 3 balls of of Scheepjes Riverwashed Narmada (Shade 962) or 105g / 315m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Ameland (1725).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 7 – 115 x 94 cm (45 x 37 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 6
You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL;
· To set up making Part 7 you will be working on Parts 5 and 6.
· We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 6 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 6; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 6 until end, turn (171sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 2, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, BL, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 2, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 1, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, (BL) x 2, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, BL, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, BL, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, (BL) x 2, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Chart for section of Part 7 below (rows 1 -11) * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Row 12: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat row 1
Row 13: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Open Block) x 2 [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times (BLx 2), 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 15: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 16: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[(Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 14: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3, ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Bl) x 2, Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 17: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3,(Bl) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 18: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 19: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Open Block) [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (BL) x 2, Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 20: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 21: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 22: Ch3, 1tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Chart for section of Part 7 below (rows 12 -22) * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 7
You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 7 you will be working on Parts 5 and 6.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 6 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 6; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 6 until end, turn (171sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 2, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, BL, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 2, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 1, (BL) x 2 ], [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, (BL) x 2, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2, ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, BL, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, BL, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, (BL) x 2, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Row 12: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat row 1
Row 13: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Open Block) x 2 [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from
[[ fifteen times (BLx 2), 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 14: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3, ]] Repeat from
[[ fifteen times, (Bl) x 2, Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 15: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 16: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[(Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 17: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[ (Open Block) x 3,(Bl) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 18: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 19: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Open Block) [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (BL) x 2, Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 20: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [[ (BL) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ]] Repeat from [[ sixteen times, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 21: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, [[ (Open Block) x 3, (BL) x 2 ]] Repeat from [[ fifteen times, (Open Block) x 3, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 22: Ch3, 1dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! We are slowly getting bigger (and have to have more creative when photographing our piece – I think I was standing on a chair at this point!). Only five more sections after this to go until you have your own special and unique blanket to snuggle under.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
