The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Welcome to part 2 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Selection of photos, made by the crochet community, of Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23

So are you are ready to crack on with part 2! For the second part of the CAL we are going to be working little buds around our tree using a special stitch to create some fabulous texture.

A bud is a small pointed lump that appears on a tree or plant and develops into a leaf or flower – that’s why I’ve chosen it for the next part of our crochet-along, the wood is growing around our tree!

Inspirational photo for KCACOUKCAL23 - Little Buds

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 pinned onto a tree trunk

The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Yarn: 80g / 200m / 219yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Seafoam (7143) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Parchment (1218) – YARN B

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 2 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 37cm (14.5”) wide x 40cm (15.7”) long
  • In Special DK: 30.5cm (15”) wide x 43.5cm (17”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • [[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.  

PATTERN – PART 2

  • Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first tr + ch-3 here and throughout), 1tr in same corner sp, then work 1BPtr around the next st and in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work dc in the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning dc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in. 59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, {[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 4sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1dc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the next st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1tr in the last st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the  LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1dc in the last 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr in same corner sp), then work 1tr in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPtr when it should have been BPtr, written instructions were correct.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Back Post double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work

Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work

[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified

[[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified

( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a                     

stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 2

Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first dc + ch-3 here and throughout), 1dc in same corner sp, then work 1BPdc around the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work sc in the next st and in each st around working (1sc, ch3, 1sc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning sc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in.

59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, {[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1sc in the last 4sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1sc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the next st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1dc in the last st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below,

[1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1sc in the last 2sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1sc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc in same corner sp), then work 1dc in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPdc when it should have been BPdc, written instructions were correct.

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 held up in front of a woodland scene

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! I look forward to seeing your progress later this week.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!

Inspirational shot of a large tree in the middle of a woodland

This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.

As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree. The central motif is shown pinned to a tree trunk in a wood.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 1 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
  • In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Row 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 7 of the KCACOUKCAL23 Chart

Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 9 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn


Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 11 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 13 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 15 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 17 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.      

Rows 18-23 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

Row 25 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

Full crochet chart for 'The Tree' part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts  (1htr, ch3, 1htr)  in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts,  (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts,  (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23; the central crochet motif of a tree is pictured lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,

· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows    below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 5:            

Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows             below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.         

Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.

Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc)  in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Isaz Afghan Block

I’m excited to share a brand new free crochet block pattern with you today called the Isaz Afghan Block. Named after the Viking word for ‘Ice’ this 8 inch (20cm2) crochet block is filled with wintery themed textures crochet stitches that would make a lovely textured addition to your crochet blanket.

Crochet squares I think are such fun things to play with because you can come up with unlimited ideas and colour combinations – I had real fun with the texture on this block.

I’ve used some Scheepjes Stone Washed XL for my square but you could easily use up scrap yarn to make several of the these blocks and join them into an afghan/ blanket, or a scarf maybe, or even a table runner.

This block pattern is part of the Charity Cozy Fall make along (MAL) where 60 unique blanket squares are released for the month of October to form a cozy blanket. You can find all the MAL info in this post here, along with a link to a PDF bundle for either crochet, knit or Tunisian crochet squares (or to all three in a Trifecta saver bundle). 30% of all proceeds go towards supporting children in need as a donation to Cure Childhood Cancer. The PDF bundle is only available for the duration of the MAL – so grab your bundle now!

Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

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Isaz Afghan Block

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Materials

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted), Scheepjes Stone Washed XL used in photographs.

  • Crystal Quartz   (854)  YARN A
  • Green Agate      (855)  YARN B
  • Blue Apatite       (845)  YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

Gauge: 4dc = 3inch / 7.6cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of                indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • [ … ]     Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

Pattern Notes

  • The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as  a st
  • The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
  • The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 2 tr into the ring, ch3, [ 3tr, ch3 ] repeat from [ … ]  twice more, sl st to the top of the              beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 12sts / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch1, [ (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the same sp, ch3, miss 3 sts ]  repeat from [ … ] three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join.. 8sts / 8 x ch3-sps

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch3-sp; ch6 (counts at first tr + ch3, here and throughout), 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in the next ch3-sp ] repeat twice more, ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 28sts / 8 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch3-sp,  repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 44sts / 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 5: Join Yarn A with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch5 (counts at first htr + ch3, here and throughout) 1htr in the same sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, sl st to the top of the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 52sts / 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 6: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next 3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next

3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 44sts / 16 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 7: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch-sp ] repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 68sts / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 8: With Yarn A; ch5, 1htr in the same ch-sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts. Sl st to the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. to Fasten off A and weave in ends, 76sts / 4 x ch3- sps

Rnd 9: Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 2tr in the same sp, [ 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts (2tr, ch3, 2tr) ] repeat [ … ] three times, 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts. 1tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join.  Fasten off C and weave in ends, 92sts / 4 x ch3-sps

And that’s it!

BLOCKING

Your square may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Summer Lawn Granny Square

The official Granny Square Day might have passed, but as a granny square can be for any day I thought I’d share a free copy of one of the patterns I designed for Simply Crochet back in 2020. The pattern is called Summer Lawn and it’s a relatively easy block – perfect for beginners.

I used Rico Ricorumi for my blocks, with a 4mm hook (closest US size G) which is a DK (Light Worsted) weight 100% cotton yarn that I had in my stash. However this design would work equally well in any DK yarn or in fact with other fibres and yarn weights to make bigger or smaller blocks.

This is a fun summer block that would look great together in a blanket or as a component in a multi-square afghan, bag or cushion project. Like most motifs they are quick and satisfying to make and a great way to use up scraps.

🌻 SAVE THE SUMMER LAWN BLOCK ON RAVELRY 🌻

The Summer Lawn pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

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Summer Lawn Square

Yarn Required: 25g / 58m

Yarn Used in photos: Rico Ricorumi DK

  • YARN A – Tangerine (026)
  • YARN B – Saffron (063)
  • YARN C – Pistachio (047)

About the yarn: Rico Ricorumi DK; 8ply / Double Knit;  25g / 58m; 100% Cotton

Finished Size: 10cm width x 10cm high

Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.

You will also need:

Gauge: A single square motif measures 10cm² (3.9in²) using a 4mm hook

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a  different size.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

  • How to surface crochet: start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.
  • (…) any stitches in brackets work into one stitch or space.
  • *…* any stitches between * icon repeat as required

Pattern:

The ch3 at the beginning of each round counts as a tr throughout.

With YARN A

Ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch-3, 11tr into the ring, ss to top of beginning ch-3 to join [12 sts]

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 2: With YARN B join on RS with a ss to the top of any tr, ch3, 1tr in the same st as the beginning ch3, then work 2tr in each st around until end, ss to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. [24 sts]

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 3: With YARN C join on RS with a ss in-between any tr of the previous rnd, ch3, 2tr in the same sp, * miss 3sts, 3tr in-between the next tr’s of the previous rnd, miss 3sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in-between the next tr’s of the previous rnd *repeat from * twice more, miss 3sts, 3tr in-between the next tr’s of the previous rnd, miss 3sts, ss to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. [36sts + 4 x ch3-sps]

Rnd 4: Ch3, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in the next sp, * 3tr in the next 2sps, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) * repeat from * twice more, 3tr in the next sp, 2tr in the last sp, ss to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. [48sts + 4 x ch3-sps]

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next sp, * 1tr in 12sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) * repeat from * three times, 1tr in the next 8sts, ss to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. [56sts + 4 x ch3-sps]

Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing

  • With YARN A surface crochet around the top of rnd 1
  • With YARN A surface crochet on top of two opposite sides of rnd 4
  • With YARN B surface crochet around the posts of rnd 5 on opposite sides to the YARN A

And that’s it, you’ve finished your lovely new motif!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from (e.g. as a project on Ravelry). I hope you’ll tag me too (@kcaco.uk on Instagram) using the hashtag #kcacouk or share your photos on social media (facebooktwitter or Pinterest) – I love to see what you make! 

Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Happy Bee Keyring

To bee or not to bee, that is the question? I’ll say definitely to bee as I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern winging it’s way over to you today. Allow me to introduce the Happy Bee Key Ring!

Now I know there are a few bee key ring patterns already in existence, but you can never have too much choice can you, so I’m adding my little bee into the hive because he’s meant to bee made and who can resist a good free-bee!

For my little bee I used Scheepjes Catona which is 100% cotton 4ply (fingering) yarn with a  3mm hook (closest US size D/3). I used three shades; Lemon (280), Jet Black (110) and Snow White (106), and a smidgeon of Tulip (222) – and I didn’t use that much really, in fact if you used the 25g (62m / 68yds) you’d probably be able to make a small swarm!

They are incredibly quick and satisfying and sort of addictive to make, sometimes it’s nice to have a fairly fast project to make isn’t it for that quick win feeling.

🐝 SAVE THE HAPPY BEE KEYRING ON RAVELRY 🐝

I made several bees to go with, amongst other things, some homemade honey comb ( also known as Cinder Toffee) for some end of year teacher gifts. The honeycomb was actually easier (on the second try) to make than I thought. The secret is to make sure your sugar is hot enough! I used this recipe here if you are interested, and I can confirm it is rather delicious broken into shards and scattered over ice-cream.

The Happy Bee Keyring pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

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Happy Bee Keyring

Yarn Required: 10g / 25m

Yarn Used in photos: Scheepjes Catona

  • YARN A – Lemon (280)
  • YARN B – Jet Black (110)
  • YARN C – Snow White (106)
  • YARN D – Tulip (222) small amount

About the yarn: Scheepjes Catona; 4ply / Fingering Weight;  10g / 25m; 100% Cotton

Finished Size: 5cm (2”) long

Hook Size(s): 3mm (US size D/3).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.

You will also need:

Gauge: 5dc = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a  different size.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

  • Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. If you are not  familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
  • Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a  spiral without slip stitching or turning chains  . Use a stitch marker to help mark the beginning of each row.

Pattern:

Body

Rnd 1: With YARN A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts

Rnd 2: [2dc in each st] around. 12sts

Rnd 3: [1dc in the first st, 2dc in the next st] around. 18 sts

Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in the next st] around. 24sts

Rnd 5: 1dc in each st around.

Fasten off YARN A, attach YARN B to the top of any st;

Rnd 6: 1dc in each st around.

Rnd 7: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 20sts

Fasten off YARN B, attach YARN A to the top of any st;

Rnd 8 – 9: 1dc in each st around.

Fasten off YARN A, attach YARN B to the top of any st;

Rnd 10 – 11: 1dc in each st around. Fasten off YARN B;

· Add eyes between rnds 4 – 5 approx. 6sts apart

· With black embroidery thread embroider on a mouth over rnd 2 (using photos as a guide)

· With YARN D embroider on some cheeks just below each eye (using photos as a guide

Attach YARN A to the top of any st;

Rnd 12: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in the next st] around. 24sts

Rnd 13: 1dc in each st around.

Fasten off YARN A, attach YARN B to the top of any st;

Rnd 14: 1dc in each st around.

· Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go

Rnd 15: [1dc in the next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18 sts

Rnd 16: [1dc in the next st, dc2tog] around. 12 sts

Rnd 17: [dc2tog] six times. 6 sts

Fasten off and use the yarn tail to sew up the 6 remaining sts.

Wings – Make 2

Rnd 1: With YARN C; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts

Rnd 2: [2dc in each st] around. 12sts

Rnd 3: [1dc in the first st, 2dc in the next st] around. 18 sts

Fasten off but leave yarn tail for sewing onto the body.

FINISHING

  • Add key ring slip ring to the top centre of the body (approx. rnd 9)
  • Attach the wings, either side of the key ring slip ring, so that the wings point upwards (using the photos as a guide)

And that’s it, you’ve finished your lovely new key ring!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from (e.g. as a project on Ravelry). I hope you’ll tag me too (@kcaco.uk on Instagram) using the hashtag #kcacouk or share your photos on social media (facebooktwitter or Pinterest) – I love to see what you make! 

Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Flowery Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

I’m happy to share with you today, the last crochet jewellery set that I’ve created in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts. This is the third and final set of three, the first was the Geometric Jewellery set, then there was the Leaves Jewellery set, finally we have the Flowery Jewellery set.

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This pretty long necklace set is inspired by nature with two sizes of flowers that offer a touch of timeless elegance. Sitting gracefully around your neck, the necklace is created on one long beaded chain that can be made longer or shorter to compliment what you are wearing.

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (closest US size C/2) hook. I used two shades for this set; 00968 Baby Pink and 00387 Cream but it would work just as well in a single colour – and the colour combinations you could create are endless.

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need some items to make your jewellery set. I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some 40 x light pink beads if you want to make yours exactly like mine – I have a multicoloured set of beads that I used for my jewellery.

❤️ SAVE THE FLOWERY JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

I love how pretty and delicate this set turned out; you would undoubtedly have enough yarn to make a set for a special friend or family member after you have made one for yourself!

The pattern for the Flowery Jewellery Set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE FLOWERY JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

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Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Leaves Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

I’m delighted to share with you today, the next crochet jewellery set that I’ve created in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts. This is the second set of three, the first was the Geometric Jewellery set, and I’ve got one more set to share with you after today. Today’s set is called the Leaves Jewellery set and it consists of a necklace with matching earrings.

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This delicate twisted leaf set is inspired by nature with gentle curves and twists that work with each other to create some organic style beauty. It’s another set which I think would be easy to wear and would look good as a Spring set (as I’ve created) or equally as good in Autumnal colours – you have the opportunity to make something unique!

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (closest US size C/2) hook. I used two lovely Spring shades for this set; 00676 Duck Egg and 00666 Teal and as the yarn comes in 50g [191 yards /175 meters] you could make a few matching sets from the two balls.

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need some items to make your jewellery set. I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some 35 x duck egg coloured beads and 32 x teal coloured beads if you want to make yours exactly like mine – I have a multicoloured set of beads that I used for my jewellery.

❤️ SAVE THE LEAVES JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

© Anchor Crafts 2022

Crochet jewellery is such a nice quick project to work on, and I think the Leaves Jewellery set would make the perfect addition to your daily collection – or they could make a lovely project to gift to friends or family.

The pattern for the Leaves Jewellery Set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE LEAVES JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

I really enjoyed making this set and hope you will too – I’ve got one more free jewellery set to share with you soon, so make sure you check back for the details – you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

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If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Geometric Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

In collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts, I’ve got not 1, not 2, but THREE brand new free crochet patterns to share with you and they are all for something a little bit different – crochet jewellery! I’m going to share each set one by one (over the next few days) so all the relevant information for each set is easy to find. First up is the Geometric Jewellery set comprising of necklace, bracelet and earrings!

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This bold square set is inspired by art deco style of geometric shapes with strong precise lines. Extremely easy to wear as an eye-catching set or as individual pieces, this modern contemporize crochet jewellery is designed for those who want to make a statement!

❤️ SAVE THE GEOMETRIC JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (Closest US size C/2) hook. I used four different colours (00403 Black, 00092 Purple, 00666 Teal, 00089 Fuchsia).

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need to pick up somethings to add to your crochet; I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for bracelets and necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some iridescent seed beads (I have a multicoloured set) though this could be optional, but I liked the bit of added sparkle!

© Anchor Crafts 2022

Crochet jewellery make lovely quick projects as they are certainly quicker than a jumper or amigurumi as they can usually be completed in a couple of days or less!

The pattern for the geometric jewellery set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE GEO JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

I love how the set turned out, and hope you do too – I’ll be sharing two more free sets soon, so make sure you check back for the details – you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

Pin this project for later:

If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.

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Free Pattern | Christmas Decoration Trio

If you love Christmas then you are going to love what I’ve got to share with you today! I’m delighted to tell you that, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts, I’ve got a brand new FREE trio of hanging ornaments for you.

There’s a shining star, a jolly holly wreath and a twirly tree in the set to get you in the holiday spirit. They are an awesome antidote to wanting to make something, but not too big, at Christmas time!

They make a great seasonal project to make you feel festive and are great to make as gifts too.

It’s no secret that Christmas is my favourite season and one of my most favourite things to make for the holidays are Christmas Tree decorations!

I love making decorations for several reasons, they are usually quick, satisfying, great stash-busters and something you can bring out to enjoy every year!

❤️ Favourite Christmas Decoration Trio on Ravelry ❤️

I used quite traditional shades of Anchor Creativa Fino for my ornaments which is 100% mercerized cotton, 4ply natural fibre yarn. and Anchor Metallic yarn, which is a blend of viscose (80%) and metallised polyester (20%), both with a 3mm (US size 5/0) hook. Along side the sparkle of the metallic yarn I also added some 0.6 seed beads and shiny bells because I think you can never have too much twinkle at Christmas!

I’ve used Creativa Fino for lots of projects now including some other tree decorations (most of which are free patterns with links here on the blog) I really like Creativa Fino to work with, it’s a nice firm mercerised cotton which I think works particularly well for amigurumi and ornaments like these.

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The pattern for the trio is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Crochet Cloth Trio

A few months ago I was contacted by the folks at Performance Yarn to see if I would like to try out some of their products. Never one to shy away from trying something new, especially yarn related, I said yes please – and they kindly sent me a few of their products to try.

In the package that arrived their were a few different yarns; there were some balls of their Lollipop 100% organic cotton in a variegated shades of white, reds, browns and pinks. There was another type of yarn called Woolinen, which is a gorgeous 80% merino superwash and 20% linen each in a solid forest green and bracken brown colour, and finally some Cotton Bay which is 100% combed cotton in some lovely bright pink, yellow and white. That particular yarn caught my eye for a project that I’ve had on my mind to do for awhile now; I’ve been wanting to make some crochet cloths.

I’ve been asked a few times about good patterns for a newbie crocheters to try, especially if they don’t like the idea of making granny squares. Well crochet dishcloths are a great starter project and they are a great way to learn new stitches. As they are usually made with textured crochet stitches they are ideal for cleaning either your dishes or scrubbing your face. They make great gifts (for housewarming or for a spa bundle) and are usually quite quick to make.

The best type of yarn to use for crochet washcloths is either cotton (or a cotton blend) just like the combed Cotton Bay I was sent to try. Cotton is durable, absorbent, washable and dries quickly and fully so perfect for cleaning cloths.

The Crochet Cloth Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern below is written just in UK terms, if you aren’t sure of those you can view a handy US conversion chart here on the blog.

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Crochet Cloth Trio

Materials

Yarn Required: Approx 40g or less per cloth

Yarn Used: Performance Cotton Bay in shades:

  • 187 (Yellow)            YARN A
  • 02 (White)                YARN B
  • 34 (Pink)                  YARN C

About the yarn: 4ply / Sport weight: 120m per 50g ball .

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size D/3)

You will also need:

Gauge: 5dc = 1inch / 2.5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post double crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from back to front around the post of the stitch of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Patterns

LEMON PEEL CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
  • The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch42, 1dc in second ch from hook, [1tr in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch2, 1tr in the first st, [1dc in the next st, 1tr in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the first st, [1tr in the next st, 1dc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  32: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

EVEN MOSS STITCH  CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
  • The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
  • Do not pull your slip stitches too tight

Row 1: With Yarn B; ch42, 1htr in second ch from hook, [sl st in the next ch, 1htr in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch1, sl st on the top of the previous 1htr [ 1htr on top of the sl st of the previous row, sl st on top of the htr of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr on the top of the previous 1htr [ sl st on top of the htr of the previous row, 1 htr on top of the sl st of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  46: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

VINTAGE RASPBERRY STITCH CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any even number of stitches;
  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
  • Do not work the FPdc too tightly

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch43, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each st until end., turn. 42 sts

Row 2: Ch1, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the last 2sts, 1dc in the remaining sts, turn.

Rows 4 –  44: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

Edging for all Cloths

Do not fasten off after the last row but work 1dc evenly along each row and row end (with 3dc in each corner). Fasten off and weave in ends.

BLOCKING

Your cloths may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

And that’s it! I hope you enjoy using your new cloths!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.

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