It was a pleasure to be contacted, at the end of last year, by the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns to see if I wanted to try out some of their new Freccia yarn in some brand new colours.
Using five different shades of Freccia yarn I’ve put together a fun fashion scarf which is perfect for spring and summer accessorising. Allow me to introduce the Freccia Flor Scarf which is available for FREE from the Anchor website (see link below).
Freccia yarn is a high quality twisted mercerised cotton which is a structured yet flexible yarn that’s available in a range of bright colours. It comes in 6 different thread thicknesses, the thinnest thickness is Nº 20 and the thickest is Nº 6, but it was the 3ply (No. 6) that I got to play with in the 50g balls.
The yarn is ideal for fashion wear because it’s fine but strong, it can be washed with hot water in the washing machine up to 95ºC and you can potentially iron it at a high temperature.
I used a 3mm hook ( roughly equivalent to a US size D3) to create this scarf which measures 160cm long x 15cm wide (63 inches long x 6 inches wide). The perfect length for a carefree look wrapped around your neck with the loose beaded flowery ends hanging down in front.
I wanted to create something that was pretty and feminine and with it’s simple crochet pattern, for the main body of the scarf, it’s a very mindful project which I enjoyed making.
Finally I encorporated beads onto the fringe to add weight to each end of the scarf. The scarf really benefits from having the extra substance to the fringe to allow gravity to help keep it in perfect shape and drape – and who can resist an extra bit of bling (not me)!
I’m not going to lie it does take a while to add the beads, but it’s so worth it in the end, it adds a wonderfully tactile finish; it’s so lovely to run your fingers through the fringing when you’re wearing the scarf!
Scarves, like the Freccia Flor, are the perfect way to introduce colour to an otherwise plain outfit and you could repeat the pattern in a variety of different colours – I think a grey main colour and an ombre effect of pink flowers would look particularly nice for instance.
The Freccia Flor Scarf is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
This pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches, or for anyone that just wants a fancy scarf to add to their accessories.
If you hook up the Freccia Flor Scarf I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk or #frecciaflor and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I think I’ve said before that one of my favourite things to crochet and make are Christmas decorations. I love that they become part of the fabric of your Christmas and bring back memories as they are brought out again year after year. So I decided to make another one this year that I’d like to share with you – it’s for a Little Christmas Bell ornament for your tree.
Now you can add the perfect finishing touch to your Christmas tree this festive season with a little handmade bell decoration that really rings! With easy simple steps this mini bell decoration is a fun and fast gift to make or to keep for your own tree.
Last year you may remember that I made some mini tapestry tree decorations (FREE pattern here) with some Creativa Fino yarn kindly gifted from Anchor Crafts. I really like Creativa Fino to work with, it’s a nice firm mercerised cotton which I think works particularly well for amigurumi and ornaments like this one.
The following Little Christmas Bell Tree Ornament pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Yarn: 9g / 25m of Anchor Creativa Fino Gold or Silver Coloured 4ply Cotton 0.85g / 2.5m of Anchor Gold or Silver Metallic Thread Small amounts of Anchor Creativa Fino Red and Green 4ply Cotton
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 2.75mm (US size D/3)
You will also need:
1 x 10mm gold or silver jingle bell
Stitch Marker
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 6dc = 2.5cm / 1 inch
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 8cm / 3.14inches
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
rev.dc/sc Reverse UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Using a stitch marker: The bell is worked in the usual amigurumi style worked without joining in continuous rnds – place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.
Reverse Single Crochet (rev.dc/sc): A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Bell:
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, work 6dc/sc into ring. 6sts
Rnd 2: [2dc/sc] to end. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1dc/sc, 2dc/sc] to end. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1dc/sc in the next 2sts, 2dc/sc] to end. 24sts
Rnd 5: [1dc/sc in the next 3sts, 2dc/sc] to end. 30sts
Rnds 6-13: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnd 14: [1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 2dc/sc] to end. 36sts
Rnd 15: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnd 16: [1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc] to end. 42sts
Rnd 17: 1dc/sc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rnd 18: AttachMetallic Gold, rev.dc/sc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Bell Handle:
Ch8, sl st to form a ring; sl st in each ch round until fasten off but leave a yarn tail for attaching to the centre top of the bell..
Bell Clanger:
Ch17, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each st along until end. Use one yarn tail to attach the bell to the end of the strip just made, thread the other yarn tail through the centre of the strip and use it to attach to the inner bell centre.
Holly (make 2):
Ch7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, * 1dc/sc in next st, 1tr/dc in the next, ch2, sl st to post of tr/dc * sl st in the next st, repeat from * to * once, sl st into first ch, ch2, sl st to first ch again, then working on other side of beginning ch; ch3, sl st to 2nd ch from hook, sl st to next st, 1dc/sc in next st, 1tr/dc in the next, fasten off but leave long yarn tail
Berries (make 2):
Ch6, 1dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook, htr/hdc in the next st, 1tr/dc in next, 1htr/hdc in the next, 1dc/sc in the next st, sl st to the first st to join, leave long yarn tail to attach.
To finish: Make a short hanging loop with metallic yarn around the bell handle.
And that’s it!
If you hook up a Little Christmas Bell Tree ornament I hope you’ll maybe give it a ‘love’ on Ravelry by saving to your favourites, tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
You may remember back in June that I had fun creating a new free 12″ (30cm) crocheted block called Encompass Me. I do love to create these afghan components as they have potential to be so many things! I’m now going to raise my own stakes by introducing a brand NEW free block for you.
Allow me to introduce to you the Poppin’ Spades Afghan Square! Inspired by a poker game the Poppin’ Square Afghan Square combines a fun combination of stitches to create a pleasing textured effect that I ‘wager’ any card player will love!
This is a great block to have up one’s sleeve to add as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or used as a pretty pot holder or cushion cover.
You could either follow suit and use colours similar to mine, which I felt fitted my theme, or you could shuffle your colours and see what top trumps you can come up with!
The following Poppin’ Spades Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern works best with four colors – referred to in this pattern as:
YARN A Dark Grey 45g / 68m YARN B Yellow 15g / 23m YARN C Light Grey 20g / 30m YARN D White 15g / 23m
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 8dc= 2 inches (5.08cm)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
FPtr/FPdc UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
PC Popcorn Stitch
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UKFront Post treble /Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn Stitch (PC): Work 5dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Changing Colour: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.
When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate long unused strands carried across the back of the work.
Pattern:
· Ch3 at the start of any rnd counts as a st.
· All ch’s are included in the st count.
Rnd 1: With A, ch5, sl st to form a ring, [ch3, 3tr/dc, ch3, sl st to ring] repeat three times. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 4 petals
Rnd 2: With B, sl st in-between any of the petals from rnd 1. Ch6 (counts as 1tr/dc + 3ch), 1tr/dc in-between the same petal, then work [ch3, 1tr/dc, ch3, 1tr/dc, in-between the next petal] repeat three times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 8sts + 4 x ch-3sps
Push the petals forward from behind the ch3-sps.
Rnd 3: Sl st to the nearest ch3-sp. Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [3tr/dc in the next ch3-sp, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the next ch3-sp], repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. 36sts / 9sts each side
Rnd 4: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 7sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch2-sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 52sts / 13sts each side
Rnd 5: Ch3, [cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr/dc of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / C and weave in ends. 68sts / 17sts each side
Rnd 6: With D, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts] repeat twice, [cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / D and weave in ends. 84sts / 21sts each side
Rnd 7: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next st, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / B and weave in ends. 100sts / 25sts each side
Rnd 8: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2,) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / B and weave in ends. 116sts
Rnd 9: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, [cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts] repeat twice, cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / D and weave in ends. 132sts / 33 sts each side
Rnd 10: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1 tr/dc in the next 31sts, 2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ) in the ch-2 sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 148sts / 37sts each side
Rnd 11: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 34sts, [(2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), 1tr/dc in the next 35sts] repeat three times, (2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. 164sts / 41sts each side
Owls are probably amongst the most liked birds ever, and chances are even if you aren’t an owl lover yourself, you’ll know at least one person that is.
I think that owl’s are very beautiful creatures and I’m delighted to say that I recently teamed up with the lovely people over at Anchor Yarns to create a new free amigurumi owl pattern just for you!
The owl is made from seven different shades of Anchor Creativa Fino 100% cotton yarn which is made from natural fibres and has a soft and silky touch to it.
If you’ve not heard of the yarn before it’s great for amigurumi’s, fashion garments or accessories. It’s made up of four strands of mercerised cotton twisted together which give it a lovely light sheen and comes in 73 solid colours in 50g ball size.
You may remember I used it previously for some tapestry crochet Christmas ornaments (free pattern here) so it was fun to use it in a bigger project.
It’s lovely and smooth on the hands and fingers to crochet with, and I used a 2.75mm ( roughly equivalent to a US size C/2) hook to create this cute little owl who measures in at 15cm / 6 inches high.
The Anchor amigurumi owl is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
If you hook up the little owl amigurumi I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #anchorowl and #anchorcrafts (so anchor yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
The lovely people over at Anchor Yarns were very kind enough recently to send me out some of their new Baby Pure Cotton yarn to play with.
Anchor Baby Pure Cotton is made from 100 % cotton, natural, combed and not mercerised (so matte not shiny) and it’s extremely soft on the hands to work with. It’s available in 24 colours which range from a soft muted powdered look or your more traditional pastel shades.
I’d say it’s totally suitable for modern fashion garments, home decor projects and amigurumi as well as quick and easy projects for baby. And it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant (love this) to be entirely safe for a new-born.
So I had a play with the yarn, and as it’s Granny Square Day tomorrow, it seemed only appropriate that I create a new free pattern for you all to enjoy! Allow me to introduce to you the Sherbet Star Granny Square.
Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. A collection of these squares put together would look great as a cushion or blanket and you can be as adventurous as you like with your colours! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.
The Sherbert Star Granny Square pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 2 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 3 mm (US size D/3)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UKTreble 3 together / US double crochet 3 together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
UK Treble 4 together / US double crochet 4 together (tr/dc4tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, * pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop * repeat from * to * three times, yarn over pull through all five loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
The Pattern works best using four colours per square; three inner colours and an outside joining colour. Use the same colour as rnd 4 for rnd 6 to bring the colours of your squares together.
Pattern:
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch8, sl st to form a ring; 4ch, 23dtr/tr into the ring, sl st top of the beginning 4ch to join. 24sts
Rnd 2: Ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, * ch4, miss st, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * until last ch4, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.
Rnd 3: With YARN B; Sl st to any ch4 loop, ch3, tr/dc3tog in same ch4-sp (counts as first tr/dc4tog), ch4, * tr/dc4tog in the next ch4-sp, ch4 * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.
Rnd 4: With YARN C; Sl st to the top of any tr/dc4tog of rnd 3; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.
Rnd 5: With YARN D; Sl st to any ch3-sp of rnd 4; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3tr/dc in the next four spaces (between htr/hdc’s of rnd 4), [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc in the next four spaces, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.
Rnd 6: With YARN C; Sl st to any missed st of rnd 1, * ch4, sl st to the top of the tr/dc4tog of rnd 3, ch4, miss next empty st of rnd 1, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * in each st around until end. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
And that’s it!
If you hook up the Sherbet Star Granny Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #SHERBERTSTARGRANNY or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I recently designed a mandala for a workshop I did at Abakhan fabrics. I needed a quick creative make and one where you could just use small bits of yarn. A mandala seems to lend itself perfectly as a little demo pattern as it’s a circle made up of different patterns and colours.
For the Mini Meditative Mandala design I used some Rico Design Ricorumi that I already had in my stash. These cute 25g balls are perfect for little projects like this mandala, though you can use any scraps that you have in your stash. Cotton yarn is also particularly good for mandalas as it shows off stitch definition and creates a nice neat, firm fabric when worked up.
There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with! I made one with some rainbow colours and I think the end result looks a bit like a sunflower! By simply changing some of the colours around you can get a whole new look! The only other thing I did differently on this version is on Rnd 6 I worked it as follows:
Rnd 6: Sl st yarn to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, * 1dc/sc in the back loop of the next 6sts, 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. (60sts)
I bought a little hanging hoop to pop it in and I now really want to make myself a mandala wall with all sorts of different sized and coloured mandalas on – just need to convince my husband how excellent it would look!
And what can you do with mandalas like these when you’ve finished them? Well you can use it as a decorative piece hanging piece of art like I have, a coaster, or even as a motif sewn onto the front of a plain cushion.
The following Medative Mandala pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 4 mm (US size G/6)
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 4tr= 2cm / 0.79inch
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 13 cm diameter (5.12inches )
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Notes: The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first treble st.
Rnd 1: With YARN A ch5 and sl st to form a ring, Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), work (1tr/dc, 1ch) eleven times into the ring, sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off YARN A (12sts + 12ch1-sps).
Rnd 2: Sl st YARN B into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), 1tr/dc in the same sp, work (1tr/dc, 1ch, 1tr/dc) in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off YARN B (24sts + 12ch1-sps).
Rnd 3: Sl st YARN A into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch3, 2tr/dc in the same sp, work 3tr/dc in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off YARN A (36sts).
Rnd 4: Sl st YARN B in between any 3tr/dc cluster of rnd 3; 1dc/sc in the same sp, * ch4, sl st in between the next 3tr/tr cluster of rnd 3. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning dc/sc to join. (12 sts + 12 x 4ch-sps)
Rnd 5: Sl st into the next ch4-sp; ch3, 5tr/dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2, * 6tr/dc in the next sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN B (48sts + 12 x 2ch-sps)
Rnd 6: Sl st YARN A to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts, * 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN A (60sts)
Rnd 7: Sl st YARN B to any dc/sc of rnd 6; ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next *1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc in the next. Repeat from * around until end. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (70sts)
And that’s it!
If you hook up the Mini Medative Mandala I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Are you ready to head to the beach with the second project of the Make it Today: Crochet Club magazine 3-part crochet-along? For the latest issue of the magazine I’ve designed a loveable and vibrant trio of sea-creatures including a sweet jellyfish and a couple of types of crab.
Following on from the fun crocheted beach hut we made for Part 1 of the crochet along may I introduce to you my fun take on a Lion’s Mane Jellyfish, an Edible Crab and a Hermit Crab – all species that you’d find along our UK shoreline.
I’m completely fascinated with sea creatures, well any animals really, and love nothing more than winding down by watching a natural history documentary (usually featuring David Attenborough) on TV with a bit of crochet at the end of the day.
The sea is such an interesting and varied place and the natural world is just a constant source of inspiration. I had fun making these projects, and I think they would work as a fun keyring for your keys if you were to add a ring and clip to the top of them.
Also in this issue there are some just delightful patterns! I love Rose the Red Panda by Sarah Louise Reed, she’s just so cute, and I also love the Colourful Cacti Plant covers by Corinne Bradd.
And there might just be a sneaky peep at what the last part 3 of the CAL is going to be below…
Part 3 of the beachy crochet along will be appearing in Issue 46 of Crochet Club magazine on Thursday July 25th – so save the date in your calendar!
If you missed the first part of the crochet-along, don’t worry, it’s available for free at topcrochetpatterns.com.
If you hook up the sea creature trio I hope you will please share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
You may remember me saying a few posts ago that I’d been busy designing some new fun amigurumi’s for Deramores well today I get to introduce you to another of the Deradog pack that’s appearing in the magazine – and this one is a bit of a favourite of mine…
It’s a little Schnauzer pupper! I love how this little doggo turned out and if you haven’t seen the cute little video that Simply Crochet have made of him (on Facebook) then you really need to check it out! I squealed when I saw it!
And I squealed again when I saw that Simply Crochet had added him on the header of their website!! Look he’s just perched on the top there! Squeek!
This little Schnauzer turned out just how I wanted him to – and I seem to know a lot of people who have Schnauzers so I was conscious that I had to do them justice.
The pattern is an exclusive to Issue 85 of Simply Crochet magazine, so only available there for now, and Deramores have put together a kit for everything you need to make him – which you can get directly from the website here.
And right now over on Facebook Simply Crochet are holding a mini competition to give this little pup a name! Just pop on over to the SCtreblemakers Facebook group where you can leave your suggested name in the comments section of the competition post.
The magazine will be picking two winning names at random who will each win the yarn pack to make the Deradog – how cool is that AND the winners will also get a £20 Deramores voucher! Names will be put up for public vote to decide the winner and the deadline for entries is 17 June 2019 (UK entrants only I’m afraid).
What do you think he / or she should be called? As well as entering the competition I hope you’ll let me know in the comments below as I’d love to hear your suggestions!
When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.
Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!
Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.
The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.
There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!
And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.
The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
BPtr/BPdc UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
FPtr/FPdc UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
USDouble Crochet 3 together / USDouble Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
UKBack Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UKFront Post treble /Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.
The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.
Pattern:
Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).
Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)
Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.
Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
The theme of the whole crochet-along is ‘beach’ and with each magazine release (Issues 44 to 46) we will be making several amigurumi patterns together that make a fun summer scene!
The patterns from the crochet-along would make a great summer play set for the kids or I also think, this particular project, would make a great bit of decor for an actual beach hut. Or if you were to add some beans to the bottom you could make it into a doorstop for a nautical themed room.
And there might just be a sneaky peep at what part 2 of the CAL is going to be below…
Part 2 of the beachy crochet along will be appearing in Issue 45 of Crochet Club magazine on Thursday June 20th – so save the date in your calendar!
This issue is particularly bright and appealing and the patterns I also love in this issue are the Rainbow the Giraffe by Sarah Louise Reed and the Sewlicious Doughnuts by Hannah Cooper.
If you hook up the Beach Hut I hope you will please share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
