Free Pattern | Flowery Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

I’m happy to share with you today, the last crochet jewellery set that I’ve created in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts. This is the third and final set of three, the first was the Geometric Jewellery set, then there was the Leaves Jewellery set, finally we have the Flowery Jewellery set.

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This pretty long necklace set is inspired by nature with two sizes of flowers that offer a touch of timeless elegance. Sitting gracefully around your neck, the necklace is created on one long beaded chain that can be made longer or shorter to compliment what you are wearing.

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (closest US size C/2) hook. I used two shades for this set; 00968 Baby Pink and 00387 Cream but it would work just as well in a single colour – and the colour combinations you could create are endless.

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need some items to make your jewellery set. I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some 40 x light pink beads if you want to make yours exactly like mine – I have a multicoloured set of beads that I used for my jewellery.

❤️ SAVE THE FLOWERY JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

I love how pretty and delicate this set turned out; you would undoubtedly have enough yarn to make a set for a special friend or family member after you have made one for yourself!

The pattern for the Flowery Jewellery Set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE FLOWERY JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

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Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Leaves Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

I’m delighted to share with you today, the next crochet jewellery set that I’ve created in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts. This is the second set of three, the first was the Geometric Jewellery set, and I’ve got one more set to share with you after today. Today’s set is called the Leaves Jewellery set and it consists of a necklace with matching earrings.

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This delicate twisted leaf set is inspired by nature with gentle curves and twists that work with each other to create some organic style beauty. It’s another set which I think would be easy to wear and would look good as a Spring set (as I’ve created) or equally as good in Autumnal colours – you have the opportunity to make something unique!

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (closest US size C/2) hook. I used two lovely Spring shades for this set; 00676 Duck Egg and 00666 Teal and as the yarn comes in 50g [191 yards /175 meters] you could make a few matching sets from the two balls.

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need some items to make your jewellery set. I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some 35 x duck egg coloured beads and 32 x teal coloured beads if you want to make yours exactly like mine – I have a multicoloured set of beads that I used for my jewellery.

❤️ SAVE THE LEAVES JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

© Anchor Crafts 2022

Crochet jewellery is such a nice quick project to work on, and I think the Leaves Jewellery set would make the perfect addition to your daily collection – or they could make a lovely project to gift to friends or family.

The pattern for the Leaves Jewellery Set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE LEAVES JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

I really enjoyed making this set and hope you will too – I’ve got one more free jewellery set to share with you soon, so make sure you check back for the details – you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

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If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Geometric Jewellery Set (with supporting video)

In collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts, I’ve got not 1, not 2, but THREE brand new free crochet patterns to share with you and they are all for something a little bit different – crochet jewellery! I’m going to share each set one by one (over the next few days) so all the relevant information for each set is easy to find. First up is the Geometric Jewellery set comprising of necklace, bracelet and earrings!

© Anchor Crafts 2022

This bold square set is inspired by art deco style of geometric shapes with strong precise lines. Extremely easy to wear as an eye-catching set or as individual pieces, this modern contemporize crochet jewellery is designed for those who want to make a statement!

❤️ SAVE THE GEOMETRIC JEWELLERY SET ON RAVELRY ❤️

For my jewellery I used Anchor Freccia 6 which is 100% mercerized cotton 3ply yarn with a 2.5mm (Closest US size C/2) hook. I used four different colours (00403 Black, 00092 Purple, 00666 Teal, 00089 Fuchsia).

If you don’t already have some jewellery finding to hand you will need to pick up somethings to add to your crochet; I have this set for earring hooks and this one for everything you need for bracelets and necklaces – you might also find some small nose pliers useful too. Finally you will need some iridescent seed beads (I have a multicoloured set) though this could be optional, but I liked the bit of added sparkle!

© Anchor Crafts 2022

Crochet jewellery make lovely quick projects as they are certainly quicker than a jumper or amigurumi as they can usually be completed in a couple of days or less!

The pattern for the geometric jewellery set is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE GEO JEWELLERY ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

And if it’s the first time you’ve ever tackled crochet jewellery then you might find the tutorial that we’ve put together for the set extra helpful.

I love how the set turned out, and hope you do too – I’ll be sharing two more free sets soon, so make sure you check back for the details – you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

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If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Pattern | Christmas Decoration Trio

If you love Christmas then you are going to love what I’ve got to share with you today! I’m delighted to tell you that, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Crafts, I’ve got a brand new FREE trio of hanging ornaments for you.

There’s a shining star, a jolly holly wreath and a twirly tree in the set to get you in the holiday spirit. They are an awesome antidote to wanting to make something, but not too big, at Christmas time!

They make a great seasonal project to make you feel festive and are great to make as gifts too.

It’s no secret that Christmas is my favourite season and one of my most favourite things to make for the holidays are Christmas Tree decorations!

I love making decorations for several reasons, they are usually quick, satisfying, great stash-busters and something you can bring out to enjoy every year!

❤️ Favourite Christmas Decoration Trio on Ravelry ❤️

I used quite traditional shades of Anchor Creativa Fino for my ornaments which is 100% mercerized cotton, 4ply natural fibre yarn. and Anchor Metallic yarn, which is a blend of viscose (80%) and metallised polyester (20%), both with a 3mm (US size 5/0) hook. Along side the sparkle of the metallic yarn I also added some 0.6 seed beads and shiny bells because I think you can never have too much twinkle at Christmas!

I’ve used Creativa Fino for lots of projects now including some other tree decorations (most of which are free patterns with links here on the blog) I really like Creativa Fino to work with, it’s a nice firm mercerised cotton which I think works particularly well for amigurumi and ornaments like these.

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The pattern for the trio is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

❤️ FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD ❤️

If you hook up any of the decorations I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Crochet Cloth Trio

A few months ago I was contacted by the folks at Performance Yarn to see if I would like to try out some of their products. Never one to shy away from trying something new, especially yarn related, I said yes please – and they kindly sent me a few of their products to try.

In the package that arrived their were a few different yarns; there were some balls of their Lollipop 100% organic cotton in a variegated shades of white, reds, browns and pinks. There was another type of yarn called Woolinen, which is a gorgeous 80% merino superwash and 20% linen each in a solid forest green and bracken brown colour, and finally some Cotton Bay which is 100% combed cotton in some lovely bright pink, yellow and white. That particular yarn caught my eye for a project that I’ve had on my mind to do for awhile now; I’ve been wanting to make some crochet cloths.

I’ve been asked a few times about good patterns for a newbie crocheters to try, especially if they don’t like the idea of making granny squares. Well crochet dishcloths are a great starter project and they are a great way to learn new stitches. As they are usually made with textured crochet stitches they are ideal for cleaning either your dishes or scrubbing your face. They make great gifts (for housewarming or for a spa bundle) and are usually quite quick to make.

The best type of yarn to use for crochet washcloths is either cotton (or a cotton blend) just like the combed Cotton Bay I was sent to try. Cotton is durable, absorbent, washable and dries quickly and fully so perfect for cleaning cloths.

The Crochet Cloth Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern below is written just in UK terms, if you aren’t sure of those you can view a handy US conversion chart here on the blog.

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Crochet Cloth Trio

Materials

Yarn Required: Approx 40g or less per cloth

Yarn Used: Performance Cotton Bay in shades:

  • 187 (Yellow)            YARN A
  • 02 (White)                YARN B
  • 34 (Pink)                  YARN C

About the yarn: 4ply / Sport weight: 120m per 50g ball .

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size D/3)

You will also need:

Gauge: 5dc = 1inch / 2.5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post double crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from back to front around the post of the stitch of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Patterns

LEMON PEEL CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
  • The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch42, 1dc in second ch from hook, [1tr in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch2, 1tr in the first st, [1dc in the next st, 1tr in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the first st, [1tr in the next st, 1dc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  32: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

EVEN MOSS STITCH  CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
  • The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
  • Do not pull your slip stitches too tight

Row 1: With Yarn B; ch42, 1htr in second ch from hook, [sl st in the next ch, 1htr in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch1, sl st on the top of the previous 1htr [ 1htr on top of the sl st of the previous row, sl st on top of the htr of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr on the top of the previous 1htr [ sl st on top of the htr of the previous row, 1 htr on top of the sl st of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  46: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

VINTAGE RASPBERRY STITCH CLOTH

  • Beginning ch any even number of stitches;
  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
  • Do not work the FPdc too tightly

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch43, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each st until end., turn. 42 sts

Row 2: Ch1, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the last 2sts, 1dc in the remaining sts, turn.

Rows 4 –  44: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

Edging for all Cloths

Do not fasten off after the last row but work 1dc evenly along each row and row end (with 3dc in each corner). Fasten off and weave in ends.

BLOCKING

Your cloths may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

And that’s it! I hope you enjoy using your new cloths!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Unicorn Baby Set

I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another FREE pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns. This time we’ve come up with a cute unicorn baby set for you, which I made, with their lovely Baby Pure Cotton yarn.

If you are not familiar with Baby Pure Cotton yarn  it’s a natural 100% cotton which is combed (so not mercerised) making it a lovely soft yarn to work with. It’s available in 29 soft powdered shades; I used 1 ball of cream (00105), 1 ball of grey (00398), 1 ball of pink (00423) and 1 ball of blue (00128) in total (though it was only a tiny bit of the pink and blue so you’d have some left over for other projects).

The yarn is ideal for babies as it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant to be entirely safe for new-borns. It’s also delicate and soft so very kind and gentle for babies sensitive skin.

I’ve used this yarn several times before (on the free XOXO baby blanket and the free Sherbert Star Granny Square) and it’s a yarn that works well with a 3mm to 3.5mm hook / US D/2 to E/4 (in this instance I used a 3mm hook).

I also used a natural wooden teething ring and a squeaker and a rattle insert to make the teether and rattle a fun bit of stimuli and discovery for baby. You will also need;

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The Unicorn Baby Set is the perfect gift for a baby shower or new baby gift! The pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD

The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

This pattern would be suitable for adventurous beginners or for crocheters new to amigurumi as they are quite simple shapes to make with just increases and decreases.

Handmade baby rattles and teethers are such a cute gift to gift a baby and new parents, but please note that it is the responsibility of the maker to ensure that toys, made using this pattern, are safe for young children and are suitably tested before gifting.

If you hook up the Baby Set I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Autumn Turn Afghan Block

I’m so excited to finally share with you a brand new free crochet block pattern. It’s called an Autumn Turn and it’s inspired by the turning of the seasons.

I love Autumn, and I love nothing better than going for a lovely walk when it’s a crisp Autumn day, where it’s not too cold, but you have to get a bit wrapped up in some woollies. Inspired by the colours and textures you might see if you are out and about this time of year the Autumn Turn Block makes for a cosy project that would look great together in a blanket or as a component in a multi-square afghan.

My Autumn Turn Crochet Block is featured in the Cozy Fall MAL by Knitting with Chopsticks and Noor’s Knits (you can read all about the MAL here). From 4th – 29th October you can purchase a crochet bundle that includes all the crochet square patterns in one handy PDF file. 50% of each purchase will be donated to Cure Childhood Cancer charity. Purchase 1 or both pattern bundles; each purchase counts as an entry to win one of the three prize bundles

Click the button below to see all the previous squares:

The bundle is only available for the duration of the event with patterns written in US terms! All squares are designed using worsted weight yarn so go check your stash and get ready to join in the fun to create some beautiful squares, or a blanket that brings joy to someone in need.

The pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

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Autumn Turn Afghan Block

Materials

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted), Scheepjes Stone Washed XL used in photographs.

  • Moonstone (841) YARN A
  • Smokey Quartz (842) YARN B
  • Coral (856)   YARN C
  • Yellow Jasper (849)  YARN D
  • Canada Jade (846)  YARN E

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

Gauge: 4dc = 3inch / 7.6cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • V-Stitch (Vst): (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in same st
  • Puff Stitch  (PF): In this pattern the puff stitches should be worked as follows; Yarn over and              insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) twice more. times (9 loops on hook)  Yarn over and pull through 8 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook to close.   
  • Spike double crochet (SPtr): The spike stitch is worked using the same steps as a treble         crochet stitch, but instead of working into the current row where you are crocheting, you drop down and work it into a row or space below the current row. You always draw the yarn up so that the top of the stitch is still exactly where the top would be if this were a normal treble.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as  a st
  • The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
  • The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.

Working in the Front / Back Loop Only (FLO / BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to  crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11 tr into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (12sts)

Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch3, 1tr in the same st, working in BLO, 2tr into each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. (24sts)

Rnd 3: Join Yarn A with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch1, [ 1dc in 2 sts, then working in FLO of rnd 1, SPtr } repeat { … } around. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (36sts; 24 dc / 12 SPtr)

Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch2, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next [1 htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the next ] repeat  { … } around. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (48sts)

Rnd 5: Join Yarn D with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch5 (Counts as 1tr + 2ch), 1tr in the same st, miss st, PF in the next st, [miss st, V-St in the next st, miss st, PF in the next st, miss st] into each st around, sl st to the top of the 3rd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. (48sts; 12PF / 12 Vsts / 24ch2-sps)

Rnd 6: Starting from the join from the previous rnd, into the next ch2 sp along; ch3, 2tr in the same sp, ch2, 3tr in the same sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd, [ (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in the next ch2-sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd ] repeat [ …} around. Fasten off D and weave in ends. (12 petals)

Rnd 7: Join Yarn E with a sl st to the top of any sl st; Ch6 (counts as 1tr + 3ch), 1dc in the next ch2 sp (of the petal tip), ch3, [ 1tr in the next sl st, ch3, 1dc in the next ch3sp, ch3] repeat [ …} around, ending with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch. Fasten off E and weave in ends. (24sts + 24 x ch3-sps)

Rnd 8: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any dc st, Ch4 (Counts as 1dtr) 2dtr, ch3, 3dtr in the same st, [ 2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, (3dtr, ch3, 3dtr) in the next st ] repeat [ …} twice more,  2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next            ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (92sts + 4 x ch3-sps)

Rnd 9: Join B with a sl st to any ch3-sp corner, ch1, [ (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in the same sp, 1dc in each st across ] repeat [ …} around until end. Sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (100sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed your turn through the season.

BLOCKING

Your square may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Anyone else get to October and get an overwhelming urge to make some pumpkins?

Not just me, phew, that’s handy 😉 because today I’m going to be sharing a brand new FREE pattern with you; my Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio.

There’s a large, medium and small pumpkin, and as they are made from Aran / Worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook they are a quick make. And they are easy too, perfect for any beginner crocheters, as they only use simple stitches, who might be looking for an autumnal project.

They are also incredibly satisfying and sort of addictive to make, I already want to make some more to create a whole pumpkin patch!

For my baskets I used Stylecraft Special Aran which I had in my stash. I chose three natural looking colours of Spice, Camel and Pistachio but you could really play with your colours to match your home decor. They would be perfect for Autumnal table settings, around the mantle, or for a welcoming doorway – after all what’s October without a few pumpkins!

The Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Pin this project for later:

Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Aran / Worsted); Stylecraft Special Aran used in photographs.

  • 1 ball Spice  (Shade  1711) YARN A
  • 1 ball Camel  (Shade 1420)  YARN B
  • 1 ball Pistachio (Shade 1822)       YARN C
  • 1 ball Dark Brown (Shade 1004)  YARN D

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

Finished Sizes:   

  • Large pumpkin: Approx: 15cm (5.9″) high / 52 cm (20″) circumference
  • Medium pumpkin: Approx: 12cm (4.7″) high / 44cm (17.7″) circumference
  • Small pumpkin: Approx: 10cm (3.9″) high / 35cm (13.7″) circumference

Gauge: 5dc= 1.4 inches / 3 .5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Decreases in this pattern are worked as an invisible decrease in the following mannerInsert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.  Working a decrease in this way helps reduce  appearance of holes that can be made when working a decrease the normal way.

Pattern Notes

  • Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice at tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
  • Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a  spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V               farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as  instructed.

Pattern

Large Pumpkin Body

Rnd 1: With A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 12sts

Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] around. 18 sts

Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc] around. 24sts

Rnd 5: [1dc in next 3sts, 2dc] around. 30sts

Rnd 6: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc] around. 36sts

Rnd 7: [1dc in next 5sts, 2dc] around. 42sts

Rnd 8: [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around. 48sts

Rnd 9: [1dc in next 7sts, 2dc] around. 54sts

Rnd 10: [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around. 60sts

Rnd 11: [1dc in next 9sts, 2dc] around. 66sts

Rnd 12: 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 10sts, 2dc] around until the last 5sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 72sts

Rnds 13-27: Dc around

Rnd 28: [1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog] around. 66sts

Rnd 29: [1dc in next 9sts, dc2tog] around. 60sts

Rnd 30: [1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog] around. 54sts

Rnd 31: [1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog] around. 48sts

Rnd 32: [1dc in next 6sts, dc2tog] around. 42sts

Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go.

Rnd 33: [1dc in next 5sts, dc2tog] around. 36sts

Rnd 34: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 30sts

Rnd 35: [1dc in next 3sts, dc2tog] around. 24sts

Rnd 36: [1dc in next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18sts

Rnd 37: [1dc, dc2tog] around. 12sts

Rnd 38: [Dc2tog] around. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Large Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Large Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 9: With B; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 54sts

Rnd 10: 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around until the last 4sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 60sts

Rnds 11-23: Dc around

Rnds 24 – 32: Repeat rows 30 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Rnd 1: With D; working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 10sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Medium Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 10sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Small Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 7: With C; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 42sts

Rnd 8: 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around until the last 3sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 48sts

Rnds 9-19: Dc around

Rnds 20 – 26: Repeat rows 32 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts

Small Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 5: With D; make as the Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Small Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnd 1: With D; ; working into a magic ring, 8dc. 8sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Making up

For each pumpkin:

1. Take the length of yarn tail, and wrap your yarn around  your pumpkin twice; taking it through the centre of the pumpkin and pulling it taught to shape your pumpkin into segments, tie in a  secure knot at the top.

2. Repeat step 1 twice more in equal segments (creating six segments in total).

3. Sew the stalk bottom onto the bottom of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the  bottom.

4. Sew the stem onto the top of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the top.

And that’s it! Enjoy your gourd-eous pumpkins!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! 

And if you haven’t had enough of pumpkins yet then you might like my Chunky Pumpkins that I made for my Deramores Designer Shop last year. They are made in a totally different way, with a different stitch using chunky yarn and a bigger hook so you’d get to try something new!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Abundance and Heritage

We have now reached the finale of our four week crochet-along. We can now see in our sights the end of the harvest as we draw into September and we can enjoy a final crochet community celebration as we finish our Lammas Day shawls.

Although we are on the last part of our CAL, if you are joining in at a later date you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page where all the CAL posts are one place. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link below).

This week we will continue our decreases as we till the earth by harrowing and ploughing the fields we have sown, and gather together in the abundance of the harvest. We will have a bit of crochet heritage with the familiar treble cluster (as seen in a traditional granny square) and think of our cluster of stitches as also representing a time where every available man, woman and child, was needed to get the crops in.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 3;

Row 134: (RS): Starting with a decrease;Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 59sts

Row 135: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 58sts

Row 136: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 57sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 137: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eleven more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 56sts

Rows 138 – 139: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 55 / 54sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 140: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 53sts

Rows 141 – 142: Repeat rows 135 – 136, turn. 52 / 51sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 143: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 50sts

Rows 144 – 145: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 49 / 48sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 146: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat nine more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 47sts

Rows 147 – 148: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 46 / 45sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 149: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eight more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 44sts

Rows 150 – 151: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 41 / 42sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 152: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 41sts

Rows 153 – 154: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 38 / 39sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern. The ch4 in the pattern counts as a dtr;

Row 155: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, miss next st, (3dtr in the next st, miss 2sts) repeat nine more times across the row, 3dtr in the next st, miss the next st, 1dtr in the next st, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 38sts

Row 156: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp before the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 37sts

Row 157: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp before the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat ten more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 36sts

Row 158: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 3tr in the last st, turn. 35sts

Row 159: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, (3dtr in the sp between the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 34sts

Row 160: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last st, turn. 33sts

Row 161: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp after the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, turn. 32sts

Row 162: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp between the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat eight more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 31sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 163: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 30sts

Row 164: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 29sts

Rows 165 – 189: Repeat rows 163 – 164, turn. 4sts

Row 190: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next st, turn. 3sts

Row 191: Ch1, dc3tog. 1st

Fasten off with a sl st, weave in all ends.

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

Blocking your shawl:

The design of this wrap will benefit from being wet blocked;

  1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
  1. Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board
  1. Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g. check the height and width are correct)
  1. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.

If you were wondering what I use to block my shawls I use this simple foam playmats to pin my shawls down, I swear by these Knitpro blockers and I also use these T-pins for lacy bits and corner points.

Written Pattern Link:

Now that we are on the last part of the CAL a PDF document of the pattern has been put together by Anchor Yarns which you can find as a free download on their website here.

And that’s it!

Your shawl is now finished! Maybe to celebrate you can go break bread somewhere nice wearing your new shawl.

Support:

You can still get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – I can’t wait to see your finished shawls.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Edited: Correction made to row 119 (7 October 2021)

Can you believe it’s nearly the end of August? I suppose the summer can be a busy time which makes the weeks fly by, and it means it’s time for Week 3 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

I hope you are ready to start Part 3 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and start to watch our spikes of wheat become heavy with their ears of grain.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Grain St (Grst): [1 puff st, ch3, 1 puff st] in the same stitch
  • Puff St: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop) once more.  Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.  Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch (the ch1 does not count in the st count).

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that will now decrease with each row; decreases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the decrease side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark decrease side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check st counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning ch’s on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Row 98: (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the same st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 95sts

Row 99: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 94sts

Row 100: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 93sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 101: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 92sts

Rows 102 – 103: Repeat row 100 and 99, turn. 91 / 90sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 104: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 89sts

Rows 105 – 106: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 88 / 87sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 107: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 86sts

Rows 108 – 109: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 85 / 84sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 110: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 83sts

Rows 111 – 112: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 82 / 81sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 113: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 5sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 80sts

Rows 114 – 115: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 79 / 78sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 116: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 77sts

Rows 117 – 118: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 76 / 75sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating five row stitch pattern;

Note: In the pattern where it says to work into the next ch3-sp, this is the space in the middle of the Grst

Row 119 (WS): Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (9 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 120: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (9 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 121: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, tr2tog, turn. (9 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 122: Ch1, tr2tog, 4tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 71sts

Row 123: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 70sts

Row 124: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (Grst, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 125: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (8 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 126: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 127: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the next 1tr’s of the previous row, tr2tog. 1tr in the last st, turn. 66sts

Row 128: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in each st across the row, turn. 65sts

Row 129: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, 1tr in the next 4sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (7 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 130: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 6sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (7 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 131: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row,1tr in the next 2sts, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (6 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 132: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 61sts

Row 133: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 60sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 3 completed! We will be continuing with our decreases next week to finish off our shawl.

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Thank you for crocheting along with me!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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