Hey folks, I’ve got another brand new FREE crochet pattern to share with you today that I’ve designed in collaboration with Woolbox. Fresh from swinging through the trees in the Congo, it’s a cute and cuddly crochet Golden Monkey!
If you’ve not heard about Woolbox before they are a new online yarn company with a wealth of knitting and crochet knowledge. With the help of different designers they are beginning to develop some FREE patterns of their own using their own brand of yarn – and I’m delighted to be helping them out with that.
You may remember I shared the Blue Rhino, and Pink Elephant amigurumi and now we’ve got a third ‘Jungle Friend’ crochet pattern to make.
For my Golden Monkey I used Woolbox Imagine Classic DK (Double Knit / Light Worsted). If you aren’t familiar with this yarn it’s a smoothly spun 100% anti–pilling acrylic; anti-pilling just means that any project you make with this yarn should not ‘pill’ (go bobbly) over time.
Woolbox Imagine Classic DK is available in 24 different colours (and they are adding shades all the time), and I just used three different colours for my Monkey; Creme Caramel (a soft browny-mustard colour), Sunflower Yellow (a lovely bright lemon yellow), and Coconut Cream with a 3.5mm (US size E/4) hook.
The pattern is available for FREE from the Woolbox as just the digital download for the pattern or as a yarn kit – I’ve added the links below:
If you make up the Woolbox Golden Monkey I hope you will share your finished project photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram), or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.
Hey folks, I’ve got another brand new FREE crochet pattern to share with you today that I’ve designed in collaboration with Woolbox. Fresh from a stomp on the African savanna, it’s a cute and cuddly crochet pink elephant!
If you’ve not heard about Woolbox before they are a new online yarn company with a wealth of knitting and crochet knowledge. With the help of different designers they are beginning to develop some FREE patterns of their own using their own brand of yarn – and I’m delighted to be helping them out with that.
You may remember, in September, I shared the free Blue Rhino amigurumi and now we’ve got a new ‘Jungle Friend’ crochet pattern to make. And there’s one more design yet to come, can you guess what animal it might be?
For my Pink Elephant I used Woolbox Imagine Classic DK (Double Knit / Light Worsted). If you aren’t familiar with this yarn it’s a smoothly spun 100% anti–pilling acrylic that comes in an array of beautiful shades. Anti-pilling technology just means that any project you make with this yarn should not ‘pill’ (go bobbly) over time.
Woolbox Imagine Classic DK is available in 20 different colours, and I just used three different colours for my Elephant; Soft Heather (a pretty purplish shade), Raspberry Jam (a lovely bright pink), and Pure White with a 3.5mm (US size E/4) hook.
The pattern is available for FREE from the Woolbox as just the digital download for the pattern or as a yarn kit – I’ve added the links below:
If you make up the Woolbox Pink Elephant I hope you will share your finished project photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram), or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m delighted to share with you today a brand new FREE crochet patterns that I’ve designed in collaboration with Woolbox. Recovering from a recent romp in the Serengeti, it’s a cute and cuddly crochet blue rhino!
If you’ve not heard about Woolbox before they are a new online yarn company with a wealth of knitting and crochet knowledge. With the help of different designers they are beginning to develop some FREE patterns of their own using their own brand of yarn – and I’m delighted to be helping them out with that.
You may remember that back in May this year I created a British Bulldog and now we’ve got a new cuddly companion perfect for any wildlife lover. I let you into a little secret too; there just might be a few more ‘Jungle Friends’ patterns from me coming to join this little guy.
For my the Rhino I used Woolbox Imagine Classic DK. If you aren’t familiar with this yarn it’s a smoothly spun 100% anti–pilling acrylic that comes in an array of beautiful shades. Anti-pilling, in a nutshell, just means that any project you make with this yarn, like an amigurumi should not go bobbly over time.
If you make up the Woolbox Blue Rhino I hope you will share your finished project photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram), or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m very excited to announce that I’ve got a brand new FREE crochet pattern available in collaboration with the lovely people from Woolbox. Introducing the Crocheted Coronation British Bulldog – The latest addition to the WoolBox family.
Woolbox is a new online yarn company with a wealth of knitting and crochet knowledge. They are beginning to develop some patterns of their own, with the help of different designers, using their own brand of yarn ‘Woolbox’ and I’m delighted to be helping them out with that.
The British Bulldog has often been used to embody British values and has been used in propaganda as a of Churchillian courage and perseverance. Though England doesn’t have a national dog per se, the British Bulldog is often associated with our country as the breed is thought to have originated in the British Isles.
To celebrate the Coronation of HRH The King’s Coronation I’ve worked with WoolBox to bring to you our Union Jack dressed British Bulldog.
For my little Bulldog I used Woolbox Imagine Classic DK with a 3.25mm hook. If you aren’t familiar with this yarn it is a 100% acrylic yarn that is super soft and has been developed with anti-pilling technology.
In a nutshell this just means that any project you make with this yarn, whether it’s a garment or a toy, should avoid going bobbly or thinner over time.
Woolbox Imagine Classic DK is available in 20 different colours, and I just used 5 different colours for my bulldog.
The pattern is available for FREE from the Woolbox as just the digital download or as a kit – I’ve added the links below.
If you make up a Coronation British Bulldog I hope you will share your finished project photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram), or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Welcome to the last part of our Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching your Enchanted Wood projects come together.
Edit: 01/10/23: Corrections made to rnds 3, 5- 7. Extremely sorry for any confusion caused.
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far up to Part 7, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So are you are ready to crack on with the very LAST part of the CAL! This week we are going to be surrounding our Enchanted Wood with a border of three dimensional beech leaves.
Leaves are key to life on earth, they need carbon dioxide that humans and animals breathe out, and they return oxygen, which we need to breathe in! What a great way to finish off our blankets.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 500g / 1475m / 1365yds or 5 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Spring Green (7126) – YARN J or alternatively 5 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Sage (1725) – YARN H
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 8 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 122cm (48”) wide x 127cm (50”) long
In Special DK: 122cm (48”) wide x 130cm (51”) long
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post two together (FP2tog): Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
V Stitch (V-St): tr, ch1, tr in the same st
Reverse double crochet (rev.dc): A reverse double crochet stitch is worked the same as a regular double crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
[[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
PATTERN – PART 8
Part 8 creates the border around the whole of your blanket to bring it together.
The ch3 counts as the first tr st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
Rnd 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN J to the post of the last dc st of Part 7 (top right hand corner), ch6 (counts as tr + ch3 here and throughout), 1tr in each st across (185sts), [ turn your work, ch3, place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then working across Part 5 work 1tr in each st or ch (123sts), then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7 (211sts) ], ch3, then working along the top of Part 7, work 1tr in each st (185sts), repeat [ … ] once more, working only 17sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 792sts (Side 1 / 3 = 185sts, Side 2 / 4 = 211sts)
Rnd 2: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 12sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 12sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 9sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 9sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 800sts / 48 FPtr / 744 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 2:
Rnd 3: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 13sts, [ (FPtr, ch1, FPtr) on the post of the previous rnd, FPtr, BPtr in 15sts ] repeat nine times, FPtr, ch1, FPtr, BPtr in 13sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 10sts, [ (FPtr, ch1, FPtr) on the post of the previous rnd FPtr, BPtr in 15sts ] repeat eleven times, FPtr, ch1, FPtr, BPtr in 10sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 856sts / 96 FPtr / 752 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 3:
Rnd 4: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 14sts, FPtr on the next FPtr of the previous rnd (here and throughout), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 14sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 11sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 11sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 960sts / 96 FPtr / 760 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 4:
Rnd 5: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 15sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 12sts [ FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 12sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp,repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,064sts / 192 FPtr / 768 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 5:
Rnd 6: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 16sts, [ FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, FPtr on the V-St, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the V-St, [FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, [ BPtr in 15sts, [FPtr on the next FPtr ] twice, FPtr on the next tr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr, [[FPtr on the next FPtr] twice ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 16sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 13sts, [[FPtr on the next FPtr] three times, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPtr on the next FPtr] three times, [ BPtr in 15sts, [FPtr on the next FPtr ] three times, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPtr on the next FPtr] twice ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 13sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,168sts / 288 FPtr / 776 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 6:
On this next round you will miss the ch1-sp in the centre of each leaf;
Rnd 7: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 17sts, [FPtr2tog (on the first two FPtr of the previous rnd), FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog on the next two FPtr of the previous rnd, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 17sts, tr, ch3, tr, in the ch ch3-sp, [ BPtr in 14sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog, BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog, ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 14sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,080sts / 288 FPtr / 784 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 7:
Rnd 8: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 18sts, [FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, FPtr2tog, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog ] repeat twelve times, BPtr in 15sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 992sts / 192 FPtr / 792 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 8:
Rnd 9: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 19sts, FPtr2tog twice [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog twice ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 19sts, tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, [[FPtr2tog twice, BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog twice ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 16sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 904sts / 96 FPtr / 800 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 9:
Rnd 10: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 20sts, FPtr2tog [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 20sts, tr, ch3, tr in the ch3-sp, BPtr in 17sts, [[FPtr2tog, BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 17sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 864sts / 48 FPtr / 808 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 10:
Rnd 11: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 21sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 21sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 18sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 18sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 872sts / 48 FPtr / 816 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 12: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch3 2tr in the same sp, BPtr in each st around, working (3tr) in each corner, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 888sts / 876 BPtr / 12 tr / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 13: Ch1, reverse double crochet around whole outer edge of the blanket. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the st indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post Double Crochet two together (FPdc2tog): Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Reverse single crochet (rev.sc): A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
V Stitch (V-St): dc ch1, dc in the same st
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
[[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
PATTERN – PART 8
Part 8 creates the border around the whole of your blanket to bring it together.
The ch3 counts as the first dc st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
Rnd 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN J to the post of the last sc st of Part 7 (top right hand corner), ch6 (counts as dc + ch3 here and throughout), 1dc in each st across (185sts), [ turn your work, ch3, place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then working across Part 5 work 1dc in each st or ch (123sts), then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7 (211sts) ], ch3, then working along the top of Part 7, work 1dc in each st (185sts), repeat [ … ] once more, working only 17sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 792sts (Side 1 / 3 = 185sts, Side 2 / 4 = 211sts)
Rnd 2: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 12sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 12sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 9sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 9sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 800sts / 48 FPdc / 744 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 2:
Rnd 3: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 13sts, [ (FPdc, ch1, FPdc) on the post of the previous rnd, FPdc, BPdc in 15sts ] repeat nine times, FPdc, ch1, FPdc, BPdc in 13sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 10sts, [ (FPdc, ch1, FPdc) on the post of the previous rnd FPdc, BPdc in 15sts, FPdc, ch1, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, FPdc, ch1, FPdc, BPdc in 10sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 856sts / 96 FPdc / 752 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 3:
Rnd 4: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 14sts, FPdc on the next FPdc of the previous rnd (here and throughout), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 14sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 11sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 11sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 960sts / 96 FPdc / 760 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 4:
Rnd 5: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 15sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 12sts [ FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 12sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp,repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,064sts / 192 FPdc / 768 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 5:
Rnd 6: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 16sts, [ FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, FPdc on the V-St, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the V-St, [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, [ BPdc in 15sts, [FPdc on the next FPdc ] twice, FPdc on the next dc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc, [[FPdc on the next FPdc] twice ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 16sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 13sts, [[FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, [ BPdc in 15sts, [FPdc on the next FPdc ] three times, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 13sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,168sts / 288 FPdc / 776 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 6:
On this next round you will miss the ch1-sp in the centre of each leaf;
Rnd 7: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 17sts, [FPdc2tog (on the first two FPdc of the previous rnd), FPdc in the next 4sts, FPdc2tog on the next two FPdc of the previous rnd, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc in the next 4sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 17sts, dc, ch3, dc, in the ch ch3-sp, [ BPdc in 14sts, FPdc2tog, in the next 4sts, , FPdc2tog, BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc, FPdc2tog, ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 14sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 1,080sts / 288 FPdc / 784 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rows 1– 7:
Rnd 8: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 18sts, [FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, FPdc2tog, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog ] repeat twelve times, BPdc in 15sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 992sts / 192 FPdc / 792 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 8:
Rnd 9: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 19sts, FPdc2tog twice [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog twice ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 19sts, dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, [[FPdc2tog twice, BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog twice ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 16sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 904sts / 96 FPdc / 800 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 9:
Rnd 10: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 20sts, FPdc2tog [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 20sts, dc, ch3, dc in the ch3-sp, BPdc in 17sts, [[FPdc2tog, BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 17sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 864sts / 48 FPdc / 808 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 10:
Rnd 11: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 21sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 21sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 18sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 18sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 872sts / 48 FPdc / 816 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 12: Sl st to ch3-sp, ch3 2dc in the same sp, BPdc in each st around, working (3dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 888sts / 876 BPdc / 12 dc / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 13: Ch1, reverse single crochet around whole outer edge of the blanket. Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! We are all finished, I hope you have enjoyed the last 8 weeks of the CAL, I know I’ve thoroughly enjoyed seeing your projects go. I’m aiming to do a round up post of finished blankets that you’ve made, in about a month, to give people time to finish their blankets so please do keep posting those photos!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, the Dýnami Cable Earwarmer. A great first crochet cable project to create a quick cosy headband.
The idea for this headband came about all because of my friend Sharon who is currently raising money for MIND as she prepares to run the London Marathon (you can watch some of her prep YouTube videos here). As part of her fundraising she was doing a few coffee morning sales, where cake and crochet were combined, and a few of her crochet friends were going to donate some crochet items to help her raise some funds.
As we chatted about what we could provide I got to thinking about headbands / ear warmers, something that runners could potentially use, and plus it’s a cute and cosy accessory for us non-runners out there! So I put my name down for some ear warmers and decided to come up with a brand new design in honour of Sharon’s venture.
The name of the headband ‘dýnami’ comes from the word ‘strength’ in Greek as I was thinking about marathons and having that stamina to run 26.2 miles (42km) – I couldn’t do it so thank goodness for people like Sharon who have the focus and dedication! Plus MIND is a great charity to raise money for, I’m sure everyone knows someone who’s life has been touched by mental health challenges – I know mine has.
So as I’m on a bit of a yarn ban this year (because I seriously have enough yarn to fill a shop) instead of buying I went stash diving for these headbands. I knew I wanted something wool, as wool has the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature, which I thought would be useful if you did want to use the headband whilst out for a run.
In my ample stash I found a load of different colours of Drops LIMA Mix. I actually have no idea what my original plan was for the yarn, as they were a few random different colours, but it was pretty much exactly what I was looking for to create the ear warmers. I would suggest that a solid shade yarn, rather than a variegated yarn, would work best for this patterns so you can see the textured cables.
I actually don’t know why I haven’t used the Drops LIMA Mix before now because it’s LOVELY! I thoroughly enjoyed crocheting with it. The DK (8ply / Light Worsted) yarn comes in 50g (100m / 109yds) balls and is a squishy mix of 65% Wool and 35% Alpaca which is beautifully soft and pleasant to work with.
Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.
Before we get to the pattern if you would like to contribute to Sharon’s fundraising for MIND, before 23 April 2023, then you can on her specific charity page although this pattern is free, if you purchase the PDF pattern before this date any income generated I will pass over for MIND too.
The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Materials
Skill Level: 3 – Intermediate
Yarn: Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light),
50g (100m) Drops LIMA mix
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
A single 50g ball will make 1 adult ladies sized headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.
Finished Sizes:
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Front post double treble (FPdtr):
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Pattern Notes
The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st
Pattern
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 50g / 100m / 109yds of Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light)
Yarn Used in photos:
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades:
Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
About the yarn:
Drops Lima Mix; DK; 50g / 100m / 109yds65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
A single 50g ball will make one headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G/6).
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished size: Guidance provided for adjusting the headband for different sizes given in the pattern.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
PATTERN NOTES
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
PATTERN
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / and last st of a row.
Row 1 (RS): Ch17, 1htr in the 4th ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, miss 2sts from the last st worked on current row and 4 sts two rows below [FPdtr around the post of the next 2sts, then working back over the FPdtr you’ve just made, FPdtr in the two missed sts], 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, 1htr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, [FPdtr around the post of the 4sts (the FPdtr) two rows below, 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Repeat rows 2 – 5 for the pattern;
Approximate measurements given below for different sizes, however for best fit measure the head in question and work until the band measures 1cm / 0.4 inches smaller than required as the headband will stretch.
For sizes greater than the largest size please note you will need more than one ball of yarn.
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Fasten off the yarn on your last row but leave a long yarn tail attached.
FINISHING
Join the two ends of the headband together with the right sides facing each other.
Loosely slip stitch along the row, pushing your hook through both layers of the headband for each stitch, so that you create a seam.
Thread the tail of the yarn through a darning needle and sew a couple of stitches before trimming off the excess. Turn the headband right side out.
And that’s it, enjoy your new headband!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
How are you all doing? Are you ready for Part 7 of the CAL? That means after this part there is only one last section to go! We all of a sudden seemed to have gotten here quickly don’t you think?
I’ve so enjoyed watching the mushrooms develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So are you are ready to crack on with part 7! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be using textured stitches to create the effect of tree bark and some branches.
Did you know that each tree species has its own unique bark pattern. Did you know that aspirin was originally developed from willow bark. Tree bark is clever stuff that protects the living tree from the environment, disease and insect attacks – so it, along with some branches, deserves a place in the CAL.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 160g / 400m / 437yds or 2 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Thyme (7156) – YARN I or alternatively 2 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Meadow (1065) – YARN G
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 7 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 109cm (43”) wide x 109cm (43”) long
In Special DK: 112.5cm (44”) wide x 112.5cm (44”) long
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Triple Treble (FPttr): Yarn over 3 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 4 times.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
[[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Alpine stitch: 4-row pattern repeat where tr / FPtr are alternated with rows of dc. When working an Alpine Stitch FPtr you will work two rows below directly onto the post of the indicated tr st; you will never work in a double crochet row when working an FPtr st. When you work a tr following a FPtr st you will work on the dc in the row below as normal.
When you complete your FPtr make sure you pull up long loops on your hook when completing to adjust the row height accordingly.
Due to the way the pattern is made, in the ‘alpine section’ one row of tr / FPtr will start with (tr, FPtr) and end with (FPtr / tr), and the following row of tr / FPtr will start and end with 2tr
When you make a FPtr two rows below there will be an unused st left behind the FPtr. You will not work in this st; it should be skipped when you are making the next st.
PATTERN – PART 7
You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL; with the right side facing you will work directly on part 6.
You will be making FPtr / FPttr branches interspersed with blocks of Alpine St (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St).
A FPttr will be worked on the indicated post st, 4 rows below.
A FPtr will always be worked 2 rows below (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St.)
A tr will always be worked on the current row
The ch3 counts as the first tr st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN I to the top of the last st worked. Ch3, BPtr in the next 183sts across the row until the last st, 1tr in the remaining st, turn, 2 tr / 183 BPtr / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the next 7sts, [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in next 9sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in 5sts ], repeat until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 163 dc / 185 sts
See example below which shows the first 23 sts (here and through out) of rows 1 – 2:
The first 7sts are the ‘branches’ thereafter worked over 5sts (until the last 7sts). The ‘Bark’ is the Alpine St section which are repeated over 9sts.
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in 6sts, [[ ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next st, [FPtr in the next st, 1 tr in the next st] repeat four more times, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 5 sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1tr in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 44 FPtr / 119 tr. / 185 sts
See example below of rows 1 – 3:
Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below, FPttr on the next st, 1tr on the next st on current row, 1 FPtr on the next st, 1tr on the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, [[ ch1, miss ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ FPtr in the next st, 1 tr in the next ] repeat twice, 1 tr in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, miss 2sts four rows below, FPttr in the next st, 1 tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr ]] repeat ten times, 1tr in each remaining 2sts, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 tr / 45 FPtr / 24 FPttr / 185 sts
See example below of rows 1 – 5:
Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, FPtr in next st, 1tr in next 2sts [[ ch1, miss ch1-sp, [ 1tr in next st, FPtr in next st ] repeat 3 times more, 1tr in next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1tr in next 2sts, 1FPtr in next st, 1tr in the next 2sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1tr in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 107 tr / 56 FPtr / 185 sts
Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn
See example below of rows 1 – 8:
Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below [[ FPttr around the next st , 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ 1FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st ]. repeat twice more, 1 tr in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp ]] repeat ten times more, miss 2sts four rows below, FPttr around the next st, 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st , 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, FPttr in the next st four rows below, 1 tr in the last 2sts. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 tr / 45 FPtr / 24 FPttr / 185sts.
See example below of rows 1 – 9:
Rows 10 – 17: Repeat rows 6—9 twice
Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 19: Repeat row 7, turn
Row 20: Ch1, 1dc in each st, including each ch-sp, until end. Fasten off and weave in ends. 185s ts
Reattach YARN I (or G) to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1—20. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over 3 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 4 times.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
[[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Alpine stitch: 4-row pattern repeat where dc / FPdc are alternated with rows of sc. When working an Alpine Stitch FPdc you will work two rows below directly onto the post of the indicated dc st; you will never work in a double crochet row when working an FPdc st. When you work a dc following a FPdc st you will work on the sc in the row below as normal.
When you complete your FPdc make sure you pull up long loops on your hook when completing to adjust the row height accordingly.
Due to the way the pattern is made, in the ‘alpine section’ one row of dc / FPdc will start with (dc, FPdc) and end with (FPdc / dc), and the following row of dc / FPdc will start and end with 2dc
When you make a FPdc two rows below there will be an unused st left behind the FPdc. You will not work in this st; it should be skipped when you are making the next st.
SCHEMATIC – PART 7
PATTERN – PART 7
You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL with the right side facing you will work directly on part 6.
You will be making FPdc / FPdtr branches interspersed with blocks of Alpine St (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St).
A FPdtr will be worked on the indicated post st, 4 rows below.
A FPdc will always be worked 2 rows below (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St.)
A dc will always be worked on the current row
The ch3 counts as the first dc st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN I to the top of the last st worked. Ch3, BPdc in the next 183sts across the row until the last st, 1dc in the remaining st, turn, 2 dc / 183 BPdc / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in the next 7sts, [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in next 9sts, ch1, miss st, 1sc in 5sts ], repeat until the last 2sts, 1sc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 163 sc / 185 sts
See example below which shows the first 23 sts (here and through out) of rows 1 – 2:
The first 7sts are the ‘branches’ thereafter worked over 5sts (until the last 7sts). The ‘Bark’ is the Alpine St section which are repeated over 9sts.
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in 6sts, [[ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st, [FPdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st] repeat four more times, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 5 sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 44 FPdc / 119 dc. / 185 sts
See example below of rows 1 – 3:
Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below, FPdtr on the next st, 1dc on the next st on current row, 1 FPdc on the next st, 1dc on the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, [[ ch1, miss ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ FPdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next ] repeat twice, 1 dc in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, miss 2sts four rows below, FPdtr in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr ]] repeat ten times, 1dc in each remaining 2sts, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 dc / 45 FPdc / 24 FPdtr / 185 sts
See example below of rows 1 – 5:
Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, FPdc in next st, 1dc in next 2sts [[ ch1, miss ch1-sp, [ 1dc in next st, FPdc in next st ] repeat 3 times more, 1dc in next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1dc in next 2sts, 1FPdc in next st, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 107 dc / 56 FPdc / 185 sts
Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn
See example below of rows 1 – 8:
Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below [[ FPdtr around the next st , 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ 1FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st ]. repeat twice more, 1 dc in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp ]] repeat ten times more, miss 2sts four rows below, FPdtr around the next st, 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st , 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, FPdtr in the next st four rows below, 1 dc in the last 2sts. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 dc / 45 FPdc / 24 FPdtr / 185sts.
See example below of rows 1 – 9:
Rows 10 – 17: Repeat rows 6—9 twice
Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 19: Repeat row 7, turn
Row 20: Ch1, 1sc in each st, including each ch-
sp, until end. Fasten off and weave in ends. 185s ts
Reattach YARN I to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1—20. Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! Part 7 completed! We’ve now just got the border left to complete and we are all finished!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
How are you all doing? Are you ready for Part 6 of the CAL?
I’ve so enjoyed watching the pinecones develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So let’s get down to Part 6 then shall we, this week we are going to be adding some mushrooms to our Enchanted Wood.
I always thing that mushrooms are a fascinating and diverse feature of woodlands, many species can be spotted all year round and there are hundreds of different types. Fungi are the main decomposers the woods breaking down dead plants, basically it feeds itself by digesting organic matter which it then returns as nutrients to the soil. Clever little things, so I thought they needed a place in our blanket.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 160g / 400m / 437yds or 2 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Celery (7155) – YARN H or alternatively 2 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Pistachio (1822) – YARN F
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 6 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 84cm (33”) wide x 104cm (40.9”) long
In Special DK: 85.5cm (33.5”) wide x 103.5cm (40.5”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Seven Treble Cluster (7trCl): Work 7 trebles into one stitch.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 6
PATTERN – PART 6
You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;
With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1tr in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1tr in the corner of Part 4, BPtr in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1tr in the corner of Part 4, 2tr around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 tr / 123 BPtr / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 139 tr / 46 x ch1-sps
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in each st across, turn. 185 tr
Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the
next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 2sts. 70 tr / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF
Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next tr] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, 1dc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7trCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 dc
Row 6: Ch6 (counts as tr + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre tr of the 7trCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1htr in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre of the 7trCl, miss 3sts, 1tr in the last st, turn. 2tr / 22 htr / 23 dc / 46 x ch3-sps
Row 7: Ch3, [ 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next htr ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the last st, turn. 185 tr
Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7
Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Seven Double Crochet Cluster (7dcCl): Work 7 double crochet into one stitch.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 6
PATTERN – PART 6
You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;
· With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
· We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
· The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
· The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
· You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
· If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1dc in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1dc in the corner of Part 4, BPdc in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1dc in the corner of Part 4, 2dc around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 dc / 123 BPdc / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 139 dc / 46 x ch1-sps
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in each st across, turn. 185 dc
Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts. 70 dc / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF
Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next dc] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, 1sc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7dcCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 sc
Row 6: Ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre dc of the 7dcCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1hdc in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre of the 7dcCl, miss 3sts, 1dc in the last st, turn. 2dc / 22 hdc / 23 sc / 46 x ch3-sps
Row 7: Ch3, [ 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next hdc ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the last st, turn. 185 dc
Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7
Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! Part 6 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your mushrooms sprout from Parts 4 and 5!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Well we’ve now passed that half way point in the CAL! It’s part of 5 this week, then there are only 3 parts of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along left!
I’ve so enjoyed watching the pinecones develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So are you are ready to get started on Part 5! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be adding some acorns onto the other sections we’ve already created.
Acorns or oaknuts are a big part of the woods we go for walks in. I love how these seeds come with their own little caps which I used to believe were worn by fairies. They are another thing that are fun to collect on woodland walks which meant that it was another element that I had to include in our CAL.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 2 x 70g / 175m / 191yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Cameo (Shade 4287) -YARN F and 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Nutmeg (Shade 7147) -YARN G or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Saffron (Shade 1081) – use as YARN F and G
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 4 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 66.5cm (26”) wide x 104cm (40.9”) long.
In Special DK: 66.5cm (26”) wide x 107cm (42.5”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
5 Treble Bobble (5Bob): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, [ yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook in same st ], and repeat […} four times (six loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
SCHEMATIC – PART 5
PATTERN – PART 5
You will build part 5 onto the right side of the CAL;
With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 4, then across part 3, then on the row ends of part 4 again.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 4.
The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
The chain stitches in rows 4—5 do count as a stitch.
Row 1: Sl st to join YARN F around the post of the last st of Part 4; ch3, 1tr in the same st,[2tr around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] eleven times more, 1tr in the end post-sp of Part 3, BPtr in the next 69sts, 1tr in the end post-sp of Part 3, [2tr around the post of the next st] repeat { … ] twelves times more, turn. 54 tr / 69 BPtr / 123 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st ] repeat seventeen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 19 dc /4 tr / 20 x 5Bob / 2 x ch2-sps / 38 x ch3-sps
Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in 2sts, 2dc in the ch2-sp, [ 1dc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1dc and 1 htr in the next ch3-sp,
Lst around the dc of the previous row, 1htr and 1dc in the next ch2-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen times, 1dc on top of the next 5bob , 2dc in the ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 dc / 38 htr / 19 Lst / 123 sts
Note: Check your tension on rows 4—5, if you crochet tightly it may pull your row in slightly, if you know you have a tight tension you may wish to change to a bigger hook when working these rows.
Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the next st [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat across, turn. 62 dc / 61 x ch1-sps / 123 sts
Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat across until the last st, 1dc in the remaining st, turn. 63 dc / 60 x ch1-sps / 123 sts
Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st ] repeat eighteen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 24 dc / 19 x 5Bob / 40 x ch3-sps / 123 sts
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st [ 1dc and 1htr and in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next st (on the dc of the previous row), 1htr and 1dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st ( on the 5Bob of the previous row) ] repeat from [ … ] eighteen more times, 1dc and 1htr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next st, 1htr and 1dc in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the last two sts, turn. 59 dc / 40 htr / 24 tr / 123 sts
Rows 8 – 9: Repeat rows 4– 5, turn
Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in 2sts, 2dc in the ch2-sp, [ 1dc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1dc and 1 htr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr on the dc of the previous row, 1htr and 1dc in the next ch3-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen more times, 1dc in the next st, 2dc in the ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 dc / 38 htr / 19 tr
Rows 12 – 19: Repeat rows 4 – 11
Rows 20 – 26: Repeat rows 4 – 10, turn
Row 27: Repeat row 3, turn
Rows 28 – 29: Repeat rows 4– 5. Fasten off YARN F and weave in ends. 123sts
With YARN G repeat rows 1 – 29 on the opposite short side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Single crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
5 double crochet bobble (5Bob): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, [ yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook in same st ], and repeat […} four times (six loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.
Back Post double crochet (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
SCHEMATIC – PART 5
PATTERN – PART 5
PATTERN – PART 5
You will build part 5 onto the right side of the CAL;
With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 4, then across part 3, then on the row ends of part 4 again.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 4.
The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
The chain stitches in rows 4—5 do count as a stitch.
Row 1: Sl st to join YARN F around the post of the last st of Part 4; ch3, 1dc in the same st,[2dc around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] eleven times more, 1dc in the end post-sp of Part 3, BPdc in the next 69sts, 1dc in the end post-sp of Part 3, [2dc around the post of the next st] repeat { … ] twelves times more, turn. 54 dc / 69 BPdc / 123 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st ] repeat seventeen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 19 sc /4 dc / 20 x 5Bob / 2 x ch2-sps / 38 x ch3-sps
Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in 2sts, 2sc in the ch2-sp, [ 1sc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1sc and 1 hdc in the next ch3-sp, Lst around the sc of the previous row, 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch2-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen times, 1sc on top of the next 5bob , 2sc in the ch2-sp, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 sc / 38 hdc / 19 Lst / 123 sts
Note: Check your tension on rows 4—5, if you crochet tightly it may pull your row in slightly, if you know you have a tight tension you may wish to change to a bigger hook when working these rows.
Row 4: Ch1, 1sc in the next st [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in the next st ] repeat across, turn. 62 sc / 61 x ch1-sps / 123 sts
Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in the next 2sts [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in the next st ] repeat across until the last st, 1sc in the remaining st, turn. 63 sc / 60 x ch1-sps / 123 sts
Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in the next 2sts, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st ] repeat eighteen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn. 24 sc / 19 x 5Bob / 40 x ch3-sps / 123 sts
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st [ 1sc and 1hdc and in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st (on the sc of the previous row), 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch3-sp, 1sc in the next st ( on the 5Bob of the previous row) ] repeat from [ … ] eighteen more times, 1sc and 1hdc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st, 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the last two sts, turn. 59 sc / 40 hdc / 24 dc / 123 sts
Rows 8 – 9: Repeat rows 4– 5, turn
Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 1sc in 2sts, 2sc in the ch2-sp, [ 1sc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1sc and 1 hdc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc on the sc of the previous row, 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch3-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen more times, 1sc in the next st, 2sc in the ch2-sp, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 sc / 38 hdc / 19 dc
Rows 12 – 19: Repeat rows 4 – 11
Rows 20 – 26: Repeat rows 4 – 10, turn
Row 27: Repeat row 3, turn
Rows 28 – 29: Repeat rows 4– 5. Fasten off YARN F and weave in ends. 123sts
With YARN G repeat rows 1 – 29 on the opposite short side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! Part 5 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your acorns develop!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Apologies for the delay with sending this out! Dodgy internet has had me trying for the last 6 hours but I’m not happy to say that this finally seems to be working!
Welcome to part 4 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the ferns develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So are you are ready to get started on Part 4! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be collection some pinecones to add onto part 2 and part 3.
Did you know that pine cones are actually the woody fruiting body and reproductive part of pine trees, the seeds are hidden by the textured scales on the cones. They are the texture of any woodland scene; many a time we’ve been on pine cone hunts with the kids and I often use them as natural decoration in my home – so I had to include them in our CAL.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 2 x 65g / 162m / 178yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Natural (4443) – YARN D and 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Pumice (7154) – YARN E or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Camel (1420) – use as YARN D and E
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 4 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 64cm (24”) wide x 72cm (28”) long
In Special DK: 64cm (25”) wide x 67.5cm (26.5”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) once more (7 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 6 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 4
PATTERN – PART 4
You will build part 4 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 4 you will be working on the opposites sides of Part 3 directly onto Part 2.. With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 3, then across part 2, then on the row ends of part 3 again to build part 4.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 3.
The ch3 does counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
Due to the nature of the puff stitches you might find that it makes Part 4 wider and slightly rippled, if you know that you crochet at a looser tension you may wish to use a smaller hook for this section e.g. 3mm (US size D/3).
Row 1: Sl st to join YARN D around the post of the last st of Part 3; ch3, 1tr in the same st, 2tr around each post until you reach the corner of Part 2, work 2tr in that space (24sts), then work BPtr in each st across until you reach the next corner of Part 2 (77sts), work 2tr in that space, then work 2tr around each post until the end, turn. 48 tr / 77 BPtr / 125sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in each st across, turn. 125sts
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next 12sts, FPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the last 13 sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 FPtr / 125 sts
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 4sts, turn. 72 tr / 8 BPtr / 27 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 3sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, FPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn. 54tr / 8 FPtr / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 5sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 BPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, FPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 FPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 BPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, 1 tr in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 5 sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1 tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 54tr / 8 BPtr / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 11: Ch3, 1tr in next 12sts, 1FPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, 1FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] six more times, 1tr in the last 13sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 FPtr / 125sts
Row 12: Ch3, 1tr in next 12sts, 1BPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, 1BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] seven mores times, 1tr in the last 13sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 BPtr / 125sts
Row 13: Ch3, 1tr in each st across. 125sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends.
With YARN E repeat rows 1 – 13 on the opposite side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) once more (7 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 6 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 4
PATTERN – PART 4
You will build part 4 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 4 you will be working on the opposites sides of Part 3 directly onto Part 2.. With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 3, then across part 2, then on the row ends of part 3 again to build part 4.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 3.
The ch3 does counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
Due to the nature of the puff stitches you might find that it makes Part 4 wider and slightly rippled, if you know that you crochet at a looser tension you may wish to use a smaller hook for this section e.g. 3mm (US size D/3).
Row 1: Sl st to join YARN D around the post of the last st of Part 3; ch3, 1dc in the same st, 2dc around each post until you reach the corner of Part 2, work 2dc in that space (24sts), then work BPdc in each st across until you reach the next corner of Part 2 (77sts), work 2dc in that space, then work 2dc around each post until the end, turn. 48 dc / 77 BPdc / 125sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in each st across, turn. 125sts
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next 12sts, FPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the last 13 sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 FPdc / 125 sts
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the
next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 4sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 4sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 4sts, turn. 72 dc / 8 BPdc / 27 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 3sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn. 54dc / 8 FPdc / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 5sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 BPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 FPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 BPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 9: Repeat row 7,turn. 36 dc / 8 FPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, 1 dc in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, 1dc in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 5 sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, 1dc in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1 dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 54dc / 8 BPdc / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts
Row 11: Ch3, 1dc in next 12sts, 1FPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] six more times, 1dc in the last 13sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 FPdc / 125sts
Row 12: Ch3, 1dc in next 12sts, 1BPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, 1BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] seven mores times, 1dc in the last 13sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 BPdc / 125sts
Row 13: Ch3, 1dc in each st across. 125sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends.
With YARN E repeat rows 1 – 13 on the opposite side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! Part 4 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your stars begin to emerge!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
