Free Crochet Pattern | Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Anyone else get to October and get an overwhelming urge to make some pumpkins?

Not just me, phew, that’s handy 😉 because today I’m going to be sharing a brand new FREE pattern with you; my Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio.

There’s a large, medium and small pumpkin, and as they are made from Aran / Worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook they are a quick make. And they are easy too, perfect for any beginner crocheters, as they only use simple stitches, who might be looking for an autumnal project.

They are also incredibly satisfying and sort of addictive to make, I already want to make some more to create a whole pumpkin patch!

For my baskets I used Stylecraft Special Aran which I had in my stash. I chose three natural looking colours of Spice, Camel and Pistachio but you could really play with your colours to match your home decor. They would be perfect for Autumnal table settings, around the mantle, or for a welcoming doorway – after all what’s October without a few pumpkins!

The Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Aran / Worsted); Stylecraft Special Aran used in photographs.

  • 1 ball Spice  (Shade  1711) YARN A
  • 1 ball Camel  (Shade 1420)  YARN B
  • 1 ball Pistachio (Shade 1822)       YARN C
  • 1 ball Dark Brown (Shade 1004)  YARN D

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

Finished Sizes:   

  • Large pumpkin: Approx: 15cm (5.9″) high / 52 cm (20″) circumference
  • Medium pumpkin: Approx: 12cm (4.7″) high / 44cm (17.7″) circumference
  • Small pumpkin: Approx: 10cm (3.9″) high / 35cm (13.7″) circumference

Gauge: 5dc= 1.4 inches / 3 .5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Decreases in this pattern are worked as an invisible decrease in the following mannerInsert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.  Working a decrease in this way helps reduce  appearance of holes that can be made when working a decrease the normal way.

Pattern Notes

  • Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice at tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
  • Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a  spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V               farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as  instructed.

Pattern

Large Pumpkin Body

Rnd 1: With A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 12sts

Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] around. 18 sts

Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc] around. 24sts

Rnd 5: [1dc in next 3sts, 2dc] around. 30sts

Rnd 6: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc] around. 36sts

Rnd 7: [1dc in next 5sts, 2dc] around. 42sts

Rnd 8: [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around. 48sts

Rnd 9: [1dc in next 7sts, 2dc] around. 54sts

Rnd 10: [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around. 60sts

Rnd 11: [1dc in next 9sts, 2dc] around. 66sts

Rnd 12: 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 10sts, 2dc] around until the last 5sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 72sts

Rnds 13-27: Dc around

Rnd 28: [1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog] around. 66sts

Rnd 29: [1dc in next 9sts, dc2tog] around. 60sts

Rnd 30: [1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog] around. 54sts

Rnd 31: [1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog] around. 48sts

Rnd 32: [1dc in next 6sts, dc2tog] around. 42sts

Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go.

Rnd 33: [1dc in next 5sts, dc2tog] around. 36sts

Rnd 34: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 30sts

Rnd 35: [1dc in next 3sts, dc2tog] around. 24sts

Rnd 36: [1dc in next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18sts

Rnd 37: [1dc, dc2tog] around. 12sts

Rnd 38: [Dc2tog] around. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Large Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Large Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 9: With B; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 54sts

Rnd 10: 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around until the last 4sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 60sts

Rnds 11-23: Dc around

Rnds 24 – 32: Repeat rows 30 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Rnd 1: With D; working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 10sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Medium Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 10sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Small Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 7: With C; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 42sts

Rnd 8: 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around until the last 3sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 48sts

Rnds 9-19: Dc around

Rnds 20 – 26: Repeat rows 32 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts

Small Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 5: With D; make as the Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Small Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnd 1: With D; ; working into a magic ring, 8dc. 8sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Making up

For each pumpkin:

1. Take the length of yarn tail, and wrap your yarn around  your pumpkin twice; taking it through the centre of the pumpkin and pulling it taught to shape your pumpkin into segments, tie in a  secure knot at the top.

2. Repeat step 1 twice more in equal segments (creating six segments in total).

3. Sew the stalk bottom onto the bottom of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the  bottom.

4. Sew the stem onto the top of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the top.

And that’s it! Enjoy your gourd-eous pumpkins!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! 

And if you haven’t had enough of pumpkins yet then you might like my Chunky Pumpkins that I made for my Deramores Designer Shop last year. They are made in a totally different way, with a different stitch using chunky yarn and a bigger hook so you’d get to try something new!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Abundance and Heritage

We have now reached the finale of our four week crochet-along. We can now see in our sights the end of the harvest as we draw into September and we can enjoy a final crochet community celebration as we finish our Lammas Day shawls.

Although we are on the last part of our CAL, if you are joining in at a later date you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page where all the CAL posts are one place. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link below).

This week we will continue our decreases as we till the earth by harrowing and ploughing the fields we have sown, and gather together in the abundance of the harvest. We will have a bit of crochet heritage with the familiar treble cluster (as seen in a traditional granny square) and think of our cluster of stitches as also representing a time where every available man, woman and child, was needed to get the crops in.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 3;

Row 134: (RS): Starting with a decrease;Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 59sts

Row 135: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 58sts

Row 136: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 57sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 137: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eleven more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 56sts

Rows 138 – 139: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 55 / 54sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 140: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 53sts

Rows 141 – 142: Repeat rows 135 – 136, turn. 52 / 51sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 143: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 50sts

Rows 144 – 145: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 49 / 48sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 146: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat nine more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 47sts

Rows 147 – 148: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 46 / 45sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 149: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eight more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 44sts

Rows 150 – 151: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 41 / 42sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 152: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 41sts

Rows 153 – 154: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 38 / 39sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern. The ch4 in the pattern counts as a dtr;

Row 155: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, miss next st, (3dtr in the next st, miss 2sts) repeat nine more times across the row, 3dtr in the next st, miss the next st, 1dtr in the next st, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 38sts

Row 156: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp before the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 37sts

Row 157: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp before the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat ten more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 36sts

Row 158: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 3tr in the last st, turn. 35sts

Row 159: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, (3dtr in the sp between the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 34sts

Row 160: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last st, turn. 33sts

Row 161: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp after the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, turn. 32sts

Row 162: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp between the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat eight more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 31sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 163: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 30sts

Row 164: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 29sts

Rows 165 – 189: Repeat rows 163 – 164, turn. 4sts

Row 190: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next st, turn. 3sts

Row 191: Ch1, dc3tog. 1st

Fasten off with a sl st, weave in all ends.

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

Blocking your shawl:

The design of this wrap will benefit from being wet blocked;

  1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
  1. Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board
  1. Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g. check the height and width are correct)
  1. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.

If you were wondering what I use to block my shawls I use this simple foam playmats to pin my shawls down, I swear by these Knitpro blockers and I also use these T-pins for lacy bits and corner points.

Written Pattern Link:

Now that we are on the last part of the CAL a PDF document of the pattern has been put together by Anchor Yarns which you can find as a free download on their website here.

And that’s it!

Your shawl is now finished! Maybe to celebrate you can go break bread somewhere nice wearing your new shawl.

Support:

You can still get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – I can’t wait to see your finished shawls.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.


Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Edited: Correction made to row 119 (7 October 2021)

Can you believe it’s nearly the end of August? I suppose the summer can be a busy time which makes the weeks fly by, and it means it’s time for Week 3 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

I hope you are ready to start Part 3 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and start to watch our spikes of wheat become heavy with their ears of grain.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Grain St (Grst): [1 puff st, ch3, 1 puff st] in the same stitch
  • Puff St: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop) once more.  Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.  Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch (the ch1 does not count in the st count).

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that will now decrease with each row; decreases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the decrease side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark decrease side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check st counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning ch’s on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Row 98: (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the same st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 95sts

Row 99: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 94sts

Row 100: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 93sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 101: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 92sts

Rows 102 – 103: Repeat row 100 and 99, turn. 91 / 90sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 104: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 89sts

Rows 105 – 106: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 88 / 87sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 107: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 86sts

Rows 108 – 109: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 85 / 84sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 110: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 83sts

Rows 111 – 112: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 82 / 81sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 113: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 5sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 80sts

Rows 114 – 115: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 79 / 78sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 116: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 77sts

Rows 117 – 118: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 76 / 75sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating five row stitch pattern;

Note: In the pattern where it says to work into the next ch3-sp, this is the space in the middle of the Grst

Row 119 (WS): Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (9 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 120: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (9 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 121: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, tr2tog, turn. (9 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 122: Ch1, tr2tog, 4tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 71sts

Row 123: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 70sts

Row 124: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (Grst, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 125: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (8 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 126: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 127: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the next 1tr’s of the previous row, tr2tog. 1tr in the last st, turn. 66sts

Row 128: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in each st across the row, turn. 65sts

Row 129: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, 1tr in the next 4sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (7 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 130: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 6sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (7 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 131: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row,1tr in the next 2sts, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (6 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 132: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 61sts

Row 133: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 60sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 3 completed! We will be continuing with our decreases next week to finish off our shawl.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.


Lammas Day CAL: Part 2 – Shoots and Growth

I don’t know about you but that week seemed to go really quickly! And here we are already at Week 2 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

I hope you are ready to start Part 2 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and watch our planted crops begin to push up shoots and sprout up into little plants.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 2 – Shoots and Growth

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Up to the end of Part 2 – 82cm long, 54cm at widest point

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Special Picot Stitch:  Ch 3, insert hook around the post of the double crochet base st, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 2

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 1;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row,

For the purpose of the stitch count of row 60; aside from the dc and treble stitches the ch2-sps count as one st (apart from the first ch that counts as two).

Row 60: (WS): Ch6 (counts as 1tr + ch3), (1dc in the ch3 of the previous Sprig St, ch2, 1tr in the space between the next two Sprig Sts, ch2), repeat thirteen times across the row, 1dc on the ch3 of the beginning ch of the previous row, turn. 60sts

Row 61: This is the increase side;Ch1, 2htr in the first st, (1htr in each ch2-sp, 1htr in each tr and dc of the previous row) across the row, working 2htr in ch5-sp of the beginning 6ch of Row 60, and 1htr in the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch of Row 60 to finish the row, turn. 61sts

Row 62: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 62sts

Row 63: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in each st across, turn. 63sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 64: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat thirteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the last st, turn. 64sts

Rows 65 – 66: Repeat rows 63 and 62, turn. 66sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 67: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 3sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fourteen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 67sts

Rows 68 – 69: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 69sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 70: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fifteen times across the row, 2htr in the last st, turn. 70sts

Rows 71 – 72: Repeat rows 63 – 62, turn. 72sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 73: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 5sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fifteen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 73sts

Rows 74 – 75: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 75sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 76: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the last st, turn. 76sts

Rows 77 – 78: Repeat rows 63 – 62, turn. 78sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 79: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 3sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 79sts

Rows 80 – 81: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 81sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern; the ch5 at the start of a row counts as 1tr + ch2 throughout;

Row 82: Ch5, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1tr in the same st as the last tr, turn.  82sts (22trs, 20 picots / dc, 40 x ch2-sps)

Row 83: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat nineteen times across the row, turn.  83sts

Row 84: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, turn.  83sts (21trs, 21 picots / dc, 41 x ch2-sps)

Row 85: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same sp, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat nineteen times across the row, turn. 84sts

Row 86: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc,ch2, 1tr on top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  85sts (22trs, 21 picots / dc, 42 x ch2-sps)

Row 87: Ch3, 2tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty times across the row, turn.  87sts

Row 88: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1 st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, turn.  87sts (22trs, 22 picots / dc, 43 x ch2-sps)

Row 89: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same sp, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty times across the row, turn.  88sts

Row 90: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, 1tr in the next st, turn.  89sts (23trs, 22 picots / dc, 44 x ch2-sps)

Row 91: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-one times across the row, turn.  90sts

Row 92: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 2sts, 2tr in the last st turn.  90sts (24trs, 22 picots / dc, 44 x ch2-sps)

Row 93: Ch3, 2tr in the same st, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-one times across the row, turn.  92sts

Row 94: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, 1tr in the next st, turn.  93sts (24trs, 23 picots / dc, 46 x ch2-sps)

Row 95: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-two times across the row, turn.  94sts

Row 96: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss  st, 1tr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, ch2, 1dc on the last st, special picot on the dc, turn.  95sts (24trs, 24 picots / dc, 47 x ch2-sps)

Row 97: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same st, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-two times across the row.  96sts. Fasten off and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! We’ve now reached the widest parts of our shawl, it’s all downwards to the end from here!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next three weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.


Lammas Day CAL: Part 1 – Ploughing and Sprigs

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 4 weeks to create a harvest inspired shawl, and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

We are going to make a start on our shawl today with increases to begin the shape of our triangle shawl, then we are going to follow up with ploughing our first field with some striped spike stitches, before planting those first sprig stitches as the crops in our first field begin to grow.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 1 – Ploughing and Sprigs

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Part 1 – 50cm long, 33cm at widest point

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Magic ring (MR): is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice and tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Sprig Stitch: (2tr in the first st, ch3, 2tr in the next st, miss 2sts) on first row, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in the ch3-sp of the previous Sprig Stitch.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 1

Note: The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st

Row 1: (RS): With YARN A, MR, ch1, 2htr into the ring, turn. 2sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, 2htr in the next st (first increase, this will form the increase side), turn. 3sts

Row 3: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in each st across, turn. 4sts

Row 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 5sts

Rows 5 – 29: Repeat rows 3 – 4 twelve more times, and 3 once more, turn. 30sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Rows 30 – 32: Repeat rows 4 – 3 once and row 4 once more, turn. 33sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 33: Ch1, 2htr in first st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat six more times, 1htr in the last 3sts, turn. 34sts

Rows 34 – 35: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 36sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Row 36: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 37sts

Rows 37 – 38: Repeat rows 3 and 4, turn. 39sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 39: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times, 1htr in the remaining 3sts, turn. 40sts

Rows 40 – 41: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 42sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Row 42: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, (SPtr in the next st, 1htr in 3sts), repeat nine more times, 2htr in the last st, turn. 43sts

Rows 43 – 44: Repeat rows 3 and 4, turn. 45sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 45: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, (SPtr in the next st, 1htr in 3sts), repeat ten more times, turn. 46sts

Rows 46 – 47: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 48sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in Sprig Stitch; at the start of the rows in this section the ch3 counts as a ‘tr’ st.

Row 48: Ch3, miss 2sts, (Sprig St) repeat ten more times across the row, miss 2sts, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in the last st, turn.  49sts

Row 49: Ch3, working in the ch-3sp from the previous row (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  50sts

Row 50: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 2tr in the last st, turn.  51sts

Row 51: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  52sts

Row 52: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, [2tr between the 2tr and ch3 of the previous row, ch3, 2tr in the last st] counts as a Sprig St, turn.  53sts

Row 53: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn. 54sts

Row 54: Ch3, (Sprig St) in the last ch3-sp of row 53, then repeat twelve more times, 2tr in the last st, turn.  55sts

Row 55: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  56sts

Row 56: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, [2tr between the 2tr and ch3 of the previous row, ch3, 2tr in the last st] counts as a Sprig St, turn.  57sts

Row 57: Ch3, (Sprig St) in the last ch3-sp of row 56; then repeat (Sprig St) thirteen more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn. 58sts

Row 58: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat thirteen more times across the row, 2tr in the last st, turn.  59sts

Row 59: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat thirteen more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  60sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your shawls grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next three weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Creativa Tuck Baskets

Looking for a quick, easy and useful crochet project? Well I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another free pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns, that might just be what you are looking for.

I’m a bit of a sucker for a crochet basket, I love them, so when I got the opportunity to play with some Anchor Creativa 8ply Cotton I knew the yarn was destined to become a basket idea I’d been thinking of. 

I really wanted to make a couple of baskets that were a different shape from the usual round baskets you see, I wanted to make at least two baskets, and I also wanted them to nest inside each other. The idea came from a sort of square box type basket that I’d seen made from fabric that I thought might make a good shape to try and recreate in crochet.

The finished result were the ‘Tuck Baskets’ named for two reasons; because they have a little tuck at the side to help them stand up and be more sturdy and because they can tuck inside each other.

For my baskets I used Creativa 8ply which is a yarn that I’d not had the opportunity to use before, though I’ve used the Creativa Fino 4ply for lots of different projects. The 8ply is the 4plys bigger sister; it’s quite a chunky DK with the same vibrant colour palette which makes it a great choice for home décor items. It’s a 100% cotton natural fibre, that’s soft and silky, that comes in a 50g / 70m.

I used 4mm hook (US size G/6), and 3 different colours (shades 4620008-00391 / Teal, Shade 4620008-00258 / Raspberry, Shade 4620008-00105 / Cream) to create these fun little baskets.

I enjoyed making them in the contrast colours of the Raspberry and Teal and then I used the Cream to tie them together. As I also love wooden buttons I included some 15mm ones in the finished aesthetic for each side which I think worked out quite nicely.

Square and cute these tuck baskets are perfect for displaying on your bookcase or cabinets to tidy away those small items that don’t have a designated space!

The Creativa Tuck Basket pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD

Make them to match your house decor, or maybe gift as a cute house warming gift, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!

The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches – though I’ve also included a chart to the pattern for that extra helping hand.

If you hook up the Tuck Baskets I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Lammas Day CAL Planning

Happy Lammas Day to you! The wheel of the year is turning once more with the beginning of, hopefully, sunny days of August. Farmers, thoughts will be turning to gathering up the first harvests of grain, wheat, oats and more – and so ours thoughts are turning to our mini-crochet-along where, over the course of 4 weeks, we will crochet a seasonal shawl together that celebrates this time of year.

As promised I’m going to share with you some more information so you can get planning your Lammas Day Shawl including yarn amounts, hook size, the colours I used on the wrap – and even a little sneaky peep of the finished shawl for anyone that wanted to know what it looked like!

I did mention some of the details in my first announcement about the CAL (here) but this post will have all the information you need to get ready to start on 13 August 2021.

Yarn Colours and Amounts:

I’ve crocheted the wrap using five earthy, harvest themed shades of Anchor Organic Cotton; Natural, Sunflower, Rocky Orange, Earthy Brown and Red Dunes – such a lovely autumnal pallet!

Anchor Organic Cotton is an un-mercerised 100% cotton 4-ply yarn resulting in a natural soft touch and matt finish.

The amounts I used for my shawl are below;

Anchor Organic CottonBallsGramsMetres
Natural (00105)5250g623m
Sunflower 150g125m
Rocky Orange 270g150m
Red Dunes260g137.5m
Earthy Brown150g125m

Yarn Stockists:

The following stockists in the U.K have the yarn available to buy;

These next retailers also stock the yarn in UK, but it does not appear on their websites, so would need to be a phone call or in store visit for those who live nearby:

For overseas there are the following companies – though they do also ship to the UK;

Hook:

You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

Finished Shawl Size:

The finished shawl finishes up at roughly 165cm / 65″ long by 54cm / 21″ wide (at the widest point) using the yarn specified and at my gauge. Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item may be a different size and potentially use more yarn than stated.

The schematic for the shawl can be seen below.

Pattern:

The pattern will be available for free here on the blog and, after the CAL has finished, as a free PDF, sponsored by Anchor Crafts, on their website. As well as the written pattern and charts of each section there will also be helpful video tutorials. Links to each part will be given on the relevant section of the shawl as per the schedule.

The Schedule, Updates and Support:

If you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find all the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the details via the following links:

The Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters there of all experiences and it’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have. You can of course always contact me too here on the blog.

And finally the moment many of you have been waiting for – a photo of what we will be making!

Links:

The hashtag for this CAL is are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Part 1 will be released on 13 August – I can’t wait to start working on a beautiful wrap together.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free-bee Crochet Pattern | Bee-utiful Clutch Bag

Hey folks, hope you are well in your part of the world. I’ve got a lovely free-bee for you to enjoy today! Allow me to introduce the Bee-utiful Clutch bag – a small bag with big textured personality!

The bag uses a stitch that I’ve used before; on the Bee Keeper block in the Stitch Story CAL. At the time I thought the stitch pattern was so effective with creating such a beautiful texture that knew I wanted to use it again.

Fast forward three years or so to when I came across some yellow Anchor Creativa Fino in my stash. The stitch idea reignited itself as I thought I would make the bee themed clutch bag idea I’d got rumbling around in my head.

Super simple to make and with many practical uses for a clutch bag or makeup bag; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. I used some bee fabric to line mine, to finish off the inside, but with this stitch pattern you could probably get away with not lining it if you aren’t a fan of sewing.

The following Bee-utiful Clutch Bag is free here on the blog or you can make a beeline for the pattern in your favourite pattern stores where you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Bee-utiful Clutch Bag

MATERIALS

Yarn Required: 100g of Yellow

Yarn used: Anchor Creativa Fino used in photos;

(Shade: #00306)

About the yarn: 4ply / Fingering Weight; 125m per 50g ball, 100% Cotton

Hook Size: 3mm (US size D/3)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

You will also need:

· A yarn needle

· Stitch Markers

· 2cm (0.8”) Button

· Optional: Facing and material for lining your bag

Finished Size:      19cm (7.4 inches) wide x 12cm (4.7 inches) high

Gauge: 6sts = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a  different size.

STITCH GUIDANCE

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.

Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog):  Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of  removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.

Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

PATTERN

Main Body of Clutch:

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on.

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch  markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (WS) : Ch1 *5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: (RS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 htr then 5 sl st in 5sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: (WS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 sl st then 5 sl st in 5 htr * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, 5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-52: Repeat rows 2-5 thirteen times

From this point onwards you will begin shaping the clutch flap;

Row 53: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 46sts, dc2tog, turn. 48sts

Row 54: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 44sts, dc2tog, turn. 46sts

Row 55: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 42sts, dc2tog, turn. 44sts

Rows 57 – 71: Continue decreasing on each end until you have 14sts left.

Row 72: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, ch4, miss 4sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 12sts

Row 73: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, 1dc in each of the ch4 sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 10sts

Row 74: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 6sts, dc2tog, turn, fasten off and weave in ends. 8sts

MAKING UP:

· Fold the bag in half, leaving the gap at the top open with the flap. and  seam both sides together on the wrong side.

· Turn your bag right side round and add your button to the body of the bag opposite the open button hole

· Optional: create a lining for your bag

And that’s it! Get ready for taking it out and about and bee-witching all who see your bee-utiful new clutch bag.

If you hook up the Bee-utiful Clutch Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.

Free Crochet Pattern | Freccia Filet Market Bag

A lightweight crochet market bag is a must to sling over your shoulders to take grocery shopping, or on a picnic trip, or to the beach – or anywhere you need! My new and free Freccia Filet Market Bag is just the ticket for carrying your oranges – or anything else that takes your fancy!

I think there’s an even bigger need for crochet bags these days as we all try to utilise eco-friendly reusable bags over plastic ones. It’s a great way to use your crochet skills to make something useful and practical – and reusable bags are also perfect summer projects when made in a lightweight yarn!

I’ve had in my mind a pattern for a market bag for ages, so when the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns asked me if I’d like to make a bag with some of their Anchor Freccia yarn I quickly said yes!

Freccia is a 3 ply high quality 100% Egyptian Giza cotton thread offering a delicate balance of softness, flexibility, body and brightness. It’s a versatile thread, available in 6 thread thicknesses, which I’ve used it before for a scarf (see FREE Freccia Flor Scarf here), and it comes in a wide range of different colours.

I used no. 6 thickness again this time, with a 2.5mm hook (US size C/2), and I chose to make my bag in a lovely rich royal purple (shade 00092). The whole bag, including the straps, used 4 x 50g (4 x 175m) balls in total to create a bag with a width of 38cm (14″) x length 40cm (15″) , bag handles 62cm (24″) in length.

Made with cotton yarn the Freccia Filet Market Bag is super robust and if it gets dirty, you can just throw it in the washing machine and hang it up to dry!

I wanted to create a bag that was strong and durable, but also that would be a bit pretty – that’s where the filet came in. To begin with I had in mind a larger filet design on the bag, but quickly realised that wasn’t going to be at all practical as things could potentially fall through the ‘holes’ so I decided the design would be served better by having a filet detail around the top.

The bag and the filet sections are worked in a unique way in rounds and in rows to minimise a visible seam at the end. Crocheting the bottom and the straps, with extra slip stitches, also makes the bag extra durable so they can hold then a lot of weight even with only using a lightweight cotton.

The Freccia Filet Market Bag is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD

Crochet a single colour bags or in variegated yarn, or maybe in the rainbow colour palette, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!

The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. Great for anyone that wants a new reusable bag, or maybe someone who wants to try a bit of filet crochet (it’s a technique I don’t think I’m ever going to get sick of!).

Perfect for rolling up and popping in your handbag for when you need a bag, or pack it up and go!

If you hook up the Filet Market Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Filet Fantastic CAL: Made by You!

Although our recent crochet along journey is at an end I really wanted to do a post showcasing some of the wonderful Filet Fantastic blankets that YOU have made! It’s been such a privilege to have had the opportunity to watch your blankets grow every week – it has been really special to see.

Don’t if you are new to the blog and this is the first you are hearing about this CAL; you can find a list with all the links about the CAL here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it will also be available in an e-book on Ravelry. Now that the CAL is over the full e-booklet with all the pattern details has been uploaded to Ravelry (and will be added to my other pattern stores if you don’t use Ravelry). This booklet is available in either UK or US terms and contains the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place.

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL e-Book on Ravelry  💚💙💜

It’s amazing how many countries this blanket has been made in including; UK, US, Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Germany, Canada, Sweden, Czech Republic, Italy, France and Ireland!

There have been many beautiful blankets put together with the exclusive kits from Black Sheep Wools , there were two rainbow colourway options, one in Scheepjes Colour Crafter (DK) and another in Scheepjes Riverwashed (4ply) – both are yarns which I’ve personally used many times and love.

Doesn’t that collection of beautiful happy rainbow blankets just make your heart sing! They are all just so pretty!

If you were looking to purchase a kit from Black Sheep Wools although the kits are showing out of stock at the moment, Black Sheep are in the process of getting the yarn together to restock (it’s just been held up a little by the new Brexit procedures). If you click on the button ‘notify me when available’ on their website, then you will get an email when the kits are available to order again.

There are also some stash buster, own colourways or single colour blankets photos that have been shared. I’d love to share all the blankets that have been made, as they are all so fantastic – but that would be an extremely lost post, so I have just selected a few different ones for inspiration purposes.

Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I have really loved seeing your finished blankets 💕

Although the our current CAL is now over please keep sharing your photos on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – they are such a wonderful source of inspiration for us all.

I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! There’s actually more people than me that helped to make this CAL happen! Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn support for the Colour Crafter blanket so I could offer an alternative option of yarn for you. I need to thank Sara and Lucy from Black Sheep Wools for their time in putting together the kits, big thanks to Mrs G Makes and Simply Shade Cards for their stitch marker and shade card contributions.

I also need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible and who helped with the moderation of the Facebook Group during CAL. So big shout outs to Kimberlie, Steff, Kim, Tracey L, Tracey P, Amanda, Leanne, Paula, Dulcy, Jan, Jacki and Leanne – this wouldn’t have been possible without your help!

Thanks as always to my family for bearing with me while I worked on the CAL; especially my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo, and to my wonderful mum who crocheted up the second colour crafter version of the blanket 💕

Now it’s time for me to fold up my Filet Fantastic Blanket!

But our community crafting endeavours are not yet over for this year, we’ve got our summer make-along starting on 5 July (read more about Whispers of the Sea here).

You might also wish to mark on your calendar a BRAND NEW four part FREE mini make along, sponsored by Anchor Yarns, starting on 1 August – though I’ll tell you more about that later, though you could always sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter to be kept up to date with any new plans.

And of course there is always 2022…you’ll be pleased to hear that planning for the next big CAL is already underway! 

I hope you will continue to join me with these projects, it’s so wonderful to watch my designs grow with you!

Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!

Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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