You may remember me saying a few posts ago that I’d been busy designing some new fun amigurumi’s for Deramores well today I get to introduce you to another of the Deradog pack that’s appearing in the magazine – and this one is a bit of a favourite of mine…
It’s a little Schnauzer pupper! I love how this little doggo turned out and if you haven’t seen the cute little video that Simply Crochet have made of him (on Facebook) then you really need to check it out! I squealed when I saw it!
And I squealed again when I saw that Simply Crochet had added him on the header of their website!! Look he’s just perched on the top there! Squeek!
This little Schnauzer turned out just how I wanted him to – and I seem to know a lot of people who have Schnauzers so I was conscious that I had to do them justice.
The pattern is an exclusive to Issue 85 of Simply Crochet magazine, so only available there for now, and Deramores have put together a kit for everything you need to make him – which you can get directly from the website here.
And right now over on Facebook Simply Crochet are holding a mini competition to give this little pup a name! Just pop on over to the SCtreblemakers Facebook group where you can leave your suggested name in the comments section of the competition post.
The magazine will be picking two winning names at random who will each win the yarn pack to make the Deradog – how cool is that AND the winners will also get a £20 Deramores voucher! Names will be put up for public vote to decide the winner and the deadline for entries is 17 June 2019 (UK entrants only I’m afraid).
What do you think he / or she should be called? As well as entering the competition I hope you’ll let me know in the comments below as I’d love to hear your suggestions!
When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.
Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!
Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.
The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.
There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!
And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.
The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
BPtr/BPdc UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
FPtr/FPdc UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
USDouble Crochet 3 together / USDouble Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
UKBack Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UKFront Post treble /Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.
The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.
Pattern:
Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).
Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)
Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.
Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
Guess what! I’ve got double exciting news to tell you all! The first is that I’ve partnered up with fabbo yarn house Deramores and we’ve got some fun amigurumi patterns coming this way! Today I’d like to introduce you to the first one – here’s Poppy the Poodle!
If you are a toy knitter then you may have already come across the classic knitted Dera-Dog family by designer Amanda Berry. Deramores asked me if I’d like to have a go at creating a crochet version of the Deradogs for them and of course I jumped at the chance of such an exciting challenge.
It was an interesting challenge as knitted toys are totally different from crocheted toys. Most knitted toys are worked flat and then seamed together which is totally different from working in rounds like you do when you work in the usual amigurumi style. Both crafts create different textures and different shapes which was something I had to consider before I started.
It was important to me to try and capture the essence of the classic knitted Dera-dog but to also make the crocheted version my own. It also hopefully shows that crochet is just as versatile (if not more so in my opinion) to create great shapes that can become terrific little characters.
For Poppy I used Deramores Studio Anti-Piling DK which is a 100% acrylic yarn that is super soft and has been developed with anti-pilling technology. In a nutshell this just means that any fabric you make with this yarn, whether it’s a garment or a toy, should avoid going bobbly or thinner over time.
It was my first time using this yarn, and I think the first time I’ve used an anti-piling yarn, and I have to say I LOVE it! It really is just nice to work with; very soft on the fingers and it comes in 48 different shades so there’s a nice variety to choose from – I’m definitely going to be using it in future projects.
And now I’m going to share with you the second bit of exciting news! You can get Poppy the Poodle pattern for FREE right now in my very own Deramores Designer Shop!
I’m so excited to say that I’ve joined a wonderful group of knit and crochet designers from across the globe who have shared some of there favourite patterns via a Deramores Designer Shop.
The great thing about the designer shops with Deramores is that you can choose whether you just want the pattern, or if you want the pattern + yarn! Cool right? Takes away the chore of sorting out buying stuff as you can just get what you need to get started on your next project.
The shop is brand new so will be growing all the time so be sure to check back occasionally to see what’s new – though of course I’ll let you know if I add anything new here on the blog too (so if you haven’t already you might want to subscribe to the blog so you get all the news).
Yesterday Yarn Shop Day returned for it’s sixth year in the UK with over 200 shops sharing lots of fibre fun, discounts, free patterns and (probably) cake!
I was back at Abakhan Fabrics in Hanley (where I spent Yarn Shop Daylast year), this time for the full day, where there was both cake and yarn galore!
I had a little table at the back of the shop where, in the morning, I held a bit of a crochet surgery so that anyone who wanted to come and ask crochet questions, or who perhaps wanted to learn how to crochet, could come and ask / or have a go.
Yarn shops are usually such a great place to get crafty tips as owners usually have such a wealth of knowledge. They often also run demos or classes where you can learn a new hobby too – just like the ones I’m doing this year (read more about those here and here).
And despite the really awful weather we had (that I thought might put people off venturing out), it proved quite popular so I actually ended up having a table full of people nearly all day asking questions and learning different techniques.
It was so lovely to meet the people who had popped into the store or who had found out about the workshop because of my blog (it’s very encouraging to know that there ARE actual people reading this out there!).
The people I met were folks who had always wanted to try crochet or others that wanted help with a particular crochet problem – and I’m also secretly a bit gleeful that there were some knitters that were giving crochet a go too!
By the end of the day there were two completed granny squares by people that had never crocheted before which is just so awesome! And will hopefully show anyone thinking of giving crochet a go that it’s not so scary – you can do it!
Luckily I wasn’t presented with something that I didn’t know (that could have been embarrassing!). The main things that we covered were how to make granny squares, how to join motifs, how to weave in ends, how to keep seams straight when working in the round, how to keep tension when crocheting, how to do the magic ring, and increasing and decreasing in the round.
The latter being all helpful tips for anyone that wants to try crocheting amigurumi…which brings me neatly onto the mascots for this year ‘s Yarn Shop Day.
They were a cute amigurumi whale by Sarah-Jane Hicks called Bubbles and a family of knitted turtles by Sachiyo Ishii – both of which were patterns exclusively designed for Yarn Shop Day and were available free in stores.
I was lucky enough to get a copy of the crochet pattern before hand so I could make up my own whale to take along with me.
I used Ricorumi yarn and I think he came out looking really cute! My eight year old has now claimed him as hers.
As well as Yarn Shop Day being super fun for customers it’s also important for yarn shop retailers who say that the increased footfall and boosted sales of Yarn Shop Day really can help with keeping them going.
I never need an excuse to visit a yarn shop and I think it’s great to support local yarn shops all throughout the year. Yarn Shop Day is just a great reminder of just how much these shops have to offer – and that’s why I personally feel it’s important to support them in any way I can. I want to help keep these yarn shops on the high street so we don’t lose them altogether.
Did you get out for Yarn Shop Day? Or I’d love to hear what your Local Yarn Shop means to you? Let me know below!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Have you heard about the wonderful international makers project ‘Every Bird sings it’s own Song’? It’s a wonderful crafters connection project to try and create the longest line of hand crafted birds at the Textiel Festival Weerribben (in The Netherlands) in June.
The theme of the festival is Strange Birds, and the idea is to embrace core values of the crafting community of cooperation, diversity and connections.
I was contacted by Esmeralda, a facilitator of the project, to see if I could maybe share the information about the project which I said of course I would; as soon as I heard about this project I knew it was something I wanted to get involved in!
As well as sharing the information about the project here on the blog I decided to also have a go at designing my own little ‘strange bird’ – and the Little Kooky Bird was the result.
I used some Scheepjes Catona from my stash and some scraps of felt to create the little jellybean shaped hanging bird ornament.
Scroll down for the free Little Kooky Bird pattern but before then if you want to join in with the project too, maybe with a Little Kooky Bird you have made yourself, then please send them to: Creazy Ladies: de Hare 10, 8375 GC Oldemarkt, The Netherlands.
Birds don’t have to be crocheted, they can be from various materials: knitting, crocheting, quilting, embroidery, felting, drawn or dyed will all be accepted as long as it is made of textile, wool or yarn. The maximum size of any bird is 25 cm high and 15 cm wide.
The deadline for all birds to be in The Netherlands is 31 May 2019 and you can find out more, or follow the progress of the project of GGDW, on facebook, twitter and instagram with the hashtag of #evc2019
The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
Yarn:4ply / Fingering YarnScheepjes Catona used in photos;
1 x 15g / 37.5m x Shocking Pink (Shade 114)
1 x 10g / 25m x Ultra Violet (Shade 282)
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 2.75mm hook (US size C)
You will also need:
Polyester toy stuffing
2 x 9mm Black Safety Eyes
Small scraps of white and yellow felt
Yellow sewing thread and needle
Small piece of silver thread (optional)
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm (1 inch)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but finished size may differ if your gauge is different to the one specified.
Finished Size: 7.5cm (2.95 inches) high
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US double crochet 2 together
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[…] = Repeat the sequence between the square brackets by the number indicated.
(.. sts) = The number in round brackets at the end of the instruction indicates the number of stitches after working the row.
Stitch Guidance:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
UK Half Treble Crochet / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
Working in the round: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked in the amigurumi style without joining in continuous rounds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark the start of each round.
Invisible double crochet decrease: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Pattern:
Head / Body:
Rnd 1: With Shocking Pink make a magic ring, work 6dc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [2dc/sc] to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [1dc/sc, 2dc/sc] to end. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc] to end. (24 sts)
Rnd 5 – 9: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnd 10: 1dc/sc in 11 sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 dc/sc in 11 sts (26 sts)
Rnd 11: 1dc/sc in 12 sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 dc/sc in 12 sts (28 sts)
Rnd 12: 1dc/sc in 13 sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 dc/sc in 13 sts (30 sts)
Rnd 13: 1dc/sc in 14 sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 dc/sc in 14 sts (32 sts)
Rnd 14: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnds 15: dc/sc2tog, 1dc/sc in 13 sts, 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 dc/sc in 13 sts, dc/sc2tog (30 sts)
Rnds 16—17: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnd 18: [1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog] to end. (24 sts)
Rnd 19: 1dc/sc in each st around
Rnd 20: [1dc/sc in the next two sts, dc/sc2tog] to end. (18 sts)
Rnd 21: 1dc/sc in each st around
Cut two small flowers roughly 2.8cm (1.1in) high, cut a small hole in the centre of the flower and thread the safety eye stalk through the hole. Then add the safety eye between rnds 5 – 6 approximately 10 sts apart.
Stuff body.
Rnd 22: [1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog] to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: [dc/sc2tog] to end. (6 sts)
Fasten off with a sl st to the next st and using the yarn tail sew up the remaining six sts, weave in ends
Wings:
Make 2. Wings are not stuffed;
Rnd 1: With Ultra Violet 7ch, sl st in second ch from hook, 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 8tr/dc in the last st, then working on the other side of your beginning ch; 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1 sl st in the last st.
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching to body.
Breast:
Make 1.
Rnd 1: With Ultra Violet make a magic ring, work 6dc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [2dc/sc] to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [1dc/sc, 2dc/sc] to end. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc] to end. (24 sts)
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching to body.
Tail Feather:
Make 1.
Rnd 1: With Ultra Violet make a magic ring, work 6dc into ring. (6 sts)
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching to body.
Making Up:
Cut a small diamond shape out of yellow felt approximately 2cm (0.78in) long.
Attach beak to the front of the head (in-between eyes) on rnd 6 with yellow sewing thread.
Attach the breast onto the front of the body over rnds 13 – 19.
Attach wings over rnds 13-18 on each side of the bird.
Attach the tail feather to the back of the body on rnd 16.
Add your silver thread (or use some Ultra Violet) in a loop to the back of the birds head on rnd 6 so your bird can be hung up.
So a while back an idea popped into my brain to make a little bluebird amigurumi. I think I’d read somewhere that they had something to do with being happy, so I did a little Google research and discovered that yes, bluebirds are seen as a symbol of happiness in many cultures which dates back thousands of years. How cool is that!
I don’t think you can ever have TOO much felicity in your life and I liked the idea of making a wee bit for myself and of course sharing some joyousness with you!
Oh I apologise in advance for all the synonyms for happiness I use in this post – the thesaurus was my friend ladies and gentlemen!
Hopefully this free pattern will bring YOU a bit of good cheer and maybe you can pass on a bit of jocularity and glee if you make a little bluebird for someone else (or just make two and double the happy!)
My eldest daughter has said that the bluebirds name is ‘Blue’ which isn’t incredibly original, bless her, but it certainly is very fitting! I made him in Scheepjes Catona Cyan Blue (Shade 397) which was exactly the colour I’d envisioned him to be.
And here is Blue enjoying some lovely Spring sunshine – as was I when I was taking these photos. I so do love Spring with it’s promise of warmer days, lighter evenings and blossoming flowers don’t you? We are waiting in anticipation here for the annual cherry tree blossom flowering of the trees that line our street – it’s always a joy to see.
Worked in the round in amigurumi style this little bluebird is a quick project to make up and you can easily whip a couple up in an evening.
The fiddly (or fun bit depending on how you look at it) is making some wire feet, the wire I used was floral wire doubled together which I just twisted with my hands until they looked right. Alternatively one of my testers created a bird without legs so it looked like it was sitting (would look perfect with a little nest of yarn) and another tester used pipe cleaners for the feet, which I thought was a really good idea, and which might be easier to manipulate.
The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
Yarn:4ply / Fingering YarnScheepjes Catona used in photos;
1 x 25g / 62m x Cyan Blue (Shade 397)
1 x 10g / 25m x Lemon (Shade 280)
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 2.5mm hook (US size C/2)
You will also need:
Polyester toy stuffing
Florist or jewellery wire for feet
Black embroidery thread
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
PVC glue (optional)
Gauge: 5dc/sc = 2.5cm (1 inch)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but yarn amounts and finished size of projecy may differ if your gauge is different from mine.
Finished Size: 25cm (9.8 inches) from nose to tail
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US double crochet 2 together
[…] = Repeat the sequence between the square brackets by the number indicated.
(.. sts) = The number in round brackets at the end of the instruction indicates the number of stitches after working the row.
Stitch Guidance:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog):
Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
Working in the round: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked in the amigurumi style without joining in continuous rounds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark the start of each round.
Invisible double crochet decrease: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Pattern:
Head:
Rnd 1: With Cyan Blue make a magic ring, work 6dc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [2dc] to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] to end. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [1dc in the next two sts, 2dc] to end. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [1dc in the next three sts, 2dc] to end. (30 sts)
Rnds 6 – 10: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 11: [1dc in the next three sts, dc2tog] to end. (24 sts)
Rnd 12: [1dc in the next two sts, dc2tog] to end. (18 sts)
Begin to stuff head; continuing to stuff as you go.
Rnd 13: [1dc, dc2tog] to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 14: [dc2tog] to end. (6 sts)
Fasten off with a sl st to the next st and using the yarn tail sew up the remaining six sts, weave in ends
Body:
Rnds 1—5: With Cyan Blue work as Head. (30sts)
Rnds 6 – 7: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 8: [1dc in the next three sts, dc2tog] to end. (24 sts)
Rnds 9 – 11: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 12: [1dc in the next two sts, dc2tog] to end. (18 sts)
Rnds 13 – 14: 1dc in each st around
Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing head to the body. Stuff body.
Beak:
Beak is not stuffed;
Rnd 1: With Lemon make a magic ring, work 4dc into ring. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in the next 3sts (5 sts)
Rnd 3: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 4: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in the next 4sts (6sts)
Rnd 5: 1dc in each st around
Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing beak to the head.
Wings:
Make 2. Wings are not stuffed;
Rnd 1: With Cyan Blue make a magic ring, work 5dc into ring. (5 sts)
Rnd 2: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 3: [2dc] to end. (10 sts)
Rnds 4-7: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 8: [1dc in the next three sts, dc2tog] to end. (8 sts)
Tail Feathers:
Make 3. Tail feathers are not stuffed;
Rnd 1: With Cyan Blue make a magic ring, work 6dc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [1dc in the next two sts, 2dc] to end. (8 sts)
Rnds 3-8: 1dc in each st around
Rnd 9: [1dc in the next three sts, dc2tog] to end. (6 sts)
Making Up:
Attach the head to the body
Using black embroidery thread add an eye on either side of the head over rnds 5-7 approx 8 sts apart
Attach beak to the front of the head (in-between eyes) over rnds 6-8
Attach wings over rnds 10-11 on each side of the bird.
Attach the three tail feathers to the back of the body; two on rnd 6 and one above on rnd 7
Using the floral / jewellery wire fashion push the length through the bottom of the body of your bird (testing as you go to check the balance.
Fashion some bird feet at the end of each end of wire making sure your bird can stand without toppling over.
Wrap some lengths of Cyan yarn around the top of the leg and secure with a few stitches with your yarn needle to the body of your bird. You may wish to coat the yarn in a little PVC glue to stop it from slipping (optional).
Oops I’ve just realised I haven’t told you about my latest patterns in Crochet Club. magazine so I’ll thought I’d fill you in quickly as I’ve got a pattern in Issue 41.
On page 14 you will find my Rocky and Rita the Raccoons who are just perfect if you want to make yourself a quick little friend – or two.
You can make both raccoon with the yarns from the kit or with only 32g of beige yarn and some scraps of pink, yellow and white – so they are great little stash busters.
I also have another pattern to tell you about and it’s available for FREE on TopCrochetPatterns.com.
Crochet Club. magazine are celebrating the fact that the Top Crochet Patterns website has had a makeover and there are now over 650 patterns you can pick up from over there (including several of mine see all of them HERE).
I had great fun creating these miniature fruit well because they are miniature fruit and what’s not to love about that! In the fruit bowl you will find peaches, an apple, a banana and a pear, and so you can get an idea of the scale of these mini fruit here’s a photo with me holding some of them…
You can pick up your free copy of the pattern HERE.
Crochet Club is full of cool patterns for all skills levels and in this issue you get;
💙 Exclusive 8-ball bundle & 3.5mm hook 💚 68-page mag 💛 Tips & tricks from the UK’s top crochet designers ❤️ Crochet-along blanket pattern (part 2) 💜 Stories from other crochet fans
I know that the new issue of Crochet Club. magazine is on its way soon… So if you haven’t bought the current issue yet you might want to go visit the shops quick!
So has the title of today’s free amigurumi made you want to break out into song?
Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo! Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo!
Sorry about that! It kind of had to be done! You can thank my toddler for today’s earworm! If you have no idea what I’m talking about and the phenomena that is the Pingfong Baby Shark Song has passed you by – lucky you! The baby shark song is now reportedly listed as one of the Top 40 most-viewed videos songs ever on YouTube – and my two year old LOVES it!
You may remember me saying that every year I try to crochet my girls a little something for Christmas; I made my (now eight) year old a giant narwhal (get the free pattern here) and so keeping with the oceanic theme it seemed only appropriate that I make Little Miss a baby shark.
I actually made the whole shark out of what was left of the one ball of Marriners plain Super Chunky (in Silver) that I used for the narwhals tusk – so if you bought the yarn for the giant narwhal then you should have enough left over to make this ami too.
Designed with embroidered features this ami is perfect for little ones under 36 months – for older children or adults you could use safety eyes instead.
The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
Marriner Super Chunky (Silver – Yarn B) used in photos.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 6.5mm (US size K)
You will also need:
Stitch markers
A yarn needle
Polyester toy filler
Black yarn
Gauge: 7dc/sc = 8cm (3.1 inches)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but yarn amounts and finished size of projecy may differ if your gauge is different from mine.
Finished Size: 25cm (9.8 inches) from nose to tail
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US single crochet 2 together
Stitch Guidance:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog):
Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Using a stitch marker: Many parts of the narwhal are worked without joining in continuous rnds – place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.
Pattern:
Body:
Worked from tail to nose;
Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).
Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).
Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).
Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).
Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).
Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).
Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).
Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next seven sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).
Rnd 9: * 1dc/sc in next eight sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).
Rnds 10-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.
Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next eight sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).
Rnd 16: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.
Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next seven sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).
Rnd 18: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.
Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc in the next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).
Rnd 20: * 1dc/sc in the next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).
Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in the next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).
Rnd 22: * 1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).
Rnd 23: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.
Stuff the body
Then pressing rnd 23 sides closed sew together.
Side Fins (Make 2):
Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 5dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (5sts).
Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.
Rnd 3: 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st, 1dc/sc in the remaining two sts (6sts).
Rnd 4: 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (8sts).
Rnd 5: 2dc/sc in the next four sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (12sts).
Rnd 6: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail
Top Fin:
Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 4dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (4sts).
Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).
Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts).
Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts).
Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail (12sts).
Tail:
Rnd 1: Ch13; 1dc/sc in the second ch from the hook then 1dc/sc in each st until end, then working down the other side of the starting ch, 1dc/sc in each st. 24sts
Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail
Then pressing rnd 2 sides closed sew together.
Making up:
With black thread embroider eyes on between rnds 18-19 approx 5sts apart
With black thread embroider three gills on rnds 13-15 on each side of the body
Attach the side fins (with the curve pointing backwards) on each side of the shark over rnds 10-16 approx 7sts apart
Attach top fin on top of shark over rnds 15-9
Attach the centre of the tail piece vertically onto rnd 1 of the body.
Our stitch story crochet along journey is at an end! But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.
Now it’s time to fold up my blanket becauseI’m going to share some of the amazing finished Stitch Story Crochet blankets made by YOU!
But first I need to share Esther’s, from It’s All in A Nutshell, finished blanket! I know many of you really enjoyed Esther’s accompanying videos to the CAL and the link to her tutorials on her blog here (I’ve also added the link on the main CAL page). It’s so pretty in that colourway isn’t it (Scheepjes Riverwashed Shade Wheaton)!
I love that people have chosen to make blankets all in one colour like mine or multicoloured like my mums. All the colourways that were shared with me were fantastic and pretty but I have just selected a few different for inspiration purposes. So without further ado here are some unbelievably gorgeous blankets to feast your eyes on – and I’ve also added some of the stories the blanket owners have shared!
Made by Gerda for her daughter 💕
Made by Barbara and for her son who likes to steal this blanket to snuggle under! 💕
Ruby took joy in the creating of her beautiful blue blanket 💕
Made by Linda for her daughter who loved the gift 💕
Made in different tonal blues by Sara 💕
Lynn hooked 3 of each of the large blocks for her pretty blanket 💕
Elizabeth made only the little blocks and chose a lovely grouped arrangement 💕
Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I loved seeing your finished blankets 💕
I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! I’ll try not to turn it into too much of an Oscar speech but I feel it’s important to acknowledge all the people behind the scenes that helped make this CAL happen!
Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn for both blankets and so I could make this pattern for you. I need to thank Esther (It’s All in A Nutshell) for making the wonderful CAL video tutorials and to Iris who wonderfully translated the CAL from English to Dutch (which you can find on her blog Een Mooi Gebaar links to all the posts are here).
I need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible for you all to make! Big shout outs to Jean, Steff, Dianne, Peggy, Kim, Leanne, Olwyn, Kimberlie, Jenn, Dulcy and Marie!
Thanks as always to my eldest daughter for posing in photos for me (even without marshmallow bribes!) and to my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo!
And I can’t write this post without thanking the lady without whom I just wouldn’t have ever finished two blankets in time. My lovely mum! I love the fact that we did this together and thank you for helping me with my crochet story, for your weaving in ends prowess and for rolling up your sleeves to just help me get it done! 💕
To be the first to find out about the crochet along for 2019 (later this year) you might like to subscribe to the blog here (if you haven’t already), sign up to my newsletter and / or join the KCACOUK Community Facebook group.
Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!
Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!
So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…
Pattern:
This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry. There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).
Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy! However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.
A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
For support with the Stitch Story CAL on Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:
Social Media Links:
The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Joining your blocks together
First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design.
Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.
Top tips for joining:
When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.
Whip-stitch:
Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.
Slip stitch join:
Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.
Post Stitch Rib Border
I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.
Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.
Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed. I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).
Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join
Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends
Schematics
If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…
And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
