I’ve been awfully busy recently, with some secret squirrel projects, and so I started thinking about things that I COULD share. It occurred to me that I don’t always show any of the finished objects that I’ve made. I think it’s always nice to see what folks have finished isn’t it – I’m always checking people out (in a non creepy way) if I spy a bit of a crocheted item on their person, don’t you?
My Juniper Cowl by TL Yarn Crafts was definitely a case of me seeing someone else wearing it and deciding I needed to make one too! There was a period of time, when several of us, who attended the The Crochet Sanctuary, had a bit of a craze on Juniper Cowls. Everyone was making them, everyone was wearing them, and of course I couldn’t miss out on that.
There was so much inspiration to be had from all the fabulous ones I’d seen, but I thought I’d try something a little different to see if it would work. So the original pattern by the fabulous designer Toni Lipsey calls for 10 different coloured mini skeins of fingering weight yarn, and don’t get me wrong I’ve seen some fabulous variations using mini skeins, but as I’m trying to do a bit better at using up what I’ve got I wondered if a Scheepjes Whirl might work as a substitute.
Made from a 60% Cotton and 40% Acrylic blend, Scheepjes Whirl‘s are a favourite of mine to create accessories as they are simultaneously lightweight, breathable and have a beautiful drape.
They have a generous twist to enable speed while working the yarn and to help prevent splitting, and each colourway also has a unique twisted ply which adds to the distinctiveness of each colourway. I personally LOVE the way the colours blend together in these Whirls, it’s so subtle and the effects are usually gorgeous. The colour I used was a Woolly Whirl called Sugar Sizzle (shade 472), but any type of Whirl or colour I have no doubt would work.
Scheepjes Whirl yarn cakes are a fingering weight yarn (4ply) that are 1000 m / 215g which is more than enough for a shawl or wrap. So even though it was a bit less than the 250g of fingering weight / 4ply that the pattern calls for I thought it would work. The pattern calls for a 4mm (US size G/6) hook but as a Scheepjes Whirl is more suited to a smaller hook size I went with a 3.5mm (US size E/4) to see what would happen.
I find working on someone else’s pattern very relaxing because all the thinking has been done for me – and that was definitely the case with this project. It was my take out and about project coming with me on car journeys, the playpark and the hairdressers! It’s also a great mindful project to tackle whilst watching TV or listening to a good audio book.
I really enjoyed making this cowl, and I love how it turned out. It’s a great pattern! I have to say it’s a finished item that I’ve used regularly since I’ve worn it. I might just have to make another at some point, though this time I think I’ll defiantly be looking at what hand dyed mini’s I’ve got because that would just be such a delicious project.
Do you have a favourite finished object that you’ve made recently? I’d love to hear about it – let me know in the comments below.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m super excited to be joining forces again with the lovely and talented yarn dyer Kitey, aka The Yarn Whisperer, to bring you a brand new summer make-along.
This is our SIXTH collaboration in our make-along series (you can see a round up of all CALs and MALs here) and as always offers a chance to use some wonderful hand-dyed yarn combined with a fun summery crochet project.
Imagine you are sitting on a deck chair at the beach; you are feeling that joyous light-hearted feeling of a being on holiday; no work, just time to recline and relax. The waves are crashing against the shore and you can hear the sounds of chatter and laughter in the distance as the sun softly warms your face.
You are enjoying the anticipation of someone bringing you your favourite ice-cream but while you wait you decide to open up your project bag to start that new WIP. There is a light breeze that gently moves your yarn as you take out the ball and your hook and you hear the call of a seagull as it flies by overhead…
Join us as we take part in the Graceful Gull Make Along!
If you are not sure what a MAL is, you can read more on the MAL landing page here, but Kitey and I have actually had this planned since last years Christmas collab (and we may have already planned more projects into 2024 – we do get a bit over excited when we start talking!)
This time around we are going to be making a shawlette, which I’m not going to show you yet, and I’m not going to give away too much about the project, but what I will say is that I really, really love everything about it and can’t wait to share it with you!
An exclusive pattern and kit are being created for this extra special MAL. Each kit will include the following super washed merino 4ply (Sock weight) yarn;
1x 100g / 425m skein of natural
2x 50g / 212m skeins of two exclusive hand-dyed colourways
1 x 20g / 85m of another exclusive hand-dyed colourway
Pre-ordered kits will be available for £45 + postage, and can be made on The Yarn Whisperer website from 10 am on 9th May and if you order in the first 24 hours you can enjoy a 10% Early Bird discount.
AND if you order your kit in the first 24 hours you can enjoy a 10% Early Bird discount.
Kits will be dyed to order over the coming weeks, with generally a 1 week turn-around from order to shipping. But get in quick to ensure you get yours in plenty of time to crochet along with us!
Last International orders will be shipped by 25th June if ordered by the end of May. UK orders will continue to be shipped after this date but ordering early ensures your kit arrives in plenty of time to join us on 31st July.
The Make Along will run from 31st July to 15th September for a nice relaxed project with plenty of time for you to make the pattern. You can of course start the pattern at anytime you wish, this deadline is just there for those that like to have one.
I’ve put together all the details for this particular MAL on a landing page which you can find here, or find via the top menu of this blog under the tab ‘CALS AND MALS’.
There will be support for the pattern as usual in my Facebook group; the KCACO-UK Crochet Community Group. You can also pop in and join in with the Virtual Stitch-n-B*tch sessions hosted by Kitey on Tuesday’s evenings from 5.20pm GMT (see full details on Kitey’s Insta page). These sessions are a bit like going to a virtual knit and natter group, and everyone there is really lovely and helpful.
We look forward to you sharing your WIPs with us and we will be using hashtags #GracefulGullMAL #kcacouk and #yarnwhisperer if you want to tag us on socials – we love to see what you make.
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I’m delighted to say I’ve got another nostalgic pattern for you today from the world of the Clangers! As all Clanger fans know, their favourite food is soup – and who makes that soup? It’s the Soup Dragon!
If you aren’t familiar with The Clangers, it’s a classic BBC British stop-motion pre-school children’s tv series. It’s about a family of knitted mice-like creatures who live on a small moon-like blue planet.
Now I’m not old enough to remember the original series (which ran between 1969-74), but when I had my eldest daughter my mother-in-law bought us a DVD of The Clangers, which we watched together so the Clangers have a special place in my heart – as they do for many people!
You may remember that I designed a sweet “Clanger” themed mobile for Issue 79 of Crochet Now and now I’m delighted to have created another favourite character from the show, The Soup Dragon in a puppet form. The Soup Dragon: a benign, female creature with a penchant for Green Soup. Clangers only eat green soup which is supplied by the Soup Dragon harvested from the planet’s volcanic soup wells.
The finished puppet is approx. 25 cm (9.8 inches) from nose to cuff and will fit little hands easily; it will also stretch to accommodate adult hands too for adult / child playtime.
For my Soup Dragon puppet I used some Stylecraft Special DK with a 4mm hook in 8 different colours. I think many of us have a Stylecraft stash of yarn for various projects, it’s such a versatile yarn with an amazing selection of shades that cover the whole rainbow several times over. It’s an 100% acrylic yarn that is hard-wearing and machine washable – making it great for toys!
If you make up the The Soup Dragon Puppet I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, the Dýnami Cable Earwarmer. A great first crochet cable project to create a quick cosy headband.
The idea for this headband came about all because of my friend Sharon who is currently raising money for MIND as she prepares to run the London Marathon (you can watch some of her prep YouTube videos here). As part of her fundraising she was doing a few coffee morning sales, where cake and crochet were combined, and a few of her crochet friends were going to donate some crochet items to help her raise some funds.
As we chatted about what we could provide I got to thinking about headbands / ear warmers, something that runners could potentially use, and plus it’s a cute and cosy accessory for us non-runners out there! So I put my name down for some ear warmers and decided to come up with a brand new design in honour of Sharon’s venture.
The name of the headband ‘dýnami’ comes from the word ‘strength’ in Greek as I was thinking about marathons and having that stamina to run 26.2 miles (42km) – I couldn’t do it so thank goodness for people like Sharon who have the focus and dedication! Plus MIND is a great charity to raise money for, I’m sure everyone knows someone who’s life has been touched by mental health challenges – I know mine has.
So as I’m on a bit of a yarn ban this year (because I seriously have enough yarn to fill a shop) instead of buying I went stash diving for these headbands. I knew I wanted something wool, as wool has the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature, which I thought would be useful if you did want to use the headband whilst out for a run.
In my ample stash I found a load of different colours of Drops LIMA Mix. I actually have no idea what my original plan was for the yarn, as they were a few random different colours, but it was pretty much exactly what I was looking for to create the ear warmers. I would suggest that a solid shade yarn, rather than a variegated yarn, would work best for this patterns so you can see the textured cables.
I actually don’t know why I haven’t used the Drops LIMA Mix before now because it’s LOVELY! I thoroughly enjoyed crocheting with it. The DK (8ply / Light Worsted) yarn comes in 50g (100m / 109yds) balls and is a squishy mix of 65% Wool and 35% Alpaca which is beautifully soft and pleasant to work with.
Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.
Before we get to the pattern if you would like to contribute to Sharon’s fundraising for MIND, before 23 April 2023, then you can on her specific charity page although this pattern is free, if you purchase the PDF pattern before this date any income generated I will pass over for MIND too.
The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Materials
Skill Level: 3 – Intermediate
Yarn: Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light),
50g (100m) Drops LIMA mix
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
A single 50g ball will make 1 adult ladies sized headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.
Finished Sizes:
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Front post double treble (FPdtr):
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Pattern Notes
The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st
Pattern
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 50g / 100m / 109yds of Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light)
Yarn Used in photos:
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades:
Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
About the yarn:
Drops Lima Mix; DK; 50g / 100m / 109yds65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
A single 50g ball will make one headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G/6).
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished size: Guidance provided for adjusting the headband for different sizes given in the pattern.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
PATTERN NOTES
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
PATTERN
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / and last st of a row.
Row 1 (RS): Ch17, 1htr in the 4th ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, miss 2sts from the last st worked on current row and 4 sts two rows below [FPdtr around the post of the next 2sts, then working back over the FPdtr you’ve just made, FPdtr in the two missed sts], 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, 1htr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, [FPdtr around the post of the 4sts (the FPdtr) two rows below, 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Repeat rows 2 – 5 for the pattern;
Approximate measurements given below for different sizes, however for best fit measure the head in question and work until the band measures 1cm / 0.4 inches smaller than required as the headband will stretch.
For sizes greater than the largest size please note you will need more than one ball of yarn.
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Fasten off the yarn on your last row but leave a long yarn tail attached.
FINISHING
Join the two ends of the headband together with the right sides facing each other.
Loosely slip stitch along the row, pushing your hook through both layers of the headband for each stitch, so that you create a seam.
Thread the tail of the yarn through a darning needle and sew a couple of stitches before trimming off the excess. Turn the headband right side out.
And that’s it, enjoy your new headband!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I’m excited to say I’m going to be taking part in a new crochet blog hop! From 3 – 22 MarchMadame Stitch is hosting a blog hop featuring 22 fabulous crochet designers.
Each day beginning tomorrow, Friday 3 March, at 1pm UK time (8am ET), a crochet wrap, scarf or cowl design will be featured on the Madame Stitch blog.
AND you lovely crocheters will be able to get the pattern as a free PDF download for 24 hrs with the coupon code that will be provided!
In this Spring Edition of the Wraps, Scarves and Cowls blog hop, you’ll find crochet women’s accessories for all your needs. You might want something that:
Adds a dash of color to your favorite outfit.
Wraps you in warmth on a cool spring day.
Creates an elegant evening look for a night out on the town.
There are some really fabulous designs on offer in this blog hop!
I’m going to leave it as a surprise as to which day of March is my day, and what my design is, but I can say it’s a brand NEW cowl design made with some very fabulous yarn from one of my favourite yarn dyers – I think that was quite a big hint! Can you guess which one it is?
If you can’t wait for everyday in March, because you want things now, then there is also an option to purchase the pattern bundle for ALL the patterns from the blog hop for just £12.50 ($15)
It includes all 22 designs featured in the blog hop in one bundle that you can download to your favourite device. You’ll then be able to print out individual patterns as your convenience.
This pattern bundle of crochet women’s accessories won’t last for long. It will only be available until Sunday, 26 March2023.
So make sure you visit the Madame Stitch roundup post every day from 3rd through to the 24th March to pick that day’s featured pattern PDF absolutely free! And be sure to give my fellow designers some love as they share their work on each of the blog hop days.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.
How are you all doing? Are you ready for Part 6 of the CAL?
I’ve so enjoyed watching the pinecones develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!
Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
So let’s get down to Part 6 then shall we, this week we are going to be adding some mushrooms to our Enchanted Wood.
I always thing that mushrooms are a fascinating and diverse feature of woodlands, many species can be spotted all year round and there are hundreds of different types. Fungi are the main decomposers the woods breaking down dead plants, basically it feeds itself by digesting organic matter which it then returns as nutrients to the soil. Clever little things, so I thought they needed a place in our blanket.
As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 160g / 400m / 437yds or 2 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Celery (7155) – YARN H or alternatively 2 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Pistachio (1822) – YARN F
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 6 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 84cm (33”) wide x 104cm (40.9”) long
In Special DK: 85.5cm (33.5”) wide x 103.5cm (40.5”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Seven Treble Cluster (7trCl): Work 7 trebles into one stitch.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 6
PATTERN – PART 6
You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;
With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1tr in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1tr in the corner of Part 4, BPtr in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1tr in the corner of Part 4, 2tr around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 tr / 123 BPtr / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 139 tr / 46 x ch1-sps
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in each st across, turn. 185 tr
Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the
next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 2sts. 70 tr / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF
Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next tr] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, 1dc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7trCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 dc
Row 6: Ch6 (counts as tr + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre tr of the 7trCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1htr in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre of the 7trCl, miss 3sts, 1tr in the last st, turn. 2tr / 22 htr / 23 dc / 46 x ch3-sps
Row 7: Ch3, [ 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next htr ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the last st, turn. 185 tr
Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7
Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Seven Double Crochet Cluster (7dcCl): Work 7 double crochet into one stitch.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SCHEMATIC – PART 6
PATTERN – PART 6
You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;
· With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
· We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
· The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
· The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
· You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
· If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).
Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1dc in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1dc in the corner of Part 4, BPdc in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1dc in the corner of Part 4, 2dc around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 dc / 123 BPdc / 185 sts
Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 139 dc / 46 x ch1-sps
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in each st across, turn. 185 dc
Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts. 70 dc / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF
Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next dc] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, 1sc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7dcCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 sc
Row 6: Ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre dc of the 7dcCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1hdc in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre of the 7dcCl, miss 3sts, 1dc in the last st, turn. 2dc / 22 hdc / 23 sc / 46 x ch3-sps
Row 7: Ch3, [ 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next hdc ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the last st, turn. 185 dc
Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7
Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it! Part 6 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your mushrooms sprout from Parts 4 and 5!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
I had the pleasure of actually meeting Catherine at the end of last year, when I was a guest, and she was the guest designer at The Crochet Sanctuary. You will have no doubt come across her work, as I did, on social media and in magazines – she really has an eye for design using colour work and tapestry crochet.
I was delighted to have a go at her methods of tapestry crochet as we worked on her Winter Flora Cushion as our Crochet Sanctuary crochet workshop project. I thoroughly enjoyed making the cushion, and the tapestry stitch technique, so I wanted to find out a bit more about her designing processes and about her in general. Here’s what we chatted about…
Tell us a bit about yourself.
Hi Heather! Thanks for inviting me for this interview. It was great to meet you in November at the Crochet Sanctuary and chat all things “crochet designing” with you!
I’m a crochet designer from just outside London, in the UK. I live with my husband and two daughters. As you mentioned, I specialise in tapestry crochet. I absolutely love designing blankets with this technique although I’ve also produced a number of cushion and accessory designs too.
Yes, I’ve always loved crafts. I dabbled in lots of things as a child and my friends were really arty too so we inspired each other and were always making things. I took pottery classes for a few years, which I loved, and also tried lots of other arts and crafts like Fimo, calligraphy, quilling, painting, stamping, cross stitch… I don’t actually think I was particularly yarny as a child though, although I did learn the basics of how to knit.
How did you become a crochet designer? Do you do it full time?
I guess I fell into it a bit by chance really. I started crocheting when my youngest daughter was a toddler, mainly making blankets (with plenty of mistakes in them!). One day, I saw a tapestry crochet scarf online and I absolutely loved the look of it. I’d never seen that kind of crochet before. I thought it would be fabulous to make a blanket with lots of different tapestry crochet patterns on it. And so I came up with the Geo Georgie Blanket. It got a really great response from the crochet community on Instagram, which encouraged me to keep going with more designs and things just spiralled upwards from there.
Sadly, I don’t do it full-time, although I wish I could! I mainly fit it in during my evenings and weekends, and the odd lunchtime crochet break too!
You really seem to enjoy colourwork and tapestry crochet – what is it about that style of crochet that you love?
I love patterns and spot them all over the place. I find it really exciting recreating these patterns in crochet, and tapestry crochet is the perfect technique for this. I especially love taking a motif, like a square or hexagon, with a colour work pattern on it and repeating it over a large blanket to create an even more striking pattern.
Can you tell us about where you draw your inspiration from?
Some is from nature – I really like leaves and flowers – and some is more abstract like pure geometric patterns. I see a lot of inspiration on textile items or even ceramic tiles, that I then love to try recreating with crochet.
What does your design process look like? Do you sketch things out first, or do you just like to grab a hook and start?
I always sketch first. I use a lot of squared paper as I find this is essential when coming up with a tapestry crochet design. I usually draw out a design on squared paper first and then work up a test swatch or motif from that. Mostly, it turns out a bit different to how I expected once I’ve worked it up in crochet, so I make a few tweaks and try again until I’m happy with it.
Sometimes, I plunge straight into making the project and write it all up at the end. However, recently I’ve been getting much better at making notes and starting to write it up as I go along. That saves a lot of time at the end!
Do you have a favourite creation that you’ve designed?
That’s a tough one! Can I pick two?
My personal favourite is my Clarissa Blanket. Both the colours and the pattern are so me. This was a design that I just couldn’t help but make!
However, in terms of getting me started and known as a designer, then I have to say my Midnight Diamond Blanket. This is by far my most popular pattern and I’m so grateful for the wonderful response it’s had and continues to receive.
How do you fit everything in that you want to? Are you strict with yourself and your time or is it a struggle to juggle?
I never fit in everything that I’d like to! But I just do my best to do as much as I can and never miss an opportunity to work a bit more on a project. I make a lot of lists – I find that helps a lot – and I try not to be too hard on myself at not being able to do everything I want to straight away.
What advice or top tips would you suggest for anyone new to colourwork or tapestry crochet?
I’d say that it’s really not as hard as it looks. Watch or read a tutorial first, to get a feel for it. There are lots out there but I have a video tutorial on YouTube or a step-by-step guide on my blog that are both good places to start. Then just dive in with a pattern. I outlined a few relatively simple ones to start with in a blog post if anyone needs some inspiration.
Once you’ve got the hang of it, if you’d like to design your own, then all you need is some squared paper and colouring pencils and away you go!
What can we expect to see from Catherine Crochets in 2023?
This year, I’ve decided to focus on blankets as I love them and they are also my most popular patterns. I’m working on a new floral design at the moment using hexagons, which I’m really excited about.
I’m also hoping to create a tapestry crochet course with a series of patterns of increasing complexity, each introducing a new skill or aspect. That will be quite a big project for me of course, but I’m hoping to start work on it later this spring.
And just for fun if you could have a superpower what would you choose?
I’ve always loved the idea of the time turner that Hermione uses in the Harry Potter books. It would be great to have the power to turn back time so that I could fit more crochet into each day!
I’d just like to take this opportunity to thank Catherine for taking time to chat to me. I’ve really enjoyed getting a better understanding of her life and designing process and hope you have too.
If you enjoyed this interview you can catch up on all the other designer chats and discussions with other people in the fiber industry. And if there’s any other people you’d like to maybe see featured here on the blog, let me know in the comments and I’ll see what I can do.
Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts like this one, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Get your little ones hooked on Peanuts early with these adorable official Snoopy and Woodstock baby blanket loveys – out now in issue 91 of Crochet Now magazine
Stars of the Charles M. Schulz’s comic strip Peanuts, and later TV and movies, Snoopy is best known as the pet beagle of Charlie Brown and the small yellow bird, Woodstock, is Snoopy’s best friend. Everybody loves Snoopy and all fans of the iconic series will adore these super soft and cuddly lovey blankets.
There are so many options for little blankets for babies to cuddle and the right toy will do wonders for your kid’s comfort and confidence – my eldest fixed on a lovey as her ‘toy of choice’ so I personally think they are a great toy to make and gift.
I created Snoopy and Woodstock out of some Stylecraft Special DK which is 100% acrylic that comes in 100g balls [295 meters / 323yds] balls, it’s a yarn I’m very familiar with, one I’ve used so many times for different projects including this years crochet along. The only other things you need to make Snoopy and Woodstock is some, stitch markers, a tapestry needle and some toy stuffing.
The lovey section and the tops (hands and arms) are made in the round, working in the amigurumi style of continuous rounds without joining, they would make great beginners patterns for someone who’d like to try making an amigurumi.
Issue 91, with my little Snoopy and Woodstock on the front cover, is full of lovely seasonal patterns and is available to buy from most supermarkets. Or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines
If you make up either Snoopy or Woodstock I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
EDITED: Giveaway now closed, congratulations to; Ann C, Tracey L, Charlie P, @Catherinecrochets and @shearsfiona
How would you like to win some FREE tickets to The Stitch Festival which returns to the Business Design Centre, Islington, London from 23-26 March 2023?
London’s hottest event for contemporary stitchers is back! The annual four-day creative extravaganza is a ‘must go’ for craft fans, with more than 230 hands-on workshops hosted by top tutors, designers and makers.
Dressmaking, upcycling and slow fashion are a major focus for The Stitch Festival, with a dedicated Dressmaking Studio (sponsored by Brother), an overlocker workshop programme, and a Dressmaking Competition that shines a spotlight on the skills and talents of home dressmakers. Open to sewists of all levels, there are categories for Eveningwear, Loungewear, Childrenswear, Knitwear and Crochetwear, Upcycled or Repurposed garments, and new for 2023, Menswear.
Eagle-eyed judges from the worlds of fashion and textiles (past judges have included Esme Young, Lisa Comfort and Nerrisa Pratt) will be looking for excellence in technical skills, stitching and creative flair. With prizes for category winners, a Janome Sewing Machine worth £650 for ‘Best in Competition’, and a Finalists’ Fashion Show on Sunday 26 March, Stitch Festival visitors can expect some exciting highlights. Competition entry submissions must be made by Friday 24 February 2023. For full entry information, visit www.thestitchfestival.co.uk/dressmaking-competition/
There are yarny things to look forward to too at the Festival. This year crochet designer Katie Jones has designed The Stitch Festival’s Crochet Lounge where she will be hosting crochet lessons and book signings. There are also so many workshops, just search ‘Crochet’ for a list of all the hooky ones – or try your hand at a new craft. In terms of crochet they include sessions on Mosaic crochet, Tunisian Crochet, Broomstick crochet lace and Freeform crochet to name a few.
Textile artist Jen Cable’s project, Knitted Lives, will be a celebration of contemporary knitting, exploring the lives and stories of everyday knitters, while best-selling author and craft entrepreneur, Isabella Strambio, will be inviting Festival goers to awaken their creativity as she shares her passion for macrame.
Looking for inspiration for new projects? The Festival’s Stitch Stage features free demonstrations, presentations and Q&As with some favourite faces from the knit and stitch world. On Saturday 25 March, the Instagram Makers’ Catwalk features garments made and modelled by talented Insta makers, supported by independent pattern makers and fabric companies.
Last but not least, there’s shopping, with more than 150 specialist retailers under one roof and special Stitch Festival deals to be had, plus all that vibrant Islington has to offer with its stores, restaurants, bars and cafes. Hot and cold refreshments are available throughout the venue, with seating areas for picnics.
Although I can’t make it to this particular show, I’ve enjoyed the visits to these Stitching Shows in the past. If you fancy a read about those experiences you can read about themhere and here.
Stitch20
So on with the bit you’ve been waiting for! The giveaway details! I’ve got FIVE pairs of tickets to giveaway hurray!!! I’m giving away THREE pairs away here on the blog and TWO pairs away on Instagram.
GIVEAWAY
All you need to do to enter the giveaway is either leave a comment on the bottom of this blog post about why you’d like to go to the show or do the same over on my Instagram post.
The competition closes on Wednesday 1st February at 7pm (GMT). Winners will be contacted via the email supplied from their comment or by DM on social media.
Tickets are valid after 10am on Thursday 23rd, Friday 24th, Saturday 25th or Sunday 26th March. The organisers will not issue paper tickets. Winners will be emailed a link to register online with a unique code per pair of tickets and will receive e-tickets by email. When entering this competition you must be therefore happy to provide me with a your email address for this purpose, your email address will not be used in any other way.
However if you want some tickets now scroll down for an exclusive special offer!
Advance adult tickets for The Stitch Festival are £16.50 from Thursday to Saturday (concessions £15, children aged 5-18 years £7.50) – transaction fees apply. Full ticket information is available at The Stitch Festival website www.thestitchfestival.co.uk. Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment. Opening hours are 10am-5.30pm on Thursday-Saturday and 10am-3pm on Sunday. Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment.
But if you want your ticket RIGHT NOW I’ve also got a special discount for you! Just quote: CROCHETON23to get £2 off advance adult tickets /and concessions.
Please note that the discount ends at 23.59pm on Wednesday 22 March 2023.
I’d like to say a big thank you again to the shows organisers for offering this special deal to my lovely KCACO.UK readers!
Good Luck everyone!
Stay connected
I’d love to stay connected with you so please do sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, giveaways, special offers or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!
The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!
This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.
As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 1 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st
PATTERN – PART 1
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts
Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 5:
Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts, miss 10sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog
See diagram help below for row 7:
Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts, miss 12sts two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 9:
Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 11:
Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 13:
Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 15:
Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.
See diagram help below for row 17:
Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.
Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs
See diagram help below for rows 25.
Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs
Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs
Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs
Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts
Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs
Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs
Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs
Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs
Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts
On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.
BORDER:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ] once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total
Rnd 2: Ch1, then work 1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st
PATTERN – PART 1
· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts
Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 5:
Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts, miss 10sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog
See diagram help below for row 7:
Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts, miss 12sts two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 9:
Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 11:
Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 13:
Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 15:
Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.
See diagram help below for row 17:
Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.
Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs
See diagram help below for rows 25.
See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.
Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs
Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs
Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs
Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts
Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs
Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs
Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs
Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs
Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts
On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.
BORDER:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ] once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total
Rnd 2: Ch1, then work 1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts, (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
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