Free Crochet Pattern | Dýnami Cable Earwarmer

Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, the Dýnami Cable Earwarmer. A great first crochet cable project to create a quick cosy headband.

A young women models the crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

The idea for this headband came about all because of my friend Sharon who is currently raising money for MIND as she prepares to run the London Marathon (you can watch some of her prep YouTube videos here). As part of her fundraising she was doing a few coffee morning sales, where cake and crochet were combined, and a few of her crochet friends were going to donate some crochet items to help her raise some funds.

As we chatted about what we could provide I got to thinking about headbands / ear warmers, something that runners could potentially use, and plus it’s a cute and cosy accessory for us non-runners out there! So I put my name down for some ear warmers and decided to come up with a brand new design in honour of Sharon’s venture.

The name of the headband ‘dýnami’ comes from the word ‘strength’ in Greek as I was thinking about marathons and having that stamina to run 26.2 miles (42km) – I couldn’t do it so thank goodness for people like Sharon who have the focus and dedication! Plus MIND is a great charity to raise money for, I’m sure everyone knows someone who’s life has been touched by mental health challenges – I know mine has.

Image of the crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

So as I’m on a bit of a yarn ban this year (because I seriously have enough yarn to fill a shop) instead of buying I went stash diving for these headbands. I knew I wanted something wool, as wool has the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature, which I thought would be useful if you did want to use the headband whilst out for a run.

In my ample stash I found a load of different colours of Drops LIMA Mix. I actually have no idea what my original plan was for the yarn, as they were a few random different colours, but it was pretty much exactly what I was looking for to create the ear warmers. I would suggest that a solid shade yarn, rather than a variegated yarn, would work best for this patterns so you can see the textured cables.

Image of some Drops Lima Mix yarn and a work in progress crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

I actually don’t know why I haven’t used the Drops LIMA Mix before now because it’s LOVELY! I thoroughly enjoyed crocheting with it. The DK (8ply / Light Worsted) yarn comes in 50g (100m / 109yds) balls and is a squishy mix of 65% Wool and 35% Alpaca which is beautifully soft and pleasant to work with.

Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

Before we get to the pattern if you would like to contribute to Sharon’s fundraising for MIND, before 23 April 2023, then you can on her specific charity page although this pattern is free, if you purchase the PDF pattern before this date any income generated I will pass over for MIND too.

Pin this project for later:

Dýnami Cable Earwarmer

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Materials

Skill Level: 3 – Intermediate

Yarn: Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light),

50g (100m) Drops LIMA mix

Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610

A single 50g ball will make 1 adult ladies sized headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 4mm (US size G/6)

You will also need:

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.

Finished Sizes:

Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)

Stitch Guidance

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Front post double treble (FPdtr):
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

Pattern Notes

The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st

Pattern

MATERIALS

Yarn Required: 50g / 100m / 109yds of Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light)

Yarn Used in photos:

Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades:

Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610

About the yarn:

Drops Lima Mix; DK; 50g / 100m / 109yds 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca

A single 50g ball will make one headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.

Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G/6).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.

You will also need:

· A yarn needle

· Stitch Markers

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished size: Guidance provided for adjusting the headband for different sizes given in the pattern.

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.

PATTERN NOTES

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified

PATTERN

The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / and last st of a row.

Row 1 (RS): Ch17, 1htr in the 4th ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, miss 2sts from the last st worked on current row and 4 sts two rows below [FPdtr around the post of the next 2sts, then working back over the FPdtr you’ve just made, FPdtr in the two missed sts], 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, 1htr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, [FPdtr around the post of the 4sts (the FPdtr) two rows below, 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts

Repeat rows 2 – 5 for the pattern;

Approximate measurements given below for different sizes, however for best fit measure the head in question and work until the band measures 1cm / 0.4 inches smaller than required as the headband will stretch.

For sizes greater than the largest size please note you will need more than one ball of yarn.

Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)

Fasten off the yarn on your last row but leave a long yarn tail attached.

FINISHING

Join the two ends of the headband together with the right sides facing each other.
Loosely slip stitch along the row, pushing your hook through both layers of the headband for each stitch, so that you create a seam.
Thread the tail of the yarn through a darning needle and sew a couple of stitches before trimming off the excess. Turn the headband right side out.

And that’s it, enjoy your new headband!

Partial chart for the Dynami Cable Earwarmer in UK Terms

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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8Nov2017

Poppy Brooch | Free Crochet Pattern

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

In 2013 I made a little poppy brooch to commemorate Remembrance Day. I’ve used that photo for the last 4 years as my post on social media on the 11th hour, of the 11th day and over the years I’ve had many people ask about a pattern. Now at the time I didn’t write down the pattern, I was just playing and made something up, but at the Knitting and Stitching Show you may recall I bought a lovely box filled with Scheepjes Catona Cutie Pies and whilst I was a bit loath to open the box I thought they would be just perfect to try and recreate my poppy brooch.

This free pattern is to help anyone crocheting poppies to raise money for The Royal British Legion.

Poppy Brooch

Add the this pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue here.

Yarn

Scheepjes Catona Cutie Pie 10g balls in the following colours:

Poppy Rose (Shade 390)
Jet Black (Shade 110)
Small Trimmits Black Seed Beads (Optional)
Brooch pin (with sieve backing) or normal brooch pin

Hook: 2.75mm hook (US size C)

Difficulty: Easy

Size: 5cm long x 3cm wide (2″ long x 1.1″ wide)

Gauge: Is not important for this item

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc= UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc= UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc= UK treble / US double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Instructions:

The poppy brooch is worked in the round placing a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch to mark start of round.

Rnd 1: With black; start with either a magic ring or ch2 and work in 2nd ch from hook, work 6dc/sc into the ring. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc/sc in each st around. 12sts

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 3: Rejoin red yarn to any st, ch1 and work 1dc/sc in same st as beginning ch1, and then working around the poppy *2htr/hdc in the next st, 3tr/dc in the next st,, 2htr/hdc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the next st * repeat from * to * once more, 1dc/sc in the last st. 20sts
Rnd 4: 2dc/sc in the next st and working round the poppy; 1htr/hdc in the next st , 2tr/dc in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next st, 3tr/dc in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2htr/hdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 3htr/hdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the last st. 28sts
Rnd 5: Sl St around the whole of the outside of the flower, fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing:

Sew on seed beads to the middle of the brooch (optional)
Line the poppy with felt (optional)
Add a brooch back onto the back of your brooch

And that’s it!

I hope you enjoy this little brooch. I can’t wait to yours! Make sure you link me your finished projects on Ravelry or your favourite social media (Facebook Twitter, and Instagram) and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

23Mar2017

The Little Yellow Duck Project

Posted in Amigurumi, Crochet, Free Patterns, Inspiration by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Back in February 2015 I blogged about The Little Yellow Duck Project which I had just learnt about. If you haven’t heard about the project before it involves people around the world handcrafting little yellow duck gifts as random acts of kindness that are then left in public places for others to find. A special tag on each one of the ducks invites the finder to take their gift home to brighten their day and to visit the The Little Yellow Duck Project website to register where they found their gift. The Little Yellow Duck Project is a global initiative highlighting the life-saving donation of blood, bone marrow, and organ and tissue.

I made ten little ducks to support the project and hid them all over everywhere – even taking some with me to hide when I went away for a couple of weekends so that they would be spread out far and wide. You can see all the ducks I made in my original post here.

Excitingly a couple of months later someone posted a photo to say that they had found one of my ducks which had prompted them to fill in an application form to be a blood donor! What an amazing feeling that was! And so nice to find out what had happened to a duck that had been hidden.

After I had finished making and hiding my pledge of little ducks I offered my services as a designer to The Little Yellow Duck Project to create a new free duckling crochet pattern which they could use…and not long after Doodle the Duckling was born!

Well one of the lovely people at the project contacted me this week to say that the pattern had never gone live on their website (although they thought it had). Needless to say they were mortified – but I know only too well how technology can be a fickle mistress (as I find out ever time I schedule a post when I’m on holiday…every. single. time!). All is now fixed however and you can now find Doodle the Duckling under the Crochet Pattern section of their website. If you want to add Doodle the Duckling to your Ravelry queue or favourite him so you can make him later then use this link here.

I hope you do check out The Little Yellow Duck Project when you get a moment – as well as crochet patterns they have knitting, sewing and machine embroidery patterns you use to support them if you fancy a different craft.

And just to finish off I’ll end with a photo of Little G from a year or so ago when she got to meet some real life little yellow ducklings…because too cute right!

Until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

23Nov2016

Free Pattern | Easy Cuff Mitts

Posted in Crochet, For Adult, For Child, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

The weather is just cold enough for a new hand warming crochet project don’t you think! Fingerless gloves are fantastic for keeping you cosy whilst still allowing you the important use of your digits. That’s where my new free pattern comes in…introducing the Easy Cuff Mitts! These mitts are a quick and simple pattern that you can make with less than 1 ball (100g / 295m / 322yds) of Aran (Worsted) weight yarn.

It’s also super easy to create a custom fit, make as long or as short as you wish just working in multiples of 2. You can create the mitts in minutes and use up some of your scrap yarn stash at the same time. Beginners…this is a great project for you!

Make chic looking mitts by using block colours and simple buttons or have some fun using variegated yarn and contrasting buttons to create something special and unique. The colour combinations are virtually endless – I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue and Favourites. Why not whip up a pair for you or a friend today!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

10Aug2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Patterns, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

30Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

14Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

Posted in Afghan Square, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

29Jun2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s)= stitch(es)
sp= space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
PC= Popcorn
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.

15Jun2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 12

Posted in Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Stitches, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Oooo time for part 12 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Cats-Claw-Stripes-Hebrew

Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:

During the stylish 1960’s and 70’s it was very fashionable and perfectly legal in the UK to keep exotic animals as household pets, these ranged from leopards, pumas and panthers! However in 1976 the UK Government introduced the Dangerous Wild Animals Act to protect the public and ensure the animals we’re looked after properly.

When I was younger I used to live pretty much next to Cannock Chase where there was a rumour of a panther at large – my brother and I had much fun scaring each other with tales of the beast roaming the ancient woodlands looking for juicy children to eat! So this weeks section of the groovyghan is inspired by the claws of these big cats!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Row width = 50 inches / 127 cm
Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
FPttr / FPdtr = UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet
BPttr / BPdtr = UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet (FPttr / FPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.
UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet (BPttr / BPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.

Pattern:

Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last tr/dc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (103 tr/dc / 64 BPttr/BPdtr)

Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 10: Attach YARN E in the top of the last st made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr).

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN E and weave in ends (167 sts)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

COMING SOON!

Apologies for not having the chart ready yet – you’ll have to blame the baby ;o)

Blocking:

As Part 12 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 12 directly to parts 8-10 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial: Cats Claw Stripes

Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last htr/hdc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

And that’s it! Part 12 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 13 to be released on 29 June 2016.

1Jun2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 11

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Ooo our first block in a brand new month! Part 11 is inspired by the Royal Air Force roundel, a mod symbol of the swinging 60’s.

For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun. You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Mod-Spot-5-inch-Square-Hebrew-final (2)

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 11: Mod-Spot 5 inch block (make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Guidance:

Surface crochet: Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.

Pattern:

I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).

Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,

ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)