Wow! I can’t even say how it feels to be sharing with you the last part of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along today! Over the last 12 weeks – we have worked together to build some AMAZING blankets together, and I hope you have enjoyed the CAL as much as I enjoyed designing it for you. Below you will find the very last 4 rounds of our blanket *sniff sniff*.

As you maybe aware unfortunately there were a few errors discovered in Part 11 – these have been amended here on the blog and on Ravelry. In addition I’ve also added an extra chart as an example for the corner of Part 11 as somebody mentioned that would be useful.

Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 11’s. Not as many to share yet this week as I know Part 11 was the biggest part of the whole CAL, and it might take some people a little bit longer to finish up their blankets. The photos below have been taken from Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.

If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

❤️🧡💛 Purchase Yarn Kit from Black Sheep Wools 💚💙💜

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL eBooklet on Ravelry 💚💙💜

If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.

Filet Fantastic: Part 12 – The Border

335g / 871m  or 4 balls of of Scheepjes River Washed Steenbras (Shade  942) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Meppel (1061).

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle

Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  175cm / 1.75m (699 inches / 5ft 7 inches) squared

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Treble 5 together (tr5tog): The Treble Crochet 5 Together is a technique uses a series of trebles into one stitch to create a cluster.  To tr5tog, work 5tr all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
• Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 12

Part 12 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3tr, ch2, 2tr) on rnd 3.

Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then work 1BPtr in each st and (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2tr, ch2, 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300trs each side)

Rnd 2: Ch3, 1tr in each st around with  [2tr,ch2, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216trs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304trs each side)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts,  * ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1tr in the next st  [3tr,ch3, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828trs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207trs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of tr5tog) complete tr5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the tr5tog (picot made), ch3, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), tr5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, tr5tog, ch3, sl st to top of tr5tog, ch5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning tr5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x tr5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x tr5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).

Chart for sections of Part 12 below *

Pattern in US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Back Post Double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): The Double crochet  5 Together is a technique uses a series of double crochets into one stitch to create a cluster.  To dc5tog, work 5dc all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
• Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 12

Part 12 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3dc, ch2, 2dc) on rnd 3.

Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then work 1BPdc in each st and (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2dc, ch2, 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300dcs each side)

Rnd 2: Ch3, 1dc in each st around with  [2dc,ch2, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216dcs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304dcs each side)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts,  * ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1dc in the next st  [3dc,ch3, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828dcs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207dcs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of dc5tog) complete dc5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the dc5tog (picot made), ch3, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), dc5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, dc5tog, ch3, sl st to top of dc5tog, ch 5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning dc5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x dc5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x dc5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).

See chart above for reference

And that’s it! We are all finished! I’ve added a little bit more time to the schedule for you to finish, or catch up, before I do a round up of all your wonderful blankets on 4 June, so please keep sharing! Happy hooking until then!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Edited: Following some errors on the written rnds of Part 11 this pattern was amended on 18 May, sorry for any confusion caused.

Here we are! The penultimate part of our Filet Fantastic Crochet Along! I’ve released Part 11 a little bit earlier because this is the biggest section of the CAL so thought you might appreciate a bit of a head start. This week we set up the border by going all the way around all the parts we have made so far! 

Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 10’s, and some photos of other people who have just started the CAL and are catching up (amazing!), that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.

If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

❤️🧡💛 Purchase Yarn Kit from Black Sheep Wools 💚💙💜

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL eBooklet on Ravelry 💚💙💜

If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.

Filet Fantastic: Part 11 – Fancy Filet

335g / 871m or 7 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Colorado (Shade  941) or 4 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Dracten (1084).

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle

Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Part 11 – 165 x 165 cm (65 x 65 inches)

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
• Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 11

Part 11 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

• On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
• Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number

Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);

• Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout), then work, 1tr around the same post, 2tr around each remaining tr post of Part 10 (22sts), 1tr in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2tr around each post tr of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3tr in the last post, (256sts)
• Side 2: Ch2, 1tr in each st of side 10;  including the top of the tr of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
• Side 3: Repeat side 1
• Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.

(1024trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)

Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.

Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 7sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198trs + 32 xch2-sps per side)

Rnd 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ], repeat from [  thirty times, 1tr in the next 5sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts. ]]  Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.  (312trs, 124dcs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78trs, 31dcs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).

Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two tr’s of the first 6trs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.

If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.

Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206trs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts,  1tr in the last 9sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a    corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last  corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [  thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336trs, 128dcs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84trs, 32dcs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).

Rnd 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ]  repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 13sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ],  repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1tr in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [  thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]]  repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360trs, 132dcs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90trs, 33dcs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).  

Rnd 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [  thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 15sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last  corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first tr) 1tr in each st and ch-sp around; working (2tr, ch2,2tr) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184tr each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296trs each side).

Chart for section of Part 11 below * There are more repeats than shown

Please see important pattern note regarding the end stitch count.

Pattern in US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
• Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and  next dc into the dc.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 11

Part 11 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

• On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
• Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number

Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);

• Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout), then work, 1dc around the same post, 2dc around each remaining dc post of Part 10 (22sts), 1dc in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2dc around each post dc of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3dc in the last post, (256sts)
• Side 2: Ch2, 1dc in each st of side 10; including the top of the dc of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
• Side 3: Repeat side 1
• Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.

(1024dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)

Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.

Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 7sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198dcs + 32 xch2-sps per side)

Rnd 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ], repeat from [  thirty times, 1dc in the next 5sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts. ]]  Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.  (312dcs, 124scs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78dcs, 31scs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).

Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two dc’s of the first 6dcs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.

If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.

Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206dcs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts,  1dc in the last 9sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last  corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [  thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[  three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336dcs, 128scs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84dcs, 32scs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).

Rnd 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ]  repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 13sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ],  repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1dc in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [  thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]]  repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360dcs, 132scs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90dcs, 33scs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).  

Rnd 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [  thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 15sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a  corner, 1dc in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last  corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)

Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first dc) 1dc in each st and ch-sp around; working (2dc, ch2,2dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184dc each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296dcs each side + 4 x 2ch-sps).

See chart above for reference

And that’s it! The biggest part of the CAL is now finished, all we have left is the border just to finish it off, it really won’t be long now until your wonderful blanket is all put together!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Wow how fast does the CAL seem to be speeding along, we’re on Part 10 already which means in a couple more weeks you could potentially have a finished blanket!

Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 9’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!

If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

❤️🧡💛 Purchase Yarn Kit from Black Sheep Wools 💚💙💜

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL eBooklet on Ravelry 💚💙💜

If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.

Filet Fantastic: Part 10 – Bobble Grid

Yarn: 166g / 431.6m or 4 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Wheaton (Shade  958) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Hengelo (1084).

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle

Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Part 10 – 140 x 140 cm (55 x 55 inches)

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
• Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops

PATTERN – PART 10

You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;

To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9

We will be adding rows, working from the  bottom upwards,  where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 9 to add sts.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 8  until end, turn (257sts)

Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number

Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl,  1tr in the last st, turn

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [  twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl,  1tr in the last st, turn

Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.

Chart for section of Part 10 below * There are more repeats than shown

Please see important pattern note regarding the end stitch count.

Pattern in US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
• Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and  next dc into the dc.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops

PATTERN – PART 10

You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;

To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9

We will be adding rows, working from the  bottom upwards,  where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra dc’s on Part 9 to add sts.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are          important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 8  until end, turn (257sts)

Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number

Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl,  1dc in the last st, turn

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [  twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl,  1dc in the last st, turn

Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 11: Ch3, 1dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.

See chart above for reference

And that’s it! And that’s the end of our building blocks! We are now back to our square shape and in Part 11 (the biggest part of the CAL) we are going to be working our way around the whole blanket to join our sections together ready for the last part of the border.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Have you got that Friday feeling? It’s that time of the week where we look at a new CAL section, this time it’s Part 9 which means that there are only another 3 weeks until the end of our crochet-along!

I hope you are enjoying us crocheting along together, I have been just loving seeing how your unique and wonderful blankets have been developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 8’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!

If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

❤️🧡💛 Purchase Yarn Kit from Black Sheep Wools 💚💙💜

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL eBooklet on Ravelry 💚💙💜

If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.

Filet Fantastic: Part 9 – Bobble Flowers

Yarn: 130g / 338m or 3 balls of Scheepjes Riverwashed Tiber (Shade  958) or 130g / 338m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Brugge (1003).

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle

Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Part 9 – 140 x 115 cm (55 x 45 inches)

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
• Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops

PATTERN – PART 9

You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;

To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8

We will be adding rows, working from the  bottom upwards,  where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 6  until end, turn (213sts)

Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number

Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st,  (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st,  Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1tr in the last st, turn   

Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st,  Bl, [ Open Block, PS,  1tr in the next st,  Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS,  1tr in the next st,  Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn   

 
Row 7: Repeat row 5

 
Row 8: Repeat row 4

Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3

Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.

Chart for section of Part 9 below * There are more repeats than shown

Please see important pattern note regarding the end stitch count.

Pattern in US Terms:

BASIC FILET STITCHES

• Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
• Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
• Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
• Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and  next dc into the dc.

OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops

PATTERN – PART 9

You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;

To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8

We will be adding rows, working from the  bottom upwards,  where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.

Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 6  until end, turn (213sts)

Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number

Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st,  (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st,  Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1dc in the last st, turn   

Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st,  Bl, [ Open Block, PS,  1dc in the next st,  Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS,  1dc in the next st,  Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn   

 
Row 7: Repeat row 5

 
Row 8: Repeat row 4

Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3

Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.

See chart above for reference

And that’s it! Only three more sections to go until your wonderful blankets are complete, it’s all onwards and upwards now to that finishing point when you weave in that last yarn tail of your blanket!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.