If you’ve been following me for a while, then you’ll know that I have a bit of a thing about filet crochet – I just think it’s such a fun crochet technique, and it just so happens I’ve got a brand new filet crochet wrap design in the latest issue of Crochet Now magazine.
The Flora Filet wrap is a one ball shawl that creates a wearable bouquet! Worked in the filet crochet technique the wrap features create a large stylised flower pattern in a long light shawl that is easy to style.
With regards to filet crochet I love to try and think of designs that are perhaps a bit different from the idea that filet crochet is great for doily’s or mats with tiny thread and a tiny hook. For this latest wrap I wanted to go big and bold with a vibrant oversized flower motif – and I love how it turned out.
For this wrap I used a Scheepjes Whirl in Pink to Wink (Shade 552) with a 3.25mm (US D/3) hook. I used pretty much all of the 215g (1000m) of the yarn cake, which is a 4ply (Fingering / Sock Weight) yarn with a blend of 60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic, to make this lovely lightweight wrap.
It’s a perfect pattern to use with your favourite gradient yarn cake; for this version, though you could of course make it with any 4ply (or light DK / sport weight yarn).
The Flora Filet wrap would make a lovely addition to your spring / summer wardrobe to lift any outfit and make you the pick of the bunch!
If you are new to filet, you might find my post Top Tips for Filet Crochet useful to look at first, but this wrap has a lovely repetition of easy stitches that any level of crocheter could tackle.
This month’s 84 page issue of Crochet Now gives you plenty of tips, tricks, ideas and inspiration from loads of fab designers like Bella Coco Crochet, TOFT’s Kerry Lord, Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in A Nutshell Crochet, amongst others. This particular issue also comes with an exclusive Bright Spark 6mm Tunisian Crochet Hook and Tunisian Crochet – Step up your Skills A4 pattern book.
If you make up the Flora Filet Wrap I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I was delighted to be asked recently, by Simply Crochet magazine, if I wanted to talk about the very first piece of crochet that I’d ever done for their regular Hooky Treasures back page feature.
If you have Issue 112 and you turn to the back page you will see some photos of the first thing I crocheted, from start to finish, just over ten years ago!
I was extremely exciting to be asked to do this feature and it feels like quite an achievement as a designer (as I still suffer from imposter syndrome at times! 🙈) and although I’m usually more comfortable behind the camera than in front of it, I was happy to send in a photo on this occasion.
The Hooky Treasures page is where a designer talks about one of their favourite projects they’ve made and the story behind it. It has to be something very personal, like the first thing you made, or the thing that gave you confidence to be a designer, or just something made for a special person in your life.
I decided I had to choose the Filet Bunny Blanket I made when I was pregnant with my daughter, it is most definitely the thing that, if you’ll excuse the pun, got me hooked on crochet and which eventually lead to my designing crochet patterns of my own.
This project is quite precious to me, not only because I still remember how proud I was when I finally finished it, but because it wrapped up both of my daughters – and it’s still going strong to this day! Who knows; it may one day wrap up my grandchildren – what an amazing thought!
I also have many wonderful memories of working on this blanket with my mum’s help. What was particularly lovely was the magazine arrived on my doorstep on a day when she was visiting so I proudly got to show her the feature.
I’m not going to tell you what I said in the article, you might wish to read that yourself, but I thought you might enjoying seeing a few more photos of my first make.
I’d love to hear more about your first makes; do you still use or have your oldest crochet item? What was it and how old is it? Let me know in the comments below.
Issue 118 of Simply Crochet magazine is available to buy from your local supermarket or you can grab a digital or print subscription from buysubscriptions.com.
And if you are interested in making the filet bunny blanket yourself it’s still available as a free download from Yarnspirations.com here.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
A lightweight crochet market bag is a must to sling over your shoulders to take grocery shopping, or on a picnic trip, or to the beach – or anywhere you need! My new and free Freccia Filet Market Bag is just the ticket for carrying your oranges – or anything else that takes your fancy!
I think there’s an even bigger need for crochet bags these days as we all try to utilise eco-friendly reusable bags over plastic ones. It’s a great way to use your crochet skills to make something useful and practical – and reusable bags are also perfect summer projects when made in a lightweight yarn!
I’ve had in my mind a pattern for a market bag for ages, so when the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns asked me if I’d like to make a bag with some of their Anchor Freccia yarn I quickly said yes!
Freccia is a 3 ply high quality 100% Egyptian Giza cotton thread offering a delicate balance of softness, flexibility, body and brightness. It’s a versatile thread, available in 6 thread thicknesses, which I’ve used it before for a scarf (see FREE Freccia Flor Scarf here), and it comes in a wide range of different colours.
I used no. 6 thickness again this time, with a 2.5mm hook (US size C/2), and I chose to make my bag in a lovely rich royal purple (shade 00092). The whole bag, including the straps, used 4 x 50g (4 x 175m) balls in total to create a bag with a width of 38cm (14″) x length 40cm (15″) , bag handles 62cm (24″) in length.
Made with cotton yarn the Freccia Filet Market Bag is super robust and if it gets dirty, you can just throw it in the washing machine and hang it up to dry!
I wanted to create a bag that was strong and durable, but also that would be a bit pretty – that’s where the filet came in. To begin with I had in mind a larger filet design on the bag, but quickly realised that wasn’t going to be at all practical as things could potentially fall through the ‘holes’ so I decided the design would be served better by having a filet detail around the top.
The bag and the filet sections are worked in a unique way in rounds and in rows to minimise a visible seam at the end. Crocheting the bottom and the straps, with extra slip stitches, also makes the bag extra durable so they can hold then a lot of weight even with only using a lightweight cotton.
The Freccia Filet Market Bag is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
Crochet a single colour bags or in variegated yarn, or maybe in the rainbow colour palette, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. Great for anyone that wants a new reusable bag, or maybe someone who wants to try a bit of filet crochet (it’s a technique I don’t think I’m ever going to get sick of!).
Perfect for rolling up and popping in your handbag for when you need a bag, or pack it up and go!
If you hook up the Filet Market Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Wow! I can’t even say how it feels to be sharing with you the last part of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along today! Over the last 12 weeks – we have worked together to build some AMAZING blankets together, and I hope you have enjoyed the CAL as much as I enjoyed designing it for you. Below you will find the very last 4 rounds of our blanket *sniff sniff*.
As you maybe aware unfortunately there were a few errors discovered in Part 11 – these have been amended here on the blog and on Ravelry. In addition I’ve also added an extra chart as an example for the corner of Part 11 as somebody mentioned that would be useful.
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 11’s. Not as many to share yet this week as I know Part 11 was the biggest part of the whole CAL, and it might take some people a little bit longer to finish up their blankets. The photos below have been taken from Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 12 – The Border
335g / 871m or 4 balls of of Scheepjes River Washed Steenbras (Shade 942) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Meppel (1061).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Treble 5 together (tr5tog): The Treble Crochet 5 Together is a technique uses a series of trebles into one stitch to create a cluster. To tr5tog, work 5tr all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 12
Part 12 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3tr, ch2, 2tr) on rnd 3.
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then work 1BPtr in each st and (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2tr, ch2, 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300trs each side)
Rnd 2: Ch3, 1tr in each st around with [2tr,ch2, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216trs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304trs each side)
Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, * ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1tr in the next st [3tr,ch3, 2tr] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1tr in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828trs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207trs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)
Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of tr5tog) complete tr5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the tr5tog (picot made), ch3, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), tr5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, tr5tog, ch3, sl st to top of tr5tog, ch5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1dc in the top of the single tr of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1tr), sl st to the top of the beginning tr5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x tr5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x tr5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).
Chart for sections of Part 12 below *
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): The Double crochet 5 Together is a technique uses a series of double crochets into one stitch to create a cluster. To dc5tog, work 5dc all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop unworked on the hook each time. When you’ve got 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all six sts.
Picot Stitch: Picots are created by chaining the number of stitches called for in the pattern and then working a slip stitch in the indicated stitch or space. E.g. ch 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base st, yo, pull through all loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 12
Part 12 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
For the border pattern we will add 1 extra st to a corner so there will be (3dc, ch2, 2dc) on rnd 3.
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to any corner, Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then work 1BPdc in each st and (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp until you reach the corner with your starting ch3, (2dc, ch2, 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (1200dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 300dcs each side)
Rnd 2: Ch3, 1dc in each st around with [2dc,ch2, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (1216dcs + 4 x ch2-sps / 304dcs each side)
Rnd 3: Sl st to the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, * ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next 3sts * repeat from * to * around until the corner with 1dc in the next st [3dc,ch3, 2dc] in each corner ch2-sp, until last corner, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st,1dc in the next st, ch1, miss next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (828dcs + 408 x ch1-sps, 4 x ch3-sps / 207dcs each side, 102 x ch1-sps, 1 x ch3-sp per side)
Rnd 4: Sl st to the next st, ch2 (start of dc5tog) complete dc5tog in same st, * ch3, sl st to the top of the dc5tog (picot made), ch3, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), dc5tog in next st * repeat from * to * around with [ch5, dc5tog, ch3, sl st to top of dc5tog, ch 5] in each corner ch2-sp until last corner is completed, 1sc in the top of the single dc of rnd 3, ch3, miss (ch-sp and 1dc), sl st to the top of the beginning dc5tog to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (204 x dc5tog including corners, 400 x ch3-sps. 204 picots and 4 x ch5-sps / 51 x dc5tog, 100 x ch3-sps, 50 picots (not including the corners) and 1 x ch5-sps per side).
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! We are all finished! I’ve added a little bit more time to the schedule for you to finish, or catch up, before I do a round up of all your wonderful blankets on 4 June, so please keep sharing! Happy hooking until then!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
The June 2021 issue of I Like Crochet magazine is out now and it’s a lovely collection of patterns to help prepare you for (hopefully coming soon) sunnier weather!
I’ve got two patterns in this latest edition and I’m super excited to share with you the first one, a wrap type of shawl, called the Anchor Cove Shawl.
If I haven’t completely ‘filet crocheted’ you out then you might enjoy this design as it has a fun central motif of a filet anchor, flanked by wavy white and blue striped panels. The combination is a positively nautical design ready for walks on the beach or taking on the high seas.
I used two Scheepjes Whirlettes (40% Acrylic / 60% Cotton); [455 meters] / 100 grams) for this project; one in Bilberry (Shade 868) and one in Ice (Shade 860). Unlike the bigger sister Whirls, which you might be familiar with, Whirlettes are balls of solid colour, fabulous for mixing with a Whirl to extend a Whirl cake project or perfect for using on their own.
Just like a Whirl a Whirlette is 2ply (Fingering Weight) yarn composed of two strands of yarn twisted together. For this particular project I used a 3.25mm (US size E/4) hook to produce a lovely drape to the finished wrap.
I would suggest that the Anchor Cove is an intermediate pattern, designed for those who have mastered the basics of crochet and are looking for a new challenge. If you are new to filet crochet you might find my ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful where I’ve listed some specific tips on the technique.
As well as my scarf the June 2021 edition features loads of seasonal patterns and a range of interesting articles. If you SUBSCRIBEyou can get the magazine straight to your desktop or iPad as well as access to lots of other extra crochet bonus material.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Edited: Following some errors on the written rnds of Part 11 this pattern was amended on 18 May, sorry for any confusion caused.
Here we are! The penultimate part of our Filet Fantastic Crochet Along! I’ve released Part 11 a little bit earlier because this is the biggest section of the CAL so thought you might appreciate a bit of a head start. This week we set up the border by going all the way around all the parts we have made so far!
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 10’s, and some photos of other people who have just started the CAL and are catching up (amazing!), that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 11 – Fancy Filet
335g / 871m or 7 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Colorado (Shade 941) or 4 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Dracten (1084).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 11 – 165 x 165 cm (65 x 65 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 11
Part 11 is worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);
Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout), then work, 1tr around the same post, 2tr around each remaining tr post of Part 10 (22sts), 1tr in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2tr around each post tr of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3tr in the last post, (256sts)
Side 2: Ch2, 1tr in each st of side 10; including the top of the tr of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
Side 3: Repeat side 1
Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.
(1024trs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)
Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.
Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 7sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198trs + 32 xch2-sps per side)
Rnd 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ], repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the next 5sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 7sts. ]] Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (312trs, 124dcs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78trs, 31dcs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two tr’s of the first 6trs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.
If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824trs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206trs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 9sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336trs, 128dcs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84trs, 32dcs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, dc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1tr in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 13sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864trs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216trs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1tr in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 6sts ], repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1tr in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 11sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 11sts ]] repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1tr in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360trs, 132dcs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90trs, 33dcs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 15sts, (2tr,ch2, 2tr) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1tr in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1tr in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1dc, 1ch), 1tr in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904trs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226trs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first tr) 1tr in each st and ch-sp around; working (2tr, ch2,2tr) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184tr each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296trs each side).
Chart for section of Part 11 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 11
Part 11 in worked in the round onto the right side of the CAL;
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
On Rnd 1 we will be making sure that all the sides have the same number of stitches, to do this we will add 1 extra st at a relevant point;
Insert a marker every 25 or 50 stitches as you go along as this will make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the round to ensure you have the correct number
Rnd 1: Attach yarn with a sl st to the first st to the last row st post of Part 10 (top left hand corner);
Side 1: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout), then work, 1dc around the same post, 2dc around each remaining dc post of Part 10 (22sts), 1dc in each st of Part 9 (211sts) then work 2dc around each post dc of Part 10 until the last post (20sts), 3dc in the last post, (256sts)
Side 2: Ch2, 1dc in each st of side 10; including the top of the dc of the last post st of Part 10 (256sts)
Side 3: Repeat side 1
Side 4: Repeat side 2. Ch2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.
(1024dcs + 4 x 2ch-sps / 256sts per side)
Tip: Check that you have the correct stitch count for rnd 1 before continuing.
Rnd 2: Ch3, [ 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ch2, miss 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 7sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat, after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (792dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 198dcs + 32 xch2-sps per side)
Rnd 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next 4sts, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ], repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the next 5sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 7sts. ]] Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (312dcs, 124scs, 248 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 78dcs, 31scs, 62 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Note: On this rnd you will be counting your chains as a st, for example the last two dc’s of the first 6dcs of rnd 4 will be worked into the ch’s of the ch3-sp.
If you want to just work into the ch-sps rather than the chs that won’t cause an issue as long as you make sure you have the correct number of sts at the end.
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next 6sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (824dcs + 128 x ch2-sps / 206dcs + 32 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ] thirty times, ch2,miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 9sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 6 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (832dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 208dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 6: Ch3, [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 9sts. [[Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 8 sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (336dcs, 128scs, 256 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 84dcs, 32scs, 64 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next 2sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (ch1, sc, ch1) from previous rnd, 1dc in the next 6sts (including chs) ] repeat from [ thirty times, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 13sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 13sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 10sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (864dcs + 132 x ch2-sps / 216dcs + 33 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, ch3, 1dc in the next 5sts, [[ [ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 6sts ], repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch2, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (872dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 218dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 9: Sl st in the next 2sts, ch3, 1dc in the next st [[ [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 2sts ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 11sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 11sts ]] repeat from [[ three times until after the last ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 11 sts, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the ch2-sp, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (360dcs, 132scs, 264 x ch3-sps, 4 x ch2-sps / 90dcs, 33scs, 66 x ch3-sps, 1 x ch2-sp per side).
Rnd 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next 3sts, [[ [ ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the next 6sts (including ch) ] repeat from [ thirty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 15sts, (2dc,ch2, 2dc) in the ch2-sp for a corner, 1dc in the next 15sts, ]]. Repeat from [[ three times; on the third repeat continue after the last corner in the ch2 -sp is made, 1dc in the next 15sts, ch2, miss (1ch, 1sc, 1ch), 1dc in the last 2chs, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. (904dcs + 136 x ch2-sps / 226dcs + 34 x ch2-sps per side)
Rnd 11: Ch3 (counts as first dc) 1dc in each st and ch-sp around; working (2dc, ch2,2dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1184dc each side + 4 x 2ch-sps / 296dcs each side + 4 x 2ch-sps).
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! The biggest part of the CAL is now finished, all we have left is the border just to finish it off, it really won’t be long now until your wonderful blanket is all put together!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Wow how fast does the CAL seem to be speeding along, we’re on Part 10 already which means in a couple more weeks you could potentially have a finished blanket!
Thank you for everyone who has been sharing their photos, I love to see how your blankets are developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 9’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 10 – Bobble Grid
Yarn: 166g / 431.6m or 4 balls of Scheepjes River Washed Wheaton (Shade 958) or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Hengelo (1084).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 10 – 140 x 140 cm (55 x 55 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 10
You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 9 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 8 until end, turn (257sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [ twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1 tr in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1tr in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 10 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 10
You will build part 10 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 10 you will be working on Parts 8 and 9
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra dc’s on Part 9 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 9; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 8 until end, turn (257sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4, [(Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] repeat from [ twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, Open Block, (Bl) x 2, Open Block ] repeat from [ twenty three times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 4,[ (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 3 ] twenty two times, (Bl) x 2, (Open Block) x 4, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, PS, 1dc in the next st, [ (Open Block) x 4, PS, 1dc in the next st] repeat from [ twenty three times, (Open Block) x 2, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, (Open Block) x 125, Bl, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 11: Ch3, 1dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! And that’s the end of our building blocks! We are now back to our square shape and in Part 11 (the biggest part of the CAL) we are going to be working our way around the whole blanket to join our sections together ready for the last part of the border.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Have you got that Friday feeling? It’s that time of the week where we look at a new CAL section, this time it’s Part 9 which means that there are only another 3 weeks until the end of our crochet-along!
I hope you are enjoying us crocheting along together, I have been just loving seeing how your unique and wonderful blankets have been developing. Below you can see just a few of the finished part 8’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – I know some of you are still finishing off as it takes a little longer to get each section finished as we get bigger!
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 9 – Bobble Flowers
Yarn: 130g / 338m or 3 balls of Scheepjes Riverwashed Tiber (Shade 958) or 130g / 338m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Brugge (1003).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 9 – 140 x 115 cm (55 x 45 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 9
You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 6 until end, turn (213sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, Bl, [ Open Block, PS, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS, 1tr in the next st, Open Block, 1tr in the last st, turn
Row 7: Repeat row 5
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 9 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Puff Stitch (PS): Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up loop (5 times), yarn over and pull through 9 loops, yo, and pull through last 2 loops
PATTERN – PART 9
You will build part 9 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 9 you will be working on Parts 7 and 8
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 8 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 8; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 6 until end, turn (213sts)
Note: As your blanket get’s bigger you might find it helps to insert a stitch marker every 25 or 50 stitches on row 1 to make it easier to count the stitches at the end of the row to ensure you have the correct number
Rows 2 – 3: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 105, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, (Open Block) x 2, [ Bl, (Open Block) x 4 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Bl, (Open Block) x 2, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, Bl, Open Block, Bl, [ (Open Block) x 2, Bl, Open Block, Bl, ] repeat from [ nineteen times, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, Bl, [ Open Block, PS, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, (Bl) x 2 ] repeat from [ nineteen times, Open Block, PS, 1dc in the next st, Open Block, 1dc in the last st, turn
Row 7: Repeat row 5
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 2 and 3
Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! Only three more sections to go until your wonderful blankets are complete, it’s all onwards and upwards now to that finishing point when you weave in that last yarn tail of your blanket!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
It’s Friday, which means it’s CAL day, and I’m here with part 8 of the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along, I hope you are ready to get your hooks into this next section of our blanket which is growing ever bigger! This week we are going to be adding some nice, easy repetitive dashes to bring us back to a square shape.
But before we get to part 8 I’m going to share a few of the finished 7’s that have been shared on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram because I really like that part – it’s just such a lovely thing to have everyone crocheting along together and see each other’s progress isn’t it.
If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
If you are brand new to the CAL there’s is still plenty of time to join in with us. You can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are still available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog and also via Ravelry updates in the form of a printer friendly PDF ebooklet that is available for purchase. Please note you will only have to purchase the pattern once, updates will be automatically added so your pattern is updated each week and at the end of the 12 weeks you will have the full pattern to keep. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
If you are new to filet crochet you might find my blog post about ‘Top Tips for Filet Crochet’ useful on how to read filet crochet charts with some specific tips on the technique.
Filet Fantastic: Part 8 – Dashes
Yarn: 140g / 364m or 3 balls of of Scheepjes Riverwashed Amazon (Shade 951) or 140g / 420m or 2 balls of Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Middlesburg (1003).
Gauge: 5tr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size: Part 8 – 115 x 115 cm (45 x 45 inches)
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first tr + ch-1), miss next st or ch, tr in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1tr in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in the next 2sts.
Block (Bl): 1tr in the next 2sts.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 8
You will build part 8 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 8 you will be working on Parts 6 and 7.
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra tr’s on Part 7 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra tr on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 7; Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1tr. Continue to work tr’s along the row working 1tr in each st and 2tr around each post tr of Part 7 until end, turn (215sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first tr here and throughout), Bl, [ (Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 3 ], Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 3: Ch3, Bl, [(Bl) x 3, (Open Block) x 3] Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Bl) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: Ch3, 1 tr in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
Chart for section of Part 8 below * There are more repeats than shown
Please see important pattern noteregarding the end stitch count.
Pattern in US Terms:
BASIC FILET STITCHES
Beginning open block (beg open block): Ch4 (counts as first dc + ch-1), miss next st or ch, dc in the next st.
Open block: Ch1, miss next st, 1dc in the next st.
Beginning solid block (beg solid block): Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 2 sts.
Block (Bl): 1dc in the next 2 sts. Where base sts are dc, work 1dc in each st; where base sts are ch1 and dc, work your dc over the ch1 (into the space) and next dc into the dc.
OTHER STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN – PART 8
You will build part 8 onto the right side of the CAL;
To set up making Part 8 you will be working on Parts 6 and 7
We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of the extra dc’s on Part 7 to add sts.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:
You will have an extra dc on the end of each row that is not shown on the chart. These stitches are important as they will help link future sections of the CAL.
Row 1: Attach yarn with a sl st around the post of the last row of Part 7; Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout, then working on the same post, 1dc. Continue to work dc’s along the row working 1dc in each st and 2dc around each post dc of Part 7 until end, turn (215sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (Counts as first dc here and throughout), Bl, [ (Open Block) x 3, (Bl) x 3 ], Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Open Block) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 3: Ch3, Bl, [(Bl) x 3, (Open Block) x 3] Repeat from [ sixteen times, (Bl) x 3, Bl, turn
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each st and sp along until end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 12 – 22: Reattach yarn on the opposite side and repeat rows 1—11 of the pattern.
See chart above for reference
And that’s it! We are slowly getting bigger (and have to have more creative when photographing our piece – I think I was standing on a chair at this point!). Only five more sections after this to go until you have your own special and unique blanket to snuggle under.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
Thank you for crocheting along with me, it’s such a special thing to be crocheting along a pattern together.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Ready, Steady, Autumn! Are you ready for the changing of the seasons? Autumn in the Northern Hemisphere is supposed to begin on 22 September and weirdly, here we are a couple of days later and, I swear it’s got colder and darker in the evenings already!
So to cheer us up, with the imminent onset of cooler weather, I’ve got a lovely new pattern for you. Designed to give you some instant colour gratification (if you want to go there), and nice and quick to work up to ward off the first seasonal chills, allow me to introduce the Flourite Filet Cowl.
If you aren’t familiar with filet crochet this would be a great starting project. Filet crochet is an easy technique that can make some wonderful patterns using simple stitches (chains and US double / UK treble crochet).
Inspired by Flourite quartz crystals, which are beautiful colourful minerals that crystalise in cubic form, I’ve put together a cowl which features a repeating filet ‘cube’ or diamond shape.
Worked in the round and in three colours, to represent the ombre effect of the crystals, this is a quick and easy project to work up. I wanted a smallish cowl but you could make it taller by increasing the rows, or wider, as I’ve also included in the pattern how you would adjust the starting stitches to make it bigger.
I used Scheepjes River Washed yarn, which is 4ply ,78% Cotton / 22% Acrylic and comes in 50g balls. I made mine in Danube (948), Yarra (949) and Steenbras (942) to match the colours I picked up from the crystals, but I think the cowl would look equally pretty worked in a solid colour or even in a skein of hand dyed yarn.
Rainbow flourite crystals, in spiritual healing, are supposed to promote creative thinking, mental clarity and focus and most of all help clear the mind from negative energies – all things a crocheter can enjoy whilst working up this cowl.
In fact I enjoyed making this cowl so much that I made a second one. I still using Scheepjes River Washed yarn but I wanted to see what it would look like using different colours so I used a variety of pinks, in this case I used Mekong (943), Eisack (957) and Steenbras (942).
This pattern is perfect for advanced beginners as it only uses easy stitches, or as a versatile update to an accessory collection for an intermediate crocheter! It’s also perfect for any last minute gifts you need to make! The pattern is now available for purchase from my Ravelry, LoveCrafts or Etsy stores but hang on a moment…
This pattern is also being featured as part of the E’Claire Makery Fall Fashion Blog Hopon Friday 25th September 2020.Find out how to grab a FREE printable PDF copy of the cowl below.
From September 1 to September 30 a new crochet designer will be featured each day on , and they will share a crochet pattern available as a free pdf download. The PDF will be available as a FREE PDF download on Ravelry for 24 hours.
Blog Hop Instructions:
1: Click on the button below to go to the Flourite Filet Cowl on Ravelry.
2: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the bag from either my Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts store – but there is also ANOTHER way to get this pattern – and more patterns besides!
I’ve enjoyed taking part in Claire’s blog hops before but for the Fall Fashion blog hop she’s offering something new. All the designers involved are offering a crochet bundle! This bundle includes all 32 of the crochet patterns that will be released for this event. The bundle includes all of the patterns in one place, with a table of contents to easily take you to each pattern. Plus, you won’t have to worry if this is the first you are hearing about the blog hop and you’ve missed the other days to download the patterns. You’ll already have all of them!
Just take a look at some of the gorgeous designs that are included below:
One of the best parts of the crochet pattern bundle is that it’s over 90% off of the usual price of all of these patterns separately! For just £11.45 ($15), you can get all of them! And there’s actually two patterns from me included; the Fluorite Filet Cowl and another cowl pattern exclusive to Dear Ewe coming soon!
If you want to make sure you get notifications about special events like this blog hop or tutorials, news and pattern releases then please sign up for my newsletter below.
I can’t wait to see your versions of the Flourite Filet Cowl and what colours you will chose to make it in! I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.
