The Enchanted Wood: Part 3 – Ferns

Welcome to part 3 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Collage of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL made by others

So are you are ready to get started on Part 3! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be creating some ferns at the top and the bottom of our beginning tree and buds motif.

With their interesting foliage and textures ferns are a big feature of the woods near us. They get so big in summer that the block off some of the pathways and I love that they curl up as a means of self-protection from the cold (I do the same).

Inspirational photo of ferns in a wood for Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Image of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL; textured crocheted panel on display in front of lots of ferns

The Enchanted Wood: Part 3 – Ferns

Yarn: 65g / 162m / 178yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Bluestone (4764) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Mocha (1064) – YARN C

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 3 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 36cm (14”) wide x 72cm (28”) long
  • In Special DK: 30.5cm (15”) wide x 75.5cm (29.5”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 3

Schematic of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

PATTERN – PART 3

  • Part 2 ended with; 69sts on each short side / 77 sts on each long side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total
  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN C in the top corner of a short side (at the top of the tree). Ch3 (counts as first tr here and throughout), 1BPtr around the next st and in each st across until the next ch3-sp, 1tr in this sp, turn. 2 tr / 69 BPtr / 71 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in 8sts, ch1, miss the next st, [1dc in the next 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1dc in 8sts, turn. 61dc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in 7sts, ch1, miss the next st [ 1tr in 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1tr in 8sts, turn. 61tr + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Apart from the start and finish of the row the ferns are worked over 5sts;

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, [ miss the next st two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPtr around the post of the next st (the dc of the row below), then working backwards, FPdtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, then working on the current row, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss the next st, 1tr in the next st ] repeat ten times, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn. 22 FPdtr / 11 FPtr / 28 tr / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Charts of rows 1-5 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in 2sts, miss the next st two rows below, [ FPdtr around the next FPdtr two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPtr in the next st on the current row, FPdtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, FPdtr around the FPdtr two rows below, ch1 ] repeat ten times, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 44 FPdtr / 7 tr / 10 FPtr /10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 7:                

Charts of rows 1-7 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 9:            

Charts of rows 1-9 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 11: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 12: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 13: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 14: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 15: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 16: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 17: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 19: Ch3, 1tr in the next 4sts, 1FPdtr around the next st two rows below, 1tr in the next 2sts, {ch1, miss the next st, 1tr in the next 2sts, 1FPdtr in the next st two rows below, 1tr in the next 2sts] repeat 9 times, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn  11 FPdtr / 50 tr / 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 20: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 21: Ch3, 1tr in each st and ch-sp across.. Fasten off and weave in ends. 71 sts

With YARN C repeat rows 1 – 21 on the opposite short side of your work (at the bottom of the tree). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial Chart of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Pattern in US Terms:

Image of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL; textured crocheted panel on display on top of a cut tree stump

Stitch Guidance:

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 3

Schematic of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

PATTERN – PART 3

Part 2 ended with; 69sts on each short side / 77 sts on each long side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPtr it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN C in the top corner of a short side (at the top of the tree). Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 1BPdc around the next st and in each st across until the next ch3-sp, 1dc in this sp, turn. 2 dc / 69 BPdc / 71 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in 8sts, ch1, miss the next st, [1sc in the next 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1sc in 8sts, turn. 61sc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in 7sts, ch1, miss the next st [ 1dc in 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1tr in 8sts, turn. 61dc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Apart from the start and finish of the row the ferns are worked over 5sts;

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, [ miss the next st two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPdc around the post of the next st (the sc of the row below), then working backwards, FPtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, then working on the current row, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss the next st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn. 22 FPtr / 11 FPdc / 28 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 5: 

Charts of rows 1-5 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in 2sts, miss the next st two rows below, [ FPtr around the next FPtr two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPdc in the next st on the current row, FPtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, FPtr around the FPtr two rows below, ch1 ] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 44 FPtr /11 FPdc/  6 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 7: 

Charts of rows 1-7 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 9:      

Charts of rows 1-9 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 11: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 12: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 13: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 14: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 15: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 16: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 17: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 19: Ch3, 1dc in the next 4sts, 1FPtr around the next st two rows below, 1dc in the next 2sts, {ch1, miss the next st, 1dc in the next 2sts, 1FPtr in the next st two rows below, 1dc in the next 2sts] repeat 9 times, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn  11 FPtr / 50 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 20: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 21: Ch3, 1dc in each st and ch-sp across.. Fasten off and weave in ends. 71 sts

With YARN C repeat rows 1 – 21 on the opposite short side of your work (at the bottom of the tree). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial Chart of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your stars begin to emerge!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Peppermint Pageant MAL | The Reveal & Pattern Release

Howdy, how are you all today? I’m just popping on today to tell you of my first pattern release of 2023!

The 26th of January was the last ‘official’ day of the latest make along that has been hosted by The Yarn Whisperer and myself. From the 26 December 2022 until now, over a month later, we have enjoyed our winter make along project with a bunch of lovely mal’ers. And now I get the opportunity to share my finished Peppermint Pageant Stocking, and it’s pattern, with you!

Image of a green, white and red Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stocking

Inspired by Christmas colours of red, white and green and by hand made Scandinavian fairisle type patterns I really enjoyed coming up with my own tapestry crochet version of a tradition stocking.

As always it’s been an absolute delight to work with Kitey and his gorgeously coloured yarn, I love these collabs we do – it always provides me with an opportunity to work with gorgeous yarn which in turn makes the design process super enjoyable.

The Aran yarn in this case was such a beautiful yarn to crochet with and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the slight variations of the semi solid colours come through as I worked each stitch.

Image of a work in progress Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stocking

If this is the first you’ve heard about the The Peppermint Pageant MAL you can read more about it here but in a nutshell it’s the result of a wonderful collaboration between myself and Kitey, aka The Yarn Whisperer, of a unique crocheted stocking designed with a special hand dyed yarn in mind.

It’s made us both incredibly happy to see the photos of folks sharing their progress with us on social media and I hope you will continue to do so as you finish your stockings if you haven’t had chance to make it yet.

Images of various works in progress and finished Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stockings

Although the official end date of the MAL has come to an end DO NOT feel any panic or worry that you didn’t keep up or haven’t even started yet. The deadline was there just for those people that like a deadline, for everyone else, enjoy it when you have the time to use the yarn and / or make the stocking – there is no rush to this crochet makealong! And sometime in the future you will have a beautiful finished object that you can gift for someone special or to enjoy yourself.

Image of the crocheted Peppermint Pageant stocking hanging up on a fireplace.

Now that the MAL is over, I have listed the pattern in my usual pattern stores for you to make your own version of the The Peppermint Pageant Stocking.

I would suggest three different colours work best, I used 100g / 166m of a main colour (e.g. White) and 50g / 83m in contract colours (e.g. Green and Red) and a 5mm (US size H/8) hook.

If you’d like to pick up this specific kit colourway then you can pick it up from Kitey and EXCITEDLY the Peppermint Pageant kits are getting an upgrade for 2023. This design and yarn combo are going to be the first make-along kit that will keep going this year. Kitey is coming up with some exciting new colourways as we speak that I can’t wait to see come together (I’m looking at you teal and silver – oooo!)

The pattern has a written version, a chart and comes with a bonus pattern to make your own mini hanging stocking decorations – Kitey and I always like to add a little extra something for those scraps of leftover yarn! The pattern comes with all explanation of stitches used and is available in either UK or US terminology.

We do hope that you’ve enjoyed this fun make-along, I know Kitey and I have thoroughly enjoyed it – in fact we’ve already got our plans in the works for our annual summer make-along! I’m already excited about it – we will be looking to release, as before, in July but details will be sent out before that to give folks plenty of time to sign up if they want to.

Make sure you are signed up to the blog (or my newsletter) and The Yarn Whisperer newsletter to make sure you are the first to know when the new collaboration project is revealed!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Welcome to part 2 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Selection of photos, made by the crochet community, of Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23

So are you are ready to crack on with part 2! For the second part of the CAL we are going to be working little buds around our tree using a special stitch to create some fabulous texture.

A bud is a small pointed lump that appears on a tree or plant and develops into a leaf or flower – that’s why I’ve chosen it for the next part of our crochet-along, the wood is growing around our tree!

Inspirational photo for KCACOUKCAL23 - Little Buds

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 pinned onto a tree trunk

The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Yarn: 80g / 200m / 219yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Seafoam (7143) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Parchment (1218) – YARN B

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 2 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 37cm (14.5”) wide x 40cm (15.7”) long
  • In Special DK: 30.5cm (15”) wide x 43.5cm (17”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • [[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.  

PATTERN – PART 2

  • Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first tr + ch-3 here and throughout), 1tr in same corner sp, then work 1BPtr around the next st and in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work dc in the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning dc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in. 59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, {[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 4sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1dc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the next st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1tr in the last st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the  LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1dc in the last 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr in same corner sp), then work 1tr in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPtr when it should have been BPtr, written instructions were correct.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Back Post double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work

Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work

[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified

[[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified

( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a                     

stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 2

Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first dc + ch-3 here and throughout), 1dc in same corner sp, then work 1BPdc around the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work sc in the next st and in each st around working (1sc, ch3, 1sc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning sc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in.

59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, {[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1sc in the last 4sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1sc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the next st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1dc in the last st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below,

[1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1sc in the last 2sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1sc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc in same corner sp), then work 1dc in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPdc when it should have been BPdc, written instructions were correct.

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 held up in front of a woodland scene

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! I look forward to seeing your progress later this week.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Giveaway | Win tickets for The Stitch Festival

EDITED: Giveaway now closed, congratulations to; Ann C, Tracey L, Charlie P, @Catherinecrochets and @shearsfiona

How would you like to win some FREE tickets to The Stitch Festival which returns to the Business Design Centre, Islington, London from 23-26 March 2023?

The Stitch Festival Logo - Business Design Centre, Islington, London from 23-26 March 2023

London’s hottest event for contemporary stitchers is back! The annual four-day creative extravaganza is a ‘must go’ for craft fans, with more than 230 hands-on workshops hosted by top tutors, designers and makers. 

Dressmaking, upcycling and slow fashion are a major focus for The Stitch Festival, with a dedicated Dressmaking Studio (sponsored by Brother), an overlocker workshop programme, and a Dressmaking Competition that shines a spotlight on the skills and talents of home dressmakers. Open to sewists of all levels, there are categories for Eveningwear, Loungewear, Childrenswear, Knitwear and Crochetwear, Upcycled or Repurposed garments, and new for 2023, Menswear. 

Two ladies looking at different fabrics at The Stitch Festival
© The Stitch Festival 2023

Eagle-eyed judges from the worlds of fashion and textiles (past judges have included Esme Young, Lisa Comfort and Nerrisa Pratt) will be looking for excellence in technical skills, stitching and creative flair. With prizes for category winners, a Janome Sewing Machine worth £650 for ‘Best in Competition’, and a Finalists’ Fashion Show on Sunday 26 March, Stitch Festival visitors can expect some exciting highlights. Competition entry submissions must be made by Friday 24 February 2023. For full entry information, visit www.thestitchfestival.co.uk/dressmaking-competition/  

Portrait of Katie Jones, Crochet Designer surrounded by colourful crochet samples and yarn
© The Stitch Festival 2023 – Katie Jones (Photo by Rachel Manns)

There are yarny things to look forward to too at the Festival. This year crochet designer Katie Jones has designed The Stitch Festival’s Crochet Lounge where she will be hosting crochet lessons and book signings. There are also so many workshops, just search ‘Crochet’ for a list of all the hooky ones – or try your hand at a new craft. In terms of crochet they include sessions on Mosaic crochet, Tunisian Crochet, Broomstick crochet lace and Freeform crochet to name a few.

Textile artist Jen Cable’s project, Knitted Lives, will be a celebration of contemporary knitting, exploring the lives and stories of everyday knitters, while best-selling author and craft entrepreneur, Isabella Strambio, will be inviting Festival goers to awaken their creativity as she shares her passion for macrame.   

Image of Knitted Jen Cable by Sophie Hoare
© The Stitch Festival 2023

Looking for inspiration for new projects? The Festival’s Stitch Stage features free demonstrations, presentations and Q&As with some favourite faces from the knit and stitch world. On Saturday 25 March, the Instagram Makers’ Catwalk features garments made and modelled by talented Insta makers, supported by independent pattern makers and fabric companies. 

Last but not least, there’s shopping, with more than 150 specialist retailers under one roof and special Stitch Festival deals to be had, plus all that vibrant Islington has to offer with its stores, restaurants, bars and cafes.  Hot and cold refreshments are available throughout the venue, with seating areas for picnics.

Although I can’t make it to this particular show, I’ve enjoyed the visits to these Stitching Shows in the past. If you fancy a read about those experiences you can read about them here and here.  

Stitch20

So on with the bit you’ve been waiting for! The giveaway details! I’ve got FIVE pairs of tickets to giveaway hurray!!! I’m giving away THREE pairs away here on the blog and TWO pairs away on Instagram.

GIVEAWAY

All you need to do to enter the giveaway is either leave a comment on the bottom of this blog post about why you’d like to go to the show or do the same over on my Instagram post.

The competition closes on Wednesday 1st February at 7pm (GMT). Winners will be contacted via the email supplied from their comment or by DM on social media.

Tickets are valid after 10am on Thursday 23rd, Friday 24th, Saturday 25th or Sunday 26th March. The organisers will not issue paper tickets. Winners will be emailed a link to register online with a unique code per pair of tickets and will receive e-tickets by email. When entering this competition you must be therefore happy to provide me with a your email address for this purpose, your email address will not be used in any other way.

However if you want some tickets now scroll down for an exclusive special offer!

Giveaway image to win tickets for the Stitch Festival 2023
© The Stitch Festival 2023

SPECIAL DISCOUNT

Advance adult tickets for The Stitch Festival are £16.50 from Thursday to Saturday (concessions £15, children aged 5-18 years £7.50) – transaction fees apply. Full ticket information is available at The Stitch Festival website www.thestitchfestival.co.uk. Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment. Opening hours are 10am-5.30pm on Thursday-Saturday and 10am-3pm on Sunday.  Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment. 

But if you want your ticket RIGHT NOW I’ve also got a special discount for you! Just quote: CROCHETON23 to get £2 off advance adult tickets /and concessions.

Please note that the discount ends at 23.59pm on Wednesday 22 March 2023.

I’d like to say a big thank you again to the shows organisers for offering this special deal to my lovely KCACO.UK readers! 

Good Luck everyone!

Stay connected

I’d love to stay connected with you so please do sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, giveaways, special offers or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!

Inspirational shot of a large tree in the middle of a woodland

This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.

As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree. The central motif is shown pinned to a tree trunk in a wood.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 1 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
  • In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Row 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 7 of the KCACOUKCAL23 Chart

Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 9 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn


Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 11 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 13 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 15 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 17 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.      

Rows 18-23 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

Row 25 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

Full crochet chart for 'The Tree' part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts  (1htr, ch3, 1htr)  in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts,  (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts,  (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23; the central crochet motif of a tree is pictured lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,

· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows    below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 5:            

Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows             below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.         

Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.

Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc)  in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tutorial | How to Read a Crochet Chart

With the Enchanted Wood Crochet Along starting later today (yippee!) I thought I’d just take a moment to talk a little bit about reading crochet charts for anyone that might not be so familiar with the technique.

Crochet charts shouldn’t be seen as scary! It’s a skill that is easy to learn once you’ve got the starting know-how and get a bit of practice. Being able to read a crochet chart (or diagram) can really expand your options for working with different types of crochet patterns – it can also be a helpful visual tool for using along side a written pattern.

Reading Crochet Charts Tips and Tricks Blog Post Banner Image

With my more recent patterns, where relevant, I try to add a chart as extra information – this is definitely the case with the Enchanted Wood blanket. So I thought a blog post before we start could prove useful.

What is a crochet chart?

A crochet chart is usually a visual representation of a crochet pattern using crochet symbols. I’m going to specifically be talking about crochet symbol charts in this post. These are a little different from filet, C2C or tapestry charts which might be shown in as blocks to show colour or groups of the same stitch (I have done posts about reading tapestry charts and reading filet charts if you want to check those out).

Crochet charts can be provided for projects in rows or in rounds (for things like motifs – think granny squares), it’s unusual to see charts for things like amigurumi (though it is more common in Japanese crochet).

Crochet Symbols

For pretty much every crochet stitch that exists there is a matching crochet symbol. Each crochet stitch has a standard symbol that most people use (making charts a great way to work a pattern that’s written in a different language). You will find that many people use the US Craft Yarn Council’s chart symbols, but there should always be a pattern key for symbols accompanying a chart that you can refer to.

Crochet Chart Symbols with symbols and terminology of 6 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Many times the crochet symbol will look like the stitch you are going to create; the chain stitch, for example, is depicted as an oval that is basically the line representation of what a chain stitch looks like when worked in yarn.

Post stitches have a “hook” at the bottom representing that you hook it over the post and they will point in the direction that you would work that stitch.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 5 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Lines in the middle of a stitch symbol represent the yarn overs, so for a treble crochet (US double crochet) looks like a T with a single line across the bar – so there is one ‘yarn over’, a double treble (US treble) looks like a T with two lines across the bar – for two ‘yarn overs’.

Shell stitches or textured bobble, puff and popcorn stitches will be shown as being worked in one stitch by a complete symbol. Sometimes how symbols for stitches like bobbles, puffs and popcorns may look a little different so it’s always important to refer to the chart key to be sure.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 4 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Once you get familiar with the symbols that represent each stitch, it’s fairly easy to read crochet symbols and the subsequent charts. They are designed to read exactly like they look!

Reading a Chart

You will find, when it comes to reading charts, that most are written for right handed crocheters (unless specifically specified), basically that means that the chart should be reversed if you are left-handed. This can be done mentally or through a physical reproduction – try doing a reverse image on your computer with photo editing tools.

To work from a crochet chart in rows, start from the bottom left and work the foundation chain from left to right (if you’re right-handed). Then work Row 1, starting at the bottom right of the diagram and working each stitch towards the left. Then work Row 2 from the left side towards the right, and so on. The row numbers are usually placed at the start of each row, though rows can be depicted by dots or nothing at all if it’s clear where a row starts and ends – my top tip is to look for the starting chains.

The image below shows a section of my Shining Light wedding wrap (free pattern here on the blog):

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart with rows

Round-based symbol charts are worked from the inside out, starting in the centre and working counter clockwise (for right-handed crocheters). It’s a little harder to fit row numbers on patterns worked in the round so it can be useful to look for starting chains or slip stitches to give you a clue as you know from experience with crochet that that is where you will begin.

The image below shows a classic granny square pattern which is worked in the round:

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart in the round

Typically stitches are worked through both loops. However, there are exceptions where stitches are worked in the front or back loop only. Again there will be a symbol to represent this change in how you do the stitch.

If a chart is large, that would take up a lot of space in a pattern, then you might find information presented as a partial chart. It should still contain all the information you need, it’s most likely that the stitches are repeated which means it’s been able to be condensed.

Keeping Track

It can be helpful, as you work with charts, to mark of the rows as you go so you don’t lose track of where you are. This can be done with marks on the diagram, using a ruler, or by using a row counter. You also might find it useful to use stitch markers to track your rows and stitches.

And if you get lost in a crochet pattern that has a chart then looking at a diagram can help! Your crochet piece should be the same as the diagram so using a chart can be a great visible way to help you find your place quickly.

I hope you find that helpful before we begin our Enchanted Wood CAL journey where you will get plenty of opportunity to hone your new chart reading skills!

Good luck with your chart reading, feel free to drop any comments or any other helpful tips you’ve found with crochet charts below.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Crochet Now Magazine | Lola the Ladybird

Send a little love to that special someone in your life with Lola the Lovebug. Packed full of love from antennae to the tips of her toes she will be sure to be loved by everyone!

Crocheted ladybird in a garden holding a heart, there is ivy in the background and securers in the foreground.
© Practical Publishing 2023 (Crochet Now Issue 90)

The pattern for Lola, along with her little heart, is available in issue 90 of Crochet Now magazine. Lola comes equipped with delicate hearts on top of her antennae making her a true love bug! She was a really fun project to work on, and you could make her holding the heart, or leave it separate, or why not even embroider the initials of someone special onto the front.

I created my lovebug with a 3mm hook out of some James C. Brett It’s 100% Pure Cotton which is 100% cotton that comes in 100g [215 meters / 235yds] balls and, for a cotton, is lovely and soft.

Close up of a crocheted ladybird in a garden holding a heart

The only other things you need to make the Lola is some black embroidery thread, stitch markers, a tapestry needle and some toy stuffing.

❤️ SAVE LOLA THE LOVE BUG ON RAVELRY ❤️

Nothing says I love you as much as something handmade I think. She would make the perfect pick-me-up gift for someone special this Valentine’s Day or any other day.

Image from Crochet Now 90 of Lola the crocheted Lovebug.
© Practical Publishing 2023 (Crochet Now Issue 90)

Issue 90 is full of lovely seasonal patterns and is available to buy from most supermarkets. Or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines

Front cover of CN90 magazine

If you make up Lola the Lovebug I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Looking back at 2022 | And coming up…

Welcome to the first KCACO.UK blog post for 2023! I’d like to wishing you all a very Happy New Year! I hope you had a restful and woolly festive break.

I umm’d and ahh’d about doing an end of year review but I decided that I actually forget so much that I’ve done that it can be rather nice to take a bit of time to look back at the year in this way.

Apparently I released 49 patterns in 2022; which seems a little bonkers when it’s added up like that. I’m so often going straight to the next project, after finishing the last, so I don’t realise just how much crochet I’ve managed to squeeze in! 49 patterns seemed a bit excessive to recap though so I thought I’d just share some of my personal highlights or favourites projects of the year!

January / February 2022

At the start of the year I was delighted to share some designs in Happily Hooked Magazine, I Like Crochet Magazine and Crochet Now. There was a moose, a hat, scarf, purse and three wraps in amongst the designs, but I have to say that one of my favourites was the Chevron Spectrum Wrap from Happily Hooked Issue 94 – and I’ve had such positive feedback about it that it seemed to be a favourite with you too.

Now that the pattern rights have come back to me for this one it’s definitely on the list as an early release for 2023 (so watch this space!)

March / April 2022

In March / April I re-released some patterns including two bunnies and a dragon, and I worked with Crochet Now Magazine again with the Flora Filet wrap design, and a bit of a highlight, an Official Clangers pattern for a baby mobile for Issue 79. There were also the three free patterns working in collaboration with Anchor Yarns to create some jewellery designs – they were fun. I also released my first mini crochet kit, for a hanging heart ornament, which I thoroughly enjoyed creating.

But I have to say that one of my favourite designs was another rainbow inspired design (because I do so love a rainbow!) again for Happily Hooked Magazine (Issue 96) and that was the Colour Wheel Cowl.

I actually really want to recreate this design in some hand-dyed mini’s that I’ve got – don’t you think that could be an great project?

May / June 2022

In May and June I had the pleasure of working with Happily Hooked Magazine on a wrap and a doll, Crochet Now Magazine on a wrap, a shawl and an amigurumi, Simply Crochet magazine on a cassette purse and Lets Get Crafting on a squirrel and mobile.

I was also delighted to be one of the guest designers for The Crochet Society subscription box 35. The Argon Triangular Scarf actually was my favourite makes of the year, I loved how it turned out – that texture still really makes me smile!

© Practical Publishing 2022

And I’m going to sneak in a couple of additional favourite designs, because the lovely Kitey (aka The Yarn Whisperer) and I collaborated on our summer make-along at this time too. The Dragonfly River Cowl is a pattern I LOVED designing – it’s always a delight to create something with beautiful yarn and accessories!

We already have some ideas lined up for summer (and winter) which are some of the things I’m looking forward to in 2023.

May was also the month that I released Flynn the Fox with Dear Ewe which launched when I exhibited at Wool@Jct13 Yarn Show. I love how sweet this little amigurumi fox turned out, he’s definitely on my list of favourite makes for the year.

I’m going to be back exhibiting with Wool@Jct13 again in May 2023 (it’s in Staffordshire if fancy coming along), with (fingers crossed) a brand new amigurumi kit design – something else I’m looking forward too.

July / August 2022

In July and August there were some more amigurumi’s with Crochet Now Magazine, including one of my favourite collections, for some official Care Bear Patterns (in Issue 84). As a child of the 80’s it was rather special to have the opportunity to work on those simply because they were CARE BEARS!

I was delighted to also be included in the Simply Crochet magazine Granny Square day festivities with two new granny square designs, I re-released a puppy for charity, and released a free bee keyring. I also created a blanket and a wrap for I Like Crochet Magazine, the latter of which, The Sandstone Shawl, was another of my favourite designs of the year.

© I Like Crochet – August 2022

I love, love, LOVE how it turned out and I’m still in love with all slubby textured yarns as a consequence I think! Maybe more of that sort of yarn this year.

September / October 2022

There were ponies and re-released life-sized pumpkins. and bird baubles, monsters, and free blocks like the Isaz Afghan Block I think I had a couple of favourites again during this period. I released another mini crochet kit, The Teeny Tiny Pumpkins, which I thoroughly enjoyed – there’s just something so satisfactory about making a load of pumpkins!

I really do enjoy creating these tiny crochet kits, so I’m certain they’ll be some more of these on the cards for 2023.

I also really loved making The Acorn Gnomes for Crochet Now magazine (Issue 86), these little characters really just came alive when I made them, I love walks in the woods, and loved imagining these little guys into being!

November / December 2022

The end of the year saw Pickles the Puppy for Crochet Now and The Winter Rambles scarf for  Inside Crochet (issue 152) and two new mini crochet kits, the Vintage Snowman and the Reindeer Tree Ornament, the latter of which sold out! I’ll be restocking that one soon now that I’ve re-opened the shops after Christmas this week.

And of course I can’t forget the winter make along for The Peppermint Pageant MAL with Kitey – but as that’s still on going (until 26 January) I won’t share all the details on that just yet. But needless to say the yarn was a delight to work with and the accessories by Mrs G Makes were perfection as always.

As well as that lot I also managed to some how squeeze in hooking up some patterns by some other designers including The Juniper Cowl by TL Yarn Crafts, The Samhain Beanie and the Tree Skirt by The Crochet Sanctuary ladies, a Wednesday doll by Nivia Souza for my niece (which she loved), some crocheted vegetables (Carrot and Artichoke), The Harford Mittens from a TOFT kit and the Winter Flora Cushion by Catherine Crochets – I’ll probably write up a blog post about some of these projects soon.

I’ve loved being involved in all the designs I’ve worked on this year, it’s all been rather creative! And of course there’s more to look forward to in 2023 from me, we’ve got the new Crochet Along for 2023, The Enchanted Wood, starting in a couple of weeks (squee!) and there’s some more amigurumi, home decor items and accessories that I’ll be sharing with you throughout the year, I’ve got plenty to keep my hooks busy!

I’d love to here about what you’ve finished in 2023, or what you are looking forward to making in 2023 – drop me a comment below.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Happy MAL day | Peppermint Pageant starts today!

Happy MAL day folks!

I hope you are enjoying a restful festive period and are now ready for a bit of hooky time.

All the folks that ordered the exclusive Peppermint Pageant MAL kit should have already received the gorgeous Yarn Whisperer yarn (plus fab extras), and the pattern went out to everyone a few days ago (from Kitey – so maybe check your junk mail if the pattern doesn’t seem to have appeared). So we should be all ready to begin!

The exclusive colourway that Kitey has come up with this time was inspired by Christmas! It contains a 50g skein of a fabulously rich tonal minty green that you would see in peppermints and in traditional fir trees. Then alongside that skein was a 50g skein of a beautiful semi-solid rich red – the unique variations in each make them just so special to work with.

These colours have been married up with a hank of natural yarn, because it’s beautiful in it’s own right, it’s actually one of my favourite things – to see natural yarn along side a hand dyed version as the colours really pop! And the merino Aran weight yarn I think is my new yarn crush – such a delight to crochet with!

And in amongst the kit there is THE MOST FABULOUS stitch marker, wooden button and pencil from Mrs G! So a little known fact about me is that I have a thing about stationery, I actually I do all my pattern writing in pencil, so I loved the addition of the engraved pencil, what a lovely reminder of the MAL each time I use it.

I also have a thing about things made in wood, which the little Christmas button was made from, I love the fact it has the date engraved on it to mark the project date. And of course the metal disc snowflake stitch marker was a perfect match for the project and is so fab and functional as all Mrs G’s stitch markers are (I have quite the collection).

For the full information about this particular MAL you can find all the details here (or via the top menu of this blog under the tab ‘CALS AND MALS’). But generally the idea is that the MAL is a relaxed event designed to be a lovely betwixtmas project – this time round we are making a Christmas stocking.

The Make Along will run from today (Monday 26 December 2022) until Thursday 26 January 2022 giving everyone plenty of time to make the pattern during the festive season and new year. You can of course start the pattern at anytime you wish, this deadline is just there for those that like to have one.

There will be support for the pattern as usual in my Facebook group; the KCACO-UK Crochet Community Group and in Kitey’s Virtual Stitch-n-B*tch zoom sessions – see full details on Kitey’s Insta page

SHARING WITH THE #PEPPERMINTPAGEANT MAKEALONG COMMUNITY

We hope you’ll share your photos with us on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – we’d love to see what you make! We will be sharing our progress with the hashtags #peppermintpageantmal #kcacouk #yarnwhisperer. If you’re blogging, feel free to leave links to your post(s) in the comments here.

You also may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available – I’ll just say that Kitey and I have already planned projects for well into 2024!

We do hope that you enjoy this fun make-along; Kitey and I can’t wait to see your wonderful stockings come to life!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along Planning

With about a month before The Enchanted Wood CAL begins I thought I’d share with you some more information so you can get planning; including yarn amounts and the colours that were used on both of the blankets.

I did mention some of the details in my first announcement post about the CAL (here) but I’ve got some more of the information I know you’ve been waiting for in this post. So let’s talk yarn!

Lifestyle shot of a the Enchanted Wood blanket on a chair. The Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Crochet along for 2023, in the Stylecraft Special DK Version.
The Enchanted Wood KCACOUKCAL23 – Stylecraft Special DK Version

Yarn Colours and Amounts

You will need at least 1500 / 1600g / 4425m / 4830yds for this CAL and I would suggest it works best in 8 – 10 different colours.

I mentioned before that I used Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo. + Cotton DK for my blanket which is lovely yarn to use. I used approximately the following colours in the following amounts:

Kits for both colourways have been put together by Black Sheep Wools:

Stylecraft Naturals; 60% Bamboo, 40% CottonBallsGramsMetresYds
Part 1Ecru (7128)1100250273
Part 2Seafoam (7143)1100250273
Part 3Bluestone (Shade 7164)1100250273
Part 4Natural (Shade 7146)1100250273
Pumice (Shade 7154)1100250273
Part 5Cameo (Shade 7166)1100250273
Nutmeg (Shade 7147)1100250273
Part 6Celery (Shade 7155)2200500546
Part 7Thyme (Shade 7156)2200500546
Part 8Spring Green (Shade 7126)550012001365
TOTALS16160040004368
Image of a lot of Stylecraft Naturals yarn, with one of the balls held up close to camera.

Then my lovely mum created her version of the blanket in Stylecraft Special DK, she used the following colours in the following amounts (though again in some colours you may have little bits left over):

Stylecraft Special DK ColoursBallsGramsMetresYds
Part 1Cream (Shade 1005)1100295322
Part 2Parchment (Shade 1218)1100295322
Part 3Mocha (Shade 1064)1100295322
Part 4Camel (Shade 1420)1100295322
Part 5Saffron (Shade 1081)2200590644
Part 6Pistachio (Shade 1822)2200590644
Part 7Meadow (Shade 1065)2200590644
Part 8Sage (Shade 1725)550014751610
TOTALS15150044254830

Prices are £69.99 for Stylecraft Natural Bamboo and Cotton (16 x 100g in total) and £29.99 (15 x 100g in total) for Stylecraft Special DK. Black Sheep Wools ship from the UK to Australia, Canada, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand, South Korea and USA, they also offer a click and collect for those who are very local (WA3). 

Hook Size:

I used a 3.5mm (US size E/4). If you were on the look out for a simple aluminium crochet hook (the kind I learnt to crochet with) then I have some in my Yarnybobs store or I also have other hooks and useful crochet tools linked in my Amazon Store.

Finished Blanket Size:

Both blankets finished up at roughly the same size when finished and measure Both blankets finished up at roughly the same size when finished and measure 122cm (48”) wide x 137cm (54”) long. The schematic for the blanket can be seen below:

Image of a the Enchanted Wood blanket schematic for the Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Crochet along for 2023.

Skill Level:

I would suggest that this pattern is rated as easy / intermediate. There are some sections that require a bit more concentration to them, but I’ve added both the written pattern and charts which will hopefully help.

CAL Accessories:

And don’t forget those all important CAL accessories and tools for making your blanket making:

Digital Pattern:

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms.

Shortly after the CAL has finished the PDF will also be added to my Etsy and LoveCrafts stores also.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

If you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters there of all experiences and it’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have. You can of course always contact me too here on the blog.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Ooo I’m excited! We can get our hooks stuck into part 1 on Friday 20 January – so save the date!!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.