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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 7

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Time for part 7 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Part 7: Half and Half Granny Square:

The British halfpenny (½p) coin was introduced in February 1971 and although I was born in the late 70’s I still remember going to the local corner shop for ½ penny chews as a youngster!  To celebrate all half things part 7 is a half and half twist on the classic granny square.  

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

Stitch Guidance: 

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

Apologies in advance for my rather wonky looking square! For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 7 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 7 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

And that’s it! Part 7 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 8 to be released on 20th April 2016.

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