Get your hooks ready, it’s granny square day! It’s time to share your square with the crochet community and be part of the biggest online crochet event of the year!
If you’ve not heard about Granny Square day before it’s an international online celebration on instagram which this year falls on Tuesday 15 August 2023. Granny Square Day was started several years ago by US crocheter Susan Regalia, who recognised that Instagram’s grid format could be used to replicate the block arrangement of a classic granny square blanket online. Others soon joined in the fun and Granny Square Day was born! Simply Crochet magazine then took over the reins of Granny Square day in 2018.
Simply Crochet is thrilled to be celebrating another granny square day on Instagram and they want everyone to join in! All you have to do is hook, snap and share using the hashtag #grannysquareday2023 resulting in the BIGGEST VIRTUAL CROCHET BLANKET IN THE WORLD!
As previous years Simply Crochet the latest issue of the magazine (Issue 139) comes with two supplements to get your hooks sunk into – A colour theory booklet to help level up your crochet skills and a book full of 52 granny squares to celebrate Granny Square Day with one square a week for a whole year!
And I’m really excited to say that I’ve designed two brand new granny square for this supplement – excitingly you can actually spy one of them on the front cover!
The first design is what I would say is a granny square for purists as it features the granny square stitch (UK 3 treble cluster / US 3 double crochet cluster), it’s called ‘Bobble Burst’ and a lovely bit of texture in a colourful square. It’s been classed as an easy peasy design – perfect for beginners.
I really like how this block turned out, it feels quite appropriate for a Spring / Summer project and would look great combined to make a blanket or even a bag.
In the supplement the blocks range in skill level; from the more simple to getting a bit more involved and my second design has been grouped in the slightly more tricky range – but I’d say it’s still an easy enough square for advanced beginners. It’s called ‘Flower Fiesta’ and I’d describe it as a fun bit of beginners tapestry crochet.
I used Rico Ricorumi for these blocks, with a 3.5mm hook (US E/4) which is a DK (Light Worsted) weight 100% cotton yarn that I had in my stash, but the designs would work equally well in any DK yarn or in fact with other fibres and yarn weights to make bigger or smaller blocks.
I know they aren’t for everyone but I’m a granny square fan, to me they are nothing to do with ‘grannys’ – they are just a super fun way to show how fun and versatile crochet can be! There’s something for everyone in the Simply Crochet A year of Granny Squares supplement from more traditional looking squares to modern contemporary designs.
Simply Crochet issue 139 is out now and is available in most supermarkets and newsagents and digitally at www.pocketmags.com.
My Squares:
Hit the button below for more block fun! Free squares will link directly to my blog or, where relevant, to a PDF of the pattern.
If you hook up any of the squares I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
I hope you enjoy this day of crafty celebration that brings together our fabulous hooky community!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m excited to share a brand new free crochet block pattern with you today called the Isaz Afghan Block. Named after the Viking word for ‘Ice’ this 8 inch (20cm2) crochet block is filled with wintery themed textures crochet stitches that would make a lovely textured addition to your crochet blanket.
Crochet squares I think are such fun things to play with because you can come up with unlimited ideas and colour combinations – I had real fun with the texture on this block.
I’ve used some Scheepjes Stone Washed XL for my square but you could easily use up scrap yarn to make several of the these blocks and join them into an afghan/ blanket, or a scarf maybe, or even a table runner.
This block pattern is part of the Charity Cozy Fall make along (MAL) where 60 unique blanket squares are released for the month of October to form a cozy blanket. You can find all the MAL info in this post here, along with a link to a PDF bundle for either crochet, knit or Tunisian crochet squares (or to all three in a Trifecta saver bundle). 30% of all proceeds go towards supporting children in need as a donation to Cure Childhood Cancer. The PDF bundle is only available for the duration of the MAL– so grab your bundle now!
Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.
Pin this project for later:
Isaz Afghan Block
The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Pattern Notes
The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st
The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.
Pattern
Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 2 tr into the ring, ch3, [ 3tr, ch3 ] repeat from [ … ] twice more, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 12sts / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch1, [ (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the same sp, ch3, miss 3 sts ] repeat from [ … ] three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join.. 8sts / 8 x ch3-sps
Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch3-sp; ch6 (counts at first tr + ch3, here and throughout), 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in the next ch3-sp ] repeat twice more, ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 28sts / 8 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.
Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch3-sp, repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 44sts / 4 x ch3-sps.
Rnd 5: Join Yarn A with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch5 (counts at first htr + ch3, here and throughout) 1htr in the same sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, sl st to the top of the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 52sts / 4 x ch3-sps.
Rnd 6: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next 3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next
3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 44sts / 16 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.
Rnd 7: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch-sp ] repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 68sts / 4 x ch3-sps
Rnd 8: With Yarn A; ch5, 1htr in the same ch-sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts. Sl st to the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. to Fasten off A and weave in ends, 76sts / 4 x ch3- sps
Rnd 9: Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 2tr in the same sp, [ 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts (2tr, ch3, 2tr) ] repeat [ … ] three times, 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts. 1tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 92sts / 4 x ch3-sps
And that’s it!
BLOCKING
Your square may benefit from being blocked;
1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board
3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)
4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
If you’ve not heard about Granny Square day before it’s an international online celebration on instagram which this year falls on Monday 15 August 2022. Granny Square Day was started several years ago by US crocheter Susan Regalia, who recognised that Instagram’s grid format could be used to replicate the block arrangement of a classic granny square blanket online. Others soon joined in the fun and Granny Square Day was born! Simply Crochet magazine then took over the reins of Granny Square day in 2018.
Simply Crochet is thrilled to be celebrating a 4th year hosting this huge Instagram event resulting in the BIGGEST VIRTUAL CROCHET BLANKET IN THE WORLD! All you have to do is hook, snap and share! All Granny Squares use#grannysquareday2022and all Granny Square related projects use#grannysquaremakes2022
As previous years Simply Crochet the latest issue of the magazine (Issue 126) comes with a very special bonus pattern booklet. You can get really creative with the ‘A year of Granny Squares’ pattern booklet, featuring 52 brand new designs – that’s one for every week of the year! And I’m really excited to say that you can find two new granny square blocks by me inside. You can actually spy one of them on the front cover!
The first design is the closest to a traditional granny square, it’s called ‘Daisy Daisy’ and features a little daisy on a lawn of green grass with a pretty border. It’s been classed as an easy peasy design – perfect for beginners.
For the granny square purists out there I tried to feature some of the customary granny square clusters in each of the designs. Though I also wanted to play on the traditional and come up with something fresh and new. I really like how this block turned out, it feels quite appropriate for a Spring / Summer project.
In the supplement the blocks range in skill level; from the more simple to getting a bit more involved and my second design has been grouped in the slightly more tricky range – but I’d say it’s still an easy eough square for advanced beginners. It’s called ‘Rainbow Burst’ designed in part because I simply can’t resist a bit of a rainbow.
I used Rico Ricorumi for these blocks, with a 3mm hook (closest US size C/2 or D/3) which is a DK (Light Worsted) weight 100% cotton yarn that I had in my stash, but the designs would work equally well in any DK yarn or in fact with other fibres and yarn weights to make bigger or smaller blocks.
To me granny squares are nothing to do with ‘grandmas’ – they are just a super fun way to show how fun and versatile crochet can be! There’s something for everyone in the Simply Crochet squares and motifs supplement from more traditional looking squares to modern contemporary designs.
Simply Crochet issue 126 is available in most supermarkets and newsagents and digitally at www.pocketmags.com.
My Squares:
If you’re new to my blog you might not know that I’ve got several block patterns that are either fun square motifs or use the granny stitch in a more traditional design. Some are available to purchase from my pattern stores (links below) and some are free patterns available here on the blog.
Check out the links below for more Granny Square fun! Please note that most links are to Ravelry as that’s the most comprehensive list of all my patterns – not all squares are currently available from other sources. Free squares will link directly to my blog. Sizes of squares also differ, please see finished square size for full details.
And to celebrate Granny Square Day further, over at Dear Ewe, we’re holding a flash sale with 20% discount on our chart themed items. Check out the Dear Ewe Blog post for all the details, or go straight to the shop and use code: GSD22 at the checkout – sale ends Thursday 18 August.
If you hook up any of the squares I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
A few months ago I was contacted by the folks at Performance Yarn to see if I would like to try out some of their products. Never one to shy away from trying something new, especially yarn related, I said yes please – and they kindly sent me a few of their products to try.
In the package that arrived their were a few different yarns; there were some balls of their Lollipop 100% organic cotton in a variegated shades of white, reds, browns and pinks. There was another type of yarn called Woolinen, which is a gorgeous 80% merino superwash and 20% linen each in a solid forest green and bracken brown colour, and finally some Cotton Bay which is 100% combed cotton in some lovely bright pink, yellow and white. That particular yarn caught my eye for a project that I’ve had on my mind to do for awhile now; I’ve been wanting to make some crochet cloths.
I’ve been asked a few times about good patterns for a newbie crocheters to try, especially if they don’t like the idea of making granny squares. Well crochet dishcloths are agreat starter project and they are a great way to learn new stitches. As they are usually made with textured crochet stitches they are ideal for cleaning either your dishes or scrubbing your face. They make great gifts (for housewarming or for a spa bundle) and are usually quite quick to make.
The best type of yarn to use for crochet washcloths is either cotton (or a cotton blend) just like the combed Cotton Bay I was sent to try. Cotton is durable, absorbent, washable and dries quickly and fully so perfect for cleaning cloths.
The Crochet Cloth Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post double crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from back to front around the post of the stitch of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Patterns
LEMON PEEL CLOTH
Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as a st
Row 1: With Yarn A; ch42, 1dc in second ch from hook, [1tr in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts
Row 2: Ch2, 1tr in the first st, [1dc in the next st, 1tr in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the first st, [1tr in the next st, 1dc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.
Rows 4 – 32: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)
EVEN MOSS STITCH CLOTH
Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as a st
Do not pull your slip stitches too tight
Row 1: With Yarn B; ch42, 1htr in second ch from hook, [sl st in the next ch, 1htr in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts
Row 2: Ch1, sl st on the top of the previous 1htr [ 1htr on top of the sl st of the previous row, sl st on top of the htr of the previous row ] repeat across the row until the end, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, 1htr on the top of the previous 1htr [ sl st on top of the htr of the previous row, 1 htr on top of the sl st of the previous row ] repeat across the row until the end, turn.
Rows 4 – 46: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)
VINTAGE RASPBERRY STITCH CLOTH
Beginning ch any even number of stitches;
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st
Do not work the FPdc too tightly
Row 1: With Yarn A; ch43, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each st until end., turn. 42 sts
Row 2: Ch1, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the last 2sts, 1dc in the remaining sts, turn.
Rows 4 – 44: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)
Edging for all Cloths
Do not fasten off after the last row but work 1dc evenly along each row and row end (with 3dc in each corner). Fasten off and weave in ends.
BLOCKING
Your cloths may benefit from being blocked;
1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board
3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)
4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.
And that’s it! I hope you enjoy using your new cloths!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I’m so excited to finally share with you a brand new free crochet block pattern. It’s called an Autumn Turn and it’s inspired by the turning of the seasons.
I love Autumn, and I love nothing better than going for a lovely walk when it’s a crisp Autumn day, where it’s not too cold, but you have to get a bit wrapped up in some woollies. Inspired by the colours and textures you might see if you are out and about this time of year the Autumn Turn Block makes for a cosy project that would look great together in a blanket or as a component in a multi-square afghan.
The Autumn Turn pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Pin this project for later:
Autumn Turn Afghan Block
Materials
Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted), Scheepjes Stone Washed XL used in photographs.
Moonstone (841) YARN A
Smokey Quartz (842) YARN B
Coral (856) YARN C
Yellow Jasper (849) YARN D
Canada Jade (846) YARN E
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
V-Stitch (Vst): (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in same st
Puff Stitch (PF): In this pattern the puff stitches should be worked as follows;Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) twice more. times (9 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through 8 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook to close.
Spike double crochet (SPtr): The spike stitch is worked using the same steps as a treble crochet stitch, but instead of working into the current row where you are crocheting, you drop down and work it into a row or space below the current row. You always draw the yarn up so that the top of the stitch is still exactly where the top would be if this were a normal treble.
Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern Notes
The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st
The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.
Working in the Front / Back Loop Only (FLO / BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Pattern
Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11 tr into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (12sts)
Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch3, 1tr in the same st, working in BLO, 2tr into each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. (24sts)
Rnd 3: Join Yarn A with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch1, [ 1dc in 2 sts, then working in FLO of rnd 1, SPtr } repeat { … } around. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (36sts; 24 dc / 12 SPtr)
Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch2, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next [1 htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the next ] repeat { … } around. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (48sts)
Rnd 5: Join Yarn D with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch5 (Counts as 1tr + 2ch), 1tr in the same st, miss st, PF in the next st, [miss st, V-St in the next st, miss st, PF in the next st, miss st] into each st around, sl st to the top of the 3rd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. (48sts; 12PF / 12 Vsts / 24ch2-sps)
Rnd 6: Starting from the join from the previous rnd, into the next ch2 sp along; ch3, 2tr in the same sp, ch2, 3tr in the same sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd, [ (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in the next ch2-sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd ] repeat [ …} around. Fasten off D and weave in ends. (12 petals)
Rnd 7: Join Yarn E with a sl st to the top of any sl st; Ch6 (counts as 1tr + 3ch), 1dc in the next ch2 sp (of the petal tip), ch3, [ 1tr in the next sl st, ch3, 1dc in the next ch3sp, ch3] repeat [ …} around, ending with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch. Fasten off E and weave in ends. (24sts + 24 x ch3-sps)
Rnd 8: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any dc st, Ch4 (Counts as 1dtr) 2dtr, ch3, 3dtr in the same st, [ 2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, (3dtr, ch3, 3dtr) in the next st ] repeat [ …} twice more, 2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (92sts + 4 x ch3-sps)
Rnd 9: Join B with a sl st to any ch3-sp corner, ch1, [ (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in the same sp, 1dc in each st across ] repeat [ …} around until end. Sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (100sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed your turn through the season.
BLOCKING
Your square may benefit from being blocked;
1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board
3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)
4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
You may remember back in June that I had fun creating a new free 12″ (30cm) crocheted block called Encompass Me. I do love to create these afghan components as they have potential to be so many things! I’m now going to raise my own stakes by introducing a brand NEW free block for you.
Allow me to introduce to you the Poppin’ Spades Afghan Square! Inspired by a poker game the Poppin’ Square Afghan Square combines a fun combination of stitches to create a pleasing textured effect that I ‘wager’ any card player will love!
This is a great block to have up one’s sleeve to add as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or used as a pretty pot holder or cushion cover.
You could either follow suit and use colours similar to mine, which I felt fitted my theme, or you could shuffle your colours and see what top trumps you can come up with!
The following Poppin’ Spades Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern works best with four colors – referred to in this pattern as:
YARN A Dark Grey 45g / 68m YARN B Yellow 15g / 23m YARN C Light Grey 20g / 30m YARN D White 15g / 23m
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 8dc= 2 inches (5.08cm)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
FPtr/FPdc UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
PC Popcorn Stitch
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UKFront Post treble /Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn Stitch (PC): Work 5dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Changing Colour: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.
When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate long unused strands carried across the back of the work.
Pattern:
· Ch3 at the start of any rnd counts as a st.
· All ch’s are included in the st count.
Rnd 1: With A, ch5, sl st to form a ring, [ch3, 3tr/dc, ch3, sl st to ring] repeat three times. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 4 petals
Rnd 2: With B, sl st in-between any of the petals from rnd 1. Ch6 (counts as 1tr/dc + 3ch), 1tr/dc in-between the same petal, then work [ch3, 1tr/dc, ch3, 1tr/dc, in-between the next petal] repeat three times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 8sts + 4 x ch-3sps
Push the petals forward from behind the ch3-sps.
Rnd 3: Sl st to the nearest ch3-sp. Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [3tr/dc in the next ch3-sp, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the next ch3-sp], repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. 36sts / 9sts each side
Rnd 4: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 7sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch2-sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 52sts / 13sts each side
Rnd 5: Ch3, [cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr/dc of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / C and weave in ends. 68sts / 17sts each side
Rnd 6: With D, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts] repeat twice, [cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / D and weave in ends. 84sts / 21sts each side
Rnd 7: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next st, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / B and weave in ends. 100sts / 25sts each side
Rnd 8: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2,) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / B and weave in ends. 116sts
Rnd 9: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, [cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts] repeat twice, cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / D and weave in ends. 132sts / 33 sts each side
Rnd 10: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1 tr/dc in the next 31sts, 2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ) in the ch-2 sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 148sts / 37sts each side
Rnd 11: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 34sts, [(2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), 1tr/dc in the next 35sts] repeat three times, (2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. 164sts / 41sts each side
I was recently asked by the owner of the Artisan Boutique, where I sometimes do some crochet workshops, if it would be possible to mend a customers granny square blanket for her.
The blanket had been so well loved, and passed through a variety of different children in the family, that some of the squares had unravelled or almost disintegrated entirely!
The blanket was in a very sorry state with nine squares in total needing repair but I thought it could be fixed successfully – and I thought you guys might find it useful to know how to repair a granny square blanket too, just in case you are ever faced with a broken granny situation.
Repairing a granny square does take a bit of time! Depending on the severity of hole and the size of the square you’ll need to fix you’ll firstly want to choose a time where you can concentrate and be uninterrupted, as once you are in the process of repairing you really don’t want to be having to get up and run around somewhere.
To give you an example of time to set aside most of the squares I had to fix were of four rounds – and it took me at least an hour to make the new piece and fix that into place (and I’ve been told I’m not a slow crocheter). You could make a fair few brand new granny squares in that time. But for those blankets steeped in family stories and history that NEED to be kept as a keepsake, this method can be a perfect lifesaver!
This method is for any blanket that has a granny square that has unravelled from the centre but that has salvageable sections on the outer edges of the square.
What you will need:
Scrap bits of yarn roughly matching the yarn weight, fibre content (e.g. acrylic) and colours of the square you are going to replace,
A crochet hook to match the previous gauge, I do this by eye but roughly you’d probably use a 4mm (US size G) for DK (Light Worsted) or 5mm (US size H) for Aran (Worsted). If you are not sure make up a square with a hook first and see if it will fit the gap. A bit smaller is better, then it won’t be prone to sagging when it’s washed at a later date.
Sharp pair of scissors,
Lots of stitch markers with enough space on them to hold a cluster of three stitches,
A large wool / tapestry needle,
Optional: A small crochet hook (such as a 2.75 / US size C) to help pass the loop through stitches.
Optional: A table. Whilst you can make repairs with your crochet on your knee you’ll find it infinitely easier to fix broken squares working on a flat surface with you sitting comfortably!
Step 1:
Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It’s important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.
Sometimes you can save the centre of a square, you have cut away, to use again on a new square, just unravel where possible and use the yarn to remake your new granny square.
Step 2:
Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.
Step 3:
Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.
Step 4:
Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.
Step 5:
Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.
Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.
Step 6:
With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.
Remove the stitch marker from the end of the cluster you have just passed your yarn / loop through. Double check that your square is still in the right place – it’s very easy to misalign your squares as you work!
To complete a corner, work the first granny square stitches next to the corner as usual, then thread the yarn / loop, through the bottom of TWO cluster of granny stitches (that form the corner), ch2, and then work the next granny square stitches as normal. Adjust the ch2 so that it fits through the bottom of the two clusters of granny stitches.
Step 7:
Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.
And that’s it!
I hope that this tutorial helps your old blankets live on for many more years to come! Let me know if you find this tutorial useful, I’d love to hear the tales of blankets that have been saved!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
The lovely people over at Anchor Yarns were very kind enough recently to send me out some of their new Baby Pure Cotton yarn to play with.
Anchor Baby Pure Cotton is made from 100 % cotton, natural, combed and not mercerised (so matte not shiny) and it’s extremely soft on the hands to work with. It’s available in 24 colours which range from a soft muted powdered look or your more traditional pastel shades.
I’d say it’s totally suitable for modern fashion garments, home decor projects and amigurumi as well as quick and easy projects for baby. And it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant (love this) to be entirely safe for a new-born.
So I had a play with the yarn, and as it’s Granny Square Day tomorrow, it seemed only appropriate that I create a new free pattern for you all to enjoy! Allow me to introduce to you the Sherbet Star Granny Square.
Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. A collection of these squares put together would look great as a cushion or blanket and you can be as adventurous as you like with your colours! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.
The Sherbert Star Granny Square pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 2 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 3 mm (US size D/3)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UKTreble 3 together / US double crochet 3 together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
UK Treble 4 together / US double crochet 4 together (tr/dc4tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, * pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop * repeat from * to * three times, yarn over pull through all five loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
The Pattern works best using four colours per square; three inner colours and an outside joining colour. Use the same colour as rnd 4 for rnd 6 to bring the colours of your squares together.
Pattern:
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch8, sl st to form a ring; 4ch, 23dtr/tr into the ring, sl st top of the beginning 4ch to join. 24sts
Rnd 2: Ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, * ch4, miss st, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * until last ch4, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.
Rnd 3: With YARN B; Sl st to any ch4 loop, ch3, tr/dc3tog in same ch4-sp (counts as first tr/dc4tog), ch4, * tr/dc4tog in the next ch4-sp, ch4 * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.
Rnd 4: With YARN C; Sl st to the top of any tr/dc4tog of rnd 3; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.
Rnd 5: With YARN D; Sl st to any ch3-sp of rnd 4; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3tr/dc in the next four spaces (between htr/hdc’s of rnd 4), [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc in the next four spaces, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.
Rnd 6: With YARN C; Sl st to any missed st of rnd 1, * ch4, sl st to the top of the tr/dc4tog of rnd 3, ch4, miss next empty st of rnd 1, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * in each st around until end. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
And that’s it!
If you hook up the Sherbet Star Granny Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #SHERBERTSTARGRANNY or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I recently designed a mandala for a workshop I did at Abakhan fabrics. I needed a quick creative make and one where you could just use small bits of yarn. A mandala seems to lend itself perfectly as a little demo pattern as it’s a circle made up of different patterns and colours.
For the Mini Meditative Mandala design I used some Rico Design Ricorumi that I already had in my stash. These cute 25g balls are perfect for little projects like this mandala, though you can use any scraps that you have in your stash. Cotton yarn is also particularly good for mandalas as it shows off stitch definition and creates a nice neat, firm fabric when worked up.
There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with! I made one with some rainbow colours and I think the end result looks a bit like a sunflower! By simply changing some of the colours around you can get a whole new look! The only other thing I did differently on this version is on Rnd 6 I worked it as follows:
Rnd 6: Sl st yarn to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, * 1dc/sc in the back loop of the next 6sts, 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. (60sts)
I bought a little hanging hoop to pop it in and I now really want to make myself a mandala wall with all sorts of different sized and coloured mandalas on – just need to convince my husband how excellent it would look!
And what can you do with mandalas like these when you’ve finished them? Well you can use it as a decorative piece hanging piece of art like I have, a coaster, or even as a motif sewn onto the front of a plain cushion.
The following Medative Mandala pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: 4 mm (US size G/6)
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 4tr= 2cm / 0.79inch
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 13 cm diameter (5.12inches )
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Notes: The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first treble st.
Rnd 1: With YARN A ch5 and sl st to form a ring, Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), work (1tr/dc, 1ch) eleven times into the ring, sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off YARN A (12sts + 12ch1-sps).
Rnd 2: Sl st YARN B into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), 1tr/dc in the same sp, work (1tr/dc, 1ch, 1tr/dc) in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off YARN B (24sts + 12ch1-sps).
Rnd 3: Sl st YARN A into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch3, 2tr/dc in the same sp, work 3tr/dc in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off YARN A (36sts).
Rnd 4: Sl st YARN B in between any 3tr/dc cluster of rnd 3; 1dc/sc in the same sp, * ch4, sl st in between the next 3tr/tr cluster of rnd 3. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning dc/sc to join. (12 sts + 12 x 4ch-sps)
Rnd 5: Sl st into the next ch4-sp; ch3, 5tr/dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2, * 6tr/dc in the next sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN B (48sts + 12 x 2ch-sps)
Rnd 6: Sl st YARN A to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts, * 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN A (60sts)
Rnd 7: Sl st YARN B to any dc/sc of rnd 6; ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next *1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc in the next. Repeat from * around until end. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (70sts)
And that’s it!
If you hook up the Mini Medative Mandala I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.
Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!
Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.
The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.
There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!
And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.
The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )
You will also need:
Scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished Size: 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)
ABBREVIATIONS:
st(s) stitch(es)
st sl slip stitch
ch(s) chain
dc/sc UK double crochet / US single crochet
htr/hdc UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc UK treble / US double crochet
BPtr/BPdc UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
FPtr/FPdc UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
dtr/tr UK double treble / US treble
STITCH GUIDANCE:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
USDouble Crochet 3 together / USDouble Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
UKBack Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UKFront Post treble /Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.
The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.
Pattern:
Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).
Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)
Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.
Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).
Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.
Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)
Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)
