Free Crochet Pattern | Poppin’ Spades Afghan Block

You may remember back in June that I had fun creating a new free 12″ (30cm) crocheted block called Encompass Me. I do love to create these afghan components as they have potential to be so many things! I’m now going to raise my own stakes by introducing a brand NEW free block for you.

Allow me to introduce to you the Poppin’ Spades Afghan Square! Inspired by a poker game the Poppin’ Square Afghan Square combines a fun combination of stitches to create a pleasing textured effect that I ‘wager’ any card player will love!

This is a great block to have up one’s sleeve to add as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or used as a pretty pot holder or cushion cover.

You could either follow suit and use colours similar to mine, which I felt fitted my theme, or you could shuffle your colours and see what top trumps you can come up with!

The following Poppin’ Spades Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Poppin Spades 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Pattern works best with four colors – referred to in this pattern as:

YARN A Dark Grey 45g / 68m
YARN B Yellow 15g / 23m
YARN C Light Grey 20g / 30m
YARN D White 15g / 23m

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 8dc= 2 inches (5.08cm)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble
  • PC Popcorn Stitch

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn Stitch (PC): Work 5dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Changing Colour: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are  carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Pattern:

· Ch3 at the start of any rnd counts as a st.

· All ch’s are included in the st count.

Rnd 1: With A, ch5, sl st to form a ring, [ch3, 3tr/dc, ch3, sl st to ring] repeat three times. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 4 petals

Rnd 2: With B, sl st in-between any of the petals from rnd 1.  Ch6 (counts as 1tr/dc + 3ch), 1tr/dc in-between the same petal, then work [ch3, 1tr/dc, ch3, 1tr/dc, in-between the next petal] repeat three times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 8sts + 4 x ch-3sps

Push the petals forward from behind the ch3-sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st to the nearest ch3-sp.  Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [3tr/dc in the next ch3-sp, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the next ch3-sp], repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. 36sts / 9sts each side

Rnd 4: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 7sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch2-sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 52sts / 13sts each side

Rnd 5: Ch3, [cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr/dc of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / C and weave in ends. 68sts / 17sts each side

Rnd 6: With D, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts] repeat twice, [cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / D and weave in ends. 84sts / 21sts each side

Rnd 7: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next st, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / B and weave in ends. 100sts / 25sts each side

Rnd 8: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2,) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / B and weave in ends. 116sts

Rnd 9: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, [cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts]  repeat twice, cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / D and weave in ends. 132sts / 33 sts each side

Rnd 10: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1 tr/dc in the next 31sts, 2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ) in the ch-2 sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 148sts / 37sts each side

Rnd 11: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 34sts, [(2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), 1tr/dc in the next 35sts] repeat three times, (2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. 164sts / 41sts each side

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Poppin Spades Block I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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How to repair a broken granny square blanket

I was recently asked by the owner of the Artisan Boutique, where I sometimes do some crochet workshops, if it would be possible to mend a customers granny square blanket for her.

The blanket had been so well loved, and passed through a variety of different children in the family, that some of the squares had unravelled or almost disintegrated entirely!

The blanket was in a very sorry state with nine squares in total needing repair but I thought it could be fixed successfully – and I thought you guys might find it useful to know how to repair a granny square blanket too, just in case you are ever faced with a broken granny situation.

Repairing a granny square does take a bit of time! Depending on the severity of hole and the size of the square you’ll need to fix you’ll firstly want to choose a time where you can concentrate and be uninterrupted, as once you are in the process of repairing you really don’t want to be having to get up and run around somewhere.

To give you an example of time to set aside most of the squares I had to fix were of four rounds – and it took me at least an hour to make the new piece and fix that into place (and I’ve been told I’m not a slow crocheter). You could make a fair few brand new granny squares in that time. But for those blankets steeped in family stories and history that NEED to be kept as a keepsake, this method can be a perfect lifesaver!

This method is for any blanket that has a granny square that has unravelled from the centre but that has salvageable sections on the outer edges of the square.

What you will need:

  • Scrap bits of yarn roughly matching the yarn weight, fibre content (e.g. acrylic) and colours of the square you are going to replace,
  • A crochet hook to match the previous gauge, I do this by eye but roughly you’d probably use a 4mm (US size G) for DK (Light Worsted) or 5mm (US size H) for Aran (Worsted). If you are not sure make up a square with a hook first and see if it will fit the gap. A bit smaller is better, then it won’t be prone to sagging when it’s washed at a later date.
  • Sharp pair of scissors,
  • Lots of stitch markers with enough space on them to hold a cluster of three stitches,
  • A large wool / tapestry needle,
  • Optional: A small crochet hook (such as a 2.75 / US size C) to help pass the loop through stitches.
  • Optional: A table. Whilst you can make repairs with your crochet on your knee you’ll find it infinitely easier to fix broken squares working on a flat surface with you sitting comfortably!

Step 1:

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It’s important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Sometimes you can save the centre of a square, you have cut away, to use again on a new square, just unravel where possible and use the yarn to remake your new granny square.

Step 2:

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Step 3:

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Step 4:

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Step 5:

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Step 6:

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

Remove the stitch marker from the end of the cluster you have just passed your yarn / loop through. Double check that your square is still in the right place – it’s very easy to misalign your squares as you work!

To complete a corner, work the first granny square stitches next to the corner as usual, then thread the yarn / loop, through the bottom of TWO cluster of granny stitches (that form the corner), ch2, and then work the next granny square stitches as normal. Adjust the ch2 so that it fits through the bottom of the two clusters of granny stitches.

Step 7:

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

And that’s it!

I hope that this tutorial helps your old blankets live on for many more years to come! Let me know if you find this tutorial useful, I’d love to hear the tales of blankets that have been saved!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Sherbet Star Granny Square

The lovely people over at Anchor Yarns were very kind enough recently to send me out some of their new Baby Pure Cotton yarn to play with.

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton is made from 100 % cotton, natural, combed and not mercerised (so matte not shiny) and it’s extremely soft on the hands to work with. It’s available in 24 colours which range from a soft muted powdered look or your more traditional pastel shades.

I’d say it’s totally suitable for modern fashion garments, home decor projects and amigurumi as well as quick and easy projects for baby. And it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant (love this) to be entirely safe for a new-born.

So I had a play with the yarn, and as it’s Granny Square Day tomorrow, it seemed only appropriate that I create a new free pattern for you all to enjoy! Allow me to introduce to you the Sherbet Star Granny Square.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. A collection of these squares put together would look great as a cushion or blanket and you can be as adventurous as you like with your colours! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

The Sherbert Star Granny Square pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 2 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Sherbet Star Granny Square

MATERIALS

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2 (Sport / Baby)

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton 4ply used in photographs.

· YARN A       Raspberry (Shade: 00430)      

· YARN B         Pastel Pink (Shade: 00431)

· YARN C         Pastel Yellow (Shade: 00106)

· YARN D         Beige (Shade: 00404)      

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3 mm (US size D/3)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble 3 together / US double crochet 3 together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Treble 4 together / US double crochet 4 together (tr/dc4tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, * pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop * repeat from * to * three times, yarn over pull through all five loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

The Pattern works best using four colours per square; three inner colours and an outside joining colour. Use the same colour as rnd 4 for rnd 6 to bring the colours of your squares together.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch8, sl st to form a ring; 4ch, 23dtr/tr into the ring, sl st top of the beginning 4ch to join. 24sts

Rnd 2: Ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, * ch4, miss st, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * until last ch4, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 3: With YARN B; Sl st to any ch4 loop, ch3, tr/dc3tog in same ch4-sp (counts as first tr/dc4tog), ch4, * tr/dc4tog in the next ch4-sp, ch4 * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 4: With YARN C; Sl st to the top of any tr/dc4tog of rnd 3; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 5: With YARN D; Sl st to any ch3-sp of rnd 4; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3tr/dc in the next four spaces (between htr/hdc’s of rnd 4), [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc in the next four spaces, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 6: With YARN C; Sl st to any missed st of rnd 1, * ch4, sl st to the top of the tr/dc4tog of rnd 3,  ch4, miss  next empty st of rnd 1, 1dc/sc in the next st *  repeat from * to * in each st around until end.  Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Sherbet Star Granny Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #SHERBERTSTARGRANNY or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Mini Meditative Mandala

I recently designed a mandala for a workshop I did at Abakhan fabrics. I needed a quick creative make and one where you could just use small bits of yarn. A mandala seems to lend itself perfectly as a little demo pattern as it’s a circle made up of different patterns and colours.

For the Mini Meditative Mandala design I used some Rico Design Ricorumi that I already had in my stash. These cute 25g balls are perfect for little projects like this mandala, though you can use any scraps that you have in your stash. Cotton yarn is also particularly good for mandalas as it shows off stitch definition and creates a nice neat, firm fabric when worked up.

There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with! I made one with some rainbow colours and I think the end result looks a bit like a sunflower! By simply changing some of the colours around you can get a whole new look! The only other thing I did differently on this version is on Rnd 6 I worked it as follows:

Rnd 6: Sl st yarn to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, * 1dc/sc in the back loop of the next 6sts, 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the  beginning 3ch to join. (60sts)

I bought a little hanging hoop to pop it in and I now really want to make myself a mandala wall with all sorts of different sized and coloured mandalas on – just need to convince my husband how excellent it would look!

And what can you do with mandalas like these when you’ve finished them? Well you can use it as a decorative piece hanging piece of art like I have, a coaster, or even as a motif sewn onto the front of a plain cushion.

The following Medative Mandala pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Mini Meditative Mandala

MATERIALS

Yarn: 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Double Knit / Light Worsted)

Rico Ricorumi DK used in photographs.

  • 5g / 11.6m  Teal (Shade  040)                              YARN A
  • 5g / 11.6m    Light Blue (Shade 033)                  YARN B

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 4 mm (US size G/6)

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 4tr= 2cm / 0.79inch

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:   13 cm diameter (5.12inches )

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Notes:  The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first treble st.

Rnd 1: With YARN A ch5 and sl st to form a ring, Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), work (1tr/dc, 1ch) eleven times into the ring, sl st to the third ch of the  beginning ch to join.  Fasten off YARN A (12sts + 12ch1-sps).

Rnd 2: Sl st YARN B into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch4 (counts as first tr/dc + 1ch), 1tr/dc in the same sp, work (1tr/dc, 1ch, 1tr/dc) in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch to join.  Fasten off YARN B (24sts + 12ch1-sps).

Rnd 3: Sl st YARN A into any ch1-sp of previous rnd. Ch3, 2tr/dc in the same sp, work 3tr/dc in each ch-sp around until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join.  Fasten off YARN A (36sts).

Rnd 4: Sl st YARN B in between any 3tr/dc cluster of rnd 3; 1dc/sc in the same sp, * ch4, sl st in between the next 3tr/tr cluster of rnd 3. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning dc/sc to join. (12 sts + 12 x 4ch-sps)

Rnd 5: Sl st into the next ch4-sp; ch3, 5tr/dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2, * 6tr/dc in the next sp, ch2, 2dc/sc in the next ch4-sp, ch2. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN B (48sts + 12 x 2ch-sps)

Rnd 6: Sl st YARN A to any first dc/sc of the two dc/sc’s of rnd 5; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 2tr/dc in the next dc/sc of rnd 5, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts, * 2tr/dc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 6sts. Repeat from * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning 3ch to join. Fasten off YARN A (60sts)

Rnd 7: Sl st YARN B to any dc/sc of rnd 6; ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next *1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc in the next. Repeat from * around until end. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (70sts)

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Mini Medative Mandala I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Encompass Me Afghan Block

When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.

Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!

Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.

The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.

There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!

And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.

The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Encompass Me 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Schjeepjes Stonewashed XL used in photographs.

  • 20g / 30m  Moon Stone (Shade  841)            YARN A
  • 18g / 27m Green Jade (Shade 846)                YARN B
  • 43g / 65m Yellow Jasper (Shade 849)            YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • BPtr/BPdc       UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • US Double Crochet 3 together / US Double Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over,   insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.

The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).

Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat  […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)

Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat  […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Encompass Me Afghan Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Joining and Edging

SSCAL18-The-End

Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:

Stitch-Story-Part13-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Joining your blocks together

First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design. 

Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.

Top tips for joining:

  1. When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
  2. When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
  3. Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.

Whip-stitch:

  1. Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
  3. Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
  4. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Slip stitch join:

  1. Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
  3. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Post Stitch Rib Border

I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed.  I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).

Joining

Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join

Corner

Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends

Schematics

Heather-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

Jacki-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…

Esthers-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!

Irish-Blessing

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 12 – The Bee Keeper

SSCAL18-Block12-Blog

Well ladies and gents it’s time for the final block of the Stitch Story blanket! Then it’s just the joining and edging to go and we are done for this year’s crochet-along, and you will have a fabulous blanket all ready to use or gift at Christmas! 

This next block is one of my favourites and was actually going to be the first block in the CAL as it utilises only very easy stitches, however it got moved to the end because it is one of those patterns that you have to concentrate on to get right, but I have included some helpful tips from my testers below.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able.

You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation was available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 12 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 12 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part12-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Honeycomb: The symbol of a hard worker bee. It’s a lucky stitch signifying hard work and sweet rewards!

Design 12: The Bee Keeper

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block12SML-SSCAL

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 26, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (25 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (RS) : Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-25: Repeat rows 2-5,  at the end of row 25 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12SML-SSCAL-CHART

The pattern does not use difficult stitches but it can be tricky to keep a tab on the rows so you know which row you are on.  One of my testers made this very handy chart (below) which you might find helpful:

Block-12-Row-Help

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

BlBlock12_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The ch2, at the beginning of a row,  count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2: (RS): Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. 

Row 6-49: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 49 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 11 – Six Stitch Braid

SSCAL-Block11

Well we find ourselves at the penultimate block of the Stitch Story CAL Block 11! Don’t let this block intimidate you! It might look a little scary but it’s only made up from three stitches and it’s not so bad once you get into the rhythm of it.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 10 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 11 is available via the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part11-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Six Stitched Braid: representing the strands of life. The strands when twisted together with others are part of a complex whole.

Design 11: Six Stitched Braid

Hook: 4mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Front Post Double Treble / US Front Post Treble Crochet (FPdtr/FPtr)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Double Treble / US Front Post Treble (FPdtr/FPtr): Yarn over twice and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch of the row below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st  that you’re working around), yarn over pull through two loops (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over pull through  remaining two loops left on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block11SML-SSCAL

Row 1: (WS) Ch26, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (25sts)

Row 2-5: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 6: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * miss 2 htr/hdc (of row 5), 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of the next 2 sts (of row   

5 – these are stitches 1 and 2) then working IN FRONT of the FPdtr/FPtr just made work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in each of the sts missed (stitches 3 and 4), then work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next 2 sts (after the first 2 FPdtr/FPtr made—stitches 5 and 6) * These 6 FPdtr/FPtr mark the beginning of a six stranded braid. 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 4 sts, turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of the FPdtr/FPtr on stitches 1 and 2 (of row 6),  miss stitches  3 and 4 of row 6, 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of stitches 5 and 6 (of row 6), then working BEHIND the sts just made, work 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 6), * 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the            remaining 4 sts, turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 10: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * miss the FPdtr/FPtr sts 1 and 2 of row 8, 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of 3 and 4 (of row 8),  then working IN FRONT of the FPdtr/FPtr just made work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in 1 and 2, then work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in 5 and 6 (after the first 2 FPdtr/FPtr made), 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 4 sts.

Row 11: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 12: repeat row 8 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 10)

Row 13: repeat row 9

Row 14: repeat row 10 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 12)

Row 15: repeat row 9

Row 16: repeat row 8 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 14)

Row 17-21: repeat row 9, at the end of row 20 finish off and weave in ends.

Block11SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 3.75 mm / US size F or size needed to obtain either square 

Block11_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st

Row 1: (WS) Ch51, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (50sts)

Row 2-3: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 4: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * miss 2 htr/hdc (of row 2), 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the next 2 sts (of row 2—theses are stitches 1 and 2) then working IN FRONT of the fpdtr/fptr just made work 1 fpdtr/fptr in each of the sts missed (stitches 3 and 4), then work 1 fpdtr/fptr in the next 2 sts (after the first 2 fpdtr/fptr made—stitches 5 and 6) 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts * repeat from * to * three times, 1 htr/hdc in the last 7sts, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the stitches 1 and 2 (of row 4),  miss the next 2 fpdtr/fptr, 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the stitches 5 and 6 (of row 4), then working BEHIND the sts just made, work 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 4), * 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts repeat from * to *  three times, then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 7 sts, turn.

Row 7: Repeat row 5

Row 8: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * miss 2 fpdtr/fptr, 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 6),  then working IN FRONT of the fpdtr/fptr just made work 1 fpdtr/fptr in stitches 1 and 2, then work 1 fpdtr/fptr in stitches 5 and 6 (after the first 2 fpdtr/fptr made), 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, repeat from * to *  three times, then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 7 sts, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below current row)

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 13: Repeat row 5

Row 14: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 15: Repeat row 5

Row 16: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 17: Repeat row 5

Row 18: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 19: Repeat row 5

Row 20: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Row 22: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 23: Repeat row 5

Row 24: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 25: Repeat row 5

Row 26: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 27: Repeat row 5

Row 28: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 29: Repeat row 5

Row 30: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 31: Repeat row 5

Row 32: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 33: Repeat row 5

Row 34: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 35: Repeat row 5

Row 36: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Note: Measure as you go, if getting closer to size end on row 37 finish off and weave in ends.

Row 37: Repeat row 5

Row 38: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 39: Repeat row 5

Row 40: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Rows 41-43: Repeat row 5; at the end of row 43 finish off and weave in ends.

Block11LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 10 – Cabled Ropes

SSCAL-Block10

Stitch Story CAL Block 10 is a fun block featuring a simple cabled design which gives it a lovely texture – and after this block, it’s just 2 to go!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 10 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 10 is available from the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part10-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Cabled ropes: a tribute to the fisherman’s daily life,   representing the fisherman’s ropes and symbolising a safe and fruitful days work.

Design 10: Cabled Ropes

Hook: 4mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc)
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc)
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc)

Note: The 15cm / 6 inch pattern does differ from the 30cm/12 inch block

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (fptr/fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (bptr/bpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block10SML-SSCAL

Row 1: (WS) Ch27, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, turn (25sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as htr/hdc now and throughout), 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, skip 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then IN FRONT of the FPtr/FPdc just made work 1FPtr/FPdc in each of the skipped sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, skip the next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then IN FRONT of the FPtr/FPdc just made work 1FPtr/FPdc in each of the skipped sts, 1htr/hdc in the last 4 sts, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, * 1BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts (around the FPtr/FPdc of row 2), 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, 1htr/hdc in the last 4 sts, turn.

Row 4-17: repeat row 2 & 3 for pattern until the last row.

Row 18: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end,  finish off and weave in ends.

Block10SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 3.75 mm / US size F or size needed to obtain either square 

Block10_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The 30cm/12 inch pattern does differ from the 15cm / 6 inch block.

Row 1: (WS) Ch 52, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, (50sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as htr/hdc now and throughout the pattern), 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, *skip next 2sts, 1 FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then working in front of the FPtr/FPdc sts you have just made, work 1 FPtr/FPdc in the skipped 2 sts, 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until end, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, *1 BPtr/BPdc around the next 4 sts, 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end, turn.

Note: Measure as you go; end on a row 3 repeat (final row is row 37).

Row 4-36: Repeat rows 2-3 for pattern, turn

Row 37: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block10LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 9 – Fisherman’s Basket

SSCAL-Block9

Okay! Who stole the last two weeks? That seems to have zoomed by! Are you ready for block 9 of the Stitch Story Crochet Along?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 9 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 9 is available at the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part9-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

The variation of the basket weave stitch depicts a fisherman’s basket and represents the hope of a good day.           

Design 9: Fisherman’s Basket

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc)
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc)
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc)

Note: The 15cm / 6 inch pattern does differ from the 30cm/12 inch block

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (fptr/fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (bptr/bpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block9-01-SML-SSCAL18

Row 1: (RS) Ch27, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, turn. (25sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as 1st htr/hdc now and throughout), FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 3 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, htr/hdc in the last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 2 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 3 sts, , BPtr/BPdc in the next 2 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, htr/hdc in the last st, turn.

Rows 4-5: Repeat row 2

Row 6: Repeat row 3

Rows 7-8: Repeat row 2

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10-11: Repeat row 2

Rows 12: Repeat row 3

Rows 13-14: Repeat row 2

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Rows 16-17: Repeat row 2

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch1 and each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block9SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

Block9_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The 30cm/12 inch pattern does differ from the 15cm / 6 inch block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, 1tr/dc in the 4th ch from hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch across until end, turn (50 sts)

Note:  Measure the first row; you want your block to measure 12 inch x 12 inch / 30.5cm x 30.5cm (or your own desired size depending on your first row measurements). 

Row 2-4: Ch3 (counts as 1 tr/dc), *FPtr/FPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts * repeat from * to * in each st along until the beginning ch3, 1tr/dc in the top of turning ch, turn.

Row 5-7: Ch3 (counts as 1tr/dc), * BPtr/BPdc around the post of next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts * repeat from * to * in each st along until the beginning ch3, 1tr/dc in the top of turning ch, turn.

Row 8-37: Repeat rows 2-7 for pattern.

Block9LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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