Our groovyghan crochet along journey is over boo hoo! But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x
This week I thought I’d share some groovyghan facts with you and show you some of the amazing groovyghans made by others.
So first the statistics – in our CAL we have had;
nearly 5,000 people join the KCACO-UK Community Group over on Facebook – that’s potentially a lot of groovyghans!! & that’s not counting everyone else that has joined in the crochet-along following on the blog.
people globally join in the CAL (which has been so exciting) including folks from United Kingdom, Ireland, USA, Canada, Luxembourg, Australia, Sweden, France, Israel, South Africa, Norway, Denmark, Mexico, Germany, Holland, New Zealand, Uruguay and Greece (I may have missed some – sorry if I have)!!!
worked through 17 new patterns – way to go everyone that had never read a pattern before!
learnt to be crochet bi-lingual by following both UK and US crochet terminology – just think how useful that will be in the future!
used a crochet chart (even if my drawings were a bit wobbly at times!)
used several techniques including granny squares, popcorn stitches & ripples to name a few – some seriously impressive skills to be proud of!
I’m sending a virtual pat on the back and well done cheer to everyone that finished up their groovyghan – thank you so much for crocheting along with me.
And now I want to share some of the amazing finished Groovyghan’s that I have had the kind permission of the owners to show photos of! All the colourways that were shared with me for this post were so fantastic and pretty but if I added them all it would be a really long blog post so I have selected a few that are different for inspiration purposes. So without further ado here are some unbelievably gorgeous Groovyghans to feast your eyes on!
Loving the bright colours of this groovyghan made by Kaffy Packer
Perfect purples made by Cara Jane Brameld
Love this neutral pallet made by Holly Volkman
The addition of the black makes the colours pop! Made by Tracey Ferguson
Pink to make the girls wink by Tess Jardine Clements
Wonderful rainbow by Shona Hill
Pretty Pastels by Sandie Reader
Such vibrant colours by Susan Hill
Real stashbusting beauty by Phillipa Shaw
Crochet me a rainbow by Suzy Davis
Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and has shared their beautiful work with me! I loved seeing your finished Groovyghans 💕
Look out for details of our next crochet along in December (starting in January 2017).
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
So after weaving in a gazillion ends we have reached the grand finale of the 2016 Keep Calm and Crochet On UK “Everything is Cool and Groovyghan” CAL!!!
Don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedulehereand I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x
This project has been most definitely the most challenging thing I have ever designed and I am really pleased how it turned out in the end – and even more appreciative of the fact that so many of you joined in the CAL adding your own groovy vibes!
My groovyghan plan started in 2015 and looked a little something like this – which I don’t think ended up so different from the actual design…perhaps a few tweaks here and there but all to make it better in the end.
This is where I say a huge, huge thank you to my lovely testers (Kimberlie, Jenn, Angela, Anita & Peggy x) who helped make it possible for this diagram to became the pattern we all crocheted! I also want to thank the fabulous admins (Kimberlie, Michelle, Jenn & Kat x) of the Facebook group for their continued support throughout the CAL.
And now… the moment we’ve all been waiting for…the BIG REVEAL!
Tah-Dah!!! My finished blue lagoon Groovyghan (made for my wonderful husband who supports me with my hooks and yarn always x).
Just loving the cool blue / teals of my finished blanket!
All done!!
Trying to get the full blanket shot – never easy!
A little person wanted to be part of my photo shoot!
Nothing better than seeing your blanket in use!
It seems like such a short time ago that we started this groovy journey and I’m a little sad that it’s at an end – but looking forward to new CAL plans for 2017 so watch this space for details. There’s also some exciting patterns coming up that you won’t want to miss out on!
Thank you all again, for crocheting-a-long with me this year! I can’t wait to see your fabulous finished groovyghans; some of which, with kind permission, I’ll be sharing next week.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
WOW, we’ve made it!! Can you believe we are now on the border?!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelryclick here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be foundhereand you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 forFacebook, Twitter, PinterestandInstagramif you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
Before you can start your border all previous sections of the groovyghan must be joined together (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details). The border is worked directly onto the edges of your joined pieces, working all the way around all edges, to finish off your groovyghan.
Pattern:
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
P = picot
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Picot (P): Not all picot stitches are created the same, for this border; create three chain stitches from the point in your row where you want to add the picot stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through the top of the previous tr/dc, this is one picot stitch.
Picot Stitch Diagram
Pattern Guidance:
Rnd 1:To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 3 sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining YARN A to the corner sp and working 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.
If you have too many stitches this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed. In the corners I worked [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc].
Pattern:
Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * miss 3 sts, work 1 dc/sc in-between the sts of the previous rnd, ch 3 * repeat from * to * in each st around working [dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc] in each corner), sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends.
Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp and in each ch 3 sp along make 3 tr/dc, *in the next corner ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Rnd 4:Repeat rnd 2
Rnd 5:Repeat rnd 3
Rnd 6:Repeat rnd 2, but do not finish off, sl st to the nearest corner; continue to work the final edging in the same colour.
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [1 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp work 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc and in each ch 3 sp along * in the next corner ch 3 sp work [2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc] * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it!
Congratulations your Groovyghan is finished!
Look out for the big reveal of my groovyghan on 7 September! Don’t forget to link me photos of your finished groovyghans I’d love to see them!
Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
And that’s it! Part 16 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew
It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!
I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!
Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.
Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details)
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
And that’s it! Part 15 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.
It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet
Stitch Guidance:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)
Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.
Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Finishing:Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)
Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.
Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Finishing:Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
And that’s it! Part 14 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.
It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp= space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
PC= Popcorn
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
And that’s it! Part 13 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.
Oooo time for part 12 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Cats-Claw-Stripes-Hebrew
Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:
During the stylish 1960’s and 70’s it was very fashionable and perfectly legal in the UK to keep exotic animals as household pets, these ranged from leopards, pumas and panthers! However in 1976 the UK Government introduced the Dangerous Wild Animals Act to protect the public and ensure the animals we’re looked after properly.
When I was younger I used to live pretty much next to Cannock Chase where there was a rumour of a panther at large – my brother and I had much fun scaring each other with tales of the beast roaming the ancient woodlands looking for juicy children to eat! So this weeks section of the groovyghan is inspired by the claws of these big cats!
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Row width = 50 inches / 127 cm
Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
FPttr / FPdtr = UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet
BPttr / BPdtr = UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet
Stitch Guidance:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet(FPttr / FPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.
UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet(BPttr / BPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.
Pattern:
Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)
Row 2:Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last tr/dc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (103 tr/dc / 64 BPttr/BPdtr)
Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 10: Attach YARN E in the top of the last st made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr).
Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN E and weave in ends (167 sts)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
COMING SOON!
Apologies for not having the chart ready yet – you’ll have to blame the baby ;o)
Blocking:
As Part 12 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previousCAL postfor more guidance.
Joining:
You can now join part 12 directly to parts 8-10 (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial: Cats Claw Stripes
Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)
Row 2:Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last htr/hdc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (103 tr/dc / 64 BPttr/BPdtr)
Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)
Row 10: Attach YARN E in the top of the last st made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr).
Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)
And that’s it! Part 12 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 13 to be released on 29 June 2016.
For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun. You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern Guidance:
Surface crochet: Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.
Pattern:
I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,
ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
And that’s it! Part 11 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.
Well here we are at part 10, released a little earlier than scheduled (I didn’t think you would mind) as I have a family matter I have to deal with this week which meant I couldn’t bank on getting this blog post out to the world on Wednesday.
The exciting thing about part 10 is that means you’ve pretty much completed over half of the finished blanket. I do hope you are enjoying the crochet journey so far!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
This weeks CAL square is not the grooviest of all the pieces we are going to make but it’s an integral part of bringing the whole design together. Inspired by go-go dancers of the 1960’s this block uses a standard stitch…but with a twist! The overall effect is a lightly textured fabric with a subtle zig-zag effect that is very pleasing!
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
HBhtr/HBhdc = Herringbone UK half treble / Herringbone US half double crochet
Stitch Guidance:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
HerringboneHalf Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc): Your stitch should slant to the left; when worked in rows it creates a herringbone effect. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
The ch 1 after a turn does not count as a st
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)
Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)
Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6
Finishing:Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your blocks as per the CAL schematic (details below) for PART 10 by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; I chose to add my stripes vertically but choose the way you prefer for your blanket.
Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook),
yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)
Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)
Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)
Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6
Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
And that’s it! Part 10 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 11 to be released on 1st June 2016.
