Free Crochet Pattern | Sherbet Star Granny Square

The lovely people over at Anchor Yarns were very kind enough recently to send me out some of their new Baby Pure Cotton yarn to play with.

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton is made from 100 % cotton, natural, combed and not mercerised (so matte not shiny) and it’s extremely soft on the hands to work with. It’s available in 24 colours which range from a soft muted powdered look or your more traditional pastel shades.

I’d say it’s totally suitable for modern fashion garments, home decor projects and amigurumi as well as quick and easy projects for baby. And it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant (love this) to be entirely safe for a new-born.

So I had a play with the yarn, and as it’s Granny Square Day tomorrow, it seemed only appropriate that I create a new free pattern for you all to enjoy! Allow me to introduce to you the Sherbet Star Granny Square.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. A collection of these squares put together would look great as a cushion or blanket and you can be as adventurous as you like with your colours! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

The Sherbert Star Granny Square pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 2 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Sherbet Star Granny Square

MATERIALS

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2 (Sport / Baby)

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton 4ply used in photographs.

· YARN A       Raspberry (Shade: 00430)      

· YARN B         Pastel Pink (Shade: 00431)

· YARN C         Pastel Yellow (Shade: 00106)

· YARN D         Beige (Shade: 00404)      

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3 mm (US size D/3)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble 3 together / US double crochet 3 together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Treble 4 together / US double crochet 4 together (tr/dc4tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, * pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop * repeat from * to * three times, yarn over pull through all five loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

The Pattern works best using four colours per square; three inner colours and an outside joining colour. Use the same colour as rnd 4 for rnd 6 to bring the colours of your squares together.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch8, sl st to form a ring; 4ch, 23dtr/tr into the ring, sl st top of the beginning 4ch to join. 24sts

Rnd 2: Ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, * ch4, miss st, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * until last ch4, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 3: With YARN B; Sl st to any ch4 loop, ch3, tr/dc3tog in same ch4-sp (counts as first tr/dc4tog), ch4, * tr/dc4tog in the next ch4-sp, ch4 * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 4: With YARN C; Sl st to the top of any tr/dc4tog of rnd 3; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 5: With YARN D; Sl st to any ch3-sp of rnd 4; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3tr/dc in the next four spaces (between htr/hdc’s of rnd 4), [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc in the next four spaces, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 6: With YARN C; Sl st to any missed st of rnd 1, * ch4, sl st to the top of the tr/dc4tog of rnd 3,  ch4, miss  next empty st of rnd 1, 1dc/sc in the next st *  repeat from * to * in each st around until end.  Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Sherbet Star Granny Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #SHERBERTSTARGRANNY or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Encompass Me Afghan Block

When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.

Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!

Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.

The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.

There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!

And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.

The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Encompass Me 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Schjeepjes Stonewashed XL used in photographs.

  • 20g / 30m  Moon Stone (Shade  841)            YARN A
  • 18g / 27m Green Jade (Shade 846)                YARN B
  • 43g / 65m Yellow Jasper (Shade 849)            YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • BPtr/BPdc       UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • US Double Crochet 3 together / US Double Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over,   insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.

The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).

Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat  […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)

Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat  […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Encompass Me Afghan Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Allcrochetpatterns.net | Granny Square Design Contest

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The granny square is one of the most iconic designs in crochet and I adore that it can be interpreted in unlimited ways!  If you’ve seen my groovyghan and various other designs then you’ll already know I’m a big fan of all things ‘granny square’ and love creating new fun designs.  So when I saw that Allcrochetpatterns.net was holding a granny square design contest I knew I had to give it a go to design something new. 

I’m really loving Scheepjes Catona Yarn at the moment and am amassing quite a colour selection so I picked out some lovely bright rainbow colours and after a bit of yarn play came up with the Floral Illusion Granny Square. 

Floral-Illusion-1+Text

And the story behind the name…well the flower part seemed to develop quite organically as I started playing with the yarn – so I just went with it. The illusion part came as I noticed when I was photographing the square that the centre of the block had a kind of 3-D hologram that was a really cool effect.

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And now the voting to the competition is OPEN! If you happen to like my little designs could you please spare me a few moments I hope you might vote for the Floral Illusions block. Your vote counts, and that’s why there’s a special Voters Prize! By voting you will be entered in the raffle to win 100 Epic yarn balls by Yarn and Colors! 

HOW TO VOTE:

  • Go to the voting page on Allcrochetpatterns.net
  • Click the heart-button of TEN of your granny squares
  • Enter your name and email address in the pop-up screen to submit your vote.
  • Please note: multiple votings by one person will be removed.

Voting will take place from April 16 till April 23 and the three designs with the highest amount of votes will be announced the winners of this contest and a selection of participants will be contacted to contribute to a book project, gathering 100 granny square designs.

There are seriously so many amazing designs from inventive designers and I’ve voted for my favourites – good luck to all designers taking part!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

 

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Moroccan Window | Nuts About Squares CAL

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So we are now up to week 10 on the Nuts About Squares CAL and I’m delighted that my Moroccan Window block (originally designed for my 2015 CAL) has been featured alongside ‘Sweet and Fair‘ by the wonderfully talented designer Julie Yeager (I love her block designs!).

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Don’t worry if this is the first time you are hearing about the CAL you can find all the information about it HERE on the It’s All in A Nutshell website. 

Once again the very talented Esther has created an accompanying step-by-step video showing how to crochet my square. 

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And once again I’m in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…

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And the Moroccan Window block has now also been translated into Dutch too! The update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it.  If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares and #kcacouk  #moroccanwindow too – can’t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Bavarian Beauty | Nuts About Squares CAL

You may remember me telling you about the Nuts About Squares CAL which started on 31 March.  Don’t worry though if you missed it there’s still plenty of time to catch up – the Information Post for the CAL can be found HERE

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I’m very excited to announce that my Bavarian Beauty Block is Part 6 of the CAL.  You may remember I designed this pattern for my 2015 CAL. I did add some photo tutorials to the pattern originally, to help make up the block, but Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell has now also created a fabulous instructional video (in US terms) to accompany the block. 

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Along with the video for my block you can find a playlist of all the video tutorials for the CAL as they are released HERE.

I’m just in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…

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I’m also very excited that I have now been translated into Dutch for the first time (Goedenavond alle Nederlandse haaksters!), the update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it.  If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares and #kcacouk  #bavarianbeauty too – can’t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Nuts About Squares CAL by It’s All in A Nutshell

Oooo you know me! I’m a sucker for a good blanket and there is nothing like a crochet-along for being able to make something bigger than perhaps you would usually make for you or someone special. That’s why I’m really excited to tell you about the new crochet-along, Nuts about Squares, by Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell to make the beautiful afghan (pictured below).  

Photo: Hans Mossel

If you are not familiar with It’s All in A Nutshell you NEED to go and check out her blog and her Youtube channel. Not only does she have many free patterns of her own (available in English and Dutch) but she has also has made several videos,with permission, of well known crochet-along patterns like Sophie’s Universe by Dedri Uys or Mandala Madness by Helen Shrimpton.

So back to the CAL! Myself and eleven other crochet designers have contributed block designs to Esther’s very first CAL. I was very excited to be part of something with so many other fabulous designers – so big thanks to Esther for thinking of me! ❤︎  Contributing designers include Dedri Uys, Helen Shrimpton, Polly Plum, Sigrun Hugoey, Melissa GreenJulie Yeager, Margaret MacInnis, Susan Stevens/Mellie Blossom, Aurora Suominen, and Tatsiana Kupryianchyk.

For this crochet-along Esther has collaborated with Scheepjes Yarn to create three stunning colourway packs, with the theme of either Earth, Sea and Sky, which are available from Wool Warehouse, Deramores and Caro’s Atelier (NL).

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The CAL will last 15 weeks and starts March 31, 2017 so make sure you hop on over and subscribe to the It’s All in a Nutshell blog so you don’t miss any of the details. 

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those.  I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that! 

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

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Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

02+text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part16.png

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT04

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

01+text.jpg

And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

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It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end! 

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can! 

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg:  Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.  

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design.   I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01+text.jpg

Written Pattern:

skill2

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

02.jpg

Chart:

Chart+Text.jpg

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part15.png

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

Group-Banner

It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Banner-14

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

01+logo

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Chart

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part14

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT02.jpg

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

TUT03.jpg

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT04.jpg

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

TUT05.jpg

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02+Logo.jpg

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13

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It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Banner

Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • sp= space
  • sl st= slip stitch
  • ch(s)= chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC= Popcorn
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

01+Text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

DSC09037.JPG

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part13.png

Photo Tutorial:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT07.jpg

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT08.jpg

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.