January SALES!!ūüéČ


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The start of the new year traditionally brings with it all the January sales so of course I need to let you know about mine! Why not bag yourself some amazing bargains with my special offer in my Ravelry store which will hopefully start off¬†YOUR 2017 in a good way…

Hopefully there is¬†something for everyone’s taste; whether you like hooking amigurumi, blankets, pillows, hats, scarves, shawls, afghan squares or bags – I’ve got over 50 patterns you can choose from…

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So what’s the special offer I hear you cry? Well I’m offering¬†40% discount from NOW until Wednesday 4 January 2017 only on Ravelry, no coupon code is required, so quick grab yourself a bargain!

Happy Hooking & until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16


Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. ¬†I¬†think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!¬†

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03+text

Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn:¬†Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required:¬†Each square roughly uses up 33¬†yds (30 m / 10¬†g) / Total squares 330¬†yds (300 m / 100¬†g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†6 tr/dc sts or¬†2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†5 x 5¬†inches / 12.7¬†x 12.7¬†cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)¬†= stitch(es)
  • sp(s)¬†= space(s)
  • sl st¬†= slip stitch
  • ch(s)¬†= chain(s)
  • tr/dc¬†¬†= UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ]¬†= work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):¬†Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note:¬†Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

02+text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp Р17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part16.png

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note:¬†Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT04

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

01+text.jpg

And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don‚Äôt forget to stay tuned for Part 17 –¬†THE BORDER¬†to be released on 24 August¬†2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15


Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Group-Banner

It’s time¬†for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!¬†

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!¬†

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg:  Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever¬†which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’. ¬†

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a¬†big fan of granny square I¬†love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. ¬† I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01+text.jpg

Written Pattern:

skill2

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn:¬†Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required:¬†Each square roughly uses up 33¬†yds (30 m / 10¬†g) / Total squares 330¬†yds (300 m / 100¬†g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†6 tr/dc sts or¬†2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†5 x 5¬†inches / 12.7¬†x 12.7¬†cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)¬†= stitch(es)
  • sp(s)¬†= space(s)
  • sl st¬†= slip stitch
  • ch(s)¬†= chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc¬†¬†= UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ]¬†= work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): ¬†Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):¬†Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

02.jpg

Chart:

Chart+Text.jpg

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your pieces¬†steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces¬†so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.¬†

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part15.png

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14


Group-Banner

It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks!¬†If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL¬†the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on¬†Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern¬†click¬†here. ¬†There is a¬†Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here¬†and you¬†can use the hashtag¬†#kcacoukcal2016 for¬†Facebook,¬†Twitter, Pinterest¬†and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media. ¬†

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Banner-14

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn:¬†Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required:¬†Each panel¬†roughly uses up ¬†125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†6 tr/dc sts¬†= 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block¬†size using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†10 x 10¬†inches /25.4¬†x 25.4¬†cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)¬†= stitch(es)
  • sp¬†= space
  • sl st¬†= slip stitch
  • ch(s)¬†= chain¬†¬†
  • FDC/FSC =¬†Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet¬†(FDC/FSC): ¬†Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull¬†up a loop, yarn over, pull¬†through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull¬†through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single¬†crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. ¬†For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): ¬†Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1:¬†I used multiple¬†colours for this¬†block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 Р37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing:¬†Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33¬†times (so you have 33 sts on each ‚Äėturned‚Äô end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

01+logo

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Chart

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too РI personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your pieces¬†steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces¬†so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.¬†

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part14

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

  • Note 1:¬†I used multiple¬†colours for this¬†block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT02.jpg

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

TUT03.jpg

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT04.jpg

Row 5 Р37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

TUT05.jpg

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing:¬†Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33¬†times (so you have 33 sts on each ‚Äėturned‚Äô end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02+Logo.jpg

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13


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It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time¬†for part 13 of our groovyghan!¬†If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL¬†the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on¬†Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern¬†click¬†here. ¬†There is a¬†Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here¬†and you¬†can use the hashtag¬†#kcacoukcal2016 for¬†Facebook,¬†Twitter, Pinterest¬†and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media. ¬†

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Banner

Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn:¬†Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required:¬†Each panel¬†roughly uses up ¬†125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†6 tr/dc sts¬†= 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block¬†size using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†10 x 10¬†inches /25.4¬†x 25.4¬†cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • sp= space
  • sl st= slip stitch
  • ch(s)= chain¬†¬†
  • dc/sc =¬†UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc¬†= UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC= Popcorn
  • [ ] =¬†work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): ¬†Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):¬†Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC):¬†Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1:¬†I used multiple¬†colours for this¬†block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don‚Äôt work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don‚Äôt worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row. ¬†

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

01+Text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

DSC09037.JPG

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too РI personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your pieces¬†steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces¬†so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.¬†

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part13.png

Photo Tutorial:

  • Note 1:¬†I used multiple¬†colours for this¬†block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don‚Äôt work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don‚Äôt worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row. ¬†

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT07.jpg

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT08.jpg

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 8


Group-Banner

Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8¬†of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?¬†

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Bubble-Gum-Pop-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square 

This weeks CAL square is inspired by the¬†Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy! ¬†So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter¬†has been loving dancing round to it! ¬†

With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL.  As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn: Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel¬†roughly uses up ¬†125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†6 tr/dc sts¬†= 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel¬†size using Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3:¬†10 x 10¬†inches /25.4¬†x 25.4¬†cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain ¬†
  • dc/sc =¬†UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc¬† = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): ¬†Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC):¬†Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1:¬†Four colours used for this¬†block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART8

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too РI personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your pieces¬†steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces¬†so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.¬†

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part8

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT07

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT09

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8¬†completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9¬†to be released on¬†4th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 7


Group-Banner

Time for part 7 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Part 7: Half and Half Granny Square:

The British¬†halfpenny (¬Ĺp) coin was introduced in February 1971 and although I was born in the late 70’s I still remember going to the local corner shop for ¬Ĺ penny chews as a youngster! ¬†To celebrate all half things part 7 is a half and half twist on¬†the classic granny square. ¬†

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

02-Banner

Written Pattern:

skill3

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn: Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33¬†yds (30 m / 10¬†g) / Total squares 330¬†yds (300 m / 100¬†g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or¬†2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†5 x 5¬†inches / 12.7¬†x 12.7¬†cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc¬† = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
  • Post = refers to either the tr/dc or ch 4 on the end of each rnd (used in the joining as you go section only).

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note:¬†The blocks are made up from two half granny squares (triangles), you can either make 20 triangles and join together to make 10 half and half blocks OR you can join each triangle half as you go, details below.
  • Note 2: The Ch 4 at the beginning of each round counts as 1 tr/dc + ch 1
  • Note 3:¬†Once you have completed each square I would suggest you¬†weave in your¬†ends and join your triangles together so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do¬†at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT+logo

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

Apologies in advance for my rather wonky looking square! For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART7.jpg

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 7 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking.jpg

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 7 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp Р17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part7

Photo Tutorial:

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-01

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-02

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-03

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-05

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT+logo

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-06

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-07

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-08

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

04

And that’s it! Part 7 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 8 to be released on 20th April 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 5


Group-Banner

Time for part 5 of the Groovyghan CAL, hope you are enjoying it so far! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-par5-hebrew

Part 5: Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square 

I love how little squares look when joined up together but I haven’t got the perseverance to make a whole blanket out of wee blocks so I thought I’d incorporate just a few into this design instead. ¬†Named and inspired by the famous 1960’s pop art artist Roy Lichtenstein¬†we are going to use¬†dots and solid bold colours to¬†add interest to our finished Groovyghan.

These little squares are great stash-busters and great little projects to take out and about to then join together later! A simple little design with a subtle pattern which looks great either made in one colour or joined together in multiple colours.

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03

Written Pattern:

skill2

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

Notes:

  • Hook:¬†UK 4¬†mm / US Size¬†G
  • Yarn: Double Knit¬†/ 8¬†ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 16¬†yds (15 m / 5¬†g) / Total squares 128¬†yds (120 m / 80¬†g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or¬†2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3:¬†2.5 x 2.5 inches / 6.4¬†x 6.4¬†cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc¬† = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Working in the back loop:¬†When working in the BLO I like to work through both the back loop and the 3rd loop; it makes the stitch more sturdy and the subtle texture on the square neater.BLO
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1:¬†Once you have completed each square I would suggest you¬†weave in your¬†ends so that you¬†don’t have a major sewing job to do¬†at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1:¬†Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 1¬†(doesn’t count as a st), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc¬†to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Note: All stitches on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc), then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 3], *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART5

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

I blocked my finished panels once I had joined them together;

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips¬†to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2:¬†Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally¬†you¬†should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your squares together into two sets of 2 x 4 panels; eight squares in total on each panel (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through each square and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp Р9 sts in total joined.

02

Using the same joining methods as the rest of the pieces you can now join all of your pieces together ready for Part 6!

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part5

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. ¬† If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links: ¬†

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

The finished panel sizes (2 x eight block panels) in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 10 inches /12.7 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4).  

Blocking

Photo Tutorial:

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

1. Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring

TUT-01

2.¬†ch 1¬†(doesn’t count as a st),

TUT-02

3.  then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

TUT-03

 4. Note: All stitches  on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc),

TUT-04

5. then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in to the same st as the beginning ch 3],

TUT-05

6. *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts,

TUT-06

7. [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next *

TUT-07

8. repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

04

And that’s it! Part 5¬†completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 6¬†to be released on¬†23rd March 2016.

Clover Amour 4mm/G Hook & Pattern Giveaway


So I think it’s no¬†secret that my favourite hooks to use EVER are Clover Amour.¬† If you don’t know the Amour line of hooks, they are a range of hooks that are¬†covered in soft elastomer rubber and ergonomically shaped so that¬†they fit oh so¬†nicely into your hand. I’ve tried many hooks in my time but these are the ones I definitely prefer!¬†I have nearly all the sizes now¬†(apart from the new extra large sizes, 8mm, 9mm & 10mm,¬†which¬†are on my wish list) but my¬†go to hook is pretty much my¬†4mm ¬†/ US size G – plus that particular size¬†is purple so what’s not to love!

DSC04150

So I thought, continuing with my little celebrations, that I would give YOU the chance to win A BRAND NEW 4mm / US Size G Clover Amour Hook of your very own!  Plus offer you a couple of my patterns which use a 4mm hook to accompany it.  How about that?

All you have to do is leave me a comment below to¬†tell me how many other hooks you think I have in this jar and let me know which of my 4mm hook patterns you’d like to go with it and who you will be making it for.¬†

Hooks

One winner, who guesses nearest the correct amount of hooks, will be chosen at random on 13 June at 7.30pm (GMT).  This competition is open WORLDWIDE!

Good Luck Everyone!

Happily Hooked Magazine and Me


Happily Hooked Magazine (HHM) is a monthly on-line US crochet magazine for all crochet enthusiasts!  Started in April 2014 this monthly magazine features a little something for everyone that loves crochet!  

Issue 13 hits the e-newstands TODAY (and every subsequent 15th of the month) and guess who has a pattern included? It’s meeeeee!!! I am really thrilled to be part of the magazine with my new Beaded Make-Up Bag.¬†¬†

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There are some really great designers that contribute to the magazine and some stunning crochet projects so you really do need to check it out! You can view the HHM web version on any device like your phone or computer or download it on to an iPad (more apps for other devices coming soon) or download as a PDF if you want to print it out.

If you are on Facebook make sure to give their page a like as they always include offers for the magazine and sales from designers on their¬†Facebook page.¬†¬† Although the¬†magazine¬†is written in US crochet terminology its easy to convert using their helpful crochet conversion chart;¬†I would say if you love crochet, don’t let that stop you from getting your hands on some fab crochet patterns! The main thing¬†to remember is that the US¬†double crochet is our treble crochet and our double crochet is the¬†US¬†single crochet!

You can¬†get¬†6 issues for just 99 cents which is¬†about 67p and it comes with a no quibble 90 day risk free¬†guarantee,¬†don’t like it, then you don’t have to have it! And as a special offer for¬†anyone that subscribes this month you will¬†receive¬†a FREE pattern of your choice from ME¬†– the code for the free pattern will be in the Subscribers Area on the HHM website.¬†