The Enchanted Wood: Part 6 – Mushrooms

How are you all doing? Are you ready for Part 6 of the CAL?

I’ve so enjoyed watching the pinecones develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Collage of KCACOUKCAL Part 5 works in progress made by others

So let’s get down to Part 6 then shall we, this week we are going to be adding some mushrooms to our Enchanted Wood.

I always thing that mushrooms are a fascinating and diverse feature of woodlands, many species can be spotted all year round and there are hundreds of different types. Fungi are the main decomposers the woods breaking down dead plants,  basically it feeds itself by digesting organic matter which it then returns as nutrients to the soil. Clever little things, so I thought they needed a place in our blanket.

Inspirational shot of woodland mushrooms for Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Image of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23 hanging between two trees in a woodland scene

The Enchanted Wood: Part 6 – Mushrooms

Yarn: 160g / 400m / 437yds or 2 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Celery (7155) – YARN H or alternatively 2 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Pistachio (1822) – YARN F

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 6 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 84cm (33”) wide x 104cm (40.9”) long
  • In Special DK: 85.5cm (33.5”) wide x 103.5cm (40.5”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Seven Treble Cluster (7trCl): Work 7 trebles into one stitch.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this  pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through  last 2 loops on hook to close.   Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 6

Schematic of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 6

You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
  • We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
  • The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
  • You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
  • If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).

Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1tr in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1tr in the corner of Part 4, BPtr in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1tr in the      corner of Part 4, 2tr around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2tr around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 tr / 123 BPtr / 185 sts

Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 139 tr / 46 x ch1-sps

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in each st across, turn. 185 tr

Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1tr in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the

next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 2sts. 70 tr / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next tr] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7trCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next tr, 1dc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7trCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 dc

Row 6: Ch6 (counts as tr + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre tr of the 7trCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1htr in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 dc in the top centre of the 7trCl, miss 3sts, 1tr in the last st, turn. 2tr / 22 htr / 23 dc / 46 x ch3-sps

Row 7: Ch3, [ 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next htr ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next dc, 3tr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the last st, turn. 185 tr

Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7

Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23 in UK Terms

Pattern in US Terms:

Image of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23 draped over a branch in a woodland scene.

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Seven Double Crochet Cluster (7dcCl): Work 7 double crochet into one stitch.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this  pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) three more times (5 times total – 11 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 10 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through  last 2 loops on hook to close.   Puff stitches will show on the other side of your work when made.
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 6

Schematic of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 6

You will build part 6 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • · With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 5, then across part 4, then on the row ends of part 5 again.
  • · We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 5.
  • · The ch3 counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • · The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
  • · You will not count the sl st’s of row 5 in your stitch count when instructed to miss sts.
  • · If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).

Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN H around the post of the last st of Part 5; ch3, 1dc in the same st,[ miss st at end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] evenly fourteen times on Part 3, 1dc in the corner of Part 4, BPdc in the next 123sts of Part 4, 1dc in the      corner of Part 4, 2dc around the post of the next 2sts [miss st at the end of the next row, 2dc around the post of the next st], repeat { … ] evenly twelve times more on the row ends of Part 5, turn. 62 dc / 123 BPdc / 185 sts

Close up of Parts 5 and Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23

Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts] repeat { … ] across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 139 dc / 46 x ch1-sps

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in each st across, turn. 185 dc

Row 4 (WS) : Ch3, 1dc in the next st, [ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next 3sts ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, ch2, miss 2sts, PF in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts. 70 dc / 46 x ch2-sps / 23 PF

Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in the next st, sl st in the next st, [miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, ch4, miss next st, sl st in the top of the next dc] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 2 ch, 7dcCl in the top of the next PF st, miss 2 ch, sl st in the top of the next dc, 1sc in the last st, turn. 23 x 7dcCl / 22 x ch4-sps / 2 sc

Row 6: Ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), [ miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre dc of the 7dcCl, ch3, miss 3sts, 1hdc in the ch4-sp, ch3 ] repeat from { … ] across another twenty-one times, miss 3sts, 1 sc in the top centre of the 7dcCl, miss 3sts, 1dc in the last st, turn. 2dc / 22 hdc / 23 sc / 46 x ch3-sps

Row 7: Ch3, [ 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next hdc ] repeat { … ] across another twenty-one times, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next sc, 3dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the last st, turn. 185 dc

Rows 8 – 13: Repeat rows 2 – 7

Rows 14—15: Repeat rows 2 – 3. 185 sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Reattach YARN H to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 6 of the KCACOUKCAL23 in US Terms

And that’s it! Part 6 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your mushrooms sprout from Parts 4 and 5!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!

Inspirational shot of a large tree in the middle of a woodland

This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.

As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree. The central motif is shown pinned to a tree trunk in a wood.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 1 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
  • In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Row 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 7 of the KCACOUKCAL23 Chart

Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 9 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn


Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 11 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 13 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 15 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 17 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.      

Rows 18-23 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

Row 25 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

Full crochet chart for 'The Tree' part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts  (1htr, ch3, 1htr)  in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts,  (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts,  (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23; the central crochet motif of a tree is pictured lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,

· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows    below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 5:            

Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows             below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.         

Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.

Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc)  in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along Planning

With about a month before The Enchanted Wood CAL begins I thought I’d share with you some more information so you can get planning; including yarn amounts and the colours that were used on both of the blankets.

I did mention some of the details in my first announcement post about the CAL (here) but I’ve got some more of the information I know you’ve been waiting for in this post. So let’s talk yarn!

Lifestyle shot of a the Enchanted Wood blanket on a chair. The Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Crochet along for 2023, in the Stylecraft Special DK Version.
The Enchanted Wood KCACOUKCAL23 – Stylecraft Special DK Version

Yarn Colours and Amounts

You will need at least 1500 / 1600g / 4425m / 4830yds for this CAL and I would suggest it works best in 8 – 10 different colours.

I mentioned before that I used Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo. + Cotton DK for my blanket which is lovely yarn to use. I used approximately the following colours in the following amounts:

Kits for both colourways have been put together by Black Sheep Wools:

Stylecraft Naturals; 60% Bamboo, 40% CottonBallsGramsMetresYds
Part 1Ecru (7128)1100250273
Part 2Seafoam (7143)1100250273
Part 3Bluestone (Shade 7164)1100250273
Part 4Natural (Shade 7146)1100250273
Pumice (Shade 7154)1100250273
Part 5Cameo (Shade 7166)1100250273
Nutmeg (Shade 7147)1100250273
Part 6Celery (Shade 7155)2200500546
Part 7Thyme (Shade 7156)2200500546
Part 8Spring Green (Shade 7126)550012001365
TOTALS16160040004368
Image of a lot of Stylecraft Naturals yarn, with one of the balls held up close to camera.

Then my lovely mum created her version of the blanket in Stylecraft Special DK, she used the following colours in the following amounts (though again in some colours you may have little bits left over):

Stylecraft Special DK ColoursBallsGramsMetresYds
Part 1Cream (Shade 1005)1100295322
Part 2Parchment (Shade 1218)1100295322
Part 3Mocha (Shade 1064)1100295322
Part 4Camel (Shade 1420)1100295322
Part 5Saffron (Shade 1081)2200590644
Part 6Pistachio (Shade 1822)2200590644
Part 7Meadow (Shade 1065)2200590644
Part 8Sage (Shade 1725)550014751610
TOTALS15150044254830

Prices are £69.99 for Stylecraft Natural Bamboo and Cotton (16 x 100g in total) and £29.99 (15 x 100g in total) for Stylecraft Special DK. Black Sheep Wools ship from the UK to Australia, Canada, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand, South Korea and USA, they also offer a click and collect for those who are very local (WA3). 

Hook Size:

I used a 3.5mm (US size E/4). If you were on the look out for a simple aluminium crochet hook (the kind I learnt to crochet with) then I have some in my Yarnybobs store or I also have other hooks and useful crochet tools linked in my Amazon Store.

Finished Blanket Size:

Both blankets finished up at roughly the same size when finished and measure Both blankets finished up at roughly the same size when finished and measure 122cm (48”) wide x 137cm (54”) long. The schematic for the blanket can be seen below:

Image of a the Enchanted Wood blanket schematic for the Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Crochet along for 2023.

Skill Level:

I would suggest that this pattern is rated as easy / intermediate. There are some sections that require a bit more concentration to them, but I’ve added both the written pattern and charts which will hopefully help.

CAL Accessories:

And don’t forget those all important CAL accessories and tools for making your blanket making:

Digital Pattern:

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms.

Shortly after the CAL has finished the PDF will also be added to my Etsy and LoveCrafts stores also.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

If you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters there of all experiences and it’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have. You can of course always contact me too here on the blog.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Ooo I’m excited! We can get our hooks stuck into part 1 on Friday 20 January – so save the date!!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Come with us to The Enchanted Wood | CAL 2023

Oh my word, you wouldn’t even believe how excited I am to finally announce that a bright and beautiful new crochet-along (CAL) is on the way for 2023!!

Join me in making an enchanted style blanket with a woodland-inspired theme. The Enchanted Wood throw is a versatile piece featuring an intricate collection of textured stitches intertwined together.

Bring the great outdoors indoors using a carefully curated palette of colours and stitches in a project that has plenty of interest as each section emerges – with no sewing together!

Believe it or not I actually started working on the design for this pattern not long after we finished with our 2021 CAL; Filet Fantastic. So for over a year this pattern has been bubbling away in the background getting crafted and honed until it was really to share with you lovely folks.

Everyone seemed to really enjoy the no-sew building block construction (I used in Filet Fantastic) so I decided to utilise that method again for the latest CAL blanket. Whilst it is of similar construction this year’s CAL is focused on texture to produce something that you truly just want to keep running your hands over!

This year’s particular theme came from two places; my favourite walking spots in the woods and one of my favourite Enid Blyton books as a child”

Right then, are you sitting comfortably? Then I shall begin with some of the specifics for this years design.

CAL Specifics

The Enchanted Wood CAL will be released in 8 parts which will be available for free here on the Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Blog. The CAL will start with Part 1 on Friday 20 January 2023 and runs for 8 weeks, each Friday, ending on Friday 10 March 2023.

The landing page for the CAL is available from the CALS AND MALS drop down at the top of the page (here), where I will link all the details in one place.

The Enchanted Wood KCACOUKCAL23 – Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo and Cotton

Yarn Amounts and Kits

  • I used Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo. + Cotton DK for my blanket which is a really lovely yarn. It’s a cotton / bamboo blended yarn that uses natural fibres for a luxurious crafting experience that’s kind to sensitive skin. Yet it can still go in the washing machine and tumble dryer (on a cool cycle) which makes it perfect for a blanket for the home. It comes in a gorgeous range of naturally inspired shades, designed to mix and match beautifully, and I picked ten colours for my blanket because there were so many lovely shades I wanted to use as many as possible!
  • And my lovely mum has been back with her hooks to make a second version of the blanket. She’s created hers in Stylecraft Special DK which I would describe as a bit of a staple in the crafting world. I’ve used it for every so many projects. It’s an acrylic yarn as it’s soft yet durable (making it particularly well suited to blankets – and it also washes well). It also comes in a vast rainbow of colours making it particularly easy to choose 8 ‘natural’ sort of shades

I’m delighted to say, as with the last CAL, that Black Sheep Wools have created some exclusive kits especially for the CAL. There are two kits available, the first is in the beautiful Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo. + Cotton. It contains 16 balls and is just £69.99 per kit. The second kit is in the crocheters favourite Stylecraft Special DK, there are 15 balls in the kits and it is just £29.99.

If you are thinking of hooking up this design using yarn from your own stash I would suggest that you would need at least 8 – 10 different colours and at least 1500 / 1600g / 4425m / 4830yds though I’ll be going into more detail about colours and yarn amounts in my next post (Friday 23 December).

Hook Size

I used a 3.5mm (US size E/4). If you were on the look out for a simple aluminium crochet hook (the kind I learnt to crochet with) then I have some in my Yarnybobs store or I also have other hooks and useful crochet tools linked in my Amazon Store.

CAL Accessories

I’m delighted to say I have once again set up some some special collaborations for this CAL for you. CAL lovers can now buy directly from small businesses that have created something special, specifically for the crochet along, which they will be sure to love! 

The Enchanted Wood KCACOUKCAL23 – Stylecraft Special DK Version

CAL Details

  1. There is no charge to join the CAL; anyone can join in as long as they have some yarn and a hook. 
  2. Whilst the pattern will be available for free here on the blog sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part, via Ravelry updates, so as not to spoilt anyone’s fun.
  3. For those that like a deadline I will be adding new details about each section every week on a Friday – see below for full schedule. For those that want to hook when they have the time then that’s fine too; there’s no pressure to this CAL it’s all about enjoying the journey and having fun!
  4. I will be using both UK and US crochet terminology in the pattern (UK/US) so you can pick your preference. I will also always include any helpful information about each element including links about special stitches with the release of each new section.

Pin this project for later:

The Schedule

Wednesday 21 December 2023CAL Details – including start date, schedule, yarn amounts and hook size
Friday 23 December 2022CAL Planning – more about the design, colours, yarn and support available
Friday 20 January 2023Part 1 – The Tree
Friday 27 January 2023Part 2 – Little Buds
Friday 3 February 2023Part 3 – Ferns
Friday 10 February 2023Part 4 – Pinecones
Friday 17 February 2023Part 5 – Acorns
Friday 24 February 2023Part 6 – Mushrooms
Friday 3 March 2023Part 7 – Bark and Branches
Friday 10 March 2023Part 8 – Leaf Border
Friday 14 April 2023Tah Dah! Your finished blankets

Updates and Support:

Keep up to date with the details via the following links:

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Abundance and Heritage

We have now reached the finale of our four week crochet-along. We can now see in our sights the end of the harvest as we draw into September and we can enjoy a final crochet community celebration as we finish our Lammas Day shawls.

Although we are on the last part of our CAL, if you are joining in at a later date you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page where all the CAL posts are one place. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link below).

This week we will continue our decreases as we till the earth by harrowing and ploughing the fields we have sown, and gather together in the abundance of the harvest. We will have a bit of crochet heritage with the familiar treble cluster (as seen in a traditional granny square) and think of our cluster of stitches as also representing a time where every available man, woman and child, was needed to get the crops in.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 3;

Row 134: (RS): Starting with a decrease;Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 59sts

Row 135: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 58sts

Row 136: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 57sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 137: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eleven more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 56sts

Rows 138 – 139: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 55 / 54sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 140: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 53sts

Rows 141 – 142: Repeat rows 135 – 136, turn. 52 / 51sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 143: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 50sts

Rows 144 – 145: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 49 / 48sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 146: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat nine more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 47sts

Rows 147 – 148: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 46 / 45sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

Row 149: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eight more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 44sts

Rows 150 – 151: Repeat row 136 and 135, turn. 41 / 42sts

Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 152: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 41sts

Rows 153 – 154: Repeat row 135 and 136, turn. 38 / 39sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern. The ch4 in the pattern counts as a dtr;

Row 155: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, miss next st, (3dtr in the next st, miss 2sts) repeat nine more times across the row, 3dtr in the next st, miss the next st, 1dtr in the next st, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 38sts

Row 156: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp before the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 37sts

Row 157: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp before the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat ten more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 36sts

Row 158: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 3tr in the last st, turn. 35sts

Row 159: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, (3dtr in the sp between the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 34sts

Row 160: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last st, turn. 33sts

Row 161: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp after the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, turn. 32sts

Row 162: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp between the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat eight more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 31sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 163: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 30sts

Row 164: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 29sts

Rows 165 – 189: Repeat rows 163 – 164, turn. 4sts

Row 190: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next st, turn. 3sts

Row 191: Ch1, dc3tog. 1st

Fasten off with a sl st, weave in all ends.

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

Blocking your shawl:

The design of this wrap will benefit from being wet blocked;

  1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
  1. Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board
  1. Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g. check the height and width are correct)
  1. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.

If you were wondering what I use to block my shawls I use this simple foam playmats to pin my shawls down, I swear by these Knitpro blockers and I also use these T-pins for lacy bits and corner points.

Written Pattern Link:

Now that we are on the last part of the CAL a PDF document of the pattern has been put together by Anchor Yarns which you can find as a free download on their website here.

And that’s it!

Your shawl is now finished! Maybe to celebrate you can go break bread somewhere nice wearing your new shawl.

Support:

You can still get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – I can’t wait to see your finished shawls.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.


Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Edited: Correction made to row 119 (7 October 2021)

Can you believe it’s nearly the end of August? I suppose the summer can be a busy time which makes the weeks fly by, and it means it’s time for Week 3 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

I hope you are ready to start Part 3 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and start to watch our spikes of wheat become heavy with their ears of grain.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

  • 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
  • 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
  • 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • RS                   Right Side
  • cm                   Centimetre
  • ch                    Chain
  • sp                    Space
  • st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
  • Grain St (Grst): [1 puff st, ch3, 1 puff st] in the same stitch
  • Puff St: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space.  Yarn over again and pull up a long loop) once more.  Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.  Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch (the ch1 does not count in the st count).

PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern is for a triangular shawl that will now decrease with each row; decreases are made on one side only.
  • Add a stitch marker on the decrease side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark decrease side.
  • You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
  • Check st counts at the end of each row to keep on track
  • Keep any turning ch’s on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 3

Attach YARN A to the top of the first st of row 97 worked of part 2;

Notes:

  • The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
  • Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;

Row 98: (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the same st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 95sts

Row 99: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 94sts

Row 100: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 93sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 101: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 92sts

Rows 102 – 103: Repeat row 100 and 99, turn. 91 / 90sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 104: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 89sts

Rows 105 – 106: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 88 / 87sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 107: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 86sts

Rows 108 – 109: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 85 / 84sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 110: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 83sts

Rows 111 – 112: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 82 / 81sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

Row 113: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 5sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 80sts

Rows 114 – 115: Repeat rows 100 – 99, turn. 79 / 78sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 116: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 77sts

Rows 117 – 118: Repeat rows 99 – 100, turn. 76 / 75sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating five row stitch pattern;

Note: In the pattern where it says to work into the next ch3-sp, this is the space in the middle of the Grst

Row 119 (WS): Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (9 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 120: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (9 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 121: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, tr2tog, turn. (9 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 122: Ch1, tr2tog, 4tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 71sts

Row 123: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 70sts

Row 124: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (Grst, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 125: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (8 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 126: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 127: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the next 1tr’s of the previous row, tr2tog. 1tr in the last st, turn. 66sts

Row 128: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in each st across the row, turn. 65sts

Row 129: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, 1tr in the next 4sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (7 Grsts, 29tr)

Row 130: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 6sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (7 Grsts, 28tr)

Row 131: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row,1tr in the next 2sts, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (6 Grsts, 27tr)

Row 132: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 61sts

Row 133: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 60sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 3 completed! We will be continuing with our decreases next week to finish off our shawl.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.


Filet Fantastic CAL: Made by You!

Although our recent crochet along journey is at an end I really wanted to do a post showcasing some of the wonderful Filet Fantastic blankets that YOU have made! It’s been such a privilege to have had the opportunity to watch your blankets grow every week – it has been really special to see.

Don’t if you are new to the blog and this is the first you are hearing about this CAL; you can find a list with all the links about the CAL here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it will also be available in an e-book on Ravelry. Now that the CAL is over the full e-booklet with all the pattern details has been uploaded to Ravelry (and will be added to my other pattern stores if you don’t use Ravelry). This booklet is available in either UK or US terms and contains the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place.

❤️🧡💛 Purchase the CAL e-Book on Ravelry  💚💙💜

It’s amazing how many countries this blanket has been made in including; UK, US, Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Germany, Canada, Sweden, Czech Republic, Italy, France and Ireland!

There have been many beautiful blankets put together with the exclusive kits from Black Sheep Wools , there were two rainbow colourway options, one in Scheepjes Colour Crafter (DK) and another in Scheepjes Riverwashed (4ply) – both are yarns which I’ve personally used many times and love.

Doesn’t that collection of beautiful happy rainbow blankets just make your heart sing! They are all just so pretty!

If you were looking to purchase a kit from Black Sheep Wools although the kits are showing out of stock at the moment, Black Sheep are in the process of getting the yarn together to restock (it’s just been held up a little by the new Brexit procedures). If you click on the button ‘notify me when available’ on their website, then you will get an email when the kits are available to order again.

There are also some stash buster, own colourways or single colour blankets photos that have been shared. I’d love to share all the blankets that have been made, as they are all so fantastic – but that would be an extremely lost post, so I have just selected a few different ones for inspiration purposes.

Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I have really loved seeing your finished blankets 💕

Although the our current CAL is now over please keep sharing your photos on Ravelry, in the Facebook group and Instagram – they are such a wonderful source of inspiration for us all.

I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! There’s actually more people than me that helped to make this CAL happen! Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn support for the Colour Crafter blanket so I could offer an alternative option of yarn for you. I need to thank Sara and Lucy from Black Sheep Wools for their time in putting together the kits, big thanks to Mrs G Makes and Simply Shade Cards for their stitch marker and shade card contributions.

I also need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible and who helped with the moderation of the Facebook Group during CAL. So big shout outs to Kimberlie, Steff, Kim, Tracey L, Tracey P, Amanda, Leanne, Paula, Dulcy, Jan, Jacki and Leanne – this wouldn’t have been possible without your help!

Thanks as always to my family for bearing with me while I worked on the CAL; especially my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo, and to my wonderful mum who crocheted up the second colour crafter version of the blanket 💕

Now it’s time for me to fold up my Filet Fantastic Blanket!

But our community crafting endeavours are not yet over for this year, we’ve got our summer make-along starting on 5 July (read more about Whispers of the Sea here).

You might also wish to mark on your calendar a BRAND NEW four part FREE mini make along, sponsored by Anchor Yarns, starting on 1 August – though I’ll tell you more about that later, though you could always sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter to be kept up to date with any new plans.

And of course there is always 2022…you’ll be pleased to hear that planning for the next big CAL is already underway! 

I hope you will continue to join me with these projects, it’s so wonderful to watch my designs grow with you!

Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!

Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.

KCACOUK CAL 2018 | Stitch Story CAL Inspiration

Our stitch story crochet along journey is at an end! But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER.

Now it’s time to fold up my blanket because I’m going to share some of the amazing finished Stitch Story Crochet blankets made by YOU!

folded-blanket-sscal18

But first I need to share Esther’s, from It’s All in A Nutshell, finished blanket! I know many of you really enjoyed Esther’s accompanying videos to the CAL and the link to her tutorials on her blog here (I’ve also added the link on the main CAL page). It’s so pretty in that colourway isn’t it (Scheepjes Riverwashed Shade Wheaton)! 

stitch-story-cal-2

I love that people have chosen to make blankets all in one colour like mine or multicoloured like my mums. All the colourways that were shared with me were fantastic and pretty but I have just selected a few different for inspiration purposes. So without further ado here are some unbelievably gorgeous blankets to feast your eyes on – and I’ve also added some of the stories the blanket owners have shared!

gerda-2

Made by Gerda for her daughter 💕

barbara-2

Made by Barbara and for her son who likes to steal this blanket to snuggle under! 💕

ruby-2

Ruby took joy in the creating of her beautiful blue blanket 💕

linda-2

Made by Linda for her daughter who loved the gift 💕

sara-2

Made in different tonal blues by Sara 💕

lynn-2

Lynn hooked 3 of each of the large blocks for her pretty blanket 💕

elizabeth-2

Elizabeth made only the little blocks and chose a lovely grouped arrangement 💕

Aren’t they just all stunning! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me this year and that shared their beautiful work with me! I loved seeing your finished blankets 💕

I need at this point to say some quick thank you’s! I’ll try not to turn it into too much of an Oscar speech but I feel it’s important to acknowledge all the people behind the scenes that helped make this CAL happen!

Many thanks to Scheepjes for supplying the yarn for both blankets and so I could make this pattern for you. I need to thank Esther (It’s All in A Nutshell) for making the wonderful CAL video tutorials and to Iris who wonderfully translated the CAL from English to Dutch (which you can find on her blog Een Mooi Gebaar links to all the posts are here).

mum-and-scheepjes-yarn-sscal18

I need to say a MAHOOSIVE thank you to all the testers that helped with the colossal task of turning my scribbles into something legible for you all to make! Big shout outs to Jean, Steff, Dianne, Peggy, Kim, Leanne, Olwyn, Kimberlie, Jenn, Dulcy and Marie! 

Thanks as always to my eldest daughter for posing in photos for me (even without marshmallow bribes!) and to my husband for driving round to find that perfect spot for a photo!

And I can’t write this post without thanking the lady without whom I just wouldn’t have ever finished two blankets in time. My lovely mum! I love the fact that we did this together and thank you for helping me with my crochet story, for your weaving in ends prowess and for rolling up your sleeves to just help me get it done! 💕

mum-and-me-sscal18

To be the first to find out about the crochet along for 2019 (later this year) you might like to subscribe to the blog here (if you haven’t already), sign up to my newsletter and / or join the KCACOUK Community Facebook group.

Until next time thank you for hooking along with me!

Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Joining and Edging

SSCAL18-The-End

Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:

Stitch-Story-Part13-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Joining your blocks together

First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design. 

Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.

Top tips for joining:

  1. When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
  2. When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
  3. Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.

Whip-stitch:

  1. Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
  3. Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
  4. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Slip stitch join:

  1. Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
  3. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Post Stitch Rib Border

I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed.  I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).

Joining

Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join

Corner

Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends

Schematics

Heather-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

Jacki-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…

Esthers-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!

Irish-Blessing

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 12 – The Bee Keeper

SSCAL18-Block12-Blog

Well ladies and gents it’s time for the final block of the Stitch Story blanket! Then it’s just the joining and edging to go and we are done for this year’s crochet-along, and you will have a fabulous blanket all ready to use or gift at Christmas! 

This next block is one of my favourites and was actually going to be the first block in the CAL as it utilises only very easy stitches, however it got moved to the end because it is one of those patterns that you have to concentrate on to get right, but I have included some helpful tips from my testers below.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able.

You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation was available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 12 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 12 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part12-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Honeycomb: The symbol of a hard worker bee. It’s a lucky stitch signifying hard work and sweet rewards!

Design 12: The Bee Keeper

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block12SML-SSCAL

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 26, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (25 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (RS) : Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-25: Repeat rows 2-5,  at the end of row 25 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12SML-SSCAL-CHART

The pattern does not use difficult stitches but it can be tricky to keep a tab on the rows so you know which row you are on.  One of my testers made this very handy chart (below) which you might find helpful:

Block-12-Row-Help

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

BlBlock12_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The ch2, at the beginning of a row,  count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2: (RS): Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. 

Row 6-49: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 49 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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