Time for part 7 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Part 7: Half and Half Granny Square:

The British halfpenny (½p) coin was introduced in February 1971 and although I was born in the late 70’s I still remember going to the local corner shop for ½ penny chews as a youngster! To celebrate all half things part 7 is a half and half twist on the classic granny square.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Post = refers to either the tr/dc or ch 4 on the end of each rnd (used in the joining as you go section only).

Stitch Guidance:

UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: The blocks are made up from two half granny squares (triangles), you can either make 20 triangles and join together to make 10 half and half blocks OR you can join each triangle half as you go, details below.
Note 2: The Ch 4 at the beginning of each round counts as 1 tr/dc + ch 1
Note 3: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends and join your triangles together so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 2: Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 3: Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 4: Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 5: Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left. With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 7: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

Apologies in advance for my rather wonky looking square! For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 7 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 7 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.