Free Crochet Pattern | Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Anyone else get to October and get an overwhelming urge to make some pumpkins?

Not just me, phew, that’s handy 😉 because today I’m going to be sharing a brand new FREE pattern with you; my Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio.

There’s a large, medium and small pumpkin, and as they are made from Aran / Worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook they are a quick make. And they are easy too, perfect for any beginner crocheters, as they only use simple stitches, who might be looking for an autumnal project.

They are also incredibly satisfying and sort of addictive to make, I already want to make some more to create a whole pumpkin patch!

For my baskets I used Stylecraft Special Aran which I had in my stash. I chose three natural looking colours of Spice, Camel and Pistachio but you could really play with your colours to match your home decor. They would be perfect for Autumnal table settings, around the mantle, or for a welcoming doorway – after all what’s October without a few pumpkins!

The Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Aran / Worsted); Stylecraft Special Aran used in photographs.

  • 1 ball Spice  (Shade  1711) YARN A
  • 1 ball Camel  (Shade 1420)  YARN B
  • 1 ball Pistachio (Shade 1822)       YARN C
  • 1 ball Dark Brown (Shade 1004)  YARN D

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

Finished Sizes:   

  • Large pumpkin: Approx: 15cm (5.9″) high / 52 cm (20″) circumference
  • Medium pumpkin: Approx: 12cm (4.7″) high / 44cm (17.7″) circumference
  • Small pumpkin: Approx: 10cm (3.9″) high / 35cm (13.7″) circumference

Gauge: 5dc= 1.4 inches / 3 .5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Stitch Guidance

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Decreases in this pattern are worked as an invisible decrease in the following mannerInsert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.  Working a decrease in this way helps reduce  appearance of holes that can be made when working a decrease the normal way.

Pattern Notes

  • Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice at tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
  • Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a  spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V               farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as  instructed.

Pattern

Large Pumpkin Body

Rnd 1: With A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 12sts

Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] around. 18 sts

Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc] around. 24sts

Rnd 5: [1dc in next 3sts, 2dc] around. 30sts

Rnd 6: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc] around. 36sts

Rnd 7: [1dc in next 5sts, 2dc] around. 42sts

Rnd 8: [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around. 48sts

Rnd 9: [1dc in next 7sts, 2dc] around. 54sts

Rnd 10: [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around. 60sts

Rnd 11: [1dc in next 9sts, 2dc] around. 66sts

Rnd 12: 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 10sts, 2dc] around until the last 5sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 72sts

Rnds 13-27: Dc around

Rnd 28: [1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog] around. 66sts

Rnd 29: [1dc in next 9sts, dc2tog] around. 60sts

Rnd 30: [1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog] around. 54sts

Rnd 31: [1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog] around. 48sts

Rnd 32: [1dc in next 6sts, dc2tog] around. 42sts

Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go.

Rnd 33: [1dc in next 5sts, dc2tog] around. 36sts

Rnd 34: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 30sts

Rnd 35: [1dc in next 3sts, dc2tog] around. 24sts

Rnd 36: [1dc in next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18sts

Rnd 37: [1dc, dc2tog] around. 12sts

Rnd 38: [Dc2tog] around. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Large Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Large Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 9: With B; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 54sts

Rnd 10: 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around until the last 4sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 60sts

Rnds 11-23: Dc around

Rnds 24 – 32: Repeat rows 30 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.

Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Rnd 1: With D; working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5sts

Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 10sts

Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around

Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Medium Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 10sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Small Pumpkin Body

Rnds 1 – 7: With C; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 42sts

Rnd 8: 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around until the last 3sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 48sts

Rnds 9-19: Dc around

Rnds 20 – 26: Repeat rows 32 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts

Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts

Small Pumpkin Stalk

Rnds 1 – 5: With D; make as the Medium Pumpkin Stalk

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Stuff the stalk

Small Pumpkin Stalk bottom

Rnd 1: With D; ; working into a magic ring, 8dc. 8sts

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.

Making up

For each pumpkin:

1. Take the length of yarn tail, and wrap your yarn around  your pumpkin twice; taking it through the centre of the pumpkin and pulling it taught to shape your pumpkin into segments, tie in a  secure knot at the top.

2. Repeat step 1 twice more in equal segments (creating six segments in total).

3. Sew the stalk bottom onto the bottom of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the  bottom.

4. Sew the stem onto the top of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the top.

And that’s it! Enjoy your gourd-eous pumpkins!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! 

And if you haven’t had enough of pumpkins yet then you might like my Chunky Pumpkins that I made for my Deramores Designer Shop last year. They are made in a totally different way, with a different stitch using chunky yarn and a bigger hook so you’d get to try something new!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.

Free Crochet Pattern | Creativa Tuck Baskets

Looking for a quick, easy and useful crochet project? Well I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another free pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns, that might just be what you are looking for.

I’m a bit of a sucker for a crochet basket, I love them, so when I got the opportunity to play with some Anchor Creativa 8ply Cotton I knew the yarn was destined to become a basket idea I’d been thinking of. 

I really wanted to make a couple of baskets that were a different shape from the usual round baskets you see, I wanted to make at least two baskets, and I also wanted them to nest inside each other. The idea came from a sort of square box type basket that I’d seen made from fabric that I thought might make a good shape to try and recreate in crochet.

The finished result were the ‘Tuck Baskets’ named for two reasons; because they have a little tuck at the side to help them stand up and be more sturdy and because they can tuck inside each other.

For my baskets I used Creativa 8ply which is a yarn that I’d not had the opportunity to use before, though I’ve used the Creativa Fino 4ply for lots of different projects. The 8ply is the 4plys bigger sister; it’s quite a chunky DK with the same vibrant colour palette which makes it a great choice for home décor items. It’s a 100% cotton natural fibre, that’s soft and silky, that comes in a 50g / 70m.

I used 4mm hook (US size G/6), and 3 different colours (shades 4620008-00391 / Teal, Shade 4620008-00258 / Raspberry, Shade 4620008-00105 / Cream) to create these fun little baskets.

I enjoyed making them in the contrast colours of the Raspberry and Teal and then I used the Cream to tie them together. As I also love wooden buttons I included some 15mm ones in the finished aesthetic for each side which I think worked out quite nicely.

Square and cute these tuck baskets are perfect for displaying on your bookcase or cabinets to tidy away those small items that don’t have a designated space!

The Creativa Tuck Basket pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.

FREE ANCHOR PATTERN DOWNLOAD

Make them to match your house decor, or maybe gift as a cute house warming gift, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!

The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches – though I’ve also included a chart to the pattern for that extra helping hand.

If you hook up the Tuck Baskets I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.

Free-bee Crochet Pattern | Bee-utiful Clutch Bag

Hey folks, hope you are well in your part of the world. I’ve got a lovely free-bee for you to enjoy today! Allow me to introduce the Bee-utiful Clutch bag – a small bag with big textured personality!

The bag uses a stitch that I’ve used before; on the Bee Keeper block in the Stitch Story CAL. At the time I thought the stitch pattern was so effective with creating such a beautiful texture that knew I wanted to use it again.

Fast forward three years or so to when I came across some yellow Anchor Creativa Fino in my stash. The stitch idea reignited itself as I thought I would make the bee themed clutch bag idea I’d got rumbling around in my head.

Super simple to make and with many practical uses for a clutch bag or makeup bag; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. I used some bee fabric to line mine, to finish off the inside, but with this stitch pattern you could probably get away with not lining it if you aren’t a fan of sewing.

The following Bee-utiful Clutch Bag is free here on the blog or you can make a beeline for the pattern in your favourite pattern stores where you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Bee-utiful Clutch Bag

MATERIALS

Yarn Required: 100g of Yellow

Yarn used: Anchor Creativa Fino used in photos;

(Shade: #00306)

About the yarn: 4ply / Fingering Weight; 125m per 50g ball, 100% Cotton

Hook Size: 3mm (US size D/3)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

You will also need:

· A yarn needle

· Stitch Markers

· 2cm (0.8”) Button

· Optional: Facing and material for lining your bag

Finished Size:      19cm (7.4 inches) wide x 12cm (4.7 inches) high

Gauge: 6sts = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a  different size.

STITCH GUIDANCE

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.

Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog):  Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of  removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.

Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

PATTERN

Main Body of Clutch:

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on.

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch  markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (WS) : Ch1 *5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: (RS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 htr then 5 sl st in 5sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: (WS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 sl st then 5 sl st in 5 htr * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, 5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-52: Repeat rows 2-5 thirteen times

From this point onwards you will begin shaping the clutch flap;

Row 53: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 46sts, dc2tog, turn. 48sts

Row 54: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 44sts, dc2tog, turn. 46sts

Row 55: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 42sts, dc2tog, turn. 44sts

Rows 57 – 71: Continue decreasing on each end until you have 14sts left.

Row 72: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, ch4, miss 4sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 12sts

Row 73: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, 1dc in each of the ch4 sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 10sts

Row 74: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 6sts, dc2tog, turn, fasten off and weave in ends. 8sts

MAKING UP:

· Fold the bag in half, leaving the gap at the top open with the flap. and  seam both sides together on the wrong side.

· Turn your bag right side round and add your button to the body of the bag opposite the open button hole

· Optional: create a lining for your bag

And that’s it! Get ready for taking it out and about and bee-witching all who see your bee-utiful new clutch bag.

If you hook up the Bee-utiful Clutch Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedthank you for your support.