I’m bringing the drama today – but in the right way, only to your wardrobe! Allow me to introduce the new Koito Crocodile Cowl!
This perennially chic and effortlessly sophisticated cowl is crying out to be combined with that extra special skein you’ve been saving.
This fabulously dramatic cowl, with it’s showy stitches, was something I’d had in mind ever since I first saw, and then subsequently purchased, some hand dyed yarn called ‘Koi Pond – Showa’ from The Yarn Whisperer.
The yarn is sock weight (4ply) 80% Corriedale wool, 20% nylon with splashes of bright oranges, greys and rich creams. They are the colours you would find on the ‘Showa’ variety of ornamental koi which was Kitey’s inspiration for this particular colourway.
I knew I wanted to create something using a stitch that kind of looked like fish scales which is why I used the crocodile stitch – it’s definitely one of the most unique stitch and texture you can make in crochet. I’m in love with the texture; it’s the type that just makes you want to run your fingers over it!
This pattern is perfect for intermediate crocheters that want to add the crocodile stitch in their repertoire or for adventurous crocheter wanting to learn something new. And it’s now available for purchase from usual pattern platforms – but scroll down to see limited one day special offer to get the pattern for free!
This pattern will be available for FREE from 12pm GMT (8am EST) on 15 March 2023 for 24hrs as part of the Madame Stitches Wraps, Scarves and Cowls: Spring Edition Blog Hop.
2: Click on the button below to go to the Koito Crocodile Cowl on Ravelry.
3: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
4: If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the cowl from any of the links to my patterns stores (links above)
All the patterns from Madame Stitches Wraps, Scarves and Cowls: Spring Edition Blog Hop are available in a limited edition bundle which I wrote about in a previous blog post. Go straight to the bundle via the link below:
It includes all 22 designs featured in the blog hop in one bundle that you can download to your favourite device. You’ll then be able to print out individual patterns as your convenience. This pattern bundle of crochet women’s accessories won’t last for long. It will only be available until Sunday, 26 March2023.
Exclusive Yarn Discount:
I’m delighted to tell you that the most lovely Kitey (aka The Yarn Whisperer), who’s yarn I used for my Koito Crocodile Cowl, is offering 10% discount on his fabulous koi inspired hand-dyed yarn until the end of March 2023. So if you want to make one just like mine you can, isn’t he kind!
Just use coupon code KOITO10on his website (please note this is a different code from the blog hop code).
Pin for Later:
I can’t wait to see your versions of the Koito Crocodile Cowl. I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another FREE pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns. This time we’ve come up with a cute unicorn baby set for you, which I made, with their lovely Baby Pure Cotton yarn.
If you are not familiar with Baby Pure Cotton yarn it’s a natural 100% cotton which is combed (so not mercerised) making it a lovely soft yarn to work with. It’s available in 29 soft powdered shades; I used 1 ball of cream (00105), 1 ball of grey (00398), 1 ball of pink (00423) and 1 ball of blue (00128) in total (though it was only a tiny bit of the pink and blue so you’d have some left over for other projects).
The yarn is ideal for babies as it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant to be entirely safe for new-borns. It’s also delicate and soft so very kind and gentle for babies sensitive skin.
The Unicorn Baby Set is the perfect gift for a baby shower or new baby gift! The pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
This pattern would be suitable for adventurous beginners or for crocheters new to amigurumi as they are quite simple shapes to make with just increases and decreases.
Handmade baby rattles and teethers are such a cute gift to gift a baby and new parents, but please note that it is the responsibility of the maker to ensure that toys, made using this pattern, are safe for young children and are suitably tested before gifting.
If you hook up the Baby Set I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your photos with us on social media (facebook, twitter or or as a project on Ravelry) – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new free pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Anyone else get to October and get an overwhelming urge to make some pumpkins?
Not just me, phew, that’s handy 😉 because today I’m going to be sharing a brand new FREE pattern with you; my Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio.
There’s a large, medium and small pumpkin, and as they are made from Aran / Worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook they are a quick make. And they are easy too, perfect for any beginner crocheters, as they only use simple stitches, who might be looking for an autumnal project.
They are also incredibly satisfying and sort of addictive to make, I already want to make some more to create a whole pumpkin patch!
For my baskets I used Stylecraft Special Aran which I had in my stash. I chose three natural looking colours of Spice, Camel and Pistachio but you could really play with your colours to match your home decor. They would be perfect for Autumnal table settings, around the mantle, or for a welcoming doorway – after all what’s October without a few pumpkins!
The Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Large pumpkin: Approx: 15cm (5.9″) high / 52 cm (20″) circumference
Medium pumpkin: Approx: 12cm (4.7″) high / 44cm (17.7″) circumference
Small pumpkin: Approx: 10cm (3.9″) high / 35cm (13.7″) circumference
Gauge: 5dc= 1.4 inches / 3 .5cm
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Decreases in this pattern are worked as an invisible decrease in the following manner – Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook. Working a decrease in this way helps reduce appearance of holes that can be made when working a decrease the normal way.
Pattern Notes
Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice at tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Pattern
Large Pumpkin Body
Rnd 1: With A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 12sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] around. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc] around. 24sts
Rnd 5: [1dc in next 3sts, 2dc] around. 30sts
Rnd 6: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc] around. 36sts
Rnd 7: [1dc in next 5sts, 2dc] around. 42sts
Rnd 8: [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around. 48sts
Rnd 9: [1dc in next 7sts, 2dc] around. 54sts
Rnd 10: [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around. 60sts
Rnd 11: [1dc in next 9sts, 2dc] around. 66sts
Rnd 12: 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 10sts, 2dc] around until the last 5sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 72sts
Rnds 13-27: Dc around
Rnd 28: [1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog] around. 66sts
Rnd 29: [1dc in next 9sts, dc2tog] around. 60sts
Rnd 30: [1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog] around. 54sts
Rnd 31: [1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog] around. 48sts
Rnd 32: [1dc in next 6sts, dc2tog] around. 42sts
Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go.
Rnd 33: [1dc in next 5sts, dc2tog] around. 36sts
Rnd 34: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 30sts
Rnd 35: [1dc in next 3sts, dc2tog] around. 24sts
Rnd 36: [1dc in next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18sts
Rnd 37: [1dc, dc2tog] around. 12sts
Rnd 38: [Dc2tog] around. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.
Large Pumpkin Stalk
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts
Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around
Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Large Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Medium Pumpkin Body
Rnds 1 – 9: With B; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 54sts
Rnd 10: 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around until the last 4sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 60sts
Rnds 11-23: Dc around
Rnds 24 – 32: Repeat rows 30 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.
Medium Pumpkin Stalk
Rnd 1: With D; working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5sts
Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 10sts
Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around
Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Medium Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 10sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Small Pumpkin Body
Rnds 1 – 7: With C; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 42sts
Rnd 8: 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around until the last 3sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 48sts
Rnds 9-19: Dc around
Rnds 20 – 26: Repeat rows 32 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts
Small Pumpkin Stalk
Rnds 1 – 5: With D; make as the Medium Pumpkin Stalk
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Small Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnd 1: With D; ; working into a magic ring, 8dc. 8sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Making up
For each pumpkin:
1. Take the length of yarn tail, and wrap your yarn around your pumpkin twice; taking it through the centre of the pumpkin and pulling it taught to shape your pumpkin into segments, tie in a secure knot at the top.
2. Repeat step 1 twice more in equal segments (creating six segments in total).
3. Sew the stalk bottom onto the bottom of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the bottom.
4. Sew the stem onto the top of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the top.
And that’s it! Enjoy your gourd-eous pumpkins!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
And if you haven’t had enough of pumpkins yet then you might like my Chunky Pumpkins that I made for my Deramores Designer Shop last year. They are made in a totally different way, with a different stitch using chunky yarn and a bigger hook so you’d get to try something new!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Looking for a quick, easy and useful crochet project? Well I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another free pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns, that might just be what you are looking for.
I’m a bit of a sucker for a crochet basket, I love them, so when I got the opportunity to play with some Anchor Creativa 8ply Cotton I knew the yarn was destined to become a basket idea I’d been thinking of.
I really wanted to make a couple of baskets that were a different shape from the usual round baskets you see, I wanted to make at least two baskets, and I also wanted them to nest inside each other. The idea came from a sort of square box type basket that I’d seen made from fabric that I thought might make a good shape to try and recreate in crochet.
The finished result were the ‘Tuck Baskets’ named for two reasons; because they have a little tuck at the side to help them stand up and be more sturdy and because they can tuck inside each other.
For my baskets I used Creativa 8ply which is a yarn that I’d not had the opportunity to use before, though I’ve used the Creativa Fino 4ply for lots of different projects. The 8ply is the 4plys bigger sister; it’s quite a chunky DK with the same vibrant colour palette which makes it a great choice for home décor items. It’s a 100% cotton natural fibre, that’s soft and silky, that comes in a 50g / 70m.
I used 4mm hook (US size G/6), and 3 different colours (shades 4620008-00391 / Teal, Shade 4620008-00258 / Raspberry, Shade 4620008-00105 / Cream) to create these fun little baskets.
I enjoyed making them in the contrast colours of the Raspberry and Teal and then I used the Cream to tie them together. As I also love wooden buttons I included some 15mm ones in the finished aesthetic for each side which I think worked out quite nicely.
Square and cute these tuck baskets are perfect for displaying on your bookcase or cabinets to tidy away those small items that don’t have a designated space!
The Creativa Tuck Basket pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
Make them to match your house decor, or maybe gift as a cute house warming gift, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches – though I’ve also included a chart to the pattern for that extra helping hand.
If you hook up the Tuck Baskets I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Hey folks, hope you are well in your part of the world. I’ve got a lovely free-bee for you to enjoy today! Allow me to introduce the Bee-utiful Clutch bag – a small bag with big textured personality!
The bag uses a stitch that I’ve used before; on the Bee Keeper block in the Stitch Story CAL. At the time I thought the stitch pattern was so effective with creating such a beautiful texture that knew I wanted to use it again.
Fast forward three years or so to when I came across some yellow Anchor Creativa Fino in my stash. The stitch idea reignited itself as I thought I would make the bee themed clutch bag idea I’d got rumbling around in my head.
Super simple to make and with many practical uses for a clutch bag or makeup bag; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. I used some bee fabric to line mine, to finish off the inside, but with this stitch pattern you could probably get away with not lining it if you aren’t a fan of sewing.
The following Bee-utiful Clutch Bag is free here on the blog or you can make a beeline for the pattern in your favourite pattern stores where you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Bee-utiful Clutch Bag
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 100g of Yellow
Yarn used: Anchor Creativa Fino used in photos;
(Shade: #00306)
About the yarn: 4ply / Fingering Weight; 125m per 50g ball, 100% Cotton
Hook Size: 3mm (US size D/3)
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
· 2cm (0.8”) Button
· Optional: Facing and material for lining your bag
Finished Size: 19cm (7.4 inches) wide x 12cm (4.7 inches) high
Gauge: 6sts = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st
PATTERN
Main Body of Clutch:
Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on.
Tip 2:You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)
Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.
Row 2 (WS) : Ch1 *5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 3: (RS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 htr then 5 sl st in 5sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 4: (WS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 sl st then 5 sl st in 5 htr * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 5: Ch1, 5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 6-52: Repeat rows 2-5 thirteen times
From this point onwards you will begin shaping the clutch flap;
Row 53: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 46sts, dc2tog, turn. 48sts
Row 54: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 44sts, dc2tog, turn. 46sts
Row 55: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 42sts, dc2tog, turn. 44sts
Rows 57 – 71: Continue decreasing on each end until you have 14sts left.
Row 72: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, ch4, miss 4sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 12sts
Row 73: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, 1dc in each of the ch4 sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 10sts
Row 74: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 6sts, dc2tog, turn, fasten off and weave in ends. 8sts
MAKING UP:
· Fold the bag in half, leaving the gap at the top open with the flap. and seam both sides together on the wrong side.
· Turn your bag right side round and add your button to the body of the bag opposite the open button hole
· Optional: create a lining for your bag
And that’s it! Get ready for taking it out and about and bee-witching all who see your bee-utiful new clutch bag.
If you hook up the Bee-utiful Clutch Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
A lightweight crochet market bag is a must to sling over your shoulders to take grocery shopping, or on a picnic trip, or to the beach – or anywhere you need! My new and free Freccia Filet Market Bag is just the ticket for carrying your oranges – or anything else that takes your fancy!
I think there’s an even bigger need for crochet bags these days as we all try to utilise eco-friendly reusable bags over plastic ones. It’s a great way to use your crochet skills to make something useful and practical – and reusable bags are also perfect summer projects when made in a lightweight yarn!
I’ve had in my mind a pattern for a market bag for ages, so when the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns asked me if I’d like to make a bag with some of their Anchor Freccia yarn I quickly said yes!
Freccia is a 3 ply high quality 100% Egyptian Giza cotton thread offering a delicate balance of softness, flexibility, body and brightness. It’s a versatile thread, available in 6 thread thicknesses, which I’ve used it before for a scarf (see FREE Freccia Flor Scarf here), and it comes in a wide range of different colours.
I used no. 6 thickness again this time, with a 2.5mm hook (US size C/2), and I chose to make my bag in a lovely rich royal purple (shade 00092). The whole bag, including the straps, used 4 x 50g (4 x 175m) balls in total to create a bag with a width of 38cm (14″) x length 40cm (15″) , bag handles 62cm (24″) in length.
Made with cotton yarn the Freccia Filet Market Bag is super robust and if it gets dirty, you can just throw it in the washing machine and hang it up to dry!
I wanted to create a bag that was strong and durable, but also that would be a bit pretty – that’s where the filet came in. To begin with I had in mind a larger filet design on the bag, but quickly realised that wasn’t going to be at all practical as things could potentially fall through the ‘holes’ so I decided the design would be served better by having a filet detail around the top.
The bag and the filet sections are worked in a unique way in rounds and in rows to minimise a visible seam at the end. Crocheting the bottom and the straps, with extra slip stitches, also makes the bag extra durable so they can hold then a lot of weight even with only using a lightweight cotton.
The Freccia Filet Market Bag is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
Crochet a single colour bags or in variegated yarn, or maybe in the rainbow colour palette, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. Great for anyone that wants a new reusable bag, or maybe someone who wants to try a bit of filet crochet (it’s a technique I don’t think I’m ever going to get sick of!).
Perfect for rolling up and popping in your handbag for when you need a bag, or pack it up and go!
If you hook up the Filet Market Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Ready, Steady, Autumn! Are you ready for the changing of the seasons? Autumn in the Northern Hemisphere is supposed to begin on 22 September and weirdly, here we are a couple of days later and, I swear it’s got colder and darker in the evenings already!
So to cheer us up, with the imminent onset of cooler weather, I’ve got a lovely new pattern for you. Designed to give you some instant colour gratification (if you want to go there), and nice and quick to work up to ward off the first seasonal chills, allow me to introduce the Flourite Filet Cowl.
If you aren’t familiar with filet crochet this would be a great starting project. Filet crochet is an easy technique that can make some wonderful patterns using simple stitches (chains and US double / UK treble crochet).
Inspired by Flourite quartz crystals, which are beautiful colourful minerals that crystalise in cubic form, I’ve put together a cowl which features a repeating filet ‘cube’ or diamond shape.
Worked in the round and in three colours, to represent the ombre effect of the crystals, this is a quick and easy project to work up. I wanted a smallish cowl but you could make it taller by increasing the rows, or wider, as I’ve also included in the pattern how you would adjust the starting stitches to make it bigger.
I used Scheepjes River Washed yarn, which is 4ply ,78% Cotton / 22% Acrylic and comes in 50g balls. I made mine in Danube (948), Yarra (949) and Steenbras (942) to match the colours I picked up from the crystals, but I think the cowl would look equally pretty worked in a solid colour or even in a skein of hand dyed yarn.
Rainbow flourite crystals, in spiritual healing, are supposed to promote creative thinking, mental clarity and focus and most of all help clear the mind from negative energies – all things a crocheter can enjoy whilst working up this cowl.
In fact I enjoyed making this cowl so much that I made a second one. I still using Scheepjes River Washed yarn but I wanted to see what it would look like using different colours so I used a variety of pinks, in this case I used Mekong (943), Eisack (957) and Steenbras (942).
This pattern is perfect for advanced beginners as it only uses easy stitches, or as a versatile update to an accessory collection for an intermediate crocheter! It’s also perfect for any last minute gifts you need to make! The pattern is now available for purchase from my Ravelry, LoveCrafts or Etsy stores but hang on a moment…
This pattern is also being featured as part of the E’Claire Makery Fall Fashion Blog Hopon Friday 25th September 2020.Find out how to grab a FREE printable PDF copy of the cowl below.
From September 1 to September 30 a new crochet designer will be featured each day on , and they will share a crochet pattern available as a free pdf download. The PDF will be available as a FREE PDF download on Ravelry for 24 hours.
Blog Hop Instructions:
1: Click on the button below to go to the Flourite Filet Cowl on Ravelry.
2: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the bag from either my Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts store – but there is also ANOTHER way to get this pattern – and more patterns besides!
I’ve enjoyed taking part in Claire’s blog hops before but for the Fall Fashion blog hop she’s offering something new. All the designers involved are offering a crochet bundle! This bundle includes all 32 of the crochet patterns that will be released for this event. The bundle includes all of the patterns in one place, with a table of contents to easily take you to each pattern. Plus, you won’t have to worry if this is the first you are hearing about the blog hop and you’ve missed the other days to download the patterns. You’ll already have all of them!
Just take a look at some of the gorgeous designs that are included below:
One of the best parts of the crochet pattern bundle is that it’s over 90% off of the usual price of all of these patterns separately! For just £11.45 ($15), you can get all of them! And there’s actually two patterns from me included; the Fluorite Filet Cowl and another cowl pattern exclusive to Dear Ewe coming soon!
If you want to make sure you get notifications about special events like this blog hop or tutorials, news and pattern releases then please sign up for my newsletter below.
I can’t wait to see your versions of the Flourite Filet Cowl and what colours you will chose to make it in! I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected.
In light of what’s happening in the world at the moment and in a bid to focus on something positive I’ve got a brand new crochet pattern to share with you today.
I’ve had in mind to design a bag, specifically a saddle style bag, for awhile now, but it wasn’t until I came across some Gorgeous Knits yarn in my stash that I began to develop the idea a little more.
The yarn, described on the label as ‘Aran Wool and Alpaca Blend Knitting Wool’, is what I would call proper woolly wool, that sort of hard-wearing wool best suited for non-clothing items – just perfect for a bag! I’d got 350g in total and I pretty much used up every scrap working this pattern double stranded.
I’m in love with the texture of this bag, it’s the type that just makes you want to run your fingers over it (or is it just me that does that?).
The memorable stitch pattern makes a dense, sturdy fabric which is just perfect for a bag, I don’t think you’d even have to line it, though I probably line mine at some point just to give it that completely finished off feel.
This pattern is perfect for advanced beginners that would like to learn a new stitch, or as a versatile update to an accessory collection for an intermediate crocheter! And it’s now available for purchase from my Ravelry or LoveCrafts store.
All the fittings and fixtures for the bag I purchased from Amazon – I’ve linked them up in my new KCACOUK Amazon storefront under Haberdashery if you want to use the same ones.
This pattern will be available for FREE until 3 April (US Pacific Time) as part of the E’Claire Makery March Spring Fashion Blog Hop.
2: Click on the button below to go to the Bramble Saddle Bag on Ravelry.
3: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
4: If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the bag from either my Ravelry or LoveCrafts store.
I can’t wait to see your versions of the Bramble Saddle bag and what colours you will chose to make them! I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!
So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…
Pattern:
This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry. There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).
Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy! However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.
A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
For support with the Stitch Story CAL on Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:
Social Media Links:
The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Joining your blocks together
First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design.
Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.
Top tips for joining:
When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.
Whip-stitch:
Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.
Slip stitch join:
Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.
Post Stitch Rib Border
I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.
Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.
Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed. I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).
Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join
Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends
Schematics
If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…
And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Well ladies and gents it’s time for the final block of the Stitch Story blanket! Then it’s just the joining and edging to go and we are done for this year’s crochet-along, and you will have a fabulous blanket all ready to use or gift at Christmas!
This next block is one of my favourites and was actually going to be the first block in the CAL as it utilises only very easy stitches, however it got moved to the end because it is one of those patterns that you have to concentrate on to get right, but I have included some helpful tips from my testers below.
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able.
You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!
So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…
Pattern:
This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry. There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).
Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy! However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.
A Dutch translation was available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 12 here.
For support with the Stitch Story CAL on Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 12 is below:
Social Media Links:
The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Stitch Story…
Honeycomb: The symbol of a hard worker bee. It’s a lucky stitch signifying hard work and sweet rewards!
Design 12: The Bee Keeper
Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” square
Abbreviations (same for both blocks):
Chain (Ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc)
Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
15cm / 6 inch block:
Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st
Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).
Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 26, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (25 sts)
Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.
Row 2 (RS) : Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 4: Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 5: Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 6-25: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 25 finish off and weave in ends.
The pattern does not use difficult stitches but it can be tricky to keep a tab on the rows so you know which row you are on. One of my testers made this very handy chart (below) which you might find helpful:
30cm / 12 inch block:
Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square
Note: The ch2, at the beginning of a row, count as a st
Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).
Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)
Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.
Row 2: (RS): Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 4: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 5: Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.
Row 6-49: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 49 finish off and weave in ends.
Edging for all blocks:
On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block). Fasten off and weave in ends.
You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges. Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.
And that’s it!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
