I’m super excited to tell you about the latest issue of Crochet Now magazine as it’s rather a special issue for me! Get set for a purr-fect Christmas with eight new festive Pusheen the Cat patterns in an exclusive 36 page supplement available with Issue 74.
You may remember in December last year Crochet Now magazine featured a little Pusheen I’d designed in a wee Christmas hat. I was delighted to be given the opportunity to create some more of her iconic looks in crochet.
There’s eight new patterns altogether; Pusheen in a scarf and Christmas hat with her friend Sloth, and there’s also a large cookie for Pusheen to hold, a festive wreath, candy cane, large mitten and present, and a Christmas Hat (that fits Sloth) to help create your own Pusheen Xmas scene.
For Pusheen I used some of the same Ricorumi DK yarn ‘Pusheen’ shades I used before, bringing in some more colours like Candy Pink, Turquoise, Caramel and Chocolate, all with a 3mm hook, for a lovely wintery palette.
If you are not familiar with Ricorumi DK yarn I can definitely recommend. It’s some of my favourite yarn to work with and it comes in the cutest 25g (57.5m) balls which is perfect for making these little multicoloured amigurumi characters.
I’ve actually got another pattern in this issue, you may remember Alina the Ballerina from an issue of the January issue of Your Crochet and Knitting magazine. Well in Issue 74 there’s another chance to make your hooks dance to make up this cute dancing doll.
This elegant doll is dressed to perform in her ballet slippers and tutu and is ready to twirl away to the music! This Alina has been made with Cascade 220 Superwash yarn, which is a DK yarn available in 101 different colours with a 3.5mm hook. She would make the perfect gift for any little girl who loves to dance!
If you make up any of the Pusheen patterns, or Alina the Ballerina, I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Did you know that there are now only 74 days until Christmas!? It’s coming up fast, which is why it’s handy that the latest issue of Let’s Get Crafting Knitting and Crochet magazine has a couple of festive themed patterns in to help you get ready, but there’s also a dash of Autumnal patterns if you aren’t ready for Christmas yet!
I’m delighted to say that you can see one of my designs on the front cover; Patches the Elf is this month’s cover star! With Christmas coming fast it’s the ideal time to start some craftmas projects – so why not start with a fun little elf.
He was a really fun doll to make and if you are new to crocheting amigurumi he offers a great chance to try different stitches like loops and picots.
My daughter saw the recent issue and has asked me to make her one of these cute little pumpkin pals – they are really quick to make up so you could easily finishing one in an evening. You just need to take your time dividing up the segments and make sure the yarn is really secure.
The pattern also comes with three autumn leaves for you to make, so you can create your own Autumnal display.
As usual the magazine comes with a yarn pack, which this time includes six different yarns, and includes the relevant size crochet hook and knitting needles for the projects inside.
LGC Knitting & Crochet Magazine is available in major supermarkets and newsagents across the UK or if you’re not able to get to the shops right now you can get a digital version of the mag from Pocketmags (the free cover gifts are not available via this digital subscription).
Anyone else get to October and get an overwhelming urge to make some pumpkins?
Not just me, phew, that’s handy 😉 because today I’m going to be sharing a brand new FREE pattern with you; my Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio.
There’s a large, medium and small pumpkin, and as they are made from Aran / Worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook they are a quick make. And they are easy too, perfect for any beginner crocheters, as they only use simple stitches, who might be looking for an autumnal project.
They are also incredibly satisfying and sort of addictive to make, I already want to make some more to create a whole pumpkin patch!
For my baskets I used Stylecraft Special Aran which I had in my stash. I chose three natural looking colours of Spice, Camel and Pistachio but you could really play with your colours to match your home decor. They would be perfect for Autumnal table settings, around the mantle, or for a welcoming doorway – after all what’s October without a few pumpkins!
The Slick and Quick Pumpkin Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Large pumpkin: Approx: 15cm (5.9″) high / 52 cm (20″) circumference
Medium pumpkin: Approx: 12cm (4.7″) high / 44cm (17.7″) circumference
Small pumpkin: Approx: 10cm (3.9″) high / 35cm (13.7″) circumference
Gauge: 5dc= 1.4 inches / 3 .5cm
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Decreases in this pattern are worked as an invisible decrease in the following manner – Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook. Working a decrease in this way helps reduce appearance of holes that can be made when working a decrease the normal way.
Pattern Notes
Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice at tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
Working in the round: This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified), in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Pattern
Large Pumpkin Body
Rnd 1: With A; working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 12sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc] around. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1dc in next 2sts, 2dc] around. 24sts
Rnd 5: [1dc in next 3sts, 2dc] around. 30sts
Rnd 6: [1dc in next 4sts, 2dc] around. 36sts
Rnd 7: [1dc in next 5sts, 2dc] around. 42sts
Rnd 8: [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around. 48sts
Rnd 9: [1dc in next 7sts, 2dc] around. 54sts
Rnd 10: [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around. 60sts
Rnd 11: [1dc in next 9sts, 2dc] around. 66sts
Rnd 12: 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 10sts, 2dc] around until the last 5sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 72sts
Rnds 13-27: Dc around
Rnd 28: [1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog] around. 66sts
Rnd 29: [1dc in next 9sts, dc2tog] around. 60sts
Rnd 30: [1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog] around. 54sts
Rnd 31: [1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog] around. 48sts
Rnd 32: [1dc in next 6sts, dc2tog] around. 42sts
Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go.
Rnd 33: [1dc in next 5sts, dc2tog] around. 36sts
Rnd 34: [1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog] around. 30sts
Rnd 35: [1dc in next 3sts, dc2tog] around. 24sts
Rnd 36: [1dc in next 2sts, dc2tog] around. 18sts
Rnd 37: [1dc, dc2tog] around. 12sts
Rnd 38: [Dc2tog] around. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.
Large Pumpkin Stalk
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts
Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around
Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Large Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 12sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Medium Pumpkin Body
Rnds 1 – 9: With B; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 54sts
Rnd 10: 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 8sts, 2dc] around until the last 4sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 60sts
Rnds 11-23: Dc around
Rnds 24 – 32: Repeat rows 30 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts. Do not completely fasten off; leave a long yarn tail at least 2 arms length for making up the pumpkin.
Medium Pumpkin Stalk
Rnd 1: With D; working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5sts
Rnd 2: [2dc] around. 10sts
Rnd 3: Working BLO; Dc around
Rnds 4 – 6: Dc around
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Medium Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnds 1 – 2: With D; make as Pumpkin Body. 10sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Small Pumpkin Body
Rnds 1 – 7: With C; make as Large Pumpkin Body. 42sts
Rnd 8: 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc, then [1dc in next 6sts, 2dc] around until the last 3sts, 1dc in each remaining st. 48sts
Rnds 9-19: Dc around
Rnds 20 – 26: Repeat rows 32 – 38 of the Large Pumpkin Body. 6sts
Fasten off and using the last 6 sts to sew up the remaining sts
Small Pumpkin Stalk
Rnds 1 – 5: With D; make as the Medium Pumpkin Stalk
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Stuff the stalk
Small Pumpkin Stalk bottom
Rnd 1: With D; ; working into a magic ring, 8dc. 8sts
Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for sewing to the pumpkin.
Making up
For each pumpkin:
1. Take the length of yarn tail, and wrap your yarn around your pumpkin twice; taking it through the centre of the pumpkin and pulling it taught to shape your pumpkin into segments, tie in a secure knot at the top.
2. Repeat step 1 twice more in equal segments (creating six segments in total).
3. Sew the stalk bottom onto the bottom of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the bottom.
4. Sew the stem onto the top of your pumpkin using it to cover up where the yarn for your segments cross at the top.
And that’s it! Enjoy your gourd-eous pumpkins!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
And if you haven’t had enough of pumpkins yet then you might like my Chunky Pumpkins that I made for my Deramores Designer Shop last year. They are made in a totally different way, with a different stitch using chunky yarn and a bigger hook so you’d get to try something new!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Okay, not to alarm anyone but there are only 95 days now until Christmas – and in crafting circles it potentially becomes that time to crochet faster!
I personally ADORE crocheting Christmas ornaments and decorations, it’s one of my favourite seasons and I think it’s a lovely way to begin to get into the festive spirit. Plus they also make fab little gifts – and I’ve got just such a pattern in the latest issue of Crochet Now magazine.
A little, scandi style, Pretty Poinsettia Gnome! Adorned with a traditional wintry flower, I think this little gnome would make the perfect stocking filler for your loved ones this Christmas.
I used Ricorumi DK for my gnome which is a favourite yarn of mine to use for amigurumi. If you are not familiar with this yarn it is a DK weight 100% cotton, specially developed for crocheting cute amigurumi characters. It comes in cute 25g (57.5m) balls which makes it perfect for little amigurumi projects such as this one.
If you were looking for some for your stash Deramores currently has a special offer on for 5% discount if you buy 5 balls, 10% discount if you buy 10 balls – and as it’s only £0.99p per ball it’s not going to break the bank. And there’s also a special offer to September (until 26 Sept) for £5 off when you spend £30+ with the code 5tash with free shipping on orders of over £28.
Traditionally gnomes are known as symbols of good luck, dating back to when gnomes were believed to be household spirits responsible for the care and prosperity of the family, so a great addition to your house. My finished gnome is 20cm tall (from tip of the hat to the bottom) so perfect as a little ornament for a shelf or desk during the holiday season.
I honestly had so much fun creating this little guy that I’m thinking that he might need some seasonal buddies; for Spring, Summer and Autumn! So watch this space…
Issue 73 of Crochet Now magazine is packed with 41 seasonal patterns that you’ll love in a 100 page magazine – you can just see my little gnome on the bottom of the front cover (so exciting!).
It’s available to buy from your local supermarket and some newsagents or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines
If you hook up the Poinsettia Gnome I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
We have now reached the finale of our four week crochet-along. We can now see in our sights the end of the harvest as we draw into September and we can enjoy a final crochet community celebration as we finish our Lammas Day shawls.
Although we are on the last part of our CAL, if you are joining in at a later date you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page where all the CAL posts are one place. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link below).
This week we will continue our decreases as we till the earth by harrowing and ploughing the fields we have sown, and gather together in the abundance of the harvest. We will have a bit of crochet heritage with the familiar treble cluster (as seen in a traditional granny square) and think of our cluster of stitches as also representing a time where every available man, woman and child, was needed to get the crops in.
Lammas Day CAL: Part 4 – Bringing in the Wheat
Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)
The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl
5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E
Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.
Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size:
If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.
The pattern below is in UK Terms:
ABBREVIATIONS
RS Right Side
cm Centimetre
ch Chain
sp Space
st(s) Stitch(es)
STITCH GUIDANCE
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Spike Stitch(SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below; yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly
CHART STITCH LEGEND
PATTERN – PART 3
Attach YARN A to the top of the firstst of row 97 worked of part 2;
Notes:
The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;
Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 3;
Row 134: (RS): Starting with a decrease;Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 59sts
Row 135: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 58sts
Row 136: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 57sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;
Row 137: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eleven more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 56sts
Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 140: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 53sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;
Row 143: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat ten more times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 50sts
Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 146: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat nine more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 47sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;
Row 149: Ch1, 1htr in the next 2st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eight more times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 44sts
Fasten off YARN E and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 152: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times across the row, 1htr in the last 4sts, turn. 41sts
Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:
Attach YARN E to the top of the last st worked;
The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern. The ch4 in the pattern counts as a dtr;
Row 155: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, miss next st, (3dtr in the next st, miss 2sts) repeat nine more times across the row, 3dtr in the next st, miss the next st, 1dtr in the next st, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 38sts
Row 156: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp before the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 37sts
Row 157: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp before the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat ten more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 36sts
Row 158: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 3tr in the last st, turn. 35sts
Row 159: Ch4, 1dtr in the next st, (3dtr in the sp between the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, 1dtr in the last st, turn. 34sts
Row 160: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp after the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, 1tr in the last st, turn. 33sts
Row 161: Ch4, (3dtr in the sp after the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat nine more times across the row, dtr2tog, turn. 32sts
Row 162: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (3tr in the sp between the 3dtr’s of the previous row) repeat eight more times across the row, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 31sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends
Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 163: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 30sts
Row 164: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 29sts
Rows 165 – 189: Repeat rows 163 – 164, turn. 4sts
Row 190: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next st, turn. 3sts
Row 191: Ch1, dc3tog. 1st
Fasten off with a sl st, weave in all ends.
Video Tutorial:
Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …
The design of this wrap will benefit from being wet blocked;
Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board
Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g. check the height and width are correct)
Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.
If you were wondering what I use to block my shawls I use this simple foam playmats to pin my shawls down, I swear by these Knitpro blockers and I also use these T-pins for lacy bits and corner points.
Written Pattern Link:
Now that we are on the last part of the CAL a PDF document of the pattern has been put together by Anchor Yarns which you can find as a free download on their website here.
And that’s it!
Your shawl is now finished! Maybe to celebrate you can go break bread somewhere nice wearing your new shawl.
Support:
You can still get support if needed via the following links:
The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!
You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – I can’t wait to see your finished shawls.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Edited: Correction made to row 119 (7 October 2021)
Can you believe it’s nearly the end of August? I suppose the summer can be a busy time which makes the weeks fly by, and it means it’s time for Week 3 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.
During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).
I hope you are ready to start Part 3 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and start to watch our spikes of wheat become heavy with their ears of grain.
Lammas Day CAL: Part 3 – Bringing in the Wheat
Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)
The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl
5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E
Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.
Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size:
If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.
The pattern below is in UK Terms:
ABBREVIATIONS
RS Right Side
cm Centimetre
ch Chain
sp Space
st(s) Stitch(es)
STITCH GUIDANCE
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Spike Stitch(SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below; yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
Grain St (Grst): [1 puff st, ch3, 1 puff st] in the same stitch
Puff St: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop) once more. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook. Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch (the ch1 does not count in the st count).
PATTERN NOTES
This pattern is for a triangular shawl that will now decrease with each row; decreases are made on one side only.
Add a stitch marker on the decrease side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark decrease side.
You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
Check st counts at the end of each row to keep on track
Keep any turning ch’s on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly
CHART STITCH LEGEND
PATTERN – PART 3
Attach YARN A to the top of the firstst of row 97 worked of part 2;
Notes:
The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row;
Row 98: (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the same st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 95sts
Row 99: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 94sts
Row 100: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st across, turn. 93sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;
Row 101: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 92sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 104: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 89sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;
Row 107: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 3sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 86sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 110: Ch1, 1htr in the next st, htr2tog, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 83sts
Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;
Row 113: Ch1, 1htr in the next 4st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 5sts, htr2tog, 1htr in the last st, turn. 80sts
Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;
Row 116: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, htr2tog, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last 2sts, turn. 77sts
Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:
Attach YARN D to the top of the last st worked;
The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating five row stitch pattern;
Note: In the pattern where it says to work into the next ch3-sp, this is the space in the middle of the Grst
Row 119 (WS): Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (9 Grsts, 29tr)
Row 120: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (9 Grsts, 28tr)
Row 121: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, Grst in the ch3-sp once more, tr2tog, turn. (9 Grsts, 27tr)
Row 122: Ch1, tr2tog, 4tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 71sts
Row 123: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 70sts
Row 124: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (Grst, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 29tr)
Row 125: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat seven more times across the row, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (8 Grsts, 28tr)
Row 126: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (8 Grsts, 27tr)
Row 127: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the next 1tr’s of the previous row, tr2tog. 1tr in the last st, turn. 66sts
Row 128: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in each st across the row, turn. 65sts
Row 129: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (miss 2sts, Grst, miss 2sts, 1tr in the next 3sts) repeat six more times across the row, 1tr in the next 4sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. (7 Grsts, 29tr)
Row 130: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 6sts, (Grst, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, Grst once more, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. (7 Grsts, 28tr)
Row 131: Ch1, 1tr in the next 2sts, (Grst in the ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat six more times across the row,1tr in the next 2sts, tr2tog,1tr in the last st, turn. (6 Grsts, 27tr)
Row 132: Ch1, 1tr in the next st, tr2tog, 1tr in the next 4sts, (5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the 3tr’s of the previous row) repeat five more times across the row, 5tr on top of the next ch3-sp, 1tr on top of the last 2tr’s of the previous row, turn. 61sts
Row 133: Ch1, 1tr in each st along until the last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr in the last st, turn. 60sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:
Video Tutorial:
Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …
And that’s it! Part 3 completed! We will be continuing with our decreases next week to finish off our shawl.
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!
You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Looking for a quick, easy and useful crochet project? Well I’m delighted to say that I’ve got another free pattern for you today, in collaboration with the lovely folks at Anchor Yarns, that might just be what you are looking for.
I’m a bit of a sucker for a crochet basket, I love them, so when I got the opportunity to play with some Anchor Creativa 8ply Cotton I knew the yarn was destined to become a basket idea I’d been thinking of.
I really wanted to make a couple of baskets that were a different shape from the usual round baskets you see, I wanted to make at least two baskets, and I also wanted them to nest inside each other. The idea came from a sort of square box type basket that I’d seen made from fabric that I thought might make a good shape to try and recreate in crochet.
The finished result were the ‘Tuck Baskets’ named for two reasons; because they have a little tuck at the side to help them stand up and be more sturdy and because they can tuck inside each other.
For my baskets I used Creativa 8ply which is a yarn that I’d not had the opportunity to use before, though I’ve used the Creativa Fino 4ply for lots of different projects. The 8ply is the 4plys bigger sister; it’s quite a chunky DK with the same vibrant colour palette which makes it a great choice for home décor items. It’s a 100% cotton natural fibre, that’s soft and silky, that comes in a 50g / 70m.
I used 4mm hook (US size G/6), and 3 different colours (shades 4620008-00391 / Teal, Shade 4620008-00258 / Raspberry, Shade 4620008-00105 / Cream) to create these fun little baskets.
I enjoyed making them in the contrast colours of the Raspberry and Teal and then I used the Cream to tie them together. As I also love wooden buttons I included some 15mm ones in the finished aesthetic for each side which I think worked out quite nicely.
Square and cute these tuck baskets are perfect for displaying on your bookcase or cabinets to tidy away those small items that don’t have a designated space!
The Creativa Tuck Basket pattern is a free download available directly from the Anchor Crafts website here where you can just download the pattern or register for an account. It doesn’t cost anything for an account, but by signing up you’ll gain access to loads of other free patterns by other talented designers too.
Make them to match your house decor, or maybe gift as a cute house warming gift, there are so many possibilities – the choices are all yours!
The pattern is written in UK crochet terminology and I’ve linked it up on Ravelry too if you’d like to save it to your favourites on there (at the link below).
Super simple to make and so practical; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches – though I’ve also included a chart to the pattern for that extra helping hand.
If you hook up the Tuck Baskets I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
A few months ago I was asked by the lovely folks at Crochet Now magazine if I’d to create some fun amigurumi’s to accompany a stitch marker set that they were giving away with Issue 71.
The cute stitch marker set was based around a coffee house theme; there was a mini cup of coffee, a little donut and an tiny ice-cream with cute little smiley faces. I couldn’t resist such a fun project!
I used Paintbox Cotton DK for the characters which, if you are not familiar with, is a DK weight 100% Cotton which comes in 50g (125m) balls so there is a lot of yarn to play with. I used 1 ball in Light Caramel (409), 1 ball in Bubblegum Pink (451), 1 ball in Spearmint Green (426), 1 ball in Paper White (401) and 1 ball in the aptly named Coffee Bean (411) to make all the characters – and I still had yarn left over.
The suggested hook size for the yarn is a 4mm but I used a 3mm as I like to go down a couple of hook sizes for my amigurumi sometimes to get a tighter gauge (and to prevent holes which stuffing could come out of!).
I think I did quite a good job of colour matching to the stitch marker set, but luckily Paintbox Cotton DK comes in 56 different colours so I had plenty of choice. It also makes it a great yarn for amigurumi making, in fact I’ve used it a few times on different patterns.
And if you on the look out for some more cotton yarn for your stash LoveCrafts have actually got their July Sale on right now, up to 70% off knitting and crochet yarns on purchases until the end of July – you’re welcome!
The finished characters end up from 17cm tall (for the ice-cream), 12cm (for the coffee cup) and 9cm diameter for the iced donut, so perfect little mascot or desk top height.
I used some pieces of felt and my trusty glue gun for some elements of the faces and embroidered on the other details to finish them off with the right look and I was really pleased with how cute they turned out.
Issue 71 of Crochet Now magazine is packed with 39 summer patterns that you’ll love in a 100 page magazine, and it comes with the exclusive stitch marker bracelet set with the 3 super-cute original café-inspired stitch markers!
It’s available to buy from your local supermarket and some newsagents or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines
If you hook up the Kawaii Coffee House Characters I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I was delighted to be asked recently, by Simply Crochet magazine, if I wanted to talk about the very first piece of crochet that I’d ever done for their regular Hooky Treasures back page feature.
If you have Issue 112 and you turn to the back page you will see some photos of the first thing I crocheted, from start to finish, just over ten years ago!
I was extremely exciting to be asked to do this feature and it feels like quite an achievement as a designer (as I still suffer from imposter syndrome at times! 🙈) and although I’m usually more comfortable behind the camera than in front of it, I was happy to send in a photo on this occasion.
The Hooky Treasures page is where a designer talks about one of their favourite projects they’ve made and the story behind it. It has to be something very personal, like the first thing you made, or the thing that gave you confidence to be a designer, or just something made for a special person in your life.
I decided I had to choose the Filet Bunny Blanket I made when I was pregnant with my daughter, it is most definitely the thing that, if you’ll excuse the pun, got me hooked on crochet and which eventually lead to my designing crochet patterns of my own.
This project is quite precious to me, not only because I still remember how proud I was when I finally finished it, but because it wrapped up both of my daughters – and it’s still going strong to this day! Who knows; it may one day wrap up my grandchildren – what an amazing thought!
I also have many wonderful memories of working on this blanket with my mum’s help. What was particularly lovely was the magazine arrived on my doorstep on a day when she was visiting so I proudly got to show her the feature.
I’m not going to tell you what I said in the article, you might wish to read that yourself, but I thought you might enjoying seeing a few more photos of my first make.
I’d love to hear more about your first makes; do you still use or have your oldest crochet item? What was it and how old is it? Let me know in the comments below.
Issue 118 of Simply Crochet magazine is available to buy from your local supermarket or you can grab a digital or print subscription from buysubscriptions.com.
And if you are interested in making the filet bunny blanket yourself it’s still available as a free download from Yarnspirations.com here.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Hey folks, hope you are well in your part of the world. I’ve got a lovely free-bee for you to enjoy today! Allow me to introduce the Bee-utiful Clutch bag – a small bag with big textured personality!
The bag uses a stitch that I’ve used before; on the Bee Keeper block in the Stitch Story CAL. At the time I thought the stitch pattern was so effective with creating such a beautiful texture that knew I wanted to use it again.
Fast forward three years or so to when I came across some yellow Anchor Creativa Fino in my stash. The stitch idea reignited itself as I thought I would make the bee themed clutch bag idea I’d got rumbling around in my head.
Super simple to make and with many practical uses for a clutch bag or makeup bag; this pattern is perfect for beginners, as it only uses simple stitches. I used some bee fabric to line mine, to finish off the inside, but with this stitch pattern you could probably get away with not lining it if you aren’t a fan of sewing.
The following Bee-utiful Clutch Bag is free here on the blog or you can make a beeline for the pattern in your favourite pattern stores where you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).
The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Bee-utiful Clutch Bag
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 100g of Yellow
Yarn used: Anchor Creativa Fino used in photos;
(Shade: #00306)
About the yarn: 4ply / Fingering Weight; 125m per 50g ball, 100% Cotton
Hook Size: 3mm (US size D/3)
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
· 2cm (0.8”) Button
· Optional: Facing and material for lining your bag
Finished Size: 19cm (7.4 inches) wide x 12cm (4.7 inches) high
Gauge: 6sts = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st
PATTERN
Main Body of Clutch:
Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on.
Tip 2:You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)
Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.
Row 2 (WS) : Ch1 *5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 3: (RS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 htr then 5 sl st in 5sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 4: (WS) Ch1, * 5 htr in 5 sl st then 5 sl st in 5 htr * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 5: Ch1, 5 sl st in 5 htr then 5htr in 5 sl st * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.
Row 6-52: Repeat rows 2-5 thirteen times
From this point onwards you will begin shaping the clutch flap;
Row 53: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 46sts, dc2tog, turn. 48sts
Row 54: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 44sts, dc2tog, turn. 46sts
Row 55: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 42sts, dc2tog, turn. 44sts
Rows 57 – 71: Continue decreasing on each end until you have 14sts left.
Row 72: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, ch4, miss 4sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 12sts
Row 73: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 3sts, 1dc in each of the ch4 sts, 1dc in 3sts, dc2tog, turn. 10sts
Row 74: Ch1; dc2tog, 1dc in 6sts, dc2tog, turn, fasten off and weave in ends. 8sts
MAKING UP:
· Fold the bag in half, leaving the gap at the top open with the flap. and seam both sides together on the wrong side.
· Turn your bag right side round and add your button to the body of the bag opposite the open button hole
· Optional: create a lining for your bag
And that’s it! Get ready for taking it out and about and bee-witching all who see your bee-utiful new clutch bag.
If you hook up the Bee-utiful Clutch Bag I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtags #kcacouk and #proud2craft or #anchoryarns (so the folks at Anchor Yarns can see) or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
