Deramores | Free Amigurumi Poodle Pattern

Guess what! I’ve got double exciting news to tell you all! The first is that I’ve partnered up with fabbo yarn house Deramores and we’ve got some fun amigurumi patterns coming this way! Today I’d like to introduce you to the first one – here’s Poppy the Poodle!

© Deramores Retail Ltd

If you are a toy knitter then you may have already come across the classic knitted Dera-Dog family by designer Amanda Berry. Deramores asked me if I’d like to have a go at creating a crochet version of the Deradogs for them and of course I jumped at the chance of such an exciting challenge.

It was an interesting challenge as knitted toys are totally different from crocheted toys. Most knitted toys are worked flat and then seamed together which is totally different from working in rounds like you do when you work in the usual amigurumi style. Both crafts create different textures and different shapes which was something I had to consider before I started.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

It was important to me to try and capture the essence of the classic knitted Dera-dog but to also make the crocheted version my own. It also hopefully shows that crochet is just as versatile (if not more so in my opinion) to create great shapes that can become terrific little characters.

For Poppy I used Deramores Studio Anti-Piling DK which is a 100% acrylic yarn that is super soft and has been developed with anti-pilling technology. In a nutshell this just means that any fabric you make with this yarn, whether it’s a garment or a toy, should avoid going bobbly or thinner over time.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

It was my first time using this yarn, and I think the first time I’ve used an anti-piling yarn, and I have to say I LOVE it! It really is just nice to work with; very soft on the fingers and it comes in 48 different shades so there’s a nice variety to choose from – I’m definitely going to be using it in future projects.

And now I’m going to share with you the second bit of exciting news! You can get Poppy the Poodle pattern for FREE right now in my very own Deramores Designer Shop!

© Deramores Retail Ltd

I’m so excited to say that I’ve joined a wonderful group of knit and crochet designers from across the globe who have shared some of there favourite patterns via a Deramores Designer Shop.

The great thing about the designer shops with Deramores is that you can choose whether you just want the pattern, or if you want the pattern + yarn! Cool right? Takes away the chore of sorting out buying stuff as you can just get what you need to get started on your next project.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

Deramores have shops for the US and Australia as well as the UK which you can check out and add to your favourites at the links below:

If you want to you can also add Poppy to your favourites or save her for later on Ravelry too as they are all linked up.

SAVE POPPY THE POODLE ON RAVELRY HERE

The shop is brand new so will be growing all the time so be sure to check back occasionally to see what’s new – though of course I’ll let you know if I add anything new here on the blog too (so if you haven’t already you might want to subscribe to the blog so you get all the news).

If you hook up Poppy the Poodle I hope you’ll tag kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern |Mini Tapestry Christmas Tree Decorations

I love making Christmas decorations so when I got to try some Creativa Fino from Anchor Crafts (review of which you can read here) and as it’s December that’s what I decided to make.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-02

You can scroll down to the written patterns and the charts for the Christmas Wreath and Christmas Tree mini tapestry pillow tree decorations below, but if you are new to tapestry crochet you might want have a look at my mini tapestry crochet tutorial first.

Mini Tapestry Crochet Christmas Tree Decorations:

Materials:

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2

1 x 10g Anchor Creativa

  • Blue (Shade 00269)
  • Green (Shade 00418)
  • Brown (Shade 00257)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 2.5mm (US size C/2)

You will also need:

  • 1 x Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton (232)
  • A yarn needle
  • 1 x Small red bow
  • 8 x Small Red / 8 x Small Silver Beads
  • 1 x Small Star or Snowflake button
  • Small amount of polyester toy filler

Gauge: 5dc = 2cm (0.78inches)

Finished Size:  7 x 7cm (2.75 x 2.75 inches)

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • cc = change colour (see guidance for details)

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Changing Colour:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

Tapestry Crochet:

When changing to and from a colour carry the  unused coloured yarn along with you and crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along, when turning carry your yarn up the side of your work to use on the next row.

Surface Crochet:

Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work,  insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way  according to the design.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-03

Christmas Wreath (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the  beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Rowd 6-8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 3

Row 12: Repeat row 2 – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

  • Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • With Green surface crochet around the outside of the wreath shape.
  • On one side of the wreath shape sew a small red bow and eight red beads around the wreath – see photo above for more details.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-04

Christmas Tree (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Rows 2-3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn

Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 9sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Rows 7 – 8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Rows 9 – 10: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • With Green / Brown surface crochet around the outside of the tree shape.
  • On one side of the tree shape sew small star or snowflake button at the top and eight silver beads for baubles on the tree – see photo for more details.

Finishing:

  1. Place both wreaths / Christmas tree pieces  together, attach blue yarn through both pieces and neatly work 1dc/sc along each edge with 5dc/sc in each corner. Stuff as you go. Fasten off and weave in ends
  2. With Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton Ch30, fasten off but leave long yarn tail.
  3. Attach to the top centre of each pillow decoration as the hanging loop.

Charts:

Christmas-Wreath-Chart

Christmas-Tree-Chart

I hope you will join me in hooking up some little pillow decorations, they are really fun to make! I hope you’ll tag me on social media or link any projects to Ravelry so I can see – I love to see what you make.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial

So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen my review of Anchor Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor crafts kindly sent me to try.  I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row. 

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

Anchor-TUT01

Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

Anchor-TUT02C

Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

Anchor-TUT03

Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

Anchor-TUT04

Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

ANCHOR-TUT05

Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

Anchor-Tut06

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are often  two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

Anchor-Tapestry-Crochet-03

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorial  chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Anchor | Creativa Fino Yarn Review

I had a lovely email recently from Anchor Yarns to see if I would like to review some of their yarn. I’d heard of Anchor crafts through their embroidery threads but I must confess that I hadn’t realised that they also had a range of cottons suitable for crochet.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-03

I enjoy doing the research into yarn companies because they often come from such a rich heritage! And Anchor crafts are no different; the brand can trace back it’s history all the way to 1866 originating in Scotland. As years passed the manufacture of Anchor threads moved from Scotland then to Germany and today, the Anchor brand in Europe is manufactured by Mezcrafts in Hungary.

As well as supply yarn they also seem to have a great ethos as a company; they mention on their website that they are continuously building and improving their ecological footprint by looking to reduce CO2 emissions, have minimal textile waste and through low water consumption. All good stuff! 

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-02

Anchor offer a wide variety of yarns of different thicknesses and compositions suitable for many craft techniques but for crochet they sent me some of their Anchor Creativa to play with.

So let’s check out the yarn’s vital statistics we: 

  • Weight:  4ply / Fingering Weight (2)
  • Blend: 100% Cotton
  • Yarn Ball Weight: 50g
  • Yarn Ball Length: 125m
  • Wash instructions: Machine Wash 40°C
  • Price: £1.90 (at the time of this post)

It’s available in a whopping 72 solid shades in 4ply (and in 8ply) but I was sent a nice selection of six different colours to play with.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-01

It’s really nice yarn to use, it’s very smooth, not rough to work with and as a cotton is great for home decor items and wearables as it’s machine washable – ideal for easy care! The recommended hook size is 2.5mm (US size C/2) which I found to be spot on for me, and I had fun trying out a couple of ideas, but I’ll share a little sneaky peek of the first idea I came up with now…

As it’s Christmas and I love making Christmas decorations I had the idea to make some little Christmas pillow decorations for the tree.  They are a great beginners project to tapestry crochet (of which I’ll share a bit of a photo tutorial), they are quick to make (easily finished in an evening) and so make a fabulous little project for either you or as a seasonal gift for a friend.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

Check back tomorrow for the pattern and tapestry charts for both the Christmas tree and the wreath Christmas crochet decorations.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Rascal the Raccoon

Rascal-Collage

So you already for the free pattern I mentioned yesterday? Rascal the Raccoon is a fun loving curious little fellow that occasionally get’s into mischief! From sneaking through the forest to exploring your shelves he’s always looking for new places to investigate.

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available on Ravelry where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 6 page PDF pattern free of advertisements.

Rascal-the-Raccoon+Text

I used Marriners DK Cotton for this pattern, if you’d like to learn more about that yarn then you can more  read my yarn review here or just scroll straight down to the pattern below.

Rascal the Raccoon Amigurumi

Materials:

Yarn:

Marriner Mercerised DK Cotton (100g / 201m) used in photos :

  • 1 x 65g (130m) Cyclamen
  • 1 x 5g (10m) Violet
  • 1 x 5g (10m) White

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size 5/0)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • 2 x 6mm black safety eyes
  • 1 x black cat nose

Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm (1inch). Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project.

Finished Size:

  • 18cm high (7inches) x 20cm (8inches) from feet to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US double crochet 2 together
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble crochet / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble crochet / US double crochet
  • P = Picot Stitch
  • BLO = working through the back loop only
  • ( ) = Work any sts in brackets into one st

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • Invisible UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Double Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog): Insert hook in the front loops only of the sts indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in the front loop of the next st, draw up a loop (three loops on hook) draw through all loops on hook.
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Picot (P): Ch-3, insert hook back into the center of the base st you’ve just worked, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
  • Back loop only (BLO): Insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop of your stitch then continue as indicated in your pattern.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked without joining in   continuous rnds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Head:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 7: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 9: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 10: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 13: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 14: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next 3sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for sewing onto the body. (12sts).

Eye Patches (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) OR ch-4 then sl st to join to form a ring to start. Work 6dc/sc into the ring, do not tighten middle ring as you will later thread the stalk of your safety eye through the centre of this ring (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off white. (12sts).

Rnd 3: Attach Violet with a sl st to BLO of any st; * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next st,  2dc/sc in the last st (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2tr/dc in the next, P, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, but leave a long yarn tail to attach eye patches to the head (24sts).

Eye Stripe: 

Row 1: With Violet ch7; sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 3sts. Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts)

Ears (Make 2):

Ears should not be stuffed.

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 3dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (3sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts).

Nose:

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Add safety nose to the middle of rnd 1, stuff nose.

Body:

Rnds 1-6: With Cyclamen work as as head (36sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (48sts).

Rnds 9-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnds 13-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnds 16-17: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 19-20: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 22: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 23: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Start to stuff; then continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 24: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 25: * dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Fasten off and sew up the remaining six stitches

Neatly dc/sc around whole outer edge of the  tummy patch.

Fasten off with a sl st to the first st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Feet and Legs (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts)

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts)

Rnds 7-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Stuff legs

Tail:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts)

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts)

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnds 6: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (16sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (20sts)

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends  (24sts).

Rnd 9: Attach Violet to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 10-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends.

Rnds 12-14: With Cyclamen repeat rnds 9-11

Rnd 15: With Violet repeat rnd 9

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 18: Attach Cyclamen to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 19-21: 1dc/sc in each st around until end. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body. Stuff tail.

Making up:

  • Pin eye patches into place on head starting on rnd 7. Eye patches should be touching each other.
  • Push the safety eyes through the middle of the eye patches and the head and secure.
  • Sew eye patches into place
  • Sew centre head stripe into place next to eye patches
  • Attach nose to head just below eyes
  • Attach ears to either side of head on rnds 4-6 at least 6 sts apart
  • Attach tummy panel to front of body
  • Attach head to top of body
  • Attach arms on either side of the body
  • Attach legs to the front of the body on rnds 11-15 at least 6sts apart
  • Pin tail to back of raccoon to check balance, then sew into place.

If you like this pattern and you are on Ravelry I’d really appreciate a “favourite” (just click the pink heart button on the top right hand side of the listing). 

And if you hook up Rascal the Raccoon please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see what you make! 

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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A Splash of Neon | Free Zig Zag Zing Crochet Cushion Pattern

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Do not adjust your computer screens we are going bright, bright, bright!!

Lovecrochet.com often put together themes for collections and you may remember that I took part in their Coastal Adventures Anthology in June last year with my Pembroke Shawl.  For their first collection for 2018 lovecrochet.com decided they wanted to go bold and bright with a Splash of Neon

Now neon obviously works great for signs and lights in the real-world but used in yarn…hhmmm you say….I can hear you aren’t convinced…but wait, by the end of this post you’ll want to add neon to everything (possibly)!

Now I’ll confess neon is something I’ve never included in a design before and so when the call came out for neon inspired designs, using Paintbox Yarns, I knew I had to take up the challenge!

If you aren’t familiar with Paintbox Yarns they are a practical (machine washable) high quality premium acrylic and cotton yarn available in various weights. For premium yarn it’s really soft and super lovely to hook up a project with and the range comes in over 60 shades in a modern colour palette which, for any crafter, is fabulous to see. It’s also great value and lovecrochet.com often run Paintbox Yarn sales which you can keep up with by signing up to their newsletter. 

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You might think that neon colours would be tough to use without clashing and that they are too loud and brassy. Scary combinations for crochet right? Well when carefully implemented I’ve learnt that they can be a super fun addition to a project. Take a look at the the eight designs that make up the Splash of Neon collection for instance. Aren’t they all fab! Can you guess which is my make?

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Did you guess the cushion with the pink pom-poms? Well you’re right!

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I’m really excited to now reveal my new Zig Zag Zing cushion!! 

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Now you can express your creativity by adding the bright on-trend zing of neon to your home in a fun, not scary, way.

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The Zig-Zag Zing Cushion is perfect either on its own or coordinated with other cushions and is a great way to bring a pop of colour to any living room or bedroom.

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This free crochet pattern is very straightforward pattern so that it can be readily picked up by beginners. There are written instructions, a chart and I’ve also included instructions for adding a zip opening for a clean look and easy care.

So have I changed your mind a bit about neon? I hope so! I can’t wait to see your finished neon projects. Why not start with my Zig Zag Zing cushion cover which you can get a free copy of right now on Lovecrochet.com

Until next time – keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf | FREE Crochet Pattern

So today’s post links onto my last post which was a yarn review of Patons Tahiti Yarn (which you can read about here). As promised I’ve got a brand new pattern for you, just perfect for the sunny weather. 

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You might not think a scarf to be your typical summer accessory but my new Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf, made in lightweight breathable cotton yarn, is one of the most versatile accessories that you can add to your wardrobe this year.

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The perfect length for a carefree look; wrapped around your neck with the loose ends hanging down in front. Or why not tie it in a bow and combine with blouses or dresses – so many options for both formal and informal occasions. The Tahiti skinny scarf provides a unique way to enhance the look of a simple outfit and add effortless style to pretty much anything you wear!

Add the Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue where you can also get an no-ad PDF version of just the pattern for only £1.00 / $1.25 or for a print friendly of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button. 

Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf:

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Yarn:  3ply / Light Fingering Yarn

  • 50g / 280m / 306yds

Hook: 2 mm / US size B-1

Size: 183cm long x 5cm wide / 72” long x 2” wide

Gauge: 

Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet

See stitch guidance below for following abbreviation clarification:

  • 2-1-2-tr/dc shell
  • V-Stitch

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • 2-1-2-tr/dc shell: Work 2 tr/dc, 1ch, 2 tr/dc in indicated st or ch sp.
  • V-Stitch: Work tr/dc, 2ch, tr/dc in indicated st or ch sp.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 15, V-stitch in 4th ch from hook *miss next 2sts, 2-1-2-tr/dc shell in next st, miss next 2sts, * V-stitch in next st, repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn (14sts + 2 x 2ch sps and 2 x 1ch sps)

Row 2: Ch 3, *V-stitch in next ch sp, 2-1-2-tr/dc shell the next ch sp,* repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn

Row 3: Ch 3, *2-1-2-tr/dc shell the next ch sp, V-stitch in next ch sp, * repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn

Rows 4—205: Repeat rows 2-3 for the pattern, do not fasten off but move to edging.

Edging:

  • Sl st into the nearest corner, work [dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc] into the same corner area and in each corner sp.
  • Then work evenly along the length (in each ch3 and tr/dc) work dc/sc, 3ch.
  • Along each width you will work dc/sc, 3ch in each 2ch sp.

And that’s it!

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Make sure you share your finished projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryLoveCrochet.comFacebook page or Facebook groupTwitter,  Pinterest and Instagram and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Amigurumi Tin Can | FREE Crochet Pattern

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Last Friday my husband and I celebrated our 10th wedding anniversary (Yay us!). Ten years in my book is a bit of a big achievement so as a gift I splashed out and bought us both a pampering spa day with afternoon tea to look forward to later in the year (and I’m soooo looking forward to that already!) However usually on our anniversary I like to try and find something based on the traditional wedding anniversary gift list. 

Ten years is ‘tin’ and I looked around but I couldn’t find anything I thought was right. Then I had an idea! And so the following pattern was thus designed as a quirky and unique little gift to play on the ‘tin’ theme. 

My husband has a good sense of humour so he thought it was funny and I thought some of you might enjoy it too so I’ve written it up as a free pattern.

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As well as well as having the potential to become a tin full of love this amigurumi would make fun play food item for little ones – I can’t wait to see what variations you come up with!

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Add the Amigurumi Tin Can Pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue  or your LoveCrochet.com projects where you can also get an no-ad PDF version of just the pattern for only £1.00 / $1.25 or for a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button. 

Amigurumi Tin Can:

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Yarn: Small amounts of the following Drops Cotton Light used in photos:

  • YARN A – Pearl Grey (Shade 31)
  • YARN B – Turquoise (Shade 14)
  • YARN C – Black (Shade 20)
  • YARN D – Yellow (28)
  • YARN E – White (Shade 02)

Hook: 3 mm (or 3.25mm)  / US size D

Materials:

Stitch markers, yarn needle, polyester toy stuffing, 2 x circles of cardboard or polythene (7cm diameter), embroidery thread (optional), heart button (optional)

Size: 12cm high / 4.7 inches

Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm / 1inch

Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double / US single crochet
  • FLO – Front Loop Only
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Front Loop Only (FLO): Insert your hook underneath the front loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern:

Tin Lid (Make 2):

One will make the top of the tin, one will form the bottom;

Rnd 1: With YARN A make a magic ring, work 6dc/sc into ring. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 4: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 5: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 6: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 7: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 42sts

On the first lid fasten off and weave in ends, on the second lid DO NOT fasten off, continue to Tin Body.

Cut out two circles of cardboard/polythene the same size as the tin lid ready for the tin body.

Tin Body:

Working from the bottom of the tin upwards;

Rnd 8: FLO; 1dc/sc to last st. 42sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: Attach YARN B to any st, 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 10-29: 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 30: Attach YARN A to any st, 1dc/sc to last st. 42sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Place one of your circles (either cardboard or  polythene) in the bottom of the can to help keep the can lid flat / level.

Tin Label:

Note: The 1ch at the start of each row does not count as a st

Row 1: With YARN C; 9ch, 1dc/sc in second ch from hook, turn. 8sts

Row 2: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch,

1dc/sc in the next 6sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 10sts

Row 3 – 4: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 5: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 8sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 12sts

Row 6 – 7: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 8: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 10sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 14sts

Row 9 – 10: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 11: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 12sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 16sts

Row 9 – 10: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 15: Miss the first 4sts; re-attach YARN C in the next st, 1ch, 1dc/sc in the same st as beginning 1ch and in the next 5sts, turn. 6sts

Rnd 16: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 9sts

Row 17 – 18: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends

Label Edging:

Rnd 1: Attach YARN D in any st, loosely sl st around the whole of the label, work 2 extra ch’s to help turn around corners. Sl st to first st to join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 2: Attach YARN E in the BLO of any st, then loosely sl st around the whole of the label, work 2 extra ch’s to help turn around corners. Sl st to first st to join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making up:

  • Embroider the front of the can with a message or food details and add button           detailing (optional)
  • Using the BLO of Rnd 2 Label Edging attach the label to the tin body
  • Stuff the tin body with toy filler
  • Add your other (cardboard / polythene) circle onto the top of the toy filler
  • Sew the top of the tin to the top of the tin body; using the BLO of the tin lid and the FLO of the tin body. Fasten off and weave in any ends

And that’s it!

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Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, LoveCrochet.comFacebook page or Facebook groupTwitter,  Pinterest and Instagram and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Margaret’s Hug Healing Prayer Shawl | Free Crochet Chart

I think I have said before that one of the patterns I am most proud of is my Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl. Since I shared this free pattern, and the story of it’s creation, in February 2014 on Ravelry alone it has now been downloaded over 40 thousand times!

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Some of you have asked after my mother-in-law, after who the shawl was named, and I’m sorry to say that she lost her battle with cancer nearly two years ago.  Margaret was a midwife / nurse all her working life and a kinder, more caring person you couldn’t wish to meet – she is very much missed by us all everyday! But I believe her legacy lives on in the idea of this shawl; I’m sure she would love the idea of her namesake being used to support people in need.

Many of you have shared your your own projects and your own stories about making the shawl for yourselves and for others. I want to thank you all for sharing details of what has often been a challenging time for you, friends and family – and for anyone still struggling I send you much love and well wishes. 

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I have had a few people contact me to say they have had trouble making up the shawl, I did make a rather shaky video (available here) to try and help. I’ll be the first to admit it’s not the best demonstration and I will hopefully be working on making a better video as soon as I’m able! But in the interim I thought charting up the pattern for you might help. 

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The downloadable pattern has now been updated with the chart and is available for download from Ravelry and LoveCrochet.com.

This shawl will always be a free pattern so others can make a hug for someone in need; however if you would like to pass on the couple of pounds/dollars you would have paid for this pattern to Cancer Research then that would make you extremely awesome!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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LGC Knitting & Crochet Magazine | Seahorse Duo

So I’ve just finished telling you that Issue 91 of LGC Knitting & Crochet Magazine is out now with TWO brand new patterns from me – it’s all very exciting! For my next design in the magazine we are heading off under the sea! What say we dive down and join my duo of friendly seahorse amigurumis…

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Why not plunge into the crochet pool and let your hook do the swimming with some vibrant summery yarns and simple stitches in this fun sea-worthy project!

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And do you want some really exciting news!! You can get the Seahorse Duo for FREE over on topcrochetpatterns.com or why not save him to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue here to hook up later.

There are loads of options of how you could use different colours to make your own little Poseidon’s steeds – I can’t wait to see what you come up with! I hope you’ve enjoyed looking at my both my new designs, I’ve enjoyed sharing them with you!

Well until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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