Simply Crochet Magazine | Amigurumi Schnauzer Pattern

Issue 85 of Simply Crochet Magazine is out now and I’m very pleased to tell you that I’ve got a new pattern inside.

You may remember me saying a few posts ago that I’d been busy designing some new fun amigurumi’s for Deramores well today I get to introduce you to another of the Deradog pack that’s appearing in the magazine – and this one is a bit of a favourite of mine…

© Deramores Retail Ltd

It’s a little Schnauzer pupper! I love how this little doggo turned out and if you haven’t seen the cute little video that Simply Crochet have made of him (on Facebook) then you really need to check it out! I squealed when I saw it!

And I squealed again when I saw that Simply Crochet had added him on the header of their website!! Look he’s just perched on the top there! Squeek!

© Simply Crochet

This little Schnauzer turned out just how I wanted him to – and I seem to know a lot of people who have Schnauzers so I was conscious that I had to do them justice.

© Simply Crochet – Issue 85

The pattern is an exclusive to Issue 85 of Simply Crochet magazine, so only available there for now, and Deramores have put together a kit for everything you need to make him – which you can get directly from the website here.

And right now over on Facebook Simply Crochet are holding a mini competition to give this little pup a name! Just pop on over to the SCtreblemakers Facebook group where you can leave your suggested name in the comments section of the competition post.

The magazine will be picking two winning names at random who will each win the yarn pack to make the Deradog – how cool is that AND the winners will also get a £20  Deramores voucher! Names will be put up for public vote to decide the winner and the deadline for entries is 17 June 2019 (UK entrants only I’m afraid).

© Simply Crochet – Issue 85

What do you think he / or she should be called? As well as entering the competition I hope you’ll let me know in the comments below as I’d love to hear your suggestions!

SAVE THE SCHNAUZER ON RAVELRY HERE

And don’t forget to pick up your FREE copy of Poppy the Poodle deradog in my Deramores Designer Shop whilst you are over on the Deramores site!

© Deramores Retail Ltd

If you hook up the Amigurumi Schnauzer I hope you’ll tag kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Encompass Me Afghan Block

When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.

Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!

Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.

The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.

There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!

And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.

The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Encompass Me 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Schjeepjes Stonewashed XL used in photographs.

  • 20g / 30m  Moon Stone (Shade  841)            YARN A
  • 18g / 27m Green Jade (Shade 846)                YARN B
  • 43g / 65m Yellow Jasper (Shade 849)            YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • BPtr/BPdc       UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • US Double Crochet 3 together / US Double Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over,   insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.

The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).

Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat  […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)

Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat  […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Encompass Me Afghan Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Deramores | Free Amigurumi Poodle Pattern

Guess what! I’ve got double exciting news to tell you all! The first is that I’ve partnered up with fabbo yarn house Deramores and we’ve got some fun amigurumi patterns coming this way! Today I’d like to introduce you to the first one – here’s Poppy the Poodle!

© Deramores Retail Ltd

If you are a toy knitter then you may have already come across the classic knitted Dera-Dog family by designer Amanda Berry. Deramores asked me if I’d like to have a go at creating a crochet version of the Deradogs for them and of course I jumped at the chance of such an exciting challenge.

It was an interesting challenge as knitted toys are totally different from crocheted toys. Most knitted toys are worked flat and then seamed together which is totally different from working in rounds like you do when you work in the usual amigurumi style. Both crafts create different textures and different shapes which was something I had to consider before I started.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

It was important to me to try and capture the essence of the classic knitted Dera-dog but to also make the crocheted version my own. It also hopefully shows that crochet is just as versatile (if not more so in my opinion) to create great shapes that can become terrific little characters.

For Poppy I used Deramores Studio Anti-Piling DK which is a 100% acrylic yarn that is super soft and has been developed with anti-pilling technology. In a nutshell this just means that any fabric you make with this yarn, whether it’s a garment or a toy, should avoid going bobbly or thinner over time.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

It was my first time using this yarn, and I think the first time I’ve used an anti-piling yarn, and I have to say I LOVE it! It really is just nice to work with; very soft on the fingers and it comes in 48 different shades so there’s a nice variety to choose from – I’m definitely going to be using it in future projects.

And now I’m going to share with you the second bit of exciting news! You can get Poppy the Poodle pattern for FREE right now in my very own Deramores Designer Shop!

© Deramores Retail Ltd

I’m so excited to say that I’ve joined a wonderful group of knit and crochet designers from across the globe who have shared some of there favourite patterns via a Deramores Designer Shop.

The great thing about the designer shops with Deramores is that you can choose whether you just want the pattern, or if you want the pattern + yarn! Cool right? Takes away the chore of sorting out buying stuff as you can just get what you need to get started on your next project.

© Deramores Retail Ltd

Deramores have shops for the US and Australia as well as the UK which you can check out and add to your favourites at the links below:

If you want to you can also add Poppy to your favourites or save her for later on Ravelry too as they are all linked up.

SAVE POPPY THE POODLE ON RAVELRY HERE

The shop is brand new so will be growing all the time so be sure to check back occasionally to see what’s new – though of course I’ll let you know if I add anything new here on the blog too (so if you haven’t already you might want to subscribe to the blog so you get all the news).

If you hook up Poppy the Poodle I hope you’ll tag kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern |Mini Tapestry Christmas Tree Decorations

I love making Christmas decorations so when I got to try some Creativa Fino from Anchor Crafts (review of which you can read here) and as it’s December that’s what I decided to make.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-02

You can scroll down to the written patterns and the charts for the Christmas Wreath and Christmas Tree mini tapestry pillow tree decorations below, but if you are new to tapestry crochet you might want have a look at my mini tapestry crochet tutorial first.

Mini Tapestry Crochet Christmas Tree Decorations:

Materials:

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2

1 x 10g Anchor Creativa

  • Blue (Shade 00269)
  • Green (Shade 00418)
  • Brown (Shade 00257)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 2.5mm (US size C/2)

You will also need:

  • 1 x Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton (232)
  • A yarn needle
  • 1 x Small red bow
  • 8 x Small Red / 8 x Small Silver Beads
  • 1 x Small Star or Snowflake button
  • Small amount of polyester toy filler

Gauge: 5dc = 2cm (0.78inches)

Finished Size:  7 x 7cm (2.75 x 2.75 inches)

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • cc = change colour (see guidance for details)

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Changing Colour:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

Tapestry Crochet:

When changing to and from a colour carry the  unused coloured yarn along with you and crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along, when turning carry your yarn up the side of your work to use on the next row.

Surface Crochet:

Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work,  insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way  according to the design.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-03

Christmas Wreath (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the  beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Rowd 6-8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 3

Row 12: Repeat row 2 – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

  • Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • With Green surface crochet around the outside of the wreath shape.
  • On one side of the wreath shape sew a small red bow and eight red beads around the wreath – see photo above for more details.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-04

Christmas Tree (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Rows 2-3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn

Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 9sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Rows 7 – 8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Rows 9 – 10: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • With Green / Brown surface crochet around the outside of the tree shape.
  • On one side of the tree shape sew small star or snowflake button at the top and eight silver beads for baubles on the tree – see photo for more details.

Finishing:

  1. Place both wreaths / Christmas tree pieces  together, attach blue yarn through both pieces and neatly work 1dc/sc along each edge with 5dc/sc in each corner. Stuff as you go. Fasten off and weave in ends
  2. With Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton Ch30, fasten off but leave long yarn tail.
  3. Attach to the top centre of each pillow decoration as the hanging loop.

Charts:

Christmas-Wreath-Chart

Christmas-Tree-Chart

I hope you will join me in hooking up some little pillow decorations, they are really fun to make! I hope you’ll tag me on social media or link any projects to Ravelry so I can see – I love to see what you make.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial

So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen my review of Anchor Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor crafts kindly sent me to try.  I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row. 

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

Anchor-TUT01

Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

Anchor-TUT02C

Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

Anchor-TUT03

Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

Anchor-TUT04

Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

ANCHOR-TUT05

Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

Anchor-Tut06

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are often  two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

Anchor-Tapestry-Crochet-03

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorial  chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Anchor | Creativa Fino Yarn Review

I had a lovely email recently from Anchor Yarns to see if I would like to review some of their yarn. I’d heard of Anchor crafts through their embroidery threads but I must confess that I hadn’t realised that they also had a range of cottons suitable for crochet.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-03

I enjoy doing the research into yarn companies because they often come from such a rich heritage! And Anchor crafts are no different; the brand can trace back it’s history all the way to 1866 originating in Scotland. As years passed the manufacture of Anchor threads moved from Scotland then to Germany and today, the Anchor brand in Europe is manufactured by Mezcrafts in Hungary.

As well as supply yarn they also seem to have a great ethos as a company; they mention on their website that they are continuously building and improving their ecological footprint by looking to reduce CO2 emissions, have minimal textile waste and through low water consumption. All good stuff! 

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-02

Anchor offer a wide variety of yarns of different thicknesses and compositions suitable for many craft techniques but for crochet they sent me some of their Anchor Creativa to play with.

So let’s check out the yarn’s vital statistics we: 

  • Weight:  4ply / Fingering Weight (2)
  • Blend: 100% Cotton
  • Yarn Ball Weight: 50g
  • Yarn Ball Length: 125m
  • Wash instructions: Machine Wash 40°C
  • Price: £1.90 (at the time of this post)

It’s available in a whopping 72 solid shades in 4ply (and in 8ply) but I was sent a nice selection of six different colours to play with.

KCACOUK-Creativa-Fino-01

It’s really nice yarn to use, it’s very smooth, not rough to work with and as a cotton is great for home decor items and wearables as it’s machine washable – ideal for easy care! The recommended hook size is 2.5mm (US size C/2) which I found to be spot on for me, and I had fun trying out a couple of ideas, but I’ll share a little sneaky peek of the first idea I came up with now…

As it’s Christmas and I love making Christmas decorations I had the idea to make some little Christmas pillow decorations for the tree.  They are a great beginners project to tapestry crochet (of which I’ll share a bit of a photo tutorial), they are quick to make (easily finished in an evening) and so make a fabulous little project for either you or as a seasonal gift for a friend.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

Check back tomorrow for the pattern and tapestry charts for both the Christmas tree and the wreath Christmas crochet decorations.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Rascal the Raccoon

Rascal-Collage

So you already for the free pattern I mentioned yesterday? Rascal the Raccoon is a fun loving curious little fellow that occasionally get’s into mischief! From sneaking through the forest to exploring your shelves he’s always looking for new places to investigate.

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available on Ravelry where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 6 page PDF pattern free of advertisements.

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I used Marriners DK Cotton for this pattern, if you’d like to learn more about that yarn then you can more  read my yarn review here or just scroll straight down to the pattern below.

Rascal the Raccoon Amigurumi

Materials:

Yarn:

Marriner Mercerised DK Cotton (100g / 201m) used in photos :

  • 1 x 65g (130m) Cyclamen
  • 1 x 5g (10m) Violet
  • 1 x 5g (10m) White

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size 5/0)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • 2 x 6mm black safety eyes
  • 1 x black cat nose

Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm (1inch). Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project.

Finished Size:

  • 18cm high (7inches) x 20cm (8inches) from feet to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US double crochet 2 together
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble crochet / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble crochet / US double crochet
  • P = Picot Stitch
  • BLO = working through the back loop only
  • ( ) = Work any sts in brackets into one st

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • Invisible UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Double Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog): Insert hook in the front loops only of the sts indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in the front loop of the next st, draw up a loop (three loops on hook) draw through all loops on hook.
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Picot (P): Ch-3, insert hook back into the center of the base st you’ve just worked, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
  • Back loop only (BLO): Insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop of your stitch then continue as indicated in your pattern.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked without joining in   continuous rnds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Head:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 7: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 9: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 10: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 13: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 14: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next 3sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for sewing onto the body. (12sts).

Eye Patches (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) OR ch-4 then sl st to join to form a ring to start. Work 6dc/sc into the ring, do not tighten middle ring as you will later thread the stalk of your safety eye through the centre of this ring (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off white. (12sts).

Rnd 3: Attach Violet with a sl st to BLO of any st; * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next st,  2dc/sc in the last st (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2tr/dc in the next, P, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, but leave a long yarn tail to attach eye patches to the head (24sts).

Eye Stripe: 

Row 1: With Violet ch7; sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 3sts. Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts)

Ears (Make 2):

Ears should not be stuffed.

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 3dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (3sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts).

Nose:

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Add safety nose to the middle of rnd 1, stuff nose.

Body:

Rnds 1-6: With Cyclamen work as as head (36sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (48sts).

Rnds 9-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnds 13-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnds 16-17: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 19-20: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 22: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 23: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Start to stuff; then continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 24: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 25: * dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Fasten off and sew up the remaining six stitches

Neatly dc/sc around whole outer edge of the  tummy patch.

Fasten off with a sl st to the first st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Feet and Legs (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts)

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts)

Rnds 7-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Stuff legs

Tail:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts)

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts)

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnds 6: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (16sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (20sts)

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends  (24sts).

Rnd 9: Attach Violet to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 10-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends.

Rnds 12-14: With Cyclamen repeat rnds 9-11

Rnd 15: With Violet repeat rnd 9

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 18: Attach Cyclamen to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 19-21: 1dc/sc in each st around until end. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body. Stuff tail.

Making up:

  • Pin eye patches into place on head starting on rnd 7. Eye patches should be touching each other.
  • Push the safety eyes through the middle of the eye patches and the head and secure.
  • Sew eye patches into place
  • Sew centre head stripe into place next to eye patches
  • Attach nose to head just below eyes
  • Attach ears to either side of head on rnds 4-6 at least 6 sts apart
  • Attach tummy panel to front of body
  • Attach head to top of body
  • Attach arms on either side of the body
  • Attach legs to the front of the body on rnds 11-15 at least 6sts apart
  • Pin tail to back of raccoon to check balance, then sew into place.

If you like this pattern and you are on Ravelry I’d really appreciate a “favourite” (just click the pink heart button on the top right hand side of the listing). 

And if you hook up Rascal the Raccoon please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see what you make! 

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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A Splash of Neon | Free Zig Zag Zing Crochet Cushion Pattern

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Do not adjust your computer screens we are going bright, bright, bright!!

Lovecrochet.com often put together themes for collections and you may remember that I took part in their Coastal Adventures Anthology in June last year with my Pembroke Shawl.  For their first collection for 2018 lovecrochet.com decided they wanted to go bold and bright with a Splash of Neon

Now neon obviously works great for signs and lights in the real-world but used in yarn…hhmmm you say….I can hear you aren’t convinced…but wait, by the end of this post you’ll want to add neon to everything (possibly)!

Now I’ll confess neon is something I’ve never included in a design before and so when the call came out for neon inspired designs, using Paintbox Yarns, I knew I had to take up the challenge!

If you aren’t familiar with Paintbox Yarns they are a practical (machine washable) high quality premium acrylic and cotton yarn available in various weights. For premium yarn it’s really soft and super lovely to hook up a project with and the range comes in over 60 shades in a modern colour palette which, for any crafter, is fabulous to see. It’s also great value and lovecrochet.com often run Paintbox Yarn sales which you can keep up with by signing up to their newsletter. 

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You might think that neon colours would be tough to use without clashing and that they are too loud and brassy. Scary combinations for crochet right? Well when carefully implemented I’ve learnt that they can be a super fun addition to a project. Take a look at the the eight designs that make up the Splash of Neon collection for instance. Aren’t they all fab! Can you guess which is my make?

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Did you guess the cushion with the pink pom-poms? Well you’re right!

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I’m really excited to now reveal my new Zig Zag Zing cushion!! 

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Now you can express your creativity by adding the bright on-trend zing of neon to your home in a fun, not scary, way.

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The Zig-Zag Zing Cushion is perfect either on its own or coordinated with other cushions and is a great way to bring a pop of colour to any living room or bedroom.

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This free crochet pattern is very straightforward pattern so that it can be readily picked up by beginners. There are written instructions, a chart and I’ve also included instructions for adding a zip opening for a clean look and easy care.

So have I changed your mind a bit about neon? I hope so! I can’t wait to see your finished neon projects. Why not start with my Zig Zag Zing cushion cover which you can get a free copy of right now on Lovecrochet.com

Until next time – keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf | FREE Crochet Pattern

So today’s post links onto my last post which was a yarn review of Patons Tahiti Yarn (which you can read about here). As promised I’ve got a brand new pattern for you, just perfect for the sunny weather. 

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You might not think a scarf to be your typical summer accessory but my new Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf, made in lightweight breathable cotton yarn, is one of the most versatile accessories that you can add to your wardrobe this year.

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The perfect length for a carefree look; wrapped around your neck with the loose ends hanging down in front. Or why not tie it in a bow and combine with blouses or dresses – so many options for both formal and informal occasions. The Tahiti skinny scarf provides a unique way to enhance the look of a simple outfit and add effortless style to pretty much anything you wear!

Add the Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue where you can also get an no-ad PDF version of just the pattern for only £1.00 / $1.25 or for a print friendly of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button. 

Tahiti Sunset Skinny Scarf:

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Yarn:  3ply / Light Fingering Yarn

  • 50g / 280m / 306yds

Hook: 2 mm / US size B-1

Size: 183cm long x 5cm wide / 72” long x 2” wide

Gauge: 

Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet

See stitch guidance below for following abbreviation clarification:

  • 2-1-2-tr/dc shell
  • V-Stitch

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • 2-1-2-tr/dc shell: Work 2 tr/dc, 1ch, 2 tr/dc in indicated st or ch sp.
  • V-Stitch: Work tr/dc, 2ch, tr/dc in indicated st or ch sp.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 15, V-stitch in 4th ch from hook *miss next 2sts, 2-1-2-tr/dc shell in next st, miss next 2sts, * V-stitch in next st, repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn (14sts + 2 x 2ch sps and 2 x 1ch sps)

Row 2: Ch 3, *V-stitch in next ch sp, 2-1-2-tr/dc shell the next ch sp,* repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn

Row 3: Ch 3, *2-1-2-tr/dc shell the next ch sp, V-stitch in next ch sp, * repeat * to * once, tr/dc in the last st, turn

Rows 4—205: Repeat rows 2-3 for the pattern, do not fasten off but move to edging.

Edging:

  • Sl st into the nearest corner, work [dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc, 3ch, dc/sc] into the same corner area and in each corner sp.
  • Then work evenly along the length (in each ch3 and tr/dc) work dc/sc, 3ch.
  • Along each width you will work dc/sc, 3ch in each 2ch sp.

And that’s it!

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Make sure you share your finished projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryLoveCrochet.comFacebook page or Facebook groupTwitter,  Pinterest and Instagram and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Amigurumi Tin Can | FREE Crochet Pattern

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Last Friday my husband and I celebrated our 10th wedding anniversary (Yay us!). Ten years in my book is a bit of a big achievement so as a gift I splashed out and bought us both a pampering spa day with afternoon tea to look forward to later in the year (and I’m soooo looking forward to that already!) However usually on our anniversary I like to try and find something based on the traditional wedding anniversary gift list. 

Ten years is ‘tin’ and I looked around but I couldn’t find anything I thought was right. Then I had an idea! And so the following pattern was thus designed as a quirky and unique little gift to play on the ‘tin’ theme. 

My husband has a good sense of humour so he thought it was funny and I thought some of you might enjoy it too so I’ve written it up as a free pattern.

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As well as well as having the potential to become a tin full of love this amigurumi would make fun play food item for little ones – I can’t wait to see what variations you come up with!

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Add the Amigurumi Tin Can Pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue  or your LoveCrochet.com projects where you can also get an no-ad PDF version of just the pattern for only £1.00 / $1.25 or for a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button. 

Amigurumi Tin Can:

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Yarn: Small amounts of the following Drops Cotton Light used in photos:

  • YARN A – Pearl Grey (Shade 31)
  • YARN B – Turquoise (Shade 14)
  • YARN C – Black (Shade 20)
  • YARN D – Yellow (28)
  • YARN E – White (Shade 02)

Hook: 3 mm (or 3.25mm)  / US size D

Materials:

Stitch markers, yarn needle, polyester toy stuffing, 2 x circles of cardboard or polythene (7cm diameter), embroidery thread (optional), heart button (optional)

Size: 12cm high / 4.7 inches

Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm / 1inch

Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double / US single crochet
  • FLO – Front Loop Only
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Front Loop Only (FLO): Insert your hook underneath the front loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern:

Tin Lid (Make 2):

One will make the top of the tin, one will form the bottom;

Rnd 1: With YARN A make a magic ring, work 6dc/sc into ring. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 4: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 5: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 6: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 7: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 42sts

On the first lid fasten off and weave in ends, on the second lid DO NOT fasten off, continue to Tin Body.

Cut out two circles of cardboard/polythene the same size as the tin lid ready for the tin body.

Tin Body:

Working from the bottom of the tin upwards;

Rnd 8: FLO; 1dc/sc to last st. 42sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: Attach YARN B to any st, 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 10-29: 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 30: Attach YARN A to any st, 1dc/sc to last st. 42sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Place one of your circles (either cardboard or  polythene) in the bottom of the can to help keep the can lid flat / level.

Tin Label:

Note: The 1ch at the start of each row does not count as a st

Row 1: With YARN C; 9ch, 1dc/sc in second ch from hook, turn. 8sts

Row 2: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch,

1dc/sc in the next 6sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 10sts

Row 3 – 4: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 5: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 8sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 12sts

Row 6 – 7: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 8: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 10sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 14sts

Row 9 – 10: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Row 11: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 12sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 16sts

Row 9 – 10: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 15: Miss the first 4sts; re-attach YARN C in the next st, 1ch, 1dc/sc in the same st as beginning 1ch and in the next 5sts, turn. 6sts

Rnd 16: 1ch, 2dc/sc in the same ch as the 1ch, 1dc/sc in the next 5sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. turn, 9sts

Row 17 – 18: 1ch, 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off and weave in ends

Label Edging:

Rnd 1: Attach YARN D in any st, loosely sl st around the whole of the label, work 2 extra ch’s to help turn around corners. Sl st to first st to join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 2: Attach YARN E in the BLO of any st, then loosely sl st around the whole of the label, work 2 extra ch’s to help turn around corners. Sl st to first st to join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making up:

  • Embroider the front of the can with a message or food details and add button           detailing (optional)
  • Using the BLO of Rnd 2 Label Edging attach the label to the tin body
  • Stuff the tin body with toy filler
  • Add your other (cardboard / polythene) circle onto the top of the toy filler
  • Sew the top of the tin to the top of the tin body; using the BLO of the tin lid and the FLO of the tin body. Fasten off and weave in any ends

And that’s it!

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Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, LoveCrochet.comFacebook page or Facebook groupTwitter,  Pinterest and Instagram and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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