I’m excited to share a brand new free crochet block pattern with you today called the Isaz Afghan Block. Named after the Viking word for ‘Ice’ this 8 inch (20cm²) crochet block is filled with wintery themed textures crochet stitches that would make a lovely textured addition to your crochet blanket.

Crochet squares I think are such fun things to play with because you can come up with unlimited ideas and colour combinations – I had real fun with the texture on this block.

I’ve used some Scheepjes Stone Washed XL for my square but you could easily use up scrap yarn to make several of the these blocks and join them into an afghan/ blanket, or a scarf maybe, or even a table runner.

This block pattern is part of the Charity Cozy Fall make along (MAL) where 60 unique blanket squares are released for the month of October to form a cozy blanket. You can find all the MAL info in this post here, along with a link to a PDF bundle for either crochet, knit or Tunisian crochet squares (or to all three in a Trifecta saver bundle). 30% of all proceeds go towards supporting children in need as a donation to Cure Childhood Cancer. The PDF bundle is only available for the duration of the MAL – so grab your bundle now!

Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

Pin this project for later:

Isaz Afghan Block

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Materials

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted), Scheepjes Stone Washed XL used in photographs.

• Crystal Quartz   (854)  YARN A
• Green Agate      (855)  YARN B
• Blue Apatite       (845)  YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

• Scissors
• A yarn needle

Gauge: 4dc = 3inch / 7.6cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of                indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• [ … ]     Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

Pattern Notes

• The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as  a st
• The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
• The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 2 tr into the ring, ch3, [ 3tr, ch3 ] repeat from [ … ]  twice more, sl st to the top of the              beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 12sts / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch1, [ (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the same sp, ch3, miss 3 sts ]  repeat from [ … ] three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join.. 8sts / 8 x ch3-sps

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch3-sp; ch6 (counts at first tr + ch3, here and throughout), 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in the next ch3-sp ] repeat twice more, ch2, 1dc in the next ch3-sp, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 28sts / 8 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch3-sp,  repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, miss 2ch, 3tr in the dc of rnd 3, miss 2ch, BPtr in the next 3sts, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 44sts / 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 5: Join Yarn A with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch5 (counts at first htr + ch3, here and throughout) 1htr in the same sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, sl st to the top of the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 52sts / 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 6: Join Yarn B with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 3tr in the same sp, [ ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next 3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) ] repeat [ … ] twice, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 1tr in the next

3sts, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, miss 2sts, ch2, 2tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends, 44sts / 16 x ch2-sps, 4 x ch3-sps.

Rnd 7: Join Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 1tr in the same sp, [ BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next ch-sp ] repeat [ … ] twice, BPtr in the next 3sts, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts, 3tr in the dc of the previous rnd, BPtr in the next 3sts. Fasten off C and weave in ends, 68sts / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 8: With Yarn A; ch5, 1htr in the same ch-sp, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) repeat [ … ] twice, 1htr in 4sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 3sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1htr in 4sts. Sl st to the 2nd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. to Fasten off A and weave in ends, 76sts / 4 x ch3- sps

Rnd 9: Yarn C with a sl st to any ch3-sp; ch6, 2tr in the same sp, [ 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts (2tr, ch3, 2tr) ] repeat [ … ] three times, 1tr in 8sts, BPtr in 3sts, 1tr in 8sts. 1tr in the ch3-sp, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join.  Fasten off C and weave in ends, 92sts / 4 x ch3-sps

And that’s it!

BLOCKING

Your square may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

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A few months ago I was contacted by the folks at Performance Yarn to see if I would like to try out some of their products. Never one to shy away from trying something new, especially yarn related, I said yes please – and they kindly sent me a few of their products to try.

In the package that arrived their were a few different yarns; there were some balls of their Lollipop 100% organic cotton in a variegated shades of white, reds, browns and pinks. There was another type of yarn called Woolinen, which is a gorgeous 80% merino superwash and 20% linen each in a solid forest green and bracken brown colour, and finally some Cotton Bay which is 100% combed cotton in some lovely bright pink, yellow and white. That particular yarn caught my eye for a project that I’ve had on my mind to do for awhile now; I’ve been wanting to make some crochet cloths.

I’ve been asked a few times about good patterns for a newbie crocheters to try, especially if they don’t like the idea of making granny squares. Well crochet dishcloths are a great starter project and they are a great way to learn new stitches. As they are usually made with textured crochet stitches they are ideal for cleaning either your dishes or scrubbing your face. They make great gifts (for housewarming or for a spa bundle) and are usually quite quick to make.

The best type of yarn to use for crochet washcloths is either cotton (or a cotton blend) just like the combed Cotton Bay I was sent to try. Cotton is durable, absorbent, washable and dries quickly and fully so perfect for cleaning cloths.

The Crochet Cloth Trio pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern below is written just in UK terms, if you aren’t sure of those you can view a handy US conversion chart here on the blog.

Pin this project for later:

Crochet Cloth Trio

Materials

Yarn Required: Approx 40g or less per cloth

Yarn Used: Performance Cotton Bay in shades:

• 187 (Yellow)            YARN A
• 02 (White)                YARN B
• 34 (Pink)                  YARN C

About the yarn: 4ply / Sport weight: 120m per 50g ball .

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size D/3)

You will also need:

• Scissors
• A yarn needle

Gauge: 5dc = 1inch / 2.5cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Front Post double crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from back to front around the post of the stitch of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Patterns

LEMON PEEL CLOTH

• Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
• The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch42, 1dc in second ch from hook, [1tr in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch2, 1tr in the first st, [1dc in the next st, 1tr in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the first st, [1tr in the next st, 1dc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  32: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

EVEN MOSS STITCH  CLOTH

• Beginning ch any odd number of stitches;
• The ch1 / ch2 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
• Do not pull your slip stitches too tight

Row 1: With Yarn B; ch42, 1htr in second ch from hook, [sl st in the next ch, 1htr in the next ch] repeat across the row until the end, turn. 41 sts

Row 2: Ch1, sl st on the top of the previous 1htr [ 1htr on top of the sl st of the previous row, sl st on top of the htr of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr on the top of the previous 1htr [ sl st on top of the htr of the previous row, 1 htr on top of the sl st of the previous row ]  repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Rows 4 –  46: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

VINTAGE RASPBERRY STITCH CLOTH

• Beginning ch any even number of stitches;
• The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as  a st
• Do not work the FPdc too tightly

Row 1: With Yarn A; ch43, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each st until end., turn. 42 sts

Row 2: Ch1, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the next st, [1dc in the next st, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat across the row until the last 2sts, 1dc in the remaining sts, turn.

Rows 4 –  44: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern or until your cloth measures your desired size. E.g. 8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3 cm)

Edging for all Cloths

Do not fasten off after the last row but work 1dc evenly along each row and row end (with 3dc in each corner). Fasten off and weave in ends.

BLOCKING

Your cloths may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

And that’s it! I hope you enjoy using your new cloths!

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

Subscribe to the blog:

I’m so excited to finally share with you a brand new free crochet block pattern. It’s called an Autumn Turn and it’s inspired by the turning of the seasons.

I love Autumn, and I love nothing better than going for a lovely walk when it’s a crisp Autumn day, where it’s not too cold, but you have to get a bit wrapped up in some woollies. Inspired by the colours and textures you might see if you are out and about this time of year the Autumn Turn Block makes for a cosy project that would look great together in a blanket or as a component in a multi-square afghan.

The Autumn Turn pattern is available for free here on the blog or, if you prefer working with a printout, you can pick up a PDF of the pattern for a nominal price (links below).

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology via the PDF download; the pattern below is written just in UK terms. But you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Pin this project for later:

Autumn Turn Afghan Block

Materials

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted), Scheepjes Stone Washed XL used in photographs.

• Moonstone (841) YARN A
• Smokey Quartz (842) YARN B
• Coral (856)   YARN C
• Yellow Jasper (849)  YARN D
• Canada Jade (846)  YARN E

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

• Scissors
• A yarn needle

Gauge: 4dc = 3inch / 7.6cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      8 x 8 inches (20.3 x 20.3cm)

Stitch Guidance

• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• V-Stitch (Vst): (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in same st
• Puff Stitch  (PF): In this pattern the puff stitches should be worked as follows; Yarn over and              insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) twice more. times (9 loops on hook)  Yarn over and pull through 8 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook to close.   
• Spike double crochet (SPtr): The spike stitch is worked using the same steps as a treble         crochet stitch, but instead of working into the current row where you are crocheting, you drop down and work it into a row or space below the current row. You always draw the yarn up so that the top of the stitch is still exactly where the top would be if this were a normal treble.
• Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

• The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as  a st
• The ch2 at the start of a rnd counts as a half treble st.
• The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as a treble st.

Working in the Front / Back Loop Only (FLO / BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to  crochet into the back loop or front loop only insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With Yarn A; ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11 tr into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (12sts)

Rnd 2: Join Yarn B with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch3, 1tr in the same st, working in BLO, 2tr into each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. (24sts)

Rnd 3: Join Yarn A with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch1, [ 1dc in 2 sts, then working in FLO of rnd 1, SPtr } repeat { … } around. Fasten off A and weave in ends. (36sts; 24 dc / 12 SPtr)

Rnd 4: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch2, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next [1 htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the next ] repeat  { … } around. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (48sts)

Rnd 5: Join Yarn D with a sl st to the top of any st; Ch5 (Counts as 1tr + 2ch), 1tr in the same st, miss st, PF in the next st, [miss st, V-St in the next st, miss st, PF in the next st, miss st] into each st around, sl st to the top of the 3rd ch of the beginning 5ch to join. (48sts; 12PF / 12 Vsts / 24ch2-sps)

Rnd 6: Starting from the join from the previous rnd, into the next ch2 sp along; ch3, 2tr in the same sp, ch2, 3tr in the same sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd, [ (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in the next ch2-sp, sl st in the top of the next PF from the previous rnd ] repeat [ …} around. Fasten off D and weave in ends. (12 petals)

Rnd 7: Join Yarn E with a sl st to the top of any sl st; Ch6 (counts as 1tr + 3ch), 1dc in the next ch2 sp (of the petal tip), ch3, [ 1tr in the next sl st, ch3, 1dc in the next ch3sp, ch3] repeat [ …} around, ending with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch. Fasten off E and weave in ends. (24sts + 24 x ch3-sps)

Rnd 8: Join Yarn C with a sl st to the top of any dc st, Ch4 (Counts as 1dtr) 2dtr, ch3, 3dtr in the same st, [ 2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, (3dtr, ch3, 3dtr) in the next st ] repeat [ …} twice more,  2tr in the next ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the next ch-sp, (1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next ch-sp) repeat ( …) once more, 1dc in the next st, 2htr in the next            ch-sp, 1htr in the next st, 2tr in the next ch-sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch to join. Fasten off C and weave in ends. (92sts + 4 x ch3-sps)

Rnd 9: Join B with a sl st to any ch3-sp corner, ch1, [ (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in the same sp, 1dc in each st across ] repeat [ …} around until end. Sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (100sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed your turn through the season.

BLOCKING

Your square may benefit from being blocked;

1. Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.

2. Using your tape measure and pins, carefully pin your item on your blocking board

3. Double check your measurements if necessary (i.e. check the height and width are correct)

4. Leave to dry completely over 24 hours and then unpin.

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – And  I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

Subscribe to the blog: