Free Crochet Pattern | Jelly Bean Bunny

Hop into the spirit of Easter with the charming Jelly Bean Bunny crochet pattern! This adorable design, originally crafted six years ago for I Like Crochet magazine, is not only a delightful addition to your Easter decor but also a fun and festive project for crocheters of all skill levels. With its whimsical charm and cuddly appeal, the Jelly Bean Bunny is sure to bring joy and smiles to your holiday celebrations.

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Pinterest collage for the free crochet amigurumi pattern for the Jelly Bean Bunny from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

As this was quite an old pattern of mine I decided that I’d like to give it a bit of a ‘glow up’ and remake it. Surprisingly I only tweaked things a little bit, but I think those edits have brought it nicely up to date and make the pattern better than it was – I love how it turned out.

Just a quick note to say I used Rico Designs Ricorumi DK (light worsted) but you don’t have to use the same yarn I used, in fact this pattern could make an awesome stashbuster for whatever cotton you might have in your stash.

Whether you’re gearing up for Easter celebrations or simply looking for a fun and quick project, this pattern is perfect for you! Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

Jelly Bean Bunny

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: 2 – Easy

Yarn: Rico Designs Ricorumi DK; 8ply / Double Knit / Light Worsted / Light Weight; 25g / 58m; 100% Cotton

1 ball 062 Pastel Yellow (A)
1 ball 032 Blue (B)
1 ball 009 Coral (C)
1 ball 068 Papaya (D)
1 ball 047 Pistachio (E)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: · 3.5mm (US size E/4).

You will also need:

Gauge: 6dc = 2.5cm / 1 inch

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished size: 15cm / 5.9 inches high

A crocheted Jelly Bean bunny sits on a white background, surrounded by chocolate mini eggs. The bunny features pastel colours and the shape resembles a jelly bean with tall ears, a round body, and embroidered facial features.

STITCH GUIDANCE:

Slip Stitch (sl st) Insert hook in st indicated, arn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Invisible double crochet decrease method: Invisible decreasing is a method of removing stitches to shape your fabric without gaps. Insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the first stitch indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], insert hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next st, pull up a loop [three loops on hook], yarn over, pull through three loops on hook; decrease made.
Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

PATTERN NOTES:

Magic ring: is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
Working in the round: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked in the amigurumi style without joining in continuous rounds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark the start of each round.
Sewing seams: Use mattress stitch to sew the seams.
[…] Repeat the sequence between the square brackets by the number indicated.

PATTERN:

CHEEKS: Make 2

Rnd 1: With YARN C; working into a magic ring, 8 dc. (8 sts)

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the Head

BODY:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; working into a magic ring, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: [2 dc in each st] six times. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in next st] six times. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: [1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: [1 dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (36 sts)

Rnds 7 – 26: 1 dc in each st around.

Add safety eyes between rnds 8-9 approximately 5 sts apart.
Sew on cheeks approx 8sts apart over rnds 13 – 15.
With YARN B embroider a nose mouth and eyebrows using the photos as a guide
Stuff the body, continue to stuff as you go

Rnd 27: [1 dc in the next 4 sts, 1 dc2tog] six times. (30 sts)

Rnd 28: [1 dc in the next 3 sts, 1 dc2tog] six times. (24 sts)

Rnd 29: [1 dc in the next 2 sts, 1 dc2tog] repeat to end. (18 sts)

Rnd 30: [1 dc, dc2tog] repeat to end. (12 sts)

Rnd 31: [dc2tog] repeat to end. (6 sts)

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, and using the yarn tail sew up the remaining 6 sts. Weave in ends

EARS: Make 2

Ears are not stuffed;

Rnd 1: With YARN B; working into a magic ring, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: [2 dc in each st] six times. (12 sts)

Rnds 3 – 9: 1 dc in each st around.

Rnd 10: [1 dc, dc2tog] repeat to end. (8 sts)

Rnds 11 – 12: 1 dc in each st around.

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the Head

ARMS: Make 2

Leave long tail to start; arms are not stuffed;

Rnd 1: With YARN B; ch9, sl st to form a ring, 1 dc in each st around. 9 sts

Rnds 2 – 22:, 1 dc in each st around.

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, over sew each end of the strip of crochet you have just made.
Sew ends together to create a loop so that candy / carrot can be placed in the arm holes.

FEET: Make 2

Rnd 1: With YARN B; working into a magic ring, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: [2 dc in each st] six times. (12 sts)

Rnds 3 – 5: 1 dc in each st around.

Rnd 6: [1 dc, dc2tog] repeat to end. (8 sts)

Rnd 7: 1 dc in each st around.

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the Body

TAIL:

Rnd 1: With YARN B; working into a magic ring, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: [2 dc in each st] six times. (12 sts)

Rnd 7: 1 dc in each st around.

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the Body
Stuff with a tiny bit of toy filler

CARROT BOTTOM:

Rnd 1: With YARN D; working into a magic ring, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: 1 dc in each st around.

Rnd 3: [1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (8 sts)

Rnd 4: 1 dc in each st around.

Rnd 5: [1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (10 sts)

Rnds 6 – 11: 1 dc in each st around.

Rnd 12: [1 dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] six times. (12 sts)

Rnds 13 – 15: 1 dc in each st around.

Lightly stuff the carrot bottom, continue to stuff as you go

Rnd 16: Working in BLO; dc2tog. (6 sts)

Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, and using the yarn tail sew up the remaining 6 sts. Weave in ends

CARROT TOP:

Rnd 1: With YARN E; ch7 sl st back to the first ch, [ch6, sl st back to the first ch] three times.

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the top of the carrot.

MAKING UP:

Ears: Sew the ears either side of the top of the head over rnds 2 – 5 approximately 2 sts apart.

Arms: Sew arms into place on side of the Body over rnds 15 – 17 creating a loop so that candy / carrot can be placed in the arm holes.

Legs: Making sure that the bunny can stand upright attach the legs onto the front of the body on rnds 26 approx. 4 sts apart

Tail: Making sure that the bunny can stand upright attach tail centrally on the back of the bunny

Carrot: Attach the top of the carrot to the carrot bottom and add to one of the arm loops.

Crocheted Jelly Bean bunny amigurumi pattern, perfect for Easter, free pattern available now from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK.

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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19Feb2024

Free Crochet Pattern | Specked Rainbow Wrap

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, I don’t know about you but I am a rainbow fanatic! When I see a rainbow all the colours make me so happy so I thought I’d share with you the perfect accessory to inject a little bit of colour into the dark days of winter.

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Pinterest collage of the Speckled Rainbow Wrap crochet pattern

So there’s a little story behind the creation of this wrap. Back in 2022 I was a guest at the Crochet Sanctuary where, much to our surprise, we were all gifted a whole bit pack of Scheepjes Stone Washed / River Washed Colour Pack minis!

I love these mini’s but I realised I’d actually got two packs (as my brother had got me one for Christmas a previous year), so I decided I wanted to make ‘something’ with all of the colours of this pack. It just so happened that I was sitting next to my lovely friend Claire (of Claire’s Made it) and she had the same idea. So as well as our fab Crochet Sanctuary projects we started working on our own pattern designs, using all of the wonderful shades, that weekend.

Overhead view of a box filled with a rainbow selection of Scheepjes Riverwashed and Stonewashed mini skeins of yarn.

I’d made pretty good headway but then inevitably when I got home I had to work on other things so my poor work in progress just languished for awhile in a corner. Claire on the other hand finished her beautiful scarf and it looked gorgeous!

Our designs are alike, in that they are a similar shape, include eyelets, and of course we use all the colours – but we use contrasting stitches and have a different row repeat so there is enough of a change if you were looking for an additional pattern to hook up some minis. You can find all the details on how Claire made her pretty Colourful Striped Scarf for free on her blog so be sure to check that out too.

Desk top view of a rolled up rainbow crochet scarf along side a mug with a crochet chart on the front.

Anyway, fast forward to the end of last year and I found myself with a bit of time to finish my project. A note about my version before you begin, I did leave roughly 10% of the minis’ to make my scarf as I didn’t want to run out of any colours, and I also had another idea about using up scrap bits of yarn (more on that another time). So if you are using the same yarn, and you want to use all, you may wish to increase the starting chain of your scarf in multiples of 5 or perhaps.

So without further ado allow me to introduce the Speckled Rainbow Wrap, a lovely easy pattern that’s perfect for beginners or more experienced crocheters looking for a mindful make.

Large crochet rainbow filet wrap scarf - free pattern available from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Blog

Of course you don’t have to use the same yarn I used, in fact this pattern could make an awesome stashbuster for scraps – just keep on working the design until you run out of yarn!

Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern (in either UK or US terms) if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

Speckled Rainbow Wrap

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: 2 – Easy

Yarn: Sport / Baby yarn weight #2 (Fine), approx 580g / 1,508m required in total.

1 pack of 58 colours of Scheepjes Stone Washed colours and River Washed yarn in 10g balls (78% cotton and 22% acrylic).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: · 3.5mm (US size E/4).

You will also need:

Gauge: 5 sts = 2.5cm / 1 inch; 5 rows = 5cm / 1.9 inches

Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.

Finished size: 174cm long x 48cm wide / 68 inches long x 19 inches wide

Large crocheted scarf wrap twisted into a braided knot around the neck of a white mannikin.

Colour order:

You can use your colours in any orders you wish, but if you’d like to make one using the same colour order that I used I’ve put together a list for you below.

1. Stone Washed Obsidian – 829
2. Stone Washed Brown Agate – 822
3. Stone Washed Boulder Opal – 804
4. Stone Washed Axinite – 831
5. Stone Washed Pink Quartzite – 821
6. Stone Washed Moon Stone – 801
7. Stone Washed New Jade – 819
8. Stone Washed Fosterite – 826
9. River Washed Congo – 954
10. River Washed Tiber – 958
11. Stone Washed Malachite – 825
12. River Washed Po – 955
13. River Washed Amazon – 951
14. River Washed Narmada – 962
15. Stone Washed Canada Jade – 806
16. Stone Washed Peridot – 827
17. Stone Washed Lemon Quartz – 812
18. Stone Washed Yellow Jasper – 809
19. Stone Washed Beryl – 833
20. Stone Washed Citrine – 817
21. River Washed Ural – 959
22. Stone Washed Enstatite – 832
23. River Washed Murray – 960
24. Stone Washed Morganite – 834
25. Stone Washed Coral – 816
26. River Washed Mersey – 961
27. River Washed Seine – 947
28. River Washed Nile – 944
29. River Washed Avon – 956
30. River Washed Mississippi – 946

31. Stone Washed Carnelian – 823
32. Stone Washed Red Jasper – 807
33. Stone Washed Rhodochrosite – 835
34. Stone Washed Rose Quartz – 820
35. Stone Washed Tourmaline – 836
36. River Washed Mekong – 943
37. Stone Washed Corundum Ruby – 808
38. Stone Washed Lilac Quartz – 818
39. Stone Washed Deep Amethyst – 811
40. Stone Washed Lepidolite – 830
41. Stone Washed Garnet – 810
42. River Washed Eisack – 957
43. River Washed Ganges – 945
44. River Washed Steenbras – 942
45. River Washed Yarra – 949
46. River Washed Colorado – 941
47. River Washed Severn – 953
48. River Washed Wheaton – 950
49. Stone Washed Blue Apatite – 805
50. River Washed Danube – 948
51. River Washed Rhine – 952
52. Stone Washed Turquoise – 824
53. Stone Washed Green Agate – 815
54. Stone Washed Larimar – 828
55. Stone Washed Amazonite – 813
56. Stone Washed Crystal Quartz – 814
57. Stone Washed Smokey Quartz – 802
58. Stone Washed Black Onyx – 803

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Treble two together (tr2tog): Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops left on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

V-Stitch (VSt): 2tr in one st
Beginning V-St (Beg.VSt): 3 ch, 1 tr in the same st
Beginning tr2tog (Beg. Tr2tog): Ch2 – acts as the first part of the tr2tog, continue the tr2tog as normal
(RS / WS): Right Side / Wrong side of work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified

PATTERN

The ch3 at the start of a row counts as the first st
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / last st of a row.
Change colours every three rows; fasten off last st and weave in ends. Attach new colour to the top of the last st worked with a sl st to join. See optional colour order on page 4.

Row 1 (RS): Ch83, 1tr in the 4th ch from hook (counts as first Vst), 1tr in the next 2sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 6sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, tr2tog in the remaining sts, turn. 79sts

Work into the ch’s as if it were a st after row 1; this will result in staggered ch-sp eyelet ‘speckles’.

Row 2: Beg.Tr2tog, 1tr in the next 3sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, Vst in the last st, turn.

Row 3: Beg.VSt, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 6sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, tr2tog in the remaining sts, turn

Row 4: Beg.Tr2tog, 1tr in each st across until the last st, Vst in the last st, turn.

Row 5: Beg.VSt, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 6sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, tr2tog in the remaining sts, turn

Row 6: Beg.Tr2tog, 1tr in each st across until the last st, Vst in the last st, turn.

Row 7: Beg.VSt, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 6sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, tr2tog in the remaining sts, turn

Row 8: Beg.Tr2tog, 1tr in the next 3sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, Vst in the last st, turn.

Row 9: Beg.VSt, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts] repeat across until the last 6sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, tr2tog in the remaining sts, turn

The six row repeat of rows 4—9 make up the pattern for the scarf:

Rows 10 – 171: repeat row 4– 9 twenty seven times more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

BLOCKING

The design of this scarf may benefit from being wet blocked;

Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board
Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g check the height and width are correct)
Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.

PARTIAL CHART

Please note there are more stitches and rows than shown: