Free Crochet Pattern | Baby Shark Chunky Amigurumi


So has the title of today’s free amigurumi made you want to break out into song?

Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo! Ba-be shark do do doo do do doo doo doo!

Sorry about that! It kind of had to be done! You can thank my toddler for today’s earworm!  If you have no idea what I’m talking about and the phenomena that is the Pingfong Baby Shark Song has passed you by – lucky you! The baby shark song is now reportedly listed as one of the Top 40 most-viewed videos songs ever on YouTube – and my two year old LOVES it!

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_01

You may remember me saying that every year I try to crochet my girls a little something for Christmas; I made my (now eight) year old a giant narwhal (get the free pattern here) and so keeping with the oceanic theme it seemed only appropriate that I make Little Miss a baby shark.

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_03

I actually made the whole shark out of what was left of the one ball of Marriners plain Super Chunky (in Silver) that I used for the narwhals tusk – so if you bought the yarn for the giant narwhal then you should have enough left over to make this ami too. 

Designed with embroidered features this ami is perfect for little ones under 36 months – for older children or adults you could use safety eyes instead.

KCACOUK-Free-Crochet-Baby-Shark_02

The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Baby Shark Chunky Amigurumi

skill2

Materials:

Yarn:

  • 1 x 100g / 80m of Yarn B

Marriner Super Chunky (Silver – Yarn B)  used in photos.

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 6.5mm (US size K)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • Black yarn 

Gauge: 7dc/sc = 8cm (3.1 inches)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but yarn amounts and finished size of projecy may differ if your gauge is different from mine.

Finished Size: 25cm (9.8 inches) from nose to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch                            
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US single crochet 2 together

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog):
  • Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Many parts of the narwhal are worked without joining in continuous rnds – place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Body:

Worked from tail to nose;

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next seven sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).

Rnd 9: * 1dc/sc in next eight sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 10-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next eight sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (27sts).

Rnd 16: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next seven sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 18: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc in the next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (21sts).

Rnd 20: * 1dc/sc in the next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in the next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (15sts).

Rnd 22: * 1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 23: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

  • Stuff the body
  • Then pressing rnd 23 sides closed sew together.

Side Fins (Make 2):

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 5dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (5sts).

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 3: 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st, 1dc/sc in the remaining two sts (6sts).

Rnd 4: 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (8sts).

Rnd 5: 2dc/sc in the next four sts, 1dc/sc in the remaining four sts (12sts).

Rnd 6: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd,  fasten off but leave a long yarn tail

Top Fin:

Rnd 1: Either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 4dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (4sts).

Rnd 2: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd, fasten off but leave a long yarn tail (12sts).

Tail:

Rnd 1: Ch13; 1dc/sc in the second ch from the hook then 1dc/sc in each st until end, then working down the other side of the starting ch, 1dc/sc in each st. 24sts

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd,  fasten off but leave a long yarn tail

  • Then pressing rnd 2 sides closed sew together.

Making up:

  • With black thread embroider eyes on between rnds 18-19 approx 5sts apart
  • With black thread embroider three gills on rnds 13-15 on each side of the body
  • Attach the side fins (with the curve pointing backwards) on each side of the shark over rnds 10-16 approx 7sts apart
  • Attach top fin on top of shark over rnds 15-9
  • Attach the centre of the tail piece vertically onto rnd 1 of the body.

And that’s it!

If you hook up my Baby Shark amigurumi please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see it!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Marriner Yarns | Free Giant Narwhal Amigurumi


Hello, how you doing? How’s your week been? How am I you say? Well I’ve just been finishing off the last few touches to a free pattern for you!

How do you fancy a pattern for a giant narwhal?! I’m hoping you’ve said yes…because over Christmas that’s what I made for my daughter. She loves it and so I thought you might do too. 

kcaco-uk-narwhal

Every year I try to crochet my girls a little something, they always love these makes and it’s lovely to see the enjoyment they get out of them.  This year I’m not quite sure how the conversation came about but it ended up some how with me agreeing to make my seven year old a narwhal, and not just a small narwhal, a GIANT one!

narwhal-stitch-marker

Narwhals are just such interesting creatures aren’t they! There are none in captivity (apparently any attempts to keep them have been unsuccessful) and this obviously lends to the mythical intrigue about the animal I’m sure!

Did you know they are dubbed as the unicorn of the sea as apparently in medieval times their tusks (which is actually a tooth) were passed off as actual unicorn horns – maybe this is why they seem kind of magical! They are just so fascinating and mysterious that I thought who wouldn’t want to crochet a cuddly plushie one! 

kcacouk-narwhal3

I have actually always wanted to have a go at making a giant amigurumi but giant things usually take lots of time and use giant amounts of yarn. So what I needed was big yarn and a big hook!

You may remember that Marriner Yarns kindly sent me some yarn to try out last year (read about that here). In the pack was some variegated Mermaid Super Chunky which I thought might work out nicely.

mermaid-super-chunky

They’d sent me one ball of Marshmallow in the pack but one ball wasn’t going to make anything giant so I bought some more off their website (it came pretty quickly too) and combined it with a ball of their Marriners plain Super Chunky in Silver (for the tusk).

Watch this space for another ocean creature, that I made for my youngest, that I made with the left over Silver Marriners Super Chunky – coming soon!

Mermaid Chunky really is lovely and soft and works well for chunky amigurumi and as it’s only £1.50 per ball it won’t cost you a fortune to make an amigurumi this big. Whalema (as my daughter has called hers) measures a whopping 99cm (39 inches) from horn tip to tail so she’s not small! 

The recommended hook size for the yarn is a 10mm (US N/13) but I used a 6.5mm (US size K) for a tighter amigurumi stitch. That said I’ve recently discovered that I’m a loose crocheter so you may find a larger hook size works for you just as well.

kcaco-uk-narwhal2

The following pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available on Ravelry where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 4 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

So are you ready for the pattern? I’ll just say a quick thanks to Marriner Yarns again for supplying the Mermaid Chunky so I could make this free pattern for you and then we can begin…

Chunky Narwhal Amigurumi

skill2

Materials:

Yarn:

    • 4 x 100g / 80m of Yarn A
    • 1 x 100g / 80m of Yarn B

Marriner Mermaid Super Chunky (Marshmallow – Yarn A) Marriner Super Chunky (Silver – Yarn B)  used in photos.

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 6.5mm (US size K)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • 2 x 30mm Glitter (or Black) Safety eyes

Gauge: 7dc/sc = 8cm (3.1 inches)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but yarn amounts and finished size of projecy may differ if your gauge is different from mine.

Finished Size: 99cm (39 inches) from horn tip to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch                            
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US single crochet 2 together

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Single Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog):
  • Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Many parts of the narwhal are worked without joining in continuous rnds – place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Body:

Worked from nose to tail;

Rnd 1: With Yarn A either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st *  repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next 17 sts, 2dc/sc in next two sts, 1dc/sc in next 17 sts (38sts).

Rnd 8: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 9: 1dc/sc in next 18 sts, 2dc/sc in next two sts, 1dc/sc in next 18 sts (40sts).

Rnds 10-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: 1dc/sc in next 19 sts, 2dc/sc in next two sts, 1dc/sc in next 19 sts (42sts).

Rnds 13-22: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

  • Add eyes in between rnds 19-20 approx 15sts apart

Rnd 23: 1dc/sc in next 19 sts, 2dc/sc in next four sts, 1dc/sc in next 19 sts (46sts).

Rnds 24-38: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 39: 1dc/sc in next 19 sts, dc/sc2tog four times, 1dc/sc in next 19 sts (42sts).

Rnds 40-44: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 45: 1dc/sc in next 19 sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next 19 sts (40sts).

Rnds 46-48: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 49: 1dc/sc in next 18 sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next 18 sts (38sts).

Rnds 50-51: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 52: 1dc/sc in next 17 sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next 17 sts (36sts).

Rnd 53: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go

Rnd 54: * 1dc/sc in the next four sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 55-58: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 59: * 1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnds 60-62: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 63: * 1dc/sc in the next four sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (20sts).

Rnd 64: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 65: * 1dc/sc in the next three sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (16sts).

Rnd 66: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 67: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts).

Rnds 68-69: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 70: * dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd, fasten off and sew together the remaining sts with your yarn tail.

Side Fins (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With Yarn A either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnd 4: 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in next four sts (10sts).

Rnd 5: 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in next four sts (12sts).

Rnd 6: 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in the next four sts, 1dc/sc in next four sts (16sts).

Rnds 7-9: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 10: * 1dc/sc in the next two sts, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching fins to the body

Tail Fins (Make 2):

Rnds 1-6: With Yarn A make as side fins (16sts).

Rnd 7: 1dc/sc in next seven sts, 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in next seven sts (18sts).

Rnd 8: 1dc/sc in next eight sts, 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in next eight sts (20sts).

Rnd 9: 1dc/sc in next nine sts, 2dc/sc in the next two sts, 1dc/sc in next nine sts (22sts).

Rnds 10-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 15: 1dc/sc in next nine sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next nine sts (20sts).

Rnd 16: 1dc/sc in next eight sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next eight sts (18sts).

Rnd 17: 1dc/sc in next seven sts, dc/sc2tog twice, 1dc/sc in next seven sts (16sts).

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching tail fins to the body

Horn:

Rnd 1: With Yarn B either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 5dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (5sts).

Rnds 2-7: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 8: 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next five sts (6sts).

Rnds 9-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 12: 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next six sts (8sts).

Rnds 13-15: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Start to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go

Rnd 16: 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next seven sts (7sts).

Rnds 17-19: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Rnd 20: 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next eight sts (8sts).

Rnd 21: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd

Fasten off but leave long yarn tail for attaching horn to the body

Making up:

  • Attach the bottom fins (with the curve pointing backwards) on each side of the  narwhal over rnds 24-27 approx 14sts apart
  • Attach the tail fins (with the curve pointing backwards) on either side of the end of the narwhal over rnds 64-71
  • Attach the horn over rnds 4-5 on the forehead of the narwhal

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Giant Narwhal please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see it!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Crochet Now Magazine | Angelica the Mouse Amigurumi


I’m so excited to say that I’ve got a new pattern out in issue 37 of Crochet Now magazine. I’ve actually been waiting for this design to come out so I could tell you about it as it’s definitely one of my favourite makes that I’ve made to date!  

heather gibbs - angelica mouse - scheepjes stonewashed

© Practical Publishing

Meet Angelica Mouse! This wee gal is all ready for a winter walk into town in her cute dress, hat and muff. I think she’s going yarn shopping…yes she’s got that look of a dedicated yarn shopper don’t you think.

And she’s dressed perfectly for the weather here in the UK at the moment. It started snowing here tonight and I keep thinking I could do with a muff! It looks fab on a mouse – but do people still wear hand muffs? Anyway I digress…back to the crochet… 

kcacouk-angelica-mouse

When I started designing her I think I might have been subconsciously channelling a bit of Miss Bianca from Disney’s The Rescuers as that’s who my Dad said she looked like. But in the end I think she’s turned out to have her own look and I really do love how she turned out. She came together really well when I was designing her – sometimes a pattern just flows off your hook and I think they often end up as my favourites for that reason.

angelica-mouse-kcacouk

For this design I used Scheepjes Stonewashed yarn, which if you follow along here on the blog, you will know is some of my favourite yarn to crochet with. I think the stonewashed aged look of the yarn suited the design and the look I was trying to create perfectly.

designing-angelica-mouse-amigurumi

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

As well as my crochet mouse pattern issue 37 features loads of great patterns including some really fun C2C projects and some really cute birds by Irene Strange (who you may remember I interviewed a couple years ago). 

cn37.p01 uk rgb_resized

If you hook up Angelica the Mouse please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see it! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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I Like Crochet Magazine |Stonewashed Bag


I’ve got a new design out in the February 2019 issue of I Like Crochet and it’s one I really love!  The Stonewashed bag is my new favourite thing! It’s such a classic shape, it’s got a fun retro / vintage feel about it, and it’s easy to make!

stonewash-bag-horizontal+text

This large shoulder bag was inspired and pieced together like a denim patchwork and I added some faux leather handles to feel a bit like a belt. It’s really spacious inside and has a popper closure making it a great carryall bag.

You can’t really tell on the photos in the magazine but I lined it with a cute floral fabric which I picked up at my local yarn shop – and I love the pop of colour in the middle.

stonewashed-bag

This is a simple-to-make crochet bag, great for beginners and would be a quick make for more accomplished crocheters. 

For this design I used Wool and the Gang Billie Jean yarn which I’d wanted to try because it’s made using upcycled pre-consumer denim waste​ which I thought was really cool – and it just suited my design idea perfectly! 

stonewash-bag_small

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

As well as my bag pattern the February issue features over 25 patterns to enjoy including cardigans, ponchos, pillows and blankets.

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SUBSCRIBE TODAY for a copy of the magazine straight

to your desktop or iPad.

If you hook up the Stonewashed bag please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see it! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Joining and Edging


SSCAL18-The-End

Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:

Stitch-Story-Part13-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Joining your blocks together

First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design. 

Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.

Top tips for joining:

  1. When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
  2. When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
  3. Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.

Whip-stitch:

  1. Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
  3. Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
  4. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Slip stitch join:

  1. Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
  3. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Post Stitch Rib Border

I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed.  I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).

Joining

Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join

Corner

Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends

Schematics

Heather-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

Jacki-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…

Esthers-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!

Irish-Blessing

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern |Mini Tapestry Christmas Tree Decorations


I love making Christmas decorations so when I got to try some Creativa Fino from Anchor Crafts (review of which you can read here) and as it’s December that’s what I decided to make.

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You can scroll down to the written patterns and the charts for the Christmas Wreath and Christmas Tree mini tapestry pillow tree decorations below, but if you are new to tapestry crochet you might want have a look at my mini tapestry crochet tutorial first.

Mini Tapestry Crochet Christmas Tree Decorations:

Materials:

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2

1 x 10g Anchor Creativa

  • Blue (Shade 00269)
  • Green (Shade 00418)
  • Brown (Shade 00257)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 2.5mm (US size C/2)

You will also need:

  • 1 x Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton (232)
  • A yarn needle
  • 1 x Small red bow
  • 8 x Small Red / 8 x Small Silver Beads
  • 1 x Small Star or Snowflake button
  • Small amount of polyester toy filler

Gauge: 5dc = 2cm (0.78inches)

Finished Size:  7 x 7cm (2.75 x 2.75 inches)

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • cc = change colour (see guidance for details)

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Changing Colour:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

Tapestry Crochet:

When changing to and from a colour carry the  unused coloured yarn along with you and crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along, when turning carry your yarn up the side of your work to use on the next row.

Surface Crochet:

Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work,  insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way  according to the design.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-03

Christmas Wreath (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the  beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Rowd 6-8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining st, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 3

Row 12: Repeat row 2 – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

  • Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • With Green surface crochet around the outside of the wreath shape.
  • On one side of the wreath shape sew a small red bow and eight red beads around the wreath – see photo above for more details.

Anchor-Tapestry-Xmas-04

Christmas Tree (Make 2):

Row 1: With Blue; ch14; 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts

Rows 2-3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Brown, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn

Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next st, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 9sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 2sts, turn

Rows 7 – 8: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 7sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 3sts, turn

Rows 9 – 10: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 4sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 4sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next 3sts, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 5sts, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the next 5sts, cc to Green, 1dc in the next st, cc to Blue, 1dc in the remaining 6sts, turn – cut green yarn at the end of this row

Row 13: Ch1; 1dc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1dc in the second ch from hook and in st along until end, turn. 13sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • With Green / Brown surface crochet around the outside of the tree shape.
  • On one side of the tree shape sew small star or snowflake button at the top and eight silver beads for baubles on the tree – see photo for more details.

Finishing:

  1. Place both wreaths / Christmas tree pieces  together, attach blue yarn through both pieces and neatly work 1dc/sc along each edge with 5dc/sc in each corner. Stuff as you go. Fasten off and weave in ends
  2. With Anchor Grey Stranded Cotton Ch30, fasten off but leave long yarn tail.
  3. Attach to the top centre of each pillow decoration as the hanging loop.

Charts:

Christmas-Wreath-Chart

Christmas-Tree-Chart

I hope you will join me in hooking up some little pillow decorations, they are really fun to make! I hope you’ll tag me on social media or link any projects to Ravelry so I can see – I love to see what you make.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial


So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen my review of Anchor Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor crafts kindly sent me to try.  I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

Tapestry-Christmas-Tree-02

I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row. 

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

Anchor-TUT01

Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

Anchor-TUT02C

Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

Anchor-TUT03

Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

Anchor-TUT04

Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

ANCHOR-TUT05

Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

Anchor-Tut06

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are often  two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

Anchor-Tapestry-Crochet-03

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorial  chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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