Finding men’s crochet patterns is not as easy as finding crochet designs for women or children. Dads, granddads, husbands, sons and friends – there’s potentially a lot of folks out there that would love something you specifically crocheted for them. That’s where my new design, the Cat Bells Cowl, comes in…
I actually designed this cowl for my husband; he’s a keen hiker and one of his most favourite places in the world is The Lake District in Cumbria. It’s a place we go as a family at least once a year, and a place he frequents, whenever he gets the opportunity, to go hiking or cycling.
The name of the ‘Cat Bells’ Cowl is actually taken from one of the most popular fells in the area by the same name. Cat Bells is a short, sharp, steep climb richly rewarded by spectacular views that my husband has completed a couple of times. I wanted to create something sharp, steep and with texture to compliment the place that he loves.
Snood, buff, neck-warmer or cowl (the descriptions are pretty interchangeable) are great for men (and women) as they keep the neck and ears warm without the gappiness of a scarf! Designed to keep you cosy and warm cowls can add a stylish, yet minimalist, finish to your winter look.
Although I designed the cowl for a man, the pattern is fairly unisex so you could use different colours to crochet cowls for all your family members!
The yarn I used for this cowl was from my stash; and was actually a gift from my lovely mum for Christmas 2022. It’s a gorgeous deep teal-to-blues blended yarn called Royal Robe and it was hand-dyed by Rosie’s Moments. I only had one skein so I thought a lovely lightweight cowl would be the perfect way to go.
I would recommend a semi-solid colourway for this design so that you can see the stitch definition. Variegated yarns are wonderful; but they often don’t work well with textured patterns as the colours can hide the effect of the stitches.
The yarn blend I used was sock weight (4ply) 75% Superwashed Merino, 25% nylon; the natural properties of merino will mean that skin should remain cool and dry, and heat will be diverted into the upper and lower body during wear.
The cowl is the perfect accessory to pull up to protect the face from the winter chill, and simple enough to wear around the neck for warmth and wind protection. Ideal for cycling, hiking or any outdoor sport (or just to compliment your winter wardrobe).
I’m in love with the texture on this cowl, in fact I’ve kind of envisioned three ‘kindred cowls’ working with similar textures and stitches for three different looks – I’m pretty much finished with the second cowl so watch this space!
I designed the cowl specifically as a single 4ply (fingering weight) 100g skein project which I combined with a with a 3.25mm hook. It’s important to note though that not all single 100g skeins are the same length. For this cowl you need a skein that is 425m or more – anything smaller and you might not have enough yarn to finish the project (and that would just be annoying!).
The Cat Bells Cowl pattern can easily be adjusted, to make it smaller or larger, (with more yarn) and the pattern will work in other yarn weights – I can’t wait to see what variations you come up with!
This pattern is perfect for adventurous crocheter that loves a mindful pattern with gorgeous texture. It’s a fairly easy pattern to master, once you get the hang of the stitch repeats and is a great project to take out and about with it only being a single skein of yarn.
The pattern now available for purchase, in both UK and US terms, from my usual pattern platforms – but scroll down to see limited special offer!
This pattern will be available for FREE from 12pm GMT (8am EST) on 20 September 2023 for 24hrs as part of the Just for Men Blog Hop by Two Brothers Blankets and Sunflower Cottage Crochet.
2: Click on the button below to go to the Cat Bells Cowl on Ravelry.
3: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
4: If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the cowl from any of the links to my patterns stores (links above)
All the patterns from Just for Men Blog Hop are available in a limited edition bundle which is a fabulous collection of menswear accessories like hats, pillows, cowls, scarfs and more. Go straight to the bundle via the link below:
It includes all 21 designs featured in the blog hop in one bundle that you can download to your favourite device. You’ll then be able to print out individual patterns as your convenience. This pattern bundle of crochet men’s accessories won’t last for long. It will only be available until Friday, 22 September2023.
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I can’t wait to see your versions of the Cat Bells Cowl. I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Will you be mad with me if I tell you that there’s only 117 days till Christmas…that’s about 17 weeks…or 4 months, it’s gonna be here before we know it! As crafters it’s always nice to get a little head start on things and that’s just what you’ll get with the latest issue of Your Crochet and Knitting magazine.
Everyone needs a Festive Ted! This Christmas mascot is sure to become a family favourite with his colourful stripy shirt and a Santa hat.
He’s was a really fun character to make, and I would say is perfect for adventurous crochet beginners that are looking to extend their amigurumi skills.
Meet Magnus the Gnome! Inject some Scandi fun to Christmas with this cheery colourful chappie. You can style his fluffy beard in lots of different ways – how would you style yours?
Another enjoyable character to make, and I would say is perfect for crochet beginners who are looking to make their first amigurumi.
Your Crochet and Knitting magazine. comes complete with an exclusive 4.5mm crochet hook, 4.5mm knitting needles, and 6 balls of yarn and is packed full of simple and fun festive makes and seasonal toys to knit and crochet.
If you make up either the Festive Ted or Magnus the Gnome I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Allow me to introduce the Jardin de Fleur blanket which is available in Issue 97 of Crochet Now magazine. It’s a design I’m hoping might infuse your living space with a bit of Frida Kahlo’s creative spirit!
Mexican artist Frida Kahlo is remembered for her self-portraits and use of bold vibrant colours, and she’s become a recognisable historical figure partly because of her characteristic style and image.
Kahlo often embraced representations of flowers in her work, alongside geometry, to suggest that even if things look opposite, and shouldn’t seemly go together, we are never separate from nature. As a crochet designer I find that nature is a never-ending source of inspiration for me and so guided by Kahlo’s ideas I knew I wanted to use a flower motif combined with something else to create a unique look.
In the end I combined bold 3-D flowers with geometric diamond shapes in lovely bold colours to create a distinctive work of art for your home. The finished blanket is made up of four different motifs and is approx. 143 x 109 cm (56 x 43 inches) in size making it a great to cuddle up with on the sofa.
For my blanket I used Stylecraft Special DK with a 4mm hook in 4 different colours; White (1001), Dandelion (1856), Lipstick (1246) and Lobelia (1825). I think many of us have a Stylecraft stash of yarn for various projects, though if you’re not familiar with it, it’s a versatile 100% acrylic yarn that I’ve used many many times for various crochet projects. It’s available in a large selection of shades, and it’s a soft, durable yarn which is machine washable – making it great for blankets.
If you make up the the Jardin de Fleur Blanket I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I’m really excited to share with you a brand new pattern release today, this design has a bit of a history about it, so bear with me as I introduce to you the Festival Fade Shawl.
The Festival Fade shawl is a unique asymmetric triangular shawl which means that each side of the ‘triangle’ is a different length giving the finished piece a unique look.
Asymmetrical shawls seem to be increasing popular and I wanted to have a go at creating an unusual eye-catching shape.
The shawl came into creation partly due to a conversation I had with the lovely Jess from Hook and Cwtch who I happened to be sitting next to when attending a Crochet Sanctuary weekend in April.
There had been chat, amongst our crochet friends, about attending the Carry on Crafting Festival in July. I hadn’t agreed that I was going, but by the end of the weekend I’d not only checked the dates with my husband for childcare, I’d been offered a lift to get there, and on the Monday I’d booked an Airbnb room and bought my ticket! Sometimes these things happen fast!
What also happened fast was the conversation that continued with Jess…As we both got over excited about going to the Festival (as she’d already booked) we started talking about crochet projects. This then developed into an idea of doing a collaboration between myself, Jess and Amanda from Mrs G Makes (who was also at the Sanctuary that weekend, and who had already booked the Festival).
We wondered about creating an exclusive Carry on Crafting Kit for all the yarny friends we knew that were going to the festival so we could all work on the same project whilst we were there. The kit would include beautiful hand-dyed yarn by Jess, a brand new pattern designed by me and some wonderful goodies from Amanda – and yes I know I’m so lucky to have these wonderful creatives in my life!
We put forward the suggestion to our friends and a resounding YES, DO IT, came back so we started planning and the idea for the pattern and it’s kit was born.
In my last post about my visit to Carry on Crafting I did mention the kit and share a few photos but to recap Jess had outdone herself with her gorgeous colourways and Amanda created an exclusive tote bag, a caravan themed yarn cosy (which perfectly holds the 100g / 800m cake of yarn you are working with), and ultra cute caravan stitch marker.
Jess’s stunning colour palette was made up of 100g (400m) of Retro Camper which was such a pretty mix of pastel pinks and peaches. The 4ply (fingering weight) yarn was a blend of 85% Superwash Extrafine Merino (19.5 micro) and 15% Nylon Yarn.
Then there were five gorgeous sparkly minis (Cadillac Pink, Perfect Pin Up, Vintage Tea Party, Mellow Mint and Cute Camper) which were a blend of 75% Superwash Extrafine Merino (19.5 micro) 15% Nylon Yarn and 10% Silver Stellina Yarn. I so do love a bit of sparkle! To make my shawl I used a 3mm hook (closest US size D/3).
I wanted to create a pretty yet easy shaped shawl where the the yarn would do the talking and Jess had mentioned, as we were chatting, that she liked an asymmetric shape. Added to that triangle I included a wee bit of texture with a mini puff stitch, because I think it’s nice to have a bit of something to run your fingers over.
I used only three other simple stitches which makes it a perfect shawl for beginners once you get used to the pattern repeats. It’s also easy enough to make bigger if you want to by just using the same increase to enlarge.
We had a blast at Carry on Crafting , and it was so wonderful to work on the same project all at the same time – I finished my second version in the new colour way Jess made for me. It had the same mini’s but a different 100g / 800m base and I love how it turned out with the varigated blues and cream to begin with!
And I thought I’d share a photo of one my mum made, she used 2 x 100g of solid colours (so no minis) and she chose not to add the fade but when the textured portion of the pattern started she colour blocked her shades instead. I wouldn’t have necessarily considered using the colours in this way but I love how hers turned out, and I think it’s nice to see other options that different people have used.
The Festival Fade crochet shawl in now available for purchase from usual pattern platforms.
If you were looking to purchase the same yarn as I used Jess has the recipe for the original colours (not my blue version) and is taking pre-orders that would be available at the end of August. Pre-orders open from tomorrow – just drop her a message over at her Etsy shop.
If you loved the yarn cosy or the caravan stitch marker then Mrs G has similar available – take a look at what she has in her Etsy shop.
I can’t wait to see your versions of your Festival Fade Shawls. I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
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Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
I’m delighted to say I’ve got another nostalgic pattern for you today from the world of the Clangers! As all Clanger fans know, their favourite food is soup – and who makes that soup? It’s the Soup Dragon!
If you aren’t familiar with The Clangers, it’s a classic BBC British stop-motion pre-school children’s tv series. It’s about a family of knitted mice-like creatures who live on a small moon-like blue planet.
Now I’m not old enough to remember the original series (which ran between 1969-74), but when I had my eldest daughter my mother-in-law bought us a DVD of The Clangers, which we watched together so the Clangers have a special place in my heart – as they do for many people!
You may remember that I designed a sweet “Clanger” themed mobile for Issue 79 of Crochet Now and now I’m delighted to have created another favourite character from the show, The Soup Dragon in a puppet form. The Soup Dragon: a benign, female creature with a penchant for Green Soup. Clangers only eat green soup which is supplied by the Soup Dragon harvested from the planet’s volcanic soup wells.
The finished puppet is approx. 25 cm (9.8 inches) from nose to cuff and will fit little hands easily; it will also stretch to accommodate adult hands too for adult / child playtime.
For my Soup Dragon puppet I used some Stylecraft Special DK with a 4mm hook in 8 different colours. I think many of us have a Stylecraft stash of yarn for various projects, it’s such a versatile yarn with an amazing selection of shades that cover the whole rainbow several times over. It’s an 100% acrylic yarn that is hard-wearing and machine washable – making it great for toys!
If you make up the The Soup Dragon Puppet I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
I’m bringing the drama today – but in the right way, only to your wardrobe! Allow me to introduce the new Koito Crocodile Cowl!
This perennially chic and effortlessly sophisticated cowl is crying out to be combined with that extra special skein you’ve been saving.
This fabulously dramatic cowl, with it’s showy stitches, was something I’d had in mind ever since I first saw, and then subsequently purchased, some hand dyed yarn called ‘Koi Pond – Showa’ from The Yarn Whisperer.
The yarn is sock weight (4ply) 80% Corriedale wool, 20% nylon with splashes of bright oranges, greys and rich creams. They are the colours you would find on the ‘Showa’ variety of ornamental koi which was Kitey’s inspiration for this particular colourway.
I knew I wanted to create something using a stitch that kind of looked like fish scales which is why I used the crocodile stitch – it’s definitely one of the most unique stitch and texture you can make in crochet. I’m in love with the texture; it’s the type that just makes you want to run your fingers over it!
This pattern is perfect for intermediate crocheters that want to add the crocodile stitch in their repertoire or for adventurous crocheter wanting to learn something new. And it’s now available for purchase from usual pattern platforms – but scroll down to see limited one day special offer to get the pattern for free!
This pattern will be available for FREE from 12pm GMT (8am EST) on 15 March 2023 for 24hrs as part of the Madame Stitches Wraps, Scarves and Cowls: Spring Edition Blog Hop.
2: Click on the button below to go to the Koito Crocodile Cowl on Ravelry.
3: Click “buy it now,” click “use a coupon code,” enter code, click apply and the pattern will be yours for free!
4: If you are reading this after the promotion has passed you can purchase the cowl from any of the links to my patterns stores (links above)
All the patterns from Madame Stitches Wraps, Scarves and Cowls: Spring Edition Blog Hop are available in a limited edition bundle which I wrote about in a previous blog post. Go straight to the bundle via the link below:
It includes all 22 designs featured in the blog hop in one bundle that you can download to your favourite device. You’ll then be able to print out individual patterns as your convenience. This pattern bundle of crochet women’s accessories won’t last for long. It will only be available until Sunday, 26 March2023.
Exclusive Yarn Discount:
I’m delighted to tell you that the most lovely Kitey (aka The Yarn Whisperer), who’s yarn I used for my Koito Crocodile Cowl, is offering 10% discount on his fabulous koi inspired hand-dyed yarn until the end of March 2023. So if you want to make one just like mine you can, isn’t he kind!
Just use coupon code KOITO10on his website (please note this is a different code from the blog hop code).
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I can’t wait to see your versions of the Koito Crocodile Cowl. I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make!
Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, the Dýnami Cable Earwarmer. A great first crochet cable project to create a quick cosy headband.
The idea for this headband came about all because of my friend Sharon who is currently raising money for MIND as she prepares to run the London Marathon (you can watch some of her prep YouTube videos here). As part of her fundraising she was doing a few coffee morning sales, where cake and crochet were combined, and a few of her crochet friends were going to donate some crochet items to help her raise some funds.
As we chatted about what we could provide I got to thinking about headbands / ear warmers, something that runners could potentially use, and plus it’s a cute and cosy accessory for us non-runners out there! So I put my name down for some ear warmers and decided to come up with a brand new design in honour of Sharon’s venture.
The name of the headband ‘dýnami’ comes from the word ‘strength’ in Greek as I was thinking about marathons and having that stamina to run 26.2 miles (42km) – I couldn’t do it so thank goodness for people like Sharon who have the focus and dedication! Plus MIND is a great charity to raise money for, I’m sure everyone knows someone who’s life has been touched by mental health challenges – I know mine has.
So as I’m on a bit of a yarn ban this year (because I seriously have enough yarn to fill a shop) instead of buying I went stash diving for these headbands. I knew I wanted something wool, as wool has the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature, which I thought would be useful if you did want to use the headband whilst out for a run.
In my ample stash I found a load of different colours of Drops LIMA Mix. I actually have no idea what my original plan was for the yarn, as they were a few random different colours, but it was pretty much exactly what I was looking for to create the ear warmers. I would suggest that a solid shade yarn, rather than a variegated yarn, would work best for this patterns so you can see the textured cables.
I actually don’t know why I haven’t used the Drops LIMA Mix before now because it’s LOVELY! I thoroughly enjoyed crocheting with it. The DK (8ply / Light Worsted) yarn comes in 50g (100m / 109yds) balls and is a squishy mix of 65% Wool and 35% Alpaca which is beautifully soft and pleasant to work with.
Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.
Before we get to the pattern if you would like to contribute to Sharon’s fundraising for MIND, before 23 April 2023, then you can on her specific charity page although this pattern is free, if you purchase the PDF pattern before this date any income generated I will pass over for MIND too.
The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.
Materials
Skill Level: 3 – Intermediate
Yarn: Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light),
50g (100m) Drops LIMA mix
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
A single 50g ball will make 1 adult ladies sized headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.
Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.
Finished Sizes:
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Stitch Guidance
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Front post double treble (FPdtr):
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
Pattern Notes
The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st
Pattern
MATERIALS
Yarn Required: 50g / 100m / 109yds of Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light)
Yarn Used in photos:
Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades:
Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610
About the yarn:
Drops Lima Mix; DK; 50g / 100m / 109yds65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
A single 50g ball will make one headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.
Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G/6).
Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.
You will also need:
· A yarn needle
· Stitch Markers
Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)
Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.
Finished size: Guidance provided for adjusting the headband for different sizes given in the pattern.
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
PATTERN NOTES
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
PATTERN
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / and last st of a row.
Row 1 (RS): Ch17, 1htr in the 4th ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, miss 2sts from the last st worked on current row and 4 sts two rows below [FPdtr around the post of the next 2sts, then working back over the FPdtr you’ve just made, FPdtr in the two missed sts], 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, 1htr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, [FPdtr around the post of the 4sts (the FPdtr) two rows below, 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts
Repeat rows 2 – 5 for the pattern;
Approximate measurements given below for different sizes, however for best fit measure the head in question and work until the band measures 1cm / 0.4 inches smaller than required as the headband will stretch.
For sizes greater than the largest size please note you will need more than one ball of yarn.
Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)
Fasten off the yarn on your last row but leave a long yarn tail attached.
FINISHING
Join the two ends of the headband together with the right sides facing each other.
Loosely slip stitch along the row, pushing your hook through both layers of the headband for each stitch, so that you create a seam.
Thread the tail of the yarn through a darning needle and sew a couple of stitches before trimming off the excess. Turn the headband right side out.
And that’s it, enjoy your new headband!
If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Get your little ones hooked on Peanuts early with these adorable official Snoopy and Woodstock baby blanket loveys – out now in issue 91 of Crochet Now magazine
Stars of the Charles M. Schulz’s comic strip Peanuts, and later TV and movies, Snoopy is best known as the pet beagle of Charlie Brown and the small yellow bird, Woodstock, is Snoopy’s best friend. Everybody loves Snoopy and all fans of the iconic series will adore these super soft and cuddly lovey blankets.
There are so many options for little blankets for babies to cuddle and the right toy will do wonders for your kid’s comfort and confidence – my eldest fixed on a lovey as her ‘toy of choice’ so I personally think they are a great toy to make and gift.
I created Snoopy and Woodstock out of some Stylecraft Special DK which is 100% acrylic that comes in 100g balls [295 meters / 323yds] balls, it’s a yarn I’m very familiar with, one I’ve used so many times for different projects including this years crochet along. The only other things you need to make Snoopy and Woodstock is some, stitch markers, a tapestry needle and some toy stuffing.
The lovey section and the tops (hands and arms) are made in the round, working in the amigurumi style of continuous rounds without joining, they would make great beginners patterns for someone who’d like to try making an amigurumi.
Issue 91, with my little Snoopy and Woodstock on the front cover, is full of lovely seasonal patterns and is available to buy from most supermarkets. Or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines
If you make up either Snoopy or Woodstock I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!
The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!
This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.
As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.
If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).
The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!
A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.
Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A
You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.
Finished Size (Unblocked): Part 1 Approximate measurements:
In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.
The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st
PATTERN – PART 1
The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts
Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 5:
Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts, miss 10sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog
See diagram help below for row 7:
Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts, miss 12sts two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 9:
Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 11:
Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn
Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 13:
Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr
See diagram help below for row 15:
Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.
See diagram help below for row 17:
Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.
Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs
See diagram help below for rows 25.
Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs
Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs
Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs
Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts
Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs
Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs
Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs
Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs
Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts
On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.
BORDER:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ] once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total
Rnd 2: Ch1, then work 1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts, (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Pattern in US Terms:
STITCH GUIDANCE
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
SPECIAL STITCH
Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st
PATTERN – PART 1
· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts
Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 5:
Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts, miss 10sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog
See diagram help below for row 7:
Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts, miss 12sts two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 9:
Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 11:
Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 13:
Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr
See diagram help below for row 15:
Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.
See diagram help below for row 17:
Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts
See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.
Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts
Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs
See diagram help below for rows 25.
See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.
Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs
Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs
Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs
Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts
Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts
Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs
Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs
Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs
Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs
Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts
On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.
BORDER:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ] once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total
Rnd 2: Ch1, then work 1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts, (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!
The Schedule, Updates & Support:
As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:
As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.
The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.
Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.
Send a little love to that special someone in your life with Lola the Lovebug. Packed full of love from antennae to the tips of her toes she will be sure to be loved by everyone!
The pattern for Lola, along with her little heart, is available in issue 90 of Crochet Now magazine. Lola comes equipped with delicate hearts on top of her antennae making her a true love bug! She was a really fun project to work on, and you could make her holding the heart, or leave it separate, or why not even embroider the initials of someone special onto the front.
I created my lovebug with a 3mm hook out of some James C. Brett It’s 100% Pure Cotton which is 100% cotton that comes in 100g [215 meters / 235yds] balls and, for a cotton, is lovely and soft.
Nothing says I love you as much as something handmade I think. She would make the perfect pick-me-up gift for someone special this Valentine’s Day or any other day.
If you make up Lola the Lovebug I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.
Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.
