Guest Blog Post | Tapestry Crochet for Blanket Lovers

Today Iโ€™m trying something completely new here on the blog, for the very first time, Iโ€™m handing over the reins for a guest post. And honestly, I couldnโ€™t think of anyone better to trust with it than the very capable hands of Catherine from Catherine Crochets.

I first met Catherine at the Crochet Sanctuary back in December 2022, and you may remember that I interviewed her for the blog shortly afterwards (you can read that interview here). Since then, weโ€™ve kept in touch over socials, and Iโ€™ve continued to admire both her creativity and her knowledge of crochet.

So today, Iโ€™m delighted to bring some of Catherineโ€™s wealth of expertise on blanket making to the blog. Whether youโ€™re just getting started or already have a pile of cosy creations to your name, I know youโ€™re going to love what she has to share. So, without further adoโ€ฆ Iโ€™m going to hand you over to Catherine!

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Close-up of a colourful tapestry crochet blanket design featuring geometric patterns in teal and navy blue against a cream background.

The Technique That Sparked My Blanket Journey (And Might Just Spark Yours)

The first tapestry crochet project I ever made was not a blanket. It was a small geometric accessory – a bag or a mat, I think – and I remember looking at it when it was finished and thinking: that would be extraordinary across a full blanket.

So I tried it. I picked a few geometric patterns, sketched them out on some squared paper, and spent a happy few weeks making what became my Geo Georgie Blanket – a collection of diamonds, triangles and zig-zags worked in tapestry crochet.

It started as a bit of an experiment, really: I wanted to see how the technique would behave at blanket scale, and whether the designs I had in mind would translate. But I absolutely loved making it. The photos got a wonderful response when I shared them, and before I quite knew what was happening, the pattern was being tested and I was releasing my first ever blanket design. I also finished it with a head full of ideas – designs I wanted to try next, motifs I hadn’t explored yet, new ways of working the technique. That feeling hasn’t ever really left me since.

A close-up view of a crocheted tapestry blanket featuring intricate geometric patterns in shades of black, white, and grey.
Geo Georgie tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

That was the beginning of what has become my primary design focus. Since then, I’ve designed tapestry crochet blankets worked in rows, in the round, and from square and hexagon motifs. I’ve explored geometric patterns, botanical designs, and more pictorial, figurative work.

My Midnight Diamond Blanket, which also started off as a bit of an experiment, has now been made by over 3,000 crocheters, which still feels fairly remarkable to me. And the technique continues to surprise me with what it can do.

A cosy tapestry crochet blanket with a geometric pattern in navy blue and cream draped over a dark blue armchair.
Midnight Diamond tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

I’m sharing all of this with you because I know tapestry crochet has bit of a reputation for being complicated or tricky. And I want to gently push back on that.

What tapestry crochet actually involves

At its heart, tapestry crochet is a colourwork technique. You work with two or more colours at the same time, crocheting over the unused strand so it’s neatly enclosed within the stitches, rather than left as a float on the back, as you might see in some knitting colourwork. The result is a clean, structured fabric with the graphic design visible on both sides – and a much tidier back than you might expect from a colourwork technique.

You can work tapestry crochet with any stitch, and the choice affects how the finished fabric looks and behaves. I most often use UK treble (US double crochet) in my blankets, though some designs call for half treble (US half double) crochet or extended double (US single crochet) depending on the stitch proportions I want to use, the yarn Iโ€™m using, and the feel or drape I want to create.

A vibrant crocheted blanket featuring a hexagonal pattern with colourful star motifs in red, blue, green, yellow, and purple, along with a light blue yarn ball and a crochet hook beside it.
The Super Stars tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

If you can already work basic crochet stitches and change colours, you have the core skills. The rest is about managing your carried yarn and following the colour instructions – both of which are more straightforward than they sound.

My patterns are primarily written instructions: for each row, you simply follow the stitch counts step by step, working the colours as directed. I also include a chart alongside the written pattern – a grid where each square represents one stitch and the colour of the square tells you which yarn to use. It’s very similar to following a cross stitch chart, if you’ve ever done that. Some people prefer to work entirely from the written instructions; others like to use the chart alongside them, or switch between the two. Either way, once you’ve worked a row or two, the rhythm becomes quite natural.

One technique, a remarkable range of results

This is something I find genuinely exciting about tapestry crochet: the design possibilities are enormous, and so is the range of construction methods you can use, each of which opens up different kinds of colourwork pattern. A blanket also gives you real space to work with. A small accessory gives you a glimpse of a design; a blanket lets it breathe and develop across a much larger canvas, which is part of why I find the two such a natural combination.

Working in rows is the most straightforward place to start. It lends itself well to geometric designs but can also handle softer or more figurative designs really well too. The simplicity of back-and-forth rows makes it easy to build confidence while still producing something that looks genuinely striking. My Jora Blanket is a good example: a clean geometric pattern in rows, with a repeat that becomes almost meditative once your hands know it.

A tapestry crochet blanket with a geometric pattern of yellow and white diamonds, surrounded by skeins of yarn in yellow and white, along with crafting tools.
Jora geometric tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

Working from motifs

Squares or hexagons open up a whole other set of possibilities. Designs with rotational symmetry work beautifully as individual motifs: flowers, stars, snowflakes, and geometric shapes that radiate from a centre all sit naturally within a square or hexagon format. But one of the things I love most about the motif approach is what can happen when you join them. The colourwork pattern doesn’t have to stop at the edge of each tile – it can be designed to continue across the joins, so the finished blanket reads as one large, flowing design. The effect is a bit like decorative ceramic tiles, where the pattern seems to extend endlessly across the surface.

Working in the round

Treating the whole blanket as one large piece worked outward from the centre produces results that are quite different again. My Cara Blanket is a good example: a square baby blanket with a ring of hearts that radiates outward as you work. This construction suits designs where the pattern builds concentrically – hearts, leaves, trees, or other motifs that you want to place at the heart of the blanket and surround with complementary rounds of pattern.

A close-up of a crocheted tapestry piece featuring light and dark blue hearts against a light green background, with a ball of yarn nearby.

And across all of these construction methods, the subject matter of the colourwork can range widely. Tapestry crochet handles clean geometric shapes beautifully, but it’s equally capable of softer, more organic forms like botanical designs, leaf shapes, and gentle curves. With a little chart planning, you can even work figurative or pictorial designs: fish, trees, and even people. The technique is far more flexible than its reputation suggests.

A word of warning

There is one quality of tapestry crochet that I should probably mention, in the spirit of full disclosure: it is genuinely addictive in a way that other techniques aren’t quite so much.

The reason for this, I think, is the colourwork. Because you’re watching a design emerge stitch by stitch, there’s always a reason to work just one more row or round. The pattern reveals itself gradually – a diamond beginning to form, a star coming into focus, a border starting to click into place – and it’s very hard to put down when you can see that another row will show you just a little more. I have lost more evenings than I care to admit to this particular quality of the technique. Consider yourself warned.

Close-up of tapestry crocheted hexagonal patches featuring blue flowers with green leaves, surrounded by various yarn balls.
Waltz of the Flowers Blanket tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

The things that trip people up (and how to avoid them)

There are a few areas where tapestry crochet beginners tend to struggle, and I’d rather mention them now than leave you to discover them mid-project.

Yarn tangling is the thing people often worry about most – and it’s also the most preventable. The key is to keep each yarn ball in a consistent position relative to your work, and to always pick up each colour from that same position. When you do this, the yarns never cross, so they never tangle. This short video tutorial shows exactly how it works in practice.

The carried yarn showing through is the other thing worth understanding before you begin. Because the unused yarn is carried inside your stitches, the goal is to keep it as well hidden as possible, although a little showing through here and there is generally fine in practice. It can add to the overall visual texture, and at the natural viewing distance of a finished blanket it’s rarely noticeable at all. That said, it’s still worth knowing the techniques that minimise it, since the results will be cleaner and more even.

There are four main things that help:

  • giving the carried yarn a gentle tug each time you pick it up (to seat it snugly behind the stitches just worked);
  • using a slightly smaller hook than your yarn label suggests;
  • choosing a smooth yarn with good stitch definition; and
  • thinking carefully about colour combinations, since a light yarn carried behind dark stitches is always going to be harder to conceal than colours that are close in tone.

I’ve written a full guide to hiding the carried yarn in tapestry crochet if you’d like to explore this further.

Close-up of a decorative tapestry crochet blanket featuring a geometric floral pattern in teal and navy blue against a cream background.
Clarissa tapestry crochet blanket ยฉ Catherine Crochets

Where to start

For choosing a first project, I’d suggest looking through my guide to the best tapestry crochet blanket patterns for beginners, which walks through what to look for and includes some specific recommendations. In short: a two-colour design with a simple repeating pattern is a much more enjoyable starting point than something with multiple colours and a complex chart – and the result will still be something you’re genuinely proud of.

If you’d like to explore the technique more broadly, I have a full tapestry crochet resource hub on my website, covering everything from reading charts and choosing yarn to construction methods and finishing.

And if you’d like to try a smaller first tapestry project, I’d love you to join my email list. When you sign up, you’ll receive two free patterns chosen specifically as introductions to tapestry crochet. One is a scarf worked in rows and the other is a square motif with a star design, so you can explore both approaches and see which suits you best. You can sign up to receive the free patterns here.

Tapestry crochet opened up a whole world of creative possibilities I hadn’t imagined when I first picked it up. I hope it does the same for you.


A woman with glasses smiles while crocheting, wearing a maroon sweater. Two crochet blankets with intricate designs in turquoise and cream, and yellow and cream patterns are displayed.
ยฉ Catherine, crochet designer and founder of Catherine Crochets

Catherine designs crochet blankets and accessories, with a particular focus on tapestry crochet and colourwork. Her patterns are published on Etsy and Ravelry, and she has designed for Sirdar and WeCrochet. She has also been published in crochet magazines and the book 100 Crochet Tiles. You can find her tutorials, resources and patterns at catherinecrochets.com.

A huge thank you to Catherine for sharing her time, expertise, and creativity in this guest post – itโ€™s been such a pleasure to feature her work here on the blog.

I hope youโ€™ve enjoyed this closer look at tapestry crochet, itโ€™s definitely inspired me to try more of the technique myself at some point, especially after seeing just how many creative possibilities it opens up.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Stylized handwritten text displaying the name 'Heather xo'

P.S. Make sure youโ€™re subscribed to the blog (below) and/or my mailing list to stay updated on new blog posts, pattern releases, and exclusive discounts!

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Stretch Your Stash: How Affordable Premium Yarns Can Make Your Hand-Dyed Treasures Shine

If youโ€™re a yarn lover like me, you probably have a few (or more than a few!) hand-dyed skeins tucked away – those beautiful, one-of-a-kind colours that feel too special to use without just the right project. But hereโ€™s the secret: pairing those precious skeins with affordable premium yarns can not only make them go further, but also make them stand out more than ever!

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A flat lay featuring various hand-dyed yarn skeins in soft pastel colors, alongside neutral-toned yarn, a notebook, and writing utensils, with a title overlay promoting yarn usage tips.

Whether you’re creating a shawl, a sweater, or even socks, combining your hand-dyed yarns with high-quality basics lets you get creative without blowing your budget – or leaving those treasures languishing in the stash.

Thereโ€™s just something about mixing a plain, solid yarn with a colourful one that makes my heart happy; especially when that colourful yarn is a gorgeous hand-dyed skein. I find the contrast really lets the colours shine without feeling overwhelming, and itโ€™s a combo Iโ€™ve come back to again and again in my designs. Just look at my little collage below – I think it really shows how much I love playing with that balance!

A collage of various crocheted shawls and scarves displayed on mannequins and models, showcasing different colors and patterns, with a logo that reads 'Keep Calm & Crochet On UK'.

Why Mix and Match?

  • Stretch Your Yardage โ€“ Instead of needing four or five skeins of hand-dyed yarn for a project, you might only need one or two if paired with a coordinating base.
  • Let It Pop โ€“ A semi-solid or speckled hand-dyed skein can shine as a feature when combined with a neutral or tonal companion yarn.
  • Balance Cost and Beauty โ€“ High-quality commercial yarns often come in at a lower price point, giving you more freedom to plan larger projects.
  • Create Contrast and Texture โ€“ Mixing yarns with slightly different textures or sheens can add real visual interest to your work.
  • Make Bigger Projects More Accessible โ€“ Want to make a hand-dyed yarn blanket or sweater? Using affordable companion yarns lets you scale up your projects without blowing your whole bank balance.

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A graphic featuring tips for selecting affordable yarns to pair with hand-dyed skeins, set against a textured beige background.

What to Look For in Companion Yarns

When choosing affordable yarns to pair with your hand-dyed skeins, look for:

  • A similar fibre content (especially important for blocking and drape)
  • A matching yarn weight (you can usually find this information on the ball band)
  • A neutral or complimentary colour that enhances, rather than competes with, your feature skein (greys, beiges, creams and whites neutrals and it personal preference for complimentary)
  • Reliable qualityโ€”soft enough for your project, durable enough to wear

Flat lay of various neutral coloured 4ply premium yarns. On the desk there is also a notepad and crochet accessories.

My Favourite Pairings โ€“ 4ply (Fingering) Weight

Hereโ€™s where Iโ€™ll be adding and updating an A-Z list of my go-to budget-friendly 4ply yarns that pair beautifully with hand-dyed beautiesโ€”so be sure to bookmark this post!


My Favourite Pairings โ€“ DK (Light Worsted) Weight

An alphabetical list which are the perfect partners of DK yarns for your special skeins.

Flat lay of various neutral coloured DK yarns against some vibrant  hand-dyed options. On the desk there is also a notepad and crochet accessories.

My Favourite Pairings โ€“ Aran (Worsted) Weight

Keep an eye on this space for an Aโ€“Z list of Aran (Worsted) weight yarns that pair beautifully with your cherished hand-dyed skeins.

  • Cascade 220 Superwash Aran; 100g / 137m, 100% Merino Wool,
  • Cascade Yarns ReVive; 100g, 180m, 100% Wool,
  • Drops Nepal; 50g / 75m, 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
  • King Cole Wool Aran; 100g / 180m, 100% Wool,
  • MillaMia Naturally Soft Aran; 50g / 80m, 100% Merino Wool
  • Paintbox Yarns 100% Wool Worsted Superwash; 100g / 200m, 100% Wool
  • Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran; 50g / 90m, 100% Merino Wool
  • Valley Yarns Amherst; 100g / 100m, 100% Merino Wool,
  • West Yorkshire Spinners The Croft Aran; 100g / 166m, 100% Shetland Island Wool

As I discover new combinations and test them out in my own projects, Iโ€™ll keep adding to these listsโ€”so donโ€™t forget to save this post and check back! Got a pairing you love? Iโ€™d love to hear about it in the comments.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

A collection of colorful hand-dyed yarn skeins arranged artistically, showcasing their unique textures and vibrant hues, perfect for knitting or crocheting projects.

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Tutorial | How to Read a Crochet Chart

With theย Enchanted Wood Crochet Alongย starting later today (yippee!) I thought Iโ€™d just take a moment to talk a little bit about reading crochet charts for anyone that might not be so familiar with the technique.

Crochet charts shouldn’t be seen as scary! It’s a skill that is easy to learn once you’ve got the starting know-how and get a bit of practice. Being able to read a crochet chart (or diagram) can really expand your options for working with different types of crochet patterns – it can also be a helpful visual tool for using along side a written pattern.

Reading Crochet Charts Tips and Tricks Blog Post Banner Image

With my more recent patterns, where relevant, I try to add a chart as extra information – this is definitely the case with the Enchanted Wood blanket. So I thought a blog post before we start could prove useful.

What is a crochet chart?

A crochet chart is usually a visual representation of a crochet pattern using crochet symbols. I’m going to specifically be talking about crochet symbol charts in this post. These are a little different from filet, C2C or tapestry charts which might be shown in as blocks to show colour or groups of the same stitch (I have done posts about reading tapestry charts and reading filet charts if you want to check those out).

Crochet charts can be provided for projects in rows or in rounds (for things like motifs – think granny squares), it’s unusual to see charts for things like amigurumi (though it is more common in Japanese crochet).

Crochet Symbols

For pretty much every crochet stitch that exists there is a matching crochet symbol. Each crochet stitch has a standard symbol that most people use (making charts a great way to work a pattern that’s written in a different language). You will find that many people use the US Craft Yarn Council’s chart symbols, but there should always be a pattern key for symbols accompanying a chart that you can refer to.

Crochet Chart Symbols with symbols and terminology of 6 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Many times the crochet symbol will look like the stitch you are going to create; the chain stitch, for example, is depicted as an oval that is basically the line representation of what a chain stitch looks like when worked in yarn.

Post stitches have a “hook” at the bottom representing that you hook it over the post and they will point in the direction that you would work that stitch.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 5 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Lines in the middle of a stitch symbol represent the yarn overs, so for a treble crochet (US double crochet) looks like a T with a single line across the bar – so there is one ‘yarn over’, a double treble (US treble) looks like a T with two lines across the bar – for two ‘yarn overs’.

Shell stitches or textured bobble, puff and popcorn stitches will be shown as being worked in one stitch by a complete symbol. Sometimes how symbols for stitches like bobbles, puffs and popcorns may look a little different so it’s always important to refer to the chart key to be sure.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 4 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Once you get familiar with the symbols that represent each stitch, it’s fairly easy to read crochet symbols and the subsequent charts. They are designed to read exactly like they look!

Reading a Chart

You will find, when it comes to reading charts, that most are written for right handed crocheters (unless specifically specified), basically that means that the chart should be reversed if you are left-handed. This can be done mentally or through a physical reproduction – try doing a reverse image on your computer with photo editing tools.

To work from a crochet chart in rows, start from the bottom left and work the foundation chain from left to right (if youโ€™re right-handed). Then work Row 1, starting at the bottom right of the diagram and working each stitch towards the left. Then work Row 2 from the left side towards the right, and so on. The row numbers are usually placed at the start of each row, though rows can be depicted by dots or nothing at all if it’s clear where a row starts and ends – my top tip is to look for the starting chains.

The image below shows a section of my Shining Light wedding wrap (free pattern here on the blog):

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart with rows

Round-based symbol charts are worked from the inside out, starting in the centre and working counter clockwise (for right-handed crocheters). It’s a little harder to fit row numbers on patterns worked in the round so it can be useful to look for starting chains or slip stitches to give you a clue as you know from experience with crochet that that is where you will begin.

The image below shows a classic granny square pattern which is worked in the round:

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart in the round

Typically stitches are worked through both loops. However, there are exceptions where stitches are worked in the front or back loop only. Again there will be a symbol to represent this change in how you do the stitch.

If a chart is large, that would take up a lot of space in a pattern, then you might find information presented as a partial chart. It should still contain all the information you need, it’s most likely that the stitches are repeated which means it’s been able to be condensed.

Keeping Track

It can be helpful, as you work with charts, to mark of the rows as you go so you don’t lose track of where you are. This can be done with marks on the diagram, using a ruler, or by using a row counter. You also might find it useful to use stitch markers to track your rows and stitches.

And if you get lost in a crochet pattern that has a chart then looking at a diagram can help! Your crochet piece should be the same as the diagram so using a chart can be a great visible way to help you find your place quickly.

I hope you find that helpful before we begin ourย Enchanted Wood CALย journey where you will get plenty of opportunity to hone your new chart reading skills!

Good luck with your chart reading, feel free to drop any comments or any other helpful tips you’ve found with crochet charts below.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tips for Crocheting with Slub Yarn

Have you ever crocheted with slub yarn before? Or actually even heard of it? As that’s the type of yarn we are going to be using in the upcoming summer make-along – Whispers of the Sea. I thought you might find a post with a little bit about slub yarn useful and I’ve also included some of my top tips for working with this type yarn.

What is Slub Yarn?

Slub yarn is such a beautiful yarn, its sometimes called thick and thin, or fancy yarn, because it’s been deliberately spun in a way that creates both thin and thick sections along its length.

Slub yarn can either have quite thick sections combined with thin sections or random little bumps, aka ‘slubs’ combined with a normal plied yarn. As a yarn is spun, the machine periodically twists the yarn creating these slubs on the surface; these can be placed close together or far apart.

The gorgeously dyed slub yarn by The Yarn Whisperer, for the MAL, I would say has really gentle soft slubs at quite regular intervals, this is combined with a beautiful, slightly crimped effect, plied yarn. This was something I took into consideration as I designed the MAL wrap.

Other slub yarns may have more random distribution of slubs – so choosing the right pattern for slub yarn is something to consider before diving in.

Top Tips for working with Slub Yarn:

My first tip would definitely be around taking the time to choose the right pattern;

  • There are no rules for what you could potentially use slub yarn for, but I personally, for a first slub pattern, would steer clear from projects with too intricate stitch patterns because your stitch detail will just be lost in the texture!
  • Look for patterns with fairly simple stitches as the yarn already has such wonderful character on its surface. Find a pattern that let’s the yarn do the talking!
  • To compensate for the uneven thickness of the yarn look for patterns that have regular stitches of the same sort of heights throughout. Combination patterns of chains, double crochet (US single crochet), half trebles (US half double crochet) or trebles (US double crochet) would work well and show up the slubs in the yarn.

My second tip for working with highly textured yarns is to remember to count your stitches often; it can be quite easy to miss a stitch or make two stitches in one. When working in rounds or rows you may find using a stitch marker to mark the start (and the end) of each row useful.

Tip three; frogging happens! But when it comes to ripping back slub yarn do it slowly so as not to break the yarn. If you do have to frog your work back, pull gently and manipulate any slubs through stitch loops with your fingers to help pull loose.

My fourth tip is that some slub yarn can be quite springy, make sure you hold a good tension as you work and don’t crochet too tightly. You may find using a slightly large hook size, than recommended, an advantage if you know that you have a tight tension – though be careful to check gauge if the pattern is size specific.

My last tip is really try and ignore the slubs! Just crochet as normal – it may seem strange at first but you will not notice the slubs as you get into your normal rhythm of stitching.

It might sound a little intimidating to work with something so unusual, but although it can take a little getting used to, slub yarn creates such a lovely and wonderfully interesting surface texture that’s worth persevering for. The plus side of using this artistic looking yarn is that’s it’s already brimming with creativity – so whatever you make from it is guaranteed to have amazing texture and personality!

I’m so pleased that I had the opportunity to work with the amazing slub yarn from the wonderful Yarn Whisperer; it was really important to me to find the best technique that allowed me to show the amazing yarn off to it’s full potential and create something with real personality! I hope my tips will help you with any future slub projects.

I absolutely love the way that slub yarn looks, especially when it’s in hand dyed form, because the combination of gorgeous texture and colours together can become something truly unique and wonderful!

If you don’t have any slub yarn in your stash yet then I hope this will make you think you need to find out what you are missing out on – I know for sure that there will be definitely be more slub yarn added to my stash in future! I’ve decided there definitely needs to be crochet slub patterns in the world! What do you think? Have you used slub yarn before? Are there any other tips you can think of that might also be useful? I hope you will drop them in the comments below.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Top Tips for Filet Crochet

With the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along starting next week (yippee!) I thought I’d just take a moment to talk a little bit about ‘filet crochet’ for anyone that might not be so familiar with the technique.

So what is Filet Crochet?

Filet crochet is a technique with which you can create wonderful pictures, words, and intricate patterns using solid blocks of stitches combined with open mesh.

‘Filet’ derives from the word ‘net’ in French, as it’s thought to have its roots in how fishermen mended their nets. Its also one of the oldest and simplest forms of crochet. Commonly filet will call for UK treble crochet (tr) / US double crochet (dc), to create blocks, and a chain stitch, to create the open mesh, but other stitches can be used. You can produce a simple all-over net type fabric or work from a chart to produce a patterned motif.

I do love filet crochet, in fact the first thing I ever purposefully made and that started my whole crochet journey, to what it is now, was this Filet Crochet Bunny Blanket by Red Heart Yarns. I chose this pattern as I was just drawn to how you could use simple stitches to create an image and I loved the results.

ยฉ Red Heart Filet Crochet Bunny Blanket

For whatever reason I think filet seems to be a technique that people perhaps consider as a little old fashioned, or something that people are a little scared of to try, or think of it specifically made with teeny tiny hooks (eek!) and proper crochet thread (yikes!).

I think it’s a technique that’s ultimately so satisfying when you’ve finished as it’s so effective to look at – I’m hoping that the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along will help others to love filet crochet too!

Understanding a filet crochet pattern:

Part of the difference about filet crochet is understanding how the instructions are usually laid out. Filet pattern instructions can be written, but they very often just come in the form as a chart. On most filet charts ‘spaces’ are represented by the blank squares and the ‘blocks’ by the filled in squares. Have a look at the filet chart I have created below:

The squares and the blank squares represent stitches, which if written in symbol form would look like this:

The vertical stitches are usually UK treble (tr) / US double crochet (dc) and the horizontal bars a chain space. So each filled block would be 3tr (3dc) and each blank block would be 1tr, ch1,1tr (1dc, ch1, 1dc).

Some patterns use 4 tr/dc to form a block, while other patterns might use a 2ch for a blank block, it’s important to check the pattern instructions to make sure you know what stitches you need to work.  

You’ll usually begin the project with a starting chain (in the instance of the chart above it’s a ch29). In the chart below I’ve added the stitch symbols and the chart together so you can see how they correspond.

Tips to reading a filet crochet pattern chart:

  1. Unless otherwise stated you read odd rows of a chart from right to left, even rows from left to right; though if your pattern is symmetrical it doesn’t make that much difference. So right-handed crocheters should begin on the right side of the chart for row 1 and work from left to right for row 2. If you are left-handed, you would begin the same chart on the left side for row 1.
  2. In an asymmetrical pattern you really need to pay attention to which direction youโ€™re going or wonky images will occur!
  3. You usually read (start) the chart from the bottom, and complete the rows upward.
  4. On rows where you have to work a tr/dc either into the chain space (ch-sp), you can chose to work it either into the ch1 of the ch-sp or into the ch-sp itself – it’s all personal preference. I work mine into the ch-sp as it’s faster!
  5. Keep track of your progress by ticking off the row you’ve just completed, or use a sheet of paper and lay it over your chart and move it up each time you finish a row – there’s nothing worse that realising you’ve just worked the same row twice!
  6. Check your work after you complete a row, (even when you are more familiar with filet crochet patterns) it’s easy to miss a stitch or misalign a block that can throw the end design off – and there’s nothing worse than frogging five rows back or more!

Why not have a go at creating a test swatch from the chart above, it’s a nice symmetrical pattern to start with so it won’t matter which way you read the chart.

In the Filet Fantastic pattern there are both symmetrical and asymmetrical designs that we will create. As well as a helpful chart I have included the written instructions. But learning how to read a filet crochet chart is a useful skill to tuck under your belt!

For those that might prefer the written instructions to the filet chart above I’ll add the text version / pattern on a future post. But a 3mm hook (US size C/2) hook and about 10g / 26m of yarn (I used Scheepjes Riverwashed and Scheepjes Stonewashed for my swatches) you can create a square roughly 13.5cm x 13.5cm.

Tip: If you find that your tr / dc’s are on the short side and you create a rectangle instead of a square you might try replacing your tr/dc’s with an extended treble / double crochet (etr / edc) as follows: Yarn over, insert your hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through 1 loop on your hook (yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice.

My free mini filet afghan square (link to Ravelry) is a good first foray into filet if you are looking to give the technique another try, this time working in the round, or I also have some other designs (links below for different pattern platforms) where I have also incorporated my love of filet into a design:

ETSYRAVELRYLOVECRAFTS
Flourite Filet CowlFlourite Filet CowlFlourite Filet Cowl
Bordered Heart Filet BlanketBordered Heart Filet Blanket

But there really isn’t long to wait now before we begin our Filet Fantastic CAL journey where you will get plenty of opportunity to hone your new filet skills! I for one can’t wait to see your results.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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How to repair a broken granny square blanket

I was recently asked by the owner of the Artisan Boutique, where I sometimes do some crochet workshops, if it would be possible to mend a customers granny square blanket for her.

Image shows a knitted and crocheted blanket, the crocheted section shows a granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

The blanket had been so well loved, and passed through a variety of different children in the family, that some of the squares had unravelled or almost disintegrated entirely!

Another image of the knitted and crocheted blanket, the crocheted section shows another granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

The blanket was in a very sorry state with nine squares in total needing repair but I thought it could be fixed successfully – and I thought you guys might find it useful to know how to repair a granny square blanket too, just in case you are ever faced with a broken granny situation.

Close up shot of a hand holding a section of granny square that has become unravelled from a blanket.

Repairing a granny square does take a bit of time! Depending on the severity of hole and the size of the square you’ll need to fix you’ll firstly want to choose a time where you can concentrate and be uninterrupted, as once you are in the process of repairing you really don’t want to be having to get up and run around somewhere.

Image shows a close up of a crocheted granny square that has become unravelled in a blanket.

To give you an example of time to set aside most of the squares I had to fix were of four rounds – and it took me at least an hour to make the new piece and fix that into place (and I’ve been told I’m not a slow crocheter). You could make a fair few brand new granny squares in that time. But for those blankets steeped in family stories and history that NEED to be kept as a keepsake, this method can be a perfect lifesaver!

This method is for any blanket that has a granny square that has unravelled from the centre but that has salvageable sections on the outer edges of the square.

Image shows a knitted and crocheted blanket, a hand is holding a section that shows a granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

What you will need:

  • Scrap bits of yarn roughly matching the yarn weight, fibre content (e.g. acrylic) and colours of the square you are going to replace,
  • A crochet hook to match the previous gauge, I do this by eye but roughly you’d probably use a 4mm (US size G) for DK (Light Worsted) or 5mm (US size H) for Aran (Worsted). If you are not sure make up a square with a hook first and see if it will fit the gap. A bit smaller is better, then it won’t be prone to sagging when it’s washed at a later date.
  • Sharp pair of scissors,
  • Lots of stitch markers with enough space on them to hold a cluster of three stitches,
  • A large wool / tapestry needle,
  • Optional: A small crochet hook (such as a 2.75 / US size C) to help pass the loop through stitches.
  • Optional: A table. Whilst you can make repairs with your crochet on your knee you’ll find it infinitely easier to fix broken squares working on a flat surface with you sitting comfortably!

Step 1:

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It’s important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Sometimes you can save the centre of a square, you have cut away, to use again on a new square, just unravel where possible and use the yarn to remake your new granny square.

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It's important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Step 2:

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Step 3:

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Step 4:

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Step 5:

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Step 6:

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

Remove the stitch marker from the end of the cluster you have just passed your yarn / loop through. Double check that your square is still in the right place – it’s very easy to misalign your squares as you work!

To complete a corner, work the first granny square stitches next to the corner as usual, then thread the yarn / loop, through the bottom of TWO cluster of granny stitches (that form the corner), ch2, and then work the next granny square stitches as normal. Adjust the ch2 so that it fits through the bottom of the two clusters of granny stitches.

Step 7:

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

And that’s it!

I hope that this tutorial helps your old blankets live on for many more years to come! Let me know if you find this tutorial useful, I’d love to hear the tales of blankets that have been saved!

Image shows a beautiful brightly coloured heirloom knitted and crocheted blanket

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial

So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen myย review of Anchorย Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor craftsย kindly sent me to try.ย  I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

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I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row.ย 

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

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Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

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Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

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Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

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Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

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Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

Anchor-Tut06

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are oftenย  two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

Anchor-Tapestry-Crochet-03

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorialย  chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Moroccan Window | Nuts About Squares CAL

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So we are now up to week 10 on theย Nuts About Squares CALย and I’mย delighted thatย my Moroccan Window block (originally designed for myย 2015 CAL) has beenย featured alongside ‘Sweet and Fair‘ by theย wonderfully talented designer Julie Yeager (I love her block designs!).

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Don’t worry if this is the first time you are hearing about the CAL you can find all the information about itย HEREย on the It’s All in A Nutshellย website.ย 

Once again the very talented Esther has created an accompanying step-by-step video showing how to crochet myย square.ย 

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And once again I’m inย LOVE with how the block looksย in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful workโ€ฆ

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And the Moroccan Window block has now alsoย been translated into Dutch too! The update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it.ย  If you are joining inย with the CALย please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares andย #kcacoukย  #moroccanwindowย too โ€“ canโ€™t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Margaretโ€™s Hug Healing Prayer Shawl | Free Crochet Chart

I think I have said before that one of the patterns I am most proud of isย myย Margaretโ€™s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl. Since I shared this free pattern, and theย story of it’s creation, in February 2014ย on Ravelry alone it has now been downloaded over 40 thousand times!

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Some of you have asked after my mother-in-law, after who the shawl was named, and I’m sorry to say that she lost her battle with cancer nearly two yearsย ago. ย Margaret was a midwife / nurse all her working life and a kinder, more caring person you couldn’t wish to meet – she is very much missed by us all everyday! But I believe her legacy lives on in the idea of thisย shawl;ย I’m sure she would love the idea of herย namesake being used to support people inย need.

Many of you have shared your your own projects and your own stories about making the shawl for yourselves and for others. Iย want to thank you all for sharing details of what has often been a challenging time for you, friends and family – and for anyone still struggling I send you much love and well wishes.ย 

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I have had a few people contact me to say they have had trouble making up the shawl, I did make a rather shaky video (available here) to try and help. I’ll be the first to admit it’s not the best demonstrationย and I will hopefully be working on making aย better videoย as soon as I’m able! But in the interim I thought charting up the pattern for you might help.ย 

Margaret-Shawl-Chart

The downloadable pattern has now been updated with the chart and is available for download from Ravelry andย LoveCrochet.com.

This shawl will always beย a free pattern so others can make a hug for someone in need; however if you would like to pass on the couple of pounds/dollars you would have paid for this pattern to Cancer Researchย then that would make you extremelyย awesome!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Bavarian Beauty | Nuts About Squares CAL

You may remember me telling you about theย Nuts About Squares CAL whichย started on 31 March. ย Don’t worry though if you missed it there’s still plenty of time to catch up – theย Information Post for the CAL can be foundย HERE.ย 

Nuts about Squares CAL Scheepjes_C2

I’m very excited to announce that my Bavarian Beauty Block is Part 6 of the CAL. ย You may remember I designed this pattern for my 2015 CAL. Iย did add some photo tutorials to the patternย originally, to help make up the block, but Esther from It’s All in a Nutshellย has now also created a fabulousย instructional video (in US terms)ย to accompanyย the block.ย 

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Along with the video for my block youย can find a playlist of all the video tutorials for the CALย as they are released HERE.

I’m just in LOVE with how the block looksย in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…

Bavarian-Beauty-4

Bavarian-Beauty-1

Bavarian-Beauty-3ย 

I’m also very excited that I have now been translated into Dutch for the first time (Goedenavond alle Nederlandse haaksters!), the update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it.ย  If you are joining inย with the CALย please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares andย #kcacoukย  #bavarianbeautyย too – can’t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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