Tutorial | How to Read a Crochet Chart

With the Enchanted Wood Crochet Along starting later today (yippee!) I thought I’d just take a moment to talk a little bit about reading crochet charts for anyone that might not be so familiar with the technique.

Crochet charts shouldn’t be seen as scary! It’s a skill that is easy to learn once you’ve got the starting know-how and get a bit of practice. Being able to read a crochet chart (or diagram) can really expand your options for working with different types of crochet patterns – it can also be a helpful visual tool for using along side a written pattern.

Reading Crochet Charts Tips and Tricks Blog Post Banner Image

With my more recent patterns, where relevant, I try to add a chart as extra information – this is definitely the case with the Enchanted Wood blanket. So I thought a blog post before we start could prove useful.

What is a crochet chart?

A crochet chart is usually a visual representation of a crochet pattern using crochet symbols. I’m going to specifically be talking about crochet symbol charts in this post. These are a little different from filet, C2C or tapestry charts which might be shown in as blocks to show colour or groups of the same stitch (I have done posts about reading tapestry charts and reading filet charts if you want to check those out).

Crochet charts can be provided for projects in rows or in rounds (for things like motifs – think granny squares), it’s unusual to see charts for things like amigurumi (though it is more common in Japanese crochet).

Crochet Symbols

For pretty much every crochet stitch that exists there is a matching crochet symbol. Each crochet stitch has a standard symbol that most people use (making charts a great way to work a pattern that’s written in a different language). You will find that many people use the US Craft Yarn Council’s chart symbols, but there should always be a pattern key for symbols accompanying a chart that you can refer to.

Crochet Chart Symbols with symbols and terminology of 6 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Many times the crochet symbol will look like the stitch you are going to create; the chain stitch, for example, is depicted as an oval that is basically the line representation of what a chain stitch looks like when worked in yarn.

Post stitches have a “hook” at the bottom representing that you hook it over the post and they will point in the direction that you would work that stitch.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 5 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Lines in the middle of a stitch symbol represent the yarn overs, so for a treble crochet (US double crochet) looks like a T with a single line across the bar – so there is one ‘yarn over’, a double treble (US treble) looks like a T with two lines across the bar – for two ‘yarn overs’.

Shell stitches or textured bobble, puff and popcorn stitches will be shown as being worked in one stitch by a complete symbol. Sometimes how symbols for stitches like bobbles, puffs and popcorns may look a little different so it’s always important to refer to the chart key to be sure.

Crochet Chart Symbols with another set of symbols and terminology of 4 stitches in US and UK crochet terms

Once you get familiar with the symbols that represent each stitch, it’s fairly easy to read crochet symbols and the subsequent charts. They are designed to read exactly like they look!

Reading a Chart

You will find, when it comes to reading charts, that most are written for right handed crocheters (unless specifically specified), basically that means that the chart should be reversed if you are left-handed. This can be done mentally or through a physical reproduction – try doing a reverse image on your computer with photo editing tools.

To work from a crochet chart in rows, start from the bottom left and work the foundation chain from left to right (if you’re right-handed). Then work Row 1, starting at the bottom right of the diagram and working each stitch towards the left. Then work Row 2 from the left side towards the right, and so on. The row numbers are usually placed at the start of each row, though rows can be depicted by dots or nothing at all if it’s clear where a row starts and ends – my top tip is to look for the starting chains.

The image below shows a section of my Shining Light wedding wrap (free pattern here on the blog):

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart with rows

Round-based symbol charts are worked from the inside out, starting in the centre and working counter clockwise (for right-handed crocheters). It’s a little harder to fit row numbers on patterns worked in the round so it can be useful to look for starting chains or slip stitches to give you a clue as you know from experience with crochet that that is where you will begin.

The image below shows a classic granny square pattern which is worked in the round:

Diagram with explanations of how to read a crochet chart in the round

Typically stitches are worked through both loops. However, there are exceptions where stitches are worked in the front or back loop only. Again there will be a symbol to represent this change in how you do the stitch.

If a chart is large, that would take up a lot of space in a pattern, then you might find information presented as a partial chart. It should still contain all the information you need, it’s most likely that the stitches are repeated which means it’s been able to be condensed.

Keeping Track

It can be helpful, as you work with charts, to mark of the rows as you go so you don’t lose track of where you are. This can be done with marks on the diagram, using a ruler, or by using a row counter. You also might find it useful to use stitch markers to track your rows and stitches.

And if you get lost in a crochet pattern that has a chart then looking at a diagram can help! Your crochet piece should be the same as the diagram so using a chart can be a great visible way to help you find your place quickly.

I hope you find that helpful before we begin our Enchanted Wood CAL journey where you will get plenty of opportunity to hone your new chart reading skills!

Good luck with your chart reading, feel free to drop any comments or any other helpful tips you’ve found with crochet charts below.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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28Jun2021

Tips for Crocheting with Slub Yarn

Posted in Crochet, Tutorial, Yarn by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Have you ever crocheted with slub yarn before? Or actually even heard of it? As that’s the type of yarn we are going to be using in the upcoming summer make-along – Whispers of the Sea. I thought you might find a post with a little bit about slub yarn useful and I’ve also included some of my top tips for working with this type yarn.

What is Slub Yarn?

Slub yarn is such a beautiful yarn, its sometimes called thick and thin, or fancy yarn, because it’s been deliberately spun in a way that creates both thin and thick sections along its length.

Slub yarn can either have quite thick sections combined with thin sections or random little bumps, aka ‘slubs’ combined with a normal plied yarn. As a yarn is spun, the machine periodically twists the yarn creating these slubs on the surface; these can be placed close together or far apart.

The gorgeously dyed slub yarn by The Yarn Whisperer, for the MAL, I would say has really gentle soft slubs at quite regular intervals, this is combined with a beautiful, slightly crimped effect, plied yarn. This was something I took into consideration as I designed the MAL wrap.

Other slub yarns may have more random distribution of slubs – so choosing the right pattern for slub yarn is something to consider before diving in.

Top Tips for working with Slub Yarn:

My first tip would definitely be around taking the time to choose the right pattern;

There are no rules for what you could potentially use slub yarn for, but I personally, for a first slub pattern, would steer clear from projects with too intricate stitch patterns because your stitch detail will just be lost in the texture!
Look for patterns with fairly simple stitches as the yarn already has such wonderful character on its surface. Find a pattern that let’s the yarn do the talking!
To compensate for the uneven thickness of the yarn look for patterns that have regular stitches of the same sort of heights throughout. Combination patterns of chains, double crochet (US single crochet), half trebles (US half double crochet) or trebles (US double crochet) would work well and show up the slubs in the yarn.

My second tip for working with highly textured yarns is to remember to count your stitches often; it can be quite easy to miss a stitch or make two stitches in one. When working in rounds or rows you may find using a stitch marker to mark the start (and the end) of each row useful.

Tip three; frogging happens! But when it comes to ripping back slub yarn do it slowly so as not to break the yarn. If you do have to frog your work back, pull gently and manipulate any slubs through stitch loops with your fingers to help pull loose.

My fourth tip is that some slub yarn can be quite springy, make sure you hold a good tension as you work and don’t crochet too tightly. You may find using a slightly large hook size, than recommended, an advantage if you know that you have a tight tension – though be careful to check gauge if the pattern is size specific.

My last tip is really try and ignore the slubs! Just crochet as normal – it may seem strange at first but you will not notice the slubs as you get into your normal rhythm of stitching.

It might sound a little intimidating to work with something so unusual, but although it can take a little getting used to, slub yarn creates such a lovely and wonderfully interesting surface texture that’s worth persevering for. The plus side of using this artistic looking yarn is that’s it’s already brimming with creativity – so whatever you make from it is guaranteed to have amazing texture and personality!

I’m so pleased that I had the opportunity to work with the amazing slub yarn from the wonderful Yarn Whisperer; it was really important to me to find the best technique that allowed me to show the amazing yarn off to it’s full potential and create something with real personality! I hope my tips will help you with any future slub projects.

I absolutely love the way that slub yarn looks, especially when it’s in hand dyed form, because the combination of gorgeous texture and colours together can become something truly unique and wonderful!

If you don’t have any slub yarn in your stash yet then I hope this will make you think you need to find out what you are missing out on – I know for sure that there will be definitely be more slub yarn added to my stash in future! I’ve decided there definitely needs to be crochet slub patterns in the world! What do you think? Have you used slub yarn before? Are there any other tips you can think of that might also be useful? I hope you will drop them in the comments below.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

25Feb2021

Top Tips for Filet Crochet

Posted in Crochet, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

With the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along starting next week (yippee!) I thought I’d just take a moment to talk a little bit about ‘filet crochet’ for anyone that might not be so familiar with the technique.

So what is Filet Crochet?

Filet crochet is a technique with which you can create wonderful pictures, words, and intricate patterns using solid blocks of stitches combined with open mesh.

‘Filet’ derives from the word ‘net’ in French, as it’s thought to have its roots in how fishermen mended their nets. Its also one of the oldest and simplest forms of crochet. Commonly filet will call for UK treble crochet (tr) / US double crochet (dc), to create blocks, and a chain stitch, to create the open mesh, but other stitches can be used. You can produce a simple all-over net type fabric or work from a chart to produce a patterned motif.

I do love filet crochet, in fact the first thing I ever purposefully made and that started my whole crochet journey, to what it is now, was this Filet Crochet Bunny Blanket by Red Heart Yarns. I chose this pattern as I was just drawn to how you could use simple stitches to create an image and I loved the results.

For whatever reason I think filet seems to be a technique that people perhaps consider as a little old fashioned, or something that people are a little scared of to try, or think of it specifically made with teeny tiny hooks (eek!) and proper crochet thread (yikes!).

I think it’s a technique that’s ultimately so satisfying when you’ve finished as it’s so effective to look at – I’m hoping that the Filet Fantastic Crochet Along will help others to love filet crochet too!

Understanding a filet crochet pattern:

Part of the difference about filet crochet is understanding how the instructions are usually laid out. Filet pattern instructions can be written, but they very often just come in the form as a chart. On most filet charts ‘spaces’ are represented by the blank squares and the ‘blocks’ by the filled in squares. Have a look at the filet chart I have created below:

The squares and the blank squares represent stitches, which if written in symbol form would look like this:

The vertical stitches are usually UK treble (tr) / US double crochet (dc) and the horizontal bars a chain space. So each filled block would be 3tr (3dc) and each blank block would be 1tr, ch1,1tr (1dc, ch1, 1dc).

Some patterns use 4 tr/dc to form a block, while other patterns might use a 2ch for a blank block, it’s important to check the pattern instructions to make sure you know what stitches you need to work.

You’ll usually begin the project with a starting chain (in the instance of the chart above it’s a ch29). In the chart below I’ve added the stitch symbols and the chart together so you can see how they correspond.

Tips to reading a filet crochet pattern chart:

Unless otherwise stated you read odd rows of a chart from right to left, even rows from left to right; though if your pattern is symmetrical it doesn’t make that much difference. So right-handed crocheters should begin on the right side of the chart for row 1 and work from left to right for row 2. If you are left-handed, you would begin the same chart on the left side for row 1.
In an asymmetrical pattern you really need to pay attention to which direction you’re going or wonky images will occur!
You usually read (start) the chart from the bottom, and complete the rows upward.
On rows where you have to work a tr/dc either into the chain space (ch-sp), you can chose to work it either into the ch1 of the ch-sp or into the ch-sp itself – it’s all personal preference. I work mine into the ch-sp as it’s faster!
Keep track of your progress by ticking off the row you’ve just completed, or use a sheet of paper and lay it over your chart and move it up each time you finish a row – there’s nothing worse that realising you’ve just worked the same row twice!
Check your work after you complete a row, (even when you are more familiar with filet crochet patterns) it’s easy to miss a stitch or misalign a block that can throw the end design off – and there’s nothing worse than frogging five rows back or more!

Why not have a go at creating a test swatch from the chart above, it’s a nice symmetrical pattern to start with so it won’t matter which way you read the chart.

In the Filet Fantastic pattern there are both symmetrical and asymmetrical designs that we will create. As well as a helpful chart I have included the written instructions. But learning how to read a filet crochet chart is a useful skill to tuck under your belt!

For those that might prefer the written instructions to the filet chart above I’ll add the text version / pattern on a future post. But a 3mm hook (US size C/2) hook and about 10g / 26m of yarn (I used Scheepjes Riverwashed and Scheepjes Stonewashed for my swatches) you can create a square roughly 13.5cm x 13.5cm.

Tip: If you find that your tr / dc’s are on the short side and you create a rectangle instead of a square you might try replacing your tr/dc’s with an extended treble / double crochet (etr / edc) as follows: Yarn over, insert your hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through 1 loop on your hook (yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice.

My free mini filet afghan square (link to Ravelry) is a good first foray into filet if you are looking to give the technique another try, this time working in the round, or I also have some other designs (links below for different pattern platforms) where I have also incorporated my love of filet into a design:

ETSY	RAVELRY	LOVECRAFTS
Flourite Filet Cowl	Flourite Filet Cowl	Flourite Filet Cowl
	Bordered Heart Filet Blanket	Bordered Heart Filet Blanket

But there really isn’t long to wait now before we begin our Filet Fantastic CAL journey where you will get plenty of opportunity to hone your new filet skills! I for one can’t wait to see your results.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

13Nov2019

How to repair a broken granny square blanket

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, From the Stash, Getting Crafty, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

I was recently asked by the owner of the Artisan Boutique, where I sometimes do some crochet workshops, if it would be possible to mend a customers granny square blanket for her.

The blanket had been so well loved, and passed through a variety of different children in the family, that some of the squares had unravelled or almost disintegrated entirely!

The blanket was in a very sorry state with nine squares in total needing repair but I thought it could be fixed successfully – and I thought you guys might find it useful to know how to repair a granny square blanket too, just in case you are ever faced with a broken granny situation.

Repairing a granny square does take a bit of time! Depending on the severity of hole and the size of the square you’ll need to fix you’ll firstly want to choose a time where you can concentrate and be uninterrupted, as once you are in the process of repairing you really don’t want to be having to get up and run around somewhere.

To give you an example of time to set aside most of the squares I had to fix were of four rounds – and it took me at least an hour to make the new piece and fix that into place (and I’ve been told I’m not a slow crocheter). You could make a fair few brand new granny squares in that time. But for those blankets steeped in family stories and history that NEED to be kept as a keepsake, this method can be a perfect lifesaver!

This method is for any blanket that has a granny square that has unravelled from the centre but that has salvageable sections on the outer edges of the square.

What you will need:

Scrap bits of yarn roughly matching the yarn weight, fibre content (e.g. acrylic) and colours of the square you are going to replace,
A crochet hook to match the previous gauge, I do this by eye but roughly you’d probably use a 4mm (US size G) for DK (Light Worsted) or 5mm (US size H) for Aran (Worsted). If you are not sure make up a square with a hook first and see if it will fit the gap. A bit smaller is better, then it won’t be prone to sagging when it’s washed at a later date.
Sharp pair of scissors,
Lots of stitch markers with enough space on them to hold a cluster of three stitches,
A large wool / tapestry needle,
Optional: A small crochet hook (such as a 2.75 / US size C) to help pass the loop through stitches.
Optional: A table. Whilst you can make repairs with your crochet on your knee you’ll find it infinitely easier to fix broken squares working on a flat surface with you sitting comfortably!

Step 1:

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It’s important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Sometimes you can save the centre of a square, you have cut away, to use again on a new square, just unravel where possible and use the yarn to remake your new granny square.

Step 2:

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Step 3:

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Step 4:

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Step 5:

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Step 6:

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

Remove the stitch marker from the end of the cluster you have just passed your yarn / loop through. Double check that your square is still in the right place – it’s very easy to misalign your squares as you work!

To complete a corner, work the first granny square stitches next to the corner as usual, then thread the yarn / loop, through the bottom of TWO cluster of granny stitches (that form the corner), ch2, and then work the next granny square stitches as normal. Adjust the ch2 so that it fits through the bottom of the two clusters of granny stitches.

Step 7:

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

And that’s it!

I hope that this tutorial helps your old blankets live on for many more years to come! Let me know if you find this tutorial useful, I’d love to hear the tales of blankets that have been saved!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

18Dec2018

Tapestry Crochet: Step-by-step mini tutorial

Posted in Crochet, Designing, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Tutorial, Yarn by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

So yesterday if you were here on the blog you will have seen my review of Anchor Creativa Fino yarn that Anchor crafts kindly sent me to try. I also shared with you a little sneeky peep of the free patterns I’m sharing with you today.

I thought I’d do a bit of a double post today, in this post I’m going to first talk about how I do tapestry crochet working in rows to make it easier, for folks that haven’t tried it before, to go onto the patterns for both decorations next.

Tapestry crochet is one of those that might seem a little intimidating because it can involve a lot of different yarn colour changes, but I’m going to show you below how easy it is – and how to weave most of your ends as you go!

The main thing you need to know is that you will be working normal UK double crochet (US single crochet) stitches. The only difference is that you will carry additional yarn along with you and working over it as you crochet the row.

Step 1:

Work your rows and stitches as the pattern indicates as normal…

Step 2:

Then on the next row where you have to change colour, lay your second colour along your row and work over the top of it until it’s time for you to actually change colour…

Step 3:

When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous stitch to complete that stitch…

Step 4:

Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern…

Step 5:

When you get to the end of the row carry your yarn up the side of your work…

Step 6:

Then carry the unused coloured yarn along and crochet over the unused colour to work the next row…

And that’s pretty much it! Keep working the steps above until you have finished the tapestry part of your work as indicated in the pattern.

There are often two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns; a written pattern and a pictorial chart. For a pictorial chart you usually work one UK double crochet (US single crochet) per square indicated.

In the pattern coming shortly I’ve included both the written pattern and a pictorial chart for both the Christmas tree and the Christmas wreath crochet decoration so you can decided which you prefer.

Many thanks to Anchor Crafts for supplying the yarn so I could make this pattern for you.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

6Jun2017

Moroccan Window | Nuts About Squares CAL

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Free Patterns, Inspiration, Patterns, Tah-Dah, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

So we are now up to week 10 on the Nuts About Squares CAL and I’m delighted that my Moroccan Window block (originally designed for my 2015 CAL) has been featured alongside ‘Sweet and Fair‘ by the wonderfully talented designer Julie Yeager (I love her block designs!).

Don’t worry if this is the first time you are hearing about the CAL you can find all the information about it HERE on the It’s All in A Nutshell website.

Once again the very talented Esther has created an accompanying step-by-step video showing how to crochet my square.

And once again I’m in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…

And the Moroccan Window block has now also been translated into Dutch too! The update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares and #kcacouk #moroccanwindow too – can’t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

31May2017

Margaret’s Hug Healing Prayer Shawl | Free Crochet Chart

Posted in Crochet, For Adult, Free Patterns, Inspiration, Stitches, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

I think I have said before that one of the patterns I am most proud of is my Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl. Since I shared this free pattern, and the story of it’s creation, in February 2014 on Ravelry alone it has now been downloaded over 40 thousand times!

Some of you have asked after my mother-in-law, after who the shawl was named, and I’m sorry to say that she lost her battle with cancer nearly two years ago. Margaret was a midwife / nurse all her working life and a kinder, more caring person you couldn’t wish to meet – she is very much missed by us all everyday! But I believe her legacy lives on in the idea of this shawl; I’m sure she would love the idea of her namesake being used to support people in need.

Many of you have shared your your own projects and your own stories about making the shawl for yourselves and for others. I want to thank you all for sharing details of what has often been a challenging time for you, friends and family – and for anyone still struggling I send you much love and well wishes.

I have had a few people contact me to say they have had trouble making up the shawl, I did make a rather shaky video (available here) to try and help. I’ll be the first to admit it’s not the best demonstration and I will hopefully be working on making a better video as soon as I’m able! But in the interim I thought charting up the pattern for you might help.

The downloadable pattern has now been updated with the chart and is available for download from Ravelry and LoveCrochet.com.

This shawl will always be a free pattern so others can make a hug for someone in need; however if you would like to pass on the couple of pounds/dollars you would have paid for this pattern to Cancer Research then that would make you extremely awesome!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

4May2017

Bavarian Beauty | Nuts About Squares CAL

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Free Patterns, Inspiration, Patterns, Tah-Dah, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

You may remember me telling you about the Nuts About Squares CAL which started on 31 March. Don’t worry though if you missed it there’s still plenty of time to catch up – the Information Post for the CAL can be found HERE.

I’m very excited to announce that my Bavarian Beauty Block is Part 6 of the CAL. You may remember I designed this pattern for my 2015 CAL. I did add some photo tutorials to the pattern originally, to help make up the block, but Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell has now also created a fabulous instructional video (in US terms) to accompany the block.

Along with the video for my block you can find a playlist of all the video tutorials for the CAL as they are released HERE.

I’m just in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…

I’m also very excited that I have now been translated into Dutch for the first time (Goedenavond alle Nederlandse haaksters!), the update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.

I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares and #kcacouk #bavarianbeauty too – can’t wait to see your projects.

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

8Feb2017

Felting Crochet Tutorial | FREE Felted Heart Pattern

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial, Yarn by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

by Vicky Lewis

by Joyce D Lewis

by The Felted Button

Felted crochet – have you tried it? I’ve always wanted to give it a go and as I was playing with some yarn the other day I came up with a little pattern that I thought could be a perfect first timer if it worked out right – and it’s just the right pattern with valentines day just round the corner!

If you are not familiar with what felting your crocheted work means, well it’s a process that transforms a piece of crochet into a kind of thick, solid, yet flexible fabric with no holes between the stitches.

So what yarn is best for felting?

You need to use 100% animal fibre yarns for best results e.g. sheep wool, alpaca or llama. Yarns such as acrylic, polyester and cotton with only a percentage of wool will not felt – and it’s useful to know that wool’s labelled ‘superwash’ have been treated to prevent felting.

What patterns are best for felting?

You can pretty much felt anything you can crochet. The only things that you need to consider are the felting process shrinks your finished product by quite a bit and crochet tends to shrink along the width of the product instead of the height.

There are loads of patterns out there if you do a search – but the lovely Moogly rounded up 10 free felted crochet patterns to get you started here or keep scrolling for my free mini heart pattern below.

So how do I felt crochet?

The process for felting crochet is pretty simple; all you need is heat, water and agitation. It’s easiest to felt your crocheted work in the washing machine, but you can also felt crochet by hand. The Lion Brand blog has a good piece on how to hand felt with a little help from your kitchen which you can read here.

I used a washing machine as follows:

I put my crochet into a mesh lingerie bag (or you can use a zippered cushion case) this was so small items or loose fibres wouldn’t escape and break my washing machine (definitely don’t want that!)
I added that bag into a washing machine with some sturdy non run clothing (like jeans).
I put the washing machine on it’s longest warm (30°C or 40°C) or hot wash (60°C or 90°C)
After that had finished I had a look at it – you can wash as many times as needed to achieve your desired affect
Place it somewhere where you can leave it to completely dry out. Like a normal crochet item it’s best not to twist or wring out the item as it will stretch out of shape.

And that’s it, you’re done! So how about a little pattern to try it out? These little hearts are quick and very easy to make; they are perfect for embellishing anything from cards, bags, hats, cushions, hair-clips – well the possibilities are endless. It’s also a great little applique for left over yarn from your stash!

Little Felted Hearts

Click the following link to add the Little Felted Hearts to your Favourites and Ravelry Queue or keep scrolling for the pattern. For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Pattern:

Yarn: Scraps of Aran (Worsted) Weight Yarn / Weight #4 in 100% animal fibre
Hook: 5 mm / US size H

Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
tr/dc picot = UK treble / US double crochet with a picot stitch at the end

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
tr/dc picot: Work as a normal tr/dc, then ch 2, sl st into the top of the tr/dc just made – continue onto next st as normal.
[ ] = work everything in brackets in one st

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Start with either a magic ring or ch 3 with a sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (17 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same st as the first ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in the next, then work [1 tr/dc, 1 tr/dc picot, 1 tr/dc in the next st], 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc worked. Finish off and weave in ends.

My end verdict…well it’s so easy to felt wool, you simply must try it! I’d love to hear about / see what you have felted / tried to felt.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

10Aug2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Patterns, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.