Free Crochet Pattern | Bean Stitch Mug Cosy

There’s something about a warm cup of coffee or tea that just feels like home. But what if you could make that experience even more comforting? Enter the mug cosy—a delightful little project that’s as functional as it is fun! Today, I’m excited to share with you a free crochet pattern for a bean stitch mug cosy that will not only keep your drink warm but will also bring a smile to your face every time you take a sip.

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Pinterest collage for the free crochet Bean Stitch Mug Cosy from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

What better stitch to use for a coffee mug cosy than the bean stitch? Soft, puffy, and bursting with texture, this stitch adds a lovely depth to your cosy, making it a joy to hold. Plus, this pattern comes complete with a buttoned closure, ensuring your cosy stays snug around your mug.

For those unfamiliar with this charming accessory, a mug cosy is a crocheted (or knitted) cover designed to wrap around your mug. Sometimes called a mug cozy, mug hug or coffee sleeve, its primary purpose is to keep your drink warm for longer. A mug cosy also serves as a protective barrier, making it easier to hold a hot mug without burning your hands. Additionally, a mug cosy can add a touch of personality to your coffee or tea time, transforming a plain mug into something uniquely yours. It’s a perfect blend of style and function, and it’s especially wonderful during those colder months when every sip counts.

A close up of a hand, in an outdoor setting, is shown holding a large pink coffee cup which is surrounded by a crocheted bean stitch cup cosy.

This pattern works beautifully with cotton yarn for its durability and ease of care – feel free to experiment with different colours for different looks. To further customise your mug cosy you could get creative with your button choice. A wooden button can give a rustic feel, while a colourful, patterned button could add a pop of fun.

Scroll down for the free version of this pattern but I’d recommend the purchase of the ad-free PDF Pattern if you’d like all the instructions and pictures in a nice document which you can print and take notes on without relying on your phone or an internet connection.

Coffee Bean Stitch Mug Cosy

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: Beginner / Easy

Yarn: Garnstudio DROPS Paris (100% Cotton; 82 yards [75 meters]/50 grams), Aran / Worsted Weight:

65 (A, 1 ball),
59 (B, 1 ball),
62 (C, 1 ball),
66 (D, 1 ball).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size 7 (4.5 mm)

You will also need:

Gauge: 3 dc = 0.75” / [2 cm]

Finished size: Adjust the width or length of the cosy by adding or subtracting stitches or rows to fit different mug sizes.

STITCH GUIDANCE:

Slip Stitch (sl st) Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Space (sp): The gap between stitches or chains.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

SPECIAL STITCHES:

When doing a bean stitch, it’s important to not yo when starting the stitch as that’s what makes the ‘beans’ lean to one side.

Bean Stitch 1 (BS1): Ch 1, insert hook in st, pull up a lp the size of a ch 1 (2 lps on hook), yo, pull up a lp, insert hook in same st, yo pull up a lp (4 lps on hook), yo, pull up a lp, insert hook in same st, yo pull up a lp (6 lps on hook), yo and pull through all lps on hook, ch1 to secure the st.
Bean Stitch 2 (BS2): Work the same as Bean Stitch 1 except start with a ch 2 and pull up the lps the size of the ch 2.

Placement of the stitches: You should work your ‘bean’ into the bean of the previous row (see images below)

Step 1 of positioning your crochet hook whilst working the Bean Stitch.

Step 2 of positioning your crochet hook whilst working the Bean Stitch.

PATTERN NOTES:

Ch 1 and ch 2 at the start of a row does not counts as a st.

PATTERN:

With A, ch 14.

Row 1: Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st across until end, turn. (13 sts)

Rows 2-3: Ch 1, dc in each st across until end, turn. (13 sts)

Row 4: Fasten off A, rejoin B to top of last st, ch 1, [BS1, sk next st] 3 times, [BS2, sk next st] 4 times, turn. (7 beans made)

Tip: Add a stitch marker on the beg of Row 4 to help show which side the smaller beans (BS1) should be.

Row 5: Ch 2, [BS2, sk next st] 4 times, [BS1, sk next st] 3 times, turn.

Rows 6-7: Fasten off B, rejoin C to top of last st, ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off C, rejoin D to top of last st.

Rows 8-9: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off D, rejoin A to top of last st.

Rows 10-11: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off A, rejoin B to top of last st.

Rows 12-13: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off B, rejoin C to top of last st.

Rows 14-15: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off C, rejoin D to top of last st.

Rows 16-17: Ch 1, rep Rows 3 & 4

Fasten off D, rejoin A to top of last st.

Rows 18-19: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off A, rejoin B to top of last st.

Rows 20-21: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off B, rejoin C to top of last st.

Rows 22-23: Ch 1, rep Rows 4-5.

Fasten off C, rejoin D to top of last st.

Row 24: Ch 1, dc in each st along (including skipped sps) across until end, turn. (13 sts)

Row 25: Ch 1, dc in the first 2 sts, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next 3 sts] 2 times, ch 1, sk next st, dc in the last 2 sts, turn. (3 button holes made)

Row 26: Ch 1, dc in each st along (including ch-1 sps) across until end, turn. (13 sts)

Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in ends.

Using 2 plied strands of yarn A, line up the button holes with the place the buttons need to be on row 2 and sew button into place.

And that’s it!

And there you have it—a bean stitch mug cosy that’s as charming as it is practical! Whether you’re sipping your morning brew or enjoying an evening tea, this cosy will keep your hands warm and your drink insulated. Plus, it makes a wonderful handmade gift for friends and family who appreciate a cosy touch to their beverages.

I hope you enjoy making this mug cosy as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you try this pattern, I’d love to see your finished creations! If you enjoyed this pattern, you can view a list of my other free patterns here.

A close up of a hand and face, in an outdoor setting. The hand is shown holding a large pink coffee cup which is surrounded by a crocheted bean stitch cup cosy, the person is drinking from the coffee cup

If you enjoyed this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from – and I hope you’ll share your photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links at no extra cost to you. This helps to cover the running cost of the website – thank you for your support.

Photo credit: This pattern originally appeared in I Like Crochet magazine 2020. Photo credit as shown.

13Jul2024

Free Crochet Pattern | The Colbie Cowl

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Do you find yourself staring at a ball of chunky weight yarn, unsure of what to create with it? If so, look no further than the Colbie Cowl, this versatile and stylish accessory is the perfect solution for that neglected yarn, offering a quick and satisfying crochet project that’s ideal for last-minute gifts or a cosy addition to your own wardrobe.

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Pinterest collage for the free crochet Colbie Chunky Cowl from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

I’m excited to say that I’m participating, with the Colbie Chunky Cowl, in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. 30 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of forever free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, and sewing projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week has a theme, and my Colbie Chunky Cowl is part of week 2;

Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. 31 days, 31 projects, 30 bloggers, great prizes. Crochet. Knit. Sew. #cijmakealong2024

Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

There’s also some fabulous prizes up for grabs if you take part in the make-along. The deadline to enter is is Sunday, August 4, 2024 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

So pop on over to the Underground Crafter’s blog to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along projects available.

The Colbie Cowl stands out not only for its simplicity but also for its effectiveness in showcasing the beauty of chunky weight yarn. This pattern utilises a fun stitch that creates a lovely texture, allowing the yarn itself to shine. Whether you opt for a variegated yarn for a nuanced look or a solid colour for a bold statement piece, the Colbie Cowl adapts effortlessly to your yarn choice, making each creation unique and eye-catching.

The Colbie Chunky Cowl shown on a mannequin from the side so you can see the texture. Free crochet pattern on the Keep Calm and Crochet On UK blog.

One of the best features of the Colbie Cowl is its speed. Thanks to the chunky weight yarn and straightforward pattern, you can whip up this cowl in no time at all. It’s the perfect project for those moments when you need a quick handmade gift or simply want to indulge in a satisfying crochet session without a long-term commitment. Beginners will find the pattern approachable, while more seasoned crocheters will hopefully appreciate the opportunity to relax with a project that doesn’t require intense concentration.

Chunky Colbie Cowl

The pattern below is written just in US terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: Beginner / Easy

Yarn:

Bernat Softee Baby Chunky (100% Acrylic; 148 yards [112 meters]/140 grams): My Sunshine Varg: Shade 97005 (1 ball)

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size K-10 (6.5 mm)

You will also need:

Gauge: 5 sts = 2 inches [5 cm] in US dc

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished size: 13 inches / [33 cm] wide x 6.5 inches / [16.5 cm] high

Close up of the Colbie Chunky Cowl showcasing the chunky central cable texture. Free pattern available from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Blog.

STITCH GUIDANCE:

Slip Stitch (sl st) Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Space (sp): The gap between stitches or chains.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

PATTERN NOTES:

All ch(s) are counted in this pattern.
Ch 2 at the start of a rnd counts as dc.
Ch 1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st

PATTERN:

Row 1: Ch24; in BLO, 1sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each st across until end, turn (23 sts)

Row 2: Ch2, 1dc in 7sts, ch7, skip 7sts, 1dc in the last 8sts turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, 1sc in each st and ch across, turn

Rows 4 – 51: Repeat rows 2 to 3 for the pattern

Row 52: Repeat row 2; do not fasten off

MAKING UP THE COWL:

You should have created a long strip of fabric with a section that looks like a ladder;

Making up of the crochet Colbie Cowl - tutorial photo 1

When you’re ready to create the Jacobs Ladder stitch begin at the bottom row.

Twist the chain over itself so that the right side crosses over the left and closes the first stitch.
Next pull up the loop from row 2 and pull it through the loop creating the “chained” stitch in your ladder.

Making up of the crochet Colbie Cowl - tutorial photo 2

Continue moving up, row by row, until you have pulled each chain through the ladder.

Making up of the crochet Colbie Cowl - tutorial photo 3

Ch1; work 1sc in the next 7sts, sl st in the top of the chain of the ladder to secure, 1sc in the rem 8sts. Fasten off, but leave a long yarn tail for the seam.

FINISHING:

Line up both ends of the cowl and, with right side facing, whipstitch together. Weave in any rem ends.

And that’s it!

Whether you crochet one for yourself or as a thoughtful gift for a loved one, this pattern promises satisfaction and style in equal measure. If you enjoyed this pattern, you can view a list of my other free patterns here.

The Colbie Chunky Cowl shown around the neck of a smiling model. Free pattern available from Keep Calm and Crochet On UK blog.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Photo credit: This pattern originally appeared in One Skein Collection of I Like Crochet (2019). Photo credit as shown.

9Jul2024

Free Crochet Pattern | Foundry Fusion Shawl

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Hello lovelies! Today, I’m thrilled to introduce you to the Foundry Fusion Shawl, a stunning project that combines the beauty of touchable textures with a harmonious blend of three colours.

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Pinterest collage of the free crochet pattern Foundry Fusion Shawl. Free pattern available from www.keepcalmandcrochetonuk.com

The Foundry Fusion Shawl is all about texture; by using a variety of stitches and techniques, this shawl achieves a rich, tactile quality that adds depth and interest. The magic of the Foundry Fusion Shawl lies in the combination of three metallic yarn tones. The choice in this case was easy as the lovely people over at Furls sent me some of their Furls Fibreart Wander Acrylic Yarn in Mist (Silver), Foundry (Iron) and Thatch (Copper).

Furls Fiberart Wander yarn is a 100% acrylic, worsted weight (Aran) yarn that comes in 100g balls. Each ball has approximately 120 yards/ 109m and has a lovely lustre about it and it’s also super soft to crochet with.

I was very lucky as the lovely folks at Furls also sent me the most gorgeous Streamline metal H/8 (5mm) hook to use on the project. I’ve got a few Furls hooks (wooden and resin) but this is my first time using the metal kind, I love the weight of it and I especially like these kind of hooks when working with thicker yarn weights.

A flat lay of several pretty shades of Furls Wander Acrylic Yarn on a desktop. A beautiful streamlined metal 5mm Furls hook is shown resting on top of the yarn.

You could of course use any three colours, but when selecting your colours, consider shades that complement each other and create a pleasing gradient or contrast. Or like me go for metallic tones that can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to your shawl, making it a versatile accessory for any occasion.

One of the best features of the Foundry Fusion Shawl is its speed to work up. Thanks to the worsted (aran) weight yarn and straightforward pattern, you can whip up a lovely big shawl, that’s like being wrapped in a warm hug, in no time. It’s the perfect project for those moments when you want to indulge in a satisfying mindfulness crochet session.

The Foundry Fusion shawl is held up to show it's large wingspan. A perfect large crochet shawl to snuggle into. Free pattern available from www.keepcalmandcrochetonuk.com

Beginners will hopefully find this pattern approachable, while more seasoned crocheters can appreciate the opportunity to relax with a project that doesn’t require intense concentration.

Foundry Fusion Shawl

The pattern below is written just in US terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: Beginner / Easy

Yarn: Furls Fiberarts Wander Acrylic Yarn used in photos: 100% Premium Acrylic Yarn; Worsted Weight (Aran) #4, 100g (120yds / 109m).

3 balls of MIST – YARN A
4 balls of FOUNDRY – YARN B
4 balls of THATCH – YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5mm).

You will also need

Scissors
A yarn needle
Stitch markers

Gauge: 5sts and 4 rows = 5cm (1.9 inches)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished size: Wingspan 87.5 inches / 222 cm; width at widest point 46 inches / 124cm

The Foundry Fusion large textured crochet shawl. Seen draped across a tall standing stone in a park setting. Free pattern available from www.keepcalmandcrochetonuk.com

STITCH GUIDANCE:

Slip Stitch (sl st) Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Space (sp): The gap between stitches or chains.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop [two loops on hook], yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Back Loop Only (BLO): If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.
Front post double crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated (your hook should now be positioned horizontally at the back of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over pull through 2 loops (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES:

Where a row starts with a ch3; the ch3 will count as the first dc stitch.
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified

PATTERN:

Row 1: With YARN A, ch 3, sl st to form a ring, then working into the ring, ch 3, 3 dc into the ring, ch 3, 4 dc into the ring, turn. (8 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Row 2: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, FPdc in the next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch3-sp of the previous row, FPdc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st, turn. (14 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, BLO dc in each st across until the ch3-sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch3-sp of the previous row, BLO dc in each st across until the last st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (20 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Row 4: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, FPdc in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, FPdc in the next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into the ch3-sp of the previous row, FPdc in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, FPdc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st, turn. (26 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Row 5: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, BLO dc in each st across until the ch3-sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch3-sp of the previous row, BLO dc in each st across until the last st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (32 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Row 6: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, FPdc in the next 3 sts, [1 dc in the next 3 sts, FPdc in the next 3 sts] until the ch3-sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into the ch3-sp of the previous row, [FPdc in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3 sts] until the last 4 sts, FPdc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st, turn. (38 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Rows 5 and 6 set the pattern of the shawl.

Rows 7 – 8: Repeat rows 5 – 6. (44 sts / 50 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN A and attach YARN C, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 9 –11: Repeat rows 5, 6 and 5 once more. (56 sts / 62 sts / 68 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN C and attach YARN B, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 12 – 16: Repeat rows 6, then repeat rows 5 – 6 twice. (74 sts / 80 sts / 86 sts / 92 sts /98 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN B and attach YARN C, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 17 – 24: Repeat rows 5 – 6 four times. (104 sts / 110 sts / 116 sts / 122 sts / 128 sts / 134 sts / 140 sts / 146 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN C and attach YARN A, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 25 – 27: Repeat rows 5, 6 and 5 once more. (152 sts / 158 sts / 164 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN A and attach YARN B, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 28 – 32: Repeat rows 6, then repeat rows 5 – 6 twice. (170 sts / 176 sts / 182 sts / 188 sts / 194 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN B and attach YARN A, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 33 – 40: Repeat rows 5 – 6 four times. (200 sts / 206 sts / 212 sts / 218 sts / 224 sts / 230 sts / 236 sts / 242 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN A and attach YARN C, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 41 – 43: Repeat rows 5, 6 and 5 once more. (248 sts / 254 sts / 260 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN C and attach YARN B, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 44 – 48: Repeat rows 6, then repeat rows 5 – 6 twice. (266 sts / 272 sts / 278 sts / 284 sts / 290 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN B and attach YARN C, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 49 – 56: Repeat rows 5 – 6 four times. (296 sts / 302 sts / 308 sts / 314 sts / 320 sts / 326 sts / 332 sts / 338 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN C and attach YARN A, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 57 – 59: Repeat rows 5, 6 and 5 once more. (344 sts / 350 sts / 356 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

Fasten off YARN A and attach YARN B, with a sl st to the last st worked;

Rows 60 – 64: Repeat rows 6, then repeat rows 5 – 6 twice. (362 sts / 368 sts / 374 sts / 380 sts / 386 sts, 1 x ch3-sp)

And that’s it!

PARTIAL CHART

Section of chart. Please note there are more stitches and rows than shown;

Section of chart for the KCACOUK Foundry Fusion Shawl. Please note there are more stitches and rows than shown.

BLOCKING

The design of this shawl will benefit from being wet blocked;

Completely soak your item in cold water then gently squeeze (without wringing it) out some of the excess water.
Using your tape measure and pins carefully pin your item on your blocking board (a folded towel will also work).
Double check your measurements if necessary (e.g. check the height and width are correct)
Leave to dry completely over 24 hours, and then unpin.

And that’s it!

The textured crochet Foundry Fusion shawl is shown in close up on a person. It has been held in place with a wooden shawl pin. Free pattern available from www.keepcalmandcrochetonuk.com

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

8Mar2023

Free Crochet Pattern | Dýnami Cable Earwarmer

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Hi folks, I’ve got a brand new FREE pattern to share with you today, the Dýnami Cable Earwarmer. A great first crochet cable project to create a quick cosy headband.

A young women models the crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

The idea for this headband came about all because of my friend Sharon who is currently raising money for MIND as she prepares to run the London Marathon (you can watch some of her prep YouTube videos here). As part of her fundraising she was doing a few coffee morning sales, where cake and crochet were combined, and a few of her crochet friends were going to donate some crochet items to help her raise some funds.

As we chatted about what we could provide I got to thinking about headbands / ear warmers, something that runners could potentially use, and plus it’s a cute and cosy accessory for us non-runners out there! So I put my name down for some ear warmers and decided to come up with a brand new design in honour of Sharon’s venture.

The name of the headband ‘dýnami’ comes from the word ‘strength’ in Greek as I was thinking about marathons and having that stamina to run 26.2 miles (42km) – I couldn’t do it so thank goodness for people like Sharon who have the focus and dedication! Plus MIND is a great charity to raise money for, I’m sure everyone knows someone who’s life has been touched by mental health challenges – I know mine has.

Image of the crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

So as I’m on a bit of a yarn ban this year (because I seriously have enough yarn to fill a shop) instead of buying I went stash diving for these headbands. I knew I wanted something wool, as wool has the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature, which I thought would be useful if you did want to use the headband whilst out for a run.

In my ample stash I found a load of different colours of Drops LIMA Mix. I actually have no idea what my original plan was for the yarn, as they were a few random different colours, but it was pretty much exactly what I was looking for to create the ear warmers. I would suggest that a solid shade yarn, rather than a variegated yarn, would work best for this patterns so you can see the textured cables.

Image of some Drops Lima Mix yarn and a work in progress crocheted Dýnami Cable Earwarmer in an outside setting

I actually don’t know why I haven’t used the Drops LIMA Mix before now because it’s LOVELY! I thoroughly enjoyed crocheting with it. The DK (8ply / Light Worsted) yarn comes in 50g (100m / 109yds) balls and is a squishy mix of 65% Wool and 35% Alpaca which is beautifully soft and pleasant to work with.

Before we get to the pattern if you would like to contribute to Sharon’s fundraising for MIND, before 23 April 2023, then you can on her specific charity page although this pattern is free, if you purchase the PDF pattern before this date any income generated I will pass over for MIND too.

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Dýnami Cable Earwarmer

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Materials

Skill Level: 3 – Intermediate

Yarn: Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light),

50g (100m) Drops LIMA mix

Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610

A single 50g ball will make 1 adult ladies sized headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 4mm (US size G/6)

You will also need:

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is critical to this project for two reasons; if you do not match gauge then either your item will be bigger or smaller than the specified finished size, and as cables are a bit of a yarn eater then you may run out of yarn. Try going up or down a hook size to meet gauge and/or if you know you crochet loosely maybe make sure you have extra yarn before you start.

Finished Sizes:

Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)

Stitch Guidance

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Front post double treble (FPdtr):
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

Pattern Notes

The ch1 at the start of a rnd does not count as a st

Pattern

MATERIALS

Yarn Required: 50g / 100m / 109yds of Double Knit, 8ply / yarn weight #3 (Light)

Yarn Used in photos:

Drops LIMA mix used in photographs in shades:

Beige Mix 0619, Off White 0100, Dark Grey Mix 0519, Jeans Blue 6235, Deep Taupe 5610

About the yarn:

Drops Lima Mix; DK; 50g / 100m / 109yds 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca

A single 50g ball will make one headband to fit an approximate 22 inch / 58cm circumference sized head if you match gauge. You can continue the pattern to make a bigger size but you will then need an additional ball of yarn.

Hook Size(s): 4mm (US size G/6).

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size may be different.

You will also need:

· A yarn needle

· Stitch Markers

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1”)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project but if your gauge does not match the gauge stated then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished size: Guidance provided for adjusting the headband for different sizes given in the pattern.

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.

PATTERN NOTES

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified

PATTERN

The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.
You may find it useful to add a stitch marker to the first / and last st of a row.

Row 1 (RS): Ch17, 1htr in the 4th ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, miss 2sts from the last st worked on current row and 4 sts two rows below [FPdtr around the post of the next 2sts, then working back over the FPdtr you’ve just made, FPdtr in the two missed sts], 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, 1htr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in each st across until the end, turn. 15sts

Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in the next 2sts, [FPdtr around the post of the 4sts (the FPdtr) two rows below, 1htr in the next st, FPdtr in the next st, repeat [ … ] once more, 1htr in the last 2sts. 15sts

Repeat rows 2 – 5 for the pattern;

Approximate measurements given below for different sizes, however for best fit measure the head in question and work until the band measures 1cm / 0.4 inches smaller than required as the headband will stretch.

For sizes greater than the largest size please note you will need more than one ball of yarn.

Pre-schooler/Toddler Size: follow pattern, stop after row 65, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 43cm / 17 in long)
Child Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 69, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 46cm / 18 in long)
Adult Ladies Size: follow pattern, stop repeats after row 77, follow directions for seaming and wrapping. (approx. 58cm / 22 in long)

Fasten off the yarn on your last row but leave a long yarn tail attached.

FINISHING

Join the two ends of the headband together with the right sides facing each other.
Loosely slip stitch along the row, pushing your hook through both layers of the headband for each stitch, so that you create a seam.
Thread the tail of the yarn through a darning needle and sew a couple of stitches before trimming off the excess. Turn the headband right side out.

And that’s it, enjoy your new headband!

Partial chart for the Dynami Cable Earwarmer in UK Terms

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

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8Nov2017

Poppy Brooch | Free Crochet Pattern

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

In 2013 I made a little poppy brooch to commemorate Remembrance Day. I’ve used that photo for the last 4 years as my post on social media on the 11th hour, of the 11th day and over the years I’ve had many people ask about a pattern. Now at the time I didn’t write down the pattern, I was just playing and made something up, but at the Knitting and Stitching Show you may recall I bought a lovely box filled with Scheepjes Catona Cutie Pies and whilst I was a bit loath to open the box I thought they would be just perfect to try and recreate my poppy brooch.

This free pattern is to help anyone crocheting poppies to raise money for The Royal British Legion.

Poppy Brooch

Add the this pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue here.

Yarn

Scheepjes Catona Cutie Pie 10g balls in the following colours:

Poppy Rose (Shade 390)
Jet Black (Shade 110)
Small Trimmits Black Seed Beads (Optional)
Brooch pin (with sieve backing) or normal brooch pin

Hook: 2.75mm hook (US size C)

Difficulty: Easy

Size: 5cm long x 3cm wide (2″ long x 1.1″ wide)

Gauge: Is not important for this item

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc= UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc= UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc= UK treble / US double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Instructions:

The poppy brooch is worked in the round placing a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch to mark start of round.

Rnd 1: With black; start with either a magic ring or ch2 and work in 2nd ch from hook, work 6dc/sc into the ring. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc/sc in each st around. 12sts

Fasten off and weave in ends

Rnd 3: Rejoin red yarn to any st, ch1 and work 1dc/sc in same st as beginning ch1, and then working around the poppy *2htr/hdc in the next st, 3tr/dc in the next st,, 2htr/hdc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the next st * repeat from * to * once more, 1dc/sc in the last st. 20sts
Rnd 4: 2dc/sc in the next st and working round the poppy; 1htr/hdc in the next st , 2tr/dc in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next st, 3tr/dc in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2htr/hdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 3htr/hdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the last st. 28sts
Rnd 5: Sl St around the whole of the outside of the flower, fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing:

Sew on seed beads to the middle of the brooch (optional)
Line the poppy with felt (optional)
Add a brooch back onto the back of your brooch

And that’s it!

I hope you enjoy this little brooch. I can’t wait to yours! Make sure you link me your finished projects on Ravelry or your favourite social media (Facebook Twitter, and Instagram) and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

23Mar2017

The Little Yellow Duck Project

Posted in Amigurumi, Crochet, Free Patterns, Inspiration by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Back in February 2015 I blogged about The Little Yellow Duck Project which I had just learnt about. If you haven’t heard about the project before it involves people around the world handcrafting little yellow duck gifts as random acts of kindness that are then left in public places for others to find. A special tag on each one of the ducks invites the finder to take their gift home to brighten their day and to visit the The Little Yellow Duck Project website to register where they found their gift. The Little Yellow Duck Project is a global initiative highlighting the life-saving donation of blood, bone marrow, and organ and tissue.

I made ten little ducks to support the project and hid them all over everywhere – even taking some with me to hide when I went away for a couple of weekends so that they would be spread out far and wide. You can see all the ducks I made in my original post here.

Excitingly a couple of months later someone posted a photo to say that they had found one of my ducks which had prompted them to fill in an application form to be a blood donor! What an amazing feeling that was! And so nice to find out what had happened to a duck that had been hidden.

After I had finished making and hiding my pledge of little ducks I offered my services as a designer to The Little Yellow Duck Project to create a new free duckling crochet pattern which they could use…and not long after Doodle the Duckling was born!

Well one of the lovely people at the project contacted me this week to say that the pattern had never gone live on their website (although they thought it had). Needless to say they were mortified – but I know only too well how technology can be a fickle mistress (as I find out ever time I schedule a post when I’m on holiday…every. single. time!). All is now fixed however and you can now find Doodle the Duckling under the Crochet Pattern section of their website. If you want to add Doodle the Duckling to your Ravelry queue or favourite him so you can make him later then use this link here.

I hope you do check out The Little Yellow Duck Project when you get a moment – as well as crochet patterns they have knitting, sewing and machine embroidery patterns you use to support them if you fancy a different craft.

And just to finish off I’ll end with a photo of Little G from a year or so ago when she got to meet some real life little yellow ducklings…because too cute right!

Until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

23Nov2016

Free Pattern | Easy Cuff Mitts

Posted in Crochet, For Adult, For Child, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

The weather is just cold enough for a new hand warming crochet project don’t you think! Fingerless gloves are fantastic for keeping you cosy whilst still allowing you the important use of your digits. That’s where my new free pattern comes in…introducing the Easy Cuff Mitts! These mitts are a quick and simple pattern that you can make with less than 1 ball (100g / 295m / 322yds) of Aran (Worsted) weight yarn.

It’s also super easy to create a custom fit, make as long or as short as you wish just working in multiples of 2. You can create the mitts in minutes and use up some of your scrap yarn stash at the same time. Beginners…this is a great project for you!

Make chic looking mitts by using block colours and simple buttons or have some fun using variegated yarn and contrasting buttons to create something special and unique. The colour combinations are virtually endless – I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue and Favourites. Why not whip up a pair for you or a friend today!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

10Aug2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Patterns, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

30Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

14Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

Posted in Afghan Square, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.