Welcome to the last part of our Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching your Enchanted Wood projects come together.

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far up to Part 7, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

So are you are ready to crack on with the very LAST part of the CAL! This week we are going to be surrounding our Enchanted Wood with a border of three dimensional beech leaves.

Leaves are key to life on earth, they need carbon dioxide that humans and animals breathe out, and they return oxygen, which we need to breathe in! What a great way to finish off our blankets.

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 8 – Leafy Border

Yarn: 500g / 1475m / 1365yds or 5 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Spring Green (7126) – YARN J or alternatively 5 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Sage (1725) – YARN H

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 8 Approximate measurements:

• In Naturals 122cm (48”) wide x 127cm (50”) long
• In Special DK: 122cm (48”) wide x 130cm (51”) long

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
• Front Post two together (FP2tog): Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on  hook).  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
• Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• V Stitch (V-St): tr, ch1, tr in the same st
• Reverse double crochet (rev.dc): A reverse double crochet stitch is worked the same as a regular double crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
• Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
• [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• [[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

PATTERN – PART 8

• Part 8 creates the border around the whole of your blanket to bring it together.
• The ch3 counts as the first tr st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.

Rnd 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN J to the post of the last dc st of Part 7 (top right hand corner), ch6 (counts as tr + ch3 here and throughout), 1tr in each st across (185sts), [ turn your work, ch3, place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then working across Part 5 work 1tr in each st or ch (123sts), then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7 (211sts) ], ch3, then working along the top of Part 7, work 1tr in each st (185sts), repeat [ … ] once more, working only 17sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 792sts (Side 1 / 3 = 185sts, Side 2 / 4 = 211sts)

Rnd 2:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 12sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 12sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 9sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 9sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  800sts / 48 FPtr / 744 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 2:

Rnd 3:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 13sts, [ (FPtr, ch1, FPtr) on the post of the previous rnd, FPtr, BPtr in 15sts ] repeat nine times, FPtr, ch1, FPtr, BPtr  in 13sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 10sts, [ (FPtr, ch1, FPtr) on the post of the previous rnd FPtr, BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr, ch1, FPtr ] repeat eleven times, FPtr, ch1, FPtr, BPtr in 10sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  856sts / 96 FPtr / 752 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 3:

Rnd 4:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 14sts, FPtr on the next FPtr of the previous rnd (here and throughout), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 14sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 11sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 11sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  960sts / 96 FPtr / 760 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 4:

Rnd 5:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next  FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr  in 15sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 12sts [ FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr, [ BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr on the next FPtr, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr (of the V-St), FPtr on the next FPtr] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 12sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp,repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,064sts / 192 FPtr / 768 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 5:

Rnd 6:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 16sts, [ FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, FPtr on the V-St, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the V-St,  [FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, [ BPtr in 15sts, [FPtr on the next FPtr ] twice, FPtr on the next tr, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPtr on the next tr, [[FPtr on the next FPtr] twice ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 16sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 13sts, [[FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPtr on the next FPtr] twice, [ BPtr  in 15sts, [FPtr on the next FPtr ] three times, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPtr on the next FPtr] twice ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 13sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,168sts / 288 FPtr / 776 BPtr / 104 tr / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 6:

On this next round you will miss the ch1-sp in the centre of each leaf;

Rnd 7:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 17sts, [FPtr2tog (on the first two FPtr of the previous rnd), FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog on the next two FPtr of the previous rnd, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr in the next 4sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 17sts, tr, ch3, tr, in the ch ch3-sp, [ BPtr in 14sts, FPtr2tog, in the next 4sts, , FPtr2tog, BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr, FPtr2tog, ]  repeat eleven times, BPtr in 14sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,080sts / 288 FPtr / 784 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 7:

Rnd 8:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 18sts, [FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, FPtr2tog, [ BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr2tog, FPtr on the previous rnd twice, FPtr2tog ] repeat twelve times, BPtr in 15sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  992sts / 192 FPtr / 792 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 8:

Rnd 9:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 19sts, FPtr2tog twice [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog twice  ] repeat nine times, BPtr  in 19sts, tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, [[FPtr2tog twice, BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr2tog twice ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 16sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  904sts / 96 FPtr / 800 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 9:

Rnd 10:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 20sts, FPtr2tog [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 20sts, tr, ch3, tr in the ch3-sp, BPtr in 17sts, [[FPtr2tog, BPtr  in 15sts, FPtr2tog ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 17sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  864sts / 48 FPtr / 808 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 10:

Rnd 11:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, tr in the same sp, [[ BPtr in 21sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat nine times, BPtr in 21sts, (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, BPtr in 18sts, FPtr in next st, [ BPtr in 15sts, FPtr ] repeat eleven times, BPtr in 18sts ]], (tr, ch3, tr) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 872sts / 48 FPtr / 816 BPtr / 8 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 12:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch3 2tr in the same sp, BPtr in each st around, working (3tr) in each           corner, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 888sts / 876 BPtr  / 12 tr / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 13: Ch1, reverse double crochet around whole outer edge of the blanket. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Front Post Double Crochet  (FPdc): Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the st indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
• Front Post Double Crochet two together (FPdc2tog): Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on  hook).  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
• Back Post Double Crochet  (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Reverse single crochet (rev.sc): A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
• V Stitch (V-St): dc ch1, dc in the same st
• Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
• [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• [[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

PATTERN – PART 8

Part 8 creates the border around the whole of your blanket to bring it together.

• The ch3 counts as the first dc st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.

Rnd 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN J to the post of the last sc st of Part 7 (top right hand corner), ch6 (counts as dc + ch3 here and throughout), 1dc in each st across (185sts), [ turn your work, ch3, place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then working across Part 5 work 1dc in each st or ch (123sts), then evenly work 26sts on the row ends of Part 6, then place 18sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7 (211sts) ], ch3, then working along the top of Part 7, work 1dc in each st (185sts), repeat [ … ] once more, working only 17sts evenly on the row ends of Part 7, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 792sts (Side 1 / 3 = 185sts, Side 2 / 4 = 211sts)

Rnd 2:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 12sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 12sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 9sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 9sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  800sts / 48 FPdc / 744 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 2:

Rnd 3:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 13sts, [ (FPdc, ch1, FPdc) on the post of the previous rnd, FPdc, BPdc in 15sts ] repeat nine times, FPdc, ch1, FPdc, BPdc  in 13sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 10sts, [ (FPdc, ch1, FPdc) on the post of the previous rnd FPdc, BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc, ch1, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, FPdc, ch1, FPdc, BPdc in 10sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  856sts / 96 FPdc / 752 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 3:

Rnd 4:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 14sts, FPdc on the next FPdc of the             previous rnd (here and throughout), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 14sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 11sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 11sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  960sts / 96 FPdc / 760 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 4:

Rnd 5:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next  FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc  in 15sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 12sts [ FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc, [ BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc on the next FPdc, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc (of the V-St), FPdc on the next FPdc] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 12sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp,repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,064sts / 192 FPdc / 768 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 5:

Rnd 6:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 16sts, [ FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, FPdc on the V-St, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the V-St,  [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, [ BPdc in 15sts, [FPdc on the next FPdc ] twice, FPdc on the next dc, V-St in the ch1-sp, FPdc on the next dc, [[FPdc on the next FPdc] twice ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 16sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 13sts, [[FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice, [ BPdc  in 15sts, [FPdc on the next FPdc ] three times, V-St in the ch1-sp, [FPdc on the next FPdc] twice ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 13sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,168sts / 288 FPdc / 776 BPdc / 104 dc / 4 x ch3-sps / 48 x ch1-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 6:

On this next round you will miss the ch1-sp in the centre of each leaf;

Rnd 7:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 17sts, [FPdc2tog (on the first two FPdc of the previous rnd), FPdc in the next 4sts, FPdc2tog on the next two FPdc of the previous rnd, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc in the next 4sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 17sts, dc, ch3, dc, in the ch ch3-sp, [ BPdc in 14sts, FPdc2tog, in the next 4sts, , FPdc2tog, BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc, FPdc2tog, ]  repeat eleven times, BPdc in 14sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  1,080sts / 288 FPdc / 784 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rows 1– 7:

Rnd 8:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 18sts, [FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, FPdc2tog, [ BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc2tog, FPdc on the previous rnd twice, FPdc2tog ] repeat twelve times, BPdc in 15sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  992sts / 192 FPdc / 792 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 8:

Rnd 9:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 19sts, FPdc2tog twice [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog twice  ] repeat nine times, BPdc  in 19sts, dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, [[FPdc2tog twice, BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc2tog twice ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 16sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  904sts / 96 FPdc / 800 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 9:

Rnd 10:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 20sts, FPdc2tog [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 20sts, dc, ch3, dc in the ch3-sp, BPdc in 17sts, [[FPdc2tog, BPdc  in 15sts, FPdc2tog ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 17sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join.  864sts / 48 FPdc / 808 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Example below shows the first stitches of rnds 1– 10:

Rnd 11:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch6, dc in the same sp, [[ BPdc in 21sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat nine times, BPdc in 21sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, BPdc in 18sts, FPdc in next st, [ BPdc in 15sts, FPdc ] repeat eleven times, BPdc in 18sts ]], (dc, ch3, dc) in ch3-sp, repeat from [[ … ]] once more, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 872sts / 48 FPdc / 816 BPdc / 8 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 12:  Sl st to ch3-sp, ch3 2dc in the same sp, BPdc in each st around, working (3dc) in each           corner, sl st to the top of the 3rd st of beginning ch6 to join. 888sts / 876 BPdc  / 12 dc / 4 x ch3-sps

Rnd 13: Ch1, reverse single crochet around whole outer edge of the blanket. Fasten off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! We are all finished, I hope you have enjoyed the last 8 weeks of the CAL, I know I’ve thoroughly enjoyed seeing your projects go. I’m aiming to do a round up post of finished blankets that you’ve made, in about a month, to give people time to finish their blankets so please do keep posting those photos!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

How are you all doing? Are you ready for Part 7 of the CAL? That means after this part there is only one last section to go! We all of a sudden seemed to have gotten here quickly don’t you think?

I’ve so enjoyed watching the mushrooms develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

So are you are ready to crack on with part 7! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be using textured stitches to create the effect of tree bark and some branches.

Did you know that each tree species has its own unique bark pattern. Did you know that aspirin was originally developed from willow bark. Tree bark is clever stuff that protects the living tree from the environment, disease and insect attacks – so it, along with some branches, deserves a place in the CAL.

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 7 – Bark & Branches

Yarn: 160g / 400m / 437yds or 2 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Thyme (7156) – YARN I or alternatively 2 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Meadow (1065) – YARN G

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 7 Approximate measurements:

• In Naturals 109cm (43”) wide x 109cm (43”) long
• In Special DK: 112.5cm (44”) wide x 112.5cm (44”) long

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated  below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Front Post Triple Treble (FPttr): Yarn over 3 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 4 times.
• Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
• [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• [[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

• Alpine stitch: 4-row pattern repeat where tr / FPtr are alternated with rows of dc. When working an Alpine Stitch FPtr you will work two rows below directly onto the post of the indicated tr st; you will never work in a double crochet row when working an FPtr st. When you work a tr following a FPtr st you will work on the dc in the row below as normal.
• When you complete your FPtr make sure you pull up long loops on your hook when completing to adjust the row height accordingly.
• Due to the way the pattern is made, in the ‘alpine section’ one row of tr / FPtr will start with (tr, FPtr) and end with (FPtr / tr), and the following row of tr / FPtr will start and end with 2tr  
• When you make a FPtr two rows below there will be an unused st left behind the FPtr. You will not work in this st; it should be skipped when you are making the next st.

PATTERN – PART 7

• You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL; with the right side facing you will work directly on part 6.
• You will be making FPtr / FPttr branches interspersed with blocks of Alpine St (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St).
• A FPttr will be worked on the indicated post st, 4 rows below.
• A FPtr will always be worked 2 rows below (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St.)
• A tr will always be worked on the current row
• The ch3 counts as the first tr st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
• The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
• If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).

Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN I to the top of the last st worked. Ch3, BPtr in the next 183sts across the row until the last st, 1tr in the remaining st, turn, 2 tr / 183 BPtr / 185 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in the next 7sts, [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in next 9sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in 5sts ], repeat until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 163 dc / 185 sts

See example below which shows the first 23 sts (here and through out) of rows 1 – 2:

The first 7sts are the ‘branches’ thereafter worked over 5sts (until the last 7sts). The ‘Bark’ is the Alpine St section which are repeated over 9sts.

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in 6sts, [[ ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next st, [FPtr in the next st, 1 tr in the next st]            repeat four more times, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 5 sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1tr in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 44 FPtr / 119 tr. / 185 sts

See example below of rows 1 – 3:

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below, FPttr on the next st, 1tr on the next st on current row, 1 FPtr on the next st, 1tr on the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, [[ ch1, miss ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ FPtr in the next st, 1 tr in the next ] repeat twice, 1 tr in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, miss 2sts four rows below, FPttr in the next st, 1 tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr ]] repeat ten times, 1tr in each remaining 2sts, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 tr / 45 FPtr / 24 FPttr / 185 sts

See example below of rows 1 – 5:

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, FPtr in next st, 1tr in next 2sts [[ ch1, miss ch1-sp, [ 1tr in next st, FPtr in next st ] repeat 3 times more, 1tr in next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1tr in next 2sts, 1FPtr in next st, 1tr in the next 2sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1tr in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 107 tr / 56 FPtr / 185 sts

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn

See example below of rows 1 – 8:

Row 9: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below [[ FPttr around the next st , 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, [ 1FPtr in the next st, 1tr in the next st ]. repeat twice more, 1 tr in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp ]] repeat ten times more, miss 2sts four rows below, FPttr around the next st, 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st , 1tr in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPttr around the same post as the previous FPttr, 1tr in the next st, FPtr in the next st, FPttr in the next st four rows below, 1 tr in the last 2sts. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 tr / 45 FPtr / 24 FPttr / 185sts.

See example below of rows 1 – 9:

Rows 10 – 17: Repeat rows 6—9 twice

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 19: Repeat row 7, turn

Row 20: Ch1, 1dc in each st, including each ch-sp, until end. Fasten off and weave in ends. 185s ts

Reattach YARN I (or G) to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1—20. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
• Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Back Post Double Crochet  (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated  below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over 3 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 4 times.
• Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
• [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• [[ … ]] Repeat section in square brackets until  specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

Alpine stitch: 4-row pattern repeat where dc / FPdc are alternated with rows of sc. When working an Alpine Stitch FPdc you will work two rows below directly onto the post of the indicated dc st; you will never work in a double crochet row when working an FPdc st. When you work a dc following a FPdc st you will work on the sc in the row below as normal.

• When you complete your FPdc make sure you pull up long loops on your hook when                         completing to adjust the row height accordingly.
• Due to the way the pattern is made, in the ‘alpine section’ one row of dc / FPdc will start with (dc, FPdc) and end with (FPdc / dc), and the following row of dc / FPdc will start and end with 2dc
• When you make a FPdc two rows below there will be an unused st left behind the FPdc. You will not work in this st; it should be skipped when you are making the next st.

SCHEMATIC – PART 7

PATTERN – PART 7

• You will build part 7 onto the right side of the CAL with the right side facing you will work directly on part 6.
• You will be making FPdc / FPdtr branches interspersed with blocks of Alpine St (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St).
• A FPdtr will be worked on the indicated post st, 4 rows below.
• A FPdc will always be worked 2 rows below (see special stitch guidance for more details on Alpine St.)
• A dc will always be worked on the current row
• The ch3 counts as the first dc st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
• The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
• If you find that your rows are pulling into the centre you may wish to use a larger hook for this section e.g. 4mm (US size G/6).

Row 1 (RS): Sl st to join YARN I to the top of the last st worked. Ch3, BPdc in the next 183sts across the row until the last st, 1dc in the remaining st, turn, 2 dc / 183 BPdc / 185 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in the next 7sts, [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in next 9sts, ch1, miss st, 1sc in 5sts ], repeat until the last 2sts, 1sc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 163 sc / 185 sts

See example below which shows the first 23 sts (here and through out) of rows 1 – 2:

The first 7sts are the ‘branches’ thereafter worked over 5sts (until the last 7sts). The ‘Bark’ is the Alpine St section which are repeated over 9sts.

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in 6sts, [[ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st, [FPdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st]            repeat four more times, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 5 sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 44 FPdc / 119 dc. / 185 sts

See example below of rows 1 – 3:

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below, FPdtr on the next st, 1dc on the next st on current row, 1 FPdc on the next st, 1dc on the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, [[ ch1, miss ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ FPdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next ] repeat twice, 1 dc in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, miss 2sts four rows below, FPdtr in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr ]] repeat ten times, 1dc in each remaining 2sts, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 dc / 45 FPdc / 24 FPdtr / 185 sts

See example below of rows 1 – 5:

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, FPdc in next st, 1dc in next 2sts [[ ch1, miss ch1-sp, [ 1dc in next st, FPdc in next st ] repeat 3 times more, 1dc in next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1dc in next 2sts, 1FPdc in next st, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat across until the last 2sts, 1dc in each remaining st, turn. 22 x ch1-sps / 107 dc / 56 FPdc / 185 sts

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn

See example below of rows 1 – 8:

Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, miss 4sts four rows below [[ FPdtr around the next st , 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, ch1, miss ch1-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ 1FPdc in the next st, 1dc in the next st ]. repeat twice more, 1 dc in the next st, ch1, miss ch1-sp ]] repeat ten times more, miss 2sts four rows below, FPdtr around the next st, 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st , 1dc in the next st, working backwards over the stitches just made, 1FPdtr around the same post as the previous FPdtr, 1dc in the next st, FPdc in the next st, FPdtr in the next st four rows below, 1 dc in the last 2sts. 22 x ch1-sps / 94 dc / 45 FPdc / 24 FPdtr / 185sts.

See example below of rows 1 – 9:

Rows 10 – 17: Repeat rows 6—9 twice

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 19: Repeat row 7, turn

Row 20: Ch1, 1sc in each st, including each ch-

sp, until end. Fasten off and weave in ends. 185s ts

Reattach YARN I to the opposite side of your work and repeat rows 1—20. Fasten off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! Part 7 completed! We’ve now just got the border left to complete and we are all finished!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Welcome to part 2 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

So are you are ready to crack on with part 2! For the second part of the CAL we are going to be working little buds around our tree using a special stitch to create some fabulous texture.

A bud is a small pointed lump that appears on a tree or plant and develops into a leaf or flower – that’s why I’ve chosen it for the next part of our crochet-along, the wood is growing around our tree!

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Yarn: 80g / 200m / 219yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Seafoam (7143) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Parchment (1218) – YARN B

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 2 Approximate measurements:

• In Naturals 37cm (14.5”) wide x 40cm (15.7”) long
• In Special DK: 38.5cm (15”) wide x 43.5cm (17”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
• Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
• Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work
• [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
• [[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified
• ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

• Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.  

PATTERN – PART 2

• Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first tr + ch-3 here and throughout), 1tr in same corner sp, then work 1BPtr around the next st and in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work dc in the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning dc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in. 59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, {[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 4sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1dc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the next st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1tr in the last st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the  LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1dc in the last 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr in same corner sp), then work 1tr in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPtr when it should have been BPtr, written instructions were correct.

Pattern in US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Back Post double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work

Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work

[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified

[[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified

( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a                     

stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 2

Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first dc + ch-3 here and throughout), 1dc in same corner sp, then work 1BPdc around the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work sc in the next st and in each st around working (1sc, ch3, 1sc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning sc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in.

59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, {[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1sc in the last 4sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1sc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the next st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1dc in the last st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below,

[1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1sc in the last 2sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1sc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc in same corner sp), then work 1dc in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPdc when it should have been BPdc, written instructions were correct.

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! I look forward to seeing your progress later this week.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

I don’t know about you but that week seemed to go really quickly! And here we are already at Week 2 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

I hope you are ready to start Part 2 where we will continue our triangular shape as we plough another field and watch our planted crops begin to push up shoots and sprout up into little plants.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 2 – Shoots and Growth

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

• 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
• 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
• 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
• 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
• 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Up to the end of Part 2 – 82cm long, 54cm at widest point

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

• RS                   Right Side
• cm                   Centimetre
• ch                    Chain
• sp                    Space
• st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
• Special Picot Stitch:  Ch 3, insert hook around the post of the double crochet base st, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

• This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
• Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
• You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
• Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
• Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 2

Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked of Part 1;

Notes:

• The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st
• Work the SPtr’s into the middle tr of the 3tr’s of the previous row,

For the purpose of the stitch count of row 60; aside from the dc and treble stitches the ch2-sps count as one st (apart from the first ch that counts as two).

Row 60: (WS): Ch6 (counts as 1tr + ch3), (1dc in the ch3 of the previous Sprig St, ch2, 1tr in the space between the next two Sprig Sts, ch2), repeat thirteen times across the row, 1dc on the ch3 of the beginning ch of the previous row, turn. 60sts

Row 61: This is the increase side;Ch1, 2htr in the first st, (1htr in each ch2-sp, 1htr in each tr and dc of the previous row) across the row, working 2htr in ch5-sp of the beginning 6ch of Row 60, and 1htr in the 3^rd ch of the beginning 6ch of Row 60 to finish the row, turn. 61sts

Row 62: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 62sts

Row 63: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in each st across, turn. 63sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends; attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 64: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat thirteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the last st, turn. 64sts

Rows 65 – 66: Repeat rows 63 and 62, turn. 66sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 67: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 3sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fourteen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 67sts

Rows 68 – 69: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 69sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 70: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fifteen times across the row, 2htr in the last st, turn. 70sts

Rows 71 – 72: Repeat rows 63 – 62, turn. 72sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 73: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 5sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat fifteen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 73sts

Rows 74 – 75: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 75sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 76: Ch1, 1htr in the next 3st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat sixteen times across the row, 1htr in the next 2sts, 2htr in the last st, turn. 76sts

Rows 77 – 78: Repeat rows 63 – 62, turn. 78sts

Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 79: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 3sts, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seventeen times across the row, 1htr in the last st, turn. 79sts

Rows 80 – 81: Repeat rows 62 – 63, turn. 81sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in a repeating two row stitch pattern; the ch5 at the start of a row counts as 1tr + ch2 throughout;

Row 82: Ch5, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, 1tr in the same st as the last tr, turn.  82sts (22trs, 20 picots / dc, 40 x ch2-sps)

Row 83: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat nineteen times across the row, turn.  83sts

Row 84: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, turn.  83sts (21trs, 21 picots / dc, 41 x ch2-sps)

Row 85: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same sp, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat nineteen times across the row, turn. 84sts

Row 86: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat eighteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc,ch2, 1tr on top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  85sts (22trs, 21 picots / dc, 42 x ch2-sps)

Row 87: Ch3, 2tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty times across the row, turn.  87sts

Row 88: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1 st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, turn.  87sts (22trs, 22 picots / dc, 43 x ch2-sps)

Row 89: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same sp, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty times across the row, turn.  88sts

Row 90: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, 1tr in the next st, turn.  89sts (23trs, 22 picots / dc, 44 x ch2-sps)

Row 91: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-one times across the row, turn.  90sts

Row 92: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat nineteen times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 2sts, 2tr in the last st turn.  90sts (24trs, 22 picots / dc, 44 x ch2-sps)

Row 93: Ch3, 2tr in the same st, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-one times across the row, turn.  92sts

Row 94: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st), repeat twenty times across the row, ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, 1tr in the next st, turn.  93sts (24trs, 23 picots / dc, 46 x ch2-sps)

Row 95: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-two times across the row, turn.  94sts

Row 96: Ch5, miss 1st (of the 3tr), 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss 1st, 1tr in the next st, (ch2, miss 1st, 1dc in the next st, special picot on the dc, ch2, miss  st, 1tr in the next st), repeat twenty-one times across the row, ch2, 1dc on the last st, special picot on the dc, turn.  95sts (24trs, 24 picots / dc, 47 x ch2-sps)

Row 97: Sl st to the centre of the special picot of the previous row;ch3, 2tr in the same st, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row, (miss the ch2-sp, 3tr in the middle of the special picot of the previous row, miss the ch2-sp, 1 tr in the next tr of the previous row) repeat twenty-two times across the row.  96sts. Fasten off and weave in ends

Please note in the chart below there are more repeats than shown:

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! We’ve now reached the widest parts of our shawl, it’s all downwards to the end from here!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next three weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of the Lammas Day Crochet-Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 4 weeks to create a harvest inspired shawl, and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. If you want to join in the CAL using the same yarn I did I have put together a list of stockists on a previous post.  

During the duration of the CAL this pattern will be released part by part here on the blog, after the full CAL has finished there will be a FREE PDF ebooklet available on the Anchor Crafts website (link to follow).

We are going to make a start on our shawl today with increases to begin the shape of our triangle shawl, then we are going to follow up with ploughing our first field with some striped spike stitches, before planting those first sprig stitches as the crops in our first field begin to grow.

Lammas Day CAL: Part 1 – Ploughing and Sprigs

Yarn: Anchor Organic Cotton (4ply)

The amount listed below is the amount required to make the whole Lammas Day Shawl

• 5 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00105 (Natural) – YARN A
• 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00178 (Sunflower) – YARN B
• 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00103 (Rocky Orange) – YARN C
• 2 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00338 (Red Dunes) – YARN D
• 1 x 50g / 125 m Organic Cotton: 00038 (Earthy Brown) – YARN E

Hook: You will need a 3.75mm (US size F/5) for this shawl. I have hooks, and other useful crochet tools, linked in my Amazon Store if this is something you need.

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle and stitch markers (mine were from Mrs G Makes).

Gauge: 5htr = 2.5cm (1inch). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller shawl and will possibly use more or less yarn than quoted as a consequence. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size:  Part 1 – 50cm long, 33cm at widest point

If you need a reminder of the shawl schematic you can find it on the CAL Planning post.

The pattern below is in UK Terms:

ABBREVIATIONS

• RS                   Right Side
• cm                   Centimetre
• ch                    Chain
• sp                    Space
• st(s)                 Stitch(es)

STITCH GUIDANCE

• Magic ring (MR): is also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice and tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.
• Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
• Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
• Spike Stitch (SPtr): A Spike treble st is a treble in the stitch directly in the row below;  yarn over, insert hook in top of the stitch 1 row below, yarn over, pull to height of working row, (three loops on hook), complete treble stitch as normal (e.g. yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through two loops).
• Sprig Stitch: (2tr in the first st, ch3, 2tr in the next st, miss 2sts) on first row, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in the ch3-sp of the previous Sprig Stitch.

PATTERN NOTES

• This pattern is for a triangular shawl that starts from one point and grows with each row; increases are made on one side only.
• Add a stitch marker on the increase side, moving it onto the row as you work to help mark increase side.
• You may also find it useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch and the last stitch of each row.
• Check stitch counts at the end of each row to keep on track
• Keep any turning chains on the start of each row fairly loose so it doesn’t pull your work too tightly

CHART STITCH LEGEND

PATTERN – PART 1

Note: The ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a st

Row 1: (RS): With YARN A, MR, ch1, 2htr into the ring, turn. 2sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, 2htr in the next st (first increase, this will form the increase side), turn. 3sts

Row 3: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in each st across, turn. 4sts

Row 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st until the last st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 5sts

Rows 5 – 29: Repeat rows 3 – 4 twelve more times, and 3 once more, turn. 30sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Rows 30 – 32: Repeat rows 4 – 3 once and row 4 once more, turn. 33sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 33: Ch1, 2htr in first st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat six more times, 1htr in the last 3sts, turn. 34sts

Rows 34 – 35: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 36sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Row 36: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, SPtr in the next st, (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times, 1htr in the next st, 2htr in the last st, turn. 37sts

Rows 37 – 38: Repeat rows 3 and 4, turn. 39sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 39: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, 1htr in the next 2sts, SPtr in the next st (1htr in 3sts, SPtr in the next st), repeat seven more times, 1htr in the remaining 3sts, turn. 40sts

Rows 40 – 41: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 42sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Row 42: Ch1, 1htr in the first st, (SPtr in the next st, 1htr in 3sts), repeat nine more times, 2htr in the last st, turn. 43sts

Rows 43 – 44: Repeat rows 3 and 4, turn. 45sts

Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. Attach YARN A to the top of the last st worked;

Row 45: Ch1, 2htr in the first st, (SPtr in the next st, 1htr in 3sts), repeat ten more times, turn. 46sts

Rows 46 – 47: Repeat rows 4 and 3, turn. 48sts

Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends.

Attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

The next panel of the shawl will be worked in Sprig Stitch; at the start of the rows in this section the ch3 counts as a ‘tr’ st.

Row 48: Ch3, miss 2sts, (Sprig St) repeat ten more times across the row, miss 2sts, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in the last st, turn.  49sts

Row 49: Ch3, working in the ch-3sp from the previous row (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  50sts

Row 50: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 2tr in the last st, turn.  51sts

Row 51: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  52sts

Row 52: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat eleven more times across the row, [2tr between the 2tr and ch3 of the previous row, ch3, 2tr in the last st] counts as a Sprig St, turn.  53sts

Row 53: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn. 54sts

Row 54: Ch3, (Sprig St) in the last ch3-sp of row 53, then repeat twelve more times, 2tr in the last st, turn.  55sts

Row 55: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  56sts

Row 56: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat twelve more times across the row, [2tr between the 2tr and ch3 of the previous row, ch3, 2tr in the last st] counts as a Sprig St, turn.  57sts

Row 57: Ch3, (Sprig St) in the last ch3-sp of row 56; then repeat (Sprig St) thirteen more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn. 58sts

Row 58: Ch3, (Sprig St) repeat thirteen more times across the row, 2tr in the last st, turn.  59sts

Row 59: Ch3, 2tr in the next st, (Sprig St) repeat thirteen more times across the row, 1tr in the top of the beginning ch3 of the previous row, turn.  60sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Video Tutorial:

Click on the image below to be taken to a helpful video tutorial for this section …

Or alternatively find on Youtube here.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your shawls grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

• Follow on the blog
• Sign up to the KCACOUK newsletter
• Join the Facebook Group

The hashtags for this CAL are #LammasDayCAL #proud2craft #anchorcrafting and #kcacouk for Twitter and Instagram. We would also love it if you can tag KCACO.UK and AnchorCrafting on Instagram so we don’t miss your posts!

You can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest; re-pin from this board here.

 Save the project to your favourites on Ravelry 

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next three weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.