KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 2

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Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 2 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part2-HEBREW

Part 2: Hot-butter Popcorn Panel 

This weeks part is inspired by the extremely fun 1970’s song Popcorn by Hotbutter – you can have fun listening to it whilst you hook!  I love how a Popcorn stitch looks and how much texture Popcorn’s can add to a crochet project so I knew I wanted to add some into the pattern somewhere.  Almost by accident I discovered that a backwards (wrong side facing) Popcorn can actually look, in some respects, nicer than a forwards (right side facing) one – so I decided to throw that into the works as well! As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  62.5 yds (25 g / 75 m) Total panel 125 yds ( 50 g / 150 m)
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C but you could make the panel in a single colour if you don’t fancy adding the colour changes; just ignore the bits where I say cc to a different yarn.
  • Note 2: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern. When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured  yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate  long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,  * 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC * repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART2

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 2 directly to part 1 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details), or wait until you have completed parts 3, 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part2

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

DSC07272

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

PP-01

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-02

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,

PP-03

* 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st,

PP-04

1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC

PP-05

* repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

PP-06

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-07

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

PP-08

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-09

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-11

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-12

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

PP-13

And that’s it! Part 2 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 3 to be released on 10th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 1

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Yay let’s get started with Part 1 of the CAL shall we!!!! I’m so excited that so many of you have decided to join in the CAL with me this year!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part1-HEBREW

Part 1: Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square 

To me there is nothing more elegant than the traditional granny square – it’s iconic for a reason! It’s probably the first thing I was taught how to make and I still love how it looks.  The granny square was also huge in the 1960’s-1970’s and as much of my groovyghan design is inspired by that period I knew I had to include the granny square in our blanket. I completely didn’t invent this pattern but this is my twist on the timeless classic.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn left over from other projects and the basic granny square motif does not require advanced skills to execute – a perfect starting point to ease us in gently to our groovyghan!  

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern and a photo tutorial of how I have worked this pattern (see below).

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • 3tr/dc = 1 Cluster
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
  • Note 1: I used the same colour for rnd 3 on all of my granny squares to help with overall coordination – but worked different inners / outers to keep it groovy!
  • Note 2: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that I don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN C and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

KCACOUK CAL 2016 - Part 1

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 1 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 1 (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Joining

Photo Tutorial:

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

1. Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring

01-TUT

2. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)

02-TUT

3. 2 tr/dc into the ring,

03-TUT

 4. ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring,

05-TUT

5. ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,

06-TUT

6. then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

7. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

08-TUT

8. * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made),

09-TUT

9. repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

10. Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,

11-TUT

11.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

12-TUT

12. Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

13-TUT

13. * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,

14-TUT

14.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

15-TUT

15. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

16-TUT

And that’s it! Part 1 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 2 to be released on 27th January 2016.