I swear that today’s free pattern was meant to be born! I was playing around with some yarn and the play developed into a little rainbow applique….then when I went to pick up my girls from nursery / school would you believe what appeared…if that’s not a sign for me to share it with you guys then I don’t know what is!
Applique’s are great little embellishment’s to have in your crochet toolkit as they can be added to cushions, blankets, bags, hats or dresses! Or why not add to a badge or a key chain, or make into a magnet – so many options! Top tip:If you’re attaching a crocheted applique to something use sewing thread for a neater join-ability!
Small Rainbow Applique
Add the this pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queuehere.
Yarn
Scraps of yarn in each of the following colours:
YARN A – Blue
YARN B – Green
YARN D – Yellow
YARN C – Orange
YARN E – Red
Hook: 4mm hook (US size G)
Difficulty: Easy / Intermediate
Size: 7cm (2.8in) long x 4.5cm (1.8in) high
Gauge: 5dc/sc = 2.5cm (1in)
Establishing the correct gauge is not critical to this pattern. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc= UK double / US single crochet
BLO – Back Loop Only
Stitch Guidance:
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop and the 3rd loop of the stitch to make the stitch as indicated (see picture below) – this is to ensure there are no unsightly gaps.
Instructions:
Notes: The ch1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a st
Row 1: (RS) With YARN A ch8, 1dc/sc in second ch from hook, 1dc/sc in each st to end, turn. 7sts. Fasten off and weave in ends
Row 2: Attach YARN B in the BLO of the first st of the previous row, 1ch, 1dc/sc in same st as beg. ch, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 3dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the last st. 11sts. Fasten off and weave in ends
Row 3: Attach YARN C in the BLO of the first st of the previous row, 1ch, 1dc/sc in same st as beg. ch, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 3dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the last 2 sts. 15sts. Fasten off and weave in ends
Row 4: Attach YARN D in the BLO of the first st of the previous row, 1ch, 1dc/sc in same st as beg. ch, 1dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 3 sts, 3dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 3 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the last 3 sts. 19sts. Fasten off and weave in ends
Row 5: Attach YARN E in the BLO of the first st of the previous row, 1ch, 1dc/sc in same st as beg. ch, 1dc/sc in the next 3 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next st, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 2dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc in the last 4 sts. 24sts. Fasten off and weave in ends
And that’s it!
I hope you enjoy this little applique. I can’t wait to see how you use it! Make sure you link me your finished projects on Ravelry oryour favourite social media (FacebookTwitter, and Instagram) and if you are featured in my newsletter you could win a pattern of your choice!
And if you are now looking for another fun applique with Halloween coming up you might like to try next my Quick ‘n’ Easy Skull Applique.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
I’m feeling pleased with myself this week; I’ve finally finished one of my WIPs (work in progress) that I mentioned here that I have had hanging around for ages!
Back in December 2014 I was going through a tough time personally and decided I wanted to hook myself a rainbow to try to help cheer myself up. I think there is nothing quite like a crochet hook, a repetitive pattern and immersing yourself in colour as a type of therapy!
I decided to make a scrap blanket using bits of double-knit (8ply) that I’d got lying around which would work with a particular pattern I’d had my eye on for a while. The pattern in question is the lovely Corner-to-Corner Granny Stitch Throw by Kimberlie Goodnough. It’s a fun variation of granny stitch and C2C (corner to corner) styles that works great with bits and pieces of left over yarn. The pattern contains details on how to create a throw in any size you like. You can also use any yarn and any hook you want for bigger / smaller blankets.
I wanted something big enough for me and Little G (and now Little Miss) to snuggle under and so decided to make it quite large. My end blanket ended up roughly about 1.4 x 1.3 metres (4 ft 5″ x 4 ft 2″) so big enough to wrap us all in.
So without further ado let me show you it in all its finished loveliness!!
I lost track of how many colours I actually used up in the project but I have to say it’s been so pleasing hooking up a rainbow. After a lot of deliberation with border colour I finally decided to go with white (which I hadn’t included in the main rainbow) and which I think finished off the blanket really well. My husband has been ecstatic about the fact that I’ve used up some of my oddments of yarn that I’ve had lying around.
As I had hooked it over time with different tensions I did have to amend the border slightly from the one in the pattern (though not much) and I added crab stitch (reverse crochet) all around to finish it off because it’s just my most favourite ever edging and because this blanket is all mine!!
The worse bit about the project for me was my own fault…it was the weaving in of the billion ends! I tried to do it as I went but sometimes forgot so there was still a lot to weave in the end – someone seriously needs to invent a weaving in machine.
It now sits on the back of my chair ready for me to pull over us whilst watching TV of an evening or anytime my girls want to snuggle with me.
This was always going to be a long-term project but I must confess I didn’t think it would take me nearly 2 years to complete! I think it was worth the wait though, I’m so pleased with how it turned out in the end and I know it will get lots of use.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
So after weaving in a gazillion ends we have reached the grand finale of the 2016 Keep Calm and Crochet On UK “Everything is Cool and Groovyghan” CAL!!!
Don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedulehereand I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x
This project has been most definitely the most challenging thing I have ever designed and I am really pleased how it turned out in the end – and even more appreciative of the fact that so many of you joined in the CAL adding your own groovy vibes!
My groovyghan plan started in 2015 and looked a little something like this – which I don’t think ended up so different from the actual design…perhaps a few tweaks here and there but all to make it better in the end.
This is where I say a huge, huge thank you to my lovely testers (Kimberlie, Jenn, Angela, Anita & Peggy x) who helped make it possible for this diagram to became the pattern we all crocheted! I also want to thank the fabulous admins (Kimberlie, Michelle, Jenn & Kat x) of the Facebook group for their continued support throughout the CAL.
And now… the moment we’ve all been waiting for…the BIG REVEAL!
Tah-Dah!!! My finished blue lagoon Groovyghan (made for my wonderful husband who supports me with my hooks and yarn always x).
Just loving the cool blue / teals of my finished blanket!
All done!!
Trying to get the full blanket shot – never easy!
A little person wanted to be part of my photo shoot!
Nothing better than seeing your blanket in use!
It seems like such a short time ago that we started this groovy journey and I’m a little sad that it’s at an end – but looking forward to new CAL plans for 2017 so watch this space for details. There’s also some exciting patterns coming up that you won’t want to miss out on!
Thank you all again, for crocheting-a-long with me this year! I can’t wait to see your fabulous finished groovyghans; some of which, with kind permission, I’ll be sharing next week.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
WOW, we’ve made it!! Can you believe we are now on the border?!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelryclick here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be foundhereand you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 forFacebook, Twitter, PinterestandInstagramif you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
Before you can start your border all previous sections of the groovyghan must be joined together (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details). The border is worked directly onto the edges of your joined pieces, working all the way around all edges, to finish off your groovyghan.
Pattern:
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
P = picot
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Picot (P): Not all picot stitches are created the same, for this border; create three chain stitches from the point in your row where you want to add the picot stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through the top of the previous tr/dc, this is one picot stitch.
Picot Stitch Diagram
Pattern Guidance:
Rnd 1:To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 3 sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining YARN A to the corner sp and working 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.
If you have too many stitches this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed. In the corners I worked [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc].
Pattern:
Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * miss 3 sts, work 1 dc/sc in-between the sts of the previous rnd, ch 3 * repeat from * to * in each st around working [dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc] in each corner), sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends.
Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp and in each ch 3 sp along make 3 tr/dc, *in the next corner ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Rnd 4:Repeat rnd 2
Rnd 5:Repeat rnd 3
Rnd 6:Repeat rnd 2, but do not finish off, sl st to the nearest corner; continue to work the final edging in the same colour.
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [1 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp work 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc and in each ch 3 sp along * in the next corner ch 3 sp work [2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc] * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s it!
Congratulations your Groovyghan is finished!
Look out for the big reveal of my groovyghan on 7 September! Don’t forget to link me photos of your finished groovyghans I’d love to see them!
Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
And that’s it! Part 16 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew
It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!
I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!
Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.
Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details)
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
And that’s it! Part 15 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.
For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun. You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern Guidance:
Surface crochet: Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.
Pattern:
I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,
ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
And that’s it! Part 11 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.
Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 2 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part2-HEBREW
Part 2: Hot-butter Popcorn Panel
This weeks part is inspired by the extremely fun 1970’s song Popcorn by Hotbutter – you can have fun listening to it whilst you hook! I love how a Popcorn stitch looks and how much texture Popcorn’s can add to a crochet project so I knew I wanted to add some into the pattern somewhere. Almost by accident I discovered that a backwards (wrong side facing) Popcorn can actually look, in some respects, nicer than a forwards (right side facing) one – so I decided to throw that into the works as well! As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely. We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.
Written Pattern:
Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 62.5 yds (25 g / 75 m) Total panel 125 yds ( 50 g / 150 m)
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
cc = change colour
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
PC = Popcorn
Stitch Guidance:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C but you could make the panel in a single colour if you don’t fancy adding the colour changes; just ignore the bits where I say cc to a different yarn.
Note 2:When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern. When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate long unused strands carried across the back of the work.
Foundation Row: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 1:RS Facing – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC, * 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC * repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)
Row 3: RS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)
Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)
Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.
Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end). This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join parts 2 directly to part 1 now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelowfor details), or wait until you have completed parts 3, 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clipsto hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):
Start with a slip knot on your hook,
ch 2,
* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,
pull up a loop,
yarn over, pull through 1 loop,
yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *
1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):
Foundation Row: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 1:RS Facing – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,
* 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st,
1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC
* repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)
Row 3: RS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)
Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)
Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)
Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.
Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end). This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.
And that’s it! Part 2 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 3 to be released on 10th February 2016.
Yay let’s get started with Part 1 of the CAL shall we!!!! I’m so excited that so many of you have decided to join in the CAL with me this year!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
Edited to add:This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part1-HEBREW
Part 1: Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square
To me there is nothing more elegant than the traditional granny square – it’s iconic for a reason! It’s probably the first thing I was taught how to make and I still love how it looks. The granny square was also huge in the 1960’s-1970’s and as much of my groovyghan design is inspired by that period I knew I had to include the granny square in our blanket. I completely didn’t invent this pattern but this is my twist on the timeless classic.
Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn left over from other projects and the basic granny square motif does not require advanced skills to execute – a perfect starting point to ease us in gently to our groovyghan!
To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern and a photo tutorial of how I have worked this pattern (see below).
Written Pattern:
Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
3tr/dc = 1 Cluster
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Note 1: I used the same colour for rnd 3 on all of my granny squares to help with overall coordination – but worked different inners / outers to keep it groovy!
Note 2: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that I don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 1 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 1 (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
=
Photo Tutorial:
Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):
1. Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring
2. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)
3. 2 tr/dc into the ring,
4. ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring,
5. ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,
6. then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
7. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),
8. * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made),
9. repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
10. Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,
11. [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
12. Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),
13. * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,
14. [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
15. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
And that’s it! Part 1 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 2 to be released on 27th January 2016.
Following a poll I conducted on Facebook, about doing a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) for 2016, and if I did what we should do the CAL on, the resounding answer was for a ‘Groovyghan’. This is rather cool because I’ve always wanted to have a go at making one…and now I get to design one!
The ‘Everything is Cool and Groovyghan CAL’ will start on 13 January 2016. The tutorials for each part will be released every two weeks on a Wednesday on my blog where they will remain available forever.
This is a mystery crochet-along for a rectangular mixed motif blanket where either blocks or rows will be introduced every two weeks. Lots of different shapes and stitches will be incorporated so it won’t get boring and there will be plenty of opportunity to play with colour!
As well as posting information on this blog I’ll also be linking the information in my KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group, which if it’s anything like last year, is a great source for support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-Alongers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1512395979046485/
So on to the fine details of the CAL…this is a bit of a long post so bear with me!
DETAILS OF THE CAL:
There is no charge to join the CAL; anyone can join in as long as they have some yarn and a hook.
All featured pattern elements in the CAL will be FREE of charge patterns if released separately from the CAL.
For those that like a deadline I will be adding new details about each square every two weeks on a Wednesday at 7 pm-ish (GMT time) – see below for full schedule. For those that want to hook when they have the time then that’s fine too; no pressure to this CAL it’s all about having fun!
For this blanket I will be using double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 and a 4mm (US size G); though you could use worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook (US size H) for a larger blanket if you wish to.
I will be using both UK and US crochet terminology in the pattern (UK/US) so you can pick your preference. I will also always link a conversion chart and any helpful information about each element including links about special stitches with the release of each new section.
YARN:
I’ve designed this CAL to be a stash-buster to use up bits of yarn you might have lying around (in my case lots) or you can buy new. I estimate that you will need at least:
12 skeins of Double Knit (1200g / 3600m / 3936 yards) OR
Please note that these amounts are approximated – actual finished blankets may vary depending on yarn and hook used and own personal tension when crocheting. I would always round up a bit as some stitches take more yarn that others.
As for colours; well this giant bag of multi-toned blues from my stash is going to be the colours I use this time.
I would suggest, if you do buy new, that at a minimum of at least 3 colours would look best. I’m of the opinion this time that the more colours the merrier this time round – it is a groovyghan after all! If you are looking for inspiration for colours to use why not have a look at the Design Seeds website – though be prepared to loose a good chunk of your time ogling all the lovely colour schemes!
THE SCHEDULE:
January 13th – Part 1
January 27th – Part 2
February 10th – Part 3
February 24th – Part 4
March 9th – Part 5
March 23rd – Part 6
April 6th – Part 7
April 20th – Part 8
May 4th – Part 9
May 18th – Part 10
June 1st – Part 11
June 15th – Part 12
June 29th – Part 13
July 13th – Part 14
July 27th – Part 15
August 10th – Part 16
August 24th – Part 17 / Border
September 7th – BIG REVEAL
GROOVYGHAN SCHEMATIC:
As the groovyghan is made up from several different components I’ve drawn up this schematic for you to help with visualisation / joining together of each part.
I am so looking forward to see everyone’s groovy blankets develop over time! Stay tuned for part 1 released on January 13th.
