Category Archives: Crochet

The Enchanted Wood: Part 5 – Acorns

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by

Well we’ve now passed that half way point in the CAL! It’s part of 5 this week, then there are only 3 parts of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along left!

I’ve so enjoyed watching the pinecones develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing week by week!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

So are you are ready to get started on Part 5! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be adding some acorns onto the other sections we’ve already created.

Acorns or oaknuts are a big part of the woods we go for walks in. I love how these seeds come with their own little caps which I used to believe were worn by fairies. They are another thing that are fun to collect on woodland walks which meant that it was another element that I had to include in our CAL.

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

SHOP ENCHANTED WOOD YARN KITS

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

PURCHASE UK / US PATTERN

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

PURCHASE DUTCH PDF
Image of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 pinned to a tree in a woodland scene

The Enchanted Wood: Part 5 – Acorns

Yarn: 2 x 70g / 175m / 191yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Cameo (Shade 4287) -YARN F and 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Nutmeg (Shade 7147) -YARN G or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Saffron (Shade 1081) – use as YARN F and G

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 4 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 66.5cm (26”) wide x 104cm (40.9”) long.
  • In Special DK: 66.5cm (26”) wide x 107cm (42.5”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • 5 Treble Bobble (5Bob): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, [ yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook in same st ], and repeat […} four times (six loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
  • Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

SCHEMATIC – PART 5

Schematic of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 5

You will build part 5 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 4, then across part 3, then on the row ends of part 4 again.
  • We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 4.
  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
  • The chain stitches in rows 4—5 do count as a stitch.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN F around the post of the last st of Part 4; ch3, 1tr in the same st,[2tr around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] eleven times more, 1tr in the end post-sp of Part 3, BPtr in the next 69sts, 1tr in the end post-sp of Part 3, [2tr around the post of the next st] repeat { … ] twelves times more, turn. 54 tr / 69 BPtr / 123 sts

Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st ] repeat seventeen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 19 dc /4 tr / 20 x 5Bob / 2 x ch2-sps / 38 x ch3-sps     

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in 2sts, 2dc in the ch2-sp, [ 1dc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1dc and 1 htr in the next ch3-sp,

Lst around the dc of the previous row, 1htr and 1dc in the next ch2-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen times, 1dc on top of the next 5bob , 2dc in the ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 dc / 38 htr / 19 Lst / 123 sts

Note: Check your tension on rows 4—5, if you crochet tightly it may pull your row in slightly, if you know you have a tight tension you may wish to change to a bigger hook when working these rows.

Row 4: Ch1, 1dc in the next st [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat across, turn. 62 dc / 61 x ch1-sps / 123 sts

Row 5: Ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts [ ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat across until the last st, 1dc in the remaining st, turn. 63  dc / 60 x ch1-sps / 123 sts

Row 6: Ch1, 1dc in the next 2sts, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st ] repeat eighteen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn.  24 dc / 19 x 5Bob / 40 x ch3-sps / 123 sts     

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st [ 1dc and 1htr and in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next st (on the dc of the previous row), 1htr and 1dc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st ( on the 5Bob of the previous row) ] repeat from [ … ] eighteen more times, 1dc and 1htr  in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the next st, 1htr and 1dc  in the next ch3-sp, 1tr in the last two sts, turn. 59 dc / 40 htr / 24 tr / 123 sts

Rows 8 – 9: Repeat rows 4– 5, turn

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1dc in 2sts, 2dc in the ch2-sp, [ 1dc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1dc and 1 htr in the next ch3-sp, 1tr on the dc of the previous row, 1htr and 1dc in the next ch3-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen more times, 1dc in the next st, 2dc in the ch2-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 dc / 38 htr / 19 tr

Rows 12 – 19: Repeat rows 4 – 11

Rows 20 – 26: Repeat rows 4 – 10, turn

Row 27: Repeat row 3, turn

Rows 28 – 29: Repeat rows 4– 5. Fasten off YARN F and weave in ends. 123sts

With YARN G repeat rows 1 – 29 on the opposite short side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 in UK Terms

Pattern in US Terms:

Image of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 draped on a picnic bench in a woodland scene

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Single crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • 5 double crochet bobble (5Bob): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, [ yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook in same st ], and repeat […} four times (six loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Back Post double crochet  (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space
  • Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

SCHEMATIC – PART 5

Schematic of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 5

PATTERN – PART 5

You will build part 5 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 4, then across part 3, then on the row ends of part 4 again.
  • We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 4.
  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • The ch1 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
  • The chain stitches in rows 4—5 do count as a stitch.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN F around the post of the last st of Part 4; ch3, 1dc in the same st,[2dc around the post of the next st ] repeat from [ … ] eleven times more, 1dc in the end post-sp of Part 3, BPdc in the next 69sts, 1dc in the end post-sp of Part 3, [2dc around the post of the next st] repeat { … ] twelves times more, turn. 54 dc / 69 BPdc / 123 sts

Close up of Parts 3 and Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23

Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st ] repeat seventeen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 19 sc /4 dc / 20 x 5Bob / 2 x ch2-sps / 38 x ch3-sps     

Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in 2sts, 2sc in the ch2-sp, [ 1sc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1sc and 1 hdc in the next ch3-sp, Lst around the sc of the previous row, 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch2-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen times, 1sc on top of the next 5bob , 2sc in the ch2-sp, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 sc / 38 hdc / 19 Lst / 123 sts

Note: Check your tension on rows 4—5, if you crochet tightly it may pull your row in slightly, if you know you have a tight tension you may wish to change to a bigger hook when working these rows.

Row 4: Ch1, 1sc in the next st [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in the next st ] repeat across, turn. 62 sc / 61 x ch1-sps / 123 sts

Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in the next 2sts [ ch1, miss st, 1sc in the next st ] repeat across until the last st, 1sc in the remaining st, turn. 63  sc / 60 x ch1-sps / 123 sts

Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in the next 2sts, [ ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 5Bob in the next st ] repeat eighteen times more, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the next st, ch3, miss 2sts, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn.  24 sc / 19 x 5Bob / 40 x ch3-sps / 123 sts     

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st [ 1sc and 1hdc and in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st (on the sc of the previous row), 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch3-sp, 1sc in the next st ( on the 5Bob of the previous row) ] repeat from [ … ] eighteen more times, 1sc and 1hdc  in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the next st, 1hdc and 1sc  in the next ch3-sp, 1dc in the last two sts, turn. 59 sc / 40 hdc / 24 dc / 123 sts

Rows 8 – 9: Repeat rows 4– 5, turn

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn

Row 11: Ch1, 1sc in 2sts, 2sc in the ch2-sp, [ 1sc in the next st (should be on top of the 5Bob of previous row), 1sc and 1 hdc in the next ch3-sp, 1dc on the sc of the previous row, 1hdc and 1sc in the next ch3-sp ] repeat [ … ] eighteen more times, 1sc in the next st, 2sc in the ch2-sp, 1sc in the last 2sts, turn. 66 sc / 38 hdc / 19 dc

Rows 12 – 19: Repeat rows 4 – 11

Rows 20 – 26: Repeat rows 4 – 10, turn

Row 27: Repeat row 3, turn

Rows 28 – 29: Repeat rows 4– 5. Fasten off YARN F and weave in ends. 123sts

With YARN G repeat rows 1 – 29 on the opposite short side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 in US Terms

And that’s it! Part 5 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your acorns develop!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.


Designer Interview | Catherine Crochets

Posted in Blogging, British Crochet Designer, Crochet, Designer Interview, Inspiration by

I’m delighted to share a new fibre friend chat with you today. Join me in giving a big welcome to the KCACOUK blog to Catherine of Catherine Crochets.

Image of Catherine from Catherine's Crochet holding up a tapestry crochet blanket
© Catherine Crochets 2023

I had the pleasure of actually meeting Catherine at the end of last year, when I was a guest, and she was the guest designer at The Crochet Sanctuary. You will have no doubt come across her work, as I did, on social media and in magazines – she really has an eye for design using colour work and tapestry crochet.

I was delighted to have a go at her methods of tapestry crochet as we worked on her Winter Flora Cushion as our Crochet Sanctuary crochet workshop project. I thoroughly enjoyed making the cushion, and the tapestry stitch technique, so I wanted to find out a bit more about her designing processes and about her in general. Here’s what we chatted about…

Tell us a bit about yourself.

Hi Heather! Thanks for inviting me for this interview. It was great to meet you in November at the Crochet Sanctuary and chat all things “crochet designing” with you!

I’m a crochet designer from just outside London, in the UK. I live with my husband and two daughters. As you mentioned, I specialise in tapestry crochet. I absolutely love designing blankets with this technique although I’ve also produced a number of cushion and accessory designs too.

© Winter Flora Cushion – Catherine Crochets 2023

Have you always been crafty?

Yes, I’ve always loved crafts. I dabbled in lots of things as a child and my friends were really arty too so we inspired each other and were always making things. I took pottery classes for a few years, which I loved, and also tried lots of other arts and crafts like Fimo, calligraphy, quilling, painting, stamping, cross stitch… I don’t actually think I was particularly yarny as a child though, although I did learn the basics of how to knit.

How did you become a crochet designer? Do you do it full time?

I guess I fell into it a bit by chance really. I started crocheting when my youngest daughter was a toddler, mainly making blankets (with plenty of mistakes in them!). One day, I saw a tapestry crochet scarf online and I absolutely loved the look of it. I’d never seen that kind of crochet before. I thought it would be fabulous to make a blanket with lots of different tapestry crochet patterns on it. And so I came up with the Geo Georgie Blanket. It got a really great response from the crochet community on Instagram, which encouraged me to keep going with more designs and things just spiralled upwards from there.

Sadly, I don’t do it full-time, although I wish I could! I mainly fit it in during my evenings and weekends, and the odd lunchtime crochet break too!

© Geo Georgie Blanket – Catherine Crochets 2023

You really seem to enjoy colourwork and tapestry crochet – what is it about that style of crochet that you love?

I love patterns and spot them all over the place. I find it really exciting recreating these patterns in crochet, and tapestry crochet is the perfect technique for this. I especially love taking a motif, like a square or hexagon, with a colour work pattern on it and repeating it over a large blanket to create an even more striking pattern.

Can you tell us about where you draw your inspiration from?

Some is from nature – I really like leaves and flowers – and some is more abstract like pure geometric patterns. I see a lot of inspiration on textile items or even ceramic tiles, that I then love to try recreating with crochet.

© Midnight Diamond Blanket – Catherine Crochets 2023

What does your design process look like? Do you sketch things out first, or do you just like to grab a hook and start?

I always sketch first. I use a lot of squared paper as I find this is essential when coming up with a tapestry crochet design. I usually draw out a design on squared paper first and then work up a test swatch or motif from that. Mostly, it turns out a bit different to how I expected once I’ve worked it up in crochet, so I make a few tweaks and try again until I’m happy with it.

Sometimes, I plunge straight into making the project and write it all up at the end. However, recently I’ve been getting much better at making notes and starting to write it up as I go along. That saves a lot of time at the end!

Do you have a favourite creation that you’ve designed?

That’s a tough one! Can I pick two?

My personal favourite is my Clarissa Blanket. Both the colours and the pattern are so me. This was a design that I just couldn’t help but make!

However, in terms of getting me started and known as a designer, then I have to say my Midnight Diamond Blanket. This is by far my most popular pattern and I’m so grateful for the wonderful response it’s had and continues to receive.

© Clarissa Blanket – Catherine Crochets 2023

How do you fit everything in that you want to? Are you strict with yourself and your time or is it a struggle to juggle?

I never fit in everything that I’d like to! But I just do my best to do as much as I can and never miss an opportunity to work a bit more on a project. I make a lot of lists – I find that helps a lot – and I try not to be too hard on myself at not being able to do everything I want to straight away.

What advice or top tips would you suggest for anyone new to colourwork or tapestry crochet?

I’d say that it’s really not as hard as it looks. Watch or read a tutorial first, to get a feel for it. There are lots out there but I have a video tutorial on YouTube or a step-by-step guide on my blog that are both good places to start. Then just dive in with a pattern. I outlined a few relatively simple ones to start with in a blog post if anyone needs some inspiration.

Once you’ve got the hang of it, if you’d like to design your own, then all you need is some squared paper and colouring pencils and away you go!

What can we expect to see from Catherine Crochets in 2023?

This year, I’ve decided to focus on blankets as I love them and they are also my most popular patterns. I’m working on a new floral design at the moment using hexagons, which I’m really excited about.

I’m also hoping to create a tapestry crochet course with a series of patterns of increasing complexity, each introducing a new skill or aspect. That will be quite a big project for me of course, but I’m hoping to start work on it later this spring.

© Design in progress – Catherine Crochets 2023

And just for fun if you could have a superpower what would you choose?

I’ve always loved the idea of the time turner that Hermione uses in the Harry Potter books. It would be great to have the power to turn back time so that I could fit more crochet into each day!

I’d just like to take this opportunity to thank Catherine for taking time to chat to me. I’ve really enjoyed getting a better understanding of her life and designing process and hope you have too.

Follow Catherine everywhere on the web:  BLOG, INSTAGRAM and FACEBOOK and you can buy her patterns on RAVELRY and ETSY

Catherine also has an email list which you can sign up to here if you’d like to get news of new pattern releases and the biggest discounts on her patterns. Plus, you get two FREE tapestry crochet patterns just for signing up.

Pinterest Image for Fibre Friends Chat on the KCACOUKBlog

If you enjoyed this interview you can catch up on all the other designer chats and discussions with other people in the fiber industry. And if there’s any other people you’d like to maybe see featured here on the blog, let me know in the comments and I’ll see what I can do.

Make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts like this one, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.

Crochet Now Magazine | Peanuts Baby Loveys

Posted in Crochet, Magazine, Pattern Release, Tah-Dah, Yarn by

Get your little ones hooked on Peanuts early with these adorable official Snoopy and Woodstock baby blanket loveys – out now in issue 91 of Crochet Now magazine

Adorable Peanuts Loveys featuring Snoopy and Woodstock on a fluffy rug with toy building bricks
© Practical Publishing 2023 (Crochet Now Issue 91)

Stars of the Charles M. Schulz’s comic strip Peanuts, and later TV and movies, Snoopy is best known as the pet beagle of Charlie Brown and the small yellow bird, Woodstock, is Snoopy’s best friend. Everybody loves Snoopy and all fans of the iconic series will adore these super soft and cuddly lovey blankets.

There are so many options for little blankets for babies to cuddle and the right toy will do wonders for your kid’s comfort and confidence – my eldest fixed on a lovey as her ‘toy of choice’ so I personally think they are a great toy to make and gift.

Adorable Peanuts Lovey spread out so you can see the blanket section
© Practical Publishing 2023 (Crochet Now Issue 91)

I created Snoopy and Woodstock out of some Stylecraft Special DK which is 100% acrylic that comes in 100g balls [295 meters / 323yds] balls, it’s a yarn I’m very familiar with, one I’ve used so many times for different projects including this years crochet along. The only other things you need to make Snoopy and Woodstock is some, stitch markers, a tapestry needle and some toy stuffing.

The lovey section and the tops (hands and arms) are made in the round, working in the amigurumi style of continuous rounds without joining, they would make great beginners patterns for someone who’d like to try making an amigurumi.

❤️ SAVE THE PEANUTS LOVEYS ON RAVELRY ❤️

Snoopy and Woodstock Loveys spread out so you can see the blanket section
© Practical Publishing 2023 (Crochet Now Issue 91)

Issue 91, with my little Snoopy and Woodstock on the front cover, is full of lovely seasonal patterns and is available to buy from most supermarkets. Or you can grab a digital version from www.craftstash.co.uk/books-magazines

If you make up either Snoopy or Woodstock I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

Subscribe to the blog:

The Enchanted Wood: Part 4 – Pinecones

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by

Apologies for the delay with sending this out! Dodgy internet has had me trying for the last 6 hours but I’m not happy to say that this finally seems to be working!

Welcome to part 4 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the ferns develop from last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Collection of images of the KCACOUKCAL Part 3 made by others

So are you are ready to get started on Part 4! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be collection some pinecones to add onto part 2 and part 3.

Did you know that pine cones are actually the woody fruiting body and reproductive part of pine trees, the seeds are hidden by the textured scales on the cones. They are the texture of any woodland scene; many a time we’ve been on pine cone hunts with the kids and I often use them as natural decoration in my home – so I had to include them in our CAL.

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

SHOP ENCHANTED WOOD YARN KITS

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

PURCHASE UK / US PATTERN

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

PURCHASE DUTCH PDF
Image of KCACOUKCAL23 Part 4 - Pinecones hanging on a tree in the woods

The Enchanted Wood: Part 4 – Pinecones

Yarn: 2 x 65g / 162m / 178yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Natural (4443) – YARN D and 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Pumice (7154) – YARN E or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Camel (1420) – use as YARN D and E

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 4 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 64cm (24”) wide x 72cm (28”) long
  • In Special DK: 64cm (25”) wide x 67.5cm (26.5”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) once more (7 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 6 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. 
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 4

Schematic of Part 4 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 4

You will build part 4 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • To set up making Part 4 you will be working on the opposites sides of Part 3 directly onto Part 2.. With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 3, then across part 2, then on the row ends of part 3 again to build part 4.
  • We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 3.
  • The ch3 does counts as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Due to the nature of the puff stitches you might find that it makes Part 4 wider and slightly rippled, if you know that you crochet at a looser tension you may wish to use a smaller hook for this section e.g. 3mm (US size D/3).

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN D around the post of the last st of Part 3; ch3, 1tr in the same st, 2tr around each post until you reach the corner of Part 2, work 2tr in that space (24sts), then work BPtr in each st across until you reach the next corner of Part 2 (77sts), work 2tr in that space, then work 2tr around each post until the end, turn. 48 tr / 77 BPtr / 125sts

Close up of how Part 4 joins on to Part 3 of the KCACOUKCAL23

Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in each st across, turn. 125sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in the next 12sts, FPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the last 13 sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 FPtr / 125 sts

Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 4sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 4sts, turn. 72 tr / 8 BPtr / 27 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 3sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts,  FPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 3sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn. 54tr / 8 FPtr / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 5sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 BPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, FPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 FPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 36 tr / 8 BPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 7,turn.  36 tr / 8 FPtr / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the next st, 1 tr in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st [1tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 5 sts, ch1, miss st, 1tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the next 2sts, BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in the ch-sp,  ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1 tr in the ch-sp, 1tr in the last 2sts, turn. 54tr / 8 BPtr / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 11: Ch3, 1tr in next 12sts, 1FPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, 1FPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] six more times, 1tr in the last 13sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 FPtr / 125sts

Row 12: Ch3, 1tr in next 12sts, 1BPtr in the next st, [1tr in 13sts, 1BPtr in the next st] repeat [ … ] seven mores times, 1tr in the last 13sts, turn. 117 tr / 8 BPtr / 125sts

Row 13: Ch3, 1tr in each st across. 125sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends.

With YARN E repeat rows 1 – 13 on the opposite side of your work (see schematic for  guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 4 of the KCACOUKCAL23 in UK Terms

Pattern in US Terms:

Close up of the Pinecones section (Part 4) of KCACOUKCAL23; held up in the woods

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Puff Stitch (PF): Work puff stitches in this pattern as follows; Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop.  (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch / space, yarn over again and pull up a long loop) repeat from ( …) once more (7 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through 6 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook to close. 
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 4

Schematic of Part 4 of the KCACOUKCAL23

PATTERN – PART 4

You will build part 4 onto the right side of the CAL;

  • To set up making Part 4 you will be working on the opposites sides of Part 3 directly onto Part 2.. With the right side facing you will work on the row ends of part 3, then across part 2, then on the row ends of part 3 again to build part 4.
  • We will be adding rows, working from the bottom upwards, where there isn’t a st you will use post of sts of the row ends of Part 3.
  • The ch3 does counts as the first st, if this  produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Due to the nature of the puff stitches you might find that it makes Part 4 wider and slightly rippled, if you know that you      crochet at a looser tension you may wish to use a smaller hook for this section e.g. 3mm (US size D/3).

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN D around the post of the last st of Part 3; ch3, 1dc in the same st, 2dc around each post until you reach the corner of Part 2, work 2dc in that space (24sts), then work BPdc in each st across until you reach the next corner of Part 2 (77sts), work 2dc in that space, then work 2dc around each post until the end, turn. 48 dc / 77 BPdc / 125sts

Close up of how Part 4 joins on to Part 3 of the KCACOUKCAL23

Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in each st across, turn. 125sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in the next 12sts, FPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the last 13 sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 FPdc / 125 sts

Row 4: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the

next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 4sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 4sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 4sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 4sts, turn. 72 dc / 8 BPdc / 27 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 3sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts,  FPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 3sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 3sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn. 54dc / 8 FPdc / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 6: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1PF in the next 5sts, 1PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the ch-sp, 1 PF in the next 5sts, 1 PF in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 BPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 FPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 8: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 7sts, ch1 miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, ch1, miss st, 1 1 PF in the next 7sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 36 dc / 8 BPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 7,turn.  36 dc / 8 FPdc / 63 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 10: Ch3, 1dc in the next st, 1 dc in the ch-sp, ch1 miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st [1dc in the next 2sts, 1dc in the ch-sp, ch1, miss st, 1 PF in the next 5 sts, ch1, miss st, 1dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] across six more times, 1dc in the next 2sts, 1dc in the ch-sp,  ch1, miss st, 1PF in the next 5sts, ch1, miss st, 1 dc in the ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2sts, turn. 54dc / 8 BPdc / 45 PF / 18 x ch1-sps / 125 sts

Row 11: Ch3, 1dc in next 12sts, 1FPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, 1FPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] six more times, 1dc in the last 13sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 FPdc / 125sts

Row 12: Ch3, 1dc in next 12sts, 1BPdc in the next st, [1dc in 13sts, 1BPdc in the next st] repeat [ … ] seven mores times, 1dc in the last 13sts, turn. 117 dc / 8 BPdc / 125sts

Row 13: Ch3, 1dc in each st across. 125sts

Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends.

With YARN E repeat rows 1 – 13 on the opposite side of your work (see schematic for guidance). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial chart of Part 4 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - US terms

And that’s it! Part 4 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your stars begin to emerge!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.


Crochet Pattern | Malmsmead Mitts

Posted in Crochet by

Howdy, how are you all doing today? Hope you are all good where you are.

February is quite typically sooo cold and grey here in the UK, though we have been enjoying some winter sun lately, but it’s still been freezing – which means there is no better time to release something woolly! Allow me to introduce the Malmsmead Mitts.

Image of the crocheted Malmsmead fingerless mitts on a pair of hands leaning on a tree in a woodland setting

John Arbon Textiles have recently updated their classic Exmoor sock range, and I was delighted to try out one of their new colours combined with one of the lovely existing shades for my latest project.

Exmoor Sock is what you’d probably class as proper wool (if that makes sense), it’s a 4ply yarn that is a combination of Bluefaced Leicester, Blueface Exmoor, Devon Zwartbles and Falklands Corriedale breeds. As the name suggests it is designed to be perfect for socks but it’s still versatile enough to suit garments and accessories that suit a hard wearing, machine washable yarn.

Flat lay image of John Arbon Exmoor Sock yarn in Bell Heather and Fairy Thimble shades

After using it I would imagine it would actually make fantastically robust socks, however I had a different plan in mind. My husband does a lot of hiking and I understand that wool socks in particular have the ability to manage moisture and regulate temperature. They keep sweat away from your feet meaning feet stay drier so are comfortable in both cool and warm conditions. And if its good enough for feet, wouldn’t it be just as good for hands (I thought to myself), and that’s how the Malmsmead Mitts came into being!

For my mitts I used the original rich magenta Bell Heather shade (because it literally had my name on it!) combined with their new light pinkish Fairy Thimble. I love that the colours are based on the natural shades you would see in the beautiful landscape that makes up Exmoor National Park. The Bell Heather is based on the moorland shrub (that gives me my name) and the Fairy Thimble inspired by the colour of foxgloves (isn’t that a lovely image; fairy thimbles!).

The name for the mitts comes from an actual place; Malmsmead is a rural hamlet sitting on the border of Somerset and Devon. It’s nestled in the Exmoor valleys and is classed as a bit of a nature lovers paradise. Malmsmead is also the gateway to the Doone valley which was made famous by RD Blackmoor in his famous novel Lorna Doone set in the drama of the Exmoor landscape.

I like the think that these mitts would be the perfect thing to wear on a wild and windy walk on the moors, obviously by a heroine of some kind, and the stitch pattern does remind me of clumps of bell heather – see what you think when you make them.

The pattern comes in three different sizes (small, medium and large) size with a cm or so (1/2 inch) negative ease. The stitch pattern I’ve used has such a pleasing texture that I want to use it again – maybe for a matching cowl, what do you think?

Image of two pairs of crocheted Malmsmead Mitts, in different sizes, are resting on a fallen log in a woodland setting

The written pattern for Malmsmead Mitts is now available in all of my pattern shops with 25% off for the next couple of weeks on Ravelry and Etsy (see code below):

Ravelry
LoveCrafts
Etsy
Ribblr

As I mentioned I used a combination of Exmoor sock in Bell Heather for the cuff and Fairy Thimble for the main mitt, which is a 4ply yarn, with a 3mm (US size approx. D3), I say the pattern works best in a solid colour, rather than variegated, so you can see the stitch pattern.

The pattern is 8 pages long and it’s written, as usual, in both UK and US terms, I have also added a flatlay chart for each size of mitts as a helpful visual guide. The patterns are worked in rows for the cuff and then in rounds for the main body of the mitt and I would suggest they are suitable for a more intermediate crocheter – though there is nothing to stop an adventurous beginner having a go!

Pin for Later:

Collage for Pinterest of the crocheted Malmsmead Mitts

If you fancy 25% off the pattern price just enter the coupon code: MALMSMEAD25 on either Ravelry or Etsy until 22 February to save.

I really enjoyed making these mitts, so I’m definitely not done with mitt designs yet in fact I’ve got another in the pipelines which I’m hoping will be one of my first releases in February. And I’ve thoroughly enjoyed using the John Arbon Textiles yarn, in fact if you are a fan too I’ve got a pattern using their yarns scheduled later in the year – so watch this space for that.

If you like this pattern please give it a love, or leave a comment or review on the platform you got it from when you’ve made it up, as a small biz all support and shares are very much appreciated! I hope you’ll share any finished photos with me on social media (facebook, twitter or instagram) or as a project on Ravelry – I love to see what you make! And finally you may wish to make sure you are signed up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, discounts or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

Subscribe to the blog:

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected, thank you for your support.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 3 – Ferns

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by

Welcome to part 3 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared of the last part, aren’t they wonderful! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Collage of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL made by others

So are you are ready to get started on Part 3! For the next part of the CAL we are going to be creating some ferns at the top and the bottom of our beginning tree and buds motif.

With their interesting foliage and textures ferns are a big feature of the woods near us. They get so big in summer that the block off some of the pathways and I love that they curl up as a means of self-protection from the cold (I do the same).

Inspirational photo of ferns in a wood for Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

SHOP ENCHANTED WOOD YARN KITS

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

PURCHASE UK / US PDF PATTERN

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

PURCHASE DUTCH PDF
Image of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL; textured crocheted panel on display in front of lots of ferns

The Enchanted Wood: Part 3 – Ferns

Yarn: 65g / 162m / 178yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Bluestone (4764) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Mocha (1064) – YARN C

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 3 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 37cm (14.5”) wide x 72cm (28”) long
  • In Special DK: 38.5cm (15”) wide x 75.5cm (26.5”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 3

Schematic of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

PATTERN – PART 3

  • Part 2 ended with; 69sts on each short side / 77 sts on each long side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total
  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN C in the top corner of a short side (at the top of the tree). Ch3 (counts as first tr here and throughout), 1BPtr around the next st and in each st across until the next ch3-sp, 1tr in this sp, turn. 2 tr / 69 BPtr / 71 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1dc in 8sts, ch1, miss the next st, [1dc in the next 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1dc in 8sts, turn. 61dc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in 7sts, ch1, miss the next st [ 1tr in 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1tr in 8sts, turn. 61tr + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Apart from the start and finish of the row the ferns are worked over 5sts;

Row 5: Ch3, 1tr in 3sts, [ miss the next st two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPtr around the post of the next st (the dc of the row below), then working backwards, FPdtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, then working on the current row, 1tr in the next st, ch1, miss the next st, 1tr in the next st ] repeat ten times, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn. 22 FPdtr / 11 FPtr / 28 tr / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Charts of rows 1-5 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1tr in 2sts, miss the next st two rows below, [ FPdtr around the next FPdtr two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPtr in the next st on the current row, FPdtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, FPdtr around the FPdtr two rows below, ch1 ] repeat ten times, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn. 44 FPdtr / 7 tr / 10 FPtr /10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 7:                

Charts of rows 1-7 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 9:            

Charts of rows 1-9 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 11: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 12: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 13: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 14: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 15: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 16: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 17: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 19: Ch3, 1tr in the next 4sts, 1FPdtr around the next st two rows below, 1tr in the next 2sts, {ch1, miss the next st, 1tr in the next 2sts, 1FPdtr in the next st two rows below, 1tr in the next 2sts] repeat 9 times, 1tr in the last 3sts, turn  11 FPdtr / 50 tr / 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 20: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 21: Ch3, 1tr in each st and ch-sp across.. Fasten off and weave in ends. 71 sts

With YARN C repeat rows 1 – 21 on the opposite short side of your work (at the bottom of the tree). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial Chart of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Pattern in US Terms:

Image of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL; textured crocheted panel on display on top of a cut tree stump

Stitch Guidance:

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SCHEMATIC – PART 3

Schematic of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

PATTERN – PART 3

Part 2 ended with; 69sts on each short side / 77 sts on each long side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

  • The ch3 does count as the first st, if this produces too much of a gap at the start of a row it can be substituted for a ch2.
  • Each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPtr it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1: Sl st to join YARN C in the top corner of a short side (at the top of the tree). Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 1BPdc around the next st and in each st across until the next ch3-sp, 1dc in this sp, turn. 2 dc / 69 BPdc / 71 sts

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in 8sts, ch1, miss the next st, [1sc in the next 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1sc in 8sts, turn. 61sc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in 7sts, ch1, miss the next st [ 1dc in 5sts, ch1, miss the next st] repeat eight times, 1dc in 8sts, turn. 61dc + 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 4: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Apart from the start and finish of the row the ferns are worked over 5sts;

Row 5: Ch3, 1dc in 3sts, [ miss the next st two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPdc around the post of the next st (the sc of the row below), then working backwards, FPtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, then working on the current row, 1dc in the next st, ch1, miss the next st, 1dc in the next st ] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn. 22 FPtr / 11 FPdc / 28 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 5: 

Charts of rows 1-5 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 6: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 7: Ch3, 1dc in 2sts, miss the next st two rows below, [ FPtr around the next FPtr two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next st two rows below, 1FPdc in the next st on the current row, FPtr around the post of the same st just worked two rows below, FPtr around the FPtr two rows below, ch1 ] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn. 44 FPtr /11 FPdc/  6 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 7: 

Charts of rows 1-7 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 8: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 9: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

See diagram help below for row 9:      

Charts of rows 1-9 of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

Row 10: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 11: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 12: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 13: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 14: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 15: Repeat row 7, turn. 71 sts

Row 16: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 17: Repeat row 5, turn. 71 sts

Row 18: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 19: Ch3, 1dc in the next 4sts, 1FPtr around the next st two rows below, 1dc in the next 2sts, {ch1, miss the next st, 1dc in the next 2sts, 1FPtr in the next st two rows below, 1dc in the next 2sts] repeat 9 times, 1dc in the last 3sts, turn  11 FPtr / 50 dc / 10 x ch1-sps / 71sts

Row 20: Repeat row 2, turn. 71 sts

Row 21: Ch3, 1dc in each st and ch-sp across.. Fasten off and weave in ends. 71 sts

With YARN C repeat rows 1 – 21 on the opposite short side of your work (at the bottom of the tree). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Partial Chart of Part 3 of the Enchanted Wood CAL

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to se your stars begin to emerge!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL21 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.


Peppermint Pageant MAL | The Reveal & Pattern Release

Posted in Collaboration, Crochet, Crochet Accessories, Crochet Kit, Independent Design, Pattern Release by

Howdy, how are you all today? I’m just popping on today to tell you of my first pattern release of 2023!

The 26th of January was the last ‘official’ day of the latest make along that has been hosted by The Yarn Whisperer and myself. From the 26 December 2022 until now, over a month later, we have enjoyed our winter make along project with a bunch of lovely mal’ers. And now I get the opportunity to share my finished Peppermint Pageant Stocking, and it’s pattern, with you!

Image of a green, white and red Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stocking

Inspired by Christmas colours of red, white and green and by hand made Scandinavian fairisle type patterns I really enjoyed coming up with my own tapestry crochet version of a tradition stocking.

As always it’s been an absolute delight to work with Kitey and his gorgeously coloured yarn, I love these collabs we do – it always provides me with an opportunity to work with gorgeous yarn which in turn makes the design process super enjoyable.

The Aran yarn in this case was such a beautiful yarn to crochet with and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the slight variations of the semi solid colours come through as I worked each stitch.

Image of a work in progress Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stocking

If this is the first you’ve heard about the The Peppermint Pageant MAL you can read more about it here but in a nutshell it’s the result of a wonderful collaboration between myself and Kitey, aka The Yarn Whisperer, of a unique crocheted stocking designed with a special hand dyed yarn in mind.

It’s made us both incredibly happy to see the photos of folks sharing their progress with us on social media and I hope you will continue to do so as you finish your stockings if you haven’t had chance to make it yet.

Images of various works in progress and finished Peppermint Pageant crochet tapestry Christmas stockings

Although the official end date of the MAL has come to an end DO NOT feel any panic or worry that you didn’t keep up or haven’t even started yet. The deadline was there just for those people that like a deadline, for everyone else, enjoy it when you have the time to use the yarn and / or make the stocking – there is no rush to this crochet makealong! And sometime in the future you will have a beautiful finished object that you can gift for someone special or to enjoy yourself.

Image of the crocheted Peppermint Pageant stocking hanging up on a fireplace.

Now that the MAL is over, I have listed the pattern in my usual pattern stores for you to make your own version of the The Peppermint Pageant Stocking.

Ravelry
LoveCrafts
Etsy
Ribblr

I would suggest three different colours work best, I used 100g / 166m of a main colour (e.g. White) and 50g / 83m in contract colours (e.g. Green and Red) and a 5mm (US size H/8) hook.

If you’d like to pick up this specific kit colourway then you can pick it up from Kitey and EXCITEDLY the Peppermint Pageant kits are getting an upgrade for 2023. This design and yarn combo are going to be the first make-along kit that will keep going this year. Kitey is coming up with some exciting new colourways as we speak that I can’t wait to see come together (I’m looking at you teal and silver – oooo!)

The pattern has a written version, a chart and comes with a bonus pattern to make your own mini hanging stocking decorations – Kitey and I always like to add a little extra something for those scraps of leftover yarn! The pattern comes with all explanation of stitches used and is available in either UK or US terminology.

We do hope that you’ve enjoyed this fun make-along, I know Kitey and I have thoroughly enjoyed it – in fact we’ve already got our plans in the works for our annual summer make-along! I’m already excited about it – we will be looking to release, as before, in July but details will be sent out before that to give folks plenty of time to sign up if they want to.

Make sure you are signed up to the blog (or my newsletter) and The Yarn Whisperer newsletter to make sure you are the first to know when the new collaboration project is revealed!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature

The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Posted in Crochet, Crochet Along, Free Patterns by

Welcome to part 2 of The Enchanted Wood Crochet Along! I’ve so enjoyed watching the trees grow last week in the Facebook group and Instagram! It’s so lovely to see the crochet community come together around the project, from all parts of the world, and to help each other out with queries and tips – as the designer of the project I can’t tell you how lovely it is to see your work progressing!

Below you can see some of the wonderful photos of the CAL that have been shared so far, aren’t they fabulous! If you want to link your photos the hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can also join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, my Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Selection of photos, made by the crochet community, of Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23

So are you are ready to crack on with part 2! For the second part of the CAL we are going to be working little buds around our tree using a special stitch to create some fabulous texture.

A bud is a small pointed lump that appears on a tree or plant and develops into a leaf or flower – that’s why I’ve chosen it for the next part of our crochet-along, the wood is growing around our tree!

Inspirational photo for KCACOUKCAL23 - Little Buds

As before, as well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

SHOP ENCHANTED WOOD YARN KITS

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

PURCHASE UK / US PATTERN PDF

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

PURCHASE DUTCH PATTERN PDF
Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 pinned onto a tree trunk

The Enchanted Wood: Part 2 – Little Buds

Yarn: 80g / 200m / 219yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Seafoam (7143) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Parchment (1218) – YARN B

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 2 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 37cm (14.5”) wide x 40cm (15.7”) long
  • In Special DK: 38.5cm (15”) wide x 43.5cm (17”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Back Post Treble (BPtr): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • [[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a stitch as you would a front post treble. Working around the post of the next double crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.  

PATTERN – PART 2

  • Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first tr + ch-3 here and throughout), 1tr in same corner sp, then work 1BPtr around the next st and in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work dc in the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning dc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in. 59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, {[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the last 3sts, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1dc in the last 4sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 4sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1dc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr) in same corner-sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1tr in the next st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in the next corner sp, 1tr in the next st, LSt around the next, [1tr in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1tr in the last st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (dc, ch3, dc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the  LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1dc in the last 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in the corner sp, 1dc in the next 2sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below, [1dc in the next 3sts, FPdc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1dc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning dc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1tr in same corner sp), then work 1tr in each st around working (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPtr when it should have been BPtr, written instructions were correct.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Back Post double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work

Right hand side (RHS): This indicates the right side of your work

[ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified

[[ .. ]] Repeat section in double square brackets until specified

( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

Leaf Stitch (LSt): The leaf hopper stitch is worked around the post of a                     

stitch as you would a front post double crochet. Working around the post of the next single crochet stitch indicated; [yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front, yarn over and pull up a loop], repeat twice more (seven loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

PATTERN – PART 2

Part 1 ended with; 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnd 1: Sl st to join YARN B to the RHS 3ch-sp on the short side; ch6 (counts as first dc + ch-3 here and throughout), 1dc in same corner sp, then work 1BPdc around the next st and in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 55sts each long side / 47sts each short side / 204sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Rnds 2 – 3: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work sc in the next st and in each st around working (1sc, ch3, 1sc) in each corner, sl st to the top of the beginning sc to join. 57sts each long side / 49sts each short side / 212sts in total + 4 x 3ch-sps in.

59sts each long side / 51sts each short side / 220sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in  total

Note: On the next rnd you will work the Leaf Stitch (SEE SPECIAL STITCH GUIDANCE), Please note that the next st directly after the leaf st will be partially obscured. Don’t forget to work in this st to finish with the right stitch count, you may wish to check your stitch count as you go.

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, {[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] eleven times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the last 3sts, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 61sts each long side / 53sts each short side / 228sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the   LSt below] repeat ten times, 1sc in the last 4sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 4sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat twelve times, 1sc in the next 4sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 63sts each long side / 55sts each short side / 236sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 6 – 7: Repeat rnds 2-3; 65sts each long side / 57sts each short side / 244sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 67sts each long side / 59sts each short side / 252sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 8: Sl st to the next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc) in same corner-sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [[1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ] repeat […] thirteen times, 1dc in the next st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in the next corner sp, 1dc in the next st, LSt around the next, [1dc in the next 3sts, LSt around the next ]] repeat […]  fifteen times, 1dc in the last st, (1dc, ch3, 1dc), repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 69sts each long side / 61sts each short side / 260sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 9: Sl st to the next corner sp, ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same sp, then work [[ 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below,

[1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat thirteen times, 1sc in the last 2sts, (sc, ch3, sc) in the corner sp, 1sc in the next 2sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below, [1sc in the next 3sts, FPsc around the top of the LSt below] repeat fifteen times, 1sc in the next 2sts ]] repeat from [[…]] once more, sl st in beginning sc to join. 71sts each long side / 63sts each short side / 268sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnds 10 – 11: Repeat rnds 2-3; 73sts each long side / 65sts each short side / 276sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total; 75sts each long side / 67sts each short side / 284sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Rnd 12: Sl st to next corner sp, (ch6, 1dc in same corner sp), then work 1dc in each st around working (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in each corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning 6ch to join. 77sts each long side / 69sts each short side / 292sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EDITED: Chart corrected on 28/01/2022 as incorrectly showing FPdc when it should have been BPdc, written instructions were correct.

Part 2 of the KCACOUKCAL23 held up in front of a woodland scene

And that’s it! Part 2 completed! I look forward to seeing your progress later this week.

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.


Giveaway | Win tickets for The Stitch Festival

Posted in Competitions, Crochet, Outings, Sale / Special Offer, Yarn Show by

EDITED: Giveaway now closed, congratulations to; Ann C, Tracey L, Charlie P, @Catherinecrochets and @shearsfiona

How would you like to win some FREE tickets to The Stitch Festival which returns to the Business Design Centre, Islington, London from 23-26 March 2023?

The Stitch Festival Logo - Business Design Centre, Islington, London from 23-26 March 2023

London’s hottest event for contemporary stitchers is back! The annual four-day creative extravaganza is a ‘must go’ for craft fans, with more than 230 hands-on workshops hosted by top tutors, designers and makers. 

Dressmaking, upcycling and slow fashion are a major focus for The Stitch Festival, with a dedicated Dressmaking Studio (sponsored by Brother), an overlocker workshop programme, and a Dressmaking Competition that shines a spotlight on the skills and talents of home dressmakers. Open to sewists of all levels, there are categories for Eveningwear, Loungewear, Childrenswear, Knitwear and Crochetwear, Upcycled or Repurposed garments, and new for 2023, Menswear. 

Two ladies looking at different fabrics at The Stitch Festival
© The Stitch Festival 2023

Eagle-eyed judges from the worlds of fashion and textiles (past judges have included Esme Young, Lisa Comfort and Nerrisa Pratt) will be looking for excellence in technical skills, stitching and creative flair. With prizes for category winners, a Janome Sewing Machine worth £650 for ‘Best in Competition’, and a Finalists’ Fashion Show on Sunday 26 March, Stitch Festival visitors can expect some exciting highlights. Competition entry submissions must be made by Friday 24 February 2023. For full entry information, visit www.thestitchfestival.co.uk/dressmaking-competition/  

Portrait of Katie Jones, Crochet Designer surrounded by colourful crochet samples and yarn
© The Stitch Festival 2023 – Katie Jones (Photo by Rachel Manns)

There are yarny things to look forward to too at the Festival. This year crochet designer Katie Jones has designed The Stitch Festival’s Crochet Lounge where she will be hosting crochet lessons and book signings. There are also so many workshops, just search ‘Crochet’ for a list of all the hooky ones – or try your hand at a new craft. In terms of crochet they include sessions on Mosaic crochet, Tunisian Crochet, Broomstick crochet lace and Freeform crochet to name a few.

Textile artist Jen Cable’s project, Knitted Lives, will be a celebration of contemporary knitting, exploring the lives and stories of everyday knitters, while best-selling author and craft entrepreneur, Isabella Strambio, will be inviting Festival goers to awaken their creativity as she shares her passion for macrame.   

Image of Knitted Jen Cable by Sophie Hoare
© The Stitch Festival 2023

Looking for inspiration for new projects? The Festival’s Stitch Stage features free demonstrations, presentations and Q&As with some favourite faces from the knit and stitch world. On Saturday 25 March, the Instagram Makers’ Catwalk features garments made and modelled by talented Insta makers, supported by independent pattern makers and fabric companies. 

Last but not least, there’s shopping, with more than 150 specialist retailers under one roof and special Stitch Festival deals to be had, plus all that vibrant Islington has to offer with its stores, restaurants, bars and cafes.  Hot and cold refreshments are available throughout the venue, with seating areas for picnics.

Although I can’t make it to this particular show, I’ve enjoyed the visits to these Stitching Shows in the past. If you fancy a read about those experiences you can read about them here and here.  

Stitch20

So on with the bit you’ve been waiting for! The giveaway details! I’ve got FIVE pairs of tickets to giveaway hurray!!! I’m giving away THREE pairs away here on the blog and TWO pairs away on Instagram.

GIVEAWAY

All you need to do to enter the giveaway is either leave a comment on the bottom of this blog post about why you’d like to go to the show or do the same over on my Instagram post.

The competition closes on Wednesday 1st February at 7pm (GMT). Winners will be contacted via the email supplied from their comment or by DM on social media.

Tickets are valid after 10am on Thursday 23rd, Friday 24th, Saturday 25th or Sunday 26th March. The organisers will not issue paper tickets. Winners will be emailed a link to register online with a unique code per pair of tickets and will receive e-tickets by email. When entering this competition you must be therefore happy to provide me with a your email address for this purpose, your email address will not be used in any other way.

However if you want some tickets now scroll down for an exclusive special offer!

Giveaway image to win tickets for the Stitch Festival 2023
© The Stitch Festival 2023

SPECIAL DISCOUNT

Advance adult tickets for The Stitch Festival are £16.50 from Thursday to Saturday (concessions £15, children aged 5-18 years £7.50) – transaction fees apply. Full ticket information is available at The Stitch Festival website www.thestitchfestival.co.uk. Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment. Opening hours are 10am-5.30pm on Thursday-Saturday and 10am-3pm on Sunday.  Visitors are encouraged to book in advance to avoid disappointment. 

But if you want your ticket RIGHT NOW I’ve also got a special discount for you! Just quote: CROCHETON23 to get £2 off advance adult tickets /and concessions.

Please note that the discount ends at 23.59pm on Wednesday 22 March 2023.

I’d like to say a big thank you again to the shows organisers for offering this special deal to my lovely KCACO.UK readers! 

Good Luck everyone!

Stay connected

I’d love to stay connected with you so please do sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, giveaways, special offers or new pattern releases are available.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Subscribe to the blog:

The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns by

Hooray! It’s here! Week 1 of our Enchanted Wood Crochet Along and I’m super excited to start this journey of 8 weeks to create a new unique blanket and hopefully some wonderful crochet memories too!

The first part of our CAL is the building block of the whole blanket (quite literally) so I thought it was appropriate to make it the centre of our Enchanted Wood, this is my Wishing Tree. Trees are a universal symbol of hope, life and resilience, so how better to start a CAL!

Inspirational shot of a large tree in the middle of a woodland

This week we are going to be working in rows and rounds to create a central tree motif, with lots of textured stitches created with front post and popcorn stitches.

As well as the written pattern I have included a crochet chart for each section as an extra visual tool – and I’ve also broken the chart down into sections so you can see how the tree grows line by line. If you are not familiar with reading charts, you you might find my blog post about ‘How to read a crochet chart’ a useful starting point.

Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree

If you are brand new to the CAL you can find all the information you need on the CAL landing page, where I’ll link all the CAL posts in one place as I add them here to the blog. Yarn packs are available from the lovely folks at Black Sheep Wools and there are a number of CAL accessories that are also available from some fabulous small businesses (that I talked a little more about here).

SHOP ENCHANTED WOOD YARN KITS

The pattern for this crochet along will be available for free here on the blog but sometimes it’s easier to have a printable PDF to refer to. The whole pattern therefore will also be available in a printer friendly PDF version in my Ravelry store (for a one off payment). Each weekly instalment will become ready for immediate download in either UK or US terms. As with any purchase you make of my patterns your support of me and my crochet endeavours is very much appreciated – thank you for supporting my work!

PURCHASE UK / US PATTERN PDF

A Dutch version of the pattern will be put together by the very lovely Iris from Eenmooigebaar via the link below. Iris has brilliantly translated a range of my patterns before (these are also available on the website) so I’m delighted she’s joining us again this time.

PURCHASE DUTCH PATTERN PDF
Photo of part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23 - The Enchanted Wood; The Tree. The central motif is shown pinned to a tree trunk in a wood.

The Enchanted Wood: Part 1 – The Tree

Yarn: 62g / 155m / 164yds or 1 x 100g ball of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton and Bamboo in Ecru (7128) or alternatively 1 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK in Cream (1005) – YARN A

Hook: 3.5 mm (US size E/4)

You will also need: Scissors, A yarn needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 htr sts = 2.5cm (1”). Gauge is not critical for this design, with each part I will provide the size of my work. If your gauge does not meet mine it will just mean you will end up with a bigger or smaller blanket. If you wish to match my gauge you might try going up a hook size if your tension is quite tight, or going down a hook size if your tension is looser.

Finished Size (Unblocked):  Part 1 Approximate measurements:

  • In Naturals 24.5cm (9.6”) wide x 27.5cm (10.8”) long.
  • In Special DK: 26.5cm (10.25”) wide x 30.5cm (11.75”) long.

The pattern below is in UK Terms, scroll down for US Terms:

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Double Treble (dtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Treble (FPdtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Double Treble two together (FPdtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 tr in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st tr (1st tr of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

  • The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;
  • From row 5 each FPdtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,
  • When you work a FPdtr or FPdtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1htr in the 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st , 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37htrs / 4 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 5:                          

Row 5 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 7: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPdtr), 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPdtr2tog over the next two FPdtr two rows below, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPdtr around the post of the next st, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 4 FPdtr / FPdtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 7 of the KCACOUKCAL23 Chart

Row 8: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 9: Ch1, 1htr in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPdtr around the top of the FPdtr2tog two rows below, [1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1htr in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 9 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 10: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn


Row 11: Ch1, 1htr in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 11 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 12: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn

Row 13: Ch1, 1htr in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 13 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 14: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36htrs / 5 FPdtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 15 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 16: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1htr in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36htrs / 5 FPdtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 17 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.      

Rows 18-23 of the KCACOUKCAL chart

Row 24: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1htr in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr,  1htr in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPdtr around the post of the next FPdtr, 1htr in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 5 FPdtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

Row 25 of the KCACOUKCAL23 chart

Row 26: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1htr in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31htrs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1htr in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30htrs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1htr in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32htrs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1htr in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33htrs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1htr in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34htrs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1htr in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1htr in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1htr in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35htrs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1htr in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

Full crochet chart for 'The Tree' part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1htr in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3htr in the first row end, then [1htr in the first two row ends, 2htrs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3htr in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1htr in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1htr in 42sts, (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts  (1htr, ch3, 1htr)  in the next st, 1htr in the next 43sts,  (1htr, ch3, 2htr) in the next st, 1htr in the next 50sts,  (1htr, ch3, 1htr) in the next st, 1htr in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern in US Terms:

Part 1 of the KCACOUKCAL23; the central crochet motif of a tree is pictured lying on a tree trunk

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Front Post Treble (FPtr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
  • Front Post Treble two together (FPtr2tog): Yarn over hook (twice), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times, Yarn over 2 times, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch indicated, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook) 2 times. Yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook from front to back in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook together.
  • Right side (RS): This indicates the right side of your work
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets  until  specified
  • ( … ) Repeat section in curved brackets into one stitch or space

SPECIAL STITCH

  • Backwards Popcorn (BWPC): Work as a normal popcorn to begin (e.g. work 5 dc in indicated st) remove hook completely, insert hook from back to front in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), pull loop through first loop on hook to sl st             

PATTERN – PART 1

· The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a st;

· From row 5 each FPtr will be worked 2 rows below from the row you are currently working on,

· When you work a FPtr or FPtr2tog it will look as if you have missed a st when you look at it on the wrong side – you will not ever work in this st.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch42, 1hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each st across until the end, turn. 41sts


Rows 2 – 4: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 5 (RS): Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 12sts (from the beginning of the row) two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st , 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 7 sts two rows    below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 37hdcs / 4 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 5:            

Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 7: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 10sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below [1 FPtr around the post of the next st (on the next repeat work around the post of the next FPtr), 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below ] repeat once more, FPtr2tog over the next two FPtr two rows below, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3 sts two rows below,  1 FPtr around the post of the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 4 FPtr / FPtr2tog

See diagram help below for row 7:

Row 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in 12sts,  miss 12sts two rows  below [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more,  FPtr around the top of the FPtr2tog two rows             below, [1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, FPtr around the post of the next FPtr two rows below] repeat once more, 1hdc in the remaining 12sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 9:

Row 10: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts


Row 11: Ch1, 1hdc in 13sts, miss 12sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 3sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 13sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 11:

Row 12: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 13: Ch1, 1hdc in 14sts, miss 13sts two rows  below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below . [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 2sts two rows below ] repeat once more, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next 2sts on current row, miss 3sts two rows below, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in remaining 14sts, turn.  41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 13:

Row 14: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 15: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 14sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows  below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 2sts two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts /36hdcs / 5 FPtr

See diagram help below for row 15:

Row 16: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 17: Ch1, 1hdc in 16sts, miss 16sts (from the  beginning of the row) two rows below, [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the remaining 16sts, turn. 41sts / 36hdcs / 5 FPtr.

See diagram help below for row 17:

Row 18: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 19: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 20: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 21: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

Row 22: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 23: Repeat row 17, turn. 41sts

See diagram help below for rows 18 – 23.         

Row 24: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. 41sts

Row 25: Ch1, 1hdc in 7sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more [1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr,  1hdc in the next st on current row, miss 1st two rows below] repeat three more times, 1 FPtr around the post of the next FPtr, 1hdc in the next 2sts, [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat twice more ,1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 5 FPtr / 6PCs

See diagram help below for rows 25.         

See diagram help for row 25 on previous page.

Row 26: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 27: Ch1, 1hdc in next 6sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat eight times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 7sts, turn. 41sts / 31hdcs / 10 PCs

Row 28: Ch1, 1hdc in next 5sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat nine times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 5sts, turn. 41sts / 30hdcs / 11 BWPCs

Row 29: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 30: Repeat row 28, turn. 41sts

Row 31: Repeat row 27, turn. 41sts

Row 32: Ch1, 1hdc in next 8sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat seven times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 8sts, turn. 41sts / 32hdcs / 9 BWPCs

Row 33: Ch1, 1hdc in next 9sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat six times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 10sts, turn. 41sts / 33hdcs / 8 PCs

Row 34: Ch1, 1hdc in next 11sts [BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat five times more, BWPC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 11sts, turn. 41sts / 34hdcs / 7 BWPCs

Row 35: Ch1, 1hdc in next 12sts [PC in the next st, 1hdc in the next 2sts] repeat four times more, PC in the next st, 1hdc in the remaining 13sts, turn. 41sts / 35hdcs / 6 PCs

Rows 36 – 38: Ch1, 1hdc in each st across, turn. . 41sts

On the last row do not fasten off but continue onto the block border – you will end on the WS of your block, turn your block so you continue the border on the right side.

BORDER:

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch1, then work 1hdc in 41sts. turn your block and [work 3hdc in the first row end, then [1hdc in the first two rows ends, 2hdcs in the next row end] in the next 36 rows ends (48sts), work 3hdc in the last row end] , turn your block and work 1hdc in the next 41sts of your beginning foundation chain, turn your block again and working on the row ends repeat [ … ]  once more, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 41sts on each short side / 54 sts on each long side / 190sts in total

Rnd 2: Ch1, then work  1hdc in 42sts, (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc)  in the next st, 1hdc in the next 43sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 2hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the next 50sts,  (1hdc, ch3, 1hdc) in the next st, 1hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning hdc to join. 45sts on each short side / 53 sts on each long side / 196sts + 4 x 3ch-sps in total

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it! Part 1 completed! I hope you’ve enjoyed the start and I can’t wait to see your trees begin to grow!

The Schedule, Updates & Support:

As always if you need a reminder of the schedule then you can find the details on the CAL landing page (here) and you can keep up to date with the CAL details and get support if needed via the following links:

As I may have mentioned before the Facebook group is a lovely place of support, there are crocheters in there of all experiences, with new crocheters joining all the time! It’s likely that someone will be able to help you with any questions you might have though of course you can always contact me too here on the blog if you need any help.

The hashtag for this years CAL is #KCACOUKCAL23 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Thank you for crocheting along with me – the next eleven weeks are going to be so much fun!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

Wordpress-Signature.jpg

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affected. You can read more about my affiliate links here.