Doodle Zoo – No. 4: Ezra the Elephant (Free Pattern)

Posted in Amigurumi, Crochet, Doodle Zoo, Free Patterns, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

For all the elephant fans let me introduce Ezra! I can’t take credit for the fabulous name which came from my fabulous 11 year old nephew (thanks again Master T!).

Ezra is a great little stash buster using only 30g / 90 yards of blue yarn and some scraps of pink. All the Doodle Zoo animals are designed to work up in less than an hour and because they are just the right hand size they become very steal-able so be prepared to make a few! Ezra the Elephant would make a cute additional gift for family and friends or an quick addition to a craft stall.

This is an easy pattern suitable for beginners looking to learn some new crochet techniques. Click here to add this pattern to your favourites / queue on Ravelry or click here to access on Craftsy or scroll down for the pattern.

For details about the other Doodle Zoo characters; see my posts about Doodle Duck, Rowan Rabbit and Finlay Frog.

Don’t forget to look out for the next addition to the Doodle Zoo next month!

Ezra the Elephant

Yarn:

(8ply / yarn weight #3 or #4)

30g / 90 yards of blue (or alternative) double knit yarn
Scraps of pink yarn

Hook: 4mm (US size G)

You will also need:

Yarn needle
Stitch marker
2 x 9mm black safety eyes
Polyester toy stuffing

Gauge:

4 dc/sc = 1 inch / 2.5 cm

Size:

Finished elephant measures = 3 inches high / 8 cm high

These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
dc/sc2tog = UK double Crochet / US Single Crochet 2 sts together

Stitch Guidance:

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Half Double Treble / Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Treble / Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Double Crochet/Single Crochet 2 sts together (dc/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), Insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.

Pattern Guidance:

Working without joining:

All the parts of the elephant are worked without joining using a stitch marker to keep track of the rounds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of round.

Pattern:

Body:

Rnd 1: With blue yarn; either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or ch 2, crochet 6 dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6 sts).

Rnd 2: 2 dc/sc in each st around (12 sts).

Rnd 3: *1 dc/sc in next, 2 dc/sc in next st * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18 sts).

Rnd 4: * 1 dc/sc in next 2 sts, 2 dc/sc in next st, * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (24 sts).

Rnd 5: * 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 2 dc/sc in next st, * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (30 sts).

Rnd 6 – 12: 1 dc/sc in each st around (30 sts).

Add your safety eyes in between rows 7 and 8 about 1.25 inches/ 3.3cm apart.

Rnd 13: * 1 dc/sc in the next 3 sts, 1dc/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd, begin to stuff your elephant (24 sts).

Rnd 14: *1 dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 1dc/sc2tog

over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of the rnd (18 sts).

Rnd 15: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1dc/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of the rnd (12 sts).

Finish off stuffing the body

Rnd 16: *1dc/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of the rnd, cut thread leaving a long tail (6 sts).

Using your tail end and using your yarn needle sew the last 6 stitches, finish off and weave in ends.

Ear Outer (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With blue yarn, either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or ch 2, crochet 6 dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook (6 sts).

Rnd 2: 2 dc/sc in next 4 sts, sl st to the next st, turn, ch 1 (8 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 dc/sc in the next st, 2 dc/sc in the next st, repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the next st, turn, ch 1 (12 sts)

Rnd 4: 1 dc/sc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc/sc in the next st, repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the next st, turn, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (16 sts)

Ear Inners (Make 2):

With pink yarn repeat rnds 1-3 of the outer ears.
Sew together inner ear and outer ear parts and then attach to either side of your elephant.

Trunk:

Row 1: With blue yarn ch 6, 1 dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st along until end, turn (5 sts)

Row 2-5: Ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (5 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 dc/sc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing together and joining (10 sts)

Sew down the length of the trunk to make a tube shape.
Sew into place in-between the eyes (about rnd 9 – but position where happy with it); row 6 (the larger end) should be the end that is sewn onto the elephant’s face.

Legs (Make 4):

Rnd 1: With blue yarn; ch 6, 1 dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st along until end (5 sts), then working down the other side of your sts work 1 dc/sc until end (10sts).

Rnd 2 – 3: 1 dc/sc in each st around, sl st to the next st to join but leave a long tail for sewing. (10 sts).

Rnd 4: *1dc/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of the rnd, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing feet to the body (5 sts).

Sew the top of the legs together then sew two legs onto the front of Ezra and two onto the back of Ezra on rnd 13 (as photo below).

And that’s it! Simple, cute and addictive!

11Jan2015

Video Tutorial – Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl

Posted in Crochet, For Adult, Free Patterns, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Margaret's Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl

It makes me so happy that my Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl has been downloaded over 13,800 times since I first shared it in February last year. I really love the thought of all these shawls being made up and going to someone that could do with a hug.

However I have had a couple of requests for a video tutorial for this pattern so I’ve had a go to create one for you. Now it’s a bit shaky as it’s my first go at trying to do something like this but I hope it helps!

Don’t forget you can get your free copy of Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl here on the blog or over on Ravelry and Craftsy.

7Jan2015

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 1

Posted in Afghan Square, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Free Patterns, Hooking on a Hump Day, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Yay so it’s time for block 1!!! How exciting!!! AND it’s my first design for 2015 so super exciting!!! You can tell how excited I am by the abundance of exclamation marks!!!

Yes I thought that I would have a go at designing the first block for the CAL, I wanted it to be fun, yet simple to ease us into the CAL process. Believe it or not this was the first 12 inch square I have EVER made or designed and it was sooo enjoyable after designing many 6 inch ones. It seemed huge too but, I tell you what, it some how seemed so much more satisfying when I’d finished it. Hope you enjoying hooking it up too – I can’t wait to see what you come up with!!!

This square will be available as a free Ravelry download forever or scroll down the page to where I have also posted the pattern below.

Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on January 21st (or 22nd)

Moroccan Window 12″ Square by Heather C Gibbs

Notes:

Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours. For ease I have noted colour changes on each round referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D
Pattern uses UK and American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/
Specialist stitch: UK Front Post Double Crochet / US Front Post Single Crochet (FPSC) – see a good video tutorial here if you are not sure how to do this stitch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvdqqR2Kkho
You will also need: A Yarn Needle

Gauge: 7 tr/dc = 2 inches / 5 cm

Size: 12 inch x 12 inch / 30.5cm x 30.5cm

These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different. CHECK YOUR GAUGE, use any size hook to obtain gauge.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
fpdc/fpsc = UK Front Post double crochet / US Front Post single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble

Pattern:

(Updated 12/02/2015)

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or ch 3, (doesn’t count as a st), crochet 16 htr/hdc into the ring / 3rd ch from hook then sl st to top of 1st htr/hdc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends (16 sts).

Rnd 2: With a sl st attach YARN B to any st then ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), add a [tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the same st as your beginning ch 3, * ch 1, skip the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the next st * repeat from * to * twice, ch 1, skip the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, ch 1, then sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + (4x)ch 2 sps and (8x)ch 1 sps).

Rnd 3: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), add a [tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, work [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the next ch 2 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, sl st to top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends (44 sts + (4x)2ch sps).

Rnd 4: With a sl st attach YARN B to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc/sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (52 sts + (4 x)ch 2 sps).

Rnd 5: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 htr/hdc in the next 13 sts, [2 htr/hdc, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the next ch 2 corner], * repeat from * to * twice, 1 htr/hdc in the next 13 sts, sl st to top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends (68 sts + (4 x)ch 2 sps).

Rnd 6: With a sl st attach YARN C to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same sp * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, ** ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in next st ** repeat from ** to ** five times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, ch 1, skip next st, sl st to the top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends. (56 sts + 28 x ch 1 sps and 4 x ch 2 sps).

Rnd 7: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, ** 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next st ** repeat from ** to **five times, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, sl st to the top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends. (100 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 8: With a sl st attach YARN C to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, ** 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st ** repeat from ** to ** six times, 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, 1 dc/sc in the next 5 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp], 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc/sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (108 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 9: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the same ch 2 corner * miss next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 26 sts, [2 htr/hdc, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the next ch 2 corner], * repeat from * to * twice, miss next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 26 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 2 to join and weave in ends. (120 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 10: With a sl st attach YARN D to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/ dc in the next 4 sts, ** ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in next st ** repeat from ** to ** 10 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, next repeat ** to ** eleven times, 1 tr/dc in the remaining 3 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 3 to join and weave in ends. to join. (88 sts + (44x) ch 1 sps and (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 11: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/ dc in the next 6 sts, ** 1 dtr/tr in in the skipped st of rnd 10, 1 tr/dc in the next st ** repeat from ** to **10 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/ dc in the next sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, next repeat ** to ** 11 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 3 to join and weave in ends. to join. (148 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 12: With a sl st attach YARN D to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 9 sts, ** 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st ** repeat from ** to ** 10 times, 1 dc/sc in the next 8 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 dc/sc in the next 9 sts, next repeat ** to ** 10 times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining 8 sts, finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st dc/sc to join and weave in ends. (156 sts).

This square will need blocking to pull it into the 12 inch x 12 inch square;

Blocking afghan squares:

To steam block an afghan square pin the square evenly on a flat surface. Set your steam iron (or hand held steamer) on the lowest setting that will produce steam. Once you have a good steam going, hold the iron or steamer close to the crochet and work in a circular motion over the entire piece until every inch is evenly dampened. DO NOT touch the iron on the yarn! If you find that you must lightly press the square cover it with a cloth first to protect the yarn from the hot metal plate. Allow the pieces to dry thoroughly before unpinning.

20Jul2014

Free Pattern – Teeny Tiny Dachshund Amigurumi

Posted in Amigurumi, Free Patterns, Pattern Release by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

I love making amigurumi’s! I can’t resist crocheted critters or other cute characters and neither can my daughter! And I certainly don’t mind making them for her as she loves her crocheted toys that Mummy made better than some of her shop bought ones. So when she started a make believe game the other day with some ‘teeny tiny’ puppies I decided to make her one.

The perfect size for little hands or a cute little ami for grown ups you can now make a teeny tiny dachshund of your very own! You can download the pattern from Ravelry or Craftsy to save for later or continue down to the pattern below.

01+Logo

AND if you help circulate my FREE Teeny Tiny Daschund Amigurumi pattern you’ll get a chance to win a free pattern from me! Here’s how:

Add this pattern to your “favourites” on Ravelry (just click the “add to favourites” heart button on the top right hand side of this listing)
Share this pattern on pinterest, Facebook, Twitter or Google+ (just click any of the share buttons below this post)
Comment on this blog post to let me know you’ve done 1 & 2 above, and I’ll pick a random winner to get 1 free pattern of choice on 26 July! Thank you!

Yarn:

(8ply / yarn weight #3 or #4)
5g of double knit yarn
Black thread

Hook:

3.5 mm or 4mm hook (US size E or G)

You will also need:

Yarn needle
Stitch marker
2 x 6 mm black safety eyes (optional)
Small amount of toy filling
Small piece of felt (optional)

Gauge:

4 dc/sc = 1 inch / 2.5 cm

These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
inv.dc2tog/sc2tog = Invisible UK double crochet 2 sts together / Invisible US single crochet 2 sts together

Pattern:

Working without joining: Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of round.

Body:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).

Rnd 2: 1 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in same st then 2 dc/sc in each st around until you reach the st mrkr (12 sts).

Rnd 3: 1 dc/sc in next st, * 2 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in next * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18 sts).

Rnds 4 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around (18 sts).

Rnd 7: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (12 sts).

Rnds 8 – 12: 1 dc/sc in each st around (12 sts).

Lightly stuff the body

Rnd 13: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (6 sts).

Rnd 14: *1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (3 sts).

Rnd 15: With the tail end and using your yarn needle sew the last 3 stitches together, finish off and weave in ends.

Head:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).

Rnd 2: 1 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in same st then 2 dc/sc in each st around until you reach the st mrkr (12 sts).

Rnd 3: 1 dc/sc in next st, * 2 dc/sc in next st, 1 dc/sc in next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the rnd (18 sts).

Rnds 4 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around (18 sts).

Add safety eyes between rows 3-4 or work two french knots with black yarn/thread.

Rnd 7: *1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd (12 sts).

Lightly stuff the head.

Rnd 8: *1 inv.dc2tog/sc2tog over next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end of rnd, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (6 sts).

Muzzle:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 6 dc/sc in beginning ch (6 sts).

Rnds 2 – 3: 1 dc/sc in each st around, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (6 sts).

With black thread sew a nose onto the end of the muzzle, add a small black line under the nose to represent a mouth

Stuff muzzle lightly and then sew muzzle onto the head

Ears (Make 2):

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 5 dc/sc in beginning ch (5 sts).

Rnds 2 – 6: 1 dc/sc in each st around, sl st to top of the next dc/sc to join cut thread leaving a long tail (5 sts).

Sew ears to each side of the head; you can tack the bottom of the ears to the neck if you wish them to lie flat.
With the tail end of your head sew the head to the larger end of your body.

Back Legs (Make 2):

The legs are worked in rows rather than in the round.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4 st, turn (5)

Row 2: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)

Fold the leg in half and sew evenly together taking care not to sew to tightly or the legs will curl.
Sew your legs evenly onto the back end of the body of your dog for balance and so it appears he is sitting down.

Front Legs (Make 2):

The legs are worked in rows rather than in the round.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 5 st, turn (5)

Row 2-3: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)

Roll the leg up so it’s all together then sew together to form a tube.
Sew your legs onto the front end of the body of your dog for balance and so it appears he is sitting down.

Tail:

The tail is worked in rows rather than in the round.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4 st, turn (5)

Row 2: Ch 1, dc/sc in same st as beginning 1 ch and in each st along until end, finish off but leave a long tail for sewing (5)

Fold the tail in half and sew evenly together and more tightly than the legs to create that curved tail
Sew the tail onto the back end of your dogs body.

Optional:

Using a small piece of felt cut a small strip for a collar and sew onto the neck of your daschund.

27Apr2014

Free Pattern – Mini Filet Cross Afghan Square

Posted in Afghan Square, Afghan Square Challenge 2014, Free Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

I love filet crochet and one of the first things I ever crocheted as an adult was a filet crochet bunny blanket for Little G when I was pregnant with her. In fact one of my first crochet designs, the bordered heart baby blanket, was also filet crochet. But ‘filet’ seems to be something that people are a little scared of or think of it specifically made with teeny tiny hooks (eek!) and proper crochet thread (yikes!).

So for my own challenge of designing a new afghan square each month in 2014 I thought I would design something filet-ish. The ‘Mini Filet Cross Afghan Square’ is a cute little square which incorporates an element of simple ‘filet’ crochet that would look great in a multi-square afghan or worked up in different colours sewn together as a blanket – the possibilities are endless!

You can download the pattern from Ravelry or Craftsy to save for later or continue down to the pattern below:

Yarn:

5g of any double knit yarn; 8ply / yarn weight #3 or #4
The square can be worked in either single colours of using up scraps of different colours

Hook: 4 mm (US size G)

You will also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:

4 tr/dc sts = 1 inch / 2.5 cm
5.5 x 5.5 inches / 14 x 14 cm

These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) and work 15 tr/dc into ring, sl st to the top of beginning 3 ch to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc into same st, ch 3, 2 tr/dc into same st, * ch 1, miss 1 st, 1 tr/dc into next st, ch 1 miss st, 2 tr/dc into next st, ch 3, 2 tr/dc into same st * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (40 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc into the next st, * [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the 3 ch sp, 1 tr/dc into the top of the next 2 sts, ch 1, miss st, 1 tr/dc into next st, ch 1, miss st, 1 tr/dc into the top of the next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (56 sts) – if changing to a different colour finish off and weave in ends.

Rnd 4: If using new yarn attach to any 3 ch sp / or ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc into same st, ch 3, 2 tr/dc into same ch sp, 1 tr/dc in each of the next 11 sts, * [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 1 tr/dc in each of the next 11 sts, * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (72 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc into next st, *[1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 1 tr/dc in each of the next 15 sts, * repeat from * to * until last row 1 tr/dc into remaining 13 st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (80 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1 (counts as first dc/sc), 1 dc/sc into next 2 sts, * 3 dc/sc in the 3 ch sp, 1 dc/sc in each of the next 17 sts, * repeat from * to * until last row 1 dc/sc into remaining 15 st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 1 to join, finish with an invisible join and weave in ends (80 sts)

3Feb2014

Free Pattern – ‘Margaret’s Hug’ Healing/Prayer Shawl

Posted in Crochet, Free Patterns, Patterns by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

My mother-in-law is a fabulous person who welcomed me with open arms into her family when I met my husband a little over ten years ago. Three years she ago battled with tonsil cancer so we were all devastated to learn at Christmas that the cancer had come back. In early January she had her kidney, spleen and some of her lymph nodes removed in a 7 hour operation. As we couldn’t be with her I decided to make her a prayer/healing shawl and crochet some love and healing thoughts into every stitch. My mum and even my non-crochet husband added stitches and love to go with mine and the result was ‘Margaret’s Hug’…

Margaret’s Hug Prayer / Healing Shawl

This shawl is a free pattern so others can make a hug for someone in need; however if you would like to pass on the couple of pounds/dollars you would have paid for this pattern to Cancer Research then that would make you even more awesome! And here are some great links on Lion Brand about prayer shawls with some sample messages to send with your shawl. The pattern details are below but if you want to download a copy you can on either Ravelry or Craftsy. I would love to see your finished items so please link your project on Ravelry or Craftsy or drop me a photo either by email or Facebook.

PATTERN:

Note: This pattern is worked by holding two strands of yarn together.

You will need:

600g of double knit yarn (8ply / yarn weight #3)
Crochet hook: 7mm (US size L)
A yarn needle

Gauge: 3 tr/dc (measured at the top) = 2.5cm /1 inch / 1 row = 2.5 cm / 1 inch. Neck edge point to point = 70 inches / 1.8 m. These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different. CHECK YOUR GAUGE, use any size hook to obtain gauge.

Stitch abbreviations:

st(s) = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet

Notes:

This pattern is worked from the neck downwards and is worked in alternate rows of clusters (3 tr/dc) and V stitch (1 tr/dc, ch1, 1 tr/dc) with a shell cluster to start each row (4 tr/dc)
The chain 3 between clusters / V-stitches on the point of the shawl counts as sts in this pattern.
Stitches are worked in-between shell clusters/V-stitches/clusters and not in the ch spaces of the V-stitch row (see photo below)

Example of stitch pattern

Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as first st) 3 tr/dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 3, 4 tr/dc in same ch, turn (11 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first st), 3 tr/dc in same st as ch 3, then in next ch 3 sp work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] miss 3 sts and in last ch work 4 tr/dc, turn (17 sts)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first st), 3 tr/dc in same st as ch 3 then * 3 tr/dc in the next sp between sts of the previous row * repeat from * to * to corner where in the ch sp you need to work [3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc]. Repeat * to * again to final the st; work 4 tr/dc into final st, turn (23 sts)

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first st), 3 tr/dc in same st as ch 3 then * [1 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr/dc] in the next sp between sts of the previous row * repeat from * to * to corner where in the ch sp you need to work [1 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr/dc, ch, 3, 1 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr/dc]. Repeat * to * again to final the st; work 4 tr/dc into final st, turn (29 sts)

Rows 5 – 40: repeat alternate rows of rows 3 and 4, turn. Note: Each row increases by 6 sts (245 sts)

Edging:

Work along each edge of your shawl EXCEPT the neck edge in picot st.

Row 1: * Ch 2, 1 dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook (at the base of ch 2), dc/sc into next 2 sts * repeat from * to * until end, finish off and weave in ends.