Stitch Story Crochet Along | Joining and Edging


SSCAL18-The-End

Nearing the end of a CAL is a bit like the end of a journey, many things will have happened since we started, and you will have undoubtedly woven some of your own stories and memories into your blanket. I hope you have enjoyed crocheting along with me, and I can’t wait to see your finished blankets.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able. You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to the joining is available here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to to her video is below:

Stitch-Story-Part13-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Joining your blocks together

First you will need to work out how you want your finished blanket to look. The schematics that I used and my mum used for her blanket are below if you’d like to use those. You may find that playing with your squares on the floor and / or working out the layout of the blocks on a piece of paper helps enormously with working out your finished design. 

Then to join each block together you can either sew them using a whipstitch or crochet them together using a sl st through the back loop of each st. I used the crochet method but I’ve put the details for crochet and whip-stitching the blocks together below. You could use another method for joining but you will need to make adjustments for the border.

Top tips for joining:

  1. When possible you want to match the stitches one-for-one; when sewing the ends of rows / corners of blocks together you’ll need to look at the spaces for where to join and strive for consistency.
  2. When the edges you’re seaming together are long, I’d advise using knit clips or stitch markers to hold the edges together so you can keep your work even.
  3. Join your blocks in long strips where possible to keep the seams as neat as possible.

Whip-stitch:

  1. Firstly put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, when sewing the squares together, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. With your sewing yarn in the needle insert the needle into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin stitching pulling the yarn through the loops and making sure to pull the entire length all the way through. Leave a tail of yarn about six inches long hanging from the end. Later, when you are finished whip stitching the squares together, you can to weave this end into the back of the closest block.
  3. Insert the needle into the (back loop) of the next pair of stitches from bottom to top (or top to bottom which ever you find easiest for you) and pull gently to tighten
  4. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Slip stitch join:

  1. Put your two squares together with the wrong sides facing, you will need to work under the BACK LOOPS (on the outside) only. Working in the BLO means there will be a less bulky seam.
  2. Insert your hook into the middle stitch (of your 3 dc/sc in each corner) of both blocks and begin slip stitching across the blocks, do not pull your sl sts too tightly as the seam will then bunch together.
  3. Repeat across your blocks, weave in ends and finish off the yarn.

Post Stitch Rib Border

I thought that a post stitch rib border using front posts and back posts would be a perfect edging to tie everything in the blanket together. Post stitch ribbing produces a chunky border but do not crochet too tightly as you do not want the edge to become stiff and inflexible. Using a larger crochet hook might get you a softer, more flexible feel – see what works best for you.

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining my yarn to a corner st (of a 3dc/sc corner) and worked 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

Note: If you have ended up with too many stitches for any reason this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed.  I worked a tr3tog/dc3tog on each square seam (see photo on right) and in each the corner I worked 3 tr/dc (1012 sts).

Joining

Rnd 2: Ch2 (this counts as the first post st), * 1fptr/fpdc around the post of the next st, 1 bptr/bpdc around the next st * repeat from * to * working 3 tr/dc in each corner (see photo below) until the last st, sl st to join

Corner

Rnd 3: Repeat row 1, fasten off and weave in ends

Schematics

Heather-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

Jacki-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

If you made a smaller blanket with less blocks then you may find Esther’s blanket schematic useful…

Esthers-Final-Blanket-Layout-SSCAL18

And that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed creating your very own unique blanket!

Irish-Blessing

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 12 – The Bee Keeper


SSCAL18-Block12-Blog

Well ladies and gents it’s time for the final block of the Stitch Story blanket! Then it’s just the joining and edging to go and we are done for this year’s crochet-along, and you will have a fabulous blanket all ready to use or gift at Christmas! 

This next block is one of my favourites and was actually going to be the first block in the CAL as it utilises only very easy stitches, however it got moved to the end because it is one of those patterns that you have to concentrate on to get right, but I have included some helpful tips from my testers below.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL don’t worry the details will remain on the blog here pretty much forever so you can make your own blanket when you are able.

You can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. More photos and the specifications and charts for the CAL can be found on the CAL Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet has been released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I have provided you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation was available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 12 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 12 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part12-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Honeycomb: The symbol of a hard worker bee. It’s a lucky stitch signifying hard work and sweet rewards!

Design 12: The Bee Keeper

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Working in the Back Loop Only: If you hold your piece of crochet in front of you with the Vs of the stitch on top, the part of the V closest to you is the front loop. The part of the V farther away from you on the opposite side is the back loop. When a pattern asks you to crochet into the back loop, insert your hook into the relevant loop and crochet as instructed.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block12SML-SSCAL

Note: The ch1 at the beginning of a row, count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 26, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and, sl st in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (25 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2 (RS) : Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, 1htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, 1htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 6-25: Repeat rows 2-5,  at the end of row 25 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12SML-SSCAL-CHART

The pattern does not use difficult stitches but it can be tricky to keep a tab on the rows so you know which row you are on.  One of my testers made this very handy chart (below) which you might find helpful:

Block-12-Row-Help

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

BlBlock12_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The ch2, at the beginning of a row,  count as a st

Tip 1: If you struggle with twisting the row 1 try adding a row of dc/sc as row 1, then work row 1 as row 2 and so on (as seen in photo).

Tip 2: You might also find using stitch markers (or alternatives) to mark each row or where your last sl st, of each set of 5, helpful for this block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4sts * htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, sl st in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn (50 sts)

Note: From this point onwards work rows in the back loops only.

Row 2: (RS): Ch1, * Sl st in the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to *   until the end of the row, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 sts, * sl st in 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 4: Ch1, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc, * sl st in 5 sts, htr/hdc in 5 htr/hdc * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Row 5:  Ch1, * Sl st in the top of the 5 htr/hdc, htr/hdc in next 5 sl sts, * repeat from * to * until the end of the row, turn.

Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. 

Row 6-49: Repeat rows 2-5, at the end of row 49 finish off and weave in ends.

Block12LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 11 – Six Stitch Braid


SSCAL-Block11

Well we find ourselves at the penultimate block of the Stitch Story CAL Block 11! Don’t let this block intimidate you! It might look a little scary but it’s only made up from three stitches and it’s not so bad once you get into the rhythm of it.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 10 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 11 is available via the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part11-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Six Stitched Braid: representing the strands of life. The strands when twisted together with others are part of a complex whole.

Design 11: Six Stitched Braid

Hook: 4mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Front Post Double Treble / US Front Post Treble Crochet (FPdtr/FPtr)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Double Treble / US Front Post Treble (FPdtr/FPtr): Yarn over twice and insert your hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch of the row below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st  that you’re working around), yarn over pull through two loops (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over pull through  remaining two loops left on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block11SML-SSCAL

Row 1: (WS) Ch26, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (25sts)

Row 2-5: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 6: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * miss 2 htr/hdc (of row 5), 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of the next 2 sts (of row   

5 – these are stitches 1 and 2) then working IN FRONT of the FPdtr/FPtr just made work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in each of the sts missed (stitches 3 and 4), then work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next 2 sts (after the first 2 FPdtr/FPtr made—stitches 5 and 6) * These 6 FPdtr/FPtr mark the beginning of a six stranded braid. 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 4 sts, turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of the FPdtr/FPtr on stitches 1 and 2 (of row 6),  miss stitches  3 and 4 of row 6, 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of stitches 5 and 6 (of row 6), then working BEHIND the sts just made, work 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 6), * 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the            remaining 4 sts, turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 10: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, * miss the FPdtr/FPtr sts 1 and 2 of row 8, 1 FPdtr/FPtr around the posts of 3 and 4 (of row 8),  then working IN FRONT of the FPdtr/FPtr just made work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in 1 and 2, then work 1 FPdtr/FPtr in 5 and 6 (after the first 2 FPdtr/FPtr made), 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *  then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 4 sts.

Row 11: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 12: repeat row 8 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 10)

Row 13: repeat row 9

Row 14: repeat row 10 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 12)

Row 15: repeat row 9

Row 16: repeat row 8 (working FPdtr/FPtr on row 14)

Row 17-21: repeat row 9, at the end of row 20 finish off and weave in ends.

Block11SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 3.75 mm / US size F or size needed to obtain either square 

Block11_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st

Row 1: (WS) Ch51, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (50sts)

Row 2-3: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 4: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * miss 2 htr/hdc (of row 2), 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the next 2 sts (of row 2—theses are stitches 1 and 2) then working IN FRONT of the fpdtr/fptr just made work 1 fpdtr/fptr in each of the sts missed (stitches 3 and 4), then work 1 fpdtr/fptr in the next 2 sts (after the first 2 fpdtr/fptr made—stitches 5 and 6) 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts * repeat from * to * three times, 1 htr/hdc in the last 7sts, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the stitches 1 and 2 (of row 4),  miss the next 2 fpdtr/fptr, 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of the stitches 5 and 6 (of row 4), then working BEHIND the sts just made, work 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 4), * 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts repeat from * to *  three times, then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 7 sts, turn.

Row 7: Repeat row 5

Row 8: (RS) Ch 1, 1 htr/hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in the next 6 sts, * miss 2 fpdtr/fptr, 1 fpdtr/fptr around the posts of stitches 3 and 4 (of row 6),  then working IN FRONT of the fpdtr/fptr just made work 1 fpdtr/fptr in stitches 1 and 2, then work 1 fpdtr/fptr in stitches 5 and 6 (after the first 2 fpdtr/fptr made), 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, repeat from * to *  three times, then work 1 htr/hdc in the remaining 7 sts, turn

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below current row)

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 13: Repeat row 5

Row 14: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 15: Repeat row 5

Row 16: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 17: Repeat row 5

Row 18: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 19: Repeat row 5

Row 20: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Row 22: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 23: Repeat row 5

Row 24: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 25: Repeat row 5

Row 26: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 27: Repeat row 5

Row 28: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 29: Repeat row 5

Row 30: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 31: Repeat row 5

Row 32: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Row 33: Repeat row 5

Row 34: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 35: Repeat row 5

Row 36: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Note: Measure as you go, if getting closer to size end on row 37 finish off and weave in ends.

Row 37: Repeat row 5

Row 38: Repeat row 6 (working two rows below)

Row 39: Repeat row 5

Row 40: Repeat row 8 (working two rows below)

Rows 41-43: Repeat row 5; at the end of row 43 finish off and weave in ends.

Block11LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 10 – Cabled Ropes


SSCAL-Block10

Stitch Story CAL Block 10 is a fun block featuring a simple cabled design which gives it a lovely texture – and after this block, it’s just 2 to go!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 10 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 10 is available from the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part10-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Cabled ropes: a tribute to the fisherman’s daily life,   representing the fisherman’s ropes and symbolising a safe and fruitful days work.

Design 10: Cabled Ropes

Hook: 4mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc)
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc)
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc)

Note: The 15cm / 6 inch pattern does differ from the 30cm/12 inch block

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (fptr/fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (bptr/bpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block10SML-SSCAL

Row 1: (WS) Ch27, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, turn (25sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as htr/hdc now and throughout), 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, skip 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then IN FRONT of the FPtr/FPdc just made work 1FPtr/FPdc in each of the skipped sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, skip the next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then IN FRONT of the FPtr/FPdc just made work 1FPtr/FPdc in each of the skipped sts, 1htr/hdc in the last 4 sts, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, * 1BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts (around the FPtr/FPdc of row 2), 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 3 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next 2 sts, 1BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, 1htr/hdc in the last 4 sts, turn.

Row 4-17: repeat row 2 & 3 for pattern until the last row.

Row 18: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end,  finish off and weave in ends.

Block10SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 3.75 mm / US size F or size needed to obtain either square 

Block10_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The 30cm/12 inch pattern does differ from the 15cm / 6 inch block.

Row 1: (WS) Ch 52, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, (50sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as htr/hdc now and throughout the pattern), 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, *skip next 2sts, 1 FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, then working in front of the FPtr/FPdc sts you have just made, work 1 FPtr/FPdc in the skipped 2 sts, 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until end, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, 1 htr/hdc in the next 4 sts, *1 BPtr/BPdc around the next 4 sts, 1 htr/hdc in the next 5 sts * repeat from * to * until the end, turn.

Note: Measure as you go; end on a row 3 repeat (final row is row 37).

Row 4-36: Repeat rows 2-3 for pattern, turn

Row 37: Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block10LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 9 – Fisherman’s Basket


SSCAL-Block9

Okay! Who stole the last two weeks? That seems to have zoomed by! Are you ready for block 9 of the Stitch Story Crochet Along?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 9 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 9 is available at the link below:

Stitch-Story-Part9-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

The variation of the basket weave stitch depicts a fisherman’s basket and represents the hope of a good day.           

Design 9: Fisherman’s Basket

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc)
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc)
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc)

Note: The 15cm / 6 inch pattern does differ from the 30cm/12 inch block

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (fptr/fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Back Post Treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (bptr/bpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block9-01-SML-SSCAL18

Row 1: (RS) Ch27, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch along until end, turn. (25sts).

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as 1st htr/hdc now and throughout), FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 3 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 2 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, htr/hdc in the last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch2, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 2 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 3 sts, , BPtr/BPdc in the next 2 sts, FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc in the next 4 sts, htr/hdc in the last st, turn.

Rows 4-5: Repeat row 2

Row 6: Repeat row 3

Rows 7-8: Repeat row 2

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10-11: Repeat row 2

Rows 12: Repeat row 3

Rows 13-14: Repeat row 2

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Rows 16-17: Repeat row 2

Row 18: Ch1, 1htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch1 and each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block9SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4.5mm / US size 7 or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square

Block9_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: The 30cm/12 inch pattern does differ from the 15cm / 6 inch block.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 52, 1tr/dc in the 4th ch from hook (counts as first tr/dc), 1tr/dc in each ch across until end, turn (50 sts)

Note:  Measure the first row; you want your block to measure 12 inch x 12 inch / 30.5cm x 30.5cm (or your own desired size depending on your first row measurements). 

Row 2-4: Ch3 (counts as 1 tr/dc), *FPtr/FPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts, BPtr/BPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts * repeat from * to * in each st along until the beginning ch3, 1tr/dc in the top of turning ch, turn.

Row 5-7: Ch3 (counts as 1tr/dc), * BPtr/BPdc around the post of next 4 sts, FPtr/FPdc around the post of each of next 4 sts * repeat from * to * in each st along until the beginning ch3, 1tr/dc in the top of turning ch, turn.

Row 8-37: Repeat rows 2-7 for pattern.

Block9LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 8 – Garden Trellis


SSCAL-Block8

It’s time for block 8 of the Stitch Story Crochet Along and this fun pattern and simple repeated pattern makes a great textured square.

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry). Link to Part 8 here.
  • For support with the Stitch Story CAL on  Ravelry there is a thread facilitated by Reimy.
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 8 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part8-Video-Link

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

The Trellis Stitch represents the shape of stone walled gardens of Irish farmsteads and symbolises protection.

Design 8: Garden Trellis

Hook: 4 mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc)
  • UK Front Post treble / US Front Post double crochet (FPtr/FPdc)
  • RS = Right Side

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post Treble / US Front Post Double Crochet (fptr/fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block8SML-SSCAL

Row 1: Ch27, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook and in each st along, turn. (25sts).

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as first tr/dc now and throughout) * 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until the last st, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch3, * 1tr/dc in the next 3 sts, 1 FPtr/FPdc in the next * repeat from * to * until the last st, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn.

Note: Measure your block when on row 12 as if you are nearly at 15cm / 6” you can omit rows 13-14 and go straight to row 15.

Row 4-14: repeat row 2 & 3 for pattern

Row 15: repeat row 2

Row 16:  Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block8SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Hook: 4mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 30cm/12” square 

Block8_LRG-SSCAL18

Row 1: Ch 52, 1tr/dc in 4th ch from the hook and in each st along, turn. (50sts).

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as first tr/dc now and throughout) * 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until the last 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in the next 3sts, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3 sts, *1 FPtr/FPdc around each of the tr/dc of the previous row, 1tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * repeat from * to * until the last st, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn.

Note: Measure your block when on row 28 as if you are nearly at 30cm / 12” you can omit rows 29-30 and go straight to row 31.

Row 4-30: repeat row 2 & 3 for pattern

Row 31: repeat row 2

Row 32:  Ch2, 1htr/hdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block8LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Rascal the Raccoon


Rascal-Collage

So you already for the free pattern I mentioned yesterday? Rascal the Raccoon is a fun loving curious little fellow that occasionally get’s into mischief! From sneaking through the forest to exploring your shelves he’s always looking for new places to investigate.

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available on Ravelry where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 6 page PDF pattern free of advertisements.

Rascal-the-Raccoon+Text

I used Marriners DK Cotton for this pattern, if you’d like to learn more about that yarn then you can more  read my yarn review here or just scroll straight down to the pattern below.

Rascal the Raccoon Amigurumi

Materials:

Yarn:

Marriner Mercerised DK Cotton (100g / 201m) used in photos :

  • 1 x 65g (130m) Cyclamen
  • 1 x 5g (10m) Violet
  • 1 x 5g (10m) White

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3mm (US size 5/0)

You will also need:

  • Stitch markers
  • A yarn needle
  • Polyester toy filler
  • 2 x 6mm black safety eyes
  • 1 x black cat nose

Gauge: 4dc/sc = 2.5cm (1inch). Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this project.

Finished Size:

  • 18cm high (7inches) x 20cm (8inches) from feet to tail

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)        
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc/sc2tog = UK double crochet 2 together / US double crochet 2 together
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble crochet / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble crochet / US double crochet
  • P = Picot Stitch
  • BLO = working through the back loop only
  • ( ) = Work any sts in brackets into one st

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
  • Invisible UK Double Crochet 2 together / US Double Crochet 2 together (dc/sc2tog): Insert hook in the front loops only of the sts indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in the front loop of the next st, draw up a loop (three loops on hook) draw through all loops on hook.
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Picot (P): Ch-3, insert hook back into the center of the base st you’ve just worked, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
  • Back loop only (BLO): Insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop of your stitch then continue as indicated in your pattern.

Pattern Notes:

Using a stitch marker: Most of the sections of this pattern are worked without joining in   continuous rnds. Place the stitch marker in the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Pattern:

Head:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 7: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 9: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 10: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 13: * 1dc/sc in the next 19sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (40sts).

Rnd 14: * 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (38sts).

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in the next 17sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc in the next 3sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 19: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for sewing onto the body. (12sts).

Eye Patches (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) OR ch-4 then sl st to join to form a ring to start. Work 6dc/sc into the ring, do not tighten middle ring as you will later thread the stalk of your safety eye through the centre of this ring (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off white. (12sts).

Rnd 3: Attach Violet with a sl st to BLO of any st; * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st, 1htr/hdc in the next st,  2dc/sc in the last st (18sts).

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, 2dc/sc in next st rep from * to * four times, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2tr/dc in the next, P, 1htr/hdc in the next 2sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st, but leave a long yarn tail to attach eye patches to the head (24sts).

Eye Stripe: 

Row 1: With Violet ch7; sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 3sts. Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts)

Ears (Make 2):

Ears should not be stuffed.

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 3dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (3sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (9sts).

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the head. (6sts).

Nose:

Rnd 1: With White either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts).

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts).

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 4: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Add safety nose to the middle of rnd 1, stuff nose.

Body:

Rnds 1-6: With Cyclamen work as as head (36sts).

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (48sts).

Rnds 9-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 12: * 1dc/sc in next six sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (42sts).

Rnds 13-14: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 15: * 1dc/sc in next five sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (36sts).

Rnds 16-17: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 18: * 1dc/sc in next four sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (30sts).

Rnds 19-20: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 21: * 1dc/sc in next three sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (24sts).

Rnd 22: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 23: * 1dc/sc in next two sts, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Start to stuff; then continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 24: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 25: * dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (6sts).

Fasten off and sew up the remaining six stitches

Neatly dc/sc around whole outer edge of the  tummy patch.

Fasten off with a sl st to the first st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Feet and Legs (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: * 2dc/sc in each st * rep from * to *  until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts)

Rnds 4-5: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 6: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts)

Rnds 7-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body.

Stuff legs

Tail:

Rnd 1: With Cyclamen either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or 2ch, work 6dc/sc into the ring / 2nd ch from hook, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (6sts)

Rnd 2: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd.

Rnd 3: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (8sts)

Rnd 4: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (10sts)

Rnd 5: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (12sts)

Rnds 6: * 1dc/sc in two sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (16sts)

Rnd 7: * 1dc/sc in three sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. (20sts)

Rnd 8: * 1dc/sc in four sts, 2dc/sc in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd. On the last rnd fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends  (24sts).

Rnd 9: Attach Violet to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 10-11: 1dc/sc in each st until the end of the rnd. Fasten off with as sl st to the next st and weave in ends.

Rnds 12-14: With Cyclamen repeat rnds 9-11

Rnd 15: With Violet repeat rnd 9

Rnd 16: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (18sts).

Rnd 17: * 1dc/sc, dc/sc2tog in next st * rep from * to * until the end of the rnd (12sts).

Rnd 18: Attach Cyclamen to the top of any st, 1dc/sc in each st around until end.

Rnds 19-21: 1dc/sc in each st around until end. On the last rnd fasten off with a sl st to the next st but leave a long yarn tail for attaching to the body. Stuff tail.

Making up:

  • Pin eye patches into place on head starting on rnd 7. Eye patches should be touching each other.
  • Push the safety eyes through the middle of the eye patches and the head and secure.
  • Sew eye patches into place
  • Sew centre head stripe into place next to eye patches
  • Attach nose to head just below eyes
  • Attach ears to either side of head on rnds 4-6 at least 6 sts apart
  • Attach tummy panel to front of body
  • Attach head to top of body
  • Attach arms on either side of the body
  • Attach legs to the front of the body on rnds 11-15 at least 6sts apart
  • Pin tail to back of raccoon to check balance, then sew into place.

If you like this pattern and you are on Ravelry I’d really appreciate a “favourite” (just click the pink heart button on the top right hand side of the listing). 

And if you hook up Rascal the Raccoon please share your photos with me on social media (facebooktwitter or instagram) – I love to see what you make! 

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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