So we are now up to week 10 on theNuts About Squares CAL and I’m delighted that my Moroccan Window block (originally designed for my 2015 CAL) has been featured alongside ‘Sweet and Fair‘ by the wonderfully talented designer Julie Yeager (I love her block designs!).
Don’t worry if this is the first time you are hearing about the CAL you can find all the information about itHEREon the It’s All in A Nutshell website.
Once again the very talented Esther has created an accompanying step-by-step video showing how to crochet my square.
And once again I’m in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…
And the Moroccan Window block has now also been translated into Dutch too! The update for this translation is now available in myRavelry store.
I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using#NutsAboutSquaresand#kcacouk#moroccanwindowtoo – can’t wait to see your projects.
Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
You may remember me telling you about the Nuts About Squares CAL which started on 31 March. Don’t worry though if you missed it there’s still plenty of time to catch up – the Information Post for the CAL can be found HERE.
I’m very excited to announce that my Bavarian Beauty Block is Part 6 of the CAL. You may remember I designed this pattern for my 2015 CAL. I did add some photo tutorials to the pattern originally, to help make up the block, but Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell has now also created a fabulous instructional video (in US terms) to accompany the block.
Along with the video for my block you can find a playlist of all the video tutorials for the CAL as they are releasedHERE.
I’m just in LOVE with how the block looks in different Earth, Sea and Sky colourways! Esther and her helpers have done such beautiful work…
I’m also very excited that I have now been translated into Dutch for the first time (Goedenavond alle Nederlandse haaksters!), the update for this translation is now available in my Ravelry store.
I hope those of you that are making the block for the first time enjoy this square as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you are joining in with the CAL please share your squares on social media using #NutsAboutSquares and #kcacouk#bavarianbeauty too – can’t wait to see your projects.
Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Oooo you know me! I’m a sucker for a good blanket and there is nothing like a crochet-along for being able to make something bigger than perhaps you would usually make for you or someone special. That’s why I’m really excited to tell you about the new crochet-along, Nuts about Squares, by Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell to make the beautiful afghan (pictured below).
If you are not familiar with It’s All in A Nutshell you NEED to go and check out her blog and her Youtube channel. Not only does she have many free patterns of her own (available in English and Dutch) but she has also has made several videos,with permission, of well known crochet-along patterns like Sophie’s Universe by Dedri Uys or Mandala Madness by Helen Shrimpton.
For this crochet-along Esther has collaborated with Scheepjes Yarn to create three stunning colourway packs, with the theme of either Earth, Sea and Sky, which are available from Wool Warehouse, Deramores and Caro’s Atelier (NL).
The CAL will last 15 weeks and starts March 31, 2017 so make sure you hop on over and subscribe to the It’s All in a Nutshell blog so you don’t miss any of the details.
Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx
Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Pattern:
Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)
And that’s it! Part 16 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew
It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!
I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!
Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.
Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details)
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B
Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.
And that’s it! Part 15 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.
It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet
Stitch Guidance:
Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)
Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.
Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Finishing:Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.
Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)
Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.
Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)
Finishing:Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.
And that’s it! Part 14 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.
It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp= space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
PC= Popcorn
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)
And that’s it! Part 13 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.
For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun. You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart clickhere.
Abbreviations:
st(s)= stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern Guidance:
Surface crochet: Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.
Pattern:
I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Joining:
Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.
Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;
line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.
Photo Tutorial:
Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,
ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).
Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.
And that’s it! Part 11 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.
Time for part 9! Have you got your hooks at the ready!?
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
Edited to add: This page has now been translated into Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Wish-Upon-A-Star
Part 9: Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block
This weeks CAL block is brought to you with the dulcet tones of Louis Armstrong singing ‘Wish Upon a Star’ (recorded 1968). I just LOVE his smooth and velvety voice! Makes me want to be sitting in a comfy chair, drinking tea with a hook and yarn in my hand…so with out further ado, lets get on to our next CAL block.
As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 9: Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block:
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
BLO = Back Loop Only
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc):Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Pattern:
Rnd 1:With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts asfirst tr/dc)then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)
Rnd2:Ch5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2)tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skipnext st * [1 tr/dc. ch2, 1 tr/dc] in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)
Rnd 3:Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [2tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch3 sps)
Rnd4:Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2tr/dc. ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [3tr/dc. ch 3,3 tr/dc] into the next ch3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48sts + 8 x ch3 sps)
Rnd5:Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [3tr/dc. ch2,4 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [4tr/dc. ch2,4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)
Rnd6:Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp;attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join,finish off YARNB and weave in ends (72 sts)
Rnd 7:Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners;attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARNC and weave in ends (84sts)
Rnd8:Join YARNB in-between anyst of rnd7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARNB and weave in ends (28dc/sc + 28ch 3 sps)
Rnd9:Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice,3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp,3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96sts+4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), *3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice,3 tr/dc in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108sts+ 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in-between the next7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join,finish off YARND and weave in ends (120sts+ 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners;Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts, [1tr/dc, ch 3,1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to *three times, sl stto the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARNb and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Chart:
COMING SOON!
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 9 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 9 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clipsto hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Rnd 1:With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts asfirst tr/dc)then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)
Rnd2:Ch5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2)tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skipnext st * [1 tr/dc. ch2, 1 tr/dc] in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)
Rnd 3:Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [2tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch3 sps)
Rnd4:Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2tr/dc. ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [3tr/dc. ch 3,3 tr/dc] into the next ch3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48sts + 8 x ch3 sps)
Rnd5:Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [3tr/dc. ch2,4 tr/dc] in the same sp then * [4tr/dc. ch2,4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)
Rnd6:Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp;attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join,finish off YARNB and weave in ends (72 sts)
Rnd 7:Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners;attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARNC and weave in ends (84sts)
Rnd8:Join YARNB in-between anyst of rnd7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARNB and weave in ends (28dc/sc + 28ch 3 sps)
Rnd9:Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice,3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp,3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96sts+4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), *3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3,3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice,3 tr/dc in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108sts+ 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in-between the next7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join,finish off YARND and weave in ends (120sts+ 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners;Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts, [1tr/dc, ch 3,1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to *three times, sl stto the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARNb and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)
And that’s it! Part 8 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 18th May 2016.
Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?
If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.
For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.
This weeks CAL square is inspired by the Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy! So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter has been loving dancing round to it!
With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL. As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.
Written Pattern:
Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):
Notes:
Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm
If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.
Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.
Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
BLO = Back Loop Only
PC = Popcorn
Stitch Guidance:
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Pattern:
Note 1: Four colours used for this block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 2:With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3(counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6(counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 12:Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Chart:
For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms clickhere.
Blocking:
Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:
You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.
Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)
Joining:
You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to theCAL schematicbelow details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.
I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).
Tip 1: Use stitch markers orknit clipsto hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.
Photo Tutorial:
Rnd 1:With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 2:With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 3(counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6(counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
Rnd 12:Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)
And that’s it! Part 8 completed!
Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 4th May 2016.
