KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

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It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

01+logo

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Chart

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part14

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT02.jpg

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

TUT03.jpg

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT04.jpg

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

TUT05.jpg

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02+Logo.jpg

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13

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It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Banner

Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • sp= space
  • sl st= slip stitch
  • ch(s)= chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC= Popcorn
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

01+Text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

DSC09037.JPG

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part13.png

Photo Tutorial:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT07.jpg

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT08.jpg

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 12

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Oooo time for part 12 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Cats-Claw-Stripes-Hebrew

Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:

During the stylish 1960’s and 70’s it was very fashionable and perfectly legal in the UK to keep exotic animals as household pets, these ranged from leopards, pumas and panthers! However in 1976 the UK Government introduced the Dangerous Wild Animals Act to protect the public and ensure the animals we’re looked after properly.  

When I was younger I used to live pretty much next to Cannock Chase where there was a rumour of a panther at large – my brother and I had much fun scaring each other with tales of the beast roaming the ancient woodlands looking for juicy children to eat!  So this weeks section of the groovyghan is inspired by the claws of these big cats!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 12: Cats Claw Stripes:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Row width = 50 inches / 127 cm
  • Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • FPttr / FPdtr = UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet
  • BPttr / BPdtr = UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK front post triple treble Crochet / US front post double treble crochet (FPttr / FPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.
  • UK back post triple treble Crochet / US back post double treble crochet (BPttr / BPdtr): Yarn over 3 times and insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch two rows below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.

Pattern:

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 3:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last tr/dc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (103 tr/dc / 64 BPttr/BPdtr)

Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 10: Attach YARN E in the top of the last st made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr).  

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN E and weave in ends (167 sts)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

COMING SOON!

Apologies for not having the chart ready yet – you’ll have to blame the baby ;o)

Blocking:

As Part 12 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 12 directly to parts 8-10 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part12

Photo Tutorial: Cats Claw Stripes

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in each st along until end (167 sts)

TUT02.jpg

Row 3:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, , finish off YARN A and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT03

Row 4: Attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the last htr/hdc made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, turn (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr)

TUT04.jpg

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT05

Row 6: Attach YARN C to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

TUT06

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 BPttr/BPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (103 tr/dc / 64 BPttr/BPdtr)

TUT07

Row 8: Attach YARN D to the top of the last st made, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end (167 sts)

TUT08

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT09

Row 10: Attach YARN E in the top of the last st made. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, * 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until the last 7 sts, 1 FPttr/FPdtr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last 5 sts (103 tr/dc / 64 FPttr/FPdtr).  

TUT10.jpg

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in each st along until end, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT11.jpg

And that’s it! Part 12 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 13 to be released on 29 June 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 11

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Ooo our first block in a brand new month! Part 11 is inspired by the Royal Air Force roundel, a mod symbol of the swinging 60’s. 

For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun.  You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Mod-Spot-5-inch-Square-Hebrew-final (2)

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 11: Mod-Spot 5 inch block (make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Guidance: 

Surface crochet:  Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.

Pattern:

  • I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then  2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st,  [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps). 

Finishing:  Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle. 

01+Text

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART11

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part11

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,

TUT01.jpg

ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

TUT02

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then  2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

TUT03

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

TUT04

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st,  [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps). 

TUT06.jpg

Finishing:  Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle. 

TUT07

And that’s it! Part 11 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 10

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Well here we are at part 10, released a little earlier than scheduled (I didn’t think you would mind) as I have a family matter I have to deal with this week which meant I couldn’t bank on getting this blog post out to the world on Wednesday.

The exciting thing about part 10 is that means you’ve pretty much completed over half of the finished blanket.  I do hope you are enjoying the crochet journey so far!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Go-go-Herringbone-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL square is not the grooviest of all the pieces we are going to make but it’s an integral part of bringing the whole design together.  Inspired by go-go dancers of the 1960’s this block uses a standard stitch…but with a twist!  The overall effect is a lightly textured fabric with a subtle zig-zag effect that is very pleasing!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • HBhtr/HBhdc  = Herringbone UK half treble / Herringbone US half double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Herringbone Half Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc): Your stitch should slant to the left; when worked in rows it creates a herringbone effect. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • The ch 1 after a turn does not count as a st

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02

Chart:

4187486_orig

(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART10

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your blocks as per the CAL schematic (details below) for PART 10 by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; I chose to add my stripes vertically but choose the way you prefer for your blanket.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part10

Photo Tutorial:

Herringbone Half Double Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc):

Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook),

HBhdc01

yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

HBhdc02

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT02

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

TUT03

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT04

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT05

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

TUT06.jpg

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

03

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

And that’s it! Part 10 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 11 to be released on 1st June 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 9

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Time for part 9! Have you got your hooks at the ready!?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated into Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Wish-Upon-A-Star

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL block is brought to you with the dulcet tones of Louis Armstrong singing ‘Wish Upon a Star’  (recorded 1968).  I just LOVE his smooth and velvety voice! Makes me want to be sitting in a comfy chair, drinking tea with a hook and yarn in my hand…so with out further ado, lets get on to our next CAL block.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2.gif

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

COMING SOON!

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 9 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 9 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part9

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

TUT01

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

TUT07

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10a

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 18th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 8

Group-Banner

Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready? 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Bubble-Gum-Pop-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square 

This weeks CAL square is inspired by the Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy!  So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter has been loving dancing round to it!  

With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL.  As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Four colours used for this block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART8

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part8

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT07

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT09

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 4th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 6

Group-Banner

Time for part 6 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part6-hebrew

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Bargello Crochet is a term given to crochet patterns inspired by traditional Bargello (sometimes called ‘Florentine’) Needlework designs. This sort of design became popular in the 1970’s as a part of the New Age Movement which is why it’s perfect to include in our groovyghan (plus I’ve always wanted to have a go at it!).

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

02

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Row width = 30 inches / 76.2 cm
  • Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Row Start / Row End Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.
  • Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: The ch 3 at the start and end of each bargello cluster does not count as a stitch in any part of the pattern; rows should be worked into sl sts, htr/hdc or tr/dc sts only.

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc, sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row (wrong side facing) in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

Row 8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART6

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

As Part 6 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 6 directly to parts 1-5 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part6

Photo Tutorial: Florentine Bargello Stripes

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-01

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

TUT-02

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc,

TUT-03

sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3,

TUT-04

1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts

TUT-05

* repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

TUT-06

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-07

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

TUT-08

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT-09

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

TUT-10

Row 8: Repeat row 5

TUT-11

Row 9: Repeat row 3

TUT-12

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

TUT-13

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

TUT-14

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! Part 6 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 7 to be released on 6th April 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 5

Group-Banner

Time for part 5 of the Groovyghan CAL, hope you are enjoying it so far! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-par5-hebrew

Part 5: Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square 

I love how little squares look when joined up together but I haven’t got the perseverance to make a whole blanket out of wee blocks so I thought I’d incorporate just a few into this design instead.  Named and inspired by the famous 1960’s pop art artist Roy Lichtenstein we are going to use dots and solid bold colours to add interest to our finished Groovyghan.

These little squares are great stash-busters and great little projects to take out and about to then join together later! A simple little design with a subtle pattern which looks great either made in one colour or joined together in multiple colours.

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03

Written Pattern:

skill2

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 16 yds (15 m / 5 g) / Total squares 128 yds (120 m / 80 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 2.5 x 2.5 inches / 6.4 x 6.4 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Working in the back loop: When working in the BLO I like to work through both the back loop and the 3rd loop; it makes the stitch more sturdy and the subtle texture on the square neater.BLO
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Note: All stitches on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc), then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 3], *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART5

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

I blocked my finished panels once I had joined them together;

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your squares together into two sets of 2 x 4 panels; eight squares in total on each panel (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through each square and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 9 sts in total joined.

02

Using the same joining methods as the rest of the pieces you can now join all of your pieces together ready for Part 6!

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part5

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:  

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

The finished panel sizes (2 x eight block panels) in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 10 inches /12.7 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4).  

Blocking

Photo Tutorial:

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

1. Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring

TUT-01

2. ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st),

TUT-02

3.  then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

TUT-03

 4. Note: All stitches  on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc),

TUT-04

5. then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in to the same st as the beginning ch 3],

TUT-05

6. *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts,

TUT-06

7. [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next *

TUT-07

8. repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

04

And that’s it! Part 5 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 6 to be released on 23rd March 2016.

British vs. American Crochet Terms: What’s the Difference?

TermsSo I was asked something recently over on my Facebook page which I thought was a VERY interesting question!

Hey there! we are having a conversation on “Official CCC Social Group” a crochet page, about the difference between UK and US naming instructions. I used your Part one CAL, Groovyghan as an example link. I have some UKers that had no idea what I was talking about?! Could you explain why a SC in US is DC in UK?
Thanks so much!

I was taught by my Mum and Nana how to crochet and, living as I do in the UK, was taught using British terminology.  Like many people I didn’t even realise that there was another type of terminology until I really got into crochet as an adult.  

The difference between the two terms was a bit of a bug bear for me at first (until I became more crochet-bilingual) as I found some amazingly lovely patterns that were written in American terms but I found I was forever having to go back to check the terminology section to make sure I was crocheting the right stitch. And once you’ve crocheted a UK double crochet instead of an American one you quickly see that it’s a big, difference as the height of the stitch is taller – this, aside from being really annoying when you realise, affects the whole pattern so you need to get it right!

This had a profound affect on me when I came to design my own patterns. I didn’t want people to have to flick backwards and forwards so I started writing both abbreviations straight into all my patterns (with the UK terminology first) e.g. * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st *. I know most people could translate the pattern themselves but I always think it’s nicer to have things done for you!

So what are the differences?

British Crochet American Crochet
Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc)
Half treble crochet (htr) Half double crochet (hdc)
Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc)
Double treble crochet (dtr) Treble crochet (tr)
Triple treble crochet (ttr) Double treble crochet (dtr)

So why is it different?

I did a bit of searching on the web and couldn’t find a definitive answer (if you know please let me know!) I believe the English call it a double crochet because to perform the stitch you have to wind the yarn around the hook and pull it through leaving TWO loops on your hook, (the same goes for our treble crochet because you get THREE loops on your hook). I think the American terminology comes from the fact you are making a single stitch (rather than how you create the stitch) – so their double crochet is effectively two single crochets – if that makes sense! 

Knowing which is which…

There is a lot of duplication between the abbreviations which can make it tricky to know what terminology it’s written in.  I think in most cases pattern designers these days state somewhere on their pattern what terms the pattern is written in but with older patterns you might have to check in other ways…   

You will pretty much always know if you are working a American terms pattern if they mention single crochet (sc) as that is not used in British terminology.  It’s useful to mention here that Australian patterns are usually written in UK terms.

Another possible way to determine if it’s UK or American is how we describe our hook sizes (though I tend to put both options in my patterns). For UK it tends to be in metric sizes, in US it’s usually done with letters.

British Hook Sizes American Hook Sizes
2.00mm  
2.25mm B
2.50mm  
2.75mm C
3.00mm  
3.25mm D
3.50mm E
3.75mm F
4.00mm G
4.25mm  
4.50mm 7
5.00mm H
5.50mm I
6.00mm J
6.50mm K
7.00mm  
8.00mm L
9.00mm M / N
10.00mm N / P

Same with yarn thickness; in the UK we would say it was 3 ply, 4 ply, double knit or Aran. In the US it’s usually fingering, sport, worsted (in fact I didn’t know what worsted was for the longest time – another reason why I put all name variations in my patterns!). 

Yarn-Aliases

So I hope you have found that helpful, if you have any more useful tips on this subject I’d love to hear them!