Category Archives: Tutorial

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 5

Posted in Afghan Square, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Patterns, Tutorial by

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Time for part 5 of the Groovyghan CAL, hope you are enjoying it so far! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-par5-hebrew

Part 5: Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square 

I love how little squares look when joined up together but I haven’t got the perseverance to make a whole blanket out of wee blocks so I thought I’d incorporate just a few into this design instead.  Named and inspired by the famous 1960’s pop art artist Roy Lichtenstein we are going to use dots and solid bold colours to add interest to our finished Groovyghan.

These little squares are great stash-busters and great little projects to take out and about to then join together later! A simple little design with a subtle pattern which looks great either made in one colour or joined together in multiple colours.

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03

Written Pattern:

skill2

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 16 yds (15 m / 5 g) / Total squares 128 yds (120 m / 80 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 2.5 x 2.5 inches / 6.4 x 6.4 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Working in the back loop: When working in the BLO I like to work through both the back loop and the 3rd loop; it makes the stitch more sturdy and the subtle texture on the square neater.BLO
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Note: All stitches on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc), then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 3], *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART5

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

I blocked my finished panels once I had joined them together;

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your squares together into two sets of 2 x 4 panels; eight squares in total on each panel (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through each square and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 9 sts in total joined.

02

Using the same joining methods as the rest of the pieces you can now join all of your pieces together ready for Part 6!

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part5

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:  

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

The finished panel sizes (2 x eight block panels) in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 10 inches /12.7 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4).  

Blocking

Photo Tutorial:

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

1. Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring

TUT-01

2. ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st),

TUT-02

3.  then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

TUT-03

 4. Note: All stitches  on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc),

TUT-04

5. then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in to the same st as the beginning ch 3],

TUT-05

6. *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts,

TUT-06

7. [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next *

TUT-07

8. repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

04

And that’s it! Part 5 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 6 to be released on 23rd March 2016.

British vs. American Crochet Terms: What’s the Difference?

Posted in Blogging, Crochet, Stitches, Tutorial by

TermsSo I was asked something recently over on my Facebook page which I thought was a VERY interesting question!

Hey there! we are having a conversation on “Official CCC Social Group” a crochet page, about the difference between UK and US naming instructions. I used your Part one CAL, Groovyghan as an example link. I have some UKers that had no idea what I was talking about?! Could you explain why a SC in US is DC in UK?
Thanks so much!

I was taught by my Mum and Nana how to crochet and, living as I do in the UK, was taught using British terminology.  Like many people I didn’t even realise that there was another type of terminology until I really got into crochet as an adult.  

The difference between the two terms was a bit of a bug bear for me at first (until I became more crochet-bilingual) as I found some amazingly lovely patterns that were written in American terms but I found I was forever having to go back to check the terminology section to make sure I was crocheting the right stitch. And once you’ve crocheted a UK double crochet instead of an American one you quickly see that it’s a big, difference as the height of the stitch is taller – this, aside from being really annoying when you realise, affects the whole pattern so you need to get it right!

This had a profound affect on me when I came to design my own patterns. I didn’t want people to have to flick backwards and forwards so I started writing both abbreviations straight into all my patterns (with the UK terminology first) e.g. * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st *. I know most people could translate the pattern themselves but I always think it’s nicer to have things done for you!

So what are the differences?

British Crochet American Crochet
Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc)
Half treble crochet (htr) Half double crochet (hdc)
Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc)
Double treble crochet (dtr) Treble crochet (tr)
Triple treble crochet (ttr) Double treble crochet (dtr)

So why is it different?

I did a bit of searching on the web and couldn’t find a definitive answer (if you know please let me know!) I believe the English call it a double crochet because to perform the stitch you have to wind the yarn around the hook and pull it through leaving TWO loops on your hook, (the same goes for our treble crochet because you get THREE loops on your hook). I think the American terminology comes from the fact you are making a single stitch (rather than how you create the stitch) – so their double crochet is effectively two single crochets – if that makes sense! 

Knowing which is which…

There is a lot of duplication between the abbreviations which can make it tricky to know what terminology it’s written in.  I think in most cases pattern designers these days state somewhere on their pattern what terms the pattern is written in but with older patterns you might have to check in other ways…   

You will pretty much always know if you are working a American terms pattern if they mention single crochet (sc) as that is not used in British terminology.  It’s useful to mention here that Australian patterns are usually written in UK terms.

Another possible way to determine if it’s UK or American is how we describe our hook sizes (though I tend to put both options in my patterns). For UK it tends to be in metric sizes, in US it’s usually done with letters.

British Hook Sizes American Hook Sizes
2.00mm  
2.25mm B
2.50mm  
2.75mm C
3.00mm  
3.25mm D
3.50mm E
3.75mm F
4.00mm G
4.25mm  
4.50mm 7
5.00mm H
5.50mm I
6.00mm J
6.50mm K
7.00mm  
8.00mm L
9.00mm M / N
10.00mm N / P

Same with yarn thickness; in the UK we would say it was 3 ply, 4 ply, double knit or Aran. In the US it’s usually fingering, sport, worsted (in fact I didn’t know what worsted was for the longest time – another reason why I put all name variations in my patterns!). 

Yarn-Aliases

So I hope you have found that helpful, if you have any more useful tips on this subject I’d love to hear them!

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 3

Posted in Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Patterns, Stitches, Tutorial by

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Time for part 3 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part3-HEBREW

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

This weeks part has a 1960’s retro feel to it by bringing in some groovy waves!  Who doesn’t love waves / ripples! I know I don’t use them often enough; they just look so cool when they are made!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • tr/dc2tog  = UK Treble / US 2 double Crochet together
  • tr/dc3tog = UK Treble / US 3 double Crochet together
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • dtr/tr2tog  = UK Double Treble / US 2 Treble Crochet together
  • dtr/tr3tog = UK Double Treble / US 3 Treble Crochet together

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr2tog/dc2tog): Yarn over insert your hook in indicated st and pull up a loop, yarn over. pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), insert your crochet hook into the next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US 3 Double Crochet together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all 4 loops left on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble Crochet (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US 2 Treble Crochet together (dtr/tr2tog): * Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook into next st, Yarn over, pull up a loop, (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice, repeat from * to * once more, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US 3 Treble Crochet together (dtr/tr3tog): * Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook into next st, Yarn over, pull up a loop, (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice, repeat from * two more times, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next st, * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * four times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining st, finish off YARN A, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 3: Join YARN B to first st, Ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc3tog over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * three times, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 3, finish off YARN B, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 5: Join YARN C to first st, Ch 4 (counts as a dtr/tr), dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr3tog over the next 3 sts, * repeat from * to *  three times, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the remaining st, turn (33 sts) 

Row 6: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, finish off YARN C, weave in any ends, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Join YARN A to first st, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8: Repeat row 2

Rows 9 – 10: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12-13: Repeat row 6-7

Row 14: Repeat row 2

Row 15-16: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 17:  Repeat row 5

Row 18-19: Repeat row 6-7

Row 20: Repeat row 2

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Note 2: You might want to measure your block for the last row and change it to htr/hdc rather than tr/dc if you reach 10 inches.

Row 22: Repeat row 6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the right and left side of your work 33 times.  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

02=Logo.jpg

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART3

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 3 directly to part 1 and part 2 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part3

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

FDC-03

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 1: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

TUT02A

Row 2:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next st, * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 

TUT02

1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st *

TUT03

repeat from * to * four times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining st, finish off YARN A, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT04

Row 3: Join YARN B to first st, Ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st,

TUT05

1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc3tog over the next 3 sts *

TUT06

repeat from * to * three times, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT07

Row 4: Repeat row 3, finish off YARN B, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT08

Row 5: Join YARN C to first st, Ch 4 (counts as a dtr/tr), dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts,

TUT09

* 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st,

TUT10

1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr3tog over the next 3 sts, *

TUT11

repeat from * to *  three times, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the remaining st, turn (33 sts) 

TUT12

Row 6: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, finish off YARN C, weave in any ends, turn (33 sts)

TUT13

Row 7: Join YARN A to first st, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

TUT14

 

TUT16

Row 8: Repeat row 2

Rows 9 – 10: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12-13: Repeat row 6-7

Row 14: Repeat row 2

Row 15-16: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 17:  Repeat row 5

Row 18-19: Repeat row 6-7

Row 20: Repeat row 2

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Note 2: You might want to measure your block for the last row and change it to htr/hdc rather than tr/dc if you reach 10 inches.

Row 22: Repeat row 6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the right and left side of your work 33 times.  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

And that’s it! Part 3 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 4 to be released on 24th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 2

Posted in Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Patterns, Stitches, Tutorial by

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Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 2 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part2-HEBREW

Part 2: Hot-butter Popcorn Panel 

This weeks part is inspired by the extremely fun 1970’s song Popcorn by Hotbutter – you can have fun listening to it whilst you hook!  I love how a Popcorn stitch looks and how much texture Popcorn’s can add to a crochet project so I knew I wanted to add some into the pattern somewhere.  Almost by accident I discovered that a backwards (wrong side facing) Popcorn can actually look, in some respects, nicer than a forwards (right side facing) one – so I decided to throw that into the works as well! As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  62.5 yds (25 g / 75 m) Total panel 125 yds ( 50 g / 150 m)
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C but you could make the panel in a single colour if you don’t fancy adding the colour changes; just ignore the bits where I say cc to a different yarn.
  • Note 2: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern. When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured  yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate  long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,  * 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC * repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART2

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 2 directly to part 1 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details), or wait until you have completed parts 3, 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part2

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

DSC07272

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

PP-01

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-02

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,

PP-03

* 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st,

PP-04

1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC

PP-05

* repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

PP-06

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-07

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

PP-08

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-09

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-11

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-12

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

PP-13

And that’s it! Part 2 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 3 to be released on 10th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 1

Posted in Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Stitches, Tutorial by

Group-Banner

Yay let’s get started with Part 1 of the CAL shall we!!!! I’m so excited that so many of you have decided to join in the CAL with me this year!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part1-HEBREW

Part 1: Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square 

To me there is nothing more elegant than the traditional granny square – it’s iconic for a reason! It’s probably the first thing I was taught how to make and I still love how it looks.  The granny square was also huge in the 1960’s-1970’s and as much of my groovyghan design is inspired by that period I knew I had to include the granny square in our blanket. I completely didn’t invent this pattern but this is my twist on the timeless classic.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn left over from other projects and the basic granny square motif does not require advanced skills to execute – a perfect starting point to ease us in gently to our groovyghan!  

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern and a photo tutorial of how I have worked this pattern (see below).

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • 3tr/dc = 1 Cluster
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
  • Note 1: I used the same colour for rnd 3 on all of my granny squares to help with overall coordination – but worked different inners / outers to keep it groovy!
  • Note 2: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that I don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN C and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

KCACOUK CAL 2016 - Part 1

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 1 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 1 (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Joining= 

Photo Tutorial:

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

1. Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring

01-TUT

2. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)

02-TUT

3. 2 tr/dc into the ring,

03-TUT

 4. ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring,

05-TUT

5. ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,

06-TUT

6. then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

7. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

08-TUT

8. * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made),

09-TUT

9. repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

10. Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,

11-TUT

11.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

12-TUT

12. Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

13-TUT

13. * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,

14-TUT

14.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

15-TUT

15. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

16-TUT

And that’s it! Part 1 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 2 to be released on 27th January 2016.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 | FREE Pattern | Beaded Beauty Border

Posted in Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Stitches, Tutorial by

Sooo I wanted a nice simple solid edge to bring together and compliment our finished Afghans whilst at the same time be usable to all you lovely crochet-alongers with varying end stitch counts – not an easy task I can tell you! But I finally came up with something that I think you will like!

Introducing the ‘Beaded Beauty Border’ which is our edging for our 2015 Crochet-Along Afghan – though I think it would make an attractive crochet edging on any blanket!

This is an easy pattern suitable for beginners looking to learn some new crochet techniques. Click here to add this pattern to your favourites / queue on Ravelry or scroll down for the pattern.

01

Beaded Beauty Border:

skill2

Use the same yarn and hook that you used to make your blanket.  For my border I used up left overs of the colours and yarn that I used for my CAL (which I blogged about here). 

Stitch Guidance:

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Bead Stitch: Insert hook and pull up a loop, * yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook, * repeat from * to * twice more, yarn over and pull through  two remaining loops on hook, making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side work 1 dc/sc in next st (see photo tutorial below).
  • Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet: A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as for a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.  See my photo tutorial for crab stitch here.
  • [ ]: work all the sts in brackets into 1 st.

Pattern Guidance:

To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2 sts.  For my first round I evened up my sides by working a htr/hdc in the 3rd loop (though you could work in the back loop if preferred) and decreased/increased where needed.  In the corners I worked [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc].

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (or use a standing htr/hdc) to start, then work 1 htr/hdc in each st around until end; working [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc] in each corner, finish off and weave in ends.

Rnd 2: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), then work 1 bead stitch, continue working bead st around your blanket working, [1 dc/sc, bead st] in each corner, finish off if changing colour here and weave in ends (see below for photo tutorial). 

Note: I used the same colour for rnd 3 and rnd 4 to finish off the border.

Rnd 3: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), work 1 dc/sc in each st around until end; working [3 dc/sc] in each corner.

Rnd 4: Work crab st in each st around, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it!

Bead Stitch Tutorial:

  1. Insert your hook into your first st

Tut01

2. Yarn over and pull up a loop

Tut02

3. Yarn over 

Tut03

4. Pull through 1 loop on the hook only 

Tut04

5. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again 

Tut05

6. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again 

Tut06

7.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

Tut07

8. Making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side, work 1 dc/sc in next st

Tut08

If this edging is not to your taste have a look at some of these other suggestions here, here and here.

So that’s the border! I’m not going to show you the whole of my blanket yet…I’m saving it for the big tah-dah reveal on 16th December! I seriously can’t wait to see all your finished blankets!!!!

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 | Crab Stitch Crochet Join for Afghan Blocks

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Tutorial by

Ends

Soooo it’s time to start joining our blocks together for the 2015 CAL! For my joins I really wanted something that would create a ‘frame’ for each of our unique squares.  I wanted something that was slightly raised (to compliment the 3-D blocks we’ve used) and something that would add a bit of texture (because you can NEVER have too much texture!).

So I started looking around and there are some really lovely joins out there, (check out Moogly’s round up of joins here and some ideas from Craft Passion here), but they just weren’t right for the idea I’d got in my head about how I wanted my end blanket to look.

Now I’m a big fan of crab stitch (or reverse UK double crochet / US single crochet) it is definitely my go to edging because I just love how it looks! So I wondered about using crab stitch to join my blocks and once I’d tried it I absolutely LOVED it as a joining method!!!   The nice thing about a crab stitch join is that, as with single crochet join, it doesn’t matter if you have an odd or even number of stitches on the sides of your blocks – plus it’s really quick to join blocks with too.

See below my tutorial on how to do crab stitch and how to use it to join your afghan blocks together.  For anyone who just can’t get along with crocheting backwards you might want to try this tutorial I have seen on My Hobby is Crochet for a Twisted Single Crochet.  This stitch is like crab stitch, but moving forward instead of backwards.

Crab Stitch Tutorial

Crab Stitch (or reverse UK double crochet / US single crochet) is made by doing dc/sc crochet stitches backwards!  If you are right-handed you will work the crab stitch from left to right, and if you are left-handed you will work from right to left.

  1. Sl st your yarn into your first st, 

CS-01

2. Insert hook into stitch to the right (or left) then yarn over once (just like a dc/sc)

CS-02

3.  Pull the yarn through the st (you should now have two loops on your hook).

CS-03

4. Yarn over again, and pull through both loops on your hook – and that’s it, your first crab stitch made.

CS-04

 5. Keep working in this manner to make your edge (or in our case in a moment your join). Nice and simple and absolutely yummy in it’s textural glory!

CS-05

Crab Stitch Join

You will need to have already made your preparations for joining up your blocks which I talked about here.

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.

Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

  1. With the right sides of both your blocks facing outwards, line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match then start your crab stitch along one edge, working the stitches through both squares,  to join.

Join-01

2. When you get to the end of the row hold your next two edges together and continue to work your crab stitch straight across. Continuing working in this way until you have joined eight squares together in a long row.  At the end of the row, fasten off and weave in your ends.  Do the same for all your horizontal rows.

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3. Next work the vertical rows in the same way.

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So that’s the join! I’m not going to show you the whole of my blanket yet…I’m saving it for the big reveal!  Next week though we’ll look at adding our border – don’t forget to check back on 9th December.

Video Tutorial – Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl

Posted in Crochet, For Adult, Free Patterns, Tutorial by

Margaret's Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl

It makes me so happy that my Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl has been downloaded over 13,800 times since I first shared it in February last year.  I really love the thought of all these shawls being made up and going to someone that could do with a hug.  

However I have had a couple of requests for a video tutorial for this pattern so I’ve had a go to create one for you.  Now it’s a bit shaky as it’s my first go at trying to do something like this but I hope it helps!

Don’t forget you can get your free copy of Margaret’s Hug Healing / Prayer Shawl here on the blog or over on Ravelry and Craftsy.