KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Patterns, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those. I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5: Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

30Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end!

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can!

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design. I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1], miss the next 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern. If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

14Jul2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

Posted in Afghan Square, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat. Note: As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet. When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3: New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4: New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

29Jun2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s)= stitch(es)
sp= space
sl st= slip stitch
ch(s)= chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
PC= Popcorn
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the same sp then * 1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round, 1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

What is blocking? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blocking_%28textile_arts%29
How to Wet Block a Square by Moogly: http://www.mooglyblog.com/how-to-wet-block-afghan-squares/
Steam Blocking Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSe949pbkBA

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.

1Jun2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 11

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Ooo our first block in a brand new month! Part 11 is inspired by the Royal Air Force roundel, a mod symbol of the swinging 60’s.

For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun. You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Mod-Spot-5-inch-Square-Hebrew-final (2)

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 11: Mod-Spot 5 inch block (make 10):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
[ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Guidance:

Surface crochet: Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.

Pattern:

I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st, [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps).

Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work;

line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,

ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then 2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

Finishing: Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle.

And that’s it! Part 11 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.

16May2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 10

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, From the Stash, Pattern Release, Patterns, Stitches, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Well here we are at part 10, released a little earlier than scheduled (I didn’t think you would mind) as I have a family matter I have to deal with this week which meant I couldn’t bank on getting this blog post out to the world on Wednesday.

The exciting thing about part 10 is that means you’ve pretty much completed over half of the finished blanket. I do hope you are enjoying the crochet journey so far!

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Go-go-Herringbone-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block

This weeks CAL square is not the grooviest of all the pieces we are going to make but it’s an integral part of bringing the whole design together. Inspired by go-go dancers of the 1960’s this block uses a standard stitch…but with a twist! The overall effect is a lightly textured fabric with a subtle zig-zag effect that is very pleasing!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up 125 yds / 50g / 150 m
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
HBhtr/HBhdc = Herringbone UK half treble / Herringbone US half double crochet

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains. For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
Herringbone Half Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc): Your stitch should slant to the left; when worked in rows it creates a herringbone effect. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
The ch 1 after a turn does not count as a st

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your blocks as per the CAL schematic (details below) for PART 10 by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; I chose to add my stripes vertically but choose the way you prefer for your blanket.

Photo Tutorial:

Herringbone Half Double Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc):

Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook),

yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

And that’s it! Part 10 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 11 to be released on 1st June 2016.

23Mar2016

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 6

Posted in Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2016, Free Patterns, Stitches, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Time for part 6 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part6-hebrew

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Bargello Crochet is a term given to crochet patterns inspired by traditional Bargello (sometimes called ‘Florentine’) Needlework designs. This sort of design became popular in the 1970’s as a part of the New Age Movement which is why it’s perfect to include in our groovyghan (plus I’ve always wanted to have a go at it!).

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Notes:

Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

Row width = 30 inches / 76.2 cm
Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations:

st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
ch(s) = chain
FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
BLO = Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC): Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Row Start / Row End Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.
Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.

Pattern:

Note 1: The ch 3 at the start and end of each bargello cluster does not count as a stitch in any part of the pattern; rows should be worked into sl sts, htr/hdc or tr/dc sts only.

Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc, sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row (wrong side facing) in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

Row 8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

As Part 6 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 6 directly to parts 1-5 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has.

Photo Tutorial: Florentine Bargello Stripes

Row 1: With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc,

sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3,

1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts

* repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

Row 8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! Part 6 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 7 to be released on 6th April 2016.

16Dec2015

The KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 – BIG REVEAL!!!

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Tah-Dah by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

It’s here! It’s here! It’s time!!! The END of the 2015 Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Afghan CAL! But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x

First I want to say a few thank you’s! Ooo it feels a bit like the Oscars doesn’t it! I wanted to take this opportunity to say thank you once again to all the lovely designers that were kind enough to let me use their designs as part of the CAL (see the full list here). I also want to thank the fabulous admins (Kimberlie, Michelle, Jenn & Kat x) of the Facebook group for their support throughout the year. Finally I want to thank YOU all for crocheting along with me! So many more of you joined in this project than I ever imagined! I hope you have enjoyed crocheting a-long with me as much as I’ve enjoyed seeing all the fabulous work that you have shared with me.

And now… the moment we’ve all been waiting for…the BIG REVEAL!

Tah-Dah!!! My finished multi-square Afghan blanket!

It’s unbelievably tricky to try and get a photo of a blanket this large, mine fits most comfortably over a single bed with some overlap but I just about managed it! It’s annoying though how the lovely dark purple that I used comes out as blue on my camera sometimes so these aren’t quite the true colours that I actual chose (see them here).

I’m really pleased with how the finished blanket has turned out. It’s the biggest thing I have made to date…

It’s been great joining it together whilst the weather has been turning colder as it’s been keeping me lovely and warm, and I did joke to my husband that I might have to keep it for myself. But the little person for whom this blanket was intended has been eagerly waiting for me to finish…and she LOVES her new blanket (and yes she is wearing make-up from a pamper birthday party that she went to and yes she then refused to take off!)

The finished blanket was quickly claimed hot of the hook and what followed was lots of gleeful rolling about in finished the blanket…

And that’s, almost literally in the case of Little G, a wrap! But don’t despair…I have some new CAL plans for 2016 so watch this space for details coming soon!

Thank you all again, for crocheting-a-long with me this year! I can’t wait to see your fabulous finished Afghans – some of which, with kind permission, I’ll be sharing this week!

9Dec2015

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 | FREE Pattern | Beaded Beauty Border

Posted in Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Stitches, Tutorial by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

Sooo I wanted a nice simple solid edge to bring together and compliment our finished Afghans whilst at the same time be usable to all you lovely crochet-alongers with varying end stitch counts – not an easy task I can tell you! But I finally came up with something that I think you will like!

Introducing the ‘Beaded Beauty Border’ which is our edging for our 2015 Crochet-Along Afghan – though I think it would make an attractive crochet edging on any blanket!

This is an easy pattern suitable for beginners looking to learn some new crochet techniques. Click here to add this pattern to your favourites / queue on Ravelry or scroll down for the pattern.

Beaded Beauty Border:

Use the same yarn and hook that you used to make your blanket. For my border I used up left overs of the colours and yarn that I used for my CAL (which I blogged about here).

Stitch Guidance:

UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
Bead Stitch: Insert hook and pull up a loop, * yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook, * repeat from * to * twice more, yarn over and pull through two remaining loops on hook, making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side work 1 dc/sc in next st (see photo tutorial below).
Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet: A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as for a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. See my photo tutorial for crab stitch here.
[ ]: work all the sts in brackets into 1 st.

Pattern Guidance:

To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2 sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by working a htr/hdc in the 3rd loop (though you could work in the back loop if preferred) and decreased/increased where needed. In the corners I worked [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc].

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (or use a standing htr/hdc) to start, then work 1 htr/hdc in each st around until end; working [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc] in each corner, finish off and weave in ends.

Rnd 2: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), then work 1 bead stitch, continue working bead st around your blanket working, [1 dc/sc, bead st] in each corner, finish off if changing colour here and weave in ends (see below for photo tutorial).

Note: I used the same colour for rnd 3 and rnd 4 to finish off the border.

Rnd 3: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), work 1 dc/sc in each st around until end; working [3 dc/sc] in each corner.

Rnd 4: Work crab st in each st around, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it!

Bead Stitch Tutorial:

Insert your hook into your first st

2. Yarn over and pull up a loop

3. Yarn over

4. Pull through 1 loop on the hook only

5. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again

6. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again

7. Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

8. Making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side, work 1 dc/sc in next st

If this edging is not to your taste have a look at some of these other suggestions here, here and here.

So that’s the border! I’m not going to show you the whole of my blanket yet…I’m saving it for the big tah-dah reveal on 16th December! I seriously can’t wait to see all your finished blankets!!!!

28Oct2015

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 22

Posted in Afghan Square, Blanket, Crochet, Crochet-A-Long 2015, Free Patterns, Pattern Release, Stitches by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

So it’s time for block 22 and it’s a brand NEW design from me! Born out of my own desire to learn how to do Bavarian crochet our next block ticks that off my to do list and brings, what I hope you will agree, a fun addition to the CAL.

I’m not going to lie, Bavarian crochet is a little tricky to master at first but once you get into the swing of it you should be fine! I have added photos of the first 6 rnds in the pattern as extra guidance but should you find it just not to your taste a list of alternative blocks you could use can be found here. If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and will be forever.

Bavarian Beauty by Heather C Gibbs

Notes:

Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours
Pattern uses UK and American crochet terms.

Specialist stitches:

UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
UK Double Treble 4 together / US Treble 4 together (dtr4tog/tr4tog): * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch (4 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook (3 loops left), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on the hook (2 loops left) * repeat * to * 3 times, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
UK 4 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 4 Back Post US Treble Decrease (4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec): When working back post sts you insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around). * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook around post of indicated st, yarn over hook, drawn yarn through stitch, (yarn over hook, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook) twice * repeat * to * 3 times around the next 3 st posts, yarn over hook, draw yarn through 5 loops on hook.
UK 8 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 8 Back Post US Treble Decrease (8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec): Working the same as the 4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec but continuing to * hold the last loop of each stitch on hook, bptr/bptr around each of next 4 stitches *, skip sl st between sts and then on next group of dtr/tr’s, repeat * to * once, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here). I did enjoy doing the Bavarian crochet though it can be a bit fiddly if you use a covered hook with the 8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec’s. It was also fun to work out the colour placement and I know that you guys are going to come up with some amazing combinations – can’t wait to see!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on 11th or 12th November.