KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 9

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Time for part 9! Have you got your hooks at the ready!?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated into Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Wish-Upon-A-Star

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL block is brought to you with the dulcet tones of Louis Armstrong singing ‘Wish Upon a Star’  (recorded 1968).  I just LOVE his smooth and velvety voice! Makes me want to be sitting in a comfy chair, drinking tea with a hook and yarn in my hand…so with out further ado, lets get on to our next CAL block.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2.gif

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

COMING SOON!

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 9 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 9 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part9

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

TUT01

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

TUT07

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10a

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 18th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 8

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Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready? 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Bubble-Gum-Pop-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square 

This weeks CAL square is inspired by the Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy!  So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter has been loving dancing round to it!  

With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL.  As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Four colours used for this block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART8

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part8

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

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And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 4th May 2016.

The KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 – BIG REVEAL!!!

It’s here! It’s here! It’s time!!! The END of the 2015 Keep Calm and Crochet On UK Afghan CAL!  But don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule here and I promise to keep all the details on the blog FOREVER x

First I want to say a few thank you’s! Ooo it feels a bit like the Oscars doesn’t it! I wanted to take this opportunity to say thank you once again to all the lovely designers that were kind enough to let me use their designs as part of the CAL (see the full list here). I also want to thank the fabulous admins (Kimberlie, Michelle, Jenn & Kat x) of the Facebook group for their support throughout the year. Finally I want to thank YOU all for crocheting along with me! So many more of you joined in this project than I ever imagined! I hope you have enjoyed crocheting a-long with me as much as I’ve enjoyed seeing all the fabulous work that you have shared with me.  

And now… the moment we’ve all been waiting for…the BIG REVEAL!

Tah-Dah!!!  My finished multi-square Afghan blanket!

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It’s unbelievably tricky to try and get a photo of a blanket this large, mine fits most comfortably over a single bed with some overlap but I just about managed it!  It’s annoying though how the lovely dark purple that I used comes out as blue on my camera sometimes so these aren’t quite the true colours that I actual chose (see them here). 

I’m really pleased with how the finished blanket has turned out.  It’s the biggest thing I have made to date…

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It’s been great joining it together whilst the weather has been turning colder as it’s been keeping me lovely and warm, and I did joke to my husband that I might have to keep it for myself.  But the little person for whom this blanket was intended has been eagerly waiting for me to finish…and she LOVES her new blanket (and yes she is wearing make-up from a pamper birthday party that she went to and yes she then refused to take off!)

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The finished blanket was quickly claimed hot of the hook and what followed was lots of gleeful rolling about in finished the blanket…

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And that’s, almost literally in the case of Little G, a wrap! But don’t despair…I have some new CAL plans for 2016 so watch this space for details coming soon!

Thank you all again, for crocheting-a-long with me this year! I can’t wait to see your fabulous finished Afghans – some of which, with kind permission, I’ll be sharing this week!

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 | FREE Pattern | Beaded Beauty Border

Sooo I wanted a nice simple solid edge to bring together and compliment our finished Afghans whilst at the same time be usable to all you lovely crochet-alongers with varying end stitch counts – not an easy task I can tell you! But I finally came up with something that I think you will like!

Introducing the ‘Beaded Beauty Border’ which is our edging for our 2015 Crochet-Along Afghan – though I think it would make an attractive crochet edging on any blanket!

This is an easy pattern suitable for beginners looking to learn some new crochet techniques. Click here to add this pattern to your favourites / queue on Ravelry or scroll down for the pattern.

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Beaded Beauty Border:

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Use the same yarn and hook that you used to make your blanket.  For my border I used up left overs of the colours and yarn that I used for my CAL (which I blogged about here). 

Stitch Guidance:

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Bead Stitch: Insert hook and pull up a loop, * yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook, * repeat from * to * twice more, yarn over and pull through  two remaining loops on hook, making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side work 1 dc/sc in next st (see photo tutorial below).
  • Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet: A reverse single crochet stitch is worked the same as for a regular single crochet — except in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. Insert hook, from front to back, in the next st to the right and draw up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.  See my photo tutorial for crab stitch here.
  • [ ]: work all the sts in brackets into 1 st.

Pattern Guidance:

To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 2 sts.  For my first round I evened up my sides by working a htr/hdc in the 3rd loop (though you could work in the back loop if preferred) and decreased/increased where needed.  In the corners I worked [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc].

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (or use a standing htr/hdc) to start, then work 1 htr/hdc in each st around until end; working [1 htr/hdc, ch 2, 1 htr/hdc] in each corner, finish off and weave in ends.

Rnd 2: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), then work 1 bead stitch, continue working bead st around your blanket working, [1 dc/sc, bead st] in each corner, finish off if changing colour here and weave in ends (see below for photo tutorial). 

Note: I used the same colour for rnd 3 and rnd 4 to finish off the border.

Rnd 3: Starting in any corner ch 1 (or use a standing dc/sc), work 1 dc/sc in each st around until end; working [3 dc/sc] in each corner.

Rnd 4: Work crab st in each st around, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it!

Bead Stitch Tutorial:

  1. Insert your hook into your first st

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2. Yarn over and pull up a loop

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3. Yarn over 

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4. Pull through 1 loop on the hook only 

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5. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again 

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6. Yarn over and pull through 1st loop on hook again 

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7.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

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8. Making sure your ‘bead’ is facing the right side, work 1 dc/sc in next st

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If this edging is not to your taste have a look at some of these other suggestions here, here and here.

So that’s the border! I’m not going to show you the whole of my blanket yet…I’m saving it for the big tah-dah reveal on 16th December! I seriously can’t wait to see all your finished blankets!!!!

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 22

So it’s time for block 22  and it’s a brand NEW design from me!  Born out of my own desire to learn how to do Bavarian crochet our next block ticks that off my to do list and brings, what I hope you will agree, a fun addition to the CAL.

I’m not going to lie, Bavarian crochet is a little tricky to master at first but once you get into the swing of it you should be fine!  I have added photos of the first 6 rnds in the pattern as extra guidance but should you find it just not to your taste a list of alternative blocks you could use can be found here. If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and will be forever.

Bavarian Beauty by Heather C Gibbs

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Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours
  • Pattern uses UK and American crochet terms.

Specialist stitches:

  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble 4 together / US Treble 4 together (dtr4tog/tr4tog): * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch (4 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook (3 loops left), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on the hook (2 loops left) * repeat * to * 3 times, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
  • UK 4 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 4 Back Post US Treble Decrease (4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec): When working back post sts you insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around). * Yarn over hook twice, insert hook around post of indicated st, yarn over hook, drawn yarn through stitch, (yarn over hook, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook) twice * repeat * to * 3 times around the next 3 st posts, yarn over hook, draw yarn through 5 loops on hook.
  • UK 8 Back Post Double Treble Decrease / US 8 Back Post US Treble Decrease (8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec): Working the same as the 4 BPdtr-dec/4 BPtr-dec but continuing to * hold the last loop of each stitch on hook, bptr/bptr around each of next 4 stitches *, skip sl st between sts and then on next group of dtr/tr’s, repeat * to * once, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook. 

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here).  I did enjoy doing the Bavarian crochet though it can be a bit fiddly if you use a covered hook with the 8 BPdtr-dec/8 BPtr-dec’s.  It was also fun to work out the colour placement and I know that you guys are going to come up with some amazing combinations – can’t wait to see!

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on 11th or 12th November.

KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 21

Throughout this CAL I have been trying to look for blocks that are all a little different so our resulting Afghan will be a multitude of creativity and fun!  That’s why I love this next block; stripes, ruffles, texture, segments…there really is something for everyone! 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue. This square is currently free on Ravelry and has been since Feburary 2015.

 Fan Club by Polly Plum

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/

Specialist stitches:

  • Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
  • Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, wrap yarn around hook and hold in place with thumb or fi nger and insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw through all three loops on hook
  • Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, wrap yarn around hook and hold in place with thumb or finger and insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice
  • fpsc/fptr – like normal sc,or tr, but instead of inserting hook at the top of indicated stitch, insert it from front to back around the post of stitch

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my, as yet unblocked, version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here). It’s annoying that my camera sometimes seems to insist that the purple yarn I’m using is blue!

I was super excited to see how this unique block would look in my colours and I really love how it’s turned out.  I did have to add a row of htr/hdc to mine as I crocheted quite tightly but it was a perfect 12 inches once I’d added those.

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on 28th or 29th October.

Pattern Release: Daisy Chain Flourish Blanket

I’m proud to introduce my next blanket; it’s been a work in progress for awhile now as it’s most certainly the most ambitious project size wise I have ever designed as I have included details how to make the blanket from bassinet to king sized in three different weight yarns (4 ply, 8 ply and 10 ply) phew!  

This is my Daisy Chain Flourish Blanket…

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Worked in 4ply cotton as shown this vintage style blanket has the makings of a family heirloom. Or make it in bright soft baby double knit or aran for a delightful summer blanket for baby. Worked in strong bold colours a king-sized blanket would be a statement piece in any room.

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There are many options for how you could arrange colours on this blanket. Use a darker colour as an outline for a stained glass window effect combined with a bright or muted palette or try contrasting colours on different rows.

The motifs work up quickly with simple stitches that make it the perfect pattern for advanced beginners looking to expand their crochet techniques.

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Click here to add the Daisy Chain Flourish to your Favourites and Ravelry Queue. 

AND to celebrate the release of the pattern I’m  a 40% discount on Ravelry for a week (no coupon needed) so grab yourself a copy quick!

Happy Hooking!

http://keepcalmandcrochetonuk.com/

KCACO-UK CAL 2015 – Block 10

They say that variety is the spice of life! Applied to crochet I think that means we should try lots of different things because that keeps life interesting!  So this next block has just the perfect name for a CAL such as this one which is ALL about variety and it introduces us to a new stitch; popcorn stitch (which are the puffy ones in the picture below).

This square is free (and has been since February 2012) on the My Blue Angels blogspot.

Although we are on block 10 there is still plenty of time to catch up – the full schedule and details about the CAL can be found here.

Click on the link in the title below to go straight to the pattern or add it to your Ravelry queue here.

Embracing Variety by Aurora Suominen

Notes:

  • Hook: 5 mm (US Size H)
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: I would suggest at least two
  • Pattern uses American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/ 

My Version:

Ta dah!! This is my version of this square using my colour palette (I blogged about this here). I was really excited about trying out all my colours on this square and love how it turned out; the popcorn stitch is definitely one of my favourite stitches.

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Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on May 27th (or 28th)

Butterfly Garden Afghan – Ta dah moment!

So I did promise to show you a photo of the afghan I made for my Great Aunts 90th birthday didn’t I.  I had decided to make her a lapghan made up from 12 inch squares as I have never made a blanket with squares that big before (the CAL doesn’t count as it’s not finished yet!).

I knew I wanted a pattern with a fairly repetitive rhythm that I could work on in an evening whilst watching TV but something that wasn’t compromised on the prettiness. I have loads of crochet books so I had a look on my shelf and picked a block from The Granny Square Book by Margaret Hubert called ‘Butterfly Garden’.  My husband brought me this book a couple of Christmas’s ago and I have made a few of the blocks in it for different things, its a great book.  

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I picked five colours to make my blanket and for the yarn I decided on Stylecraft Special Aran which is a 100% acrylic yarn in 100g balls.  The colours I chose are Cream, Camel, Gold, Copper and Dark Brown and  I must confess I adapted the pattern slightly to suit myself just because I wanted to get in my colour repeats!   

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I love Stylecraft yarn, it’s definitely one of my go to yarns. The Aran in particular is chunky, smooth  and squidgy.  Its lovely to work with as it comes in a wide range of colours, it’s not too expensive when making a large blanket in multiple colours and it doesn’t split when you are working with it. I used about 10 or so balls in total to make my 3 x 4 square blanket only because of the multiple colours and I used some colours more than others (a lot more brown for joining and the edging).

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The blanket seemed so much bigger in real life than I’d imagined it would be and it certainly kept me nice and cosy in an evening as I was hooking it up – I quite missed it when it was gone. 

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I joined my squares using the flat braid join and the edging was from another book from my shelf called Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman (another fab Christmas gift from my husband from a different year – he knows what I like bless him!).

And so this is my final tah dah moment! The British weather was so obliging when I did my photo shoot providing me with a brilliant blue sky which made the blanket colours really pop.  

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And my Aunt was thrilled with the blanket which is all I could have asked for! 

 

Amazing Grapghan Prize

So the postman brought us a exciting package today all the way from Maine, USA!!! It was my prize from a competition I had the good fortune to win run by the most fabulous Open Skye Creations who, almost other wonderful crafted creations does the most wonderful graphghans.

https://www.facebook.com/openskyecreations

My prize was a custom made graphghan which I decided I wanted to gift to my daughter. As she has an unusual name I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to have something personalised especially for her.  April, the friendly owner and guru of all things graphghan, and I chatted about different options and finally settled on a simple cat design (one of Little G’s favourite animals) for the blanket in plain colours (so it would match anywhere) and of course with her name on top (in her favourite colour)! It’s an amazing blanket and Little G absolutely loves it and her ‘special kitty blanket’ is getting lots of use for downtime snuggling on the sofa and for playing hide and seek!  

Keep Calm and Crochet On UK

HodgePodge Crochet did a blog spotlight on how April makes the graphghans but as a generally nosy person I wanted to know more!  So I thought I would ask her a few questions!

Heather: Why are you called Open Skye Creations?

April: April in Latin means ‘to open’ and the reason I started my business is because a good friend of mine named Skye  encouraged me to so. Hence ‘Open’ and ‘Skye’. But then I knew I wasn’t just going to crochet, I do all sorts of crafts, so to be versatile I went with creations!

Heather: I know you as a graphghan expert but how did you get into making graphghans?

April: I remember when I was seven, my childhood wasn’t great – but my great grandma was there for me and she taught me how to crochet to handle it all. She was the first person I ever saw making a graphghan. She used old school graphing paper and was making an ocean scene with a dolphin for a little girl. I immediately wanted to have my own. To which she replied – not until you learn the basics. It took me four years! Four years of learning how to crochet before I was allowed to try to make a graphghan – and when I did try to make one, it was terrible! I never finished it and I gave up in frustration. Then when I was a senior in high school I tried again. It worked! And I was hooked. But I wasn’t savvy enough to take pictures or post them on facebook. That happened after my son was born and I had nothing to do but play with him and crochet all day! So I guess you could say that I’ve always loved graphghans.

http://www.openskyecreations.com/

Heather: I just look at a graphghan and think it would take a hundred years for me to make something like that – how long does it take you on average to make a small graphghan blanket?

April: To put it simply on a graph that is 100 stitches wide, I can do a row every 2-3 minutes (with a bunch of colour changes). I average about 20 rows an hour and can finish a blanket in one sitting if I have nothing else going on. Unfortunately we always have stuff going on! Even so I can finish a blanket within a week.

Heather: Where do you get your inspirations from for your graphghans?  Or is usually through customer requests that the ‘image’ is formed?

April: I stalk people! In a nice way! Take the graphghan that you have. I take a mix of what I know you want and then I add some flare. I make it unique so that even others that have the same graph would have something completely unique. To find out what they like I ask questions that are inappropriate or intrusive for a stranger to ask but I do it. It gives me a sense of who the blanket it for – and it works! I love getting to do what I do. Every graphghan I make has a little bit of skill and a whole lot of love. When I’m crocheting I only think good thoughts, putting hopes and positive thoughts in the front of my mind because I believe in karma. I believe that what you put out into the world comes back to you. And I only want good things out there! 

Heather: Thank you so much for answering my questions!  What’s the best advice you can offer someone that wants to try a graphghan?

April: The best advice I could possibly give someone who wants to make a graphghan is to not give up. Seriously- it doesn’t matter if it takes you a year to finish your first one just have a go! And if you need help I make myself available to anyone wanting to learn; you can send me an email, facebook message, fill out the contact form on my website, snail mail me or whatever. I am open to answering any question – and there are NO stupid questions when it comes to crochet!!

http://www.openskyecreations.com/

It was great to learn more about April and Open Skye Creations and if you want to have a go at graphghan’s then check out Open Skye Creations website where there are lots of free graphs to try!