KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 9


Group-Banner

Time for part 9! Have you got your hooks at the ready!?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated into Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Wish-Upon-A-Star

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL block is brought to you with the dulcet tones of Louis Armstrong singing ‘Wish Upon a Star’  (recorded 1968).  I just LOVE his smooth and velvety voice! Makes me want to be sitting in a comfy chair, drinking tea with a hook and yarn in my hand…so with out further ado, lets get on to our next CAL block.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2.gif

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

COMING SOON!

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 9 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 9 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part9

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

TUT01

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

TUT07

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10a

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 18th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 8


Group-Banner

Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 8 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready? 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Bubble-Gum-Pop-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square 

This weeks CAL square is inspired by the Bubblegum pop era which ran from around 1967 to 1972, just around the time everyone was being groovy!  So how about another fun song to listen to whilst you hook…just click here, apologies in advance if it gets stuck in your head but my daughter has been loving dancing round to it!  

With a mixture of dots and popcorns this granny square design links back to pieces we have already made in the CAL.  As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 8: Bubble Gum Pop 10 inch Granny Square (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Four colours used for this block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART8

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 8 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 8 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part8

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (12 tr/dc + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the next corner, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (8 dc/sc + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,  in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc, *in next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], in next ch 3 sp make 3 tr/dc* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (36 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, *ch 3, dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts, ch 3* repeat from * to * to next ch 3 sp, ** work dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the ch 3 corner sp, ch 3, then dc/sc in the space between each set of 3 tr/dc sts to the next ch 3 sp corner** repeat from ** to ** to end, sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends (16 dc/sc + 16 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 * repeat from * to * to the next corner, **in corner ch 3 sp work  3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, then work 3 tr/dc in each ch 3 sp to next corner ** repeat ** to ** end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (60 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (24 dc/sc, 24 x ch 3 sps)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 5 (84 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT07

Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN C in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 21 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (92 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 23 sts, then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * three more times, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (100 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT09

Rnd 10: Working in the BLO for all sts apart from in the ch 3 corner sps; join YARN D in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, *1 tr/dc in the next 25 sts, then work 1 tr/dc,  ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp *, repeat from * to * three more more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp  (108 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 11:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, PC in the next* repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the ch 3 corner sp * repeat from * to * around, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (116 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Ch 6 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 3), 1 tr/dc in the same sp, then work *1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, then work 1 tr/ ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the next corner sp, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (124 tr/dc, 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 4th May 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 7


Group-Banner

Time for part 7 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Part 7: Half and Half Granny Square:

The British halfpenny (½p) coin was introduced in February 1971 and although I was born in the late 70’s I still remember going to the local corner shop for ½ penny chews as a youngster!  To celebrate all half things part 7 is a half and half twist on the classic granny square.  

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

02-Banner

Written Pattern:

skill3

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified
  • Post = refers to either the tr/dc or ch 4 on the end of each rnd (used in the joining as you go section only).

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: The blocks are made up from two half granny squares (triangles), you can either make 20 triangles and join together to make 10 half and half blocks OR you can join each triangle half as you go, details below.
  • Note 2: The Ch 4 at the beginning of each round counts as 1 tr/dc + ch 1
  • Note 3: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends and join your triangles together so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT+logo

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

Apologies in advance for my rather wonky looking square! For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART7.jpg

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 7 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking.jpg

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 7 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part7

Photo Tutorial:

Half and Half Granny Square (Make 10):

Rnd 1: With YARN A, either ch 4 and sl st to form a ring OR start with a magic (adjustable ring). Ch 4, then work 3 tr/dc, 3 ch, 3 tr/dc, 1 ch, 1 tr /dc into the ring, turn (8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-01

Rnd 2:  Ch 4, then in next ch 1 sp work 3 tr/dc, in the next ch 3 sp work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc], work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-02

Rnd 3:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-03

Rnd 4:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-05

Rnd 5:  Ch 4, * work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1 then 1 tr/dc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

This makes 1 half granny triangle; see note 1 for options from this point or continue onto part 2 to join as you go.

Joining as you go part 2:

Rnd 6: Have your granny triangle right side facing and with the longest edge facing upwards, you will start off working from right to left.  With YARN B, sl st to the top of the last 1 tr/dc of rnd 1, then work [1 tr/dc, ch 1, 3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc, ch 1, 1 tr/dc] in the ch 4 or magic (adjustable) ring that you started with, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4 to join ( 8 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT+logo

Rnd 7:  Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 2, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 2 to join (14 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-06

Rnd 8: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 3, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next sp, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 3 to join (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-07

Rnd 9: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 4, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 2 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 4 to join (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

TUT-08

Rnd 10: Ch 3, sl st around the end post of rnd 5, turn, ch 1, work 3 tr/dc in the next ch 1 sp, then work 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, work [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the 3 ch sp, 3 tr/dc in the next 3 sps, then work 3 tr/dc in the last ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 tr/dc in the top of the last tr/dc of previous rnd, sl st around the last post of rnd 5 to join, finish off and weave in ends (32 sts + 1 x 3 ch sp + 2 x 1 ch sp)

04

And that’s it! Part 7 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 8 to be released on 20th April 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 6


Group-Banner

Time for part 6 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part6-hebrew

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Bargello Crochet is a term given to crochet patterns inspired by traditional Bargello (sometimes called ‘Florentine’) Needlework designs. This sort of design became popular in the 1970’s as a part of the New Age Movement which is why it’s perfect to include in our groovyghan (plus I’ve always wanted to have a go at it!).

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

02

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Row width = 30 inches / 76.2 cm
  • Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Row Start / Row End Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.
  • Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: The ch 3 at the start and end of each bargello cluster does not count as a stitch in any part of the pattern; rows should be worked into sl sts, htr/hdc or tr/dc sts only.

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc, sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row (wrong side facing) in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

Row 8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART6

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

As Part 6 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 6 directly to parts 1-5 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part6

Photo Tutorial: Florentine Bargello Stripes

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-01

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

TUT-02

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc,

TUT-03

sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3,

TUT-04

1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts

TUT-05

* repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

TUT-06

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-07

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

TUT-08

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT-09

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

TUT-10

Row 8: Repeat row 5

TUT-11

Row 9: Repeat row 3

TUT-12

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

TUT-13

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

TUT-14

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! Part 6 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 7 to be released on 6th April 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Parts 1-5 inspiration


So I just had to share some of the Part 1-5’s of my Groovyghan CAL people have been sharing in the Facebook group because they are all just so awesome!  

Sooooo much inspiration (and envy) from these gorgeous colour schemes!  Just feast your eyes on the beauty of this little selection that I kindly had permission to share with you.

Laura-SK

Hooked by Laura S K

Vicki

Hooked by Vicki

Nellie

Hooked by Nellie

Ulrika

Hooked by Ulrika

Deb

Hooked by Deb

Kaffy

Hooked by Kaffy

Holly

Hooked by Holly

Debbie

Hooked by Debbie

Kimberlie

Hooked by Kimberlie

Aren’t they great!  Part 6 of the CAL coming tomorrow!

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 5


Group-Banner

Time for part 5 of the Groovyghan CAL, hope you are enjoying it so far! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-par5-hebrew

Part 5: Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square 

I love how little squares look when joined up together but I haven’t got the perseverance to make a whole blanket out of wee blocks so I thought I’d incorporate just a few into this design instead.  Named and inspired by the famous 1960’s pop art artist Roy Lichtenstein we are going to use dots and solid bold colours to add interest to our finished Groovyghan.

These little squares are great stash-busters and great little projects to take out and about to then join together later! A simple little design with a subtle pattern which looks great either made in one colour or joined together in multiple colours.

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03

Written Pattern:

skill2

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 16 yds (15 m / 5 g) / Total squares 128 yds (120 m / 80 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 2.5 x 2.5 inches / 6.4 x 6.4 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Working in the back loop: When working in the BLO I like to work through both the back loop and the 3rd loop; it makes the stitch more sturdy and the subtle texture on the square neater.BLO
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Note: All stitches on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc), then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 3], *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART5

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

I blocked my finished panels once I had joined them together;

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your squares together into two sets of 2 x 4 panels; eight squares in total on each panel (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through each square and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 9 sts in total joined.

02

Using the same joining methods as the rest of the pieces you can now join all of your pieces together ready for Part 6!

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part5

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:  

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

The finished panel sizes (2 x eight block panels) in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 10 inches /12.7 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4).  

Blocking

Photo Tutorial:

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

1. Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring

TUT-01

2. ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st),

TUT-02

3.  then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

TUT-03

 4. Note: All stitches  on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc),

TUT-04

5. then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in to the same st as the beginning ch 3],

TUT-05

6. *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts,

TUT-06

7. [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next *

TUT-07

8. repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

04

And that’s it! Part 5 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 6 to be released on 23rd March 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 4


Group-Banner

Time for part 4 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part4-hebrew

Part 4:  Circle Your Granny – 10 inch block:

I think I’ve mentioned that I’m a big fan of granny squares, but one thing that I’d always wanted to have a go at was a circular granny block and the groovyghan provided the perfect excuse to design one.  I also wanted to use similar stitches so that the design of Part 4 would complement Part 1 nicely.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01+Logo

Written Pattern:

skill2.gif

Part 4: Circle Your Granny – 10 inch block:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • tr/dc2tog  = UK Treble / US 2 double Crochet together
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • Cl = 3 x UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr2tog/dc2tog): Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops left on hook. 
  • Cluster (Cl) = Work 3 tr/dc to make 1 cluster

Pattern:

Note 1: Four colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C and D.

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * tr/dc2tog, ch 2* repeat from * to * five more times, join to the top of the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (6 x tr/dc2tog + 6 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 2: Join YARN B to any ch 2 sp, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * [tr/dc2tog, ch 3, tr/dc2tog] in the ch 2 sp of rnd 1 * repeat from * to * five more times, join to the top of the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (12 x tr/dc2tog + 6 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp and in-between each tr/dctog around, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (12 Cls)

Rnd 4: Join YARN A in-between any Cl’s of rnd 3, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * [tr/dc2tog, ch 3, tr/dc2tog] in-between the Cl’s * repeat from * to * eleven times, join to the top of the the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 x tr/dc2tog + 12 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp and in-between each tr/dc2tog around, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (24 Cls)

Rnd 6: Join YARN C in-between any Cl’s of rnd 5, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same sp, work 1 Cl in-between each Cl of rnd 5, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (24 Cls)

Rnd 7: Join YARN A in-between any Cl’s of rnd 6, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next Cl of previous rnd, ch 3 * repeat from * to * 23 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 dc/sc + 24 ch 3 sps)

Rnd 8: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (84 sts)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 5 sets of sts from the previous rnd, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in-between the next 6 sets of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in-between the Cl from the previous rnd and in-between the next 6 Cls from the previous rnd, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in-between the next Cls from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (108 sts)

Rnd 11: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp,  ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * then working in the BLO (except in any ch 3 sps), 1 tr/dc in the next 27 sts, [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 27 sts, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (116 sts)

Rnd 12: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp,  ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * then working in the BLO (except in any ch 3 sps), 1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (124 sts)

02

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART4

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join part 4 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part4.png

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * tr/dc2tog, ch 2* repeat from * to * five more times, join to the top of the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (6 x tr/dc2tog + 6 x ch 2 sps)

TUT01

Rnd 2: Join YARN B to any ch 2 sp, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * [tr/dc2tog, ch 3, tr/dc2tog] in the ch 2 sp of rnd 1 * repeat from * to * five more times, join to the top of the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (12 x tr/dc2tog + 6 x ch 3 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp and in-between each tr/dctog around, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (12 Cls)

TUT03

Rnd 4: Join YARN A in-between any Cl’s of rnd 3, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st) * [tr/dc2tog, ch 3, tr/dc2tog] in-between the Cl’s * repeat from * to * eleven times, join to the top of the the first tr/dc2tog to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 x tr/dc2tog + 12 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp and in-between each tr/dc2tog around, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (24 Cls)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Join YARN C in-between any Cl’s of rnd 5, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same sp, work 1 Cl in-between each Cl of rnd 5, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (24 Cls)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Join YARN A in-between any Cl’s of rnd 6, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next Cl of previous rnd, ch 3 * repeat from * to * 23 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 dc/sc + 24 ch 3 sps)

TUT07

Rnd 8: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 1 Cl in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (84 sts)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 5 sets of sts from the previous rnd, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in-between the next 6 sets of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts)

TUT09

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 Cl in-between the Cl from the previous rnd and in-between the next 6 Cls from the previous rnd, [Cl, ch 3, Cl] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 1 Cl in-between the next Cls from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (108 sts)

TUT10

Rnd 11: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp,  ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * then working in the BLO (except in any ch 3 sps), 1 tr/dc in the next 27 sts, [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 27 sts, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (116 sts)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp,  ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * then working in the BLO (except in any ch 3 sps), 1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 29 sts, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (124 sts)

TUT12

And that’s it! Part 4 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 5 to be released on 9th March 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 3


Group-Banner

Time for part 3 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part3-HEBREW

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

This weeks part has a 1960’s retro feel to it by bringing in some groovy waves!  Who doesn’t love waves / ripples! I know I don’t use them often enough; they just look so cool when they are made!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • tr/dc2tog  = UK Treble / US 2 double Crochet together
  • tr/dc3tog = UK Treble / US 3 double Crochet together
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • dtr/tr2tog  = UK Double Treble / US 2 Treble Crochet together
  • dtr/tr3tog = UK Double Treble / US 3 Treble Crochet together

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr2tog/dc2tog): Yarn over insert your hook in indicated st and pull up a loop, yarn over. pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), insert your crochet hook into the next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US 3 Double Crochet together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all 4 loops left on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble Crochet (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US 2 Treble Crochet together (dtr/tr2tog): * Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook into next st, Yarn over, pull up a loop, (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice, repeat from * to * once more, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US 3 Treble Crochet together (dtr/tr3tog): * Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook into next st, Yarn over, pull up a loop, (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice, repeat from * two more times, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next st, * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * four times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining st, finish off YARN A, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 3: Join YARN B to first st, Ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc3tog over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * three times, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 3, finish off YARN B, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

Row 5: Join YARN C to first st, Ch 4 (counts as a dtr/tr), dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr3tog over the next 3 sts, * repeat from * to *  three times, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the remaining st, turn (33 sts) 

Row 6: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, finish off YARN C, weave in any ends, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Join YARN A to first st, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8: Repeat row 2

Rows 9 – 10: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12-13: Repeat row 6-7

Row 14: Repeat row 2

Row 15-16: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 17:  Repeat row 5

Row 18-19: Repeat row 6-7

Row 20: Repeat row 2

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Note 2: You might want to measure your block for the last row and change it to htr/hdc rather than tr/dc if you reach 10 inches.

Row 22: Repeat row 6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the right and left side of your work 33 times.  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

02=Logo.jpg

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART3

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 3 directly to part 1 and part 2 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part3

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

FDC-03

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Part 3: On the Groovy Waves – 10 inch block  (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 1: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

TUT02A

Row 2:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next st, * 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next, 3 dtr/tr in the next st, 

TUT02

1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st *

TUT03

repeat from * to * four times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining st, finish off YARN A, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT04

Row 3: Join YARN B to first st, Ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st,

TUT05

1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc3tog over the next 3 sts *

TUT06

repeat from * to * three times, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, tr/dc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the last st, turn (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT07

Row 4: Repeat row 3, finish off YARN B, weave in any ends (5 waves / 43 sts)

TUT08

Row 5: Join YARN C to first st, Ch 4 (counts as a dtr/tr), dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts,

TUT09

* 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st,

TUT10

1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr3tog over the next 3 sts, *

TUT11

repeat from * to *  three times, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, dtr/tr2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the remaining st, turn (33 sts) 

TUT12

Row 6: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, finish off YARN C, weave in any ends, turn (33 sts)

TUT13

Row 7: Join YARN A to first st, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st)  1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 2 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

TUT14

 

TUT16

Row 8: Repeat row 2

Rows 9 – 10: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12-13: Repeat row 6-7

Row 14: Repeat row 2

Row 15-16: Repeat row 3-4

Rows 17:  Repeat row 5

Row 18-19: Repeat row 6-7

Row 20: Repeat row 2

Row 21: Repeat row 5

Note 2: You might want to measure your block for the last row and change it to htr/hdc rather than tr/dc if you reach 10 inches.

Row 22: Repeat row 6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the right and left side of your work 33 times.  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

And that’s it! Part 3 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 4 to be released on 24th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 2


Group-Banner

Okay two weeks have soon gone by which means it’s time for part 2 of the CAL!!!! Have you got your hooks ready?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part2-HEBREW

Part 2: Hot-butter Popcorn Panel 

This weeks part is inspired by the extremely fun 1970’s song Popcorn by Hotbutter – you can have fun listening to it whilst you hook!  I love how a Popcorn stitch looks and how much texture Popcorn’s can add to a crochet project so I knew I wanted to add some into the pattern somewhere.  Almost by accident I discovered that a backwards (wrong side facing) Popcorn can actually look, in some respects, nicer than a forwards (right side facing) one – so I decided to throw that into the works as well! As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

One thing I quickly discovered when designing the Groovyghan was that size and stitches all have to match up somehow to join each component together. I had a devil of a time trying to get my panels to fit at first until I decided to use Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC) for the first row; that gave the panels that little bit of stretch I was looking for to join everything together nicely.  We will be using FDC/FSC with all the panels of the CAL – but don’t worry if you’ve never done it before I’ve added a photo tutorial below just for this stitch to explain how it works.

01

Written Pattern:

skill3

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  62.5 yds (25 g / 75 m) Total panel 125 yds ( 50 g / 150 m)
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • cc = change colour
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC = Popcorn

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C but you could make the panel in a single colour if you don’t fancy adding the colour changes; just ignore the bits where I say cc to a different yarn.
  • Note 2: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern. When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured  yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate  long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,  * 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC * repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

Chart:

4187486_orig(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART2

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 2 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

You can either join parts 2 directly to part 1 now (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details), or wait until you have completed parts 3, 4 and 5 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part2

Photo Tutorial:

Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  

Start with a slip knot on your hook,

FDC-01

ch 2,

FDC-02

* insert hook in 2nd ch from hook,

DSC07272

pull up a loop,

FDC-04

yarn over, pull through 1 loop,

FDC-05

yarn over, and pull through 2 loops *

FDC-061 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at the bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.

Hot-butter Popcorn Panel (Make 2):

Foundation Row:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

PP-01

Row 1: RS Facing  – ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-02

Row 2: WS Facing – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st, 1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC,

PP-03

* 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, cc to YARN B on the last st,

PP-04

1 PC in the next (pushing the PC to the RS), cc to YARN A to complete the PC

PP-05

* repeat from * to * five times, 1 tr/dc in the last 4 sts, turn, finish off YARN B and weave in any ends (33sts)

PP-06

Row 3: RS Facing  – ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-07

Row 4: Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

PP-08

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-09

Row 6: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 dc/sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-11

Row 7: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (33 sts)

PP-12

Row 8 : Repeat row 2 (using YARN C instead of YARN B on the cc)

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: Repeat row 2 (using YARN B instead of YARN C on the cc)

Row 11: Repeat row 5, finish off and weave in any ends.

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 17 times (so you have 17 sts on each end).  This not only neaten’s your finished panel but will help when joining the ‘parts’ of our groovyghan together.

PP-13

And that’s it! Part 2 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 3 to be released on 10th February 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 1


Group-Banner

Yay let’s get started with Part 1 of the CAL shall we!!!! I’m so excited that so many of you have decided to join in the CAL with me this year!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part1-HEBREW

Part 1: Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square 

To me there is nothing more elegant than the traditional granny square – it’s iconic for a reason! It’s probably the first thing I was taught how to make and I still love how it looks.  The granny square was also huge in the 1960’s-1970’s and as much of my groovyghan design is inspired by that period I knew I had to include the granny square in our blanket. I completely didn’t invent this pattern but this is my twist on the timeless classic.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn left over from other projects and the basic granny square motif does not require advanced skills to execute – a perfect starting point to ease us in gently to our groovyghan!  

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern and a photo tutorial of how I have worked this pattern (see below).

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • 3tr/dc = 1 Cluster
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C
  • Note 1: I used the same colour for rnd 3 on all of my granny squares to help with overall coordination – but worked different inners / outers to keep it groovy!
  • Note 2: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that I don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN C and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 1 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:   

KCACOUK CAL 2016 - Part 1

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 1 finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm (your block maybe slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Blocking

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 1 (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Joining

Photo Tutorial:

Tri-Tonal Traditional Granny Square (Make 10):

1. Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring

01-TUT

2. Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)

02-TUT

3. 2 tr/dc into the ring,

03-TUT

 4. ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring,

05-TUT

5. ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,

06-TUT

6. then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

7. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

08-TUT

8. * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made),

09-TUT

9. repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

10. Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,

11-TUT

11.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

12-TUT

12. Rnd 4: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made),

13-TUT

13. * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,

14-TUT

14.  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

15-TUT

15. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp (second corner made), * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

16-TUT

And that’s it! Part 1 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 2 to be released on 27th January 2016.