KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those.  I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that! 

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part16.png

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT04

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

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It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end! 

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can! 

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg:  Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.  

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design.   I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

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Chart:

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For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part15.png

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.

Amineko Crocheted Cat 🐱 | Pattern Review

Disclaimer: This pattern is one I have purchased (or used) for my own benefit.  I have not been financially compensated by the designer to write this review. All opinions expressed are my own and based on my own experiences of using the book / pattern.

If you like crochet and amigurumi then chances are that you have come across this pattern at some point and may even have made one of these fabulous little kitties! 

I have a lovely Japanese sister-in-law so I did know that ‘neko‘ means cat in Japanese and an Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small cute stuffed animals… so ‘Amineko’ is a shortened version for amigurumi cat and they don’t come much cuter than this little fellow I think.

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I’ve had this pattern saved for ages! But it wasn’t until my daughters school sent out the request for tombola items for their summer fete that I finally decided I had to give it a go.

So without further ado here is my finished kitty…

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He can sit, kneel, and just chill out…

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I love how pose-able these little cats are…

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And then it was time for him to go off to the tombola…

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The pattern for Amineko is a free on Ravelry: Amineko Crocheted Cat by Nekoyama.

I used the diagram on the linked website to create my kitty and found that it was simple enough to follow though the mouth section gave me pause – until I realised it’s worked as a solid flattened oval that you turn on it’s side.

I would say that it’s an easy enough pattern for beginners to have a go at as you only use one stitch; UK double crochet / US single crochet. For this reason it doesn’t take too long to make up a cat, I think I had mine finished within a few evenings.

I made my kitty using Stylecraft Special Double Knit (8ply yarn) in Denim and White rather than fingering (4ply yarn) using a 3.75mm / US size F hook. I was still surprised that my cat seemed to come out quite large in the end – I would say at least 8 inches (20.3cm) sitting down. That said you can easily make up a kitty with one ball of yarn or I think a cat would look equally fun with different colour head, body, arms and legs which makes the pattern a great little stash buster for oddments.

Such a fun pattern to make and I loved how my Amineko turned out in the end – I’m sure I will make more of these cats in the future.

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 14

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It’s time for part 14 of our groovyghan folks! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Checkmate-10-inch-Square-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block:

I’m not going to lie there is potentially a few ends to weave in with this next block but I just love how the overall look is when it’s finished and hope you will too.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 14: Checkmate 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • STR/SDC = Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Spike UK treble / Spike UK double crochet (STR/SDC): Work tr/dc over ch-sp by inserting hook into top of the next row below (or the foundation chain)
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

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Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Chart

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 14 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 14 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 13 & 15 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part14

Photo Tutorial:

As the pattern is made up of repeats the photo tutorial shows the first 5 rows only…

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When changing colours you can either; draw new colour through the last 2 loops on the hook to complete the last stitch and then turn and carry the spare yarn up the side of your work, or you can cut and join colours as needed.

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), tr/dc in the next 2 sts, * ch 3, miss the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT02.jpg

Row 3:  New colour; *Ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (33 sts)

TUT03.jpg

Row 4:  New colour; Ch 3 (counts as first STR/SDC) work 2 STR/SDC over the next 2 sts * ch 3, miss next 3 sts, work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

TUT04.jpg

Row 5 – 37: Repeat rows 3 and 4 ending on a row 4 repeat.  Note:  As you reach the later rows of your work please measure as you go along, depending on how loosely / tightly you crochet.  When you reach 9.5 inches / 24.13 cm then start row 38.

TUT05.jpg

Row 38: New colour; Ch 1 ,dc/sc in the same st as the ch1, dc/sc in the next 2 sts, * work STR/SDC over the next 3 sts, then 3 dc/sc in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until end (33 sts)

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02+Logo.jpg

And that’s it! Part 14 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 15 to be released on 27 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 13

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It’s 7pm ish in the UK, it’s Wednesday, which must mean it’s time for part 13 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Granny-likes-Popcorn-Square-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 13: Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block:

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny likes Popcorn 10 inch block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished block size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • sp= space
  • sl st= slip stitch
  • ch(s)= chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
  • PC= Popcorn
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn (PC): Work 5 tr/dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st tr/dc (1st tr/dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th tr/dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

01+Text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

DSC09037.JPG

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 10 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 13 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 9 & 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part13.png

Photo Tutorial:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • Note 2: When working your PC sts, don’t work them too tightly or you may find your work bunches up.
  • Note 3: Don’t worry if your PC rows look a bit wavy as you are working them; they should smooth right out when you add the next row.  

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

07-TUT

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (next corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

10-TUT

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  1 PC in the next sp (between the tr/dc clusters of the previous round), [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice, 1 PC in the next sp), sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (24 sts + 4 PC sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 4: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp,  sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next sp, 3tr/dc into the next sp [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 2 sps, 3tr/dc into the next sp, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 7: Join YARN C to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 4 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (84 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 6 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 5 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (96 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps between the clusters of the previous round,  1 PC into the next 3 sps, 3tr/dc into the next 2 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (108 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT07.jpg

Rnd 10: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters and PCs of the previous round, 3 tr/dc into the next 7 sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, 3 tr/dc into the next 8 sps, sl st to top of the beginning ch 3 to join,  then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner  (120 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT08.jpg

And that’s it! Part 13 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 14 to be released on 13 July 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 11

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Ooo our first block in a brand new month! Part 11 is inspired by the Royal Air Force roundel, a mod symbol of the swinging 60’s. 

For those of you that are new to the groovyghan CAL there is still plenty of time to join in the fun.  You can find the full schedule with links to each part we have made so far; here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here. There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Mod-Spot-5-inch-Square-Hebrew-final (2)

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 11: Mod-Spot 5 inch block (make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern Guidance: 

Surface crochet:  Start by attaching a slip knot to the back of the crochet area then from the front of the work, insert your hook into the stitch nearby and start working chain stitches on the surface of your crocheted area, continue to work in this way according to the design.

Pattern:

  • I used four colours for the square, refered to in this pattern as YARN A, B, C and D

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then  2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st,  [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps). 

Finishing:  Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle. 

01+Text

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART11

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 11 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part11

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring,

TUT01.jpg

ch 2 (does not count as a st, then work 12 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary (12 sts)

TUT02

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as first tr/dc),1 tr/dc into the same st as beginning ch 3, then  2 tr/dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts)

TUT03

Rnd 3: Attach YARN B to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 2 tr/dc in next, * 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next, * repeat from * to * until end sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (36 sts)

TUT04

Rnd 4: Attach YARN C to any st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc); 1 tr/dc in next st, 2 tr/dc in next,* 1 tr/dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr/dc in next,* repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (48 sts)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 5: Attach YARN D to any st, ch 4 (counts as first dtr/tr); then work 1 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the same st as beginning ch 4 (first corner made), * 1 dtr/tr in next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc/sc in next 3 sts, 1 htr/hdc in next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in next st, 1 dtr/tr in next st,  [2 dtr/tr, ch 3, 2 dtr/tr in the next st] * repeat from * to * until end, , sl st to top of beginning ch 4 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps). 

TUT06.jpg

Finishing:  Using YARN C surface crochet around the outside edge of rnd 4 to neaten the outer circle. 

TUT07

And that’s it! Part 11 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 12 to be released on 15 June 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 10

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Well here we are at part 10, released a little earlier than scheduled (I didn’t think you would mind) as I have a family matter I have to deal with this week which meant I couldn’t bank on getting this blog post out to the world on Wednesday.

The exciting thing about part 10 is that means you’ve pretty much completed over half of the finished blanket.  I do hope you are enjoying the crochet journey so far!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Go-go-Herringbone-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL square is not the grooviest of all the pieces we are going to make but it’s an integral part of bringing the whole design together.  Inspired by go-go dancers of the 1960’s this block uses a standard stitch…but with a twist!  The overall effect is a lightly textured fabric with a subtle zig-zag effect that is very pleasing!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • HBhtr/HBhdc  = Herringbone UK half treble / Herringbone US half double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Herringbone Half Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc): Your stitch should slant to the left; when worked in rows it creates a herringbone effect. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • The ch 1 after a turn does not count as a st

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

02

Chart:

4187486_orig

(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART10

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your blocks as per the CAL schematic (details below) for PART 10 by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; I chose to add my stripes vertically but choose the way you prefer for your blanket.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part10

Photo Tutorial:

Herringbone Half Double Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc):

Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook),

HBhdc01

yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

HBhdc02

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT01

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT02

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

TUT03

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT04

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT05

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

TUT06.jpg

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

03

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

And that’s it! Part 10 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 11 to be released on 1st June 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 6

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Time for part 6 of our groovyghan! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part6-hebrew

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Bargello Crochet is a term given to crochet patterns inspired by traditional Bargello (sometimes called ‘Florentine’) Needlework designs. This sort of design became popular in the 1970’s as a part of the New Age Movement which is why it’s perfect to include in our groovyghan (plus I’ve always wanted to have a go at it!).

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

02

Written Pattern:

skill2

Part 6: Florentine Bargello Stripes:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Row width = 30 inches / 76.2 cm
  • Row height = 5 inches / 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Row Start / Row End Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.
  • Bargello Cluster = Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as the last tr/dc just made.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: The ch 3 at the start and end of each bargello cluster does not count as a stitch in any part of the pattern; rows should be worked into sl sts, htr/hdc or tr/dc sts only.

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc, sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts * repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row (wrong side facing) in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

Row 8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Repeat row 3

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART6

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

As Part 6 is in one long strip I don’t think you will have any problems with curling, however if you think your work might benefit from blocking please see the previous CAL post for more guidance.

Joining:

You can now join part 6 directly to parts 1-5 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part6

Photo Tutorial: Florentine Bargello Stripes

Row 1:  With YARN A, FDC/FSC 167 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-01

Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 htr/hdc in same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn (167 sts)

TUT-02

Row 3: Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc,

TUT-03

sl st in the next 3 sts, * ch 3,

TUT-04

1 tr/dc in the same stitch as the beginning ch 3 and the next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, sl st in the next 3 sts

TUT-05

* repeat from * to * until you reach the last 5 sts, ch 3, 1 tr/dc in the same st as beginning ch 3 and in the next 4 sts, ch 3, sl st in the same st as the last tr/dc just made, turn, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts / 2 x Start / End Bargello Clusters / 31 Bargello Clusters)

TUT-06

Row 4: Miss the ch 3 and attach YARN B to the beginning of the row in the top of the first tr/dc. Ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch 1, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sts, 1 tr/dc in the centre 2 sl sts of the previous row, * sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 centre sl sts from the previous row * repeat from * to * until the last 5 sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 5 sts, turn (167 sts)

TUT-07

Row 5: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 1 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 1 and in each st along until the end (167 sts)

TUT-08

Row 6: Repeat row 3, at the end of the row, finish off and weave in ends (167 sts)

TUT-09

Row 7: With YARN C repeat row 4

TUT-10

Row 8: Repeat row 5

TUT-11

Row 9: Repeat row 3

TUT-12

Row 10: With YARN D repeat row 4

Row 11: Repeat row 5

Row 12: Repeat row 3

TUT-13

Row 13: With YARN E repeat row 4

Row 14: Repeat row 5

Row 15: Repeat row 3

TUT-14

Row 16: With YARN A repeat row 4, finish off and weave in ends.

And that’s it! Part 6 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 7 to be released on 6th April 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 5

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Time for part 5 of the Groovyghan CAL, hope you are enjoying it so far! If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2015 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-par5-hebrew

Part 5: Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square 

I love how little squares look when joined up together but I haven’t got the perseverance to make a whole blanket out of wee blocks so I thought I’d incorporate just a few into this design instead.  Named and inspired by the famous 1960’s pop art artist Roy Lichtenstein we are going to use dots and solid bold colours to add interest to our finished Groovyghan.

These little squares are great stash-busters and great little projects to take out and about to then join together later! A simple little design with a subtle pattern which looks great either made in one colour or joined together in multiple colours.

To try to make this CAL easier for everyone I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

03

Written Pattern:

skill2

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 16 yds (15 m / 5 g) / Total squares 128 yds (120 m / 80 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 2.5 x 2.5 inches / 6.4 x 6.4 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Working in the back loop: When working in the BLO I like to work through both the back loop and the 3rd loop; it makes the stitch more sturdy and the subtle texture on the square neater.BLO
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note 1: Once you have completed each square I would suggest you weave in your ends so that you don’t have a major sewing job to do at the end of the groovyghan!

Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Note: All stitches on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc), then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in the same st as the beginning ch 3], *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

See below for details on blocking and joining your squares together to complete Part 5 of the CAL and below that a photo tutorial for the pattern.

Chart:

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART5

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

I blocked my finished panels once I had joined them together;

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your squares together into two sets of 2 x 4 panels; eight squares in total on each panel (please refer to the CAL schematic for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through each square and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 9 sts in total joined.

02

Using the same joining methods as the rest of the pieces you can now join all of your pieces together ready for Part 6!

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part5

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:  

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

The finished panel sizes (2 x eight block panels) in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 5 x 10 inches /12.7 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4).  

Blocking

Photo Tutorial:

Lichtenstein Mini Solid Square  (Make 16):

1. Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring

TUT-01

2. ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st),

TUT-02

3.  then work 16 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to top of the first tr/dc to join (16 sts)

TUT-03

 4. Note: All stitches  on Rnd 2 should be worked in the BLO apart from the first ch 3:  Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as the first tr/dc),

TUT-04

5. then work 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc in to the same st as the beginning ch 3],

TUT-05

6. *1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts,

TUT-06

7. [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc] in the next *

TUT-07

8. repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the last 3 sts, sl st to top of the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off and weave any ends (28 sts = 4 x ch 3 sps)

04

And that’s it! Part 5 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 6 to be released on 23rd March 2016.

2015 in a Nutshell | New Year Free Pattern and Discounts!

2015 has been a bit of a mixed bag for me and mine and though there have been times filled with worry and heartache there has been times of happiness too.  We have been lucky enough to enjoy some wonderful family holidays this year and there have been some really fun times with friends and family – I think when you have some periods of sadness it really does make you appreciate the good times a whole lot more!

I thought I’d do a little review of my crochet year in pictures…and I have some exciting offers which will hopefully start off YOUR 2016 in a good way; details of which you’ll find at the bottom of this post!

Looking back I’ve completed a lot of projects…so it doesn’t count that I still have works in progress to complete does it…over 40 items made, I didn’t actually realise it was that many until I started counting them up!

Project-Collage-2015

Out of all the things that I have made this year I’m most proud of my CAL blanket, not only because it’s the biggest project I’ve ever personally completed but because my gorgeous daughter loves it so much and sleeps under it every night!

CAL-Collage

This year I’ve also been busy with my pattern writing, releasing 17 new patterns into the world; 10 of which were free patterns, 2 of them I was extremely excited to have appear in Happily Hooked Magazine and 1 pattern featured in the HodgePodge Pillow Showdown!  

Pattern-Collage-2015

The one pattern I am most proud of creating this year however is one I am sadly behind with writing up. My Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds pattern, which I designed for the 2015 Deramores Blog Competition, was probably one of the most challenging things I’ve had a go at creating so far! It’s definitely a case of life just getting in the way with getting it finished but it is unquestionably one of my New Years Resolutions to get it done! 

Lucy-Collage

I have some brand new patterns already lined up for 2016 which I can’t say too much at the moment you can be sure I’ll share my elation about them with you when I can!  One of these designs of course is the 2016 CAL, which may turn out to be the 2nd most challenging thing I’ve ever designed, and which I already so excited about, from the photos that have been shared with me, about chosen yarn colours – I can’t wait to see finished results!

Finally I really wanted to celebrate another couple of other achievements…both of which have happened just recently! Over on my Facebook page I have now reached over 12,000 lovely likers and here on the blog I’ve got over 12,000 followers too!  I never in my wildest dreams believed when I started my page / blog that it would ever come as far as this! And it’s all because of YOU guys out there – so I want you to help me celebrate!  As it’s New Years Eve I’m offering 2,016 patterns completely FREE  in my Ravelry store (use coupon code: FREE2016) and after those have gone ALL of my patterns will have a 50% discount (no code required) on them until midnight (GMT) of 1 January 2016!

12000-Giveaway

Now I’m off to spend my New Years Eve, as many parents do with little ones do, with my husband, a curry, a good movie and a hook in my hand!

May your New Year be filled with health and happiness…and tons of lovely yarn!  

Happy New Year!

Love 

Heather x