Crochet Meets Reading: My Book Blanket Challenge for 2026 with new free pattern

If there’s one thing that sits right at the heart of my creative life, it’s the cosy intersection between a good book and a warm crochet blanket project. Last year I kicked off my very first Book Blanket Challenge, combining my love of reading with my passion for crochet – and what a joy that journey was! I’m still putting together the blanket for 2025, but that hasn’t stopped me from starting this years plans.

This year I’m taking things in a new direction — not just for a new blanket project, but expanding my reading horizons more intentionally. My aim for 2026 is to read books by at least 50 NEW authors – authors whose voices, stories and styles I haven’t encountered before. And just like last year, each book will be represented with crochet blocks in my book blanket!

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A flat lay of crochet squares on a wooden surface surrounded by crochet tools and a potted plant, with text promoting a free crochet pattern titled 'Readers Row Square'.

Why a Book Blanket?

For me, this project is more than a list of titles or a stack of yarn squares, it’s a creative celebration of time spent curled up in vivid worlds, learning from new voices, and connecting stories with stitch. It gives every book a place in history… and every stitch a story.

This challenge also gives purpose to my yarn stash, turning leftovers into colourful memories that mark everything I’ve read. Last years blanket caused a nice dent in the stash, but as you can imagine I have SOOOOO much more to use.

A flat lay image featuring two crocheted coasters in a colourful pattern, a wooden slice base, a book titled 'My Sister, the Serial Killer' by Oyinkan Braithwaite, a pair of scissors, and various balls of yarn in different colors.

My 2026 Plan

Here’s how I’m approaching this year’s challenge:

📚 1. New Authors, New Adventures – 50 to Discover
My core intention for 2026 is to read books by 50 different authors I haven’t read before – stretching my reading palette with fresh perspectives and styles. When I find a book by an author I’ve already read, it’s still welcome and it will be included but I’m excited to include intentionally new authors to me.

🧶 2. Two Squares for Every Book
For every book finished, I’ll crochet two blocks that reflect its cover colours. The blanket will continue to grow in colour as the stories stack up. This time however I’ll be adding the border colour as I go to make the task of joining them all together easier at the end – something I’ve learnt from not doing that last year.

📘 3. Track on Goodreads (and Here!)
Just like last year, I’ll use Goodreads to track my reading progress and link back my monthly lists here on the blog so you can follow along – I’ll also start a new Amazon book list so you can see all the 2026 books together easily in one place as I read them.

🎨 4. Yarn from the Stash
I’ll prioritise using stash yarn where I can, matching colours to book covers (as best I can stash dependent) using my trusty colour‑picker tool (https://coolors.co/image-picker) – and hopefully bust a bit more stash along the way! Last year I used all stash, though I did have to buy some more white for the borders of my squares.

📸 5. Share the Stories
At the end of each subsequent month (so January squares will be posted in February, February squares in March etc):

  • I’ll share which books I read,
  • the authors behind them,
  • my thoughts on each book,
  • and the crochet squares I’ve made inspired by each book here on the blog.

Finding new authors and new palettes in parallel – what could be better? If you want to join in too you can add your favourite book recommendations as comments here on the blog or on social media. You can also use the hashtag #KCACOUKBookCAL2026 – I can’t wait to see your book blankets grow.

Want to take on this challenge with me? The block I’ll be using is simple yet versatile, making it ideal for customisation. Here’s the pattern for you to try:

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

📚 Save Reader’s Row Square Pattern as a favourite on Ravelry 📚

Scroll down for the free version or pick up the ad-free PDF Pattern is available from my pattern platforms below.

Reader’s Row Square Pattern

A top-down view of colourful crochet squares in pink, yellow, black, and white, placed on a wooden slice surrounded by crafting tools like scissors, a crochet hook, and a candle.

Skill Level: Beginner / Easy

Size: 11cm x 11cm (4.3in x 4.3in)

Hook: 3.5mm (US size E)

Yarn Amounts (for one block):

  • 2.3g / 6.3m of YARN A
  • 2.3g / 6.3m of YARN B
  • 2.3g / 6.3m of YARN C
  • 2.3g / 6.3m of YARN D

Each square uses approx. 9.2g / 25.2m of Double Knit yarn (Light Worsted)

STITCH GUIDANCE – UK Terminology

  • Stitches (st): Stitch abbreviations st or sts stand for “stitch” or “stitches”
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over the hook from back to front and draw it through the slip knot (or previous chain) to form a new loop on the hook.
  • Chain Space (ch-sp): A chain space is an empty area, gap, or hole in the fabric created by making a specific number of chain stitches and often skipping stitches in the previous row.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Cluster (Cl): 3tr in one st
  • Post of the stitch: In crochet, the “post of a stitch” is the vertical, stem-like body of a stitch from the row below.

PATTERN NOTES

  • Gauge: 12tr = 6cm / 2.4inchs. Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical for this project.
  • [ … ] Repeat section in square brackets until specified
  • ( … ) Work all stitches in round brackets in single st or sp
A close-up of colourful crocheted granny squares arranged in a mixed pattern, featuring various shades including orange, pink, yellow, black, and teal.

PATTERN

Make 2.

PATTERN

  • The first part of this pattern is worked in rows.
  • The ch3 at the beginning of a row or round counts as the first tr.

Row 1: With YARN A; Ch19, Cl in the 5th ch from hook [miss 2ch, Cl in next st] 3 times, miss 2ch, Cl in next st, miss 1ch, 1tr in the last st, turn. 17sts

Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in the top of the same st, [miss Cl from previous row, Cl in between the next two Cl of the previous row] 4 times, miss Cl, 2tr in the last st, turn. 16sts

Row 3: Ch3, miss 2sts, Cl in between the next two Cl of the previous row, [miss next Cl, Cl in between the next two Cl of the previous row] 4 times, miss 1 st, 1tr in the top of the last st, turn. 17sts

Fasten off YARN A, attach YARN B to the top of the last st worked;

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Row 5: Repeat row 3

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Fasten off YARN B, attach YARN C to the top of the last st worked;

Row 7: Repeat row 3

Row 8: Repeat row 2

Row 9: Repeat row 3.

Fasten off YARN C and weave in all ends.

The following part of this pattern is worked in the round (rnd).

Border:

  • Turn your square upside down. Attach Yarn D to the post of the stitch at the right-hand corner, ready to work along the bottom of Row 1 from right to left.
  • Ch 3, 2tr in the same sp, ch 3, 3tr in the same sp (first corner made).
  • [Miss next Cl, Cl in next ch-2 sp] across 4 times.(3tr, ch 3, 3tr) around the post of the stitch at the right-hand corner. Turn your work anticlockwise to work along the row ends.
  • Work Cl at the top of the stitch of Row 2, around the post of the stitches of Rows 4 and 6, then at the top of the stitch of Row 7.(3tr, ch 3, 3tr) around the post of the stitch of Row 9.
  • Turn your work anticlockwise to work along the top of Row 9 from right to left.[Miss Cl, Cl between sts of Row 9] 4 times, miss Cl, then work (3tr, ch 3, 3tr) around the post of the remaining stitch of Row 9.
  • Turn your work anticlockwise to work along the row ends. Work Cl at the top of the stitch of Row 7, around the post of the stitches of Rows 6 and 4, then at the top of the stitch of Row 2. Sl st to the top of the first ch-3 to join. 72sts
A diagram showing a crochet pattern with different colored stitches: green, red, and blue, along with notations for chain (ch), treble (tr), and chain three (ch3).

This is going to be such a fun and meaningful project, and I can’t wait to see how it evolves. Whether you’re a reader, a crocheter, or both, I’d love for you to join me. Let’s crochet our love of books into something beautiful while using up those long-neglected yarns in our stashes!

Let me know in the comments if you’re planning to make a book afghan this year- or if you’ve made one before. Share your tips, tricks, or favourite books! 📚

Happy crocheting and reading, until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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P.S. I’d love to stay connected with you so please do sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, giveaways, special offers or new pattern releases are available.

Subscribe to the blog:

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.

Crochet Meets Reading: My Book Blanket Challenge for 2025 with FREE pattern

If there’s one thing that comes close to my love of crochet, it’s reading. A cosy corner, a warm blanket, a gripping book and a tasty snack is my ultimate definition of bliss! This year, I’ve decided to merge these passions by challenging myself to create a book-related afghan!

I’ve seen these incredible book blankets popping up online, and I’ve always admired the creativity behind them. Usually it’s something like each square, strip, or motif which is used to reflect the books someone’s read throughout the year. It’s such a meaningful way to blend two hobbies, and I couldn’t resist joining in. I also couldn’t resist designing something a little special for it which I’m delighted to share with you today.

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A Pinterest collage featuring the Paperback Patch Square crochet project. The collage includes close-up images of the crochet square, styled with books and yarn in complementary colours. Perfect inspiration for book lovers and crochet enthusiasts alike

Why a Book Blanket?

For me, this project is more than just a way to document my reading—it’s a tangible reflection of the moments spent diving into stories and crafting between chapters. Plus, I wanted to tackle something that felt manageable and personal. A book afghan seemed like the perfect fit.

I’ve always wanted to do something like a temperature blanket, but knew it wouldn’t be something I could realistically keep up with, however I knew I could commit to this project. The flexibility to decide how to represent each book, in my case through coloured motifs, makes this challenge feel less daunting and more exciting.

The book 'We Need to Talk About Kevin' rests beside neatly wound balls of wool in shades that match the book cover's colour palette. The vibrant yarns hint at the creativity behind a book-themed crochet blanket challenge for 2025.

Stashbusting Bonus!

Another reason I’m so excited about this challenge is that it’s the perfect opportunity for a much-needed stash busting session! My yarn stash has grown considerably (okay, maybe a little out of control – maybe you saw my ‘cupboard of doom’ reel on Instagram), and this project will help me whittle it down while creating something beautiful and meaningful. It will feel great to breathe new life into leftover yarns I’ve been holding onto for far too long.

📚 Save as a favourite on Ravelry 📚

The book 'Bridgerton: When He Was Wicked' is displayed alongside beautifully wound balls of wool in colours inspired by the book cover. The coordinated yarns reflect the creativity of a book-themed crochet blanket challenge for 2025.

My Plan

Here’s how I’ll approach the challenge:

  1. Book Selection: For every book I read, I’ll crochet two blocks. The number of blocks will depend on how many books I finish (hopefully, plenty!). I’ll be using Good Reads to track the books I do read this year so I can always catch up if I get a little behind.
  2. Physical: For my challenge I’m just going to use physical books I’ve read. This is not because I’m a book snob, I personally think it’s ‘reading’ however you consume a book, but as I listen to A LOT of audiobooks it could make my blanket HUGE and unmanageable to keep up with.
  3. Block Design: To keep things cohesive, I’ll use the same block pattern throughout the blanket. Scroll down for the free pattern I’ll be using—it’s perfect for this project if you’d like to join in!
  4. Stash Prioritisation: I’ll use yarn from my stash as much as possible, choosing colours that align (as close as possible) with the book’s cover design. I’ll be using this image picker tool to help me select the main colours from the book covers. I’m also going to be using DK (8ply / Light Worsted) for my squares – but the pattern will work with any yarn weight. I’ll be using a maximum of 4 colours for each block.
  5. Synopsis Sharing: With each block, I’ll share a little synopsis of the book I’ve read. So, if you’re looking for some new reading material, you might find inspiration here too!
  6. Coherence: I’ve decided I’m going to keep the centre of each of my blocks ‘white’ to represent the pages of the book, and use 3 other colours picked out from the front cover.
  7. Consistency: I’ll set aside a little time to stay on track! I’m determined to keep up with this challenge! But I feel that making one square after each book shouldn’t be too hard to keep up with?!
  8. Sharing: I’ll share my finished squares and the books I’ve read at the end of each month. For those that love a community crochet-along if you want to join in too then I’ll be using the hashtag #KCACOUKBookCAL2025. I can’t wait to see your squares and what you’ve been reading!

Paperback Patch Granny Square Pattern

Want to take on this challenge with me? The block I’ll be using is simple yet versatile, making it ideal for customisation. Here’s the pattern for you to try:

The pattern below is written just in UK terms but you can view a handy conversion chart here on the blog.

Skill Level: Beginner / Easy

Scroll down for the free version or pick up the ad-free PDF Pattern is available from my pattern platforms below.

Size: 11cm x 11cm (4.3in x 4.3in)

Hook: 3.5mm (US size E)

Yarn Amounts (for two blocks):

  • White Middle (2 rounds) – 3.6G
  • Rnd 2 – 2.5G
  • Rnd 3 – 3.2G
  • Rnd 4 – 4G

Total approx 14g total for two blocks

STITCH GUIDANCE

  • Chain (ch): Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook. Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. 
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • Half Treble (htr): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Treble (tr): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook

PATTERN NOTES

You will be working in between the stitches (3tr or 3htr) on as you increase on each round

The book 'The Time Keeper' is displayed alongside a finished crochet square in colours inspired by the book cover. The scene showcases a creative step in the book-themed crochet blanket challenge for 2025.

PATTERN

Make 2.

Rnd 1: With YARN A; 4 ch, sl st to join to form a ring, 6 ch (counts as first tr + 3ch here and throughout),[ 3 tr, ch 3 ] 3 times, 2 tr, sl st to 3rd ch of beg. 6 ch to join. 12 sts, 4 x ch3-sp

Rnd 2: Sl st to the nearest ch3-sp; 1 ch, 1 htr in the ch3-sp, miss next tr,[ (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in the next st, miss next tr, 1 htr in the next ch3-sp] 3 times, miss next tr,[ (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in the next st, miss next tr, sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 24 tr, 4 htr, 4 x 3 ch sps

Rnd 3: Sl st YARN B to any ch3-sp; 2 ch (counts as htr), 2 htr in the same sp, [ miss 3 tr, then in the top of the next htr from the previous round work (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr), miss 3 tr, 3 htr in the next ch3-sp ] 3 times, miss 3 tr, 3 htr in the next ch3-sp sl st to the top of the beginning htr to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 24 tr, 12 htr, 4 x 3 ch sps

Rnd 4: Sl st YARN C to any ch3-sp; 6 ch, 3tr in the same sp [ 3tr in the 2 sps between the htr/tr groups of the previous rnd, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) ] 3 times, 3tr in the 2 sps between the htr/tr groups of the previous rnd, 2 tr in the next ch3-sp, sl st to 3rd ch of beg. 6 ch to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 48 sts, 4 x 3 ch-sps

Rnd 5: Sl st YARN D to any ch3-sp; 6 ch, 3tr in the same sp [ 3tr in the 3 sps between the tr’s of the previous rnd, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) ] 3 times, 2 tr in the next ch3-sp, 2 tr in the next ch3-sp, 3tr in the 3 sps between the tr’s of the previous rnd, sl st to 3rd ch of beg. 6 ch to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends.  60 sts, 4 x 3 ch-sps

Crochet pattern chart for the Paperback Patch Granny Square by Keep Calm and Crochet On UK designed for the #KCACOUKBookCAL2025

This is going to be such a fun and meaningful project, and I can’t wait to see how it evolves. Whether you’re a reader, a crocheter, or both, I’d love for you to join me. Let’s crochet our love of books into something beautiful while using up those long-neglected yarns in our stashes!

Let me know in the comments if you’re planning to make a book afghan this year—or if you’ve made one before. Share your tips, tricks, or favourite books! 📚

Happy crocheting and reading, until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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P.S. I’d love to stay connected with you so please do sign up to blog (below) and / or my mailing list to get a reminder when new blog posts, giveaways, special offers or new pattern releases are available.

Subscribe to the blog:

Please note that some of the links in my blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links, but the price you pay is not affectedYou can read more about my affiliate links here.

I Like Crochet Magazine | Granny Square Brim Hat

Granny Square month might be over, but if you’ve not yet had your fill then you might just like a fun new design that I’ve created which is out now in the October 2020 edition of I Like Crochet magazine.

© I Like Crochet – October 2020

It’s a hat with a granny square brim! I wanted to show how versatile a little square motif could be – they’re not just for blankets!

Although you can see it modelled on a child (for extreme cuteness factors), the size I made was to fit an average woman’s size head – roughly 58cm (23”) circumference. I used a 5.5mm hook size, but you could make a smaller size by either using a smaller hook, thinner yarn or making less increases at the top of the hat to effectively remove the size of a square motif on the brim.

This design was actually designed with a beginner in mind, though I’m sure a more accomplished crocheter would enjoy it as a quick and easy project too.

It works up really quickly as it’s made in Aran / Worsted weight yarn. I used Stylecraft Special Aran (100% Acrylic); [196 meters] / 100 grams) in Parchment (Shade 1218, 1 ball), Aspen (Shade 1422, 1 ball) and Pomegranate (Shade 1083, 1 ball) and had enough of the colours left over I think to make a whole other hat (though with a colour rearrangement).

© I Like Crochet – October 2020

Then I topped off the hat with a lovely giant pom pom which was great fun to make (though of course a pumpkin works too!). And of course I know a great little shop for pom pom makers if you need one; Yarnybobs has lots of different sized pom pom makers to fluff up your creativity 😉.

❤️ SAVE GRANNY HAT ON RAVELRY ❤️

As well as my granny square brimmed hat the October edition features loads of seasonal patterns and a range of interesting articles. If you SUBSCRIBE you can get the magazine straight to your desktop or iPad as well as access to lots of other extra crochet bonus material.

© I Like Crochet – October 2020

If you hook up the Granny Square Brimmed Hat I hope you’ll share your projects with me on social media as I’d I love to see them.

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Poppin’ Spades Afghan Block

You may remember back in June that I had fun creating a new free 12″ (30cm) crocheted block called Encompass Me. I do love to create these afghan components as they have potential to be so many things! I’m now going to raise my own stakes by introducing a brand NEW free block for you.

Allow me to introduce to you the Poppin’ Spades Afghan Square! Inspired by a poker game the Poppin’ Square Afghan Square combines a fun combination of stitches to create a pleasing textured effect that I ‘wager’ any card player will love!

This is a great block to have up one’s sleeve to add as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or used as a pretty pot holder or cushion cover.

You could either follow suit and use colours similar to mine, which I felt fitted my theme, or you could shuffle your colours and see what top trumps you can come up with!

The following Poppin’ Spades Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Poppin Spades 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Pattern works best with four colors – referred to in this pattern as:

YARN A Dark Grey 45g / 68m
YARN B Yellow 15g / 23m
YARN C Light Grey 20g / 30m
YARN D White 15g / 23m

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 8dc= 2 inches (5.08cm)

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble
  • PC Popcorn Stitch

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Popcorn Stitch (PC): Work 5dc in indicated st, remove hook completely, insert hook in 1st dc (1st dc of the 5), insert hook in loop that you just removed your hook from (5th dc of the 5), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Changing Colour: When changing to a different colour, pull the new colour through the last two loops of the previous st to complete that st. Continue in the new colour, following the pattern. Change colours in this manner, whenever indicated on the pattern.

When changing to and from a colour carry the unused coloured yarn along the wrong side of the work loosely so that the work does not gather. Crochet over the unused colour as they are  carried along; this will hide the strands of yarn invisibly and eliminate long unused strands carried across the back of the work.

Pattern:

· Ch3 at the start of any rnd counts as a st.

· All ch’s are included in the st count.

Rnd 1: With A, ch5, sl st to form a ring, [ch3, 3tr/dc, ch3, sl st to ring] repeat three times. Fasten off A and weave in ends. 4 petals

Rnd 2: With B, sl st in-between any of the petals from rnd 1.  Ch6 (counts as 1tr/dc + 3ch), 1tr/dc in-between the same petal, then work [ch3, 1tr/dc, ch3, 1tr/dc, in-between the next petal] repeat three times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch6 to join. 8sts + 4 x ch-3sps

Push the petals forward from behind the ch3-sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st to the nearest ch3-sp.  Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [3tr/dc in the next ch3-sp, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the next ch3-sp], repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off B and weave in ends. 36sts / 9sts each side

Rnd 4: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 7sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch2-sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 52sts / 13sts each side

Rnd 5: Ch3, [cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr/dc of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr into the top of the central tr of the petal of rnd 1, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / C and weave in ends. 68sts / 17sts each side

Rnd 6: With D, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts] repeat twice, [cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to A, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to D, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / D and weave in ends. 84sts / 21sts each side

Rnd 7: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next st, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next st] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to A, 1 PC in the next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next 7sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to A, 1tr/dc in the next st, (2tr/dc, ch2) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off A / B and weave in ends. 100sts / 25sts each side

Rnd 8: With C, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1tr/dc in the next 3sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat twice, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to B, 1 FPdtr/FPtr in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (2tr/dc, ch2,) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / B and weave in ends. 116sts

Rnd 9: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, [cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts]  repeat twice, cc to D, PC in the next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 15sts, cc to D, PC in next st, cc to C, 1tr/dc in the next 5sts, (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in the ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off C / D and weave in ends. 132sts / 33 sts each side

Rnd 10: With A, sl st in any ch2 corner sp; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same sp, [1 tr/dc in the next 31sts, 2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ) in the ch-2 sp] repeat three times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. 148sts / 37sts each side

Rnd 11: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 34sts, [(2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), 1tr/dc in the next 35sts] repeat three times, (2tr/dc , ch2, 2tr/dc ), sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. 164sts / 41sts each side

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Poppin Spades Block I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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How to repair a broken granny square blanket

I was recently asked by the owner of the Artisan Boutique, where I sometimes do some crochet workshops, if it would be possible to mend a customers granny square blanket for her.

Image shows a knitted and crocheted blanket, the crocheted section shows a granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

The blanket had been so well loved, and passed through a variety of different children in the family, that some of the squares had unravelled or almost disintegrated entirely!

Another image of the knitted and crocheted blanket, the crocheted section shows another granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

The blanket was in a very sorry state with nine squares in total needing repair but I thought it could be fixed successfully – and I thought you guys might find it useful to know how to repair a granny square blanket too, just in case you are ever faced with a broken granny situation.

Close up shot of a hand holding a section of granny square that has become unravelled from a blanket.

Repairing a granny square does take a bit of time! Depending on the severity of hole and the size of the square you’ll need to fix you’ll firstly want to choose a time where you can concentrate and be uninterrupted, as once you are in the process of repairing you really don’t want to be having to get up and run around somewhere.

Image shows a close up of a crocheted granny square that has become unravelled in a blanket.

To give you an example of time to set aside most of the squares I had to fix were of four rounds – and it took me at least an hour to make the new piece and fix that into place (and I’ve been told I’m not a slow crocheter). You could make a fair few brand new granny squares in that time. But for those blankets steeped in family stories and history that NEED to be kept as a keepsake, this method can be a perfect lifesaver!

This method is for any blanket that has a granny square that has unravelled from the centre but that has salvageable sections on the outer edges of the square.

Image shows a knitted and crocheted blanket, a hand is holding a section that shows a granny square that has become unravelled from the rest of the blanket.

What you will need:

  • Scrap bits of yarn roughly matching the yarn weight, fibre content (e.g. acrylic) and colours of the square you are going to replace,
  • A crochet hook to match the previous gauge, I do this by eye but roughly you’d probably use a 4mm (US size G) for DK (Light Worsted) or 5mm (US size H) for Aran (Worsted). If you are not sure make up a square with a hook first and see if it will fit the gap. A bit smaller is better, then it won’t be prone to sagging when it’s washed at a later date.
  • Sharp pair of scissors,
  • Lots of stitch markers with enough space on them to hold a cluster of three stitches,
  • A large wool / tapestry needle,
  • Optional: A small crochet hook (such as a 2.75 / US size C) to help pass the loop through stitches.
  • Optional: A table. Whilst you can make repairs with your crochet on your knee you’ll find it infinitely easier to fix broken squares working on a flat surface with you sitting comfortably!

Step 1:

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It’s important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Sometimes you can save the centre of a square, you have cut away, to use again on a new square, just unravel where possible and use the yarn to remake your new granny square.

Carefully snip away the damaged square to the point where the original stitches / yarn is strong enough. It's important to not snip or untwist any of the original crochet stitches that are to be kept and worked on.

Step 2:

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Making sure that your granny square blanket is right side facing add your stitch markers to each of the stitches you have saved; to stop them twisting and unravelling whilst you make your repair.

Step 3:

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Make a new granny square to fit the space you have cut away. Snip yarn leaving a 10cm (4 inches) yarn tail. Weave in all ends EXCEPT the yarn tail have just crocheted with.

Step 4:

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Unravel the last round you have just made to your first 3ch of the round, this will be exactly the amount of yarn you need to fix your new granny square replacement into the relevant gap. Thread your needle onto the yarn tail.

Step 5:

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Line up your granny square in the gap so corners correspond and then thread the yarn tail end through the next bottom set of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Then using the small crochet hook pull through the loop of the top of the three chain through the bottom of the first cluster of granny stitches.

Step 6:

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

With your gauge sized hook; crochet in the next space as you would crochet a usual set of trebles (US double crochet) to make a granny square cluster.

Remove the stitch marker from the end of the cluster you have just passed your yarn / loop through. Double check that your square is still in the right place – it’s very easy to misalign your squares as you work!

To complete a corner, work the first granny square stitches next to the corner as usual, then thread the yarn / loop, through the bottom of TWO cluster of granny stitches (that form the corner), ch2, and then work the next granny square stitches as normal. Adjust the ch2 so that it fits through the bottom of the two clusters of granny stitches.

Step 7:

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

Continue to work your way around the square repeating the process from step 5 onwards; paying careful attention when you get to a corner.

And that’s it!

I hope that this tutorial helps your old blankets live on for many more years to come! Let me know if you find this tutorial useful, I’d love to hear the tales of blankets that have been saved!

Image shows a beautiful brightly coloured heirloom knitted and crocheted blanket

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Sherbet Star Granny Square

The lovely people over at Anchor Yarns were very kind enough recently to send me out some of their new Baby Pure Cotton yarn to play with.

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton is made from 100 % cotton, natural, combed and not mercerised (so matte not shiny) and it’s extremely soft on the hands to work with. It’s available in 24 colours which range from a soft muted powdered look or your more traditional pastel shades.

I’d say it’s totally suitable for modern fashion garments, home decor projects and amigurumi as well as quick and easy projects for baby. And it’s hypoallergenic and saliva resistant (love this) to be entirely safe for a new-born.

So I had a play with the yarn, and as it’s Granny Square Day tomorrow, it seemed only appropriate that I create a new free pattern for you all to enjoy! Allow me to introduce to you the Sherbet Star Granny Square.

Multi-colour granny squares are a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. A collection of these squares put together would look great as a cushion or blanket and you can be as adventurous as you like with your colours! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

The Sherbert Star Granny Square pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 2 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Sherbet Star Granny Square

MATERIALS

Yarn: 4ply / yarn weight #2 (Sport / Baby)

Anchor Baby Pure Cotton 4ply used in photographs.

· YARN A       Raspberry (Shade: 00430)      

· YARN B         Pastel Pink (Shade: 00431)

· YARN C         Pastel Yellow (Shade: 00106)

· YARN D         Beige (Shade: 00404)      

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: 3 mm (US size D/3)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Treble 3 together / US double crochet 3 together (tr/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Treble 4 together / US double crochet 4 together (tr/dc4tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, * pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop * repeat from * to * three times, yarn over pull through all five loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

The Pattern works best using four colours per square; three inner colours and an outside joining colour. Use the same colour as rnd 4 for rnd 6 to bring the colours of your squares together.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; ch8, sl st to form a ring; 4ch, 23dtr/tr into the ring, sl st top of the beginning 4ch to join. 24sts

Rnd 2: Ch1, 1dc/sc in the same st as the beginning ch1, * ch4, miss st, 1dc/sc in the next st * repeat from * to * until last ch4, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN A and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 3: With YARN B; Sl st to any ch4 loop, ch3, tr/dc3tog in same ch4-sp (counts as first tr/dc4tog), ch4, * tr/dc4tog in the next ch4-sp, ch4 * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN B and weave in ends. 12sts / 12 x 4ch-sp.

Rnd 4: With YARN C; Sl st to the top of any tr/dc4tog of rnd 3; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3htr/hdc in the next three ch4-sps, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 5: With YARN D; Sl st to any ch3-sp of rnd 4; [Ch3, 2tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc], * 3tr/dc in the next four spaces (between htr/hdc’s of rnd 4), [3tr/dc, ch3. 3tr/dc] in the top of the next tr/dc4tog of rnd 3 * repeat from * to * twice more, 3tr/dc in the next four spaces, sl st to the top of the first st to join. Fasten off YARN D and weave in ends. 60sts / 4 x 3ch-sp.

Rnd 6: With YARN C; Sl st to any missed st of rnd 1, * ch4, sl st to the top of the tr/dc4tog of rnd 3,  ch4, miss  next empty st of rnd 1, 1dc/sc in the next st *  repeat from * to * in each st around until end.  Fasten off YARN C and weave in ends.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Sherbet Star Granny Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram using the hashtag #SHERBERTSTARGRANNY or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Free Crochet Pattern | Encompass Me Afghan Block

When I first started out crocheting one of the things I loved to make most were crocheted blocks or squares. My love of motifs like that later helped shape my first crochet along which, you may recall, was a big multi-square afghan.

Although there have been a few blocks in between that time none of them have been the 12inch (30cm) size type blocks that I first fell in love with all those years ago. So I decided it was high time for me to design another!

Allow me to introduce to you the Encompass Me Afghan Block.

The Encompass Me 12” Afghan Block combines simple stitches with interesting post stitch construction to create a pleasing textured effect.

There are so many options for how you can arrange your colours on this square – I can’t wait to see what combinations you come up with!

And what can you do with blocks like these when you’ve finished them? Well you could add it as a component block to create a multi-square afghan or use it as a pretty pot holder or even develop it in to a cushion cover by adding a few more rounds to the edge.

The following Encompass Me Afghan Block pattern is free here on the blog but it’s also available in my Ravelry store where there is a nominal fee for a downloadable 3 page PDF pattern free of advertisements if you’d prefer.

The pattern is available in both UK and US crochet terminology on Ravelry though the pattern below is written with both terminology combined for ease.

SAVE PATTERN ON RAVELRY HERE

Encompass Me 12″ Afghan Block

MATERIALS

Yarn: 10ply / yarn weight #4 (Worsted)

Schjeepjes Stonewashed XL used in photographs.

  • 20g / 30m  Moon Stone (Shade  841)            YARN A
  • 18g / 27m Green Jade (Shade 846)                YARN B
  • 43g / 65m Yellow Jasper (Shade 849)            YARN C

Pattern will work in other hooks and yarns though finished size will be different.

Hook: US size H/8 (5 mm )

You will also need:

  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 9dc = 2.5inch / 6.35cm

Obtaining the correct gauge is not critical to this  project but if your gauge does not match then your finished item will be a different size.

Finished Size:      12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 cm)

ABBREVIATIONS:

  • st(s) stitch(es)   
  • st  sl               slip stitch    
  • ch(s) chain
  • dc/sc                 UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc            UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc             UK treble / US double crochet
  • BPtr/BPdc       UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet
  • FPtr/FPdc        UK Front Post treble / US Front Post Double Crochet
  • dtr/tr                UK double treble / US treble

STITCH GUIDANCE:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and draw through all loops.
  • UK double crochet / US single crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK half treble / US half double crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK treble / US double crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in  indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • US Double Crochet 3 together / US Double Crochet 3 together (tr3tog/dc3tog): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over insert in next st, pull up a loop, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (three loops on hook), yarn over insert in next st, yarn over pull up a loop, (five loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, (four loops on hook), yarn over pull through all four loops left on hook.
  • UK Back Post treble / US Back Post Double Crochet (BPtr/BPdc): Yarn over,   insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally behind of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Front Post treble / Front Post Double Crochet (FPtr/FPdc): Yarn over,  insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch below (your hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the st that you’re working around), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Special Increase: To make a special increase of two sts on rnd 6: work 1tr/dc in the st, then work a htr/hdc into the bottom post of the st just made.

The ch3 at the start of a rnd counts as the first UK treble / US double crochet st.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With Moon Stone ch4 and sl st to form a ring, Ch3, work 11tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of first st to join (12sts).

Rnd 2: Ch3, [1FPtr/FPdc, 1tr/dc] in each st around, finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Each FPtr/FPdc on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 2; ch3, 1tr/dc in the same st [ 1FPtr/FPdc , 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Each tr3tog/dc3tog on this rnd should be around the FPtr/FPdc of rnd 3; ch3, 2tr/dc in the next st,[tr3tog/dc3tog, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next st] in each st around. finishing with 1FPtr/FPdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (48 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next st, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 3sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (60 sts)

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 6: With Green Jade and working around the back post of each st of rnd 5. Increases on this rnd should be the special increase (see notes on page 2); ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 2tr/dc in the next [1tr/dc in 4sts, 2tr/dc ] in each st around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch3, [1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 7sts, 1dc/sc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the next st] repeat  […] twice, 1dtr/tr in the next st, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1htr/dc in the next 7sts, 1tr/dc in the next 4sts, 1dtr/tr in the next st, ch1, sl st to the top of beginning ch3 to join (76sts + 4 x 1ch-sp)

Rnd 8: Ch3, 1tr/dc in the next 2sts, [1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) in the ch1-sp 1tr/dc in the next 3sts] repeat  […] twice, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 7sts, 1htr/hdc in the next 3sts, 1tr/dc in the next 3sts, (1dtr/tr, ch1, 1dtr/tr) 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (84 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Fasten off Green Jade and weave in ends.

Rnd 9: With Moon Stone join yarn in any ch1-sp; ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work [1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, 2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in next ch-sp] repeat [..] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 21sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (100 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 10: Ch3. 1tr/dc in next st, [ (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in ch-sp, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, 1tr/dc in next 2sts} repeat [..] twice, 1tr/dc in next 2 sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next, (1tr/dc in next 3, 1FPtr/FPdc in next) repeat four times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (116 sts + 4 x ch1-sps).

Fasten off Moon Stone and weave in ends.

Rnd 11: With Yellow Jasper join yarn in any ch1-sp, ch3. (1tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) in same sp, then work 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st [ (1BPtr/BPdc in next 3sts, 1FPtr/FPdc in next st) repeat four times, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, (2tr/dc, ch1, 2tr/dc) ] repeat from […] twice, 1BPtr/BPdc in next 4sts, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (132 sts + 4 x ch1-sps)

Rnd 12: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 32sts st, [ (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 33sts, (1tr/dc, ch2, 1tr/dc) in same sp, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (140 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Rnd 13: Ch3. 1tr/dc in the next 33sts st, [ (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts ] repeat from […] twice more, 1tr/dc in the next 35sts (2tr/dc, ch2, 2tr/dc) in same sp, 1tr/dc in the next st, sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 to join (156 sts + 4 x ch2-sps)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

And that’s it!

If you hook up the Encompass Me Afghan Square I hope you’ll tag @kcaco.uk on Instagram or share your projects in my Facebook group as I love to see your finished work! 

Until next time folks! Happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Allcrochetpatterns.net | Granny Square Design Contest

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The granny square is one of the most iconic designs in crochet and I adore that it can be interpreted in unlimited ways!  If you’ve seen my groovyghan and various other designs then you’ll already know I’m a big fan of all things ‘granny square’ and love creating new fun designs.  So when I saw that Allcrochetpatterns.net was holding a granny square design contest I knew I had to give it a go to design something new. 

I’m really loving Scheepjes Catona Yarn at the moment and am amassing quite a colour selection so I picked out some lovely bright rainbow colours and after a bit of yarn play came up with the Floral Illusion Granny Square. 

Floral-Illusion-1+Text

And the story behind the name…well the flower part seemed to develop quite organically as I started playing with the yarn – so I just went with it. The illusion part came as I noticed when I was photographing the square that the centre of the block had a kind of 3-D hologram that was a really cool effect.

Floral-Illusion2+Text.jpg

And now the voting to the competition is OPEN! If you happen to like my little designs could you please spare me a few moments I hope you might vote for the Floral Illusions block. Your vote counts, and that’s why there’s a special Voters Prize! By voting you will be entered in the raffle to win 100 Epic yarn balls by Yarn and Colors! 

HOW TO VOTE:

  • Go to the voting page on Allcrochetpatterns.net
  • Click the heart-button of TEN of your granny squares
  • Enter your name and email address in the pop-up screen to submit your vote.
  • Please note: multiple votings by one person will be removed.

Voting will take place from April 16 till April 23 and the three designs with the highest amount of votes will be announced the winners of this contest and a selection of participants will be contacted to contribute to a book project, gathering 100 granny square designs.

There are seriously so many amazing designs from inventive designers and I’ve voted for my favourites – good luck to all designers taking part!

Until next time folks! Happy hooking, keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

 

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those.  I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that! 

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

02+text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part16.png

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT04

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

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It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end! 

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can! 

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg:  Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.  

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design.   I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

01+text.jpg

Written Pattern:

skill2

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

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Chart:

Chart+Text.jpg

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part15.png

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.