Out of this World MCAL | Made by YOU 💚

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Well all good things come to an end eventually and this is true of the Out of This World mini mystery crochet-along. However if you missed the the CAL and want to catch up with the pattern you can find all the links on the 2017 CAL page.

But now, as promised, I want to share with you a little photo gallery of images collected from the KCACO-UK Facebook group and page and Instagram of wonderful aliens made by YOU! Do you see yours?

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Oh my word I have adored seeing all your little aliens from the #ootwcal!! And I love the variety of colours that you all chose.  It’s so nice seeing a design that was in my head come to life! Thanks again to everyone that joined in the CAL with me. 💕

Until next time! Keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World MCAL | Joining and Tah-dah moment!

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Right all that’s left then is to put all these bits that we’ve got together! Have you guessed what it is yet?

Pieces

If you missed the announcement about the CAL and want to check out the general CAL info and material details you can find it all here and you can catch up with Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here and Part 4 here.  You still have time to make up your little amigurumi though, if you want to be featured in the finished project galleries you have until Saturday 30 September to submit a finished photo!

Making Up:

  • Add each part of section E to section A over rnds 8-12 and using a yarn needle and the tail ends attach securely. Insert a safety eye into the middle of each circle. Stuff section A firmly.

MU-1+Text

  • Pin both parts of section G to the top of section A roughly 3.5cm / 1.5 inches apart; then using a yarn needle and the tail ends attach securely.
  • Using black embroidery thread embroider on a black mouth over rnds 14-16

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  • Insert the circle of section D into the loop of section D and the secure to middle of section B

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  • Sew the whole of that joined section (B & D) to the centre of section F
  • Sew section H to each side of section F on rnd 25

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  • Attach section C to either side of the bottom of section F

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  • Finally attach section A to the top of section F – and you are finished!

Tah-Dah!

And you’ve made a little alien buddy!

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I hope you had as much fun making him as I had designing him. I’m super excited to see your finished projects! The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites so I can see them: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram! And don’t forget if you want to be featured in the finished project galleries you have until Saturday 30 September to submit a finished photo!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World MCAL | Part 4

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Oooo we are up to the last parts!!! If you missed the announcement about the CAL and want to check out the general CAL info and material details you can find it all here and you can catch up with Part 1 here, Part 2 here and Part 3 here.

Yarn: 

I have used three different colours in this pattern but you can use any colour you wish though I do suggest that sections in YARN B are best made in white. Yarn suggested colours for each particular piece will be referred in this pattern as:

  • YARN A – Any colour you wish
  • YARN B e.g. White
  • YARN C – Any colour you wish

For this design I used double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 however the pattern will also work in worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook such as a 4mm (US size G) – your finished project will just be bigger!

Abbreviations: 

  • rnd = rounds
  • beg. = beginning
  • rem. = remaining
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc2tog/sc2tog= UK double crochet two stitches together / US single crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Pattern Notes:

Many sections of this CAL are also worked without joining in continuous rounds by placing a stitch marker in either the the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet 2 sts together (dc2tog/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern – Part 4:

SECTION G (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With YARN C; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 8dc/sc into ring or 8dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 8sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 16sts

Rnd 3-5: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 6: (dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 8sts

Begin to stuff; continuing to stuff as you go making sure they are stuffed firmly

Rnd 7: (1 dc/sc in next 2sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 6sts

Rnd 8-11: 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off but leave yarn tail

Section-G

SECTION H (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 6dc/sc into ring or 6dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3-7: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 8: (1 dc/sc, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 8sts

Stuff rnds 1-8 only

Rnd 9-16: 1dc/sc to last st

Fasten off but leave yarn tail

Section-H

And that’s part 4 done! Ready for the make up instructions tomorrow and then the big reveal….not long to wait!!

The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites so I can see them: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram!

Until tomorrow; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World MCAL | Part 3

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Wow we are on Part 3 already! If you missed the announcement about the CAL and want to check out the general CAL info and material details you can find it all here and you can catch up with Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

Yarn: 

I have used three different colours in this pattern but you can use any colour you wish though I do suggest that sections in YARN B are best made in white. Yarn suggested colours for each particular piece will be referred in this pattern as:

  • YARN A – Any colour you wish
  • YARN B e.g. White
  • YARN C – Any colour you wish

For this design I used double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 however the pattern will also work in worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook such as a 4mm (US size G) – your finished project will just be bigger!

Abbreviations: 

  • rnd = rounds
  • beg. = beginning
  • rem. = remaining
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc2tog/sc2tog= UK double crochet two stitches together / US single crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Pattern Notes:

Many sections of this CAL are also worked without joining in continuous rounds by placing a stitch marker in either the the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet 2 sts together (dc2tog/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern – Part 3:

SECTION E (Make 3):

Rnd 1: With YARN B; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 8dc/sc into ring or 8dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 8sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 16sts

Fasten off with a sl sl the the next st but leave yarn tail

Section-E

SECTION F:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 6dc/sc into ring or 6dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 4: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 5: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 6: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 7: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 42sts

Rnd 8: (1dc/sc in next 6sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 48sts

Rnd 9-13: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 14: (1dc/sc in next 6sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 42sts

Rnd 15: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 16: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 17-18: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 19: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 20-24: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 25: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 24sts

Begin to stuff; and continue stuffing as you go

Rnd 26: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 27: (1dc/sc, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 28: (dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 6sts

Fasten off and using yarn tail sew up the last 6sts; weave in any ends remaining

Section-F

And that’s part 3 done! The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites so I can see them: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram!

Until tomorrow; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World MCAL | Part 2

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So are you ready for Part 2!! If you missed the announcement about the CAL and want to check out the general CAL info and material details you can find it all here and you can catch up with Part 1 here.

Yarn: 

I have used three different colours in this pattern but you can use any colour you wish though I do suggest that sections in YARN B are best made in white. Yarn suggested colours for each particular piece will be referred in this pattern as:

  • YARN A – Any colour you wish
  • YARN B e.g. White
  • YARN C – Any colour you wish

For this design I used double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 however the pattern will also work in worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook such as a 4mm (US size G) – your finished project will just be bigger!

Abbreviations: 

  • rnd = rounds
  • beg. = beginning
  • rem. = remaining
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc2tog/sc2tog= UK double crochet two stitches together / US single crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Pattern Notes:

Many sections of this CAL are also worked without joining in continuous rounds by placing a stitch marker in either the the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet 2 sts together (dc2tog/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern – Part 2:

SECTION C (Make 2):

Rnd 1: With YARN C; ch7, 2dc/sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc/sc in next 4sts, 3dc/sc in the next st, turn and work down your beginning ch, 1dc/sc in the next 5sts. 14sts

Rnd 2: 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the last st. 20sts

Rnd 3:  1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 2sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc in the next 2sts. 28sts

Rnd 4: BLO, 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 5: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 6: dc2tog/sc2tog in the next 4sts, 1dc/sc in the next 18sts, dc2tog/sc2tog in the last st. 23sts

Rnd 7:  dc2tog/sc2tog in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 15sts, dc2tog/sc2tog in the last st. 19sts

Rnd 8:  dc2tog/sc2tog in the next 3sts, 1dc/sc in the next 10sts, dc2tog/sc2tog in the rem. 2sts. 14sts

Rnd 9:  dc2tog/sc2tog in the next 2sts, 1dc/sc in the next 8sts, dc2tog/sc2tog in the rem. st. 11sts

Rnd 10:  dc2tog/sc2tog, sl st to the next st to fasten off. 10sts

Stuff firmly with toy filler

Section-C

SECTION D:

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 8dc/sc into ring or 8dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 8sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 16sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Fasten off but leave yarn tail

With YARN C; ch20, sl st to form a ring, fasten off but leave yarn tail

Section-D

And that’s part 2 done! The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites so I can see them: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram!

Until tomorrow; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World MCAL | Part 1

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Ooo I’m so excited to get started on my first mini mystery amigurumi crochet-along, if you missed the announcement about the CAL and want to check out the general CAL info and material details you can find it all here. Although I’ve done CAL’s before (2015 & 2016) this is my first time trying to design an amigurumi for us to crochet together – shall we get started 😊

Yarn: 

I have used three different colours in this pattern but you can use any colour you wish though I do suggest that sections in YARN B are best made in white. Yarn suggested colours for each particular piece will be referred in this pattern as:

  • YARN A – Any colour you wish
  • YARN B e.g. White
  • YARN C – Any colour you wish

For this design I used double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 however the pattern will also work in worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook such as a 4mm (US size G) – your finished project will just be bigger!

Abbreviations: 

  • rnd = rounds
  • beg. = beginning
  • rem. = remaining
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc= UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • dc2tog/sc2tog= UK double crochet two stitches together / US single crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – Back Loop Only

Pattern Notes:

Many sections of this CAL are also worked without joining in continuous rounds by placing a stitch marker in either the the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

Stitch Guidance:

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • Double Crochet/Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet 2 sts together (dc2tog/sc2tog): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three loops on hook.
  • Back Loop Only (BLO): Insert your hook underneath the back loop of the stitch only and make the stitch as indicated.

Pattern – Part 1:

SECTION A

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 6dc/sc into ring or 6dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 4: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 5: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 6: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 7: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 42sts

Rnd 8-16: 1dc/sc to last st

Rnd 17: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 18: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 19: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 20: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, dc2tog/sc2tog) to last st. 18sts

Fasten off with a sl st st to the next st  but leave a long yarn tail

Section-A

SECTION B

Rnd 1: With YARN B; either make a magic ring or ch2 to start then work 6dc/sc into ring or 6dc/sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 6sts

Rnd 2: (2dc/sc) to last st. 12sts

Rnd 3: (1dc/sc, 2dc/sc) to last st. 18sts

Rnd 4: (1dc/sc in next 2sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 24sts

Rnd 5: (1dc/sc in next 3sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 30sts

Rnd 6: (1dc/sc in next 4sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 36sts

Rnd 7: (1dc/sc in next 5sts, 2dc/sc) to last st. 42sts

Loosely sl st around the outer edge of your circle, Fasten off but leave long yarn tail

Section-B

And that’s the first part done! The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your finished projects on your favourite social media sites so I can see them: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram!

Until tomorrow; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Out of this World | Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along

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Who’s ready for a Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along?

Following a poll,  in the KCACO-UK Community Facebook group about a mini Crochet-Along (CAL) for 2017, it was decided that we should do an amigurumi!!! This is the first time I’ve done a CAL with something other than a blanket and my very first mini mystery CAL (MMCAL) so I’m quite excited about it! And if this isn’t for you don’t worry I’m going to try and work in another mini crochet-along, a little later this year, for the other poll favourite choice of something Christmassy!

This is a great CAL for anyone who’s never tried an amigurumi as we will be taking it slowly – you could even make several different versions during the mystery!

Details of the Mystery…

  • We will begin on Monday 18th September 2017 
  • There is no charge to join the CAL; anyone can join in as long as they have some yarn and a hook.
  • The mystery will run for 5 days; For those that like a deadline I will be adding new details about the mystery each day from the 18th Sept at 7 pm-ish (GMT time) – see below for full schedule. For those that want to hook when they have the time then that’s fine too; no pressure to this CAL it’s all about having fun!

Materials…

  • For this design I used double knit/8 ply/yarn weight #3 and a 3.5mm (US size D/3 or E/4 will be fine). The pattern will also work in worsted /aran/ yarn weight #4 with a larger hook such as a 4mm (US size G) – your finished project will just be bigger!
  • You will need about 60g / 177m / 193 yds of yarn TOTAL; this design could be a great stashbuster for yarn you have lying around; I used three different colours but use as many colours as you want! 
  • You will also need some toy stuffing, 3 x 9mm or 12mm black or green safety eyes, scissors and a yarn needle.

The Basics…

We will be using simple stitches in this crochet-along but you will need to know how to work:

  • Chain (ch)
  • Slip Stitch (Sl St)
  • UK double crochet (dc) / US single crochet (sc)
  • UK double crochet two together (dc2tog) / US single crochet two together (sc2tog)

Many sections of this CAL are also worked without joining in continuous rounds  (rnds) by placing a stitch marker in either the the top of the first st to mark start of rnd.

The Keep Calm Crochet Community…

  • The hashtag for this CAL is #ootwCAL. Make sure you link me your wip’s via your favourite social media sites: Ravelry, Facebook page or Facebook group, Twitter,  Pinterest and Instagram!
  • The ravelry link to add to your queue / favourites is here.
  • Once the final clue is released I would love you to submit a picture so I can feature you on Facebook, the blog and in my Newsletter.
  • You will have until Saturday 30 September to submit a finished photo to used in my galleries.

Schedule…

It’s all very exciting isn’t it!! I can’t wait to see your projects – and hear your guesses on what we are making! 

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 17

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WOW, we’ve made it!! Can you believe we are now on the border?! 

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Groovyghan-Border-Hebrew-final (1)

01+Text

Part 17: The border

Before you can start your border all previous sections of the groovyghan must be joined together (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details).  The border is worked directly onto the edges of your joined pieces, working all the way around all edges, to finish off your groovyghan.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part17.png

Pattern:

skill2

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK double crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • P = picot
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • Picot (P): Not all picot stitches are created the same, for this border; create three chain stitches from the point in your row where you want to add the picot stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through the top of the previous tr/dc, this is one picot stitch.
Picot-Collage

Picot Stitch Diagram

Pattern Guidance:

Rnd 1: To set the blanket up for the border you need to be working in a multiple of 3 sts. For my first round I evened up my sides by joining YARN A to the corner sp and working 1 tr/dc in the back loop of each st around.

If you have too many stitches this is the perfect time to decrease/increase where needed. In the corners I worked [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc].

Pattern:

Rnd 2: With YARN B, join to any corner ch 3 sp with a dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc in the same sp, ch 3 * miss 3 sts, work 1 dc/sc in-between the sts of the previous rnd, ch 3 * repeat from * to * in each st around working [dc/sc, ch 3, dc/sc] in each corner), sl st to top of first dc/sc to join, finish off and weave in ends.

Rnd 3: Join YARN A in any corner ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp and in each ch 3 sp along make 3 tr/dc, *in the next corner ch 3 sp work  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 4: Repeat rnd 2

Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2, but do not finish off, sl st to the nearest corner; continue to work the final edging in the same colour.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work [1 tr/dc,  P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc] in same sp,* in next ch 3 sp work 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc and in each ch 3 sp along * in the next corner ch 3 sp work  [2 tr/dc,  P, 1 tr/dc, ch 3, 2 tr/dc, P, 1 tr/dc]  * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to top of first ch 3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.

02

And that’s it!

Congratulations your Groovyghan is finished! 

Look out for the big reveal of my groovyghan on 7 September! Don’t forget to link me photos of your finished groovyghans I’d love to see them!

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those.  I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that! 

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

02+text.jpg

Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part16.png

Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT04

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT05.jpg

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

TUT06.jpg

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 15

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: groovyghan-part7-hebrew

Group-Banner

It’s time for part 15 of our groovyghan! Not long left to go now till the end! 

I have to confess it’s been more difficult to get round to doing edits to these patterns with the new baby than I anticipated so I need to apologise for missing off the photo tutorial and chart this week – I’ll try and add them on as soon as I can! 

Edited 4 Aug: Chart and Photo Tutorial now available! Sorry for the wait folks x

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg:  Give-Granny-a-Diamond-Hebrew-fianl (1)

Part 15: Granny likes Diamonds 5 inch block:

This next block is inspired by the 1971 film Diamonds Are Forever which is the seventh spy film in the James Bond series and features Sean Connery who in my mind is the best ‘Bond’.  

Everyone loves diamonds right not just super villains…and as a big fan of granny square I love to see what different designs I can incorporate within a basic granny design.   I’m really pleased with how it came out and think it will make a fun addition to our groovyghan – or fabulous using the pattern to make a stand alone cushion or blanket.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

skill2

Give Granny a Diamond 5 inch Block (Make 4):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • dc/sc = UK single crochet / US single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

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Chart:

Chart+Text.jpg

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 15 finished block size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 10 inches / 25.4 x 25.4 cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can join part 15 directly to the other parts of the CAL (please refer to the CAL schematic below details)

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part15.png

Photo Tutorial:

Note: Two colours in this pattern; referred to as YARN A and B

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the next st; this will be the middle tr/dc of your first set of 3 tr/dc sts (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT01.jpg

Rnd 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, miss the next st work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp * miss the next st, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st,  miss the next st, work 1 dc/sc in the ch 3 sp, * repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (28 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT02.jpg

Rnd 3:  Attach YARN B to any dc/sc from rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1 , [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the top of the next dc/sc from rnd 2, * repeat from * to * twice more, ch 1, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 3 sp,  ch 1,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join (22 sts + 8 x 1 ch sps, 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT03.jpg

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * miss 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts, [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next st, * repeat from * to * twice more, miss the next 2 sts, 3 tr/dc in the next st, [miss the ch 1, 1 dc/sc and ch 1],  miss the next 2 sts,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, sl st to the next ch 3 sp (48 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT04.jpg

Rnd 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same st, * 3 tr/dc in the next 3  sps, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc],  into the ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * twice more,  sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (60 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

TUT05.jpg

Finishing: Make 4 blocks in total and slip stitch them together to form a block of 4 x 4 measuring 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm.

And that’s it! Part 15 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 16 to be released on 10 August 2016.